HOMEBREW Digest #4140 Wed 08 January 2003

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  New WBA brewing course scholarship ("Keith Lemcke")
  Hot diggity dog (John Schnupp)
  re:Dual use of Beer Equipment for Wine Making ("Mark Tumarkin")
  RE: Reclaiming yeast from one batch to another (jtroyce)
  Re: dry yeast ("Steve B")
  Re: Staining with the use of iodophor (Fred L Johnson)
  Re: Full 5 gal boil of Extract brew (Larry Bristol)
  Wasabi beer? ("John Misrahi")
  re. dry pitching ("John Misrahi")
  Reducing the malt flavor in no-sparge brews ("Lanthier, Chris")
  Dry yeast starter? ("Drew Avis")
  Beer consulting (David Harsh)
  Shipping yeast from Maylasia (Mark Kempisty)
  dry yeast hydration/starters ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
  efficiency and malt amounts ("Stephen Weiss")
  DCL yeast in US ("Mike Racette")
  Re: Dry Yeast is a joke (Bill Wible)
  Best Beers In America . . . ("Ray Daniels")
  RE: dry yeast starters (Brian Lundeen)
  Pitching big, and false bottoms. ("Christian Rausch")
  re: Reclaiming yeast from one batch to another (Rama Roberts)
  Missing Entrants for MCAB V (Andy) NSSC" <AndersonRW at NAVSEA.NAVY.MIL>
  WLP 565 Belgian Saison Yeast (darrell.leavitt)
  pump question (darrell.leavitt)
  Filling CO2 tanks (Jay Pfaffman)
  Re: Staining with the use of Iodophor (David Towson)
  Re: Reclaiming yeast from one batch to another (Teresa Knezek)
  Re: Reclaiming yeast from one batch to another (David Towson)
  10 Gallon Gott capacity (jayspies)
  Dry yeast  & Root beer (LJ Vitt)
  Another example of the importance of beer ("Martin Brungard")
  RE: Mash tun for 10 gal batches (Steve Funk)
  Staining with the use of Iodophore - reusing yeast (LJ Vitt)
  All Grain Newbie ("Gilbert Milone II")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 08:45:52 -0600 From: "Keith Lemcke" <klemcke at siebelinstitute.com> Subject: New WBA brewing course scholarship I just wanted to let the HBD members know about a new World Brewing Academy scholarship. The California Fermentation Society, a California public benefit corporation based in Long Beach, CA, has generously offered to provide a $500 scholarship towards tuition in our fall WBA Concise Course in Brewing Technology (Chicago Campus: Oct. 27 - Nov. 7, 2003). The California Fermentation Society was formed to promote the appreciation of the brewing arts and sciences, supporting the Southern California brewing community through such events as the annual brewing competition at the Los Angeles County Fair. You can find out more about the CFS at www.calferm.org. For complete details on applying for the California Fermentation Society scholarship, please send e-mail to me at klemcke at siebelinstitute.com with the phrase "CFS Scholarship" in the subject line. Thanks, and I hope to see many of you in Chicago for the AHA National Homebrew Conference in June. Keith Lemcke at Siebel Institute & World Brewing Academy Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 00:11:11 -0800 (PST) From: John Schnupp <johnschnupp at yahoo.com> Subject: Hot diggity dog I didn't think I'd ever see it on HBD. Just goes to show you that hell can freeze over. I'm talking about the latest flair-up about yeast. This is really neat. It kinda' reminds me of the helemt and oil threads over on the XL-list (XL = Harley Davidson Sportster for those not in the know). Now all we gotta' do is get it to keep coming back every 4-6 weeks and I'll know I'm home ;-) ===== John Schnupp, N3CNL ??? Hombrewery [560.2, 68.6] Rennerian Georgia, VT 95 XLH 1200, Bumblebee Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 07:11:20 -0500 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: re:Dual use of Beer Equipment for Wine Making Paul asks: "Since my Beer brewing experiences have been nothing but GREAT!, I'm going to be taking another step and start making my own Wine. Is it OK to use some of the same equipment I use for my Homebrew to make Wine? " Yes - mead is essentially honey wine and many brewers (including myself) do both with the same equipment. . Some brewers use champagne yeast to finish their really big barleywines (though if you use a good starter & treat your yeast nicely, this generally isn't necessary). It's mainly with brett or lambic beasties that it's a good idea to use separate plastic equipment. Even then, glass or stainless can be safely sanitized. MarkTumarkin Hogtown Brewers Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 04:26:13 -0800 From: jtroyce at earthlink.net Subject: RE: Reclaiming yeast from one batch to another Paul R. asks: ...I would like to try to reclaim yeast from one batch to another. When and how do I extract good yeast from a fermenting batch. Then once I have this, what are the next steps to take in preserving this yeast for a future batch, (please addresssanitation, yeast nutrient needs, yeast reproduction, etc.). I recently recovered my first yeast cake from a pale ale and then used it ~3 weeks later for an Irish red. I followed the instructions given by Wyeast and was very successful: http://www.wyeastlab.com/hbrew/hbyewash.htm Two days before brewing, I took the yeast out of the fridge and let it warm up to room temp. Then a day before, I transferred it to a flask, added some wort and let it start fermenting, then pitched it on brew day. I had an active fermentation within about 6 hours. Worked great! Hope that helps! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 07:58:05 -0500 From: "Steve B" <habenero92 at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: dry yeast Well I feel that I must weigh in on the yeast debate. I have been brewing off and on for the past 12 years. I have used dry yeast for most of the time and only recently switched to liquid. My beers brewed with dry yeast would turn out decent but were always a bit less than what I expected. My biggest complaint with dry yeast is that HB stores do not stock the different strains. I can remember my choices being muntons ale or nothing. Since I have switched to liquid, my beers have turned out much better. Not to brag but brewing with liquid I have won competitions and my friends no longer seem like they are being just polite when they say the beer tastes good. Also I like the greater variety of strains that HB shops have on hand. Not being a microbiologist, why is it that so many more liquid strains are available in stores? My experience tells me that liquid is better than dry. But to call dry yeast a joke is greatly undervaluing its worth. S Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 07:57:24 -0500 From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson at portbridge.com> Subject: Re: Staining with the use of iodophor Paul asks about how badly does Iodophor stain. If you get concentrated Iodophor on something that you do not want to be stained, wipe it up quickly. I have seen such stains dissipate with time, but some stains seem to never go away. Although dilute Iodophor doesn't stain badly or at all immediately, even the dilute stuff will become concentrated into spots as the water evaporates, so you should wipe up dilute Iodophor spills as soon as you can,. Anyone working with Iodophor will quickly learn how it behaves (or misbehaves). I keep a bucket of dilute Iodophor around for storing small parts and tubing sanitized. (Don't store rubber in Iodophor. Iodophor will destroy rubber.) I always put the bucket on a throw rug when I bring it into the kitchen, as it will inevitably leave something behind. I try to stay in the garage as much as possible. Iodophor and pretty kitchens really don't mix. But by the grace of God, my wife has accepted my hobby and hasn't thrown me out of the house--yet. She's also looking forward to a new kitchen floor and counter tops in the near future. - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 05:53:44 -0800 (PST) From: Larry Bristol <larryjbristol at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Full 5 gal boil of Extract brew On Mon, 6 Jan 2003 12:02:19 -0500, "Romanowsky, Paul" <paul.romanowsky at siemens.com> queried: > I have just gotten equipped with a new brew kettle made from a 1/2 keg > and also purchase a King Cooker propane burner. Since I received an > Extract and Specialty grain kit, (IPA), for Christmas, that is the > first batch I'm going to brew with it. Sounds wonderful... Congratulations! > My question involves brewing this type of extract kit using a full 5 > gal. boil. An excellent move. Full volume boil is one of those little things that will significantly improve extract based beers. The longer boil times mean that beneficial processes occurring during the boil have more time to complete. > 1. I want to end up with a full 5 gallons of wort after the boil is > complete. So how much water should I start with taking evaporation > during the 60 minute boil into account. A good ROT (Rule of Thumb) is that you will reduce your volume by about 15% per hour of boil, so to end up with 5 gallons, you will start with 5.88 gallons (5 gallons / 0.85). > 2. What about hops as far as quantity goes. One friend has told me > that I will want to use less than called for in the extract recipe > because hop utilization will be greater with a full boil. Any thoughts > on that? Is there a rule of thumb to follow here. Your friend is right, assuming that the recipe calls for a shorter boil time. The table below shows the IBUs extracted from 1 ounce of 10%AA hops in a 1.040 wort varying the boil time in 5 minute intervals (computed using ProMash). Note the dramatic increase, especially for times under 45 minutes. Boil IBUs Time Extracted 5 - 3.7 10 - 4.5 15 - 6.0 20 - 7.5 25 - 9.0 30 - 11.4 35 - 14.0 40 - 17.0 45 - 20.1 50 - 21.0 55 - 22.4 60 - 22.4 The formulae for computing hop utilization are a bit complicated (more than I would want to calculate in my head, anyway). As for a ROT, my advice would be to use one of the computer tools available rather than burn up those brain cells. [When that comet strikes the earth and wipes out civilization as we know it, I will have to brew completely by the seat of my pants. EGAD!!!] Larry Bristol Bellville, TX http://www.doubleluck.