HOMEBREW Digest #4027 Thu 29 August 2002

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Removing a Sankey tap (Drew Hough)
  Hop Back Construction (Tony Barnsley)
  RE: Cleaning CF Chiller ("David Houseman")
  oxygen (Himsbrew)
  Re:  building the brewery stand ("Dennis Collins")
  CAP bug... (Mark Linton)
  Boston Beer Haunts (Pete Limosani)
  RE: building the brewery stand (Wayne Aldrich)
  Spelling of Shmoo and How it Relates to Brewing ("Pete Calinski")
  Stainless fitting welded with non-SS welding wire and related health risks (John Scime)
  Suggestions for Timothy (LJ Vitt)
  Keg lines to Kitchen (jayspies)
  RE: Newbie and new list member (Bill Tobler)
  Re: Removing a Sankey tap (Jeff Renner)

* * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 23:15:28 -0700 From: Drew Hough <brew at kallnet.com> Subject: Removing a Sankey tap This may sound like a silly question. At long last I feel comfortable describing myself as a confident and experienced homebrewer, and I am able to serve my homebrews with ease in Cornelius kegs. But I am embarrassed to admit I have very little experience dealing with commercial US beer kegs, and now one is on tap in our house. I want to clean the line as I would with the Cornies, but I am terrified of what would happen if I remove the tap and I want to avert a mess. The keg is under CO2 pressure and the beer line contains beer up to the faucet (obviously). I would imagine a commercial keg and/or the Sankey tap would have a check valve, a poppet or the like to facilitate easy removal, but this is not something I want to find out by trial and error. If a 15.5- gallon keg empties all over the floor, dirty beer lines will be the least of my worries. I have not been able to find this information anywhere on the Net. Although I could probably call any bar or self-respecting frat guy, I figured I would post my questions inwpublic forum for anyone else who might find the answer useful. So, please, what is the proper way to un-tap a full and pressurized keg? Do I need to bleed all of the internal pressure first (poor beer!), or is there a check valve to keep the beer and gas contained in the keg? What should I expect from the tap when removed? (For example, will some of the beer left in the line spill out of the tap? Will the residual pressure in the gas supply line (although closed) spray beer from under the tap everywhere?) Thanks in advance! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 11:56:17 +0100 From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley at blackpool.gov.uk> Subject: Hop Back Construction Hi all, Thanks for all the help with some recent queries. So here is another one. In order to get some great aroma in my beers I have incorporated a hop back in line between my Pump and CFC. Its a 1L stainless steel storage container with a 'clamp down' lid. I have a filter in place which is the filter bit of a cafetiere type coffee maker. It will hold around 40g of hops which is about OK for my 45L batches, but I will be moving up to a bigger batch size soon (Say Around 200L :> ) and will be wanting to use something just a little bit bigger. Now my current hop back is not without its problems. One is getting a seal with the clamp down lid, but I think that I can solve that by wrapping wire around the clamp bits. At my usual flow rates (4.5L / min) I get around 30 seconds flow before the wort sprays out between the seal. What I suspect is happening is that the hops are blocking the filter. One thing I will be trying is to use a bigger coarser filter, say a large scrubby, and see how that works. I am concerned however what this will mean for my larger hop back. I was thinking about using a 10L corny, and some sort of stainless mesh filter. Similar to a bazooka screen but around the size of a coke can, anyone know of such a device available ready made? (Zymie?) - -- Wassail! The Scurrilous Aleman (ICQ 46254361) Schwarzbad Lager Brauerei, Blackpool, Lancs, UK Email Disclaimer is: http://www.blackpool.gov.uk/democracy/corpdocs/EmailDisclaimer.htm This message has been scanned by F-Secure Anti-Virus for Microsoft Exchange as part of the Council's e-mail and internet policy. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 07:31:36 -0400 From: "David Houseman" <housemanfam at earthlink.net> Subject: RE: Cleaning CF Chiller "Even though this obstruction was a bug's nest of some kind (yes, I admit I left my chiller outside for a month or so without being used)..." A simple solution to prevent this problem is to buy two solid rubber stoppers (ACE/True Value Hardware) and with an appropriate size standard drill bit, drill a hole 1/2 way through the stopper. These form convenient prior to and after each use and just put them back on to keep ants, bees and dust out of the chiller. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 07:46:23 EDT From: Himsbrew at aol.com Subject: oxygen greetings all! A while back someone suggested using a oxygen tank from home depot(the desposable kind), I picked one up ,but my question is :what do you usee for a nozzle, the guy at the store suggestec I use the one from my propane torch(also left hand thread), I tried but it doesn't seem to fit. Can I pick up some plumbing fitting?or does it need to be one designed specifically for an o2 tank? ps. does anyone have a nice malty Okt.fest partial mash recipe they would like to share? thanks, patiently waiting to make better beer in Green Bay Wi. (just left of Jeff on my map) ;-) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 08:21:33 -0400 From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins at drain-all.com> Subject: Re: building the brewery stand Marc Sedam asks about brewery stands. One point confused me: "...I want to create a three-tiered system. The highest tier would be the HLT, but would NOT need a flame source. I can heat the water and pump it up to the HLT when finished. The second tier will be the mash tun, and the lowest tier will be the kettle..." A three tier system is certainly the tallest all grain structure you can build, and it's usually a gravity fed system. My question is, if you already have a pump, why are you building a three tier system? If you have the pump, you can just pump water out of the HLT instead of having it over your head for a gravity feed. Sounds a lot safer. Folks usually get pumps to avoid having the height of a three tier gravity system. Just an opinion. Dennis Collins Knoxville, TN http://sdcollins.home.mindspring.com "In theory, theory and practice are the same, but not in practice". Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 07:25:33 -0500 From: Mark Linton <cryptcl at earthlink.net> Subject: CAP bug... Well, like some others around here, Jeff Renner's article on brewing a Classic American Pilsner has got me curious (http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue3.5/renner.html), and I'm planning on brewing one of these next. I'm probably going to skip the two step mash at 140 and 158F, and do a single rest at around 150-ish F and add a 1/2 pound of a light crystal. Cluster for bittering, and Sterling for flavor/aroma (it's described to have characteristics similar to a blend of Hallertauer and Saaz). Target IBU = 27 or thereabouts. Okay, now which yeast to use? It seems like there would be three legitimate options: White Labs WLP840 American Lager Yeast (Attenuation = 75-80%) Wyeast 2035 American Lager Yeast (Att. 73-77%) Wyeast 2272 North American Lager Yeast (Att. 70-76%) Has anyone used any of these three yeasts? Would all be suitable, or is one a better historical choice than another? Any guidance on any other item would be appreciate. Thanks! Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 08:35:19 -0400 From: Pete Limosani <plimosani at rcn.com> Subject: Boston Beer Haunts >On Tue, 27 August 2002, John Baxter Biggins inquired >about Boston beer haunts: > > > > Will be travelling to Boston (specifically Harvard in > > Cambridge). Need > > advice on the good places to go. Note: will only be > > there a day, so please > > tell me the outstanding, must-see bars/breweries. > > > > Private email OK > > > > -jb A beer hop in Boston just wouldn't be, without a stop at the Sunset Grill & Tap at 130 Brighton Street in Allston (a section of Boston--a mile or two from Harvard U.). They have over 100 beers on tap (none of them from Milwaukee) and a four page menu of bottled beers (I think about 350). Order the curly-cue fries if you want to snack with your beer. Their steam burgers are good, too. Here are some reviews: http://boston.citysearch.com/profile/4742908 http://www.pubcrawler.com/Template/ReviewWC.cfm?BrewerID=1138 http://www.beeradvocate.com/beerfly/user_reviews/1058 Here is their home page: http://www.allstonsfinest.com/sunset.htm (has a list of their beers) I've been going there for at least 10 years now. It's the place that inspired me to brew my own. Maybe I'll see you there... Pete Limosani