HOMEBREW Digest #4138 Mon 06 January 2003

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  Help clarify what fraction of starter to pitch. ("Michael J. Westcott")
  RE. Autolysis in secondary (Thomas Rohner)
  Dry Yeast (Thomas Rohner)
  Re: Hop Pellet Degradation (blutick)
  Tripel Stout (darrell.leavitt)
  Beer Consulting ? ("Kenneth Peters")
  Alcohol & Anxiety (David Perez)
  Re: Yeast autolysis in secondary (Jeff Renner)
  RE: Dry yeast is a joke (Donald and Melissa Hellen)
  Re: Hop Pellet Degradation (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Lost brew in the boiler (David Towson)
  Re: Lost Brew in the Boiler (Bob Sheck) (Todd Goodman)
  Re: Direct Fired Mash Tun with a False Bottom (Todd Goodman)
  Re: Dry Yeast is a joke (Bill Wible)
  Source for Saf Lager yeasts in US ("H. Dowda")
  Help, Need Insulating Coating (Not Beer Related) ("Pete Calinski")
  Dry Yeast is a Joke (=?iso-8859-1?q?Ryncd=20Gweyth?=)
  Re: Chronic Anxiety (Joe Murphy)
  reusing yeast,..and yeast count... (darrell.leavitt)
  Re: RO Water ("Asher Reed")
  Don't make this (darrell.leavitt)
  Medicine ("Mike Maag")
  That last bit of kettle wort ("Mike Maag")
  THE BUFFALO THEORY (Pete Limosani)
  Re: Wort Reclamation Survey/Lost Brew in the Boiler ("Greg Collins")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 23:26:39 -0700 From: "Michael J. Westcott" <westy at commspeed.net> Subject: Help clarify what fraction of starter to pitch. I guess I'm looking for some insight as to how much of a starter to pitch and when. I've been making 1 liter starters for some time using Wyeast smack packs or White labs tubes. I usually time the starter to be coming off high krausen on brewday. My usual procedure is to swirl the starter bottle and add the complete contents. Today, I noticed a significant thick yeast sediment in the starter bottle after I had pitched and wondered if I missed an opportunity to have pitched much more yeast. At high krausen or right after, should most of the solution above the yeast be pitched and then all of the sediment swirled with the remaining bottom 1/3 of the wort and then pitched? Is there any problem pitching all of the precipitated yeast? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 12:52:09 +0100 From: Thomas Rohner <t.rohner at bluewin.ch> Subject: RE. Autolysis in secondary Hi Adam if you can lower the temp. to or below 60 F i would not worry. Since you already removed most of the yeast, you should be ok. We leave our beers in the fermenter for 2 weeks, then transfer it to a bottling tank add a maltose solution for carbonation and bottle it. In my beginning years i once had a porter in the secondary for 5 weeks, before i had the time to bottle. I was a great beer. But i already had a temp. controlled freezer then. Thomas Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 13:15:21 +0100 From: Thomas Rohner <t.rohner at bluewin.ch> Subject: Dry Yeast Hi All my first book i read was the "don't worry" one. My first beer was a prehopped kit. But my first yeast was a Wyeast (liquid) as i read in the aforementioned book. Since then i pretty quickly went to allgrain, because i cant get good extracts at a reasonable price around here. I brew 12 gal and had to do stepstarters from small Wyeast smackpacks. Of course i repitched it for 2 or 3 times. But it still is a hassle. I then figured out to brew beers, i can get the yeasties from one of our local breweries. But they all have (decent) bottom fermenters. Then i got a one pound DCL sample. I was amazed how good it was. Since then i even have a dry lager-strain for backup, and brewed a wonderfull double-bock with it. So it may or may not be true, that kits are still shipped with low quality dry yeast. But there certainly are superb dry yeasts around. I tried DCL, but i guess Lallemand and others can do it as well. As Jay wrote, the only limit is choice. But for most HB's pitching rate is more of a problem. And better use a proper amount of rehydrated dry yeast, then a stepped-up infection. Thomas Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 08:27:05 -0600 From: blutick at juno.com Subject: Re: Hop Pellet Degradation Nils Hedglin asked about degradation of hop pellets: >I'm getting ready to do another batch, & was wondering how long hop pellets are >good. I've kept them in the freezer in a vacuum sealed bag (or at least in as much >vacuum as a Foodsaver vacuum sealer can do). Unfortunalely, they are from 5/01 >& 8/01. I've been storing my hops, both pellet and whole, vacuum bagged and frozen ever since my sister gave me a Foodsaver for Christmas about four years ago. Nifty gadget. In my experience, there has been no apparent loss of bittering or aroma with storage times up to two years. Jim Layton Howe, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 09:10:20 -0500 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Tripel Stout Andy; I also like sweet stouts, and this one came out real good