HOMEBREW Digest #4053 Sat 28 September 2002

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  Deuchars IPA recipe (reuben.g.burgoyne)
  GFI/Bad News ("A. J. deLange")
  overnight mashing ("Sven Pfitt")
  -cocts (Paul Kensler)
  re: yeast autolysis and head retention (steve-alexander)
  FW: Split Rock 2002 HB Competition ("Houseman, David L")
  G.F.I. Receptacle Requirements ("DRTEELE")
  Hose Length, Regulator Pressure, and Foaming (Charles)
  re: overnight mashing (Gregory Michael Remake)
  RE: concical building ("Bill Lucas")
  Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy (was Brakspear Special Bitter) ("Jonathan Savage")
  Re: GFI - electrical safety ("Drew Avis")
  Re: GFI - electrical safety ("Dr. Michael Iverson")
  Michelob Ultra and overnight mashing ("Bob Hewitt")
  Re: overnight mashing (Road Frog)
  overnight mash mystery ("Tom & Dana Karnowski")
  Re: Chillin da Wort (David Towson)
  Re: CCF dump valve size (David Towson)
  RE: overnight mashing ("John C. Tull")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 15:57:25 +1100 From: reuben.g.burgoyne at accenture.com Subject: Deuchars IPA recipe Has anyone got either an extract or full grain recipe for this award winning Scottish beer that they have tried and recommend? http://www.camra.org.uk/SHWebClass.ASP?WCI=ShowDoc&DocID=2333 This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 05:16:13 +0000 From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: GFI/Bad News The GFI discussion reminds me of an overseas experience: "Oh Mr. A.J. I think you must be installing an ELCB on this sukhit." An ELCB is what the Brits call a GFI and I remember thinking "I'm going to pay for this some day" as the circuit was for the air conditioners on my van. Sure enough, a couple of months later a little rain (it only rains once or twice a year there) and a little leakage (water) lead to a little leakage (electrical), my AC's were off and my gear was cooked. A simple modification to the sensitivity of the ELCB (cut the wire from the sense core) would have protected us from another episode but darned if those jokers didn't test the bloody thing, find it wanting and replace it. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Some sad news from the Bangkok Post of Sept. 26: Headline: Singha lager loses its traditional kick Subhead; Lighter brew targets younger drinkers Byline: Nondhanada Intarakomalyasut [say that after a couple] "After making the same brew since 1933, Boon Rawd Brewery has decided to make its Singha lager beer less bitter, lighter in content and rejuvenate its brand image. "Starting yesterday, the new lager has an alcohol content of 5%, down from 6%, and a reduced hop content, the ingredient that crates a bitter taste. "The move is intended to improve the beer's share of the market among consumers aged 21 to 30 years, according to Chatchai Viratyosin, the company's public relations manager. To create a younger image, the company has spent 60 million baht [$1.4M] to launch a new advertising campaign, featuring three young actors: Dorm Hetrakul, Teeradej Wongpuapan and Thanakorn Posayanon. " 'We're aiming at young adults, not teenagers but young executives, and we believe the three presenters could represent such an image,' Mr Chatchai said. "As Singha lager has a long tradition, the company believes its established customers, who have grown older and more susceptible to hangovers, may prefer a lower alcohol beer. "However, Mr Chatchai siad that it was difficult to project the new brew's earnings potential." [Three more paragraphs on market share] This is a real pity because they already have a wimp beer, Singha Gold, which is similar to what they export to the states. The regular brand is (or was) a nice malty but crisp, bitter German style pils with OG of probably 14 and bitterness around 50 - 55 IBU. Guess we'd better drink up like mad before the new stock starts to hit the shelves. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 08:08:29 -0400 From: "Sven Pfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: overnight mashing Tom Karnowski asks if anyone does extended mashes. >To make more efficient use of my time I recently made a batch of all->grain >by letting my mash sit overnight. I single-step infusion >mashed at a low >temp, about 148F, with the grist comprised of 20+ lbs >of pale ale malt. I >let the grain sit for about 7 hours and in the >morning I collected my wort >and made the brew. I used Wyeast 1214. >The grain temperature was pretty >constant, down only 4 degrees to 144F >in the morning. Must be a well insulated tun. But I think you are mashing too low. >I know my mash temperature was on the low side-and I mashed a long >time- >but this is the most attenuated beer I've ever made. It started >around >1.070 and finished just above 1.000!! I racked it last night >and it >tasted OK albeit much drier than desired. the 