HOMEBREW Digest #3900 Thu 28 March 2002

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  RE; diacetyl rest after bottling lager ("Bill Frazier")
  Fist Partial Mash (Steve Tighe)
  Another Conical Options? (John Maylone)
  How Do You Sanitize Your Bottles? (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com>
  Munton's marris otter pale ale malt ("Peter Fantasia")
  suggestions on how to kill yeast ("Peter Fantasia")
  Lead in brass and copper pipng ("Braam Greyling")
  Re: Barley Wine Ale (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Any suggestions on how to kill yeast? ("Larry Bristol")
  belgian beers ("Fred Scheer")
  Baltic Porter (Glenn Raudins)
  RE CCF ("Steven Parfitt")
  RIMS ("Steven Parfitt")
  Temperature-controlled Conical (mohrstrom)
  16th Annual Big & Huge Homebrew Competition (Mark Garthwaite)
  hops poles (DHinrichs)
  Upper Mississippi Mash-Out Homebrew Competition (allan.boyce)
  Hop Trellis (mohrstrom)
  RE: Filtering Brew Water ("J.Savage")
  RE: unusual techniques (Brian Lundeen)
  Kaiser Doppel Malz clone ("Chuck Dougherty")
  Odd brewing practices... (Pat Babcock)
  Re: How to kill yeast (Gene Collins)
  RE: Maris Otter malt (I/T) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com>
  muntons grain ("Czerpak, Pete")
  Conicals (stpats)

* Visit the George Fix Memorial Guest Book * http://hbd.org/forums/index.html * * Maltose Falcons 2002 Mayfaire Competition * Entries accepted 4/1/02 - 4/11/02 * http://www.maltosefalcons.com for details * * MCAB-IV - April 12-13, 2002 - Cleveland Ohio * See http://www.hbd.org/mcab for more info * * HOPS BOPS XIX Entry Deadline 4/17/2002 * Details: http://www.netaxs.com/~shady/hops/ * * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 13:59:12 -0600 From: "Bill Frazier" <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net> Subject: RE; diacetyl rest after bottling lager Darrell Leavitt asks..."I know that a diacetyl rest at the end of fermentation is generally called for with a lager/pilsner..but I wonder...could this rest be performed after bottling?" Hi Darrell-This reminds me of the old joke. A lady comes to the complaint window at a business. She has a product that has obviously failed. She asks...Has this been tested. The clerk says...Sure it was tested, it failed miserably, but it was tested. The answer to your question is...sure, you can do a diacetyl rest after bottling. However, you would be better served by doing a diacetyl rest in a carboy so the diacetyl can escape thru the air lock. After bottling, everything will remain in the beer. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:59:02 -0800 (PST) From: Steve Tighe <steve_tighe at yahoo.com> Subject: Fist Partial Mash Hello all, Just discovered this forum a couple months ago, and have been avidly re-reading a whole bunch of stuff from the last couple years. Y'all have a little something here for everyone! I've been brewing for over a year (extract/specialty), but am just starting to get more serious about it. I'm ready to take my first baby steps toward all-grain. I don't have a large enough kettle for 6 gallons of pre-boil wort or a wort chiller, so I figure that my first step will be to put together a lauter tun and start with partial mash. I expect to go get a Phil's Phalse Bottom and put it in my old 6.5 gallon bottling bucket that I don't use anymore. This should be big enough to make a reasonable-gravity 5-gallon batch right? At least 1060 or so? I don't want to spend the money, time, or deal with the complexity to go w/the converted Gott cooler approach for now. I'll just mash in a pot and transfer to the lauter tun. I've decided to start with an American Pale Ale, since it's nice and basic and should give me some feedback on how I'm doing by not covering up my mistakes with a lot of dark malt flavors. Guided by Ray Daniels' Designing Great Beers, I came up with the following recipe (5 gal): 3.25 lb light DME 3.25 lb pale ale malt (2 row) .75 lb 40L crystal Cascade whole hops (assume for now 5.75%) 1.25 oz 60 min 1 oz 20 min 1 oz at end of boil .75 oz dry hop in secondary (probably in a mesh bag) Wyeast 1056 I'll mash at, oh I don't know, probably 150F or so (Daniels says 149 to 154). The DME I buy seems to have a fair amount of unfermentables, so I figure I'll go with a less-dextrinous leaning mash. According to Promash, assuming 70% efficiency and 3.5 gal at the start of the boil and using the Rager formula, that should give me about 1050 gravity and 39 IBU, with 8 SRM color. This is within the style guidelines and has a BU/GU of .79, about the middle of what Daniels suggests. One question I have is on the flavor/aroma/dry hops. I basically picked those amounts at random, and made it all add up to 4 oz because that's the lot size my local shop sells hops in. I don't *have* to use the whole package; will this amount blow me away? I love hops, but you can, too, have too much!! I'd like a nice, full hoppy flavor and aroma without puckering! And of course, any other sage words about my plans (techniques, mash temp, etc.) would be appreciated. Oh, and I noticed back in January or so a bunch of people commenting that a device like Phil's Sparge Arm was thoroughly unnecessary. Could someone elaborate on what you do to prevent channelling? I've heard of putting a coffe-can lid on the grain surface and placing the hose from the HLT right on