HOMEBREW Digest #4124 Fri 20 December 2002

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Re: Grains of Paradise ("Ken Taborek")
  re: WL vs Wyeast & others (Andrew Larkin)
  Saflager23/Safale04/Safbrew33 ("Mark Kellums")
  Boil Temperature Seals (Andrew Larkin)
  RE: Brewing as a profession ("Boris")
  OT: Hamfests, not just for hams anymore (Mark Kempisty)
  Saflager ("Houseman, David L")
  Brewing as a Job ("Dan Listermann")
  Saf* yeasts ("Drew Avis")
  Re: Lifting 5 Gal into Chest Freezer (Denny Conn)
  Re: OxyClean (Denny Conn)
  Re: Water results.. (Rama Roberts)
  hop utilization, Designing Great Beers ("dave holt")
  Electric Kettles Scorching (Ronald La Borde)
  magnetic stir bar ("Steve Funk")
  Ayinger yeast (Jeff Renner)
  How Crappy Is Corona? (Jennifer/Nathan Hall)
  RE: Gluing Acrylic (Bob Sheck)

* * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * http://www.cafeshops.com/hbdstore * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 01:01:54 -0500 From: "Ken Taborek" <Ken.Taborek at verizon.net> Subject: Re: Grains of Paradise > Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 10:41:55 -0500 > From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> > Subject: Re: Grains of Paradise [snipped] > Thanks to Jeff Renner for answering my query concerning grains of > paradise. I have been curious to try this spice ever since I > learned about > it while perusing recipes a couple weeks ago. Where do you get it, Jeff? > > Dave in Bel Air, MD Dave, I can't speak for where Jeff got his GoP, but being in Bel Air you're not far from where I bought mine, at Maryland Homebrew (www.mdhb.com). HTH. - -- Cheers, Ken Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 23:16:20 -0800 (PST) From: Andrew Larkin <aj_larkin at yahoo.com> Subject: re: WL vs Wyeast & others What problems have folks had with Wyeast 1968? Poor attenuation, or something worse? They say this is a great yeast to use for bottle conditioned ales because the beer will clear well in the bottle and the yeast will stick to the bottom making it easy to pour. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 01:19:27 -0600 From: "Mark Kellums" <infidel at springnet1.com> Subject: Saflager23/Safale04/Safbrew33 Does anyone have a description of the two SafLager dry yeasts re flavor & performance ? -S Steve, I've tried the Saflager 23 in three beers at room temps and found it to make a very nice ale. IMO it has a soft fruitiness and all three beers turned out very well. I've used the Safale 04 several times as well. It floccs well, is unattenuative and malty. It reminds me of Wyeast 1968. I've used the Safbrew 33 once in a blonde ale fermented at 78 degrees. At that temp it was extremely fruity like pineapple/grapefruit but not unpleasant. It took two months in the fridge for the fruitiness to calm down. As often happens the last two glasses were fantastic. It floccs very slowly. I'll have to try this one again at a lower temperature. Mark Kellums Decatur Il. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 23:22:31 -0800 (PST) From: Andrew Larkin <aj_larkin at yahoo.com> Subject: Boil Temperature Seals Visit page 3181 of the Mcmaster Carr catalog (www.mcmastercarr.com). It has a table of properties of o-ring materials including compression set, resistance to cold water, hot water, steam, acids, etc. For hot water it looks like teflon, EPDM, and silicone are a good bet. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:34:43 +0100 From: "Boris" <deMesones at terra.es> Subject: RE: Brewing as a profession Many articles have been written about this issue in the HBD recently but, as far as I understand, non of the authors have followed the professional brewing path. In the Australian homebrewers forum somebody just asked directly: >Interested in getting some feedback from list members who are >commercial brewers or considering entering the industry. I thought maybe it would be good to write what I did to enter the industry to help others to make and take their own decisions. I am a Spaniard born in Madrid, I got a MSc in Economics in a Spanish university and an MBA in an English university. I was working in the city of London, initially as a banking systems broker and later as a programmer of financial software packages. My salary was 6 figures in Euros. But I did not like my job, it did not fulfil my expectances, it had nothing special and exciting. In England I discovered the brewpub industry, bought my first home brewing kit and in a few weeks I built my first full mash brewery at home. One day, I thought -that is the way to go- I quit my job, I sold my house