HOMEBREW Digest #4155 Mon 27 January 2003

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  Diode for Rims (Thomas Rohner)
  Thermometers ("Bill Frazier")
  Canadian Belgians ("David Craft")
  Diode ("A.J. deLange")
  Re: Yeast book ("Asher Reed")
  RE: "Soft" wheat?!!! (Jeff Renner)
  Yeast Culturing (Alan McKay)
  Evaporation rate and Mass Transfer (David Harsh)
  Re: business ethics ("Dave")
  diodes as power reducers & and HLT thought (aa8jzdial)
  too much crystal ("Tom & Dana Karnowski")
  RE: yeast controversy (Brian Lundeen)
  Electrical activities?? ("Joey Guy")
  Chattanooga Big Bash + heater elements + boil rate ("C.D. Pritchard")
  Weizen yeast Genetics (George de Piro)
  yeast question ("Dan G.")
  Craft brewing job opportunities in South Korea ("Keith Lemcke")
  Hefe (darrell.leavitt)
  aeration question ("Ben Rodman")
  AHA CoC English Pale ale and Bitter Results (LJ Vitt)
  HERMS Question ("Greg Collins")
  Stop Carboy Chugging ("Jonathan Royce")
  RE: Yeast Book ("Doug Hurst")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 11:36:32 +0100 From: Thomas Rohner <t.rohner at bluewin.ch> Subject: Diode for Rims Hi together a diode to half the power, generated by a heating element is ok. The "buzzer-effect" will not take place, unless there is a magnetic effect in the heating coils. And if it does, the diode wil only half the frequency from 120 Hz to 60 Hz.(One vs two half-waves.) But you can only half the power, which is not very flexible. There are wonderful chips available, which can make such a projekt very easy. For the sake of polluting the whole mains in your house and neigbourhood you should use a pulse-burst type of outputstage. Like the ones used for electronically controlled soldering irons for example. This works, because a heating element is a slow reacting device. Pulse-burst would not work with faster devices like light-bulbs (dimmers) I just found one at the Philips webpage. You can even download the datasheet from : http://www.semiconductors.philips.com/pip/TDA1023_T_CNV_2.html If you like to buy one from National Semiconductor, they shurely have something similar as well. But as i wrote earlier. We are talking about deadly voltage levels here. (everything above 42 Volts is potentially deadly) If you can't do it by yourself, or bribe some electronic-wizz with beer, you might be better of buying one. Thomas Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 19:42:33 -0600 From: "Bill Frazier" <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Thermometers Lou King said "I am hoping the glass thermometer is accurate as I plan to calibrate the mashtun thermometer using that." Lou, you can easily check the accuracy of your thermometers by testing them in an ice bath and then in boiling water. We did this with all thermometers when I worked in pharmaceutical R&D. If you find your thermometer is off by a degree or two (not uncommon) just attach a label with the info. and adjust for the error when you measure your mash temperature. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 10:37:55 -0500 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: Canadian Belgians Greetings, I just returned from Alberta and the home of Cream Ale. Every bar and restaurant served some version of Cream Ale. Even the IPA I tried was more like a Cream Ale than an IPA.......go figure! There is a question here. I purchased two Belgian Style Beers brewed by Unibroue Chambly while up there. One is called Maudite, appears golden and is 8% with a devil on the label. Duvel, Strong Golden Ale, style beer? The other is La Fin Du Monde and is also light colored and 9%, Tripel?? I would like to have these for our Belgian meeting later this year and want to categorize them correctly......... Thanks for any help north of the border or close to there......... David B. Craft Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 16:00:16 +0000 From: "A.J. deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Diode For Martin: Your 4800 W 240V heater should indeed produce 1200W at 120V (rms) drawing 10 A (rms). The peak voltage is sqrt(2)*120 = 170V so a 200 PIV rated diode should serve. It never hurts to have some spare PIV so 300 or even 400 might be a better choice (in case of lightening near the power lines or an inductive load being swithced off when the diode is in the circuit). Now when the diode is in the circuit the heater will be drawing only half the current or 5A rms so that a 10 amp diode should be fine. It will produce about 0.7*5 = 3.5 watts of heat which will probably have to be disposed of by heatsinking to something. If the diode is designed to be mounted to a chassis or other metal surface then just mounting it