1214 is not a >very dry >yeast as far as I know. Wy1214 - Chimay Yeast... so you are making a Dubbel? I usually end up with a TG of around 1.014 with this yeast when starting from 1.072ish. How did you prceed from the mash? Add boiling water to get mash out at ???F, and sparge with ???F water? >Is this consistent with the experience of anyone else, particularly the >folks who do overnight mashes (actually does anyone do an overnight or > >long mash? ..... SNIP..... No. Sometimes I do all day mashes where I load the grain in the tun the night before, and heat my strike water while I'm getting ready for work in the morning. I add the water just before I leave for work. When I get home, I heat sparge water while I'm making dinner. My mash day is usually 12Hrs by the time I get around to sparging. I Sometimes decoc part of the mash get the temp up to 168 before sparging. I normally do my all day mashes in a GOTT and it will be down to 120F by the time I get home. I start around 154F, so I'm loosing about 3.4F/Hr. I think your problems can be resolved by simply mashing at a higher temp. Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com Johnson City, TN [422.7, 169.2] Rennerian "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 05:45:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul Kensler <paul_kensler at yahoo.com> Subject: -cocts Con - coct: to bring together and cook. De - coct: to take away and cook. Half-coct: the result of one too many pints of my Big Brew Day "Maibock Fix". Paul Kensler Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 12:53:26 +0000 From: steve-alexander at att.net Subject: re: yeast autolysis and head retention Kevin Crouch is almost as skeptical of the weizen_yeast = autolysis proposition as I was when George dePiro and Hubert Hangoffer pointed this out a few years back. >I wonder why German hefeweizen yeast would be more >prone to autolysis, (for those who aren't cell >biologists, that's a fancy word for disintegrating) Apoptopsis is the 'two bit' term for the programmed cell death and there have been a couple papers on this re brewing yeast but not enough for a convincing conclusions about 'why'. >I would >be surprised if yeast would have enough proteolytic >enzymes to break down all the excess proteins in a >wheat beer so soon after bottling, Yeast have more than you think. Half the work of staying alive is removing defective proteins and reusing the amino acids. I don't have figures for yeast, but a human (size large) will remove almost 1 pound (400gm) of protein each day (!!) and reuse about 75% of the amino acids to produce new proteins. [So protein req is around 100gm/day] Yeast can also take in and reduce small poly-peptides (DP=2,3,4) as a source of amino acids using proteases. Also keep in mind that enzymes aren't used up - so a small amount of protease may reduce a large amount of protein given time. >and that the pH in >a finished Hefeweizen would be accommodating to these >enzymes. Probably not ideal - tho' I don't know vacuole pH for yeast. The pH activity curves for enzymes are a lot broader than HB literature suggests. A 50% activity point may be +-1.0 or even +-2.0 from the ideal pH. The too-low pH may reduce activity, but not to zero. - --- >My contribution to this discussion is the thought that >poor head retention might be caused by excess lipids. ... >Lee W. Janson, PhD. writes in [Brew Chem 101 [..] This book irks me but that's a different topic. The pro-texts mention proteases and lipids as the cause. Fatty acids, particularly UFAs are quite effective at destroying head-foam. There are several opportunities to reduce fatty acids in beer - but these come up when you remove break, pitch clean starters, use a secondary and remove the beer from yeast. I have to admit that my experience w/ weizen yeasts (wyeast's and one from Dan McConnell) is that they will autolyze *extremely* early and they have a tendency to form a greasy sludge and not just a yeast-bite flavor. I see no reason why this should be so since most wild saccharomyecs produce phenolic-off -flavor just like weizen yeast. Still there is a big difference in autolysis rates. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 09:09:34 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: FW: Split Rock 2002 HB Competition This is a second posting/notice that there will be homebrew competition on November 23rd, 9am-12ish, at the Split Rock Resort in the Poconos of Pennsylvania in conjunction with their annual Micro Brew Festival. Contrary to the web information, judging will only be on Saturday. Entry fees, $5, will go to the Multiple Sclerosis charity. This is a sanctioned competition and will use the standard BJCP/AHA style guidelines judging all beer, mead and cider styles. Entries should be shipped to The Resort at Split Rock, One Lake Drive, Lake Harmony, PA 18624, Attention Stacey Gould, for