HOMEBREW Digest #4000 Sat 27 July 2002

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  World's Fastest Fermentation? ("John Misrahi")
  Re: How can I tell if my nose is working? ("John Bonney")
  RE: Bill M's "nose calibration test" (Paul Shick)
  Re: Beer Road Trip (Portland OR) ("Joel Plutchak")
  re: sanitizer (Paul Kensler)
  Re: More Pretzel stuff (Rick)
  re: Yield/Color Table (Rama Roberts)
  re: AHA Club Only Competitions ("Gregory Lorton")
  Portland Brewpubs ("Parker Dutro")
  defective nose? ("Parker Dutro")
  re: What's in your Fridge? Beer snacks (Bill Tobler)
  RE:  Lager/beer fridge (Bill Tobler)
  ball valve keg woes ("dave holt")
  Re: Cold vs. Warm commercial beer (David Radwin)
  pacific nw (Jeff & Ellen)
  Re: Scotmalt anyone? (Jeff Renner)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 08:17:03 -0700 From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: World's Fastest Fermentation? Hi All, I just had something seemingly strange happen. Yesterday morning/early afternoon i brewed a 5 gallon all grain pale sort of ale. 3kg 2-row 500 g. light crystal 500 g. victory 250 g. corn meal 25g. horizon hops (60 min) 25 g. hallertauer plugs (30 min) 25 g. hallertauer plus (5 min) my o.g. was 1.036 i pitched 2 packets of dry danstar windsor yeast. I cleaned up and went out, and when i came home it was fermenting nicely, big krausen, frothing, the side of the fermenter felt *quite* warm too. Anyways, this morning, the krausen has almost completely subsided, it doesnt seem to be fizzing anymore, and , the kicker, the gravity is 1.010!!! What the? I've made low gravity beers before but never had one ferment out so fast!!! I wasn't going to use a secondary - just bottle it after a week or so in primary to have something to drink soon.. But now there is no more co2 being produced and no protective krausen. What do i do? Should I bottle it this quickly and let the aging happen in bottles? Or go borrow a carboy tomorrow and put it in that? help! John M. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 08:28:56 -0400 From: "John Bonney" <john at ruthsx.com> Subject: Re: How can I tell if my nose is working? Bill, Try breathing in VERY, VERY, VERY slowly when you're smelling something. I too thought I had a schnoz problem for the longest time. Turns out I was just sniffing to fast. Once I slowed down the inhale rate, I immediately noticed a difference. I'm enjoying my farts on a whole new level now! John Bonney Grand Rapids, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 08:56:00 -0500 From: Paul Shick <shick at jcu.edu> Subject: RE: Bill M's "nose calibration test" Hi all, Bill Macher writes in asking about a "nose calibration test," worried that he's not getting as much out of beer aroma as he should. Bill, your best bet is to round up some folks and work through the BJCP Study Guide together (then take the exam at the end.) It's a great excuse to get together with a group of people once a week, talk about some aspect of brewing, then taste and judge some good beers. At the end of 10 weeks, your palate and nose will be much more educated than they were, and you'll have impressed your friends with your dedication to academic work. You might also round up an experienced taster/judge to help coach your group through parts of the course, but it's quite possible to do it all on your own. Once you have a handle on beer styles, you'll find that there are tons of competitions looking for judges and stewards (even "serious" novices.) It's a great learning experience to sit next to a very experienced judge and compare your perceptions with his/hers. That odd note in the aroma that you can detect but not put a name to suddenly becomes clear. You also find out what aromas or tastes you're sensitive or insensitive to. In my case, I'm relatively blind to diacetyl, but I pick up certain kinds of oxidation compounds at very low levels. For others, it's exactly the opposite. Check out the BJCP site at www.mv.com/ipusers/slack/bjcp/. The Study Guide is a great service, written by Edward Wolfe, Scott Bickham, David Houseman, Ginger Wotring, Dave Sapsis, Peter Garofalo and Chuck Hanning. I (and many others) owe these seven people a lot of thanks. Good luck with educating your senses. Paul Shick Cleveland Hts, Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 13:45:16 +0000 From: "Joel Plutchak" <plutchak at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Beer Road Trip (Portland OR) "Terry L. Wilmoth" <tbear6 at fuse.net> wrote: >Two musts in Portland: 1) Bridgeport Brewing. If you visit only one >brewery in Portland, make it Bridgeport. 