to the junction box the switch is going into (assuming that's metal) should dissipate the heat more than adequately but you must be very sure that the diode's metal mounting tab (if this is its form) is not connected to either anode or cathode as many are. For example one very popular form of a cheap diode is a power transistor with emitter and base joined together. The mounting tab in this form is electrically connected to the collector and so will be "hot" in an active circuit. BTW, I first saw this clever scheme for halving the power from a heater here about 10 years ago in a post from Ken Schwarz whom I haven't seen much of lately in the old Digest. Has anyone else? A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 16:25:56 +0000 From: "Asher Reed" <clvwpn5 at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Yeast book They have it at http://www.williamsbrewing.com -- Plug their item number, B75, into their search box to find it. Whether or not they ship to France is another issue. >Hello happy brewers, >Someone mentioned a book by Pierre Rajotte, "First steps in yeast culture". >Where is it possible to get it? I could not find it on any homebrew site >(or Amazon or BeerBooks etc.). >TIA, >arnaud at brasserie-du-coin.com >(Vitry-sur-Seine, 5kms from Paris, France) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 12:28:40 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: RE: "Soft" wheat?!!! Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> writes: >Jeff Renner mocks my manliness when he writes: > >> You can grind soft wheat pretty easily in a Corona mill. > >I can't comment on using a Corona mill, but I thought I would drop a nut >trying to hand crank this stuff through my Valley Mill. Needless to say, the >next Wit project will wait until I have motorized my mill. Of course, I >didn't purchase my wheat through a trustworthy LHBS, but a health food >store, instead. It is entirely possible a conversation along the lines of >the following took place: > >Store employee: I got a guy wanting to buy a sack of soft white wheat. >Grain sales rep: Yeah, I can get you wheat. >Employee: But is it soft white wheat? >Rep: (pause) Yeah, sure, the label can say that. You can tell soft wheat from hard wheat by looking and chewing. Soft wheat kernels are plump; hard wheat is narrower and somewhat wrinkled looking in comparison, and almost slightly translucent (not really, but has that impression about it). Soft wheat chews fairly easily; hard crunches and you might break a tooth. Grinding it is a similar matter. It takes two hands on the crank with hard wheat. With either, I suggest grinding it in two passes at least. Set the gap wide enough to just break the wheat into pieces first, then tighten it down to grind into a coarse meal on the second pass. Brian mentioned in a private email that his wits turn out too clear. I've had the same problem when I've kept them very long, but one trick that I read in a Zymurgy article by Randy Mosher (I think) is to throw a couple of tablespoons of flour in the boil at the end. It helps to suspend it in water first so you don't get lumps. This seems to have given me a bit of haze. I did this for the ginger wit I made for my daughter's wedding this summer. It had that double shine that Jackson talks about. It was also very popular with the guests. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 12:40:01 -0500 From: Alan McKay <amckay at neap.net> Subject: Yeast Culturing Arnaud asks about Pierre Rajotte's book. Arnaud, if you fail to find it send me email and I can give you the author's contact info. In the meantime you may be interested in the Yeast Culture FAQ on my website, written and recently updated by Pete Womack : http://www.bodensatz.com/staticpages/index.php?page=20030115194537697 Thanks again, Pete! cheers, -Alan - -- http://www.bodensatz.com/ The Beer Site (tm) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 13:32:49 -0500 From: David Harsh <dharsh at fuse.net> Subject: Evaporation rate and Mass Transfer Dan Morey <dan.morey at cnh.com> discusse evaporation rate >> Bill Tobler asks: >> >> How do these big breweries keep the evaporation rate down below 5%?... They use partially covered kettles - that's how. Now, to the equations and their applicability > The equation for evaporation in a column at constant pressure and > temperature is: > > N = (C*Dab/L)*ln((1-xal)/1-xa0)) > > where, > > C is the total molar concentration of "a" (water) and "b" air. > Dab is mass diffusivity > L is the path length (surface of wort to the top of the kettle) > xa0 is the concentration of water vapor at the wort surface. > xal is the concentration of water vapor in the local atmosphere. This equation applies to component A diffusing through stagnant component B. The first thing that is a problem is that air is not a single component, but for our purposes, the assumption that we can treat air as a hypothetical "B" molecule is a very good one. The problem with the equation is that it assume that the air is stagnant. It is nowhere near stagnant - so you ultimately have two possibilities: 1. Determine the "effective length" of the air column over the wort. This means vary L until your data match your theory. Commonly known as a fudge factor, or cheating. 