and sent an application form to the German brewing school in Berlin, VLB. I was accepted. Off course, most of the people thought I was crazy, but I knew they were just slaves of their own jobs and were not brave enough to take a decision like mine. Internally they would like but externally they found lots of excuses to convince themselves they were right in not doing anything (no nothing, as usual). I spent almost two years in Germany from 1997 until 1999. First I got my degree, second I worked in two brewpubs in Berlin. One with an east German brewer and another one with a west German brewer. Very interesting were the different points of view of both brewers, in relation to brewing and in relation to society and culture. After spending, probably the two most interesting years of my life in Berlin, I came back to Madrid with the idea of setting up my own brewpub. Initially I thought it would be good to find some investors to help me out with the capital. I found them, but they had lots of ideas which were not very similar to mines, and they had no idea and no passion about brewing. I said no to their demands. I decided to build myself the brewery for a low cost to avoid any other people taking decisions in my own business. I attended a stainless steel 5 month welding course and built a 60 liters home brewery. Later I made the design of a 600 liters brewery and began to build it recently. Five months ago a businessman, who has a chain of 7 brewpubs around Spain called me an offered me a job as head brewmaster. I told him -I accept, but I will still build my own brewery-. He replied - I do not have any problem about it, maybe I can help you in the future- So . I accepted the job, I control the brewing operations of the 7 brewpubs, train their brewers, taste all the beers, speak with the women of the specialised press (hei . they are usually all women !), go to radio stations, go to regional TV. Spend lots of time speaking with would be potential homebrewers at the brewpubs. I brew what ever I want as long as I keep the two main brews, a lager and an alt. I believe it is the best job in the world. The salary is not the same as before, but who cares, now I am happy and before I was not. Now I have lots of time to do what I like and before I had not. Now I live at home in Spain and before I did not. Somebody wrote in the HBD recently about the worst aspects about professional brewing, without any positive one, so, I will not write about them. I just ask you -make a list of the worst aspects of your own job, and maybe the list could be longer-. I expect to have my own small brewpub in one year time with an investment of 120.000 Euros. Do not think is impossible, I am almost there! It is a question of doing yourself almost everything. Maybe somebody will think I have lots of money. I have not. If somebody wants information about brewing schools, I publish a web page in Spanish language at cerveceria.info were you can find at the bottom-left links to many schools under the title -escuelas de cerveceros-. A small scale brewing manual is included and you can subscribe for free to a weekly newsletter as well, both written in Spanish language. In Spain we have a say - Valor y al toro ! It is used in bullfighting and means more or less - Courage and go for the bull ! Hope my broken English was understandable. This article goes to the HBD and Australian forum. If you come to Madrid . dont forget to drop me an email. Salud ! y hasta la vista. Boris de Mesones Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 07:32:57 -0500 From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com> Subject: OT: Hamfests, not just for hams anymore Dave Holt mentions he got his pump at a hamfest. To the uninitiated a hamfest is an Amateur Radio flea market typically sponsored by a local Amateur Radio club to help with their finances. You can find all sorts of goodies but radio and non-radio related. I have found one or two items I use for brewing at them. You can search the web to see if there are any Amateur Radio clubs in your area or go to www.arrl.org. A typical $5 to $10 admission (cheaper than most computer shows) is all that is asked. If you have stuff you would like to sell (and it doesn't have to be radios), you can get a tailgater or an indoor spot at many locations. For those in the Philadelphia area, the Warminster Amateur Radio Club will be holding its annual hamfest on Sunday May 4th , 2003 at the Middletown Grange Fairgrounds, Wrightstown, PA. It will open at 7 A.M. (Vendors at 6 A.M.) More information is available at http://www.k3dn.org/hamfest.htm. All are