HOMEBREW Digest #4318 Fri 08 August 2003

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  Help with all-grain brew (Michael)
  Lallemand (David Towson)
  Two-gauge regulator progress report (Calvin Perilloux)
  Re: full flavored mild (Jeff Renner)
  Minikegs. ("Dan Listermann")
  Poor mash efficiency ("Dan Listermann")
  2 gauges (ensmingr)
  beer bars/breweries in Krakow and Zurich (Michael Hetzel)
  Pink stuff ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_full_flavored_mild?= ("=?iso-8859-1?Q?Larry_Bristol?=")
  beers to bring back to california (g flo)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 00:32:42 -0500 From: Michael <grice at binc.net> Subject: Help with all-grain brew Stephen.T.Kajdasz at Dartmouth.EDU (Stephen T. Kajdasz) wrote asking for help with his first all-grain brew. The first thing that pops into my mind is the crush. Are you crushing your grain or is your local shop? One or the other or you might need to adjust your mill. When I've sparged and had poor efficiency, the crush is usually too fine. (While grinding grain for a recent batch, I was interrupted. I discovered just after doughing in that I had managed to completely miss what must have roughly two pounds of grain.) The next thing is not to worry about it so much. Seriously. (I should come up with a catchy slogan like that and put it in a book.) Water chemistry is important, but I wouldn't worry about it until you've got at least one batch under your belt. I'm also under the impression that nice soft water like yours is much less likely to be a problem than hard water, anyway. (I have had horrible water problems, but I think I am the exception.) I would recommend tasting the wort at all stages of the process so you can get some idea of what it should taste like. You may also be able to recognize some off flavors (although the sweetness of the wort will often mask them). Michael Middleton, WI P.S. I second the Great Dane. A second location has opened up on Fish Hatchery south of the Beltline, too. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 08:28:48 -0400 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Lallemand Question for Rob Moline: If you can figure out how to portray it, please tell us how to properly pronounce the company name. Thanks. Dave Towson Bel Air, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 06:33:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com> Subject: Two-gauge regulator progress report Ah, the double- vs. single-gauge regulator saga continues! Progress report: After several days and a barbecue in which a decnt bit of keg beer was drunk up, my second gauge conveniently reads about 20 atm, down from upper 20's a few days ago. This gauge is indeed useful, you see, because now I know I can make it till the weekend (and maybe even beyond) before dragging that heavy steel, unhandled beast to the gas dealer. Of course, if you have any leaks in the lines, as Al had mentioned he might have had, all bets are off. As Al mentioned, if we know the volume of the tank, it's indeed an easy calculation to see how much beer we can push out -- or how much beer we can force carbonate, for that matter, with slightly more calculation. But I'm not sure the exact internal volume of my 20# tank. >> On my 5-lb tank, I'm certain you would agree with me, right? ;^) Yeah, to some extent. Though when my 5# tank gets down to, say, 30 atm, I'd reckon from the dimensions of it that I've got at least 30 litres of CO2 for pushing beer, probably more. That one will be running low on me soon, too, so I promise an HBD update when it happens, to see if the double gauge is of any use at all for that much shorter warning period. > I still would contend that if someone was trying to get > into kegging for the least amount of cost, I would forgo > the second gauge. Yep, agreed. Myself, I'll spend the extra $10 up front, though, especially if I had a bigger tank to use with it. One more caveat: That high-pressure regulator is what is most likely to get smashed when your tank falls over, since it protrudes out to the side. OK, add on another $16 for a gauge cage for "insurance". Sigh. Or be careful and lucky like me (so far) with it. Calvin Perilloux Middletown, Maryland, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 09:40:11 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: full flavored mild Chris Hofmann <Chris.Hofmann at camtronics.com> of Mukwonago, WI wants to brew a mild based on his: >house brew ... a malty (1.050-1.055, with lots of Munich, Crystal), hoppy >( ~ 60 IBU) APAish concoction. ... If I want to scale it down to say >1.038, should I just cut everything proportionally? > >I know it may not technically be a mild, but is this the right approach? I like to use Munich malt in a mild, even though it is certainly not traditional in Britain. I think it gives a nice maltiness. But I think you can improve by making a small adjustment by adding some chocolate malt and maybe even a tiny touch of black malt. The roastiness is typical and appropriate. But while you can just cut your malt bill by, say, 25-30%, you will need to cut the hops way back to