2. Use a convective mass transfer coefficient: N = k (Cao - Ca1) Where Ca_ are the molar concentrations at the surface and atmosphere k is the convective mass transfer coefficient Of course, k is only known from first principles for laminar flow (a fun mathematical derivation if your in to that sort of thing) so your back to correlating your data to find the actual value of k. The fudge factor returns! If you take either approach, your units will be in terms of mass flux: moles/time/area so you'll need to account for the cross sectional area of the kettle if you want to apply it to your system. > the constants C, Dab, will be functions of > position (height above the wort). C varies inversely with absolute temperature and Dab will vary with temp raised to the 1.75 power (roughly). Since they are multiplied together, the product will only vary with temp raised to the 0.75. If you do the math, that's only about a 25% variation from boiling to freezing. (373/273)^.75=1.26 A mean value can be used accurately - especially compared to the other problems with the model. > 1. Increase the head space in the boil kettle will decrease > evaporation. > 2. Increased humidity will decrease the evaporation rate. Bingo. Personally, I've found that evaporation rates aren't significantly different for 5 and 10 gallon batches in the same kettle though. > I recommend you measure your evaporation loss over several batches and > calculate a volume rate per hour and use this for recipe formulation > instead > of using X% loss. I agree. Forget the theory and use a strictly empirical approach. I taught Chem Eng for about 10 years - I taught mass transfer several times and also ran the transport phenomena lab - I rotated several mass transport labs that were based on this sort of model and the key was analyzing your apparatus to determine the problems because the actual theory is quite well understood. Dave Harsh Cincinnati, OH Bloatarian Brewing League Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 12:26:02 -0800 From: "Dave" <brewingisloving at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: business ethics From: Robin Griller <rgriller at chass.utoronto.ca> Subject: Re: business ethics Hi all, >Eric Theiner says that it would be unethical for him to force someone to >do business with him. I couldn't disagree with him more: if, for example, >African Americans and Jews are excluded from 'doing business' by, as has >happened, banks, golf clubs, etc., >then it is highly unethical for anyone >to *not* force said businesses to stop such racist practices. I most >certainly would favour forcing businesses that exclude people from custom >on racial grounds to smarten up if they can't be pushed into bankruptcy. >Robin Robin, You have set up a red herring. "Someone" does not carry over or equate to "African Americans and Jews", or any racial group. Yes, it would be wrong, as far as I'm concerned, to refuse to do business with a group of people, unless they were arsonists and detrimental to my place of business, but refusing to do business with certain unlikable individuals should be a business owner's right. Dave Hull Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 22:17:29 +0000 From: aa8jzdial at attbi.com Subject: diodes as power reducers & and HLT thought Greetings: Some conversations are circulating regarding using a diode to reduce power to an HLT element. Grand idea. It should work fine. The diode needs to be rated for the proper voltage and current * 2 as a safety factor. The diode itself should be cheap. Try radio shack, or if those are not big enough, try a welding supply shop maybe. 20 to 40 amp stud mounted diode with small aluminum heat sink to disipate current in amps * .75 volts (amps * volts = power = heat in diode). 