welcome to attend. If you have ever wanted to become a Amateur Radio operator, it is now easier than ever. Morse code is no longer required for the entry level license and higher level licenses only require 5 words per minute (which anyone can learn in a week). The Volunteer Examiner Program means you do not have to trek to the FCC field office but can take them locally, even in your home if circumstances require it. Take care & 73, Mark Kempisty N3GNW & Homebrewer President Warminster Amateur Radio Club www.k3dn.org Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 08:47:58 -0500 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: Saflager Steve asks "Does anyone have a description of the two SafLager dry yeasts re flavor & performance?" I do have experience with Saflager S-23. I haven't tried the other. From my expience this is a very clean yeast. At lager fermentation temperatures (45-50oF) it produced a clean, maltly result. I use this in a number of lager styles, last with CAPs. I have also used this yeast at ale temperatures (65oF) with good results as well. The resulting cream ale was slightly fruity but with no off flavors. I made essentially a CAP wort and fermented 10 gallons at 65oF. Five gallons used Saflager S-23 while the other 5 gallons used Safale. Both were kegged and lagered at 34oF. Both resulted in very drinkable beers. The Saflager yielded a cream ale that was more commercial cream ale-like with a cleaner flavor and aroma while the Safale was indeed more ale-like with more esters. Neither had phenolics or excess diacetyl. Although I fined both with gelatin, there was still a slight chill haze. While I like and have used both White Labs and Wyeast products, with our local store closing, it's more convenient to keep dry yeast on hand for that spur-of-the-moment brewing. I recommend Saflager as an alternative to the liquid yeasts, but experiment on which styles it yields the best results for you. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 08:56:42 -0500 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: Brewing as a Job "greg man" <dropthebeer at hotmail.com> writes: <I agree that it is a risky business to start especially a brewpub because <first you have to have a successful restaurant, an that's hard to start as <well. I have come to question this bit of conventional wisdom. Restaurants have a horrible failure rate. The bet with a brewpub is that the beer will increase traffic enough to increase the odds of survival while paying for the brewhouse. It is my belief that restaurant biz is too fickle for this strategy to work reliably. Starting a restaurant is a huge undertaking and operating it is still another. I believe that the corner bar that brews its own beer has a good future, especially an established bar. Bars generally have a better survival rate than restaurants if the urge to be hyper trendy is resisted. Go to your neighborhood bar and think "how would this place do if the bartender brewed the beer and it only cost about $20 a keg to produce?" Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Free shipping for orders greater than $35 and East of the Mighty Miss. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 10:34:15 -0500 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: Saf* yeasts Steve Alexander asks: > Does anyone have a description of the two SafLager dry yeasts re flavor & performance ? I've been using the DCL dried yeasts ever since Paddock Wood started carrying them (1.5 years ago?), and the guys in the local club have become addicted to the stuff (almost as much as they're addicted to beer...) There are three lager strains we've tried: S-23, S-189 and S34/70, as well as K-97, T-58, S-33, and (of course) S-04. S-04 first: this is a fabulous ale yeast, very vigorous, highly flocculent. When I first used it I compared it to WY1968 on RCB, due to how quickly it drops out, and the nice malty beer it produces. Several other brewers have tried it and consider it closer to a London strain (WY1028). S-23: a fairly neutral, forgiving lager yeast, though I've found it's a bit fruity, especially at higher gravities. S-189: an excellent lager strain, perhaps comparable to the Munich lager strain. A local guy uses it at higher temps (60-65) with good results. Much less fruity than S-23. Ferments well at 48F S-34/70: my favourite of the three lagers, excellent for lighter lagers, CAPs, etc, anything where you want the hops to stand out. It produces a very balanced, delicate beer. The DCL site says this is the Weihenstephan 34/70 strain, which would be WY2206. Ferments well at 46-48F. These