2) The Horse Brass Pub -> >the local outlet for Full Sail Brewing (Full Sail is located in Hood River, >OR in the Columbia River Gorge about an hour's drive east of Portland >well worth the drive, but if you can't, go to the Horse Brass, better >yet, do both) > >Bridgeport is beer Nirvana, Full Sail is damn close IMHO. ACKKKK! I suspect you may get a bit of feedback on this matter. Most egregious is assigning the Horse Brass some sort of relationship with Full Sail. That's simply not true. The Horse Brass is a wonderful place to find a large variety of well-kept beer-- local, regional, domestic, and imported-- on cask, in kegs, and in bottles. It's owned by Don Younger, who also owns Belmont Station[*], the excellent bottle shop across the walkway from the Horse Brass. IMO if you had only one stop in Portland it would hands down be the Horse Brass Pub, with an obligatory saunter over to Belmont Station for a few "hotel beers." I just got back from what's becoming an annual trip to Portland and the highlight of this trip was sitting at the Horse Brass bar with a couple friends chatting with Don Younger himself over beers like J.W. Lees Hrvest Ale gravity-dispensed from a wooden keg, Harveston's Old Engine Oil hand-pumped from a cask, etc. The Full Sail Pilsner Room is what you seem to have gotten confused with the Horse Brass. It has a location at the southernmost end of the west downtown-y area right on the river. It's a brewpub that features their own beer, Full Sail brews from the main brewery in Hood River, and a couple-three dozen guest beers. I thoroughly enjoy visiting The Pilsner Room, though the service outside is often molasses-slow and prone to errors-- sit at the bar inside, or at least order every other beer directly from the bar. This is another place I try not to miss if in town. Bridgeport Brewing is nice, and always has a small selection of decent beers on, but I don't think they do any guest beers, and since they were bought by a big, non-local concern some years back seem to harken more to the bottom line than to brewing cutting edge craft beer. E.g., when I was there they had no barleywine available. Rumor has it they either (a) stopped brewing it for "space concerns", or (b) will only be brewing it every few years because "that's how long it lasts." Gee, maybe if they brought it to festivals like the OBF or put it on in small-volume kegs at the brewery they'd sell more. (Do you sense my disappointment at not being able to enjoy their barleywine this year? ;-) Bridgeport, to me, isn't a "must-see" in Portland. Do try their ubiquitous IPA on cask at The Horse Brass, or Higgins (a short stroll from The Pilsner Room; also recommended over Bridgeport), and if you do make it to the brewery have some porter with some of their pizza. And give 'em a hard time about the barleywine. :-) Portland is really a beer-savvy city, and even the smallest bar or pizza joint will have a good local tap or two. It's hard to go wrong, but I'd put the Horse Brass Pub at the top of the list. [*] See <http://www.horsebrass.com/> & follow the links. Joel Plutchak Beer-bereft in small-town East-central Illinois Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 07:03:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul Kensler <paul_kensler at yahoo.com> Subject: re: sanitizer Jim Steinbrunner described a very efficient sanitizer-saving process and later in the same digest, Victor Franklin asked: "Does sanitizer ever go bad? I have some unfinished iodine, which is about two years old." Jim, I'd recommend getting those iodine test strips as you suggested, just to make sure you've got enough iodine in solution to keep the job getting done or at least keep an eye on the color. Victor, you especially might want to get some of these test strips since your iodophor has been kept in a hot garage. They look like pH test papers but they tell you how many ppm iodine is in solution. Then again, I'm not sure how much test strips cost - it might just be cheaper to buy some fresh sanitizer. Long self-indulgent story: I once bought a gallon jug of iodophor (it was really cheap) and I thought it would be the last iodophor I would ever buy even though I generally mix the solution on the strong side, 25ppm. Eventually after 3 or 4 years, I noticed that my iodine solutions just didn't seem very dark - they kept getting lighter and lighter. I did some research and read that iodine readily evaporates but they put some sort of binding agent in the iodophor