HOMEBREW Digest #4374 Wed 15 October 2003


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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Cold pitching of yeast (John Palmer)
  Commercial additives... (Bev Blackwood II)
  Re: Visiting Vancouver ("Keith Lemcke")
  re: commercial beer additives (Dane Mosher)
  formaldehyde stuff (ensmingr)
  re:  pumpkin ale/chocolate stout (Dane Mosher)
  RE: kegging question (Bill Tobler)
  RE: Commercial Beer Additives (Michael Hartsock)
  Study Upsets Idea That All Calories---WSJ Article ("Pete Calinski")
  aerating dried yeast / kegging ("Jay Spies")
  Re: Gravity samples, decarbonating (Christopher Swingley)
  sulfites ("Mike Racette")
  Brussels ("Kerry and Dell Drake")
  Re: Kegging Question/Keg purging ("Steve Dale-Johnson")
  Bottling yeast for lambic ("Chad Stevens")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 21:37:16 -0700 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at altrionet.com> Subject: Cold pitching of yeast Hi Group, I was participating in the Chat group at Homebrew Adventures on Sunday night and one of the guys asked about the practice of pitching yeast that had been stored cold to the (fermentation temp) wort, saying that he had heard that it performed well or showed (an improvement). It was the first I had heard of it. I believe he said that Mitch Steele espoused it on the AOB forum. I read Steve's post tonight on Bass Ale practice (ne Bouton & Quain) and thought perhaps that was were the thread originated from. Anyone else heard of this or have some references? In general it seems counter-intuitive, but there are probably a set of circumstances where it is useful. I would like to understand the context better. Thansk, John John Palmer john at howtobrew.com www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer www.howtobrew.com - the free online book of homebrewing Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 23:42:26 -0500 From: Bev Blackwood II <bdb2 at bdb2.com> Subject: Commercial additives... > "Joe Berardino" <misbrewhaven at hotmail.com> notes: > The guy that I was talking with stated that Budweiser uses > formaldehyde in their > products. I can't speak to the accuracy of that particular adjunct, but I can say that I have seen the adjunct survey that was issued to commercial breweries a few years back and among the 100+ things that *aren't* malt, hops, yeast and water was urea! As my brewer friend likes to joke... He thought that was just a story about how light beer was made! -BDB2 Bev D. Blackwood II http://www.bdb2.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 22:21:04 -0700 From: "Keith Lemcke" <klemcke at siebelinstitute.com> Subject: Re: Visiting Vancouver Vancouver beer spots (all within walking distance in the downtown core): Steamworks in Gastown - terrific view, next to the Seabus terminal (a cheap, can't miss touristy thing to do), neat area with fun shops during the day (scuzzy at night) Yaletown Brewing on Mainland in Yaletown - most popular brewpub in the city, cheap beer & pizzas on Sunday, good food (most places in Vancouver have good food) DIX at 871 Beatty - My local place, specialize in barbeque, cask night one Saturday a month, rocks on nights when the local sports teams play in town Dockside on Granville Island - excellent area, German brewer, surrounded by the waterfront in Vancouver's busiest tourist attraction Liquor store is at Alberni & Thurlow, get your hotel to check the hours as these are government stores that sometimes close early. You might see some imports that you can't get in Florida, but the ones you have not yet tried will probable be the B.C. stuff, which is good if not overly demanding. There are some excellent restaurants here which aren't beer-centered, but our food is so fresh here (and there is lots of competition) that it would be a waste not to try a good (expensive) restaurant like Lumiere. Have fun. Bring an umbrella, just in case. Keith at Siebel Institute Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 22:45:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Dane Mosher <dane_mosher at yahoo.com> Subject: re: commercial beer additives >The guy that I was talking with stated that Budweiser uses formaldehyde in their products. And dark beer is made by collecting the sludge at the bottom of the tanks, right? :-) Relax, there's no formaldehyde in American beer. I once heard this rumor about Mexican beers too, and that's also false. There is a shred of truth behind the rumor though. Formaldehyde has been shown to improve colloidal stability of beer when added to the mash. (Less than 0.1% persists into the beer.) I can't say for sure that formaldehyde is not used anywhere, but I'm certain (based on conversations with instructors at Siebel Institute) that it doesn't happen in the U.S. or in Mexico. And I think Germany is a good bet too. :-) Here's a good link that talks about this rumor falsely being applied to Singha beer of Thailand. http://www.beveragebusiness.com/art98/bryson0603.html. A-B and other big boys do use many preservatives and stabilizers, but as I recall, they are all