to my palate. I called it a "Jelly-Bean Tripel Stout" (sort of stupid name) in that instead of using candi sugar , as a tripel calls for, I used 5 oz of Jelly Beans. I think that if I were to do it again, I'd use the Candi sugar...but my wife was cleaning out our son's room and found a good bag of beans so I thought I'd use them to boost the gravity a bit. I had slurry (belgian and trappist vials) that had been used 2 times already, and wanted to make a tripel...but I also wanted to make it darker and more in the direction of an Imperial Stout,...I suppose that one could call it a Belgian Tripel Stout... ANyway, for what it is worth, here is the recipe: 6lb Canada Maltings 2 row .75 lb Fawcett's Brown Malt 3 lb carapils 1.25 lb Fawcett's Dark Crystal .5 lb Malted Oats .5 lb Special B 2 lb wheat 5 oz Jelly Beans (I'd use double this weight in Belgian Candi sugar if I had it) 1.5 lb Roasted Barley (added when recirculating and sparging began) 1 rest at 158F for about 60 minutes, mashout at about 170F . 2 hour boil, adding about 1/2 cup of Lactose (sugar of milk) near the end. I used 1 oz unknown AA homegrown hops (I assumed about 4.5% per oz) at the start of the last 60 minutes, 1/4 oz of same at 30, 1/4 oz of same at last 15) First runnings were 1.080 boil gravity (with the jelly beans) was 1.061 Original gravity (after 2 hour boil) was 1.070 gravity going into secondary was 1.032 final gravity was the same...(I wanted it to go lower,..but it didn't cooperate) %abv was about 5% I think that , were I to try this again, and I will, I'd use the belgian sugar, and boost the alc content just a tad.... The taste, by the way , is very chocolaty, sweet, yummy. I don't know, but think that that high a final gravity should/ could be a concern, and would welcome comments from others who have some insights into why, with that much good slurry, and keeping the correct fermentation temperatures, it still was so high? Perhaps the amt of carapils, brown, and dark crystal malts added huge unfermentables... Happy Brewing! and a big thanks to the Janitors! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 09:00:18 -0600 From: "Kenneth Peters" <kpeters6 at cox.net> Subject: Beer Consulting ? A post that I recently read in the rec.crafts.brewing newsgroup certainly hit home with me. Among other topics in the post, the author suggested that there was a need for "Beer Consultants" to evaluate beer for a small fee ($5 -$10 per bottle). I forget exactly what prompted his thoughts, but I am located in a remote area and I know from posts I have seen here that there are others who do not have access to local clubs or HBS. I have a great many excellent beer books, but no matter how hard a author may try, I still cannot imagine what certain tastes are like. Al Korzanas tries very hard in his book to illustrate certain tastes via commercial beers, but still the effort falls short. In fact, I don't have access to some of the examples that he sites. What does yeast bite taste like? How about fruity, raisiney esters - this may sound very descriptive but if one has no real-life example to relate to, the concepts are impossible to comprehend. These are concepts that many (most) of you know like the back of your hand. But if you have never had an identifiable experience, then it hard to relate to. How would you explain the taste and heat of a Jalapeno to someone who had never eaten any kind of pepper? Yes, competition results could assist in this arena, but certainly not a well as an always available consultant. I've been brewing for a little over one year now (all grain), and have yet to meet anyone else who is a homebrewer. While most of my beers have been very tasty and I'm mostly very happy with them, I have had some that didn't taste at all like I expected or had a minor off taste from the previous batch. I have no clue as to what these tastes are so how can I discern what action I need to take to correct them? Hit and miss is not a satisfying concept to me. Just because I am my only customer doesn't mean that I don't want to strive to constantly improve my process and my product. I think that this would be a great void for one or more of the mail-order HBS to fill. After all, its people like me who provide a lot of their business. How about it, anyone out there interested in becoming a Beer Consultant? Think about it, I believe this would be a great service to the home community. Thanks, Ken Peters located in remote Oklahoma Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 10:46:22 -0500 From: David Perez <perez at gator.net> Subject: Alcohol & Anxiety IMUSTWRITE asks about using alcohol to treat anxiety. Before I answer the question, I must say that I truly enjoy drinking great beer and sometimes I do drink too much (Like last night at our club meeting where we sampled about 30 different Stouts and Porters!!). But I also treat people who have substance abuse disorders and those with co-occurring substance