that; is that a recommended approach? Well, sorry for the long-winded first post. I look forward to hearing from the collective. Steve Tighe Berkeley CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 00:05:03 -0800 From: John Maylone <mrkoala at mac.com> Subject: Another Conical Options? Charles R. Stewart, <Charles at TheStewarts.com> says "I LOVE George Daher's conical setup! I was looking at the stainless tank from Toledo Metal Spinning, but really like the idea of being able to see inside (the yeast level, etc.). I'm currently using a polyethylene tank (albeit with a flat bottom) and and have been very happy with it. The wheels are a nice touch, too. And what a bargain! Just go to http://www.usplastic.com and search for 8551 (NAANYASC - No affiliation, and not yet a satisified customer). While searching for 8551, I found a potential 15 gallon conical fermenter at: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&catego ry%5Fname=Polyethylene+Tanks&product%5Fid=15%2C+30+And+70+Gallon+Chem%2DMix+ Tanks The unit has 60 degree cone angle and the $86.70 cost includes molded in 2 gallon increment markers and the stand. They also sell fittings, etc. The tough part with this unit would be sticking a smaller dump valve on it; the bottom comes with a 2" FPT............... John Maylone Tollhouse, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 07:37:25 -0500 From: "Barrett, Bob (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com> Subject: How Do You Sanitize Your Bottles? I was talking with a fellow homebrewer the other day and was telling him about the new way I clean and sanitize bottles before I bottle. He said I should send it out to the HBD and see what kind of response I get. Sounded like a good idea so here it is. I like using Anchor Brewing Co. bottles. They seem to work the best with my 2 handed bottle capper. I save the ones I have emptied and sometimes get more from the local beer store. In Michigan we have the recycle law so I just take them some long necks and trade them for the Anchor bottles. It works out nice. Doesn't cost anything more than I have already spent. I soak the bottles over night in a solution of hot water and a PBW type product. The next day the labels are floating in the water. No hassle trying to get them off. I use a jet spray bottle blaster and rinse the bottles several times. Then I visually inspect them for any type of foreign matter that is left inside and place them neck down in a six pack holder until I am ready to sanitize them. This lets the bottles drip dry and keeps them clean, even for several months. When I am ready to sanitize the bottles, I make little aluminum foil squares, approximately 2 inches X 2 inches. I place the foil squares over the opening of the bottle and mold them down to the side of the bottle with my hand. This keeps anything from getting into the bottle after it is sanitized. This should provide enough protection to keep the bottles sanitized for several days. Maybe even weeks. Now the sanitizing. Place the bottles you want to sanitize in the oven. I heat them to 350F for two hours. Turn the oven off and let them cool in the oven. When they have cooled I place them back in the six pack holders with the neck up. Again, the foil will keep out the bad guys. When I am ready to bottle I just remove the foil, fill and cap. To me this is much easier than using any type of liquid sanitizer. Comments????? Have a better idea????? My $0.02. Cheers! We make the beer we drink!!! Bob Barrett Ann Arbor, MI (2.8, 103.6) Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 07:37:21 -0500 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: Munton's marris otter pale ale malt Doug, Go all American. Why not try Breiss Pale Ale Malt? It is slightly darker than their 2-row brewers malt. I use American malts whenever possible. Never found any problems apparent. Cheers, Pete Fantasia Brew Jersey Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 07:42:37 -0500 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: suggestions on how to kill yeast Ross, Aggressive fining including bentonite , isinglass or polyclar coupled with chilling and racking could do it. One note though, if you add honey without boiling you risk adding wild yeaster beasters. Good Luck, Pete Fantasia NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:26:45 +0200 From: "Braam Greyling" <braam.greyling at azoteq.com> Subject: Lead in brass and copper pipng Hi everybody I am aquiring more information regarding the removal of lead in brass and my copper pipes. I found this on a webpage: ************ Brass is OK There are some purists out there who will insist that brass fittings and ball valves are a big no-no in brewing. I say hog-wash. The only downside that exists is the presence of small (and I mean really small) traces of lead on the brass surface. A quick 5 minute soak in a mixture of 2 parts vinegar and 1 part hydrogen peroxide will remove all traces of surface lead. The brass fittings and ball valves are much cheaper and more readily available than stainless steel ********************* I cant find an explanation why this should work and I am not sure if it would work. So then I sent e-mail to a chemical engineer that I know and he replied: ++++++++++++ Howdy Braam, Ok - long story. I actually consulted some of my old chemistry books. Firstly - don't mess with lead. This