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 09:25:09 -0500 From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: Wasabi beer? Peter A. Ensminger wrote about his interesting brews, including a Wasabi beer. Peter, aren't you going to fill us in? This is too weird to pass up! john Montreal, Canada [6631.2, 17.4] Apparent Rennerian Seen on a tee shirt - "The internet is full. Go away!" "Ah, Billy Beer... we elected the wrong Carter." -Homer Simpson "Fryer oil is like underwear, it needs to be changed once in a while or it breaks down" - Andrew Perron Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 09:33:24 -0500 From: "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: re. dry pitching Helomech wrote, "You can also just sprinkle dry yeast on top of your wort and wait 3 days for it to start a decent fermentation " Is this your experience, Helomech? I've done exactly as you say many times. I used 2X 5gram packets of Danstar Windsor ( a fine dry english ale yeast) in a bitter (low grav, ~1.040). There was a thin layer of white foam within maybe 2 hours, and the fermentation was complete, down to 1.010 within about 36 hours. Actually, I've made many beers with this yeast that I was able to bottle within 3 to 4 days (fermented, and often cleared as well!). Even with a starter, I've had much longer lag times with liquid yeast. I use liquid and dry, and I like many from each category. But don't go spreading garbage just to back up your point. John [6631.2, 17.4] Apparent Rennerian Seen on a tee shirt - "The internet is full. Go away!" "Ah, Billy Beer... we elected the wrong Carter." -Homer Simpson "Fryer oil is like underwear, it needs to be changed once in a while or it breaks down" - Andrew Perron Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 09:31:00 -0500 From: "Lanthier, Chris" <CLanthie at arqule.com> Subject: Reducing the malt flavor in no-sparge brews I'm about to embark into the world of full-grain mashing, and decided to do it the easiest way possible by using the no-sparge mash method I've been hearing lots about. What I'm also hearing is the increase in malt flavor you get from this method, which is good for bocks, barley wines and some English ales. But, what if I don't want this extra malty flavor? Is there some method of reducing it? Would a balance of malt and some non-flavored fermentable such as rice or wheat malt do the trick. Or would adding a pound or so of dextrose be a quick fix (so much for "full-grain"). Chris Andover, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 10:04:40 -0500 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: Dry yeast starter? Steve and Mr. Halomech have exchanged ideas on the necessity of a dry yeast "starter". I recall some very interesting information from one of the HBD's Q&A with the pros a while back on the topic of re-hydration. It was a question from Dan Listerman and replied to by Dr. Clayton Cone... I won't re-post the whole thing, but here's the link: http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/beerfaq.html#rehydrate Personally, I'm an un-repentant non-hydrator (with ales - I re-hydrate the lager yeast), and get good starts within 6 hours. Drew Avis, Merrickville, Ontario ~ http://www.strangebrew.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 10:28:43 -0500 From: David Harsh <dharsh at fuse.net> Subject: Beer consulting > Kenneth Peters" <kpeters6 at cox.net> writes of an offer made: > "Since this topic has come up several times, I am thinking of offering > the taste panel service again for $ 10 for home brewers. I have a > panel of > trained tasters and I am a National BJCP judge so this is the real > thing. What > do you think------- " Well, as another National judge, I would recommend that you seek out experienced brewers in your local club. Bring your problem beers and offer them for tasting and MAKE A POINT OF REQUESTING CRITICAL FEEDBACK. Bring a keg and have a mass tasting at the meeting and ask for comments. Your local club can offer you lots of useful feedback, but you've got to seek it. Many people will be polite and tell you they like the beer as opposed to offering criticism unless you ask for it. Be prepared to explain the details of your brewing when you do this. With all due respect to trained tasters (and I'm not saying some wouldn't find such a service useful), homebrewers will generally do this for free. I think a trained taste panel would be advantageous if you were dealing with very low levels of off flavors that are more difficult to pick up. (for example, I have trouble sensing DMS at all but extreme levels) If you can't pick out common flaws, go for the commercial examples where they are often found at higher than normal levels: DMS - Rolling Rock Diacetyl - Almost any Sam Smith's product Oxidation - German light lagers with dust on the bottles (Warsteiner is a good bet here) Skunky - Green bottle beer from a big supermarket, often includes both oxidized and skunky together! You can also prepare doctored samples for flavor recognition "training" if you want - it makes a good topic for a club meeting. The recipes can be found in many places on the web if you look. My $.02. Possibly worth less. Dave Harsh Bloatarian Brewing League Go Buckeyes! Cincinnati, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 10:41:06 -0500 From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com> Subject: Shipping yeast from Maylasia Its starting to sound like its time to put the yeast flak jacket on! But on an on-topic note: In shipping from Maylasia and especially in bulk (either pre-packaged or not) you have to be concerned about the shipping environment. At my previous employer we lost electronic equipment (mainly backup batteries) in the containerized trans-Pacific cargo ships. Fortunately not too many. But the interior of those ship borne containers do get very hot particularly