Waltham, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:29:42 +0200 From: aldrich4 at t-online.de (Wayne Aldrich) Subject: RE: building the brewery stand Marc, go to this website. http://www.barleys.nl/index.htm?thuisbrouwerijen There are 90 different homebrewery designs here with links to each. I designed mine after 4 different designs I found here. Mine is not yet listed at the site. Good luck! Wayne Aldrich Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 10:20:24 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Spelling of Shmoo and How it Relates to Brewing Oops, sorry for spelling shmoo wrong. When I posted the link: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2002/08/19 /BU141187.DTL originally, I peeked back to check the spelling of shmoo. I just picked up the spelling of "schmoo" [sic] from the middle of the page where the original article spelled it incorrectly. I guess Joe Bsxcrtkz must have been in the room when I composed the post. I'm not sure if I spelled Joe's last name correctly, but I do remember that it didn't have any vowels in it. At least I got that part right (I hope). For those that don't know or remember, Joe Bsxcrtkz was another character of Al Capp's that appeared in his cartoon strip. Joe brought bad luck wherever he went. If he walked down the street, all the cars crashed into each other. If you got near him, you did something wrong. You could always spot Joe as he walked down the street in Dogpatch (the town where the cartoon was set). He had a black cloud hanging over his head that followed him everywhere, raining on him all the time. How does that relate to brewing? I have had some brew days when I am sure Joe was standing beside me but I just couldn't see him. How do shmoos relate to brewing? Well, my interpretation of the shmoo was Al Capp's way of making fun of the 'left wing" welfare state. ( Al was a "little to the right of Attila the Hun") When ever he felt that general opinion was getting too far to the left, the shmoos would return to Dogpatch. Of course, everyone loved it at first. The shmoos took care of everything, food clothing, shelter. The residents of Dogpatch didn't have to do anything. Just sit around; complete welfare state. Of course, over the 2 or 3 weeks that the shmoo segment ran in the paper, things went down hill and by the end, everyone was glad to see the shmoos leave so they could go back to doing for themselves. As for Homebrewing, we all know what happens when the beer welfare state (shmoos=Budmillercoors) make the beer. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY, near Buffalo The state that elected the carpet-bagger Hilary Rodham Clinton. Joe Bsxcrtkz must have been in NY that election day. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 07:22:32 -0700 (PDT) From: John Scime <jascime at yahoo.com> Subject: Stainless fitting welded with non-SS welding wire and related health risks Gilbert Milone asked about a Stainless fitting welded incorrectly. I'm certainly not a metalurgist (heck, I'm not even sure I can spell the word correctly), however, this issue has come up recently amongst the Members of Barleyment as a bunch of us have converted kegs. >From what I recall, "regular" (as opposed to SS) welding wire is very bad, but not only because your welds will rust thereby imparting off-flavours in your beer. Apparently, non-stainless-steel welding rod contains cadmium or some other hazardous element that has been linked as a carcinogen. As this is a rather important health issue, perhaps someone out there can provide the list with a better explanation. At minimun, I think you would do well to confirm the health risks of regular weld in a food processing application. Even if the risk is minimal, I myself wouldn't feel safe and would take steps to remove the risk. But I don't have any tried and true suggestions about how you should deal with your unfortunate situation beyond the following observation made yesterday while watching a welder attached a 1/2" SS coupling to my own sanke keg. As background, you need to know that I had already taken this keg to another welder, who managed to botch the job because he didn't have the correct shielding gas. His botched attempt consisted of partially welding the coupling flush with the outside of the keg. In summary, he only managed to apply about a 1/2" "blob" of SS weld around the circumference of the coupling . The second welder easily managed to grind off the previously applied weld, thereby freeing the