HOMEBREW Digest #4226 Tue 22 April 2003

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  Capital Brewing (Michael Hartsock)
  Brewer's yeast and yeast infections - NOT just another mommily (Alan Meeker)
  Sealing a conical fermenter lid - Silicon Choice, my finding (FRASERJ)
  re: Hops Book ("robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com")
  Re: foxx beverage corp. ("Rob Dewhirst")
  Un-stump the HBD - you could be the one! ("Jay Wirsig")
  Star San in Europe ("Eric R. Theiner")
  ethanol fuel?? (Brew Wisconsin)
  Chimay yeast ranching (BrianS)
  high alcohol yeast ("Steve B")
  Cooling the Wort, Take Two ("Dave Larsen")
  Bottom Mashing ("Bill Tobler")
  Hop news/Sterling hops/Target hop alternative, Admiral ("Mark Kellums")
  Triangle Test & Acid ("pddey")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 06:30:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Hartsock <xd_haze at yahoo.com> Subject: Capital Brewing Kudos go out to this fine brewery. This is just a heads up to anyone who likes german style brews, but hasn't much experience with this micro. I bought a "beer tour" sampler thing at the store the other day. Eight different beers for ten dollars, not a bad one among the bunch. Actually, not a one that wasn't good among the bunch! Anyhow, just my $0.02. mike ===== "May those who love us, love us. And those that don't love us, May God turn their hearts. And if he doesn't turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles So we'll know them by their limping." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 09:37:28 -0400 From: Alan Meeker <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> Subject: Brewer's yeast and yeast infections - NOT just another mommily Regarding female yeast infections and homebrewing: While it is true that many infections are caused by Candida spp., other yeasts, unfortunately including our friendly brewing yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae, can, in fact, also cause yeast infections in women. The problem of developing such infections has been documented in the medical literature, especially for women working in the brewing and baking industries (both use the same yeast species). As far as how a woman might become "inoculated" with brewing yeast via their homebrewing significant other, I'll leave that to your own deranged imagination. However, the recently discussed route through the digestive tract is possible. Drinking fresh homebrewed beer with sufficient suspended viable yeast (e.g. - if not decanted from the bottle properly) can lead to viable yeast making it all the way through to the other end, as it were. >From here, it is a short trip to the site of infection. Even though brewer's yeast are not motile, they can still be carried over and establish themselves. Remember, sanitation in the brewhouse is not just important for avoiding infecting your /beer/! -Alan Meeker Alan Meeker, Ph.D. Johns Hopkins Medical Institutions Department of Urology Marburg Building, Room 113 600 N. Wolfe Street Baltimore, MD 21287-2101 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 10:13:21 -0400 From: FRASERJ at Nationwide.com Subject: Sealing a conical fermenter lid - Silicon Choice, my finding Quite a while ago I posted my development of my conical fermenter that I built using a TMS cone (bought before the price hike, fortunately). After struggling with how to seal the fermenter lid, I have decided to go with an o-ring that I am going to "glue" to the underside of the lid, around the inside lip of the lid. My first problem was the o-ring, but I found a food grade o-ring of the correct size easily. Next problem was the silicon. Try and find food grade silicon on the store shelves! Ha! I searched the HBD history and found some related posts, but failed to find one that specifically mentioned a product. I finally located a good product at www.mcmaster.com, its a food grade silicon by Dow Corning, rated at 500 degrees, perfect for steam sterilization :) and its only $14.59 per cartridge! Down side is that the silicon is RED, not a big problem, but white would have been better for noticing cleaning problems I think, but I just have to be very thorough! Several people emailed me questions about how I was going to seal my fermenter, so I hope this post answers those questions! I will produce new pictures on my brew website as I assemble the lid seal and should be brewing for the first time with the new ferment this w/e, I hope!! John M. Fraser http://rims-brewing.tripod.