on the outside layers of those stacks. If they are sending a dozen packs to one destination, then an overnight shipper is not out of reason. But as the quantity goes up that becomes less practical. Dry yeast is more resilient and that is the direction this discussion has headed but I have not seen it mentioned that this is the most logical reason why. Climate controlled shipping can be done, but of course costs go up. Any shipping cost gets added into the wholesale and retail prices. - -- Take care, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 10:59:34 -0500 From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> Subject: dry yeast hydration/starters I would not expect much cell enumeration by adding a bit of wort to hydrated dry yeast. It would take quite a large starter to get the cell count well below 100 mill cell/ml to encourage budding. Maybe it's been noted that Danstar yeasts are now available in 11 gram sachets. Thats approximately 176 billion cells, for a pitching rate of 9.2 M/ml, a bit shy of target but certainly a huge improvement over 5 gram sachets. Dry yeasts are made to be used in a particular fashion and I believe it is best to stick to the program, that is: use 10 x dry yeast weight for hydration water, use water at 40 C (104 F), don't add nutrients unless specially made for use in starters, hydrate for 15 minutes and pitch. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 11:10:09 -0500 From: "Stephen Weiss" <Stephen_Weiss at emoryhealthcare.org> Subject: efficiency and malt amounts Could someone please explain to me the rational for increasing the amount adjunct grains based on efficiency. What I mean is, if I use a recipe based on 85% efficiency and I get 70%, or I no batch sparge at 48%, do I just increase the base malts (ie. pale, munich, etc.) or do I also keep the percentages of the non base malts the same (ie. crystal, black patents, roasted barley etc.). So if the recipe is 10# pale 1# roasted barley at 90%, is it 20# and 2# at 45% efficiency or is it 20# and still 1#. Please explain the "science" behind the answer, ie. does the extra pale malt absorb other malts color and flavor and thus require more non base malts or not? Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 09:13:54 -0700 From: "Mike Racette" <mike.racette at hydro-gardens.com> Subject: DCL yeast in US A couple people have asked about a U.S. source for DCL dry yeasts. Crosby and Baker's website http://www.crosby-baker.com says that they carry K-97, S-189 and quite a few other DCL strains. I called them and since they are wholesale only, they gave me a couple of retailers names that do mail order, or you can ask any homebrew store that carries their other products to order whatever you want. These are two of the stores they recommended. I have tried neither. Alternative Beverage 800-365-2739 Beer & Wine Hobby 800-523-5423 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 11:24:11 -0500 From: Bill Wible <bill at brewbyyou.net> Subject: Re: Dry Yeast is a joke Ok, enough is enough. Let's move on to one or more of the other thoroughly beaten dead horses again, like: - Is it better to ferment in plastic or glass? - Does it really matter if your brewpot is Aluminum or Steel? - Which is better - liquid Malt Extract or Dry? - Should I skim during the boil or not? - Do homebrewers really need to worry about hot side aeration? - Is it better to use a hop bag or not? - What is the best brewing software? - What is the best brewing book? - Should mead really be considered beer? Isn't it really wine? Let's have some more opinions and rehash these same, tired old dead arguments again. Geeks. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 10:48:56 -0600 From: "Ray Daniels" <raydan at ameritech.net> Subject: Best Beers In America . . . Zymurgy magazine is currently conducting a poll of its readers to uncover what homebrewers think are the best beers in America. At the close of voting, we'll determine the top beers and then assign some master homebrewers to develop clone recipes which we'll feature in our July-August issue of the magazine. So, since I'm sure nearly every member of this forum is a Zymurgy subscriber (BIG smile), I thought I would remind everyone to open their Jan-Feb issues to page 44 to review the details and vote. Of course if you are one of those who hasn't yet become a subscriber, you might find a copy of the Jan-Feb issue at your local homebrew shop so that you can get in on the fun as well. The truly motivated non-subscriber could even call the number below to order a copy---or better yet arrange their very own subscription. Thanks to all for the bandwidth. Ray Daniels Editor, Zymurgy & The New Brewer Director, Brewers Publications Association of Brewers ray at aob.org For subscriptions and individual copy sales, call 1-888-822-6273. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 10:51:09 -0600 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: dry yeast starters Helomech, in response to Steve A, writes: > > To the contrary - dry yeasts are the only ones where you can bypass > > the starter and pitch after rehydrating. > --------------------------------------------------------------- > > Yes you sure can, but if you rehydrate it and add some cooled > sterile wort a few hours before you need to pitch it, you > start with a bigger batch of cells and get a swifter / better > fermentation (in my opinion). > Wait, you're both right (in a manner of speaking). Now, I wish I could put my hands (or browser) on where I got this years ago (maybe it was a troll under a bridge, maybe it was Dr Clayton Cone, my memory is fuzzy), but I do recall from my winemaking days being told somewhat authoritatively, that a true starter (designed to yield a suitable pitching population) gave poorer performance from dry yeast than rehydrating and pitching the appropriate amount. Given the low cost of dry yeasts, why wouldn't you want to do it that way? I don't consider this brief introduction to some wort a true starter. A lot of people think of it more as a wake-up call. However, when done properly, for the right reasons, it can improve your pitching population. Not so much by a lot of growth, but by preventing cell death from pitching shock. Rehydrated yeast faces a significant temperature drop when pitched. This drop is especially traumatic when cold pitching a lager. Lallemand recommends slowly adding wort to the rehydrated yeast, to slowly drop the temperature to within 10 degF of your wort temperature before pitching. Someone once gave me a very specific procedure to ensure the temperature drop was slow enough, but that's likely buried somewhere in all my literature (hey, I never claimed to be useful, just opinionated). Cheers Brian Lundeen Brewing at [819 miles, 313.8 deg] aka Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 11:53:02 -0500 From: "Christian Rausch" <christian at rauschbiercompany.com> Subject: Pitching big, and false bottoms. Hello all. I have read a couple postings that have touched on big starters. I have used 2000ml starters for a couple years and feel that they work well. I did however start to get more involved with my lagers and as a result I tried pitching a new batch on top of a yeast cake of a previous batch. Wow what a difference. The thing took off inside of four hours at 52F and the flavor profile at kegging, while green, was very clean. I collected a thick milk shake like yeast slurry that filled a sterilized mayo jar. Today I pitched that into a new batch and it was fermenting in about forty-five minutes. I like this much more than the 2000ml starters. Any thoughts? Secondly does anyone have any thoughts about false bottom construction? I have used the B3 stainless for the bottom of a five gallon Gott. It gets stuck all the time and it is starting to get frustrating. I had made one in the past out off a food grade bucket bottom and regret giving it away when I purchased this new one. Any Ideas? Cheers! Christian Rausch http://rauschbiercompany.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 09:19:13 -0800 (PST) From: Rama Roberts <rama at retro.eng.sun.com> Subject: re: Reclaiming yeast from one batch to another >I've been using Wyeast XL smack packs and White Labs pitchable tubs now for >some time. Great results with both. But with the $6.50 price tag per >package, I would like to try to reclaim yeast from one batch to another. >I've never tried this before and have seen posts on this site talking about >it but no one ever goes into great detail on exactly how it is done. Do a google search for "yeast washing". Wyeast has some good instructions I've followed a few times here: http://www.wyeastlab.com/hbrew/hbyewash.htm Only things I would add to it: - a 1 quart mason jar may be a little on the small side for the first washing. You may end up not collecting all of the yeast- not really a big deal though. - if you do plan on storing it airtight for up to a month, as Wyeast suggests is possible- be absolutely sure you did a good job with the washing. If you cut corners and allow some fermentables to be carried forward into the final storage container, carbon dioxide pressure will build up and create a mason-jar bomb. Alternatively, you can "burp" the container every once in a while to be safe. - --Rama Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 12:19:34 -0500 From: "Anderson Robert W (Andy) NSSC" <AndersonRW at NAVSEA.NAVY.MIL> Subject: Missing Entrants for MCAB V Greetings, I am a Co-Organizer for this year's Master's Championship of Amateur Brewers (MCAB). The contest will be held in just one month's time, February 7-8 in Washington, DC. (See http://www.burp.org/mcab5 for more details.) Unfortunately, while I have accumulated a list of all the people who have qualified for MCAB, I do not always have a way to contact them. My list of Qualified Entrants (those people who won in a contest last year which makes them eligible for MCAB V), does not always have addresses (either snail-mail or email.) So, I am turning to you for help. All of you are members of the brewing community, so there is a good possibility you may know one or more of these missing people. If you recognize any of the names on this list, PLEASE ask them to contact me immediately (& let them know about the web-site). Also, if you know that you qualified for MCAB V, but have not received an email from me, that means I do not have an email address for you. You might want to check the web site to make certain your name is on the list, and then send me an email so that I have your address. Your help is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Andy Anderson MCAB V Contest Co-Organizer "Missing" MCAB