coupling (with a gentle tap or two from a hammer). Once removed, the port looked about the same as it did before the welding mishap. So, based on this, I would think that an experienced welder should be able to do the same in your situation, although it won't be pretty. The welder could then clean-up the area around the remaining port with emery paper, SS wool or other abrasive, and re-weld the coupling with SS wire. It'll likely look a bit messy, but might do the trick. Lastly, you might consider making the original welder do the clean-up to reduce costs. Just make sure he doesn't mes-up twice in a row!! Good luck. John Scime Members of Barleyment Ottawa, Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 08:53:45 -0700 (PDT) From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> Subject: Suggestions for Timothy Timothy asked for some suggestions for beers to make that he can make with the equipement he already has for kit brewing. I'm suggesting you get one of the following books: Brewing the World Greatest Beers - Dave Miller The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing - Charlie Papazian Homebrewing Vol 1 - Al Koronas My suggestion for you is to buy unhopped extract, specialty malts, hops and yeast. You need to be able to crush the grains, but you can do this at may supply stores, thus not needing any more equipment. I know for myself, that the TNCJHB has recipes for extract with steeping grain instructions and recipes. Actually, I have the old version of it. I expect the others to have this level detail too. Tomothy asked for a specific recipe. He asked for dark, and lowly hopped ale. English brown - This comes from the Brown ale style book by Ray Daniels and Jim Parker. 8 lb pale ale extract 2 lb 40L crystal malt 2 oz chocolate malt 1 lb surgar 3/4 oz target hops boiled 60 min 1 oz Northern Brewer boliled 30 min Wyeast #1318 Londn ale III yeast Crush grains and steep at 1 gal water at 160F 30 min. The recipe says 1 gal. I suggest 2. remove grain - If it is in a bag, this is easy. Heat to boiling. Turn OFF heat. Add extract and surgar and stir until disolved. Reheat to a boil. Add the 60 min hops Boil 30 min and add the 30 min hops. boil another 30 min. You should already know the rest chill, ferment, rack, ....... bottle or keg. Feel free to change your version. Hops and yeast would be the first things you might change. Hop and varieties are up to you. If you don't want to work with liquid yeast, I suggest Danstar dry yeast. ===== Leo Vitt Rochester MN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 18:31:37 +0000 From: jayspies at att.net Subject: Keg lines to Kitchen All - Alan McKay wonders about runing beer lines to his kitchen from a downstairs fridge. >>>I want to keep my keg fridge in the basement and run lines up to the kitchen counter (about 20 feet). Would this work?<<< Well, yes and no. :) The ideal tap system is one in which you can simply "plug and forget" your kegs from first sip to last, will maintain the correct CO2 pressure on the beer, and is balanced so as to avoid foaming at the faucet. This is easier said than done, especially since you're running the tubes vertically. There are two major sides to a draft system; the input side (ie - co2 to keg) and the output side (keg to faucet). To acheive a harmonious draft system where both you and your beer are happy, these two sides need to be balanced. Let me explain a bit: First, measure the inside temp of your fridge. CO2 dissolves into solution at specific volumes depending on temp. Lower temps allow more CO2 to dissolve, and hence your beer becomes more carbonated at a given pressure as temp decreases. For most beer styles, *my palate* says about 2.3 volumes of co2 gives me a good compromise on carbonation (YMMV). Some high carbed styles like hefe get the sharp end of the stick with this, as do lower carbed styles like stout, but running different pressures simultaneously presents its own set of problems, and with your proposed setup, I'd stick to just one. There are many carb charts out there that give you a volumes/temp grid, but I find that a pressure of about 13 to 14 psi, and a temp of around 45 degrees gives me the correct volume. That's the input side. Assuming 45 degrees, set the regulator at about 13 psi. Now for the tricky part. Beer line gives resistance depending on the ID. You want this resistance to balance the pressure, ergo, the output side psi resistance must roughly equal the input side psi pressure. Additionally you are going up, and gravity also = resistance, at about 1/2 lb per vertical foot. So, you need to factor in how much rise you have. Let's say for the sake of the post that the rise is 10 feet. At 1/2 lb/ft, this is 5 psi right off the bat to factor in. If your total run is 20 feet, you need beer line with an appropriate ID to knock off 8 psi in 20 feet. 8 divided by 20 = .40. 