HOMEBREW Digest #439 Thu 14 June 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Starting a siphon (Lal George)
  testing (Ted Manahan)
  Starting Siphons (Eric Pepke)
  liquid yeast (nntas)
  Weiss/Weizen (spelling and definition) (Chip Hitchcock)
  Chill Out, Jay (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Sparging Speed (Norm Hardy)
  Re: Siphoning and Bottle Filling (John Polstra)
  keg floaters (florianb)
  Lager Yeasts (Norm Hardy)
  Time to start old liquid yeast. (bryan)
  dry yeast data (florianb)
  Siphoning and Bottle Filling (Tom Wurtz)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 13 Jun 90 05:24:05 -0600 From: george%avocet at cs.utah.edu (Lal George) Subject: Starting a siphon I have read several articles where people have said, ".. the only problem right now is that I have to start the siphon using my mouth"!! You *never* have to start any siphon using your mouth. - Fill the siphon tube with tap water. - Clamp down on the one of the open ends of the tube with your thumb. This may introduce air bubbles but is usually of no consequence. - Stick the open end into the transfer case with the other end still clamped. - Release the clamped end when ready to bottle, first draining out the water in the siphon. Simple. Lal. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 90 06:36:01 mdt From: Ted Manahan <hplabs!hpldola.cos.hp.com!hpldodt!tedm> Subject: testing Full-Name: Ted Manahan This is a test. I haven't received a homebrew digest for over a week. Is anyone out there? Ted Manahan tedm at hpldola.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 1990 10:08:51 EDT From: PEPKE at scri1.scri.fsu.edu (Eric Pepke) Subject: Starting Siphons The way I start beer siphons is just to fill the tube with sterile water. Hold both ends at the same level while you carry it to the beer. Put one end in the beer and lower the other end. First the water will run out of the tube, pushed by the beer behind it. Then the beer will come out. This works great and requires little effort. Eric Pepke INTERNET: pepke at gw.scri.fsu.edu Supercomputer Computations Research Institute MFENET: pepke at fsu Florida State University SPAN: scri::pepke Tallahassee, FL 32306-4052 BITNET: pepke at fsu Disclaimer: My employers seldom even LISTEN to my opinions. Meta-disclaimer: Any society that needs disclaimers has too many lawyers. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 90 07:31:19 PDT From: nntas at robots.span.nasa.gov Subject: liquid yeast Dave, In answer to your question on liquid yeast availability I have found a 'local' supplier who regularly carries a wide variety of the stuff. I put local in quotes because the shop is in the Rockville area and I don't know where you are. If this is too far there is a mail order place in North Carolina that sells Wyeast of all types that's called American Brewmasters. I'll send you the address tomorrow. The benefit of ordering something from a nearby mail order shop(North Carolina is considered nearby by UPS) are quick delivery and low shipping costs. By the way this is also a great place to get extract from because of their discount policy. Tim Sauerwein Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 90 11:15:40 EDT From: ileaf!io!peoria!cjh at EDDIE.MIT.EDU (Chip Hitchcock) Subject: Weiss/Weizen (spelling and definition) "weiss" (="white"), a pale, tart-tasting beer, sometimes weak, made with a small percentage of malted wheat. Sour enough that it's frequently sweetened with raspberry or woodruff syrup. Mostly made in northeastern Germany, hence "Berlinerweiss" (which sometimes refers only to beer+syrup. "Berlinerweiss" is offered at a couple of Germanesque restaurants in Boston, but I don't know whether it starts with a real weiss). "weizen" (="wheat--"), a beer made with 50-67% wheat malt, but otherwise much like barley beers. (The upper limit comes partly from the shortage of enzymes in wheat---you need some barley in order to get a reasonable amount of sugar out of the mash in a reasonable time.) I'm not sure what "weissen" would be---maybe a beer made with plaster? white lead? :-) I don't know the AHA categories, but it wouldn't be reasonable to judge a beer about as sour as a Belgian lambic against a clove-y but otherwise more standard brew, unless you dump both of them into a specialty category. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 90 10:31:32 PDT From: dreger at seismo.gps.caltech.edu A number of people have indicated that they begin their siphoning via their mouth. There is a simple solution to this. First sanitize your hose assembly in chlorine or your favorite sanitizing agent. With weak chlorine solutions there is no need to rinse, but many people do. Since the hose will be rinsed, simply fill it up with water from the faucet so that there are very few air bubbles. Place your thumb at the end so the water doesn't leak and incert the wort end into the wort. Keeping the bottle end lower than the surface of the wort and removing your finger allows the flow to begin. I usually let the tube run into an extra pan until all of the initial water is gone, and then continue to siphon. Doug Dreger Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 90 12:13:13 PDT From: Martin A. Lodahl <hplabs!pbmoss!mal> Subject: Chill Out, Jay In HOMEBREW Digest #433, Florian Bell said: >While Jay's on the subject of irrelevant data, may I say two things? > > 1 I apologize for the dream sequence ... I was afraid it would come to this. I hope Florian meant that ironically. I've enjoyed many postings, yes, even the dream sequence, that were not strictly on the homebrewing subject. I'd hate to see what has been a marvelously free flow of information from the readers of this digest suddenly shrivel, blasted by flames from a reader who was looking for something else. As Ken Weiss pointed out, we can always page past what doesn't interest us. Jay is no more the Digest Content God than I am, and I disagree categorically with what he seems to be trying to accomplish. The preceding meta-comment has been personal opinion only. = Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff = = pacbell!pbmoss!mal -or- mal at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 90 20:01:19 PDT From: hplabs!polstra!norm (Norm Hardy) Subject: Sparging Speed A mention of a 15-20 minutes TOTAL sparge was made, and the complaint of low gravity yields. Hey, at that speed, 1.045 was not bad at all. Another word for homebrew sparging is PATIENCE. I would recommend 8-12 minutes wort flow per GALLON, remembering that the first 2-4 gallons will have to be recirculated until the wort runs clear. I also suggest putting some kind of insulation around and above the sparge buckets to help retain the heat. Aim for about 170f for grains (mash out) and sparge water. One more item, as Dave Miller writes in his find book, make sure the grain bed is flush against the wall of the buckets. The use of a sparge bag may negate the need for this. Good luck....Norm Hardy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 90 09:39:20 PDT From: hplabs!polstra!jdp (John Polstra) Subject: Re: Siphoning and Bottle Filling In HBD #435, Paul Bigelow <bigelow at hppad> wrote: > The weakness in my production line is bottle filling. Has anyone found > a really good technique or equipment? > > I have a spring loaded bottle filler tube that attaches to the end of > my siphon hose, but it is way too slow (insufficient flow). Hmmmm ... I also use a spring loaded bottle filler, and it works fine. I couldn't imagine doing without it any more. I'd suggest that you get yourself a longer siphon hose, and place the wort higher up somehow, so that you get more pressure during bottling. - John Polstra jdp at polstra.uucp Polstra & Co., Inc. practic!polstra!jdp at uunet.uu.net Seattle, Washington USA ...{uunet,sun,pyramid}!practic!polstra!jdp (206) 932-6482 Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Jun 90 12:49:21 PDT (Wed) From: florianb at tekred.cna.tek.com Subject: keg floaters Some time back, someone posted a method for installing a floating system in a keg. The purpose was to prevent tapping off the bottom of the keg (Cornelius system) and sucking up yeast. Could the person who described this system please post it again or send me a copy? Thanks very much. Florian. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 90 20:30:47 PDT From: hplabs!polstra!norm (Norm Hardy) Subject: Lager Yeasts A mention was made of Wyeast lagers stopping fermentation below 57f. You might not be aware of the slow ferment actually going on. I regularly refrigerate the lagers once the ferment has vigorously kicked in (at 60f). At 40f, the ferment causes the airlock to tick over once every 10 to 15 seconds until it eventually slows to once a minute, when I rack. Typical times for the primary ferment range from 3 weeks to 6 weeks. The better beers seem to be rackable on the shorter side of that time line. Also, I've never had to add secondary yeast when bottling. I keep the bottled beers at 48f and wait 3 weeks before trying one. The carbonation effected at the lower temperature makes for some nicely aesthetic pours with firm billowy heads (Brussel's lace I think). Anyway, that's the way it is, for me. Norm Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Jun 90 13:54:17 PDT (Wed) From: bryan at tekgen.bv.tek.com Subject: Time to start old liquid yeast. Just a note that may be of interest. I started a Wyeast American Ale yeast that was dated December. It took 3 days to show any signs of swelling, then swelled to tight in 1 more day. For brewers in the Portland Or. area, due to excessive worrying I have that same packet of American Ale yeast, swelled and ready to pitch, if anyone want's it, call in the next day or so. It's in the fridge now. Bryan Olson bryan at tekgen.BV.TEK.COM 640-6874 Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Jun 90 12:38:23 PDT (Wed) From: florianb%tekred.cna.tek.com at RELAY.CS.NET Subject: dry yeast data The following data were taken from the F. H. Steinbart Newsletter, Vol. II, No. 2, Fall 1988, which quotes the earlier article "Active Dry Yeasts for Small Brewers," Dr. W. M. Ingledew and Nick Hazen, The New Brewer, July- August 1986, pp. 14-15. Trade Name Viable Cnt. Viable Cnt. Viable Cnt Yeast Culture Yst. Wild Yst. Bacteria _________ _________ _________ _________ Doric 3.8 x 10^9 < 100 1.2 x 10^5 RS Lager 1.2 x 10^10 < 100 < 100 RS Ale 1.1 x 10^10 1.0 x 10^3 < 100 Great Dane Lgr 8.6 x 10^9 < 100 1.5 x 10^3 Great Dane Ale 1.4 x 10^10 5.2 x 10^3 9.7 x 10^3 Vierka Lager 9.5 x 10^9 < 100 3.1 x 10^3 Vierka Dark 1.1 x 10^10 1.6 x 10^2 8.3 x 10^2 Muntona Ale 1.3 x 10^10 3.0 x 10^2 3.1 x 10^4 EDME Ale 1.4 x 10^10 3.3 x 10^2 3.3 x 10^4 Notes: (1) Viable count culture yeast in wort agar (2) Viable count wild yeast in lysine agar (3) Viable count bacteria in tomato juice actidione agar ____________ Notice that the RS lager purity exceeds all others. Of course this chart says nothing about how the yeasts perform. Neither can we be sure that these data are current. It would be wonderful if we could get similar data on the liquid yeasts. Florian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 90 16:28:44 MDT From: hplabs!gatech!cadnetix.com!wurtz (Tom Wurtz) Subject: Siphoning and Bottle Filling In #435 Paul Bigelow(who has permanently sticky floors) writes: >I have a spring loaded bottle filler tube that attaches to the end of >my siphon hose, but it is way too slow (insufficient flow). If I just use >the siphon hose and clamp it by bending the tube, I get a small flood of >beer on the floor. The last few inches of the tube below the clamping point >that go down into the bottle always release their contents when the tube is >inbetween bottles. The top end of the siphon hose is always guaranteed >to slither out of the pail part way through the bottling operation, >in spite of (often unsanitary) attempts to tape the hose down. I have been slowly perfecting a way to Siphon and bottle over several different batches. The latest uses a tee, which one end goes up into my mouth to start the siphon. That end also has a hose clamp on it that I press on when the flow gets going. When siphoning I use a clamp on the other end that is clamped while sucking. When I want to start siphoning, I unclamp and watch. When bottling I use the bottle filler as Paul has already mentioned and it is already attatched to the other end while I suck. Of course since the clamps I use come in contact with the liquid occasionally everything is sanitized together beforehand. So far I have had very good success with this method and plan to keep using it, however now that I have the clamps I may try the filled hose approach sometime just for comparison sake. Tom Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #439, 06/14/90 ************************************* -------
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