to keep it in the liquid. The binding agent slows the evaporation process but doesn't stop it. So, a solution of iodophor will lose its iodine eventually over time - apparently, the iodine in my iodophor had been evaporating over the course of a few years, gradually making it weaker and therefore putting less iodine into my sanitizing solution. What's more, the binding agents in the iodophor are apparently pretty attractive to various bacteria - so not only will the sanitizing solution lose its sanitizing ability, but it becomes a breeding ground for bacteria. Since then, I've switched to Star San (which doesn't evaporate) and been using a system darn-near identical to Jim's - I keep reusing and reusing the same solution, topping up with fresh whenever necessary, or siphoning the clean solution off any solids that manage to get in there and settle out (hop bits, plastic bits, laundry room lint, dog hair, my glasses...). It sure is handy to have a bucket of sanitizer around at all times! Also, Star San seems to do a better job of penetrating any left over motor oil when you ferment in an old Chevy engine block ;-) ...sorry, couldn't resist. Hope this helps, Paul Kensler Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 08:02:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Rick <ale_brewer at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: More Pretzel stuff Bill, Thanks for posting that great link. I'm finally going to bake some pretzels this weekend so I can perfect them for my Oktoberfest party. To all that may be interested, I found a chemical supplier that sells food grade (NF/FCC) lye (sodium hydroxide) and also has pretty good prices on lab equipment like Erlenmyer flasks. I just placed an order so I can't report on them yet. (NAJACYYY) For those interested here's the info: http://shop.chemassociates.com/shopsite/rasheman/feat_products.html Rick Seibt Mentor, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 08:19:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Rama Roberts <rama at eng.sun.com> Subject: re: Yield/Color Table Shawn writes: Does anyone know where I can get a table listing common grain yield(pts)and color(L). Check out: http://www.byo.com/referenceguide/grains/ (Man, that's my second BYO referral in 1 week, you'd think I was looking for a free subscription or something. Hint hint.) rama roberts san francisco bay area Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 10:11:09 -0700 From: "Gregory Lorton" <glorton at cts.com> Subject: re: AHA Club Only Competitions Mike Rogers wrote: What gives with the May competition? One of our club members submitted his entries and hasn't received feedback. They haven't even cashed the check... He has corresponded via Email, but no details have been given. The AHA should add guidelines associated with the turnaround of the results. This is getting out of control. Anyone else experienced similar concerns? How's 2-6 weeks for a guideline? One to two weeks should be a reasonable amount of time. The results can be e-mailed out in a few days, but it seems to take an organizer a couple of hours to do the copying and stuffing of envelopes, and that would best happen on a weekend (hopefully the following weekend). Unfortunately, there is tremendous variability between clubs when it comes to handling club-only competitions. I entered one contest where I received the scoresheets back one month after the contest, with the number 3 circled at the top of one sheet. (This meant that I finished third.) On the other hand, the Derby Brew Club mailed their results out shortly after the Dunkelmania contest, and included a two-page enclosure that described the results, had photos - very nice. Several years ago, the Rillito Creek Brew Club in Tucson set a lofty standard by setting up a website for their Club-Only, and they had the results up on the site the next day. Hopefully, the AHA keeps track of which clubs do a good job and which clubs don't. We share your pain, and we tried not to let that happen when we hosted ours. Cheers Greg Lorton Carlsbad, CA QUAFF Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 10:59:17 -0700 From: "Parker Dutro" <ezekiel128 at edwardwadsworth.com> Subject: Portland Brewpubs Floyd, I second the Horse Brass, visit if possible. Bridgeport is a great beer, but I have no experience with the pub itself. Hear its EXCELLENT food, though. I would add to the list the Rogue brewery. It's in the same neighborhood as Bridgeport, and the beer is the best in town. Friends of mine and I agree that Rogue is