5/16" beer line just happens to give you a resistance of .40 lb/ft, so 20 feet of 5/16" line = 8 lbs of resistance. 5 psi from the rise + 8 psi from the line = 13 psi. Voila, balanced. HOWEVER, (haha, you knew there'd be a catch...) beer line will degass the beer as it sits, so to get a good pint, you'll likely have to run off the contents of the beer line which will likely be about a beer (by my seat of the pants calc) each time you want a quaff. Also, maintenance of this much line can be tiresome (beer line cleaner run-through every few weeks....) In the end, it can be done, but not without some drawbacks. If you use skinnier line to waste less, you need to increase the pressure, and to keep the beer from being a foamy mess you'll have to raise your fridge temps... Also, pulling cold air through 20 feet of pvc might be a chore for a little fan, since cold air wants to sink. If I were you, I'd try to either find a place upstairs for your keg or walk some stairs. I'd hate for you to do all this work and then have your system be inconsistent. I hope this has helped. Feel free to email me if you have any further questions... Jay Spies Charm City BrewWorks Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 14:03:56 -0500 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: RE: Newbie and new list member Hey Tim, Welcome to the HBD. A great place to figure stuff out and pass the time. A great article on cleaning and sanitizing is on "The Brewery" site. Here is a link to the site and the article. The article and a whole bunch of other stuff is in the Library. http://brewery.org/ http://realbeer.com/jjpalmer/cleaning.html Are you wanting to go to all grain brewing? Do you do full wort boils or partial boils? Extra equipment for all grain is not too much. If you are sticking with 5 gallons, 2 Rubbermaid round coolers and drain conversion kits, a 7-10 gallon pot to boil in, an outdoor propane burner, some kind of false bottom/manafold for the bottom of the mash tun, and 6-8 hours for your first batch. You might want to do some reading up first. Try John Palmers "How To Brew" book. Very good. http://www.howtobrew.com/ Cheers Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 16:06:00 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Removing a Sankey tap I noted this topic in the queue and guessed that it might be a request for "how-to." On that chance, here is an old post I've repeated every once in a while. Jeff I've been kegging in these (Sankey kegs) since about 1982. First, *release all pressure* by pressing down on the ball valve or you'll get your teeth full of a heavy valve and draw tube assembly when you release it. Hold a rag over it or you will get a face full of stale beer. Then, using a small screwdriver, pry out the flat retaining ring. Next, using the jaws of a pair of pliers as a tool, turn the valve to the left maybe 30 degrees, and lift it out. It takes less time to do it than to describe it. Soak the inside with dilute bleach water or your favorite sanitizer for a few hours and boil the valve/drawtube to sanitize it. Rinse, fill with beer, reverse the above steps. The hard part is re-installing the flat retaining ring. You have to press down to compress the O-ring (which is under the valve). To do this, I put a plumbing part called a reducing coupler (I think 3/4" to 1/2")) on top of the valve, hook a board under the lip of the keg top, across the coupler as a fulcrum, and sit on the other end. Then I force the ring into its slot by twisting a wide screwdriver blade in the gap against the coupler until it's home. It takes me about 30 seconds. You'll need to get a tap, of course. I keg about half of my beers in these, the rest in 5 gallon Cornelius (soda) canisters, which have the advantage of being easier to fill and seal, using cheaper taps, and taking up less room in the fridge. Of course, they hold less. There is also an easily removable replacement ring available from HB suppliers. Good luck. -Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 08/29/02, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96