HOMEBREW Digest #4087 Thu 07 November 2002

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  Subject: Beer in Anchorage! (SWrightS)
  Rasberry Wheat (frjeff)
  Latest dried yeast equivalency (reuben.g.burgoyne)
  Stainless conicals (Scott)
  Auto-purge fermenter (Bob Southwick)
  "Green" tasting beer (Teresa Knezek)
  Burton Ale Yeast Recipes ("John Maylone")
  Why would hot break re-dissolve when chilled? (Carmen Salvatore)
  Re: iodophor and plastic/rubber - What happens? (Fred L Johnson)
  Recipe for Wexford Irish Cream? (Ken Schwartz)
  RE: New Brewer (Eis) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com>
   ("Springstead, Randy")
  glenbrew kits (Randy Ricchi)
  Looking for sources of 8oz bottles (Bob Pelletier)
  The move from Extract to All-Grain (brian.dougan)
  Potassium Sorbate in Cider ("John Misrahi")
  RE: iodophor and plastic/rubber - What happens? ("Adam Wead")
  Re:  Mark's Newbie questions (Mark Kempisty)
  Keg descriptions (LJ Vitt)
  cider & beer in France ("B.R. Rolya")
  Plating removal on Brass and Counterpressure bottle fillers (Wade Hutchison)
  Wyeast dutch castle yeast (3822?) ("John Misrahi")
  Spices in AVBC Winter Solstice? (Paul Kensler)
  yeast types (Randy Ricchi)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 23:25:00 EST From: SWrightS at aol.com Subject: Subject: Beer in Anchorage! >KevinBailey writes: >Subject: Beer in Anchorage? >I'll be spending a couple of days in Anchorage >next week and was wondering if there are any >can't miss brewpubs to experience while I'm there. >TIA For a small city (population ~300,000), Anchorage is blessed with an abundance of good brewpubs! My favorites include the Snow Goose, with a great view of Cook Inlet on a clear day, and Moose's Tooth, which has the best pizza in town. Although not technically a brewpub, Humpy's has about 40 regional microbrews on tap and is a terrific place to meet the locals! Have fun!!! Steve Wright Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 04:39:59 +0000 From: frjeff at att.net Subject: Rasberry Wheat Brewing a Rasberry Wheat and kit came with a Rasberry extract/concentrate. I have read that some get better results with real fruit. If so, would welcome tips. If the concentrate is OK, how many ounces per five gallon batch? Wish to taste the raspberry, but prefer to still taste the brew. Batch is still in primary, so have a bit of time to decide. Gratitude! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:59:56 +1000 From: reuben.g.burgoyne at accenture.com Subject: Latest dried yeast equivalency I have been experimenting with some of the DCL dried yeasts available, particularly Safale S-04. I was wondering if anyone had done any work on documenting dried yeast approximate equivalency to some of the liquid yeasts available. While looking I found some work that another brewer had posted in rec.crafts.brewing back in January. I have expanded it a little and was wondering if anyone had any comments, corrections or additions. This is a very rough first stab. Also I'll be honest that most of my research so far has been paper based and not after any taste testing. I would love to hear from anyone who has done any comparisons even if against other yeasts. Wyeast White Labs Dry yeast 1056 ? Danstar Nottingham 1968 WLP002 Safale S-04 1028 ? Danstar Windsor 2007 ? Saflager S-23 2124 WLP830 Saflager 34/70 2308 ? Saflager S-189 3333 ? Safbrew T-58 3068 WLP300 Safale W-68 ? ? Safale K-97 ? ? Safale S-33 This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 22:01:55 -0800 From: Scott <sejose at pacbell.net> Subject: Stainless conicals Anyone here using the Fermenator? I'm wondering how the weldless racking port seal holds up and how often the o-ring needs to be replaced. Thanks Scott Jose Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 01:35:18 -0500 From: Bob Southwick <bsouthwick at interfacefire.com> Subject: Auto-purge fermenter Greetings to all from Palmer Alaska! I've been reading this digest a few weeks now and really enjoy it. I have picked up quite a few tips already thanks to you folks. Thought I would pass on something that I have come up with. To date I have been making extract brews in my humble little garage brewery. I have made a couple dozen batches in the last year or so. They have generally been fair to pretty damn good... well ok there was that one batch of pond water near the beginning there but we drank it (choked it down) and were all the merrier for it. But I digress. I saw my friends who had months if not years of experience on me making all their awesome beers, using all their cool gadgets and I was well, a bit envious. Okay I admit that I had CO2 envy. All my friends were purging their tanks and carboys with their fancy CO2 cylinders and doing cool stuff like that. I was convinced they were making better beer than me, at least in part, because they were using CO2. Of course I just had to figure something out unti lI could afford the CO2 equipment. Sooo I came came up with a way to purge oxygen from my secondary fermenter without the expense of all that cool equipment. I use the CO2 created during the primary ferment to purge the oxygen from the secondary fermenter. Its real simple I replaced the cap of the airlock on the primary with