HOMEBREW Digest #4103 Tue 26 November 2002

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  Ranco dual stage controller (Scott)
  Gaskets for Flip Top Bottle Caps and Carbonation in 2 Liter bottl ("Romanowsky, Paul")
  Teresa ("Beer Phantom")
  Re:  The Trouble with Trub ("Dennis Collins")
  RE: Splitting the brew day (Brian Lundeen)
  Potassium Sorbate ("Eyre")
  minikeg and party pig questions (Robin Griller)
  re: update on Beer Pouches (Robert Marshall)
  Meadllennium VI ("Howard & Patty Curran")
  couple quick ones on using a SS kettle for a mash tun ("Parker Dutro")
  First All Grain ("Byron's Yahoo Account")
  orval (Jim Liddil)
  PranQster Golden Ale (Craig Agnor)
  Hotmail woes (Pat Babcock)
  Botchard (Eric Harding)
  Re: The Trouble With Trub (David Towson)
  RE: Water analysis for Pickerington Ohio? (=?iso-8859-1?q?greg?=)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 21:41:15 -0800 From: Scott <sejose at pacbell.net> Subject: Ranco dual stage controller One can also get this item here: http://diyreef.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=30 Scott Jose Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 10:02:23 -0500 From: "Romanowsky, Paul" <paul.romanowsky at siemens.com> Subject: Gaskets for Flip Top Bottle Caps and Carbonation in 2 Liter bottl I recently acquired a case of some "Leikeim" brand beer, (German brewery, at a benefit auction. Included in the case are their Pilsner, their Wheat, and a beer they label as "German Black Beer" which I assume is a Stout. In addition to the case of 11.2 OZ. bottles I also have a 2 Liter Magnum bottle of the Pilsner. ALL bottles have the Flip Top Bottle Caps. These bottles will get filled again with some good homebrew once I enjoy the original contents. I have two questions for you all. 1. Will I have to replace the rubber gasket on the caps every time I re-bottle or are these gaskets reusable? If they are reusable: for how many times and how do you know when to replace. 2. Until now I have just bottled in the normal 12 OZ. bottles. This 2 Liter Magnum bottle is 67.2 OZ, (I believe). Can I re-bottle with homebrew and expect to get correct carbonation in it??? I found the below link for info on the Leikeim Brewery. Have sampled one bottle of the Pilsner so far and enjoyed it very much. Has anyone else out their sampled their beer and if so what is your rating of it? http://www.leikeim.de/NeueSeiten/EnglIntro.html Thanks in advance. Paul R. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 09:08:05 -0600 From: "Beer Phantom" <beer_phantom at hotmail.com> Subject: Teresa Ever since Teresa began posting to HBD I've eagerly awaited her posts each day. I've never before seen a woman actually get excited about homebrewing much less beer in any form. Teresa, if you own a sporting goods store, will you marry me? Anxious in anonimity, The Beer Phantom Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 10:21:48 -0500 From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins at drain-all.com> Subject: Re: The Trouble with Trub John Gubbins laments his sink pipe clogging with trub when he rinses out his carboys. Well, if its trub from the primary, there certainly is a lot of it. Perhaps it is just the shear volume of trub that the pipe just gags on. When the time comes to pitch out primary trub, I usually pour it out of the carboy into the toilet and then flush a couple of times. Hey, if the toilet can handle the other "stuff" that goes down it, it can certainly handle a carboy's worth of trub. I would be hesitant to do this if you have a septic tank, I have no idea how a big slug of yeast would affect it, but if you are on a sewer system, flush away. Once you have dumped the bulk of the trub, your sink should easily handle the dregs that are left over. Dennis Collins Knoxville, TN http://sdcollins.home.mindspring.com "In theory, theory and practice are the same, but not in practice". Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 09:27:04 -0600 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: Splitting the brew day Steve Tighe writes: > Anyhow, when I decided to try this, I concluded that when the > runoff is > complete the wort most likely IS infected, since I haven't sanitized > anything to that point, and doesn't grain tend to be loaded with > lactobacillus or some related bug? I can't comment on whether or not this is correct, or whether what I am proposing will even work (since I don't do the two-day brew thing). However, in the interests of having homebrewers become more like commercial brewers by adding lots of chemicals to their beers,... Winemakers use an enzyme called lysozyme (I buy the brand Inovapure) to kill or maim lactobacilli in their musts, to keep unwanted malolactics or other infections from afflicting their wines. See http://www.lysozyme.com/Products/inovapurewine03-27-02.PDF Now, they don't talk about its use in beer, but they do note that its activity increases with pH, so it should work even better (gram for gram) in beer than in wine. I use 5 grams per 5 gallons in wine for inhibitory action, likely less would