three need to be pitched big. I know DCL makes the S-04 and S-23 in 11gr packs. PW re-packs the 34/70 and S-189 in 20 gr packs, which seems like a more reasonable amount for 5 gal batches. I recently tried Alan McKay's koelschy made w/ K-97, and it was fabulous. This is a very clean, very slightly fruity ale yeast, perhaps best compared with WY1007. The T-58 is spicy (clovey, a bit of banana, though not much) - I've used it to make hefeweisen, and tasted a couple of very nice wits made with it by other brewers. Not sure what WY this would compare to, as I've only used 3944, and it's similar but not the same. Finally, S-33 - I've never used it, but it's not getting great reviews around here. It seems to have a slightly funky flavour, and takes forever to flocculate. So there you go, Steve, and I guess my answer to your "Which do you prefer, Wyeast or White Labs" question would be: neither! I prefer DCL. Cheers! Drew Avis, Merrickville, Ontario ~ http://www.strangebrew.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 08:49:40 -0800 From: Denny Conn <denny at projectoneaudio.com> Subject: Re: Lifting 5 Gal into Chest Freezer Victor, I recently picked up a WortWizard (www.wortwizard.com) to move my wort from the kettle to the fermenter. It's a water powered venturi pump system. It has a 4 ft. head, so it should be able to do what you need. I've been extremely pleased with mine, and found the manufactures, Island Brewing Products, to be quick, helpful, and friendly. Best of all, it's only $23.95...a lot less than the pump I was thinking of buying! Check out the website and email them if you have any questions. ------------->Denny Conn At 12:40 AM 12/18/02 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 07:45:29 -0700 >From: Victor.E.Franklin at bankofamerica.com >Subject: Lifting 5 Gal into Chest Freezer > > > >I have been considering getting a chest freezer to do my fermenting/ >laagering in (Phoenix is hot in the summer), but I started thinking; How the >heck am I gonna lift 5 gallons of wort into a chest freezer? (bad >shoulders). >Should I use one of the pumps that has been mentioned in earlier posts? I >can't really think of any other way... > > >Victor Franklin Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 08:53:02 -0800 From: Denny Conn <denny at projectoneaudio.com> Subject: Re: OxyClean Well, Joe, there's not much to it...you add a couple scoops of Oxyclean to your carboy, fill it with warm water, wait a little while, and it's clean. I've been using Oxyclean to clean carboys and kegs for the last couple years..works great and it's fairly inexpensive. ------------------>Denny Conn At 12:40 AM 12/18/02 -0500, you wrote: >------------------------------ > >Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 12:19:08 -0500 >From: "Joe Stump" <joestump at adelphia.net> >Subject: OxyClean > >Does anyone have any information on cleaning carboys and such with OxyClean? > > > Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:49:45 -0800 (PST) From: Rama Roberts <rama at retro.eng.sun.com> Subject: Re: Water results.. >These are the water test results I just found while rummaging around in the >files here at the homestead.. are these of any use to me? Anything pop out >as being undesirable or outright "bad" that I should take care of, from a >beer making standpoint? > >PH: 7.78 >Turbidity: 1.7 >Chlorine Residual: ND > >Nitrite N: <.05 >Nitrate N: .42 >Iron: .05 >Manganese: ND >Sulfate: 5 >Sodium: 13 >Hardness: 44 >Chloride 2 Assuming those numbers are measured as PPM, I think you're low on some critical ions. I'll defer to the resident water chemists like AJ, but I'd start with adding some Calcium Sulfate (gypsum) to bump up the calcium and sulfate. Check out the sections on water reports and brewing water adjustment on John Palmer's site: http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-1.html - --rama Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:57:18 -0700 From: "dave holt" <brewdave at hotmail.com> Subject: hop utilization, Designing Great Beers I've have greatly increased my brewing library in the quest of beer education. Thanks to those here for the recommendations. I've been reading Ray Daniel's book "Designing Great Beer" lately. A warm up before I tackle textbooks like DeClerck. Anyway, IMHO an enjoyable book. In Chapter 9, Hops and Hops Bitterness, there is a statement that needs expanded a little bit for me. Pg 78 talks about there are a number of factors that can affect hop utilization that are related to kettle boil. The statement is; "...because water boils at a lower temperature at higher elevation, altitude