HOMEBREW Digest #3905 Wed 03 April 2002

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  Gump Report 2 ("Rob Moline")
  Any news about Movingbrews? ("Gary Smith")
  Re: Conical chilling ("Kent Fletcher")
  Conical  chilling idea ("Braam Greyling")
  Re: Where to buy beer online (Matt Walker)
  Heat generation during fermentation (Lonzo McLaughlin)
  Jethros CCF (Jim Busch)
  Online beer ("Mann, Drew")
  ancient thermometers ("Dr. Pivo")
  scratchbuilt glycol coolers. ("Peter L. Berghold")
  Re: RIMS temperature control (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Berliner DMS (Marc Sedam)
  Rye Ale questions (John Misrahi)
  Update on Schneider Weisse Yeast (Andrew Nix)
  cleaning the outside of a immersion chiller (Al Klein)
  Hazelnut flavoring in Longshot Brown Ale ("Neil Kushnir")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 23:37:06 -0600 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: Gump Report 2 Gump Report 2 Lead from Brass... Years ago, there was an 'exploration' by the FDA into whether the leaching of lead from brass faucets, and other fittings in use serving beer was significant enough to require regulation. One can imagine the impact this would have had on the beverage dispensing market, as the numbers of brass faucets in use in this country is enormous. The BATF came a callin' one day to gather samples for 'another agency,' which the agent declined to name, but I already knew what was up, and detailed all the brass fittings in the beer pathway, from cold liquor/hot liquor/airstone fittings, sample cocks, faucets, etc. We seemed to have a little bit of brass spread throughout the place. Samples were taken of incoming H2O, and from several beers, at the faucets, placed into bottles that looked like hip flasks, and sealed with evidence tape. Later lab reports from FDA, requested by myself, revealed that in all samples lead was significantly below what was expected, and didn't approach the range specified as above potable water standards. in fact, one sample was below that of the incoming feed water! Explanations ranged from low lead levels in incoming H2O on the day of the brew of that beer, to possible yeast absorption, and lab error.... We certainly didn't ask... Nonetheless the FDA proposal was dead in it's tracks. Cheers! Gump "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" New Address- jethrogump at mchsi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 00:13:14 -0600 From: "Gary Smith" <mandolinist at interlync.com> Subject: Any news about Movingbrews? Hi there, I need to get a couple of items for my boilkettle (false bottom, swagelock, ss tube & valve) I would like the same parts I got for the mash tun that I got from Bill at MovingBrews. Also I need some of his quick disconnects to match ones I have at present. >From his website it looks like he is still not there. Anyone know if he's coming back? Cheers, Gary Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 22:48:49 -0800 From: "Kent Fletcher" <kfletcher at socal.rr.com> Subject: Re: Conical chilling Lonzo, Let me see if I understand. The purpose of the loop is to chill your carboys? Is the plan to wrap coils around the carboys, circulating glycol through the coils and then through the freezer section of your firidge? - ----- Original Message ----- > From: Lonzo McLaughlin <lonkelm at yahoo.com> > I'm considering using my beer fridge as the cooling > machine. It seems a simple glycol loop into the > freezer with a small pump and temperature controller > should work well. . . .I was thinking of getting a small automobile > radiator and placing it in the freezer as the way to > extract heat from the refrigerator. One could use > glycol inside the radiator. A couple of things. You want to extract heat from the carboys not the refrigerator. I don't think the idea of the "small radiator" will work unless you also include aa fan to move air across the coil. A simple coil of aluminum tubing laid flat in a water filled pan would be simpler and probably more effective. There are any number of small inexpensive pumps which could serve the glyco recirc function, the limiting factor would be the total head, that is the total resistance imposed by gravity and friction loads, you'll want to have as little elevation difference as possible between the two coils. But wouldn't it be easier, cheaper, and more effective to pick up a used chest freezer of appropriate size, change aout the t-stat, and put your carboys in it? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 09:21:08 +0200 From: "Braam Greyling" <braam.greyling at azoteq.com> Subject: Conical chilling idea Hi Lonzo and others, An idea I have been toying with the last couple of months is the following: Take a stainless steel coil and put it INSIDE the conical fermenter. Then pump with an aquarium pump, water through the coil from a reservoir in the fridge. You control the pump with a thermostat to keep the fermenting beer or wort at the correct temp. Maybe also a good idea is to put some isolation material around the conical to ensure the ambient temperature do not influence the fermenting beer or wort. Just a thought. Will probably try it out sometime. Has anybody tried this before ? Regards Braam Greyling Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 23:40:22 -0800 From: Matt Walker <matt at suckerfish.net> Subject: Re: Where to buy beer online > Where can I buy beer online? Belmont Station has a killer selection. Unfortunately, I think they only sell by the case. Not so great for putting together a sampler... http://www.horsebrass.com/belmont_station/bst_beer.html Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 05:55:42 -0800 (PST) From: Lonzo McLaughlin <lonkelm at yahoo.com> Subject: Heat generation during fermentation Is there a formula for BTUs given off during fermentation? I would like to know about how many BTUs are generated during a 10 gallon batch. Or more specifically, how many BTUs/hr will I need to remove during the peak of the fermentation? I'm sure the math is out there somewhere. Lonzo Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, Apr 2 2002 9:52:40 GMT-0500 From: Jim Busch <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: Jethros CCF Mr Moline has done a wonderful job of describing the exact CCF I had made at a brewery tank supplier in Maine. Only addition I would suggest is two ports on the top of the CCF, one for filling and CIP at 1" size, the other 1/2" for blowoff/CO2 pressure gauge attachment. Dont forget that once you build this sucker, you need a nice centrifugal pump with triclovers, about $800 new but sometimes to be found much cheaper during ch 11 proceedings. You can also fit a pressure relief valve onto the CIP/filling port, but thats another few hundred. Prost! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 09:41:05 -0600 From: "Mann, Drew" <dmann at kmg.com> Subject: Online beer Tray Writes: >Where can I buy beer online? I would like to sample different types and >styles. I have a very limited selection locally. I want to sample >different styles, types to help me in my home brewing. I have used Vintage Cellar (http://www.vintagecellar.com) out of Blacksburg VA (No affiliation etc.etc.) Their service was great and the beer was shipped with care. According to their web site they can not ship to KY, TN, GA, NC, MD, IN and FL. As I recall you also have to fax them a copy of your ID, which they keep on file for all future orders. Drew Houston TX Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 17:52:10 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: ancient thermometers Jeff Greenly writes: > , I remember reading recently that the ancient > brewmaster would watch the surface of the liquor as it was heated and > determine the best time for infusion based on its appearance. This technique > is apparently still used by some of the more archaic brewers in Europe. > Who you callin' "archaic"? Actually there is a lot to be said for learning the "look, smell and taste" of your brew. e,g. getting some good gelatinizing going happens around the upper 60's (C) and you can see when the wort goes from just "milky" looking, to distinctly a darker (clear) liquid with a bunch of white junk in it.... maybe even a better way of judging proper mash temps that a single thermometer in one place. heat source in another, and a bad stir. another example, as Phil Yates previously noted, when trying to measure hydrometer readings off the sparge, you get different numbers depending on your feed rates (and can fool yourself).... but just nibble a few grains from the top at intervals, and when they start tasting like "air" there's nothing of value left to be had in my opinion.... and you get surprisingly consistant run off readings once you've "trained" yourself. In short.... if you have to make an extremely consistant commercial product, you'd better be prepared to measure a LOT of things, but if doing it for your own pleasure, measurement is just a way to teach you to cook good food by "pinches, dabs, and handfulls" by training your senses. But back to the original question.... at least locally , the historical pre -thermometer -thermometer of choice was the elbow.... try dipping it in sometime abd you'll get the idea.... and learn what "thick skinned" means. Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 11:06:52 -0500 From: "Peter L. Berghold" <peter at berghold.net> Subject: scratchbuilt glycol coolers. - -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 [*] [*] 1. I was thinking of getting a small automobile [*] radiator and placing it in the freezer as the way to [*] extract heat from the refrigerator. One could use [*] glycol inside the radiator. [*] Actually a heater core from an automobile would work. To heat the inside of a car a relatively small unit is used to heat the car, I don't see why it wouldn't work in reverse... - -- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Peter L. Berghold Peter at Berghold.Net -or- Peter.Berghold at med.nyu.edu Manager Unix Engineering,MT Sinai NYU (212) 263-6932 For PGP public key send email to: pgp-key at berghold.net - -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.0.6 (GNU/Linux) Comment: For info see http://www.gnupg.org iD8DBQE8qdcdUM9/01RIhaARAs4AAJ9m44QFUQtjNwFpm3sqNdQDv44hRQCgoZnO YzuQSVlZhB5SI5jt6sOiWmU= =ee+/ - -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 12:53:52 -0500 (EST) From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com> Subject: Re: RIMS temperature control Nathan - Excellent description of how temperature control works. I will be setting up a PID for the first time soon and I am sure you will have saved me a lot of trouble. I have been using a Morris style home built controller for about 9 years and am finally upgrading to a PID due to doubling the capacity of my system and needing to control two SSRs with one controller. The Morris controller sort of combines a temp controller and SSR by using a triac, so the amount of amps it controls cannot be increased beyond the capacity of the triac itself. Also, I laid out the circuit board to only handle 15 amps on the existing traces, so even if I went out and got a larger triac that would fit the footprint on the PC board, it may just vaporize the traces the first time it turned on. I just have two comments to make. First, making this wonderful treatise an MSWord document