V Entrants: Bob Carbone Richard Dobson John Doherty James Grady John R. Griffiths Eric Kuijpers Phil Lawrence Jeffrey Lopata Dan Marshall Geoffrey McNally Tom Miklinevich Todd Russell Joe Scivicque Lisa Shafir & Jeff Pzena Gloria Solheim Mark Tambascio Jim Youngmeyer Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 12:40:46 -0500 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: WLP 565 Belgian Saison Yeast I have really grown to like the flavors that I have found with the Belgian Saison yeast (wlp565). I brewed with it on 28 Dec, OG was 1.052 and I used just the one vial. It took off real quickly, and while the vigor of the ferment has slowed a good deal, it is still bubbling about 2x per minute or more. My question is: is this common for this yeast to keep on slowly working,...and, if so, how long is typical before transferring to the secondary? ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 12:48:40 -0500 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: pump question I am looking at the H315 High Temperature Polysulphone Pump, as found at Beer and More Beer, and wonder if anyone has this pump, and if so, what they think about it? ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 10:05:14 -0800 From: Jay Pfaffman <pfaffman at relaxpc.com> Subject: Filling CO2 tanks Last I looked it was a bit cheaper per pound to fill a 20 pound tank than it was a 5. I'm wondering what it takes to fill a CO2 tank. What does it take to fill a 2 or a 5 pound CO2 tank from a 20? I've seen a setup in a sporting goods store where they were filling small tanks for paint ball in the shop, it would seem possible for me to do the same. If I could refill a small 2 pound tank myself, I'd be much more inclined to get one. I want the increased portability, but don't want to pay premium prices for gas. - -- Jay Pfaffman pfaffman at relaxpc.com +1-415-821-7507 (H) +1-415-810-2238 (M) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 13:15:24 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Staining with the use of Iodophor In HBD 4139, Paul Romanowsky has concerns about iodophor staining. I use iodophor for sanitizing, and have not found staining to be a problem so long as I exercise some caution. The concentrate will readily stain highly porous materials such as clothing, paper, unfinished wood and the like. And if you get it on such materials, it is unlikely that you will be able to clean it up before some damage is done. So be very careful with the concentrate. Work over a sink, and watch out for dribbles when you pour from the bottle. The properly diluted solution, on the other hand, is pretty easy to deal with, and you can mop it up with a damp sponge if you act quickly. It does its job with only a few minutes contact time (see http://www.bayareamashers.org/iodophor.htm for some words on that), so you don't have to leave it in contact with semi-porous materials like plastics long enough for staining to occur. Don't over-use it. A little bit does the job. Check out the above web reference for guidance on usage. Dave in Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 10:03:17 -0900 From: Teresa Knezek <teresa at mivox.com> Subject: Re: Reclaiming yeast from one batch to another On or thereabout 1/7/03, Romanowsky, Paul spoke thusly: >I would like to try to reclaim yeast from one batch to another. >I've never tried this before and have seen posts on this site talking about >it but no one ever goes into great detail on exactly how it is done. Well I won't claim to be an expert, since I've only re-claimed my yeast once... but it seems to be a roaring (or is that 'krausening'?) success so far, so here's exactly what I did: Last weekend, (step 1) I took a plastic jar and filled it to the very rim with sanitizer, and let it soak with the lid on... I also put a 1/4 cup stainless steel measuring scoop in the sanitizer, and I proceeded to rack and bottle my hefeweisen (which tasted surprisingly good at bottling time... so I'm very optimistic about that batch). After I was done bottling, (step 2) I poured the sanitizer out of the plastic jar, took the stainless scoop out, and scooped about 3/4 cup of the yeast sludge off the bottom of the hefe fermenter, and dumped it into the plastic jar, screwed the lid down, and headed off to the kitchen... (step 3) I boiled about 1/8 lb. DME in 16 oz of water, cooled it to the low 70F range, poured it into the yeast sludge, put the cover on loosely and swirled it around to mix up the yeast. Then I went and bottled my stout... when I was done bottling, the 64oz plastic jar was completely full of foam, so it looked like some lively yeast. I left it sitting overnight at room temp, and when I brewed my rye ale the next day, (step 4) I re-sanitized the stainless scoop, and scooped about a cup of cool wort into the yeast jar to sit while I poured the rest of the wort into a fermenter and shook it around awhile... the yeast had already started foaming up again (about 5 mins. later) and smelled exactly like beer yeast should, so I poured it into the fermenter, put the lid on, and stuffed it into the closet. That was Sunday evening. This morning, the 3" head of krausen that had appeared by Monday morning is still there, and the airlock is bubbling every second or so. It seems like happy beer to me. I think after this batch, I may