is what was proven to cause Beethoven's deafness and ill health. It also causes mood swings and stuffs up your digestive system. Hydrogen peroxide is bad stuff. Dissolved in water (that is how you would buy it - it is very unstable by itself) it forms a very strong acid. Now I don't understand why one would want to mix a strong acid with a weak acid (acetic acid with H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide)). The strong acid might actually see the weak acid as a base and chow the OH at the end (I think acetic acid is CH3COOH if I can remember right...) Now about 'leaching' the lead out of the copper. I had a look at the redox tables and it looks to me if the copper is going to get chowed by the acid before the lead does. This is bad. Should I be wrong and the lead does get chowed - my question would be what is your copper pipe going to look like? It will probably be pitted. This 'leaching' process would only be able to remove the surface lead. Not the lead that is trapped beyond the surface layer. Now should the surface get scratched per chance it means that once again that new surface will have lead in/on it and that eventually you will go deaf from drinking your beer. Why it works for the guy with the brass - I don't know. Maybe the tin in the brass helps the copper hang around a bit longer. My next question is: How does he know that all the lead is gone? This is a looong term thing - you won't taste it or see the affects in the short term. I think the best would be to maybe buy SS piping. Fine - if you want the fittings to be copper/brass - no problem, because they will be small compared to the piping. Perhaps my chem eng is just a bit rusty - do you know any metallurgists? Cheers, Greg +++++++++ Another person also sent the following: >>>>>>>>>>> Hi all, Brass is an alloy (mixture of metals) that consists of between: 50 - 90% Copper, 20 - 40% Zinc, 0 - 6% Tin, 0 - 2% Lead and 0 - 1% iron. Lead is not concentrated at the surface but distributed evenly throughout brass, by the nature of alloys, you cannot selectively dissolve one metal (lead) from an alloy. Any kind of surface removal with acids, etc, just etches away the surface. The amount of dissolved lead depends on how much total brass you dissolve into your beer, I am sure this is a minute amount. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Now, my question is. Why would a hydrogen peroxide and vinegar solution removes the lead from the surface ? I really really really hopes someone can explain this. All info will be posted to the group Best regards Braam Greyling Braam Greyling Snr. Design Engineer Azoteq(Pty)Ltd Tel +27 21 8630033 Fax +27 21 8631512 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:50:41 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Barley Wine Ale Mike Mullins writes from just up the road in Lapeer, MI: >I have been fermenting a Barley Wine Ale for about three and a half months >and I think it's about played out. I want to bottle this in 7 oz. bottles. I >have never so thoroughly fermented a beer before and am worried that there is >no live yeast left for carbonation. What would be the best way to ensure I >get some carbonation in this beer? While there's a good chance you would have enough viable yeast left for carbonation, the best way is to play it safe with fresh yeast. You could simply use a fresh pack/tube of the same yeast without a starter, or you could use this fresh yeast to brew a normal strength ale and harvest some for bottling. I think that if the yeast is a top cropper, that would be the best yeast to harvest. You could also kraeusen with the new ale (adding a portion of it to the barley wine when it is at high kraeusen), but that would reduce the effective OG of your barley wine. >Although I have the ability to keg beer, I don't have the equipment >to bottle from my keg. If you mean counter-pressure bottling, that may not be wise from a longevity standpoint, although I would defer on this to someone who has done it successfully. When Ann Arbor Brewers Guild brewed 50 gallons of Classic American Pilsner for the 2000 NHC, we C-P bottled it. We tasted some last October that had been kept refrigerated (16 months) and it was badly oxidized and virtually undrinkable. It tasted great at the conference, BTW. Not sure at which point in the brewing or bottling process the O2 entered, but it was a problem in a way that bottle conditioned CAPs were not. As Steve Alexander most recently pointed out, live yeast is a good protector. Sierra Nevada has a clever way of combining the best of bottle conditioning and counter-pressure bottling. They filter their beer, then bottle it with a little yeast (and perhaps a very little fermentable material, not sure). This way they have the protection of the yeast, but so little that fussy consumers aren't put off by the yeast deposit on the bottom. There is so little that it's unnoticeable. Jeff - -- ***Please note my new address*** Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:04:21 -0600 From: "Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> Subject: Re: Any suggestions on how to kill yeast? On Wed, 27 Mar 2002 00:23:44 -0500, Ross Cohn <artnculture at yahoo.com> wrote: >I'm new to this list and finally came up with a >question to post: I have a 6 Gallon Demijohn filled >with Elderberry Mead that i would like to bottle >soonand I have