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 09:26:28 -0700 From: "robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com" <robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com> Subject: re: Hops Book Bill, There's good news on the horizon. Mark Garetz will be updating USING HOPS sometime this year. And even better news is that he's planning to do it on CD, so it will be easy to provide updates!! Here's the website for his book: http://www.usinghops.garetz.com/ Per usual notes, I do not have a financial interest in Hop Tech nor Using Hops. I just happen to think its one of the best hops books out there! Robert Marshall robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com - ------------------------- Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 12:17:50 -0400 From: Bill Wible Subject: Hops Book This might be a good time to ask when someone might write a NEW and up to date book on hops.... ...Using Hops is one of the best references I know of, but it is so out of date now to be almost useless. I have posted this before. Obviously, I'm not qualified to write such a book. Anybody out there think they are? I'll buy (and sell) it. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 11:44:22 -0500 From: "Rob Dewhirst" <rob at hairydogbrewery.com> Subject: Re: foxx beverage corp. > From: "jim williams" <jimswms at cox.net> > Subject: foxx beverage corp. > > I'm just wondering if anybody knows if they have a website, or a phone #? I > can't find them on the web. I think you want <http://www.foxxequipment.com>. Bear in mind they are wholesale only. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 13:59:25 -0400 From: "Jay Wirsig" <Jay.Wirsig at usa.dupont.com> Subject: Un-stump the HBD - you could be the one! I have submitted a couple of questions (submitted twice for good measure) yet no one has been able to answer them. Every once in a while I get an e-mail from someone asking me if anyone answered the question as they want the answer too...it appears that the collective is stumped. I'll post the questions again you've got to think someone out there in HBD land knows something. Just think, you could be the one...the HBDer of the year... the champ... the challenge is made...the prize is clear - the person who prevented a beer related question to go unanswered on the HBD. Question #1 - Leffe Blonde Clone (yes it is by Interbrew - but it's good). The bottle says 6% ABV, and calls it a Tripple - (a small tripple?) Does anyone have a Leffe Clone recipe or the specs (IBU, Colour,) - I'd like to know the yeast Question #2 A few years ago I made a great weizen using Yeast Lab W51. I have never been able to duplicate these results using WYeast Wiehenstephen Wheat. I'm trying to find a source for this Yeast Lab product - can anyone help? I found the following on the HBD web site: Yeast Lab W51 Bavarian Weizen This strain produces a classic German style wheatbeer, with moderately high, spicy phenolic overtones reminiscent of cloves. Medium attenuation, moderately flocculant. Evidently much more consistent than Wyeast at producing a true Weizen flavor. This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains information that may be privileged, confidential or copyrighted under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for transfers of data to third parties. Francais Deutsch Italiano Espanol Portugues Japanese Chinese Korean http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 10:26:09 -0400 From: "Eric R. Theiner" <rickdude02 at earthlink.net> Subject: Star San in Europe I don't know if Star San is available in Europe, but both Straight-A and One Step are being shipped into the EU. My distributor, Das Bier!, is revamping their primary website, so I don't know if the following URL will work at the moment, but you might want to try: www.das-bier.com if you're interested. (Their offices are actually about 100 - 150 km from Amsterdam.) Although this is a relatively new development, my distributor is moving very quickly with these products, presenting them both to other distributors in other countries and to breweries. I hope you'll be able to spot them locally soon, so if you are foiled in your attempts to pick up Star San, you might simply want to try some other options.<g> Strongly affiliated, and, in fact, I own the company. Rick Theiner Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 14:36:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Brew Wisconsin <brewwisconsin at yahoo.ca> Subject: ethanol fuel?? On Thu, 17 Apr 2003 20:31:02 -0500 George & Lola <georgelola at netscape.net> wrote: > > I am interested in producing a little fuel alcohol > for myself. Brewer's > Yeast is only good up to around 10%. If I am to > produce any fuel I want > to be up around 20%. So my question is; If I took > a package of wine > yeast that would work to make 5 gallon of 20% wine. > How much water and > sugar would I need to grow one package of yeast up > to enough to ferment > lets say 100 gallon? Could someone give me a What are you trying to fuel, a beer engine? (Oooooohh, sorry, that was terrible) Seriously, I'm