limits your audience. Not everyone out there use MS crap products to browse the web. There are numerous people who interact with the web on Unix systems and either cannot or do not want to have to use any MS products. When you are done writing this and are "ready to publish", please take the time to output it in PLAIN ASCII TEXT and put that up on your web site. Your potential audience will increase. Next, since you are using MSWord to write it, you should take advantage of the built in spell checker. There are currently many spelling errors. There are also several words that will pass the spell checker, but are not the correct word to use in that context (i.e. "to" used where you probably meant "too"). I would be happy to send you a marked up version of your document back to you with corrections. I also found one sentence that just ends before it actually says what you may have intended. Thank you very much for taking the time to write this up. This is very excellent information stated in a very straightforward way that anyone will be able to understand. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck Email: hollen at woodsprite.com Home Page: http://www.woodsprite.com Brewing Page: http://hbd.org/hollen Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 13:10:50 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: Berliner DMS I don't recall having a problem with DMS in my no-boil Berliner weiss. Could be because I sparged with boiling water which may have helped volatilize the precursors. Or not. It just worked. But I did not have any luck whatsoever with the acid rests. I chose instead to do a normal mash, chill and drop right into the fermenter (no boil), pitch the yeast, then pitch the lactobacillus "bugs" a day later. That seemed to give the best combination of sourness and alcohol. That keg JUST got good as the last beer was drawn off. A very pleasant nutty/toasty flavor had just started to develop...this is why man created 10 gallon cornys. - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 15:12:26 -0800 From: John Misrahi <Lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: Rye Ale questions Hi all I am planning to make a Rye ale and I need some advice. First of all, should I use malted or flaked rye? I can get either one at my LHBS. Second, how much of either should i use in a partial mash? Thirdly, can anyone provide me with a recipe? I'm thinking to do something along the lines of an English amber ale or an ESB. I was thinking about using pale malt, crystal, rye (flaked or malted), light malt extract for the difference in fermentables, along with fuggles and east kent goldings hops, and something like Whitelabs or Wyeast British ale or London ale yeast. I appreciate all your input thank you John Misrahi Montreal, Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 15:34:38 -0500 From: Andrew Nix <anix at vt.edu> Subject: Update on Schneider Weisse Yeast Hello HBDers!!! Wanted to post a quick update since several folks expressed interest. The 3 gallon batch of weizen I pitched yeast stepped up from a bottle of Schneider Weisse underwent a taste test last night....killer beer. Very clovey with lots of fruity esters. I brewed another batch and racked 5 gallons of it onto the yeast pancake and it is cranking away right now with similar aromas from the CO2 blowing off, so I'll have more of this gem to drink soon. Drewmeister Andrew Nix Department of Mechanical Engineering Virginia Tech anix at vt.edu http://www.vt.edu:10021/A/anix Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 20:44:40 -0500 From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net> Subject: cleaning the outside of a immersion chiller On Mon, 1 Apr 2002 00:10:07 -0500, in rec.crafts.brewing you wrote: >Ralph Link asked: >I have managed to obtain a 50 ft. coil of 3/4" copper tube. I plan to >rewind it around the circumference of a 100lbs. propane tank to make the >chiller. This may be a bigger problem than I think. My next concern is, >what would be an effective and easy way to clean the exterior of the >chiller, since the copper coil has been left laying around in the open for >a long period of time. Boiling in wort is one way. Boiling in vinegar is another. I'd opt for the vinegar. (30% white cider vinegar, 70% water) - --- [Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] Al - rukbat at optonline dot net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 21:39:45 -0500 From: "Neil Kushnir" <neilk27 at hotmail.com> Subject: Hazelnut flavoring in Longshot Brown Ale Hi Everybody! I am about to brew a Hazelnut Brown Ale that was one of the winning recipes in the Longshot World Homebrew contest sponsored by the Boston Beer Co. (Sam Adams) several years ago. The recipe simply calls for "hazelnut flavoring" added at bottling, but I don't know how much to put in for a five gallon batch or what the best kind of hazelnut flavoring is to use. Has anyone had previous experience with this recipe or any other using hazelnut flavoring? Any recommendations? I am familiar with the process of adding a small premeasured amount of flavoring bit by bit until the taste is where I want it, then extrapolating the small amount to a five gallon batch. I'm just lazy and trying to avoid all that hassle on bottling day. The winning recipe was credited to Doug and Vicki Parker of Leesburg, Florida. Does anyone in that area have any idea if these people are still homebrewing? Maybe I can contact them directly if they're still involved. Private answers are fine! Neil Kushnir in Montreal (where I would usually spell "flavoring" with a "u"= flavouring.) Return to table of contents
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