3/4 volt is good swag for the forward voltage drop across the diode. Reverse voltage drop will be line voltage but there is essentially zero current in reverse mode. Think GROUND FAULT BREAKERS here!!! Ground HLT very, very securely. Wear rubber boots when brewing etc. Wet people + 110 vac = dead. Dead folks can't drink hb. I have been using an electric heating element for my HLT for quite a while now. No welding / stainless cutting whatsoever. Observe the lower case "j" to your left in this sentence. Ignore the little dot and extend the horizontal part of the top of the letter to the right a scoosh(sp). Copy that with pvc, put a closed cap on the bottom with the heating element threaded into the recessed part of the cap. There was the drilling and tapping part. (pretty easy in pvc). Run the wires up the pipe, thru the tee and out. I encapsulated the connections around the heating element with JB weld. Correctly sized it will nicely drop into the Sanke keg. Caution again just like above. Ground and ground fault protection. Beware of the liqour level though. I heard a loud pop in mine after the water drained below the element. Wow was is red!! Second unit has a high limit hooked to thermocouple with tc tied to the element itself. If the element gets over about 230 f the high limit trips of all power. Good luck Rick Dial (aa8jz) Muskegon, Mi. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 21:03:27 -0500 From: "Tom & Dana Karnowski" <karnowsk at esper.com> Subject: too much crystal I have a friend (yes, it really is a friend, not myself, I promise) who is an experienced all-grain brewer. He made a stout with White Labs 005 yeast and followed his usual procedures except for one thing: he didn't have enough 2-row grain so he used an unusually large amount of crystal malt (like 40% of the grain bill) His original gravity was about 1.056 and it is now 1.038 and seems to be done. He tried pitching more yeast, the temperature was around 68 F, he aerated at the beginning, etc. I suspect the problem is the excess amount of crystal malt. Assuming this is true, is there anything that can be done at this point to make the beer fermentable? Would Beano help? I don't understand what it is supposed to do but I remember reading that it can help make a light beer. What about alpha amylase powder? Doesn't it have to be used at mashing temperatures? I suggested he take some of the beer and dilute it 1:1 with water (to make a tasty low-alcohol beer) or cheap malt liquor (to make something else, don't know what it would be but I'm sure it would be better than its constituents) but he doesn't want to try that. Any ideas? Thanks! Tom Karnowski Knoxville TN Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 22:12:45 -0600 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: yeast controversy Mark (not Mark) writes: In the real world, White Labs has to turn a profit, or cut product lines or employees until they are profitable. I like having eight English ale strains available with a mouse click, and can't afford the time or money to fly around England harvesting strains. If this business is unprofitable, you will find that over the long haul our selection of yeast will be narrowed down to the best selling strains, and the Platinum series and other esoteric strains will disappear. This is my point - pay the man for his work. I guess that even after 15 years in NYC, I still believe that there's no free ride - you want quality and selection, you pay for it. Or you get government yeast. Maybe it's just the petulant Texan in me. :^D I respond with: I agree, and in fact, I do pay for my yeast just about every batch. For all my bluster, I have no interest in yeast ranching, and I don't think anyone in our club does. I have never used someone else's slurry, nor has anyone wanted one of mine. In almost 40 batches, I think I have only re-pitched onto a yeast cake twice. The reasons have nothing to do with ethics, more with laziness. I make a lot of different beers, and the easiest thing for me to do is just buy a new yeast for whatever I feel like making next. I just don't want anyone telling me I CAN'T do it if I want to. Maybe it's just the petulant howling savage in me. ;-) I will add, I'm actually making efforts to increase Chris White's business. To the best of my knowledge, White Labs is only distributed up here by a couple of outlets in Quebec. Through the generosity of White Labs, I've been able to distribute a number of their yeasts to the members of my homebrew club, in the hope that they will like the product, and make a push for local distribution. One LHBS owner, who is in the club, is actively considering it. This is not out of dissatisfaction with my currently available yeasts. I like Wyeast, I like DCL. I just want easy access to all of them. I do indeed want quality and selection. But as Chuck Heston would say, "You'll pry the Petri dish out of my cold, dead hands..." ;-) Cheers Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 02:11:34 -0600 From: "Joey Guy" <jguy at jam.rr.com> Subject: Electrical activities?? Martin, In reference to your situation on element control..... The most obvious way to get a range of control on the element is to use a control for an electric range burner(cooktop). I think they are called surface burner switches or infinite switches. That way you can have more settings than just hi/lo/off and would be less dangerous. You can get these controls at any major appliance parts store. Just make sure the ratings on it are in excess of your theoretical amperage draw. Also just to make sure, talk to them and ask if there is anything else in the cooktop circuit with the control and burner. I don't think there is. Just my $0.02...for what its worth. Joey Guy "absolutely, unequivocally, push the envelope!" - ----- Original Message ----- > Subject: Diode Installation for RIMS > > Uh, sir, step away from the RIMS and put down the soldering iron......... > and while you're at it, put that diode back in your pocket! > > /removes tongue from cheek > > Seriously Martin, while I can't proclaim to be an expert, and I can offer no > "right way," I don't think a diode would be the proper choice of component > to use. Maybe a resistor, but not a diode. Again, I could be wrong, but > I'm guessing a diode would create a 60hz buzzer out of your heating element. > > Your calculations for resistance and power look right. > > Heatsink? A big resounding YES, albeit to the proper component. You are > expecting this component to be able to dissipate at least part of the power > meant to come off your element, so there -will- be heat generated. > > If you have an electric oven, it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull it away from > the wall and check out the schematics that are probably plastered to the > back panel. You can then see how they handle the temp control, and follow > that lead. > > Sorry to not have a specific answer and/or recommendation, but at least > maybe I have added enough doubt? > > Jim Yeagley Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 07:35:22 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net> Subject: Chattanooga Big Bash + heater elements + boil rate Chattanooga's Barley Mob HB club is having a 1-year birthday bash on Feb. 8. Highlights: Dave Miller as guest speaker Club competition Full course dinner Pub crawl HBer's in the Chattanooga vicinity are most welcome. Details at: http://www.barleymobbrewers.org/events.htm - ----------- On the low evaporation rate boil thread: I've read that hop utilization will be reduced with a low boil. I've not experimented with a low boil (usually boil 6 gals down to 5 over an hour) but I noticed the hop utilization increased appreciably after I started using a powered stirrer. Another big plus is that cooling with an immersion cooler is much faster. A stirrer is easy to make from some copper pipe and a small gear motor- details are on the new boiler link via the URL below. - ----------- On mounting heater elements to kegs for HLTs and boilers: The threads on most taper threaded half coulpings I've tried bottom-out before the heater gasket is compresssed enough to make a good seal. An easy fix is to use a spacer cut from gasketing in addition to the gasket typically comes with the heater element. THANKS go to Rob Wallace for the tip on merchant couplings! Another thing with straight threads are fittings with 1" HOSE threads. Haven't seen any in SS, but did find some in brass. - ----------- Martin Brungard posted that he manually throttles the heat output of his RIMS heater by turning the power on/off and had some questions about adding a diode. I'd use an electric stove surface element switch instead. Instead of just the 25% power a diode will provide, you'll have 0-100%. They work by turning the power on for varing durations on a 5-10 sec. cycle. With with patience and experience, you may be able to control mash temp. without turning the circuit on/off manually. All of the switches I've used will handle 10A at 120VAC and are under $20 from any applicance repair parts store. One worked great on my old boiler. Anyway, to Martins questions... Martin posted that the element is rated at 4800W at 240W but operated on 120v and correctly calculates 10A and 1200W without a diode. Neglecting the ~2V drop across the diode, it will reduce both the voltage and current by half, so the heater will put out about 60V * 5A = 300W. The 10A, 200 PIV (peak inverse voltage) diode Martin asked about will work, but I'd defintiely go with a higher PIV rating- they typically cost only pennies more and will provide a safety factor to handle voltage surges coming in on the power line. I'd go with a higher current rating also. >3. Will the diode need a heat