not sure that what you suggest is feasible or economical on a small scale. First, I'm not sure what kind of engine would run on 20% alcohol and 80% WATER. And if you wanted to get rid of the water, you'd have to DISTILL it and that would be ILLEGAL without a licence. Even if you did, you'd end up with only 20 gallons of "200 proof" ethanol. [Yeah, I guess my car could be said to run on "170 proof" (i.e., 85%) ethanol, but that would be misleading because the ethanol component of the fuel is an almost pure*, just under 200 proof/100% (*denatured to discourage human consumption) and blended with _gasoline_ for the other 15%] Again, I'm not sure what you want to fuel, but it would seem a lot easier just to look up the nearest gas station in your area that sells fuel ethanol (although that might not be easy if you live outside the Midwest). ===== Now go have a beer, Bob Paolino Columnist, Great Lakes Brewing News Member, North American Guild of Beer Writers Winner: 2001--Culture Feature (Gold), 2000--Travel Feature (Silver) ***Sometimes alcohol and driving do go together --my car consumes more alcohol than I do.*** ***http://www.afdc.doe.gov/afv/ethanol.html *** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 11:53:54 -0700 From: BrianS <schar at cardica.com> Subject: Chimay yeast ranching Charles Boyer asks about ranching Chimay yeast for homebrewing purposes. I just bottled 10 gallons of a Chimay red clone last night. I fermented 5 gallons in a first fermenter and 5 gallons in a second fermenter. I pitched a starter of White Labs Trappist yeast in the first fermenter, along with a starter of yeast I cultivated from two bottles of Chimay Red. I only pitched a starter of White Labs Trappist yeast in the second fermenter. My wife and I tasted some of each after the bottling process. Our subjective opinion is that the beer from the first fermenter, using some of the Chimay Red yeast, came out more "Chimay-like" than the beer from the other fermenter. Based on this admittedly-unscientific test, I'd say you could ferment with bottle-cultured Chimay yeast, and I'd encourage you to do so. Have fun. Brian Schar Belmont, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 15:31:50 -0400 From: "Steve B" <habenero92 at hotmail.com> Subject: high alcohol yeast I was catching up on the weekend reading and saw this reference about high alcohol tolerant yeasts: check out Turbo Yeast. It has serious yeast nutrients and can ferment straight cane sugar to +20% alcohol. The US distributor/retailer is http://www.brewhaus.com/. They also sell absinthe concentrate. The webpage references a Swedish yeast. I think that might be where it is derived. Just fyi. S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 22:33:51 +0000 From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpumonkey at hotmail.com> Subject: Cooling the Wort, Take Two A week or so ago I posted a question about low tech ways to cool off a fermentor and got several responses. Well, I've attempted to use the "swamp cooler" method of cooling the wort by placing the fermentor in a shallow tub of water with towel over it and a fan blowing on it. Unfortunately, I've been having some real difficulties with this batch of brown ale. Part of the problem is maintaining a constant temperature, which may have contributed to my stuck ferment from which I have never fully recovered. It seems to vary wildly from 64 F to 69 F, depending upon humidity among other things. There is no fine toothed control whatsoever. I tried to vary the temperature by only covering half of less with a wet towel, and varying the distance between the fan and the fermentor, but that does not seem to work very well. In fact, that seemed to create a temperature gradient in the fermentor where the top is warm (70 F) and the bottom is cold (64 F). I must admit that I'm pretty frustrated with the whole thing. As a result, I started construction on my new fermentation chiller using the "Son of Fermentation Chiller" plans as a guide (http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/chiller/chiller.html), as some suggested. Hopefully, that will solve my problems. Dave Tucson, AZ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 18:38:22 -0500 From: "Bill Tobler" <WCTOBLER at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Bottom Mashing A friend from our brewclub was over the other day and we were discussing how we brew over a few beers. I have a HERMS system and he brews on a RIMS. When we got around to dough-in, he uses a procedure I have never heard of, and couldn't find a lot of information about. It's called bottom mashing. Here is what he does. For dough-in, he puts the measured amount of crushed grain in the mash tun with a false bottom installed. No water. He then pumps the correct amount of strike water, at room temperature, up