a second rubber stopper & tube that run into a dual nipple cap on the secondary. The connecting hose connects to one nipple of the secondary and a regular airlock connects to the other nipple. I went to the hassle of connecting racking rods to the under side of each "lid" but have learned that was probably not necessary. More than enough CO2 is generated during the primary ferment to purge both containers of all oxygen. You can see what I am talking about at http://www.walknbob.com/beer/autopurge.htm I can't claim that I am the first to think of this BUT I have never seen it anywhere else and none of my friends had heard of it. So I might have invented the method. Hope you find it interesting. WalknBob Southwick - ------------------------------------------------- This mail sent through IMP: http://horde.org/imp/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 22:43:20 -0900 From: Teresa Knezek <teresa at mivox.com> Subject: "Green" tasting beer Wow... well I don't think I have ever been so enthusiastically welcomed by any online group I've been involved with before... :-) (I even heard from a couple of women in offlist email, so there are some others on the HBD rolls) No worries about neanderthals and tech-geek talk scaring me off, hehehe... I'm in the internet business professionally, so I'm used to being totally outnumbered by men, and spending way too much time obsessing over strange, niggling technical details of everything I do... I can make a non-web-geek's eyes glaze over in ten seconds flat when I get going. Hopefully soon I'll be able to have the same mind numbing effect on non-brewers. :-) So here's my first "serious" question: When I bottled my batch of stout, I had a 1/2 bottle that poured last, so I used it as a taster... hehehe. Impatience is a virtue, really it is! How much can I expect the beer to "mature" in the bottle? It tasted somewhat watery, and there was a very "green plant" sort of flavor to it... a lot like the hops pellets smelled, only a bit stronger. (Underneath that was a faint, espresso-y/stout-y flavor, and it smelled great, so there's a good beer in there waiting to get out... I just know it!) I've read a lot about fermenting temperature ranges, and it was at the high end of the temp range I've seen recommended (around 74degF during primary fermentation, dropping to 68deg during secondary)... and there was also a little crisis during the transfer to the second fermenter that probably introduced quite a bit of oxygen into the brew... would either of those be likely cause the "green" flavor, and can I expect it to mellow out during the bottle conditioning process? Or is this just a normal stage of beer development, that will reliably fade as the beer matures? Looking forward to brewing my next batch this weekend... - -- :: Teresa :: http://rant.mivox.com/ "Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to live under the laws of justice and mercy." -- Wendell Berry Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 01:51:25 -0800 From: "John Maylone" <mrkoala at netptc.net> Subject: Burton Ale Yeast Recipes From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: burton ale yeast recipes Pete asks: What style recipes did you brew with this and did you note the excessive esters as well (maybe they weren't too bad compared to other yeasts at 78degF)? Pete, I brewed light ales with 6-7 pounds of light extract and 1 -1 1/2 pounds of 15L crystal malt. I noticed nothing unexpected or unpleasant in the way of smells, but after 33 years in the aerospace business, I don't claim to have the best sense of smell. (FWIW, I prime with corn sugar and bottle in swing tops.) Conversely, I brewed a couple of similar batches using Williams British Ale II yeast and they were lousy with off smells and tastes.......the worst two batches I've ever made. I am quite pleased with the Burton yeast and will use it again (got a batch planned for December or January), but I'm still hoping that by next summer I'll have a temperature controlled fridge to ferment in for the hot months.......if I can raise the thermostat in the house a couple of degrees, it'll pay for a fridge and thermostatic controller fairly quickly through the May-September period. Regards, John Maylone Tollhouse, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 06:01:52 -0500 From: Carmen Salvatore <carmen.salvatore at lmco.com> Subject: Why would hot break re-dissolve when chilled? Towards the end of the boil I took a sample of wort with a pyrex measuring cup. When I examined it I could see several small white puffy flakes floating around attempting to setting to the bottom of the measuring cup. Hot break I assumed. After a few minutes I looked again. Most of the flakes had settled and the wort was just about crystal clear. I was happy. I then poured some of the wort into a hydrometer test jar. I placed the jar under cold water in the sink to cool the sample down. As soon as the sample began to cool the few flakes of hot break that were still suspended in the wort re-dissolved and now the wort in the test jar was no longer clear but cloudy/murky. I took my gravity reading and left the sample in the test jar to see if it would clear up again. Over an hour later it was only slightly clearer but