sink? Assumming a conservative forward voltage drop of 2V, the power dissipated by the diode will be 5A * 2V = 10W. Depending on the diode package, amb. temp. and amount of convective cooling, a heat sink may not be required. My sWAG is that one will be needed. One can calculate junction temps./size heat sinks, but for inexpensive one-off designs like the case at hand, I'd use the "try it and see" method. >4. Is this approach still safe? There is a GFCI on the power supply. Define "safe". <g> To me, there's less risk with it Martin's approach than, say, using a propane burner in a basement. YMMV.... In addition to the obvious potiential hazards of power circuits, an additional thing to watch for with power diodes is that one of the two terminals is usually bonded to and/or is the same thing as the heat sink attachment provision. Use caution if you heat sink one of these- the heat sink will be energized if an insulator is not placed between the sink and diode! Another reason a stove switch looks good... A GFCI reduces the risk associated with getting oneself between hot and ground, BUT, it doesn't reduce the need for insulation/isolation, grounding, etc. c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 12:31:54 -0500 From: George de Piro <george at EvansAle.com> Subject: Weizen yeast Genetics Hi all, I have a vague recollection of somebody, perhaps AJ DeLange, writing in stuff about the genetics of Weizen yeast. This was quite some time ago. Specifically, I think there was something said about the gene that produces 4VG being unstable. If anybody has any documentation on this, I'd be very grateful to hear about it. It is most unfortunate that neither the Albany Public library nor SUNY Albany see the need for brewing journals. The ASBC web site yielded no articles, either. Thanks, have fun! George de Piro Head Brewer, C.H. Evans Brewing Company at the Albany Pump Station 19 Quackenbush Square Albany, NY, USA 12207 (518)447-9000 www.EvansAle.com Brewers of Kick-Ass Brown: Twice declared the Best American Brown Ale in the USA at the Great American Beer Festival (2000 & 2002)! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:27:20 -0500 From: "Dan G." <daniel at buffnet.net> Subject: yeast question To: Greg Man Here's another question for you (or anyone else) on starters. What is a good time to let starters work? Hours? Days? I usually do a starter a couple of hours before the batch and have had good luck but how much time do you allow? Thanks. ____________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 22:56:05 -0600 From: "Keith Lemcke" <klemcke at siebelinstitute.com> Subject: Craft brewing job opportunities in South Korea The Siebel Institute of Technology would like to advise HBD subscribers of unique career opportunities in South Korea. SEF Co., Ltd of Seoul, Korea will be opening multiple microbrewery operations in their country, and they require trained personnel for the following positions: -Central brewer -Controller -Brewers for individual breweries Preference will be given to those applicants with the following qualifications: -Brewer or Brewmaster who can adjust in Korean culture in certain period time -Experience with German brewing techniques -Energetic, high motivated person Those interested in applying for any of the listed positions should send their resume by fax or e-mail to: Hemi Kim Section Chief SEF Co., Ltd 92-4 Chongdam Dong, Gangnam Gu Seoul, Korea Tel: 822-514-3131 Fax: 822-517-2812 E-mail: head at sam-e.co.kr Submission deadline for the Central brewer and Controller positions are May 29, 2003. Submissions for brewing positions can be sent at any time. If you have any questions regarding these positions, please forward them by e-mail to head at sam-e.co.kr or by fax to Hemi Kim at 822-517-2812. Keith Lemcke Marketing Manager Siebel Institute of Technology Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:41:24 -0500 From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Hefe A recent poster stated that the Wyeast 3068 should be fermented at the lower end. Does this same advice hold for the WhiteLabs 300 / Hefe? The temp chart says 68-72 F... One more thing, have any of you used Rye in a Hefe? I find that it adds an interesting bite... ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 12:16:42 -0700 From: "Ben Rodman" <brew-cat at earthlink.net> Subject: aeration question Hello collective, Greetings! Long-time lurker, finally able to post. For my starters, I make a six-gallon 1.040 non-hopped batch and can it in quart-sized jars in my pressure cooker for later use; it's really nice to just pop one open at my leisure. However, they're filled from the boil kettle right into the jars and then pressure-cooked for 15 minutes at about 13 psi, which obviously precludes aeration until I start each individual jar. My questions are: could I cool the batch, aerate it in its entirety, and then can it, or would the heating process (like boiling) drive out the O2 or contribute to HSA? I haven't really had any problems with aerating the starter when I open it and add the yeast, but If I could include that step at canning time it would allow me to leave behind the break when I chill it, plus save a step when I get the starter rolling. Any experience or suggestions? Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 12:14:28 -0800 (PST) From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> Subject: AHA CoC English Pale ale and Bitter Results There were 51 entries in the AHA Club only competition for English Pale ales and Bitters. The following are the winners: 1st Place 4C Strong Bitter Roxane Hastings Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Edmonton Homebrewers Guild 2nd place 4B Special Bitter Thomas Yaeger Wyandotte, Michigan, USA Down River Brewers Guild 3rd Place 4C Strong Bitter Carl Eidbo Fargo, North Dakota, USA Prairie Homebrewing Companions The judging was completed by the Minnesota Timberworts with several judges from the Minnesota Homebrewers Association. Thank you to the judges and stewards. ===== Leo Vitt Rochester MN Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 16:01:19 -0500 From: "Greg Collins" <gmc123 at bellsouth.net> Subject: HERMS Question Greetings: Just when you thought it was safe.... I'm in process of upgrading my existing equipment to what I believe is called a "HERMS". I guess if you use a heat exchanger with a pump this qualifies. I intend on mounting a copper coil in the HLT and plum a "cross over" to regulate the temperature of the wort. This "cross over" (by-pass) will divert the flow away from the coil once equilibrium is reached in the mash with an occasional flow back thru if an additional boost in temperature is needed. This concept does seem a bit simple and you can't beat the price, but will it work effectively? There are no high voltage components, no controllers, no external hardware to take up more space (other than a pump), and this does seem to utilize the energy already present from the roaring propane burner. After researching some of the more traditional designs that incorporate heating elements controlled by some, well, controller to regulate, it does seem there is a need for high voltage. Does anyone using this type system have an problem with the lights going dim when you plug it in? [O, now that done it!] Has anyone else been down this road to "simpler is better" that would share some of their experiences? What are the pitfalls that lie ahead for such a simple system? I'm sure that limitations do exist because I haven't had to refinance my house yet to buy the parts. TIA Greg Collins East, KY Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 17:04:45 -0500 From: "Jonathan Royce" <jtroyce at earthlink.net> Subject: Stop Carboy Chugging Today, while emptying sanitizer from my 6 1/2 gallon primary (glass carboy), I finally figured out a solution to the "chugging" problem that occurs when a carboy more than 1/2 full is emptied. This chugging problem has been an annoyance to me since I started brewing because: 1) it causes sanitizer to splash everywhere, rather than pour in a nice smooth stream down the drain and 2) it slows the whole process of emptying the carboy. Anyway, the solution that I "discovered" is to take a length of tubing (mine was 1/2" ID) that is longer than the carboy is tall and insert it into the mouth of the carboy until it reaches the bottom. (The other end of the tube should extend beyond the neck of the carboy.) Now start pouring, keeping the provides a path for make up air; the fluid flows out around it in a steady and quick stream. I'm sure many of you are already doing this, but I was pretty proud of myself for figuring it out, so I just thought I'd share. Happy brewing, Jon Woodbury Brewing Co. www.woodburybrewingco.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 17:53:18 -0600 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: RE: Yeast Book Arnoud asked where to find First Steps in Yeast Culture by Pierre Rajotte. I purchased a copy from my LHBS (I support them when they're worth supporting) but it's also available from http://www.morebeer.com as item number BK580. Or from http://www.williamsbrewing.com as item number B75. I highly recomend this book for anyone interested in ranching their own yeast. Of course I'm NAJASC. :Doug Hurst Chicago, IL Return to table of contents
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