a problem: > My problem is, I cannot find a way to kill the yeast! >I don't want to put any additives into the mix (it's >all natural, including lemon juice to boost the acid >level when we pitched), so I am looking for a natural >way to kill it off, so there are no "bombs" when I add >more honey. Ross, I faced the same problem when I wanted to leave some residual sweetness in my apple cider. The yeasties would eat all the sugar it could find, leaving the cider so dry it was practically dusty. The problem with answering the question is knowing your definition of "all natural". Nuclear fusion is an all natural process to me, so I do not know if either of the two methods below qualify, but for what they are worth: (1) Pasteurization: Immediately after bottling, place the bottles in a hot bath. Bring the bottled mead to 150F for 10-15 minutes, and that should do the trick. (2) Stabilization: Add potassium sorbate, 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. This is what winies use to leave some residual unfermented sugar. Your LHBS probably sells wine making supplies, also. This is the technique I prefer for my cider (see http://www.doubleluck.com/things/brewery/recipes/DoubleLuckCider.html). Note that if you kill the yeast (no matter what technique you use), you will not be able to do bottle conditioning as there is no yeast remaining to generate carbon dioxide. Assuming you are not planning to make your mead "sparkling", this should not be a problem for you. Larry Bristol Bellville, TX AR=[1093.6,223.2] http://www.doubleluck.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:10:27 -0600 From: "Fred Scheer" <fhopheads at msn.com> Subject: belgian beers Ira: I have cultured the "sediment" of Bottles Fantome, Duvel, and some other styles with the help of a local Scientist. After making several batches of cloning the appropriate Belgian beer style, I had some of the local Music City Brewers tasting the beers. We all concluded that the taste was very close to the Fantome and Duvel. At the moment I'm "lagering" 5 different styles of Belgian type beers, all brewed with the yeast cultured from imported bottles. Fred Scheer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:22:29 -0500 From: Glenn Raudins <glenn at raudins.com> Subject: Baltic Porter Greg asks about Baltic Porter. A great example is Aldaris Porter, from Riga, Latvia, that can now be found in places in the U.S. If memory serves me correctly, as I toured to brewery in Riga, it is at least a starting gravity of 1.085 possibly more. So shoot big, but not imperial stout big. It is fermented with lager yeast, but I believe you can do equally well with an Ale yeast. With regards to color, it appears black brown, but you can actually see through it (when held up to the light) and it has a somewhat ruby hue to it too. When selecting a grain bill, think towards the sweeter tastes than the roasted tastes. Tasting notes from Michael Jackson: "cherry-to-black, syrupy, herbal, rooty, cinnamon-ish " I think he is pretty close to the mark, I don't taste a cinnamon to it, but the herbal syrupy is right one. Hope this helps, it is a beer worth sampling a few of. Glenn Raudins http://www.raudins.com/BrewBooks/ - Reprints of Historical Brewing books. (And soon Historical Distilling Books.) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:29:19 -0500 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: RE CCF Just finished my first batch in a Cylindro-Conical Fermenter. (1) I taped one of the sitck on thermostrips on the side of the cone, and have a heat lamp on the opposite side. The basement is only 62F right now, and I check it twice a day and adjust the heat lamp to maintain 74F during fermentation. I brewed with WY1214 and wanted the esters. This worked out quite well for crude temperature control. (2) Dumped the sploog after one day out the bottom port. Nice capibility. (3) Dumped the yeast out the bottom port last night before racking beer. Nice also. Put a quart yeast cake in the fridge for my next session. (4) Dumped beer from CCF into two cornys via the side port. first gallon in first corny was cloudy with yeast, after that it ran pretty clear. Lifted top cover and feed CO2 in while racking to prevent exposure to O2. Probably not a big deal since the top surface of the liquid was pretty still. (5) After racking beer, I carried the CCF outside and hosed it out. Wiped the sploog ring out with a sponge, rinsed again, carried it back inside and dumed a gallon of SanStar in it. Sponged it really well with the SanStar, and put the top back on. When I get ready to brew again, I'll lift the lid, wipe it all down and drain the SanStar, and be ready to fill it again. Cleanup was a snap. And, I don't worry about dropping it like I would a Carboy. Nice toy. Since I got it made for free (Friend runs a sheetmetal shop), I think it is especially nice. Would I pay $500 for one. Hell no! Would I make one from a TMS (Toledo Metal Spinning) grain hopper for a total investment of less than $200. Hmmmm, possibly. Yea, another would be nice. One for ale, one for lager. This one holds over 15 gallons, and a 11.5 gallon batch has about the right amount of room for Kreussen, etc. Make em large. It will be interesting to see if I'm still using it regularly in a year or so. Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:48:45 -0500 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: RIMS Last night I finally installed my RIMS heating chamber in my rig. I decided to put it at the output of the pump. The downside of this configuration is that everything that goes through the pump, goes through the RIMS Chamber. The upside is It required bending one piece of tubing (with a flair fitting), and adding one more with two flair fittings. Very easy installation. I have not wired the chamber yet. I'll do that affter running some circulation tests with water. I've got a WATLOW PID controller and power TRIAC to cotrol the heater with (Thanks John) so I should'nt have any trouble with that. Woke up this morning and while laying in bed started thinking (bad thing first off in the morning). When wort is circulated through a RIMS heating chamber, people are concerned with scorching the wort. I used a screw in hot water heating element, and can swap them out to select different heat densities. I plan on using a 4500W 230VAC unit at 115VAC for 1125W, with a 3500W 230VAC elelment as an option of 875W at 115VAC. I can always put a bolcking diode series with the element to cut that in half, so I have options for 1125, 875, 562.5, and 437.5 Watts, so Scorched wort shouldn't be a problem. So, what's bugging me? Enzimes. Deactivation of the enzimes occurs much lower than scorching the wort. What keeps the RIMS heater from Deactivating the enzimes in the liquid? Short exposure to the hight temperature in the heater, since the wort is pumped back in the tun and mixes with cooler wort? Secondly, how to get to target temp? My temp feedback sensor is in the top of the RIMS chamber. If I set the PID for my target temp, I'll never get there, or will take forever. If the PID is trying to hold 153, and my mash is at 135, the PID will turn on to heat wort returning to the tun to 153. As the inlet temp drops, the PID will cut back on the heater drive and asemtotically approach the target temp, but my delta T will drop. How do I get there in a timely manner, unless I set my PID above the target temp, and shut it off when I reach target? Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 10:03:54 -0500 From: mohrstrom at humphrey-products.com Subject: Temperature-controlled Conical > But as Brian Lundeen, <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca>, notes, > "brewers who are serious about improving their > beers will spend their money on temperature control > before buying a conical." Hmmm ... why not have both? Consider this: Why not take TWO of the same-sized spun stainless conicals, and nest them one inside the other? Form a path for recirculating glycol by routing a closed cell foam gasket on the outside of the inner cone before assembly, and clamp them together to compress the gasket. Seal around the top with the same foam gasket, and add bulkhead IN and OUT ports on the outer cone. An el Cheapo recirc pump driving glycol from a chilled tank inside a dorm fridge, controlled by a Ranco (or even an old household thermostat). A good scrounger ought to be able to pull it off for about two bills. Note: If anyone puts this into commercial production, they owe me a "test" unit for my endorsement! See you at MCAB (unless the kid makes it home from Afghanistan by then)! Mark in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:40:22 -0600 From: Mark Garthwaite <greattaste at hbd.org> Subject: 16th Annual Big & Huge Homebrew Competition The Madison Homebrewers & Tasters Guild is proud to sponsor the 16th Annual Big & Huge Homebrew Competition! The Big & Huge is a competion for high gravity beers. Entries for Big Ale and Big Lager categories range from an OG of 1.050 to 1.060. Huge Ale and Huge Lager categories are for OG's greater than 1.060. Ciders, meads, and sakes above an OG of 1.050 are accepted in a single category. When: Saturday May 4, 2002 at 11:00 am Where: JT Whitney's Pub & Brewery in Madison, WI Entry Deadline is Wednesday April 24th. The Best of Show beer will be awarded the coveted WOOLY MAMMOTH plaque. New this year is a HAIRLESS MOUSE award for the Best of the Cider, Mead, and Sake Category. Awards and prizes will be presented to the top three finishers in each category. More details can be found at: http://www.mhtg.org/contests/b_h_2002.html Please contact me if you have questions or are interested in judging/stewarding. The Big & Huge is a BJCP sanctioned event. Cheers, Mark Garthwaite, Big & Huge Czar Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:41:07 -0600 From: DHinrichs at Quannon.com Subject: hops poles "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: RE: Yeast Starter/bifenthrin/hops poles >BTW - does anyone have any clever (cheap) ideas in tall hops poles for my >garden ? Since I have a fence yard (chain link) I purchased 3/4" electrical conduit 10' long. I then weaved them into the fencing to about 18" from the ground (4' fence). I then topped them with a cross bar of conduit bent to sit on top of the vertical poles in a big "U" total about 13' high. I run twine down to the hill (I only have one plant). The whole setup waves in the wind but does not seem to be a problem. cost less then $20. Note: you can buy pre-bent corner peices at most home centers. I also have a large bird house on a pole that is built out of 2" pipe. The base is concrete with two poles extending up acting as supports for the main center pole which is 20' high. The