pretty humdrum food science-type additives. The primary preservatives are sulfites and ascorbic acid. Papain is a common stabilizer. I suspect the sulfites might be a cause of headaches for some. They don't use enough of them to have to declare it on their labels, so very few know about it. Hope this eases your mind. Dane Mosher Fort Worth, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 02:17:39 -0400 From: ensmingr <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com> Subject: formaldehyde stuff The idea that AB adds formaldehyde to Budweiser seems like urban legend. However, it does not seem unreasonable that Bud and other beers contain a part-per-million (or so) of formaldehyde. They probably contain much more methanol, which your liver converts into formaldehyde. Some background about ethanol/methanol/formaldehyde ... Normally, alcohol dehydrogenase (ADH) in the liver converts ethanol (CH3CH2OH) into acetaldehyde (H3CCHO) and aldehyde dehydrogenase (ALDH) converts this into acetic acid (H3CCOOH): Ethanol--->Acetaldehyde--->Acetic acid Methanol (CH3OH; 'wood alcohol') is poisonous because ADH coverts it into formaldehyde (H2CO) and ALDH converts this into formic acid (HCOOH): Methanol--->Formaldehyde--->Formic acid Acetaldehyde and/or the very small amounts of formaldehyde and formic acid that follow from drinking large amounts of beer/wine/etc are the apparent causes of hangover. Larger amounts of formaldehyde and formic acid can be lethal. Consumption of aspartame (in diet soda etc) leads to release of methanol and this can lead to formation of formaldehyde & formic acid. However, available evidence indicates that dietary exposure to methanol from other sources is much greater than that from aspartame. Cheerio! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY http://hbd.org/ensmingr Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 23:23:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Dane Mosher <dane_mosher at yahoo.com> Subject: re: pumpkin ale/chocolate stout I agree that it would be better to partial mash the pumpkin per Marc Sedam's instructions instead of putting it into the boil. You might want to throw in some rice hulls in the mash too, because it's going to get gummy. Dave Burley offers advice on whirlpooling: >Use whole leaf hops if you can.To remove your wort from your hops, whirlpool the wort and the hops will collect in the middle. I haven't had much success with whirlpooling whole leaf hops. They are very bulky. I find that pellets form a tighter cone in the middle. YMMV Putting the hops into a muslin bag does work, but you have to increase the amount by at least 10% to get the same contribution that you'd get from loose hops. re: chocolate stout Beer writer Randy Mosher (no relation) suggests using Creme de Cacao as a chocolate flavoring for beer, which I think is a great idea. You could add it to taste in the secondary. But if you do use cocoa powder, which I tried once, ramp down on your bittering hops. Unsweetened chocolate is very bitter, and it's a bitterness that doesn't meld well with hop bitterness. That chocolate stout was one of my first brews, and it ended up being poured down the sink for various reasons... ummhmm infection... but it sure smelled good while boiling. Dane Mosher Fort Worth, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 05:05:34 -0500 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: RE: kegging question Gregory Morris asked a good question on kegging: "Quick question: Say I brewed a batch of beer, that after racking/etc came out to be around 3.5-4 gallons. I want to keg it in a 5 gallon keg. I know there is a problem with having too much oxygen on top of the beer. What I'd like to know is, would it be ok to blow CO2 through the liquid valve on my ball-lock keg, and let air out of the gas valve? Would this work?" Greg, sense the vapor space on top of the beer is air, bubbling CO2 up from the bottom of the keg would just aerate the wort, IMO. A better way would be Dave Burley's method of filling a clean keg up with boiled and cooled water, then pushing it out with CO2 and racking your beer to the keg through the liquid out tap. I don't have the patience to boil 5 gallons of water, so I use tap water to get the air out, then push some Star San into the keg from another keg and sanitize the keg that way. I keep a 3 gallon keg with Star San in the brewery to sanitize various things. Hope that helped. If you're in the Houston Area this weekend, come check out the 20th Annual Dixie Cup Competition. Details at http://www.foamrangers.com/ Cheers!! Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 05:03:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Hartsock <xd_haze at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Commercial Beer Additives Joe - Formaldehyde is not used (nor was it ever used) as a preservative of any food. However, in the manufacture of aluminum cans, the lubricant used in the process was treated with formaldehyde (40 years ago) and it currently treated with some other biocide. The cans are cleaned of any lubricant prior to filling, but a trace amount of biocide is inevitably left behind. This process is not particuliar to Budweiser, but every food produce that uses metal can. Not only does this trace amount of biocide have no heath effect, the current biocide is not formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is not used in the lab setting any more, either. Instead a less toxic polymer bound formaldehyde like paraformaldehyde or formalin is used. It is a kind of urban myth. Formaldehyde was not used as a food preservative like MSG, but was a residual of the can making process. If you're looking for reasons not to drink budweiser, I'm sure you will find plenty, but formaldehyde is not one. Michael, Columbia, MO ===== "May those who love us, love us. And those that don't love us, May God turn their hearts. And if he doesn't turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles So we'll know them by their limping." Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 11:22:00 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Study Upsets Idea That All Calories---WSJ Article The 10/14/03 Wall Street Journal had an article that says: FORT LAUDERDALE, Fla.-The dietary establishment has long' argued that it's impossible, but a new study offers intriguing evidence that people on low carbohydrate diets can actually eat more than people on standard low-fat regimen and still lose weight. The study, directed by Penelope Greene of the Harvard School of Public Health and presented at a meeting here this week of the American Association for the Study of Obesity, found that people eating an extra 300 calories a day on a very low-carb regimen lost just as much during a 12-week study as those on a standard low-fat diet. Over the course of the study, they consumed an extra 25,000 calories. That should have added up to about seven pounds. But for some reason, it didn't. "There does indeed seem to be something about a low-carb diet that says you can eat more calories and lose a similar amount of weight," Dr. Greene said. That strikes at one of the most revered beliefs in nutrition: A calorie is a calorie is a calorie. It doesn't matter whether they come from bacon or mashed potatoes; they all go on the waistline in just the same way. Not even Dr. Greene says this settles the case, but some at the meeting found her report fascinating. "A lot of our assumptions about a calorie is a calorie are being challenged," said Marlene Schwartz of Yale. "As scientists, we need to be open-minded." Others, though, found the data hard to swallow. "it doesn't make sense, does it?" said Barbara Rolls of Pennsylvania State University. "It violates the laws of thermodynamics. No one has ever found any miraculous metabolic effects." In the study, 21 overweight volunteers were divided into three categories: Two groups were randomly assigned to either lowfat or low-carb diets with 1,500 calories for women and 1,800 for men; a third group was also low-carb but got all extra 300 calories a day. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY http://hbd.org/pcalinsk *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 12:06:09 -0400 From: "Jay Spies" <jayspies at citywidehomeloans.com> Subject: aerating dried yeast / kegging All - Just my .02 on dried yeasts.....I'm personally a big fan of Danstar products. I find them very cost effective, reliable, efficient, and incredibly easy to use. When I'm making an ale that has a minimal yeast profile like an APA, I tend to use Nottingham, and I never aerate. They always ferment well, and I've brewed probably 50+ batches this way. They're so cheap also that I just pitch 'em down the drain after I'm through pitchin' em in the wort. As for how much they can do w/o aeration, try this on for size: I just made a Cyser a few weeks ago with 4 gallons of unpasteurized cider, 9 pounds of honey and some spices.... I pitched (4) 11g packs of Danstar Windsor (not known to be a tremendous attenuator - I wanted to have a little residual sugar) in ~5 gallons of must and those little beasties took it from an OG of 1.102 to a FG of 1.002 in 5 days ***without aeration of any kind***. Take that for what you will, but I take it to mean that they're pretty healthy little critters as long as you rehydrate then correctly. And they're dirt cheap, comparatively. On kegging... Usually I purge the sanitizer out of my kegs with CO2 so there's no residual O2, and then rack in through the out poppet, leaving the release open or an open gas disconnect on the other poppet. As long as you have a keg full of CO2, it doesn't matter a bit that the keg is only 3/5 full, or 1/4 full, or whatever... Racking to an empty keg through an open lid may be ok as long as you purge and vent about 4 - 6 times, but I'd distrust it with a keg only half full. Gases will mix, and I'd only recommend the vent/purge thing if you have a keg that's got very little headspace left...O2 is the absolute enemy of fermented beer. Side note - I always initially pressurize my newly-full kegs to about 35 or 40 psi to seal them up. You can hear the poppets and such go <pink!