try the "yeast washing" procedure described on the WYeast website, and see if I can't save a bunch of it for a month or so... I think if you wanted to save the yeast for a week or so, you'd screw the lid down after the krausen from step 3 had died down, and keep the jar in your fridge for a week or two without a problem. Just let the jar warm back up to room temperature, and maybe put in some "wake-up" wort about 1/2 hour before pitching, to make sure it's still lively? - -- :: Teresa :: http://rant.mivox.com/ "Whenever a theory appears to you as the only possible one, take this as a sign that you have neither understood the theory nor the problem which it was intended to solve." -- Karl Popper Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 14:00:06 -0500 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Reclaiming yeast from one batch to another In HBD 4139, Paul Romanowsky asks about harvesting yeast. I have been doing this for years with great success. It's quite easy, especially now that I have a cylindro-conical fermenter with a bottom dump valve. But since carboys are more common, I'll describe how I saved yeast from them. When racking off the primary yeast, I would leave about a half-inch of liquid above the sediment. After moving the primary ferment to a secondary container, I would swirl the remaining liquid in the primary to get most of the sedimented yeast into suspension, and then pour it into a sanitized glass bottle for storage in a refrigerator at 40 degrees F. I didn't try to get the last bit of yeast out, just what came loose easily, on the assumption that what settled-out first was probably the least active. I've seen estimates from a week to several months for how long you can store yeast this way, but I've decided on one month for my limit. Others may disagree, but I've made out okay using this criterion. I've seen descriptions of techniques using glycerin solutions to enable storing yeast for longer periods at lower temperatures, but I've never tried that. As for sanitization of the storage bottle, there are options. Since we're only talking about a volume of a quart or so, it is reasonable to boil the bottle and its lid. Or you can use bleach, so long as you rinse it well, or iodophor, which does not need rinsing if you use a 12.5 ppm solution and drain it well. I leave the cap loose on the yeast storage bottle to allow out-gassing while the yeast suspension settles, and the whole mess comes to storage temperature. I re-use yeast an indeterminate number of times. This depends on what it has been used for previously (high/low gravity, light/dark, whole hops or pellet), and I don't know how to describe that. It's sort of a "seat-of-the-pants" kind of thing. But I usually give it up after about five recycles, if I get that far. Just be sure to adhere to good sanitation practice at every step. You don't want to save contaminated yeast, and then use it to mess up the next batch. Dave in Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 19:18:26 +0000 From: jayspies at att.net Subject: 10 Gallon Gott capacity All - In HBD 4139, Brian Schar spaketh thusly: >>>The consensus on HBD seems to be that the 10-gallon Gott coolers are the thing to use for all-grain brewing. However, I'm not going to be able to fit enough grain in one of those for a 10-gallon batch of beer. From what I hear, the Gott coolers hold anywhere from 17-25 pounds of grain--not enough grain for any but the lightest beer styles.<<< Despair not, my friend..... Having used a 10 gallon gott for some 6 years now to do all grain batches, I can assure you that even with my paltry system efficiency of 72%, I can get wort gravities in the 1.060's with 23-25 lbs of malt. BTW, that gravity is for 10 gallon batches, and 1.060's or less will likely comprise about 90% of the styles that most HB'ers currently make. If you want a higher gravity beer, I'd suggest supplementing the wort with some fresh DME or LME. In higher gravity beers, the "extract tang" that many HB'ers complain of is, at least to my pedestrian palate, undetectable. So get yourself a 10-gallon gott and brew away. Your suggestion to get a Zymie screen is good; it will serve you well. BTW, congrats on making the jump to all grain. You'll be glad you did. Oh, and don't be afraid to use dry yeast. ;) Jay Spies Charm City Altobrewery Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 11:31:43 -0800 (PST) From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> Subject: Dry yeast & Root beer I have been reading the dry yeast discussions. The only beer dry yeast I have tried and liked is the Danstar series (Nottingham, Windsor, Manchester). It was some of the brewpub brewers that convinced me to try these yeast. I see two names recommended I am not familiar with - DCL and Lallemand. Is DCL the same or different from Danstar? I trust these recommendation because of the number of who like them and because of who some of those recommendations are coming from. There are many styles of beers I make that don't have a dry yeast that fits. Until this discussion, I did not know there was an acceptable lager yeast in dry form. Belgians and weizens, Kolsch, I'll stick with the liquids I learned to trust for these. - ----------------- Root Beer: Paul asked about carbonating root beer. I tried a few different yeast, but the only way I liked