abuse and mental health d/o. So, if you can wrap your mind around that incongruity, read on. The simple answer is there are much better choices available to treat anxiety. Targeted psychotherapy and/or Benzodiazepines are much more reliable and effective. That being said, we all have at some time or another, experienced that proverbial "I need a beer" sensation. It usually occurs after a stressful event makes us feel tense or anxious. Alcohol will, in most people, reduce those feelings. But there are risks, such as Alcohol Dependence and conditioned anxiety. If you have a true anxiety disorder then see a GOOD therapist (just like brewers and mechanics, there are good ones and bad ones) and leave the beer for it's wonderful, complex flavors. Dave Perez Gainesville, FL Hogtown Brewers Licensed Mental Health Counselor Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 11:07:57 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Yeast autolysis in secondary "Adam Wead" <a_wead at hotmail.com> asks >It is necessary to wait until the krausen has completely settled back into >the beer before transferring to a secondary? > >I have a porter that was finished fermenting (ie. wasn't bubbling anymore), >but still had a sizeable krausen. I skimmed most of it off, collecting the >yeast, and transferred to my secondary. The krausen appeared again the next >day and after a few days, started to fall back down. > >If I'm planning on leaving in the secondary for 3 weeks, should I worry >about autolysis from the yeast that's still in the secondary? I will confidently say that you will have no problem with autolysis in three weeks. Your procedure is entirely within commercial and homebrewing norms. When you say that there was no bubbling but still a kraeusen, I am puzzled. The same CO2 production that produces kraeusen is what makes bubbles. Perhaps you had a poorly sealing lid? No matter, an air lock is really not necessary - you can judge whether fermentation has ceased (or has nearly) by looking at the surface of the beer. I would try to minimize head space in the secondary if the beer is no longer producing CO2. Not a big deal for three weeks, but it will help keep the beer in good shape. I do this mainly by designing my beer so that it fills a carboy when racked. If you have a CO2 tank, it helps to purge the secondary before racking and then purge any head space. Small things, but they do help. Remember to relax and have a homebrew. Worry ruins beer. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 11:29:39 -0500 From: Donald and Melissa Hellen <donhellen at horizonview.net> Subject: RE: Dry yeast is a joke Alan McKay wrote about the great selection of quality dry yeasts that are available for the homebrewer. I'd like to know of a source (preferably in the USA) where I can get DCL K-97, S-189, and W-34/70. I can get S-23 and Safale (don't like S-23 myself), but I can't find these others. Some I can find on Paddock Wood's web site, but the K-97 I can't. Does anyone know where I can get ALL of these, not just some of them? (I realize that the S-189 is a repackaged product.) Don Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 11:35:19 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Hop Pellet Degradation Nils Hedglin <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com> wonders in Sacramento, CA >how long hop pellets are >good. I've kept them in the freezer in a vacuum sealed bag (or at least >in as much vacuum as as a Foodsaver vacuum sealer can do). >Unfortunalely, they are from 5/01 & 8/01. No, that's not a typo, they're >20 & 17 months old. Using the ProMash software to determine AAU >degradation, it looks like my 4.2% Hallertauer is about 2.7%. Does this >sound about right for the storage method? Can I just use more of them, >or have they gone totally bad? I don't know about ProMash, but the industry specs on storage are for whole hops at 20C (68F). Hop pellets keep longer than whole hops since oxygen is kept out by the compaction, and you've further removed air and kept them at freezer temperatures. I suspect they've not degraded all that much. I've had good luck with hand compressed whole hops in non-evacuated plastic bags in the freezer for upwards of a year, and I think you'll do much better, as long as the pellets are intact. Still, I think fresh hops are best since the pros can package better than we can. It may not be worth using old hops. Fresh ones aren't that expensive. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 11:38:15 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Lost brew in the boiler In HBD 4137, my reply to the subject query seems to have been zapped by the infamous "HBD line grabber". What I got back was, "My guess is that you didn't add a hose or other extension to the outside bottom of the boiler", which makes no sense. It was supposed to say, "My guess is that you didn't add a hose or other extension to the outside of the drain valve with the discharge end below the bottom of the boiler." Dave in Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 13:53:56 -0500 From: Todd Goodman <tsg at bonedaddy.net> Subject: Re: Lost Brew in the Boiler (Bob Sheck) * Bob Sheck wrote" > "Greg Collins" <gmc123 at bellsouth.net> Asks > > >I am trying to figure out some way to capture that last tad bit of brew > >after a boil that my 15 gallon keg leaves behind in the bottom. > > Really, you don't want to drain every drop out of the boiler, unless > you want to carry over the TRUB into your fermenter. Bob, I boil in a converted keg with a false bottom installed (yes, a false bottom in my boiler.) I only use whole hops and when finished boiling I don't bother whirlpooling at all, the hope on the false bottom act as a filter to trap most of the hot break in the hops. I pull from the bottom and leave very little in the boiler. To Greg: you probably already did this, but make sure your hose connected to the ball valve is well below the bottom of the keg. Todd Reassembling my brewery in Westford, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 14:03:45 -0500 From: Todd Goodman <tsg at bonedaddy.net> Subject: Re: Direct Fired Mash Tun with a False Bottom I use a converted keg (SABCO with their false bottom) and I direct fire it with no pump or recirculation (at this time, I plan to hard plumb my pump to make it easier to recirc in the future.) I do stir the mash occasionally, but don't stir constantly (just to even out the temp so I can get accurate temp measurements.) I've never scorched a mash yet. Now I use a natural gas burner on a commercial stove instead of a propane burner and I'm certain it has a lower BTU output than a propane burner. Just another datapoint... Todd Putting the brewery back together in Westford, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 14:28:33 -0500 From: Bill Wible <bill at brewbyyou.net> Subject: Re: Dry Yeast is a joke >Sorry Bill, but when is the last time you actually tried dry >yeast, and what kind was it? Sorry to disappoint you, but: First, I own a homebrew shop, and I'm probably more up to date on the current dry yeasts that are available than any of you are. So lose the "here in the 21st century" attitude right here, right now. Don't tell me, I'll tell you. I'm not a child in your classroom. Second, I used dry yeast myself as recently as November 12th, 2002, according to my records. It was Munton's Gold. It was brewed in a Munton's Gold kit. These are supposed to be superior kits, and the gold is supposed to their superior yeast. Occasionally, I do make the products that I sell myself, for evaluation purposes, and I even follow the exact kit instructions sometimes, too, to see how good or how bad they are. The resulting beer was awful. Phenolic as all heck. I use PBW to clean. I use Star San to sanitize, so don't point to sanitation, and don't tell me I'm an idiot who doesn't know how to sanitize a pail, carboy, airlock and stopper. I've been a homebrewer for just about 7 years now. I'm a BJCP "Recognized" judge, just promoted. I know it had to be the yeast. I can't tell you how many times I get beers brought to me for evaluation. Always the same problem - phenolic, like band aids and chloroseptic. Always the same story, always extract beers, made with dry yeast. I talk to people over and over, and they do clean and sanitize, like me, even with the good stuff - PBW and Star San. Doesn't matter whether they ferment in plastic or glass. Time after time, I steer these people to liquid yeast, and time after time, their beer consistently improves 1000%. Yes, dry yeast is a joke. Its no better today than it was 10 years ago. I said it, I'll say it again, and I'll stand by it. It's a free country, you can use dry yeast if you want to, and you can drink phenolic beer if you that's what you like. Just don't give me any. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 13:23:20 -0800 (PST) From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at yahoo.com> Subject: Source for Saf Lager yeasts in US A fine Canadian home-brew supply is now offering the more or less complete line of the dried 'Saf' lager strains. Is there a company in the US doing the same??? Before the PC police get their shorts in their crack, I am not engaging in xenophobic ravings(I even have a Canadian friend). It's the shipping time. Boycott Moosehead, buy Moose Drool. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 16:19:26 -0500 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Help, Need Insulating Coating (Not Beer Related) Pardon me for the off topic post but I know there are a lot of very knowledgeable people out there. I hope someone can help me. I need a coating to insulate an electrode. The electrode is placed in a mildly conducting liquid but I don't want any current to flow between the liquid and the electrode. The coating must be very thin. I have tried the following, all of which were unsuccessful: Varnish Super Glue (I have seen the vapors from super glue ruin electrical contacts) Nail Polish Auto Touchup Paint All seem to conduct in my test fixture. The test fixture consists of a piece if copper wire coated with the substance under test. One end is left bare and connected to one lead of a digital ohmmeter. The other end of the coated wire is immersed in tap water. The other lead of the ohmmeter is also immersed in the tap water. No matter which of the substances I me testing, the meter will read between 600k ohms and 20k ohms. I even tried a piece of transformer wire which is coated with a varnish type substance. It also indicated current flow. (I scraped one end bare and connected the meter to it. I then placed the middle, fully coated section of the wire in the water.) In every case, if I touched the coated surface with the other lead of the meter outside of the water, no current flowed. From this I assume the coating itself did not conduct. So what is happening? Are there microscopic imperfections in the coating that allows water to contact the electrode? Is there some sort of electrolysis effect? Is there a better substance that would form a very thin coating? (As a test, I am preparing to try a substance called "Plastic Coat". I am certain it is too thick for my application. I just want to find something to stop the current flow.) Thanks in advance and sorry again for the off topic post. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 21:31:38 +0000 (GMT) From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Ryncd=20Gweyth?= <bluebelz2002 at yahoo.co.uk> Subject: Dry Yeast is a Joke As you Americans say: That statement is absolute bovine defecation! Isn't the chap who posted originally an actual toft in the judging club you have? Shame! What ignorance! Over here he would likely be a Tory. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 14:10:47 -0800 (PST) From: Joe Murphy <ladislavsipos at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Chronic Anxiety > Could a small amount of beer be safely used to help control > chronic anxiety? "Chronic anxiety" is a definable psychological affliction, and needs to be approached with professional care. Someone who is having trouble coping with day to day life because of not-fully-rational fears needs qualified assistance, not the opinion of some guy on the Internet (i.e. me). On the other hand, there are many ways to adjust your lifestyle to relieve some non-chronic but repetative anxiety, and I think making (and drinking) your own beer can be a pleasant component of that. And of course, anyone on a prescription medication should talk to their doctor about the safety of alcohol consumption. Many alcoholic beverages appear to have health benefits in moderation. I also think that people who can drink in moderation tend to have other healthy attitudes towards life. But I'm not aware of anyone who can say drinking made a problem go away, or helped them understand a problem better. I am aware of people (including myself) who can say drinking too much out of fear or depression just made the problem worse. I think that brewing is a great way to develop a moderate attitude towards alcohol, exactly like cooking is a good way to pay attention to your diet. But I can't tell you to "control chronic anxiety" with beer any more than I can suggest you cure double pneumonia with chicken soup. I wish you peace, -Joe Murphy Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 17:14:47 -0500 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: reusing yeast,..and yeast count... Steve Alexander (on 30 Dec 2002) suggests using 170 billion viable yeast cells for Ales (assuming a 12 Plato/ about 1.050, I believe, specific gravity wort). Furthermore, he states that WhiteLabs tubes, if somewhat fresh, have up to 60 billion viable cells. Now suppose that one uses 2 vials of fresh Whitelabs Ale yeast for a low gravity ale (say 1.04 or so), then reuses the yeast cake for a proportionately larger brew. What is the range of increase in yeast cells at the end of fermentation ? Is this now within the range? And , suppose that one uses the yeast cake a third time...how large might the population become, and therefore, how high could the wort gravity become before one is again under-pitching? I reuse yeast 3 times, and generally do find that the final product is much better with the second and third use of the 2 vials initially pitched, but I wonder if anyone has calculated the hypothetical numbers..either of yeast cells, and / or of the gravity that they could reasonably be expected to ferment? Happy New Year, and Happy Brewing! ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 19:25:58 +0000 From: "Asher Reed" <clvwpn5 at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RO Water > >Asher - You wrote "I believe the only water purifiers that will remove >fluoride from water are >distillers and reverse osmosis filters. You don't want to use water that >has been treated to either of these methods for brewing." > >And I ask...why not? I use 9 parts RO water and 1 part tap water for all >my >lagers >and 50/50 for my ales. Pretty good beer here using up to 90% RO water. > >Bill Frazier >Olathe, Kansas You could use 90/10 or 50/50 distilled water and get almost the same results in your ales and lagers -- would you say that distilled water is best for brewing? RO filters are capable of purifying water to a greater extent than distillers, entirely removing "contaminants" as small as mineral ions such as: calcium, sulfates, magnesium, sodium, and chloride -- the removal of which will effect hardness and pH. If you are mashing your own grains the absence of these elements could be detrimental -- when brewing from extract, syrup or dry, this becomes less of an issue because the masher, hopefully, made sure that these elements were present at appropriate concentrations during the mash. If you are going to mash your own grains and are planning on using RO water (or distilled) it is wise to add epsom salt (magnesium and sulfate), table salt (sodium and chloride), gypsum (calcium and sulfate), and calcium chloride flakes (calcium and chloride), in proper amounts to reach concentration levels which are appropriate to the particular style of beer you are brewing -- ONLY if you know what you are doing should you go this route though, it is very easy to screw up water this way. One more thing about RO filters, because they self clean their membrane they waste an incredible amount of water -- it takes about 10 gallons of water to make 5 gallons of purified water -- that other 5 gallons is sent down the drain. I would rather have fluoride in my water than to deal with all this. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 15:37:05 -0500 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Don't make this I tried to make a pale ale for the holidays, and darn did it come out bad. I did want to make it a bit lighter for those not normally inclined to have a homebrew, but I REALLY overdid it in the wrong direction. Instead of creating a pale ale with some bite, I created a really drab tasting thing that I can only save by mixing with another "real" ale. Here is the recipe. DO NOT MAKE THIS. If anyone has suggestions, then I am open. Perhaps some crystal malt? 8lb Canada maltings 2 row 1 lb Carapils 1 lb wheat 1 rest at 154 F for 60 .75 oz Centenial at start of last 60 min .25 same at 30 .25 at 15 IBU's were 41.1 , on the high side, I thought... yeast was the third use of Australian and English vials... taste was watery...hops were not really evident... bad beer... any suggestions on making an american pale ale, one that can be appreciated by the masses, but not so ,...well...bland...will be appreciated. ..Darrell (having an identiy crisis: I thought that I was a brewer!) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 04:22:01 -0500 From: "Mike Maag" <maagm at rica.net> Subject: Medicine <<Could a small amount of beer be safely used to help control chronic anxiety? This is from someone with a background custom of just about never touching any alcohol at home or out.>> When I was 5 years old, when my Grandfather would have a High-Ball (burbon & ginger ale) I would ask him what it was. He would reply, "I'ts medicine". Seriously, alcohol is a depressant, and most literature says it is beneficial in moderation (2 to 3 beers or mixed drinks daily). Historically, alcohol has been prescribed, or self-prescribed, to control anxiety. I like the story where the old tea-totaler mother was having trouble sleeping. The country doctor told the son to put a little brandy in her milk each evening at dinner. He did each day for a week, then asked Mom how she was feeling. She replied "I feel fine, just don't sell that cow". (paraphrased from Bonnie & Clyde). Mike Maag, at a low anxiety level in the Shenandoah Valley, Va. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 05:50:52 -0500 From: "Mike Maag" <maagm at rica.net> Subject: That last bit of kettle wort Several persons have stated the tubing from the kettle may need to be small diameter to insure pulling the last bit of wort out of the kettle. I have found, if the end of the tube is below the wort level in the receiving vessel, enough "head" is pulled to suck the last bit out of the kettle using a standard (3/8) tube (my god, if 3/8 is considered "small", then "nevermind"). If only a 4 inch column of wort is maintained in the tube, then the "head" will be adequate to pull all the wort out. If you use some flower hops in the boil, the hops will filter out most of the trub, as long as you let the wort rest for 45 min before draining the kettle. Mike Maag, In the Shenandoah Valley, Va. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 18:30:10 -0500 From: Pete Limosani <plimosani at rcn.com> Subject: THE BUFFALO THEORY In an episode of 'Cheers', Cliff is seated at the bar describing the Buffalo Theory to his buddy, Norm... "Well you see, Norm, it's like this...a herd of buffalo can only move as fast as the slowest buffalo. And when the herd is hunted, it is the slowest and weakest ones at the back that are killed first. This natural selection is good for the herd as a whole, because the general speed and health of the whole group keeps improving by the regular killing of the weakest members. In much the same way, the human brain can only operate as fast as the slowest brain cells. Now, as we know, excessive intake of alcohol kills brain cells. But naturally, it attacks the slowest and weakest brain cells first. In this way, regular consumption of beer eliminates the weaker brain cells, making the brain a faster and more efficient machine. And that, Norm, is why you always feel smarter after a few beers." Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 23:07:16 -0500 From: "Greg Collins" <gmc123 at bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: Wort Reclamation Survey/Lost Brew in the Boiler Many thanks to all who responded to my "Lost Brew" question. Seems that no matter how simple the problem, folks are always eager to help. For instance, John Palmer went to the extent of conducting a survey. Even posted the #1 survey result, not to mention all the others who provided detailed instructions along with digital pictures. And too, being the concerned folks that they are, I was asked privately to report back and share my findings. So don't blame me, you asked for it.... First of all I will start with the #1 survey answer that showed 70 % opted to use a "straw". This at first did seem to be the most cost effective approach but not entirely the safest, as I will attempt to explain: During my first field trial, I noticed that an ordinary straw did not provide adequate length to fully the reach the bottom. It was near to impossible to keep both feet firmly planted on the floor and lean over far enough to reach the wort. Nevertheless, I wanted to give this idea a shot, after all, survey says right? So, I had to quickly improvise by moving my favorite brew chair over to the boiler to provide the badly needed elevation that would get me closer. That's when the unthinkable happened. As my weight shifted, so did the chair! Luckily, I caught myself before landing head first straight into to boiler. (I have read where you can drown in a teaspoon of water, you know?) Now, I wouldn't completely toss this idea out the door because a straw will provide fast access to worts final resting place. But I will advise anyone who considers this that a few safety hazards do exist, and one should be careful. It is possible that a some sort of safety harness attached to a pulley assembly located directly of the boiler could help, or if you trust your wife enough, maybe she could hold on to the back of your belt while you attempt to drain.. Still, I'm pretty sure at this point without proper safety precautions, there is an imminent possibility of drowning. Lucky for me it was only a field trial and I escaped without harm. Nevertheless, I dropped this idea and opted for the second choice. You know, the other 30% of the survey. Looking back I should have known something was up because I received no pictures pertaining to anyone using a straw. Instead, the # 2 survey result had very detailed pictures directly inline with my current system. It was recommend that any air leaking thru the fittings would quickly allow the siphon to lose its prime. Being a little reluctant by now to jump straight in, I cautiously wrapped each joint with Teflon tape and insured that each joint was tight. I then filled the boiler with enough water to adequately cover the pluming and proceeded to drain. Again, much to my amazement. IT WORKED! Wallaaa! It drained within 2.12 quarts at any flow rate! And since the other 30% of the survey provided better information, I also decided to use a "t" at the center with SS braided hose to provide a filter. How did this work? Marvelously! Although I haven't actually brewed with it yet, it held up quite well (field test #2) with a couple of quarts of spent grain/hops (some murky mess that was) that it filtered great! Now, there you have it. I am still confused a little on the #1 survey result, but at least the other 30% came thru. At this point it's hard believe those 70% but I could be convinced with a few digital pictures. Before I end this adventurous account, I will add one other thing. I'm not a tightwad! It's just good to the last drop and I want it. For anyone else is interested, I do have digital pictures of this non-breakthrough in Brewing Technology. I really appreciate the help and most of all appreciate the opportunity to post here. PS: I hate to go against the survey but if just one life is saved, it was well worth the bandwidth. Please Be Careful! Greg Collins Return to table of contents
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