must be considered if you are brewing above 3000 feet or so." No further explanation is given. I'm familiar with Arrhenius Equation and the relationship between temperature and rate of reaction. I'm guessing that at higher altitude, the lower boiling temp means slower isomerization of the alpha acids. Which in turn means, a longer boil is needed to achieve the same IBUs as compared to altitudes below 3000 ft. Is this a reasonable assumption? The next question is how much should I adjust the boil time if this is correct. I guess I could crunch numbers through Arrhenius Equation for 212 F and the boiling temp at altitude and come up with an 'adjustment factor' for boiling time. If Ray Daniels is still around, I would like to hear his thoughts on this and/or point me to some references. Why this is of interest to me, is that I brew at approx. 1000 ft elevation in the Phoenix area and at 7800 ft in Northern Arizona. Never thought about hop utilization being affected by altitude before reading this book. Dave Holt Chandler, AZ Forest Lakes, AZ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:25:28 -0800 (PST) From: Ronald La Borde <pivoron at yahoo.com> Subject: Electric Kettles Scorching Several people have been asking about using the high density 4500 watt elements in the kettle. The concern seems to be about scorching. I can tell you that there is no need to worry - fear not! With the 4500 watt element on 240 volts, there is no scorching with even the cheapest high density water heater type element. I am using a PWM controller to tame the boil once it starts. Without the controller, the wort literally trys to jump out of the kettle! I have brewed Pilsners, Wheat beers, and such with absolutelly no scorching. The secret here is that the element is IN THE WORT all the time. With the RIMS element in a small chamber type of heating equipment, here scorching is a real problem because wort flow through the heating chamber must continue at all times - this requires that you do not ever have a stuck mash with the element powered on. Does this sound somewhat problematic? One tip, after each brewing session, clean the element in place using TSP, BKF, or something with a plastic scrubby. Wort will leave some deposits on the element and if not cleaned after several brew sessions, a coating will build up and insulate the element from the wort and can actually cause the element to self destruct. How do I know this? I will leave it as an exercise for the imaginative thinkers. ;>)) Happy Brewing ===== Ron Ronald J. La Borde -- Metairie, LA New Orleans is the suburb of Metairie, LA www.hbd.org/rlaborde Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 15:23:13 -0800 From: "Steve Funk" <stevefunk at hotmail.com> Subject: magnetic stir bar Hello hbd group- I use a 10-gal beverage cooler for my HLT/HERM system that is equipped with a heating element. The cooler sits on a 12"x12" magnetic stir plate. I have been using a Teflon coated lab stir bar but it doesn't swirl the column of water very well. I tried looking for a larger stir bar (mine is 2"L x 3/8" dia) and cannot find one outside of the high-priced scientific supply houses. Does anyone know where I can find a large stir bar for a decent price? I have a veterinarian large animal magnet that is about 3" long and 1/2" in dia but it is not Teflon coated. It appears to be made of a metal alloy that doesn't really rust (had it in the garage for a long time). Do any metallurgist types in hbd-land know if using this magnet in my HLT would cause any metal leaching or other problems? Thanks in advance. Cheers, Steve Funk Brewing in the beautiful Columbia River Gorge [1887.2, 290.3] Apparent Rennerian Does this seem correct? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 20:25:51 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Ayinger yeast [This didn't go through the first time, so I'm reposting it. Hope it doesn't appear twice, but the digest haven't been full, so I guess it doesn't really matter. --J] Brewers As many of you know, after something like ten years of supplying slants and yeast culturing equipment, Dan McConnell has shut down his Yeast Culture Kit Co. Among other consequences, this makes the Ayinger lager yeast unavailable commercially. When I heard this, I planned to see if Chris White of WhiteLabs might be interested in carrying it, but Marc Sedam beat me to the punch. It was scheduled to be a Platinum Series yeast for September/October, 2003 with the name of WLP833 Bock Yeast. There has been quite a discussion about this on HBD and Oz CraftBrewing. Some people were lamenting the loss