center pole pivots on a threaded rod running across the two supports so it can be lowered. The center pole is held in place by two pieces of angle iron bolted across the bottom of the three poles. This design is often used for flag poles as well. cost about $50. ******************************************************* * Dave Hinrichs E-Mail: dhinrichs at quannon.com * * Quannon CAD Systems, Inc. Voice: (952) 935-3367 * * 6101 Baker Road, Suite 204 FAX: (952) 935-0409 * * Minnetonka, MN 55345 * * http://www.quannon.com/ * ******************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 10:23:04 -0600 From: allan.boyce at usbank.com Subject: Upper Mississippi Mash-Out Homebrew Competition The Minnesota Home Brewer's Association and the St.Paul Homebrewers are pleased to announce a NEW Homebrew Contest! THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI MASH-OUT! Mpls / St.Paul, Minnesota Entries Accepted: April 12-21, 2002 Judging: April 27-28, 2002 Awards Ceremony: May 5, 2002 1:30pm - Summit Brewery, St.Paul Entry Fee: $7 First Entry, $5 each for subsequent entries by the same brewer Categories: All BJCP categories, including Cider and Mead For more information, go to: http://www.mnbrewers.com/mashout/ NOTE: If you can help us judge, write to Al Boyce at mash-out at nbrewer.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:25:41 -0500 From: mohrstrom at humphrey-products.com Subject: Hop Trellis Steve asks: > does anyone have any clever (cheap) ideas in > tall hops poles for my garden ? I built my hop trellis from galvanized water pipe for ~$50. It's about 18ft tall, and consists of a pair of 1-3/4in pipe (IIRC) supports in parallel, set in concrete, on either side of a 1-3/4in pipe upright. Nested inside this (as deep as I could shove it past the Chinese welds) is a length of 1-1/4(?) pipe, with a Tee threaded to the top. THROUGH the Tee, is a length of 3/4in pipe, located with conduit hanger clamps. Along the 3/4 pipe are more of these same hangers, from which I string the twine which the hops will climb on. Buy pulling one of the through bolts at the base, I can swing the trellis down in the spring to string the twine, and again at harvest time for easy pickin'. That is, assuming the at #$%ing Japanese beetles haven't eaten everything. So far, it has survived 70+mph winds, including a devastating (very nearly a tornado) storm, that sheared off thousands of trees, and tipped over a nearby pivot irrigation system. Haven't see a lightning strike on it yet, but I keep watching ... Here goes with the ASCII: _____ *____*_____*_____*______*____*_____*____* | | \ | | \ | | HOP TWINE ATTACHES | | AT "*"s \ __ \ \__ | |\ | | | | BOLT __| |__ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | BOLT _| |_| |_| |__ | | | | | | | | | | | | BOLT _| |_| |_| |__ | | | | | | | | | | - ---------------------------------------- GROUND LEVEL ####| | ##### | |#### ####| | ##### | |#### ####| | ##### | |#### QUICKRETE ####| | ##### | |#### / ####| | ##### | |#### ####| | ##### | |#### Mark in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:37:31 -0800 From: "J.Savage" <jonathansavage at earthlink.net> Subject: RE: Filtering Brew Water > Any thoughts on the possibility that this device will extract some >valuable nutrients from the mash water? The water comes through the = filter >clear and as far as I can tell, drinkable. I drank a bit and it tasted >like, well, water. Could the filtering be adding harmful agents to the >water? C'mon, where are the chemists around here?=20 Good question - I reckon that it would probably work OK. The only way to = really *know* what the filter set-up is (and is not) doing would be to = analyze the water post filtration. We decided to use "whole house" = filters for our brewing water. Total cost was maybe $35.- inclusive 2 = filter elements and the fittings to allow us to attach it to the garden = hose. A comparison between our water report and the filters published = specs give me a fairly good idea of what my baseline filtered water is. = We then add adjuncts accordingly. Bests, Jon Long Beach, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 10:46:02 -0600 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: unusual techniques Ray Daniels writes: > Do you masticate your grains before > brewing!? > > If you have done any of this---or anything off-beat or > unusual in terms of brewing techniques---I want to hear from > you! Drop me a note at ray at aob.org. First off, Ray, there is nothing unusual about masticating. 90% of brewers do it, and the other 10% are lying. Now, I do have a somewhat unusual technique, although I won't be writing Ray for two reasons: 1. I'm still mad at him for not making DGB twice the size it is (Belgium?) 