no where near what it had been when hot. Any idea why this would happen? Carm brewing in Utica, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 07:44:35 -0500 From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson at portbridge.com> Subject: Re: iodophor and plastic/rubber - What happens? Steven Yavorski asks why Iodophor attacks rubber and if this is a problem with plastics. The real chemists in this group can provide a more thorough (read as accurate) answer to Steven's questions about Iodophor, but I'll give it a stab anyway. Iodine will add across C=C double bonds, breaking the molecule at the location of these covalent bonds. These are apparently extensive in rubber and hence the rubber deteriorates rapidly. This activity is at least partly (perhaps major) the way that iodine and chlorine work to sanitize. They do the same thing to the lipids in bacterial cell walls and in anything else, for that matter, that has unsaturated lipids or doubly-bonded carbons. Once broken, the bonds are effectively always broken. It occurs to some degree in plastics, although to a much lesser degree or effectively not at all, depending upon the type of plastic. (Chemists, please jump in here anytime.) I keep a plastic bucket full of dilute iodophor for storing plastic parts, so they are always ready when I need them. Some parts stain (but work), others stain very little. I have plastic (vinyl?) tubing that is essentially opaque but is still flexible after months of storage in this bucket. It is still quite usable. Early on I was throwing rubber stoppers in, with the same result you have experienced. Now I sanitize anything that is rubber in Iodophor only immediately before using it. I do primary fermentations in plastic buckets which stain pretty quickly and heavily, so I only sanitize these with Iodophor just prior to use. - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 06:05:59 -0700 From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob at elp.rr.com> Subject: Recipe for Wexford Irish Cream? Anyone have a recipe for Wexford Irish Cream ale? - -- ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX Brewing Web Page: http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer E-mail: kenbob at elp.rr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:43:44 -0500 From: "Jones, Steve (Eis) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com> Subject: RE: New Brewer Welcome, Teresa. As Jeff has pointed out, most of the posters on this digest are male. Our club of 40 odd members (and I do mean ODD) has just 2 members of the female persuasion. It just seems a matter of fact that the vast majority of homebrewers are male, but the balance has been tipped just a little since you joined! I want to point out that there are online resources other than the HBD (sorry guys, but its true), though it is still the one that I read every morning with my coffee. There are a couple of homebrewing forums that are interactive in nature, and a post there is often answered within an hour. They are at http://hbd.org/forums (on the HBD server), and http://forum.northernbrewer.com (who happen to be this year's sponsor of the HBD). They are both similar in nature, and each one has a few women brewers who post on a regular basis. Steve Jones Johnson City, TN [421.8 mi, 168.5 deg] Apparent Rennerian State of Franklin Homebrewers http://hbd.org/franklin Member: AHA, AHA Board of Advisors, and AHA Liaison Have a suggestion on improving the AHA? email me at stevejones at aob.org Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 08:56:12 -0500 From: "Springstead, Randy" <Randy.Springstead at HollandUSA.com> Subject: Hello Fellow Brewers, I'm also new to the brewing and read HBD regularly. Thanks to all of you who freely give advice and opinions, it is a great help in sorting things out and expanding my knowledge of this wonderful hobby. I am looking for opinions and suggestions (no need to reinvent the wheel) on purchasing a burner for my garage brewing. 1-BTU's How many and why? 2-Natural or LP 3-Most burner for the buck 4-Best built (no regard to cost) 5-Best temperature control 6-Where to purchase 7-Any thing else I need to consider I'm hoping to get the skinny as to do this once and be very pleased with my purchase decision. Thank you in advance for your help. Randall Springstead springs28 at attbi.com aka Oldshoe Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 09:13:50 -0500 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at houghton.k12.mi.us> Subject: glenbrew kits I brewed a few Glenbrew kits about 10 years ago, just before I started all-grain brewing. The one I thought was really good was the Dortmund lager kit. They didn't use knottingham yeast then, or at least it wasn't packaged as such. I believe it was called "secret yeast", or Glenbrew yeast or something like that. The beer was very clean tasting, like a light colored, balanced lager. At the time, I hadn't been exposed to European or micro brews, and my reference was standard American swill. The Dortmunder lager had more flavor than swill, but was smooth enough that it was very much liked by my swill drinking friends. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 09:47:18 -0500 From: Bob Pelletier <rp at ihrsa.org> Subject: Looking for sources of 8oz bottles I am going to be brewing a Barley wine soon and was looking for a source. I found a few websites that will sell them for $15/case but I figured that I can do better than that. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 09:45:15 -0500 From: brian.dougan at plattsburgh.edu Subject: The move from Extract to All-Grain I am fairly sure this topic has been well covered in the HBD, but I am looking for some tips, hints and other helpful bits. As my one year anniversary of brewing approaches, I am feeling more and more like it may be time to take the step into the realm of All-Grain. I would appreciate private e-mails (for ease of keeping things sorted as well as not boring those who have read, read and re- read items on this topic many times) that share knowledge and other useful bits (equipment, set-up, etc.) that will help an extract brewer take that next step. Thanks in advance. -Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 09:55:13 -0500 From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: Potassium Sorbate in Cider Hi all, I started a batch of cider yesterday with a blend of store bought ciders. I used straight juice and looked for ones that didnt list anything other than apple juice or citric acid(vitamin C) on the ingredient list. I pitched a few packets of Coopers ale yeast. Today, there is no activity. Zero. I suspect there may have been Potassium sorbate or some other preservative that wasnt listed. Is that legal? Is there a way around this ie pitching massive amounts of yeast, or is all lost? John Pothole? Thats luxury! I have to ferment directly in my mouth. On brew day I fill up my mouth with wort in the am and drop a few yeast cells in and 3 hours later I swallow. Wish I had a pothole to ferment in. -Mike Brennan on the HBD "Ah, Billy Beer... we elected the wrong Carter." -Homer Simpson Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 08:37:15 -0700 From: "Adam Wead" <a_wead at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: iodophor and plastic/rubber - What happens? I, too, have had some problems with plastics in idophor. I sanitized a keg with some idophor, and left it in for 20 minutes, including the dispensing line. After that, I noticed an idophor smell comming from the beer. However, if I let the beer run through the line for a few seconds, the smell was gone. What I think happened was the plastic beer line absorbed some of the idophor odor because it was left in there for so long. Then, the odor passed to the beer when it ran through...but only to the amount that was still remaining in the line after each "pull" from the keg. I also might have had too high a concentration of idophor to begin with. I just recently read an article on-line about the use of idophor, and according to that article, 60 second contact with an idophor solution is enough to santize. Forgive me, but I don't have the url for the article. Anyone have it handy? Although a properly dilluted solution of idophor, at the right length of time, isn't supposed to add any off-odors, I'm still hestitant to use it on plastics (like my primary fermenter) on account of what happend to my beer line. I do use it on non-porous stuff like kegs and carboys. Any other pearls of wisdom? Adam Wead (Bloomington, IN) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 10:57:23 -0500 From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com> Subject: Re: Mark's Newbie questions Mark had some newbie questions to which there have been many great and straightforward answers. I am just going to toss in my $0.02 (why did IBM ever drop the cent symbol from the PC keyboard) on a couple of items. I gave up boiling bottle caps when I noticed rust on the edges. I also found I had to wait a bit until they cooled. I just put all that I plan to use plus a few extra in a stainer and dunk in Iodaphor, shake to dislodge air pockets, let it sit a couple of minutes, take out and shake to drain. I have never made labels for bottles. I typically buy plain caps and use a Sharpie to write a letter code on the top. FLP for the Fuller's London Pride clone I just made, P for porter, S for stout, K for kolsch, etc. I typically do not have more than one of any style at a time. I include the code in my ProMash notes for the batch. Once the Sharpie ink dries, it doesn't come off. Probably why they call it a permanent marker. I have also recently gotten into the habit of tossing a note in the case with the brew name, OG, FG, IBU, ABV and date brewed. Last night I made a little table in Word with all this info and printed it out to tape on my Tap-A-Draft kegs and put in the case. The table is about 2"x2" after trimming. Nothing fancy. I recently added a spigot to my bottling bucket which has made that step much easier. No more trying to juggle starting a siphon and depress the bottle filler tip at the same time. I typically sanitize a tall glass to use for getting the line purged. The clear glass lets me see what's happening so I do not waste too much beer. I also get a taste test when I am done. The biggest improvement to my brews has been the full boil. I got one of the old SABCO beer keg cookers and their safety burner. Watch if you use a beer keg for boiling as