of this great yeast, others thought that no one would recognize it without the Ayinger name, and I received a number of emails to see if I could help folks get slants (I can't - I'm not a yeast rancher). I emailed Chris White telling him of our discussions and encouraging him to consider renaming the yeast. I got a better answer than I had expected: At 6:48 PM -0800 12/18/02, Chris White wrote: >Jeff, > >We are going to make a change and have WLP833 available all year, and make >WLP920 a platinum strain, instead of year round. We are going to have to >reprint some things, but after seeing the interest in this strain, I think >we should make it available. We won't be able to have it by Jan1, but >hopefully by the middle of January. We are currently doing some lab work >and trials with it. I think due to time we will need to keep the German >Bock name, but if you have a better suggestion that doesn't include the >brewery or town, I'd be interested. Thanks for your input, > >Chris How about this, boys and girls? The power of the consumer! It will be available year 'round! Now it's up to us to keep it in the lineup. If people us it, they'll recognize its great quality and versatility. I have sent Chris some name suggestions, and he says he welcomes other suggestions from you all. Post them here and cc me and I'll forward them to him. As I wrote to Chris, I really like this strain. It is very balanced, emphasizing neither malt nor hops. Because of this, it is perhaps not suited to north German dry Pilsners, but I have been very happy with it for all other lagers I've used it for, including Helles, Fest/Marzen, Bock (naturally), all-malt Pilsners and Classic American Pilsners (where I get a crisp, hoppy profile and 80% AA, but the malt still comes through). It has achieved cult status in Australia and North America, and I think it has users in UK, South Africa and Scandinavia as well. A name should, it seems to me, be distinctly German but understandable, and should not imply a certain style of beer. If it could somehow imply its origin, that would be a plus. I had thought there was more than one brewery in Aying, but I now think there is only Ayinger. So references to Aying are clearly out. I have a few thoughts just off the top of my head - South Bavarian (too much like Old Bavarian?), Kellerbier (unfiltered "cellar" beer), Fassbier (draft beer), Altbairisch (I think that only means Old Bavarian, but it is the name of an Ayinger product), Gasthof, Gasthaus, Biergarten, Alpenlager, Oberbayern (Upper Bavaria, the part of Bavaria that Ayinger is in the heart of). One more thing - there is, as far as I know, no supplier of yeast slants now. I asked Chris if he was interested in going into that business. he asked me if that many people bought yeast on slants. I don't know. You all tell him. Cheers Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 20:31:36 -0500 From: Jennifer/Nathan Hall <hallzoo at comcast.net> Subject: How Crappy Is Corona? I've been all grain for five years now, but just recently bought my own bulk grain and a corona mill. Runoff rates and clarity seem the same in my system (gravity operated) as when I used to get my grain milled at the brew shop (A Valley Mill). I'm building a RIMS and was wondering if the corona milled grain will cause the bed to compact beyond the capacity of the standard 1/25 HP centrifugal pump. I know someday I'll be purchasing a proper mill, but for now all available hobby funds are going to RIMS construction. Thanks! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 22:22:37 -0500 From: Bob Sheck <bobsheck at earthlink.net> Subject: RE: Gluing Acrylic Kevin McDonough asked about bonding acrylic: There are several ways to glue acrylic plastic together. This seems like one of the better ways- as it actually fuses acrylic together. It should be as food-safe as the acrylic after it dries <All volatiles have evaporated into your work-space>. http://www.pimprig.com/sections.php?op=viewarticle&artid=71 Another site is: http://www.tapplastics.com/plastics/plasticsinfo/adhesives.html which describes the glue-up process. After reading the Material Safety Datasheets, I think I would be looking for another option for a lid. Of course you want to see all the action going on in there, it's so exciting to watch those enzymes doing their thang~ Bob Sheck // DEA - Down East Alers - Greenville, NC bsheck at earthlink.net // [583.2,140.6] Apparent Rennerian Home Brewing since 1993 // bobsheck at earthlink.net // Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 12/20/02, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96