receipt from (November 18) to (December 5th). Two brown or green bottles with no markings are required. Any standard entry forms identifying the brewer and the appropriate entry category/subcategory are acceptable. Any standard homebrew competition entry and bottle identification forms are acceptable. Judges and Stewards will be needed and they should contact Stacey Gould [spevents at ptd.net] or me to secure a position. Judges and Stewards can hand carry their entries if they pre-register with payment. Checks should be made out to The Resort At Split Rock. Judges will receive an entry to the beer festival or entry to the beer dinner for their efforts and need to indicate which they wish when they commit to participate. The BOS winner will receive a complementary weekend for two at next year's Split Rock Beer Fest as well. But just entering makes you a winner for helping a good cause. More information will be available at the Split Rock web site (http://www.splitrockresort.com/gba_homebrew.html). David Houseman Competition Organizer housemanfam at earthlink.net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 10:37:05 -0400 From: "DRTEELE" <drteele at bellsouth.net> Subject: G.F.I. Receptacle Requirements Being an E.E. consultant, I know a little about G.F.I. required receptacles (like homer knows about medecine). So, here it is. The National Electric Code (N.E.C.) currently requires all receptacles located on the exterior of a home, in the garage, in bathrooms, above kitchen counters and in crawl spaces to be G.F.I. (ground fault interrupting) protected. This applies to all geographic locations where the N.E.C. is enforced (which is just about everywhere). Now, as far a renovations and upgrades are concerned. Most local governments (states, municipalities, etc.) have code amendments to the recognized national codes. Many of these codes require all renovations to be installed according to the current codes. And since G.F.I. receptacles are a pretty critical form of life safety, I doubt any inspector would approve a renovation in any of these areas where G.F.I. receptacles weren't used. Dan in Boynton Beach, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 07:29:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Charles at thestewarts.com Subject: Hose Length, Regulator Pressure, and Foaming Um . . . Isn't this the exact opposite of how it works? Doesn't a longer hose slowly drop the pressure so the beer doesn't experience sudden pressure drop and thus foam? So shortening the hose will INCREASE foaming, right? I know I've addressed foaming by adding a longer hose on my four taps. And won't increasing the regulator pressure increase foaming as well? I know when I travel with kegs, I keep the pressure just high enough to dispense - to prevent over foaming. By the way, I just bought one of those little devices that injects CO2 into a keg from a CO2 cartridge. I love it for taking beer on the go. Just one thing - the day after I received it, I saw the exact same item for about $14 at my neighborhood bike store(about half of what I paid, including shipping). See http://www.performancebike.com/shop/subcategory.html?Sub_ID=4362 - don't get one of the ones that require the more expensive threaded cartridge, though. Just screw it onto a ball-lock (or pin-lock if you prefer) gas-in fitting and you're good to go. Chip Stewart Gaithersburg, MD Charles at TheStewarts.com http://Charles.TheStewarts.com On Wed, 25 Sep 2002 Kent Fletcher opined regarding Picnic faucet: > > Rueben was getting a lot of foam from his new picnic > faucet setup. > > Rueben, at 6 feet your 3/16&quot; hose might be a tad long. > Presuming that your keg is cold, and that your > regulator is not set too high, try cutting 6&quot; (15 cm) > off the hose. If you still get foam, whack another > 6&quot;. Typically 4 to 5 feet of 3/16&quot; hose is about > right. The longer the hose, the greater the pressure > drop, which in turn leads to foaming. You can either > increase the regulator pressure to compensate or > shorten the hose. When you're not dealing with a > mandatory length (like reaching a bar from a remote > fridge) it's better to shorten the hose, as increasing > CO2 pressure will force more gas into solution, > causing overcarbonation. Hope that helps. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 09:30:02 -0500 From: Gregory Michael Remake <gremake at gsb.uchicago.edu> Subject: re: overnight mashing Hello all, Tom asks about overnight mashing, something he tried in an effort to save some time but ended up with an over-attenuated brew. For the past few years I mash and sparge at night, including a mash out, then leave the full kettle on the stove until morning, when I bring it to boil and finish the process. Total process time is a little longer because the runnings cool overnight and take longer to bring to bring back up to boil, but otherwise this approach allows me to take advantage of the only times I can reliably have to myself at home. I think the mash out helps to avoid the over-attenuation Tom ran into, as I've never run into that problem with my method. Also, if any contamination or other problems do take hold in the overnight dwell, the subsequent boil has eliminated any traces in all of my beers. I've waited as long as 24 hours between sparging and boiling to no noticeable ill effects. In fact, my beers turn out to be the best beer in the whole world (just ask me)! Maybe someday when the kids are grown and my wife runs out of jobs for me to do (sure) I'll return to the long single brewing session. But for now, I'd encourage anyone finding it difficult to commit most of a free day to brewing to try the split session. Cheers! Greg Chicago, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 10:39:39 -0400 From: "Bill Lucas" <Homebrew42 at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: concical building Joe asked for input on building a conical fermenter. Especially the size of the dump valve. I too have been looking into the same thing, with the same cone from Toledo Metal Spinning. I can't speak to the effectiveness of my suggestion (yet) but I am going to try it myself, although not for a month or so. Anyway I would suggest taking a look at Zymico's Konical Kit (NAJASC) http://www.zymico.com/konical/ I use their weld-B-gone ball valve and the Bazooka T on my kettle. Both have worked great so far, and I will not hesitate to use their Konical Kit when it comes time for me to make the plunge myself. I should also point out that they say this kit is designed specifically for the 12.2 gallon cone from TMS. However, the part of the design I am still thinking about is the lid to the unitank. I would like it to be a Plexiglas or other similar clear lid so I can still watch the action like in my carboys, be able to seal it air tight so I can watch/sniff the air lock (don't know why I like that so much), and finally have it be removable for easy cleaning between batches. So If anyone else has comments on that too it might benefit more than one person. As far as a stand goes I was going to build one our of angle Iron or some such, and would like to make it tall enough to be able to stack two conicals one on top of the other. I am not sure yet how I would get the beer into the top conical but that is what they make pumps for I guess... Just some thoughts since I have been thinking about the same thing. Have fun, Bill Lucas State College PA, [325.6, 106.6] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 07:54:33 -0700 From: "Jonathan Savage"<jonathansavage at earthlink.net> Subject: Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy (was Brakspear Special Bitter) >... recipe for the Brakspear Special Bitter. I've > found a recipe but am not sure > as to it's authenticity or quality (it looks > very old to me, but take it for > what it's worth). It's from the book "Brewing > Beers Like Those You Buy" by > Dave Line. I have that book as well and have been very pleased with the resulting beers. It *is* a little dated though. I simply take the grain bill/hop schema listed for a given recipe and make modifications if required (i.e. ignore the addition of Saccharine specified in some recipes, increase the base malt instead of adding sugar where sugar is not desirable etc.). All in all a decent book. There are a good number of beers in it that no longer extant. Bests Jon Long Beach, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 11:28:28 -0400 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: GFI - electrical safety Tony Verhlust points us to http://www.zymico.com/gfi.shtml for information on GFI. I notice that the site says GFI is incompatible with systems that use a solid state relay. My system uses an SSR to switch the 220V circuit. Can anyone suggest an alternative (either to the SSR or the GFI) or work-around? Drew Avis Member of Barleyment for Greater Merrickville, Ontario Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 12:02:24 -0400 From: "Dr. Michael Iverson" <mike3 at iversonindustries.com> Subject: Re: GFI - electrical safety To all, Over the last few months, I have seen several partially correct statements on the theory of operation of a GFI outlet and the purpose of the grounding pin on an outlet. For such a safety critical item, I feel this needs much clarification. For example: (HBD #3979) "A third wire representing an earth ground is also routed to all modern sockets & 240vac circuits, but not to lights or older style (pre 1960s) outlets. The earth ground design permits the use of ground-fault-circuit- interrupter(GFCI) sockets which are often required in kitchens, baths, basements." In a nutshell: 1. A GFI outlet does not require a ground pin for correct operation, (but it doesn't hurt in most cases). 