it has a chine to protect the lower dome and let the thing sit flat. Some cookers will not let the chine sit completely on the burner but a flat bottomed pot would be fine. The SABCO cooker uses spokes as the supporting means so the keg sits flat. Five or more gallons of spilled boiling wort is DANGEROUS not to mention sad!. (NAYY) To all: BTW my SABCO beer keg cooker only has a half coupling on its drain port. After a lot of staring at it and thought, I came up with a way to attach a valve outside and a siphon on the inside using the half coupling. Let me know if you want the secret. - -- Take care, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 09:11:16 -0800 (PST) From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> Subject: Keg descriptions >I am currently trying to acquire some kegs, for both serving and to convert >into pots, HLTs, mash tuns, etc.. I have access to an experienced welder. >Cornelius kegs (soda kegs) - come in 3, 5, 10 gal varieties - pin-lock or >ball-lock, used for serving, conditioning, fermenting. What kind of >conversions can be performed on them? The pin-lock and ball-lock valves can be removed. They are threaded, and you can install the other type valve yourself. I suggest you want to choose the valve type you want and make everything you have the same. If you frequently interact with other homebrewers, you might make the same choice they made. Everyone in my club uses ball lock, and we can hook up our kegs to each other's regulators or taps. >Ball tap type - come in half bbl., quarter bbl, sixth bbl - larger ones can >have lids cut off to be converted into kettles, with manifolds and drains >added. >Sankey - come in half bbl., quarter bbl? - two prong tap and wooden bung in >side - Can these be used as a kettle? Sorry, I think you mixed up the names. Hoff-Stevens is the 2 prong tap, and wooden bug on the side. Sankey kegs are usually straight sided, and have a ball in the tap system. Sankey kegs are the one's I frequently see turned into kettles, mash tuns, hot liquor tanks. I think they are all stainless. I once talked to someone at SABCO (http://www.kegs.com/) who said he didn't think there were aluminum kegs on the market. ===== Leo Vitt Rochester MN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 12:27:03 -0400 From: "B.R. Rolya" <br at triagemusic.com> Subject: cider & beer in France Warren writes: > I'm planning to visit Northern France in a few weeks and was >wondering if anybody could make recommendations for things to see that >would be interesting to a brewer or cider maker. I've found quite a bit >of info on French brewing, though I don't know if any of those breweries >offer tours in english. I'm really at a loss for cider info. I know the >French produce great cider in the Normandy area, but how would one find >out more? Any english tours? In Normandy, there is "La Route du Cidre" (Cider Road). I can't remember if I picked up the brochure/map at the French Tourism office in New York or if I got it in Normandy (or, I might be confusing this map with something completely different and perhaps I printed out the map at http://routeducidre.free.fr/ ). In any case, the route is marked by road signs with (appropriately enough) an apple on it and the name of the farm/cidrerie. You can purchase cider (apple & pear), pommeau (an aperitif made from a blend of cider & calvados - highly recommended!), and often calvados at all of the places listed. Some of them are rather fancy and some are tiny family farms with 80 year old farmers reminiscing about the War and pouring very potent calvados in their tasting rooms. As for tours, I think that a few do offer them (I arranged private tours in advance thanks to a contact here in the US) but I'm not certain as to how many speak english (since I speak french I didn't pay attention to that). I would think that the bigger places speak english; it's the smaller ones that you might have problems with. The best thing to do is to go to a tourist office once you are in Normandy. (One place that I'm almost certain does have english tours is Christian Drouin near Deauville.) One producer that I really enjoyed was Etienne Dupont in Victot-Pontfol. His cider is now available in the US and he also makes some wonderful calvados. Many restaurants use cider and calvados in their cooking; it's worth trying those dishes (most of which must contain at least one kilo of butter and/or cream; I think it's the law in Normandy...) As for beer, about 5 years ago, I tried to visit some of the breweries in Northern France but didn't have much luck. Most of the ones that I called seemed very confused as to why someone would want to come and visit, even after I explained that I was visiting from the US, was a homebrewer, etc. The comments ranged from, "We are not brewing today" to "Why?!?" to "No" to "A visit? Of the brewery? But it is too cold in there!" [this was in january]. Others were only open in the summer or for limited hours on the weekends. Another problem was that we weren't planning on renting a car for this part of the trip and many of the breweries are not close to train stations or are only serviced by local lines that run once or twice a day. There was one brewery whose name escapes me at the moment but