be needed in a batch of wort, although how much less is left as an exercise for the reader. Note that being an enzyme, it would likely be best to let the wort cool to room temp or so before adding. Inovapure can be bought at The Wine Lab in the US http://www.thewinelab.com and Bosa Grape and Juice in Canada http://www.bosagrape.com/ and probably other places I don't know about. I have added lysozyme to my worts in the past (more to quelch the paranoia triggered in me by all the anti-syphon sucking people, than to prevent any souring in my mash runoff) and have not noticed any sensory defects I could conclusively attribute to my enzyme addition instead of just my poor brewing skills. So, something for the two-day brewers to play with, if they so choose. Cheers Brian Lundeen Brewing at [819 miles, 313.8 deg] aka Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 11:07:55 -0500 From: "Eyre" <meyre at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Potassium Sorbate Hi all, new to brewing and also to this list.. very good material in here for new people, thanks! So far, I've made 2 batches of beer, a pale and a dark out of a kit that my wife got me for Christmas a year ago.. one of which came out poor, and the other of which came of great.. and I guess that's the learning curve in effect. Anyhow, for my question; right now I've got a Cider fermenting happily away in the carboy (how long is that thing gonna bubble, anyhow? Wow!), and if everythihng turns out well, I'd like to do another in the near future for longer term storage. On my side of the US, the apples this year were in short supply, and fresh cider is hard to find.. I did just find a new supplier, but I see Potassium Sorbate as listed as one of it's 2 or 3 ingredients.. is that a preservative? I think is it, and that would make it unsuitable for my needs, correct? On another note, with the two previously mentioned batches I've made, my first batch had almost no, if not absolutely no carbonation.. and my second batch seems to be better, but it's far from 100% on all bottles.. I was hit and miss about 50% of the time on the first 10 or so bottles, but now they all seem to be pretty lightly carbonated. I thought I followed all the steps well (I've read and memorized Papazians book, and also Palmers online instructional as well..) and cleaned and was pretty thurough in all respects, but I guess I missed somewhere along the way. Any suggestions on what to pay particular attntion to in the future regards carbonation? Lastly, short and sweet, what would a good bet on the leading cause of a metallic aftertaste be caused by? My first batch is plagued by that, and is now not worth drinking because of such.. Thank you! meyre at sbcglobal.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 10:56:48 -0500 From: Robin Griller <rgriller at chass.utoronto.ca> Subject: minikeg and party pig questions Hi all, I've gotten my hands on a couple of minikegs and a friend has received a couple of party pigs. I have a couple of questions: -if I'm happy to use the minikegs with just air, are the pull out and rotate tap and the turn and let air in bung thing functional for reusing? My bet is that the tap would be ok, but that the top bung and plastic attachment wouldn't last...So, my question then is: why not just use the rotating tap thing and a normal rubber bung in the top. When the flow stops, just crack the bung to let air in? I know the beer won't last, but if the intent is to use it as a real ale cask and drink the beer in an evening or two is there any reason to buy those expensive tap things? -party pig: I remember reading somewhere about a party pig conversion that allows you to use it with a gas tank and avoid the silly expensive bladder things. Someone over on the brewing list forwarded me a photo of a converted pig, but I haven't been able to find instructions for doing the conversion. Anyone here done it? Anyone have a plan? thanks! Robin Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 09:29:53 -0800 (PST) From: Robert Marshall <robertjm1 at yahoo.com> Subject: re: update on Beer Pouches Those things certainly look like Wyeast Labs yeast containers! Robert - --------------------------- Jeff wrote: I brought home the Backpacker Magazine from work today so I could provide more info. I still have not heard directly from the company and the email I sent to them but here's the short article... Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 13:12:15 -0500 From: "Howard & Patty Curran" <OCurrans at cfl.rr.com> Subject: Meadllennium VI Meadllennium VI is just around the corner. This will be the first mead-only competition of 2003 and is one of the Premier Mead Only Competitions in the United States. This event is sponsored by the Central Florida Home Brewers (the same club that puts on the Sunshine Challenge in May each year, which is the largest homebrew competition East of the Mississippi.) Entry procedures have been streamlined to make entering the competition as easy as possible. You can now enter Meadllennium VI online. From the online entry form you can print the required forms, and electronically submit them to the tabulation team. Now you can pay your entry fees online and get a $1 per-entry discount! You can even use your credit card. At a minimum, awards will be made for suitable 1st, 2nd and 3rd places in each category. Additionally, an award will be given for Best of Show and to the Club with the most points (the host club, the CFHB, is excluded from this award.) Beautiful etched glasses will be awarded again this year. This competition is registered and sanctioned through the BJCP. Judging will be Saturday, January 25, 2003, and all entries are due no later than Tuesday, January 21, 2003. Entry fee is $6.00 and will consist of 3 bottles, 6 oz. or greater. You can pay your entry fees online and get a $1 per-entry discount! Mail your entries to: Meadllennium VI c/o Rockey Markham 2247 King John Court Winter Park, FL 32792 The following styles will be judged and follow the BJCP Style Guidelines, Category 25, Mead Subcategories A-H. See: http://www.bjcp.org/styleguide25.html A. Traditional Mead B. Varietal Honey Traditional Mead C. Cyser (Apple Melomel) D. Pyment (Grape Melomel) E. Other Fruit Melomel F. Metheglin (spices and/or herbs) G. Braggot H. Mixed Category Mead (combines ingredients from two or more of the other mead sub-categories) More information and the downloadable forms can be found at the Central Florida Home Brewers site. Go to: http://www.cfhb.org/mead6.html or E-Mail the Meadllennium competition team at: mead at cfhb.org. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 12:29:41 -0800 From: "Parker Dutro" <ezekiel128 at edwardwadsworth.com> Subject: couple quick ones on using a SS kettle for a mash tun I have been looking into a weld-be-gone kettle spigot, and I plan on purchasing one so if anyone can give me a good reason why I shouldn't that would be appreciated. But beyond that, if I am using my 68 or 34 quart ss kettles for mashing and boiling, how should I keep the thing at a steady temp for the conversion period? I am brainstorming my options and I can think either I need to keep it on the burner and manually maintain the temp> (don't like that idea, means greater chances for hot and cold spots) or maybe constructing an insulated box with the dimensions cut just right for the kettle to slide in. I imagine if I used extruded polystyrene or some other dense R valued material it could be a very efficient temp maintainer. Anyone using a similar set up that can make suggestions? What works, what doesn't? My other question is about drilling the SS wall of my kettle. How many have done this successfully? Is it a huge investment just for tools, or is there a poor mans method? Any advice is helpful. Parker Dutro P-town, OR Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 12:33:47 -0800 (PST) From: "Byron's Yahoo Account" <btowles at yahoo.com> Subject: First All Grain HBD'ers, Well, I brewed my first all grain batch this past Sunday. It was a 10 gallon recipe for an American Pale Ale. The all-grain portion went off without a hitch, however I did hit a snag using fresh hops without a hop bag when I was siphoning off the cooled wort into the fermentors. I ended up with a 1.054 OG, with the IBU's calculated (by Promash, NAYY) to be 41. I DID manage to get a little screwy with my yeast starter, but it all seems to be ok, as my carboys were chiming loudly this morning as I got ready for work. Anyway, thanks to all who replied (on and off list) to my questions for a good starter all-grain style. I'll keep you informed as to the FG and taste specifics. Now to get my "new to me" Corny's and CO2 set up for kegging, which will also be a first time experience. Again, thanks to all who responded. Byron Towles Member of the Crescent City Homebrewers, New Orleans, LA http://hbd.org/crescent [922.5, 204.2] ===== - --------------------------------------------- The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity. - --------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:28:01 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at VMS.ARIZONA.EDU> Subject: orval Orval has brett in the bottle and this is certainly going to have an effect on the flavor. I have my doubts that ahving a primary yeast is going to really allow one to truely mimic the flavor. But might as well try. WRT to yeast freshness this is hard to prove with out some variouus lab equipment. Define "fresh" Jim Liddil North Haven, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 13:58:02 -0800 (PST) From: Craig Agnor <cagnor at emerald.ucsc.edu> Subject: PranQster Golden Ale Howdy, I've recently discoverd the PranQster Belgian Style Golden Ale from North Coast Brewing Co. of Fort Bragg, CA at my local liquor store. This fabulous beer comes in a 4-pack of 12-oz. bottles for the bargain price of $6 and is bottle conditioned. I'm preparing to start brewing a few belgian ales and have a few questions about the yeast used to ferment this beer. Before I get to the questions, here's the description of PranQster from the NCBC web site. "... PranQster follows in this tradition using a mixed culture of antique