through the bottom drain. He says this wets the grain down very nicely and it doesn't make any dough balls. He said it also takes a very minimum amount of stirring to get the grain bed mixed well. He then heats up using the RIMS. He says he gets between 90- 95% efficiency. In my system, when I dough in, I put the correct amount of water in the mash tun, heat it up to strike temperature using the HERMS, then add the grain and mix it up with a paint mixer attached to my 1/2" drill. I usually get around 80% efficiency, and am very happy with that number. I did find a reference to Bottom Mashing. It was in Pamela Sambrook's book "Country House Brewing in England 1500-1900". Though I don't have the book yet, I read a reference by Clive La Pensee in a paper he wrote "Cottage Brewery Update" http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/dpickett/docs/cba/cba3/v1 i3p4.htm Here is what Mr. La Pensee had to say about Bottom Mashing. This is just one paragraph from his article. "Anyone like me, looking for more inspiration into country house or cottage brewing should refer to Pamela Sambrook's fascinating and highly readable treatise "County House Brewing in England 1500-1900." I've readopted the Victorian habit of bottom mashing and it works a treat, giving far better homogeneity of temperature throughout the mash, with a minimum of stirring, which in itself leads to considerable heat losses. The malt is placed in the mash tun and the hot strike water run in through a manifold in the bottom of the mash tun and then left to rise up through the grain." It looks like the only difference in what Clive does and my friend does is the strike water temperature. I was just curious if anyone does this or at least tried it. I'm planning on trying it the next time I make a 5-gallon batch, though I may dough in with hot water instead of room temperature. Cheers!! Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX. Way South of (0,0) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 19:16:48 -0500 From: "Mark Kellums" <infidel at springnet1.com> Subject: Hop news/Sterling hops/Target hop alternative, Admiral Steve A. writes: If Mark Kellums or another serious hop-head wishes to be the hop-news-reporter/leading-critic they'll certainly find the brickbats waiting, along with a good deal of appreciation. Me: Actually I wouldn't mind helping out where I could. I love discussing hops, growing them, and of course brewing with new varieties. A little while back someone asked about a possible alternative to Target hops. If you can find it I would recommend another English variety named Admiral. The few times I brewed with it I liked it very much. Also, check out Al K's book, Homebrewing Volume I, it is an excellent reference for hops and is very descriptive of many hop varieties. Mark Kellums Decatur Il. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 21:12:16 -0600 From: "pddey" <pddey at netzero.net> Subject: Triangle Test & Acid Fellow Brewers, In a quick search of the archives, I was unable to find a full description of the simple "Triangle Test" nor did I find it in my Brewing Techniques back issues...though I'm sure its somewhere in both sources. Anyway, my club will soon be comparing a beer that we all brewed from the same recipe ala the great pale ale experiment of a few years back. Folks tout the triangle test as a simple objective means to establish that beers are indeed different and seems ideally suited to the task at hand. Obviously, even to me, someone is nominated the pourer with the task of pouring one sample of one beer and two samples of another, presenting these to the taster(s) in a blind fashion (albeit sans blindfold, cane, dog or other accoutrements) and the taster is tasked with identifying the "different" beer. Now, how is this efficiently done with a number of beers, say 8 and a number of tasters, say 10? In one archived post, Herr Pivo recommends a die (as in single dice), I suppose to randomly select pairings? Now what stat tables are used? It seems like a Chi Square sort of test - I have tons of stat books that are ripe for a good dusting if I need to dig out a stat table for reference. Any tips on conducting the test would earn a toast. Or an egg. On a related note, anyone have a source for acid for removing beer stone from stainless kegs? or other magical such elixir? The jug of phosphoric (I think) acid I bought years ago is gone and my kegs are getting grumpy. The stuff I had was targeted to the dairy industry but alas the old west is light on holsteins and I can't find a jug around town. Ok, its not a related note. -Paul in Cheyenne, WY (or why not) with a CAP, 2 ambers, a Pils, a mild, 2 barleywines, and a few assorted meads in the cellar Return to table of contents
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