2. I am in no way a 'spurmenter. I do things in a very unscientific, uncontrolled, open to misinterpretation way (FWIW, I still believe cold fusion was discovered, it was just suppressed by the energy cartel). So any proof that what I am doing is in anyway having a beneficial effect will have to come from someone else. Anyway, about a year ago, Steve Alexander wrote me about adding sulfites to the mash. I have long since forgotten the details of what Steve wrote me, and possibly I never really grasped them in the first place. However, what came out of it was a decision to add potassium metabisulfite to my mash water. I add about 3 grams to a typical mash water volume for my 8 gallon batch sizes. I vaguely recall calculating this amount out based on what Steve wrote me, whether I did it correctly is another matter. Anyway, the intent is to use the sulfur dioxide generated to bind with oxygen in the mash water so that it can't do nasty things which might lead to... Oh no, you won't get me to say the H-acronym. It seems to me that if *** does exist, the mash is a very inviting environment. Even if you pre-boil the water, you will still entrain some air when mixing in the grains unless you really want to go to extremes like cold dough-in, underletting, things of that sort. Being lazy, I'll turn to chemicals wherever possible. I used this technique on two beers now approaching a year of age. A Koelsch which turned out very nicely, and a Bock which turned out... Let's just say, most people congratulated me on a pleasant brown ale. Typical storage is at basement temps, which can fluctuate between 58-68F, not exactly ideal. Both beers have held up reasonably well, and certainly don't seem stale. Not trusting my own taste buds, I sent a Koelsch off to Drew Avis, who is BJCP certified and humours me by writing nice, Kleinesque reviews of my beers. Drew seemed to agree with my assessment, although he did point out a slight musty or yeasty character. Perhaps that was just a result of being stirred up in transport. What does this prove? Simply that I'm adding sulfites to my mash water, nothing more. The flapping of a butterfly's wings in Japan may have had as much effect as the sulfites. And as Phil pointed out when he wasn't regaling us with his dreams of Graham prancing in slow motion through the monsoons with a pint of Tropical Flower Wit (there, try and get that image out of your head), perhaps longevity is not really that big an issue with most brewers. If you drink up your brews in a few months, mash abuse probably doesn't make much difference. I would certainly encourage other brewers to try this, and add their observations on any effects it might be having on their beers, positive, negative or neutral. Cheers Brian Lundeen Brewing at [314,829] aka Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:00:58 -0600 From: "Chuck Dougherty" <jdougherty at wlj.com> Subject: Kaiser Doppel Malz clone Greetings all-- While traveling in Austria recently, SWMBO and I had the opportunity to try Kaiser Doppel Malz. (Despite the use of "doppel" in the name, it is only 4.7% abv, so I guess it would best be classified as a dunkel.) This beer is tremendously sweet, downright candy-like. I frankly don't care for it, but SWMBO thinks this is the best beer she has ever tasted, and I am therefore curious if anyone has ever tried to develop a clone. I can of course think of several ways of making a sweeter dunkel, but I would like to hear from anyone who has targeted this particular beer or knows anything about how it is actually brewed. Interestingly, this beer is quite different from the Kaiser "dark beer" (inexplicably labeled in English) that I found in Hungary. That beer is more balanced, and to my taste at least, much more drinkable. Chuck Dougherty Little Rock, Arkansas Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:09:01 -0500 (EST) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Odd brewing practices... Greetings, Beerligns! Take me to your lager... Ray Daniels writes: > Do you masticate your grains before > brewing!? > > If you have done any of this---or anything off-beat or > unusual in terms of brewing techniques---I want to hear from > you! Drop me a note at ray at aob.org. I wear a tutu and do interpretive dance while playing a lyre during each step of the mash* (just ask Jim Suchy. He's seen it.). Does this count? Hey - they say plants like music. The grist came from plants, right? In trial after trial, I've found that this improves my efficiency, and adds a subtly lunatic, malty sunset of effervescence to the aroma of the beer body's garnet flavored mouthfeel (Ha! Top THAT, Klein!). Really: it all makes sense, in a scary, twisted sort of way... - -- - God bless America! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock [18, 92.1] Rennerian "I have escaped the gravity of that particular flypaper. I have shed my bonds and have risen like the mythical phoenix. This has not been done to simply crash and burn upon the same desolate shores from which the journey commenced. I have tasted of freedom and have found that it... ...tastes like chicken." - Me, responding to an invitation to return to my old job. * OK, OK. So I was really wrestling loose hoses on my counterflow chiller while jumping up and down in pain and frustration as scalding water ran down my leg. It was sort of like interpretive dance. And the chiller could be mistaken for a lyre. By a blind guy. A blind guy with no sense of what shapes are. And, yeah: I don't truly mean to imply that my cursing constitutes dulcimer tones. Alright, alright. And the tutu was my jacket around my waste. But is was a fairly accurate desciption of what I do... -p (trying to remember what the mash smells like...) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:55:46 -0600 From: Gene Collins <GCollins at cranecarrier.com> Subject: Re: How to kill yeast The perferred method in wine circles is to add potassium sorbate that acts as a fermentation inhibitor. This is the same ingredient used commercially in apple and other types of juice to prevent the product from fermenting in the bottle from airborne yeast strains. To be completely organic in this approach, pastuerization seem to be your only other choice, but this can damage some of the flavor components. A longhold method used as a milk pasteurizing technique, would be to heat the mead to 145 degrees for around 30 minutes and allow to cool slowly to room temperature. The alternative method is called the High Temperature Short Time (HTST) method which involves heating to 161 degrees and holding the temperature for 15 seconds. This technique would probably affect the mead's flavor the most. Most likely, you would want to do either of these in a "double boiler" set-up where you don't head the mead directly, but six gallons will be hard to manage. Good luck. Gene Collins Broken Arrow, OK Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:59:05 -0500 From: "Jones, Steve (I/T) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com> Subject: RE: Maris Otter malt Doug, I've never used Munton's maris otter. I actually made my original Hunter's Moon batch from Beeston's maris otter. My second batch (VERY close to the first) was made with Thomas Fawcett maris otter malt. It is an excellent malt for all my English ales. I got it from from North Country Malt supply in upstate NY, who is the importer. A few club members get together twice a year and order full bags from them. If you order 9 bags or more you can get a price break on shipping by truck - about $9 to $9.50 per bag. They will only sell direct to persons who are not within 100 miles (or so) of a retailer of their products, and it looks like you fit that criteria since Fairfax is the closest location of a retailer to you. They are very good to deal with, and the stuff usually arrives within 2-3 days here in East Tennessee. They also have Hugh Baird, Weissheimer, & Malteries Franco-Belges malts (great pilsner, munichs, vienna, caramunichs), so if you guys are interested in 350 lbs of maris otter, you should be able to get up a 9 bag order when adding in these two. Just a note on the recipe: I am absolutely convinced that the 6 hour boil is the primary reason for the intense flavors in this brew. If there is any way you can do it, boil for 6 hours - you'll be glad you did. Steve Jones Johnson City, TN [421.8 mi, 168.5 deg] Apparent Rennerian http://users.chartertn.net/franklinbrew Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:12:03 -0500 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: muntons grain Doug asked about Muntons grain, and specifically Maris Otter variety. I use normal Muntons pale as a standard base grain. Seems to work fine with no major complaints. I go through maybe 3 or 4 sacks a year. Never a problem with poor extraction or anything. Color seems okay also. It may produce a slight chill haze as normal at cold serving temps. I have ordered a sack of Maris Otter from Muntons also. No complaints either. NOthing really super magical about it though. It wasn't grossly different tasting in beer form than normal Muntons although I did not brew same recipes with either. I think if you want the cream of the crop, you want to get floor malted Maris Otter which is not the Muntons stuff. Although I have never used floor malted stuff either. Good luck. Pete Czerpak albany, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:33:49 -0600 From: stpats <stpats at bga.com> Subject: Conicals I'm a little confused by the use of the racking port for bottling, or even kegging. In fact, I'm not even sure why its called a "racking" port. Commercial versions of these steep conical fermenters are called "unitanks" because they can be used for both primary fermentation and aging. Yeast and trub can be drawn off the bottom thus eliminating the need for racking. It seems to me that using the bottom valve for bottling would be simple---just draw off any sediment first. I think the primary reason for the "racking" port is actually as a sample port---to monitor the progress of the fermentation. Commercial tanks can be pressurized, so the beer can be naturally carbonated by simply closing up the tank when the gravity reaches some point. Some tanks have a port for force carbonation as well. I'm really not sure in commercial applications where the beer is transferred to a Grundy for example, if the racking port is used or if they simply dump the sediment and use the bottom valve. I guess my point is that the racking port does not appear to be at all necessary for bottling or kegging. But perhaps I'm overlooking something. Do those who bottle from the racking port have some reason for not using the bottom valve? For not drawing off the sediment before bottling? And if you first draw off all the sediment, then you eliminate the problem of stirring up sediment when you add priming sugar. The reason I'm curious about this is that we're finishing up our new conicals and the whole issue of offering a simple sample port (no rotating arm) like those on large wine storage tanks vs one with a rotating arm is an issue. Its trivial to offer either or both but I want to be sure I'm not selling a bill of goods. Lynne - -- St. Patrick's of Texas Brewers Supply 512-989-9727 www.stpats.com Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 03/28/02, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96