it's listed in Michael Jackson and is affiliated with a restaurant; they were very friendly and although the brewery was closed for tours at the time, they offered to make a reservation at the restaurant and take the time to talk to us there (unfortunately we weren't able to take them up on their offer so I can't report on the quality of the beer/food). You might have better luck if you check with the tourist office once you are there; I was simply calling from Paris to see if a day trip would be worth it (we ended up taking the train to Lille instead - a small but nice city to visit although the brewpub there, Les 3 Brasseurs, also now with branches in Paris, Strasbourg, and Montreal, is not exceptional). hope this helps! - BR Rolya Malted Barley Appreciation Society NYC http://hbd.org/mbas/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 14:22:15 -0500 From: Wade Hutchison <whutchis at bucknell.edu> Subject: Plating removal on Brass and Counterpressure bottle fillers I'm way behind on my digests, but I thought I'd better chime in here. There is one common chemical out there that can (and will, and has) removed (some of) the plating from a Phils-Philler. Bleach. I used to sanitize my equipment in bleach, and I once soaked my Philler in bleach water (about 1 cap full to the gallon) overnight. In the morning the water had turned greenish, and the plating was missing in a neat rim at the top of the filler. I guess the combination of air, bleach and chrome led to rapid dissolution of the plating and some of the brass/copper underneath. So - be careful with that bleach on plated products. Just an FYI. I still use the Philler, and have no off-flavors that I've noticed. -----wade hutchison whutchis at bucknell.edu Brewing at 41deg 00' N by 76deg 50' W 597.6 Klicks, 101.5 deg. Rennerian Milton, PA 17847 "There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness.'" ~ Dave Barry At 11:11 PM 10/20/2002, you wrote: >Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 17:35:28 -0400 >From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> >Subject: Brass and Counterpressure bottle fillers > >Paul Kensler writes that he believes that his taps are losing chrome plating >to beer exposure. >I discussed this with my plater. He really does not see how this could >happen saying that chrome needs some real vulgar chemicals ( hydrochloric >acid) or electricity to come off. Chrome is electroplated and, unless >anodes are put inside things which is rather difficult and expensive, it >will not plate interior areas. Maybe there is a misperception here that >assumes that the part was chrome plated inside >and out and since the beer is exposed to the inside and there is no chrome >there, the beer removed it when it may have never been there to begin with. > >The plater is going to do a little research to see if there is anything he >can turn up. > >Dan Listermann > >Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com > >Free shipping for orders greater than $35 >and East of the Mighty Miss. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 17:01:04 -0500 From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: Wyeast dutch castle yeast (3822?) Hi all, I recently ordered a packet of this. Anyone have any experience with this seasonal strain? thanks John Misrahi Montreal, Canada Pothole? Thats luxury! I have to ferment directly in my mouth. On brew day I fill up my mouth with wort in the am and drop a few yeast cells in and 3 hours later I swallow. Wish I had a pothole to ferment in. -Mike Brennan on the HBD "Ah, Billy Beer... we elected the wrong Carter." -Homer Simpson Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 19:52:15 -0500 From: Paul Kensler <pkensler at comcast.net> Subject: Spices in AVBC Winter Solstice? Anyone have first-hand knowledge, educated opinions, or WAGs on the spices used in Anderson Valley's Winter Solstice Ale? Does their spice blend change from year to year? The recently released 2002 is the first time I've had it, and I can't quite put my finger on the flavor... Cheers, Paul Kensler Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 21:50:24 -0500 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at houghton.k12.mi.us> Subject: yeast types I went through all my Zymurgy's and Brewing Techniques tonight trying to find a certain article on the difference between lager yeasts, but to no avail. There was an article a few years ago in one of those magazines which said that all lager yeasts are divided into two categories. I'm going to guess the names of these categories since I couldn't find the article in question to verify. I believe the two types were Carlsberg and Tuborg. Assuming that is correct, I think it was said that the Carlsberg types threw sulfur during fermentation and the Tuborg types did not. They listed a few of the yeast brands available to homebrewers which were Carlsberg types, but I think they only listed one which was a Tuborg type. What I would like to know is which Wyeast, Brewtek, or White Labs yeasts are Tuborg type lager yeasts. Thanks for any info you can provide. Randy Ricchi Living in the land soon to be the great white north Hancock, Michigan Return to table of contents
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