2. The green/bare ground conductor protects against shorts from the hot wire to to the case. The neutral (white wire) and ground (green/bare wire) are actually connected together in the main panel. They must not be connected together elsewhere, however. For a complete discussion of this subject, I STRONGLY reccomend that you consult an electrical professional and the Electrical Wiring FAQ. The faq can be found at http://www.landfield.com/faqs/electrical-wiring or another location using a search engine near you. Here are a few edited quotations from the FAQ: Subject: What is a GFI/GFCI? A GFCI is a ``ground-fault circuit interrupter''. It measures the current current flowing through the hot wire and the neutral wire. If they differ by more than a few milliamps, the presumption is that current is leaking to ground via some other path. This may be because of a short circuit to the chassis of an appliance, or to the ground lead, or through a person. Any of these situations is hazardous, so the GFCI trips, breaking the circuit. GFCIs do not protect against all kinds of electric shocks. If, for example, you simultaneously touched the hot and neutral leads of a circuit, and no part of you was grounded, a GFCI wouldn't help. All of the current that passed from the hot lead into you would return via the neutral lead, keeping the GFCI happy. <...snip...> Subject: Where should GFCIs be used? The NEC mandates GFCIs for 110V, 15A or 20A single phase outlets, in bathrooms, kitchen counters within 6' of the sink, wet-bar sinks, roof outlets, garages, unfinished basements or crawl spaces, outdoors, near a pool, or just about anywhere else where you're likely to encounter water or dampness. <...snip...> Subject: Where shouldn't I use a GFCI? GFCIs are generally not used on circuits that (a) don't pose a safety risk, and (b) are used to power equipment that must run unattended for long periods of time. Refrigerators, freezers, and sump pumps are good examples. <...snip...> Subject: What's the purpose of the ground prong on an outlet, then? <...snip...> they're intended to guard against insulation failures within the device. Generally, the case of the appliance is connected to the ground lead. If there's an insulation failure that shorts the hot lead to the case, the ground lead conducts the electricity away safely (and possibly trips the circuit breaker in the process). If the case is not grounded and such a short occurs, the case is live -- and if you touch it while you're grounded, you'll get zapped. Of course, if the circuit is GFCI-protected, it will be a very tiny zap -- which is why you can use GFCIs to replace ungrounded outlets (both NEC and CEC). There are some appliances that should *never* be grounded. In particular, that applies to toasters and anything else with exposed conductors. Consider: if you touch the heating electrode in a toaster, and you're not grounded, nothing will happen. If you're slightly grounded, you'll get a small shock; the resistance will be too high. But if the case were grounded, and you were holding it, you'd be the perfect path to ground... Mike Iverson Grosse Ile, Michigan, USA [36.7, 111.7] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 12:11:50 -0400 From: "Bob Hewitt" <rthewitt3 at hotmail.com> Subject: Michelob Ultra and overnight mashing According to a web site (somewhere, perhaps RealBeer), AB is doing a 4-hour mash to get more fermentables into their Michelob Ultra wort. Less carbs, more alcohol, water it down, less taste. Not that that is a bad thing, if you like such things. I think an overnight mash is a variation on this: the enzymes keep working over the extended time, and you end up with more fermentables. Hey, water it down, carbonate the heck out of it, and save it for your friends who only drink "lite" beers..... I tried an overnight mash, too, and got the same over-attenuated result. Bob Hewitt Cincinnati, Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 10:57:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Road Frog <road_frog_run at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: overnight mashing I overnight/day long mash about 50% of the time. Your results is not consistent with my experience. I can repeat a recipe within 0.04 SG, either way. With my procedures and equipment this is acceptable. It may not work for you but it works well for me. Normal mash temp. for most of my beers is 152^F to 156^F. Glyn Southern Middle TN Tom &/or Dana Karnowski asked: >Is this consistent with the experience of anyone else, >particularly the folks who do overnight mashes (actually >does anyone do an overnight or long mash?) I wanted to >save time by makeing more efficient use of my brew day >(and night) but unfortunately I'm not convinced this >method is going to work out for me. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 14:12:46 -0400 From: "Tom & Dana Karnowski" <karnowsk at esper.com> Subject: overnight mash mystery HBD is great because you can get so many responses back so fast. Unfortunately when you make a mistake it, too, is propagated very fast. I mentioned an unusually low gravity (around 1.000!!) resulting, possibly, from an overnight mash, as it was the first time I tried this. Fred L. Johnson hit the true solution right on the head. I have worked a lot of hours the last 2 weeks to finish out some projects (its the end of our fiscal year) and get ready to take vacation. As as result I was unusually tired when I racked the beer. And, also, I am in a new house and this is the first batch I've brewed there (actually its the 2nd but the first didn't require racking to a 2ndary as it was a very low gravity brew.) I realized this morning what really happened and it was too late to cancel the post, but Fred's reply was first and happened to be right on the money. When I rack the beer I usually put a mason jar on the floor next to the hydrometer flask. I fill my siphon hose with iodophor water, put it in the carboy, and get it started into the mason jar. Once it is flowing well and has no more water I collect a sample in the hydrometer flask then let the rest go into the new 2ndary carboy. unfortunately I forgot the hydrometer flask. I got my sample directly from the mason jar, which (DUH) is mostly water. Not only was that stupid, I actually did it TWICE. I mashed two sets of grain overnight - one was the pale malt, and the other was mostly dark munich. I collected both and mixed the munich wort with part of the pale ale wort to make a dubble, and the rest was used to make a saison. I used two burners and boiled both within 30 minutes of each other. As an aside, the yeast choice and especially grain choice are not what I'd pick first for these styles, but it was what I had available. I'm sure the beers will be interesting, especially now that I know they aren't as attenuated as I thought. Mystery solved!! Tom Karnowski Knoxville TN Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 16:22:00 -0400 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Chillin da Wort In HBD 4051, Nathan asks: >I have just gotten a wort chiller and was wondering how does one keep >infection OUT of the wort during the cooling phase since the lid is off >the boiler? Even if I set it on top it isn't going to "seal" out everything. You don't want to get too paranoid about this, but you don't want to get sloppy either. Keep your brewing area clean, and try to keep the air around it still while containers are open. Keep the pets away, and get down to yeast pitching temperature as quickly as you can. Then move the wort to the fermenter, and get an adequate amount of yeast in there right away. I suppose the risk goes up somewhat if you're brewing outside, since keeping the air still may not be possible, but I really can't comment on that, as I don't brew outside. One solution would be a counterflow chiller, since you can keep the wort covered while using that. But in any case, if you want to be paranoid about something, focus your attention on equipment cleaning and sanitation. You're far more likely to get into trouble there, than when cooling your wort. Dave in Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 16:35:36 -0400 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: CCF dump valve size In HBD 4052, Joe asked about sizing of the dump valve on a cylindro-conical fermenter. >Anyone with a pre-fabricated one (fermenator or similar) want to comment >on how well yours works on sediment removal? I use the 12 gallon CCF from Beer, Beer and More Beer. Mine came with a bottom ball valve that had half-inch connections, but only a three-eighths-inch bore. I found that to be too small for yeast removal once the yeast had settled well, so I replaced the valve with a full-ported half-inch valve. That works fine for me, even after I cool the wort to 45 degrees to drop the yeast. Dave in Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 16:16:02 -0700 From: "John C. Tull" <jctull at unr.edu> Subject: RE: overnight mashing I use overnight mashing in a 10-gallon Gott cooler to maintain temperature. I always get a bigger drop in temperature than you had, but I do not have any issues with overattenuation. I would wonder if you may not have had a contamination issue (but you say the beer tastes fine). I sometimes wonder about the lowering of the temperature of the mash and the possible side-effects from enzymatic activity. My guess is that since the starch conversion completes before temps get too low that there should not be any problem with, say, proteolytic activity kicking back into effect. Anyway, I have not had any problems from the overnight mash technique. Gains include sleep, higher efficiency. Losses have not been noticed. John Tull Return to table of contents
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