about 20 IBU for authenticity. I think the best home brewed mild I've had was one brewed by Joanne Anderson, a fine brewer from Peterboro, Ontario (and regular attendee of the National Homebrew Conferences, including this year's in Chicago). It took Best of Show in the Canadian Amateur Brewing Association's 2001 national competition. I was privileged to sit on the BoS panel, and it was a real pleasure to award BoS to a mild in the face of competition from big beers. As I recall it came down to her mild and a fine barley wine. I advocated for the mild, not only because I thought it was a slightly superior beer, but also because it is so hard to brew a flavorful low gravity beer. Joanne is of the artistic or intuitive bent, as opposed to the scientific (to use a distinction that was discussed here recently), and insists that she really doesn't know what she's doing. Ha! She had several other beers that made it to BoS that day as well. She obviously can formulate a recipe and brew it. If you care to brew a recipe different from a scaled down version of your house beer, you couldn't go far wrong with her recipe. She shared with the UK HB group, so I'm sure she wouldn't mind my sharing it here. I think that using Maris Otter important, and the use of Carafa III was inspired. It gave the roastiness without any bitterness or burnt flavor. Joanne Anderson's Welsh Dark Mild for 5 U.S. gallons starting S.G. 1038 finishing S.G. 1012 6 1/4 lbs. Maris Otter British pale malt 1/2 lb. Chocolate malt (DWC) 1/2 lb. Caravienne L 62 (DWC) 2 oz. Carafa III malt (Weyermann) 6 oz. Crystal Malt 10 L (Briess) 4 oz. Torrified wheat (Briess) .85 oz. East Kent Goldings alpha 5.9 for 60 minutes in the boil .50 oz. East Kent Goldings alpha 5.9 for the last 10 minutes of the boil 1 tsp. Irish moss for the last 15 minutes of the boil water treatment - 2 1/2 tsp. Burton crystals 1 tsp. gelatin for finings yeast - White Labs British ale yeast Mashed in at 154 F. single infusion mash and left for 90 minutes in oven Primed with 1/2 cup of dextrose Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 10:19:28 -0400 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: Minikegs. : Bob Hall <rallenhall at toast.net> asks about minikegs getting oxidized. I have used minikegs for years and never notice oxidation despite letting them go long periods of time at room temperature and a well known sensitivity to oxidation. To get oxidation, you need oxygen. It would either have to be left at filling or injected. Using CO2 cartridges to power the minikeg pretty much eliminates that problem. I have used kegs half full and, while I try to drink them first, I don't notice problems. Using sugar to prime the kegs scavenges O2 from the head space. If the priming sugar is poured into the keg dry at filling, it supplies nucleation sites for CO2 in solution to come out of solution. This drives a lot of the air in the headspace out. This has become my standard procedure. Perhaps there is another problem that he is identifying as oxidation. Metallic flavors can come from metal exposure or some biological problems. If the coating of the interior of the minikeg has not been breached, these flavors should not come from metal exposure. Attempting to brush the kegs can scratch the coating. I don't recommend brush use for minikegs. Sometimes rust will form around the mouth of a minikeg. This is from the bung stressing the coating. It should be remembered that the lip area is completely covered with the bung when in use so even this should not be a source of metallic flavors. Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Free shipping for orders greater than $35 and East of the Mighty Miss. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 10:25:36 -0400 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: Poor mash efficiency Stephen.T.Kajdasz at Dartmouth.EDU (Stephen T. Kajdasz) asks about his poor efficiency. Almost all efficiency problems experienced by beginning all-grain brewers is related to inadequate crush. They read "just barely crush it" in a lot of books and wonder why they get lousy efficiency. This advice might have been good with difficult to control Corona mills, but is not good for proper roller mills. Crush the grain until it is difficult to find uncrushed corns and those you do find should look underdeveloped. It is highly unlikely that water is causing this brewer's efficiency problems. Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Free shipping for orders greater than $35 and East of the Mighty Miss. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 10:35:58 -0400 From: ensmingr at twcny.rr.com Subject: 2 gauges Instead of using 2 gauges, I suggest weighing the CO2 tank. If you know the weight when empty, then you can weigh it at any time and know how much you have left. This is cheaper than buying a second gauge and you can tell how much you have left at any point, not just when your tank is about to run dry. Cheerio! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY - ----- http://hbd.org/ensmingr Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 07:53:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Hetzel <hetzelnc at yahoo.com> Subject: beer bars/breweries in Krakow and Zurich In three weeks I'll be in Krakow for a few days before visiting family, and I'm wondering if someone in the hbd community could recommend some quality and/or interesting beer bars, breweries or perhaps even a place to get mead. I'm looking forward to many Zywiec Porters, but want to fully explore Krakow's beer scene. Also, I'll have a layover in Zurich on the return.. any similiar recommendations? Feel free to email me privately (hetzelnc at yahoo.com). Na zdrowie (to your health), Mike Hetzel Waltham, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 11:00:58 -0400 From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <spencer at umich.edu> Subject: Pink stuff Dave Houseman writes: >And I've found an iron residue in carboy's >of iodophor solution; apparently the iodophor solution causes any residual >iron to precipitate out. > I wouldn't be surprised. The standard treatment for excess iron in water is to chlorinate it, which causes some rust-like compound to precipitate (I'm assuming it's the chlorine that does it), then sand-filter to remove the "rust", and charcoal-filter to remove (enough of) the remaining chlorine to make it taste ok. So assuming it's the chlorine that does the job there, it seems logical that iodine, being in the same column of the periodic table, could do the same trick. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 12:37:56 -0500 (CDT) From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Larry_Bristol?=" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_full_flavored_mild?= On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 13:41:48 -0500, "Hofmann, Chris" <Chris.Hofmann at camtronics.com> queried: > Never have brewed a mild (intentionally). But as someone once posted > here, brewing a full flavored mild is one of the great challenges in > brewing. > My house brew is a malty (1.050-1.055, with lots of Munich, Crystal), > hoppy ( ~ 60 IBU) APAish concoction. > I would like to brew a smaller (less ABV) version. > If I want to scale it down to say 1.038, should I just cut everything > proportionally? > I know it may not technically be a mild, but is this the right > approach? The BEST answer to your question can be obtained from "Mild Ale: History, Brewing Techniques, Recipes" (#15 in the Classic Beer Style Series) by David Sutula, David Suhila. That being said, I will happily share with you the experiences I have had brewing this style. I like to think of Mild Ale as being a "light" Scotch Ale. Because of this, biscuit malt (IMHO) is an essential ingredient. So I began by taking the recipe for my favorite scotch ale, cutting the grain bill in half, and substituting mild malt for pale malt. This produces an OG around 1.043, typically ending around 1.013, and thus yields about 4% ABV. Since the hop characteristics of mild ale should not be particularly assertive, I use pure EKGs and keep the IBUs down to about 28.0 or so. I also use a yeast with a very neutral flavor. Over time, I have had to modify the recipe slightly. Mild malt is not easy to find these days, so I had to adjust it back for pale malt, increasing the amount slightly. It also necessitated changing to a darker crystal malt (to restore the beautiful bronze color), and increasing the amount of cara-pils (to restore the body and mouth feel). Lallemand London Ale yeast worked very well, but my latest batch was made with Safale #04 that I found while browsing the Beer, Beer and More Beer web site (http://www.morebeer.com - YABADABADO and all the standard disclaimers). I am very pleased with the performance and flavor profile of this yeast. My mild ale is known as "Muddy Mudskipper Mild Ale", and the recipe for it is available on my web site at: http://www.doubleluck.com/things/brewery/recipes/MuddyMudskipperMild.php [WOW! Is that a handful to type, or what?!?]. Is this recipe valid for this style? I will leave that question to those who actually care about such things. All I can tell you is that I have a difficult time keeping it in my beer cooler, especially when I have a party. Maybe formulating the recipe was a challenge, but it is not particularly challenging to brew. The results, however, are wonderful, and this is a great way to introduce those friends who have been drinking watery lager all their lives into the wonderful world of ale! - --- Larry Bristol Bellville, TX http://www.doubleluck.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 20:56:49 -0700 (PDT) From: g flo <gflo77 at yahoo.com> Subject: beers to bring back to california So I am going on a roadtrip to New Mexico next week through Arizona. I was hoping for suggestions on some local bottled beer I can bring back with me and enjoy on my trip. I am going to Phoenix and Albuquerque, so any suggestions on regional specialties would be appreciated. I am also going through San Diego, but I already have a quite a long list for there. Thanks in advance Greg Flores Santa Cruz, CA http://www.emptyboxbrewing.blogspot.com Return to table of contents
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