yeast strains that results in a floral nose, a full fruity flavor and a clean finish. It's a deceptive 6.9% alcohol and should be enjoyed with a full head." PranQster STYLE Belgian Style Golden Ale AVAILABILITY Year Round COLOR Soft Gold ORIGINAL GRAVITY 1.070 And now for the questions. Has anyone tried brewing with the yeast from the PranQster bottle? Is the yeast in the bottle one of the Belgian strains used in the primary fermentation of the beer? Does anyone know if the belgian yeast used in PranQster is one of the strains available from Wyeast or White Labs? Cheers, Craig Agnor Santa Cruz, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 18:14:46 -0500 (EST) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Hotmail woes Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... To those bemoaning the loss of the Digest to Hotmail accounts: each and every hotmail address began bouncing last week. This normally causes the automation to delete the subscriptions, except that there were several hundred, so the automation instead flagged it to me. After several more days of bounces to hotmail, I let the automation delete the bad addresses to save overhead of processing hunbreds of daily bounce messages. If you are no longer receiving the Digest, and are on hotmail, please resubscribe by sending the word "subscribe" to req at hbd.org. Make sure you are using the account you wish to have subscribed as the server will only subscribe the address in the "From:" field of your mail headers. If, after resubscribing, you are still not receiving the HBD, complain to the Hotmail admin (usually admin at hotmail.com) that mail to you from the hbd.org domain is not reaching you, but is being bounced at their end. Thought I think what is happening on hotmail is simply a failure within that domain, there could be another cause as well. Read on... Sometimes people who subscribe to the HBD later cannot fathom how to unsubscribe (though it is in each and every Digest header, in the help request reply, and is readily available in the FAQ at http://hbd.org...). Instead of either finding out how to unsubscribe or contacting the Digest janitors for help, these feckless boobs instead report the HBD as spam to their ISPs and to spam control services in order to block the mail from their accounts. Unfortunately, when an ISP takes them seriously and blocks the mail, they block it for the entire domain. Also, many domains use those "spam registries" to control the flow of mail into and out of their domains - once you're on those lists, it can be dagnabbit difficult to get back off. The point here is: if you are receiving the Digest, but don't want to, remember two things: (a) you subscribed and (b) you can unsubscribe. If your attempts to unsubscribe fail, WRITE A NOTE TO THE JANITORS!!! Many times, your email address changes without your knowledge (where ISPs include hostnames in the domain portion of your address, for instance), or you changed the way your real or nickname is represented in your "from" address. Either of these ocurrences will cause the automation to fail. PANIC NOT, LEST THE GODS OF BREWING LET THE BYPRODUCTS OF THEIR BEER ENJOYMENT DRIBBLE ABOUT THINE HEAD AND SHOULDERS! Simply pop a note to janitor@hbd.org stating that you tried to unsubscribe, but couldn't, and we'll happily hunt your address down and remove it from the list. That is all... - -- - God bless America! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock [18, 92.1] Rennerian "I don't want a pickle. I just wanna ride on my motorsickle" - Arlo Guthrie Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:45:48 -0800 (PST) From: Eric Harding <eharding at termonn.ca> Subject: Botchard Does anyone know the etymology of \"botchard?\" I recently made the recipe from a CJJ Berry book and was curious. It strikes me as a strange, somewhat bastardized word. Any connection, perhaps, with the name \"Bouchard\"? Thanks to all. Eric Harding Keats Island, BC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 19:04:07 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: The Trouble With Trub In HBD 4102, John Gubbins described a problem with drain clogging. I very much doubt that residue from fermentation is clogging a drain all by itself. I think it much more likely that there is some object lodged in the drain pipe that is serving as a collection point for whatever else goes down the drain. If this object is plastic, wood or metal, then ordinary drain cleaning chemicals are not going to remove it. Since the piping appears from your description to be accessible, I suggest you disassemble it as needed to find the object and remove it. Dave Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 01:58:17 +0000 (GMT) From: =?iso-8859-1?q?greg?= <invalid76 at yahoo.co.uk> Subject: RE: Water analysis for Pickerington Ohio? wow, small world. i live in Pataskala. i know this doesn't have anything to do with the water, but shoot me an email if you'd like to trade homebrew/recipes. greg, invalid76 at yahoo.co.uk Return to table of contents
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