everything great about beer. Have a good visit! Parker Dutro, P-town, Oregon "Excuse me doctor, but I think I know a little something about medicine!" -Homer Simpson Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 11:02:38 -0700 From: "Parker Dutro" <ezekiel128 at edwardwadsworth.com> Subject: defective nose? Bill, Whatever you get out of smelling beer, you will have to make due with! I like to smell beer to anticipate the taste when I do finally put the glass to my lips. Everybody has a differing scent palate, but the sense of smell is so intimately involved with the sense of taste that, if you take a sniff of brew and tries to use the front of your tongue to taste the smell, your brain should merge the two actions. Look at it this way, maybe it's not your sniffer that's the problem, perhaps your brain is too effective at segregating your senses. I have found that I get a better "scent sample" when I take a very slow sniff, and try to keep the fragrance at the edge or tips of my nostrils. It may sound weird, but it really makes a difference for me. If I just snort or suck air in a smelling act, I get almost nothing. But when I just hold my nose over the glass and draw almost nothing, I get the full fragrance of the beer. Maybe try experimenting. How is your sense of taste? How long do tastes linger on your tongue? Your sense of taste may be dulled. As far as a way to gauge your sense of taste, I don't know if it's possible? That's like saying that you know for sure that the color you see as "green" is the same hue as what I call "green". Do you take allergy medicine or anything like that? "Excuse me doctor, but I think I know a little something about medicine!" -Homer Simpson Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 14:56:06 -0500 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: re: What's in your Fridge? Beer snacks I usually like pretzels with my beer. (Store bought kind, but the soft ones the other day were great) Or nothing at all. But....If you happen to be drinking a CAP, without a doubt, the very best snack I have found is cashews. Unbelievable taste combination. I should send that to Fred Eckhardt for his beer tasting reviews. Cheers Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 15:06:15 -0500 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: RE: Lager/beer fridge Chris, Usually uprights don't work for brewing because the shelves, which are built in, are the cooling racks where the Freon is. You can't tear them out because the freezer won't work when all the Freon leaks out and destroys the ozone layer. Right. I have heard of someone bending them down, without breaking them, and using the freezer. Not sure I would want to try that. Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 13:11:17 -0700 From: "dave holt" <brewdave at hotmail.com> Subject: ball valve keg woes I guess I should have been more descriptive on the Co2 side of my kegs leaking. When I am carbonating the beer, you get the initial whoosh into the keg until equilibrium is reached, and then I hear a tiny hissing noise thereafter. If I push down on the gas quick connect, sometimes the sound goes away, sometimes just a little fainter, and sometimes worse. I have interpreted this to mean that Co2 is leaking between the ball valve o-ring and quick connect. I've tried new o-rings, pin lock o-rings because they are thicker, keg lube, and new quick connects to no avail. On the beer and Co2 side, I spritz iodophor on the poppets because these do have a tendency to not seat correctly. If it bubbles, I know to reseat it with a small screwdriver. Ed Jones wrote me privately suggesting that I do this too. Just have to remember when the keg is full not to push on the beer side indoors or near the face. Makes for a nice beer enema in the nose and beer on the ceiling. Paul Kenser sent an email with a good troubleshooting guide. Unfortunately, all the suggestions have been done already. Paul did jog my memory that my last tank of Co2 didn't seem to last very long. I went to use it and the tank was empty. Hmm, I left the valve open. Wonder if I have a leak? Which Paul related that he had a problem with a certain regulator used on a certain tank and if he swapped the multiple tanks and regulators he own, the problem went away. Paul also suggested that I use Star San to check for leaks between the ball valve o-ring and the quick connect. I like this suggestion and will try out this weekend. Then Kent Fletcher wrote: >Dave, pardon an obvious question, but do they leak WITHOUT the tank > >attached? If not, the