>. Then I hook up normal carb pressure and wait a week. No leaks... ...my .02 Jay Spies Charm City Altobrewery Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 08:09:28 -0800 From: Christopher Swingley <cswingle at iarc.uaf.edu> Subject: Re: Gravity samples, decarbonating Domenick (and everyone else who wrote), * Demonick <demonickatzgi.com> [2003-Oct-13 06:05 AKDT]: > > Next, I put the samples in the microwave, each for a minute and a > > half. When removed they were bubbling slightly and had reached > > 180 F (not boiling). > > My guess is that some of the ethanol evaporated out of solution. I'm sure you're right. That thought hadn't occurred to me as I was heating it to near the boiling point of *water*. > A better way to decarbonate is to simply shake the sample at room > temperature. Do this a number of times and let sit in between shaking > bouts. Pick a protocol and stick to it. For example, shake 60 seconds, > then let stand 5 miutes. Repeat 3 times. Measure SG. I think you're right that this is a good method. I tried the blender method on Sunday, and while I'm sure it decarbonates, it also results in foam that takes all day to dissipate. I still got a two point gravity increase using the blender method, but in this case it was probably because the alcohol evaporated during the twelve hours I had to wait for the bubbles to go away. I expect I'll have some good head retention in these beers! Thanks to everyone who responded. Summary: shake the samples, or slosh them between two containers to decarbonate. Heating results in alcohol evaporation. The blender results in a big pile of beer foam. Chris - -- Christopher S. Swingley email: cswingle at iarc.uaf.edu IARC -- Frontier Program Please use encryption. GPG key at: University of Alaska Fairbanks www.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu/~cswingle/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 12:33:36 -0600 From: "Mike Racette" <mike.racette at hydro-gardens.com> Subject: sulfites On Mon, 13 Oct 2003 08:40: dan.morey said: "Unless you are getting your fruit directly from the vineyard, they have probably been treated with sulfites to prevent fermentation/spoilage during shipping. As for the juice, check the packaging. The juice I bought last year was sulfated. Check the pH of the must and use the minimum level of sulfite to suppress wild yeasts and bacteria. Sulfites added after the crush to control wild yeasts will diminish over time. Skip sulfites at bottling, as these take a long time to dissipate. For additional information, I recommend Jeff Cox's book From Vines to Wines." First of all, there's a lot of differences in opinion on when and how to add sulfites. I would agree with all of what Dan said except that I think bottling is the most important time to measure and adjust sulfites. This is when you need to be most concerned about oxidation. I don't remember if Jeff Cox is recommending skipping sulfites at bottling or not, (even if one is trying to minimize sulfite usage) but I doubt it. I have a copy of his book at home and will try to remember to check this. Here's a link to the rec.crafts.winemaking discussion group which might give you more detailed answers to these questions. http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&safe=off&group=rec.crafts.winemaking Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 19:44:07 -0400 From: "Kerry and Dell Drake" <arcticmallards at cox.net> Subject: Brussels Greetings All: I'm off to Brussels soon (mostly work) and wondered if anyone could send me beer related tour/brewery/bar suggestions. Thanks, Kerry Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 19:03:39 -0700 From: "Steve Dale-Johnson" <sdalejohnson at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Kegging Question/Keg purging Gregory Morris asks "...would it be ok to blow CO2 through the liquid valve on my ball-lock keg, and let air out of the gas valve? Would this work?" I do this as standard procedure when kegging to purge the headspace before starting to carbonate. You need to be careful as the co2 connector will leak gas if not held tightly and forced on too far will jam. I just connect so it feels right and hold open the blowoff valve to purge. Do not do this for too long, though or you will strip the hop aroma from your beer (or get foam shooting out the blowoff valve). Steve Dale-Johnson Brewing at 1918 miles, 298 degrees Delta (Vancouver), BC, Canada. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 19:31:06 -0700 From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net> Subject: Bottling yeast for lambic I've been looking for a bottle refermentation yeast for lambic. Stats on papers like this (Anita Van Lardschoot, Dept. of Ind. Sci., Belgium) are typical: Safbrew T-31 good to 11% abv. "" T-58 "" 8.5% "" S-33 "" "" "" B-28 "" "" Safale K-97 "" 6.5% "" S-04 "" "" Saflager S-23 "" "" "" S-189 "" 5.5% **"Note: No dry yeast is capable of producing satisfactory referment in acid Belgian beer."** So how do y'all bottle your lambics? Kraeusen at bottling? Thanks, Chad Stevens QUAFF San Diego Return to table of contents
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