HOMEBREW Digest #4315 Tue 05 August 2003


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Contents:
  Aluminum Bottles of Moose Drool ("Richard Murney")
  Hey! Wha' happen? (MATTHEW HAHN)
  Re: aerating after fermentation (Jeff Renner)
  Alt Bier/21 yr brew (Jim Busch)
  RE: ...cheaper kegging options (Calvin Perilloux)
  European Pale Ale COC Winners ("Gary Glass")
  Re: CAP question (Jeff Renner)
  Head killers? - specifically glassware (Rich Rodda)
  Dr. Clayton Cone Fortnight of Yeast ("Rob Moline")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 05:39:38 +0000 From: "Richard Murney" <rmurney at hotmail.com> Subject: Aluminum Bottles of Moose Drool On July 30 Travis Dahl KE4VYZ <dahlt at umich.edu> wrote "(www.bigskybrew.com/index.php/fuseaction/home.alumaBottle). Anybody see these yet? Comments? More importantly, are the twist off or could someone actually reseal them, for something different?" My wife, bless her soul, picked up some of these for a backpack trip we did. They are light and unbreakable. Great idea from Big Sky Brewing! I was hoping to refill with homebrew too. They are not twist tops. However they do not have the tulip shape bulge in the neck for my capper to grip. Maybe other cappers don't require that, I don't know. They are a major advance in brewing science, nonetheless. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 05:40:04 -0400 From: MATTHEW HAHN <mchahn at earthlink.net> Subject: Hey! Wha' happen? I put my kegs (which are lightly carbonated) on a 60-40 N2-CO2 mix. They went flat within 3 hours. Anybody know why? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 07:38:34 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: aerating after fermentation Al Korzonas brewinfo at xnet.com (BrewInfo) writes from Homer Glen, IL (good to have you back more actively, Al): >I will drop slowly for months. That can happen when you have young kids, but perhaps you should cut back on the mead? >Chuck went one step further and said he adds calcium carbonate to >*lower* the pH whenever the fermentation slowed to a trickle. Brain cramp alert - it's obvious you meant *raise* the pH (or lower the acidity). Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, Aug 4 2003 9:51:30 GMT-0400 From: Jim Busch <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: Alt Bier/21 yr brew Wow, its great to read posts from Al K. again! Now, not that I want to be argumentative with Al, but I used to agree with him about all munich malts for Altbier, then I brewed up a series of 12 pilots with vastly different malt profiles : 100% Munich, touch of Carfa, down to 80% pils, some Munich, some caramel, some carafa. Somewhat to my surprise, the beers that employed over 50% pils malt as a base seemed closest to me in flavor profile with the holy grail, Zum Uerige. In fact read the label, roast malz, pale malz, caramel malz, hopfen. Hummmm, about time to fire up another alt as the brewery has been cooking Kolesch yeast recently. Just need to move that 22P Belgian strong ale out of the uni to make room! Regarding brewing for storage for about 18-21 yrs. Ive been cellar aging strong Victory beers since opened in 96 and have found that the best aging beer we make is Storm King Imperial Stout. It holds up better than our barleywine, and better than the Belgians. So here is what I would brew for an Impy: Pils malt to OG of 22-24P. 5% Roasted Barley Touch of Munich (say 3% if you wish) PNW hops, Centennial, Columbus, Cascade to about 50BUs. PNW hops, Cascade for flavor at 30&15 mins. Be sure to rest at least 30 mins at 144F to maximize beta amylase action for max fermentibility. 2 LITRES of thick slurry ale yeast per 5 gals. Yes 2 Litres of SLURRY. Oxygen feed when pitching. Since you have to bottle condition this, be sure to add fresh yeast with sugar at packaging time. Dont rely on the old ferment yeast. Store cool at 55F and dark. Prost! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 07:07:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: ...cheaper kegging options >> ...don't get a 2-gauge regulator. I, personally, >> think they are a waste of money. The second gauge goes >> on the high-pressure side of the regulator and tells you >> the pressure in the tank. For gasses like nitrogen or oxygen, >> where the tank is all gas, it might be useful, but for CO2, >> which is a liquid in our tanks, it really only begins to >> drop when all the liquid CO2 has become gas and that's >> just a few pints from empty. I hate to disagree with one of the Hall of Foam candidates (Al K), but 2-gauge regulators ARE useful, or perhaps let's say that these are useful if you have a large CO2 tank. Case in point: The tank-pressure gauge on my 20-lb tank usually runs around 50-something atm. It stays in that range (depending on ambient temp) so long as there is liquid inside. A week ago, I noticed it was down to 38 atm. Yikes! Time for refill. But time I have, because even at a "mere" 38 atm, that's a lot of gas volume. Many pints served later, and a purge-keg session, and a force-carbonation session, and I can see it dropping and know I better refill this week or next. So yes, the gauge *IS* useful! How much volume that 20-lb tank holds, I don't know exactly, but even at the current 20+ atm, that's a lot of gas when all I'm doing is using gas at about 1 atm (OK, more than double that for force-carbo). Keep in mind, though, that if you're running a 5-lb tank, you'll have a lot less warning time before it runs out. And also note that if you draw quite a lot of gas all at once, you can get a "false alarm" as the