the outcome was forced carbonation. Champaign yeast left the cleanest tasting root beer, but the forced carbonation is better. Carbonating root beer or sodas using yeast makes you refrigerationguration to stop the fermentation, and its difficult to avoids getting foam overs. To artificially carbonate root beer, you need a keg, and a CO2 system. I have a keg and tap for it that only get used for root beer (OK I used itraspberryrspberry soda once). This is because the root beer flavor gets into the rubber seals and the tubing, and is hard to get back out. ===== Leo Vitt Rochester MN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 14:57:43 -0500 From: "Martin Brungard" <Martin.Brungard at trow.com> Subject: Another example of the importance of beer I was doing a quick web search regarding the cleaning of pH meter electrodes and I came across the following information. "pH was introduced by a Danish biochemist Soren Peter Lauritz Sorensen in 1909 to measure the acidity of water in the brewing of beer. The letters pH are an abbreviate for pondus hydrogenii (translated as potential hydrogen) meaning hydrogen power as acidity is caused by a predominance of hydrogen ions (H+)." I didn't know this! Another example of how important brewing is. Add this to the other minutia that you carry. Martin Brungard Tallahassee, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 11:58:40 -0800 From: Steve Funk <steve at hheco.com> Subject: RE: Mash tun for 10 gal batches Brian Schar asks about mash tun ideas for his 10 gal set up. I brew 10-gal batches too and use a 56-qt chest cooler as a mash tun. It can hold over 30# of grist. I removed the drain and installed a ball valve. On the inside of the cooler I just use a singlebazooka screen (NAYYY) w/o a FB. This is part of a HERMs setup and works very well for me and my extraction efficiencies are in the 75-80% range. FWIW. Cheers, - -- Steve Funk Brewing in the Columbia River Gorge Stevenson, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 12:07:07 -0800 (PST) From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> Subject: Staining with the use of Iodophore - reusing yeast Paul asked about the staining done by iodophor. Plastic items tend to stain with a brown/red color. I see it in tubing and plastic buckets. My friend's wine theftsignificantlyntly stained. The length of contact time is a factor for how much staining takes place. Racking tubes turn mbrownbown as left soaking in the diluted iodophor. My dilution rate is one fluid ounce of iodophor in 5 us gal. My one ounce measuring cup show the most stain, because it gets the undiluted stuff. Glass and stainless steel do not get any staining Paul's fiblaundrylaundary sink might be a problem. I do all of my sanitizing in the basement laundry area - cfloor withloorwith floor drain, and a 50 year old claundrylaundary sink. However, I think with rinsing the sink very quickly after the iodophor is in it will prevent the staining. Paul has another question about re-using yeast from a previous batch of beer. I have reused beer and mead yeast for 2 or three batches. I see others report on HBD they reuse yeast as much as 10 or 20 times. The sediment left at the bottom of your old primary fermentation is a combination of viable yeast, dead yeast, and trub.How HOw do I go about it. I make my second beer on the same day I want to rack the first beer to the secondary. During the boil of the new wort, rack the beer to secondary. Option 1: Keep a little liquid in with the yeast to help get the yeast out. Sanitize a new primary fermenter and the outside lip of the old primary fermenter (carboy). Sanitize a funnel. Pour yeast out of old primary fermenter into the new one, through the funnel. You will need to swish around the liquid to get much of the sediment to come out. You don't need it all, just a significant part of it. I transfer the sediment after putting the new wort in the fermenter. thirdOn the thrid beer you might need to reduce the amount of sediment you bring over. Option 2: Put your new chilled wort into the same primary fermenter that the first beer came out of. I have done both. Option 2 relies on your original sanitation of the primary fermenter. But so does the transfer of sediment method. But make sure your original beer is clean before making your new one. There is something worse than making one infected beer, and that propagating propigating that infection to another. ===== Leo Vitt Rochester MN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 15:22:36 -0500 From: "Gilbert Milone II" <gilbertmilone at hotmail.com> Subject: All Grain Newbie Hi Everyone, I'm on my third all-grain batch. I'm having a problem with undershooting my target gravity. Sometimes by as much at 10 points. Today I brewed a scottish ale using 9lbs of 2row and a few adjuncts. It was Paul Zocco's recipe from Brew Your Own. The target was .1055 and I hit around .1045. I use an insulated 5 gallon bucket to mash in and mashed at 158 for 1hr(high to get dextrine for the scottish). I sparged with 20qts at 170 to yeild about 6.5 gal of wort which I boiled for 1 hr. Yeilding me 5 gallons of .1045 wort. Does anyone have any advice how to get my efficency up? How do you know how much water to sparge with? Thanks, Gil Milone Return to table of contents
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