leak is in your CO2 setup. Most likely suspect >is >the hose connection at the QD. Had this problem myself, lost 5 lbs >of CO2 >in the cooler. Tighten that flare connection! You can also get >flare >seals. Less likely is the hose itself, or the connection at the >regulator. >Remote possibility is the pop-off on the regulator itself. >Grab that 9/16 >wrench and cinch down that flare, dude! Thanks Kent. From Paul and I's discussion, and from your post, I need to go off and investigate the Co2 tank setup. Regulator/tank, fittings, hoses, the quick connect. Dave Holt Forest Lakes, AZ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 13:38:59 -0700 From: David Radwin <dradwin at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: Cold vs. Warm commercial beer > From: Wil at maltydog.com > Subject: Cold vs. Warm commercial beer > Where did this get started and who started it. Perhaps Coors? > Have you ever refused retail beer because it was cold/warm/cold? > Am I nuts? I have, as they say, "drank enough beer to float a > battleship around" and it has gone from cold to warm to cold more than > a time or two and I have never had it "go bad" > Ideas? At the Anchor Steam brewery tour in San Francisco, which I highly recommend (it's free and they give you plenty of beer to sample), they say that they require their beer to be shipped to and stored cold in the stores in the 49 states it serves. The 50th state, Oklahoma, apparently has a law against selling cold beer that is intended to reduce drinking and driving. I don't recall what purpose the refigeration serves, although someone (maybe the tour guide) told me that exposure to light is the real culprit in skunking beer. The above notwithstanding, I have seen cases of Anchor Steam sitting unrefrigerated at our local warehouse club, about 20 miles from the brewery, so I guess the refigeration rule isn't that strictly enforced. Anyway, I find the refigeration requirement ironic considering that Steam (California Common) beer is originally the result of lack of refigeration (lager yeast fermented at room temperature). - -- David Radwin hbd at davidradwin.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 21:14:08 -0400 From: Jeff & Ellen <JeffNGladish at ij.net> Subject: pacific nw I've enjoyed reading the recent posts about beer and traveling in Seattle and Portland. From my standpoint in Florida in July, the Pacific Northwest is a cool fantasy and pleasant memory of past trips. We've always had perfect weather when traveling in the summer months. A few years ago, we stayed at the Kennedy School, one of the McMennamins Pubs in Portland, and had a wonderful time. The beer was not the highlight. The art and charm of the building was. There is artistry to every detail, making it fun just to walk around inside the building. The Horsebrass Pub is not far from The Kennedy School and is a great place for cask ales. Portland Brewing Company is impressive for its huge, shiny copper kettles. Bridgeport is a must. The drive to Full Sail is awesome. How many waterfalls can you stand to see in one morning? Full Sail's tasting room overlooks the "wind surfing capitol of the world", if I'm not mistaken. There's great beer everywhere. 'Wish I were there now. Jeff Gladish, Tampa, where it's hot and I'm running out of homebrew Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2002 22:30:32 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Scotmalt anyone? Ed Evans <eevans at moscow.com> asked >My preferred HB shop switched (based on customer feedback) from Marris Otter >to Scotmalt[1]. >What's the word on Scotmalt? Any experience? There's a little nomenclature problem here - Maris Otter is a variety of malting barley - Maris is a breeder that names its barleys after native English mammals. There is also Maris hedgehog and badger, I believe. Maris Otter is a superior malting barley that has been superceded by newer varieties, or at least would be if the farmers and breeders had their way. But fortunately, maltsters are able to keep it going by paying farmers a premium. Now Scotmalt is a maltster. They could malt Maris Otter if they chose to, and they may well. I don't know. But when you say your HB shop switched from Maris Otter to Scotmalt, that doesn't quite make sense. I suspect they switched from Baird or some other maltster to Scotmalt. Scotmalt malts are fine British style malts - I used them when our local supplier carried them. Hope this helps. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
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