evaporative-cooling effect in the CO2 liquid will cause the guage to drop temporarily until the tank and liquid warm again to room temperature. Calvin Perilloux Middletown, Maryland, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 12:27:04 -0600 From: "Gary Glass" <gary at aob.org> Subject: European Pale Ale COC Winners With a total of 39 entries (15 Bohemian Pilsners, 8 Northern German Pilsners, 6 Dortmunder Exports, and 10 Muenchner Helles), the winners of Saturday's European Pale Ale Club Only Competition were: 1st Place: Mick and Vi Walker Munich Helles III, Category 2D Prairie Homebrewing Companions Fargo, ND 2nd Place: Daniel Aussem Leona's, Category 2C Beer Barons of Milwaukee Glendale, WI 3rd Place: John Aitchison and John Rasmussen Imperial Pilsner, Category 2A Maltose Falcons Northridge, CA Congratulations! Thanks to all of the clubs that participated and especially to Tom Gardner and Foam on the Range for hosting the competition. Cheers! Gary Glass, Project Coordinator Association of Brewers 888-U-CAN-BREW (303) 447-0816 x 121 gary at aob.org www.beertown.org - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.501 / Virus Database: 299 - Release Date: 7/14/2003 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 16:57:57 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: CAP question "Steve Arnold" <vmi92 at cox-internet.com> writes from Fort Smith, Arkansas: >I recently made a CAP in accordance with Jeff Renner's article in >Brewing Techniques. Can I just tell you, Jeff that it turned out >WONDERFULLY! Glad to hear it. I actually make my CAPs with a slightly modified recipe these days - no Munich and more hops, but that recipe makes a great beer too. >The beer had a slight grainy sweetness which I found to provide a >delightful balance to the 25 IBUs. The problem has come only in the >last week. After about 4 weeks in the bottle, that treasured "grainy >sweetness" has disappeared. I can think of two possibilities. One is that it continued to ferment in the bottle and this dried it out. This should have been evident from a higher level of carbonation. Did carbonation seem to increase? Keeping it at lagering temperature after it achieved proper carbonation might have slowed this, but lager yeasts will work at this temperature. The second possibility is oxidation. This can rob a beer of its "wonderfulness" before any overt oxidation becomes evident. Often it is the maltiness that is the first to suffer. There is nothing that can be done but you can watch out for oxidation in your future brews. A pale lager like this is brewing naked, and minor flaws will show up. Good luck on future batches. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 17:52:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Rich Rodda <rrodda at yahoo.com> Subject: Head killers? - specifically glassware I am trying to locate the culprit killing the head/carbonation in my drinks. Any beer, soda, carbonated mixer is de-carbonated when poured into any of my household glassware. I don't have a dishwasher. My tap water is hard(?). When left in a dish overnight, the water evaporates and leaves a pink residue. I use anti-bacterial dish soap. The latest bottle is cheap-o Shop Rite Ultra So-Soft. Active ingredient: Parachlorometaxylenol. Any suggestions on how I can avoid losing my head? :-) Tips on proper glassware cleaning appreciated. Thanks! RRodda in North Jersey (NJ) rrodda at yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 22:49:04 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: Dr. Clayton Cone Fortnight of Yeast Dr. Clayton Cone Fortnight of Yeast 8.11.03 - 8.22.03 Yeast Questions Answered I am pleased to announce that Dr. Clayton Cone, consultant to Lallemand, the American Yeast Company, and formerly of Fleischmann's Yeast Company....... and one of my own personal "Yeast Gods" has graciously agreed to host a 2 week period of answering yeast related questions from the members of the HBD, commencing August 11th, 2003 through August 22nd, 2003. Dr. Cone, certainly among the most generous of the brewing world's experts has allowed that he may call on others in the field....."as no one can know it all!" Questions may be submitted to the HBD, 8.11.03 up to the posts/questions that appear in the HBD 8.22.03. Dr. Cone will answer any and all questions at his discretion...which means if you have submitted a redundant question that is answered by any other response, you may not be directly answered. Standards to be followed..... 1. Questions MUST be sent to the HBD, submitted to post@hbd.org , and submitted with "Dr. Cone, 2003" in the subject line, with or without further subject heading. 2. Questions shall be accepted for response via HBD 8.11.03, through 8.22.03. Dr. Cone has graciously allowed that follow-up may be required post the cut-off point, and they will deal with that on an as needed basis. 3. Reprinting of the Questions and Answers may be published by Lallemand and Dr. Cone at their discretion, in any media. Attribution of name is granted by the questioner, without further publication of any e-mail addresses. Ladies and Gentlemen, Brewers and Brewsters....we are ever so fortunate to have Dr. Cone add his decades of expertise to what we at the HBD exist for..."Brewers Helping Brewers!" Dr. Cone...Bless You Sir! And Thanks, mate! Cheers! Jethro Gump Rob Moline Lallemand 515-282-2739 brewery 515-450-0243 cell "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.504 / Virus Database: 302 - Release Date: 7/24/2003 Return to table of contents
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