HOMEBREW Digest #4445 Tue 06 January 2004

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Your Company Name and Contact Info Here!
  Visit http://hbd.org/sponsorhbd_table.shtml for more info!

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Re: Carbo Calories (huh - what did they say ?) ("-S")
  Carbs /  what about high protein beer (Don Van Valkenburg)
  Re: Link of the Week - Jan 3 2004 - drunk ("Greg 'groggy' Lehey")
  Final Bar Rinse ("Eric R. Theiner")
  re: Of barrels and beer ("Doug Hurst")
  RE: removing keg labels ("Jamil Zainasheff")
  catching up--oak, cider, caustic, and the like (Marc Sedam)
  Kegging (D.T.)" <dpeters3@ford.com>
  Portland, OR and football (Marc Sedam)
  re: barrels (Rama Roberts)
  Competition Announcement / Call for judges and stewards (MOREY Dan)
  pump cflow control valve for use with PID (mike4nospam)
  Wombat Stew Or Wombat Brew? ("Phil Yates")
  Competition Announcement - Big Bend Brewoff ("Martin Brungard")
  A brief return to bottling (Nathan J. Williams)
  infection or Alpha overdose ?? ("Webb, Mike")
  Rewiring Johnson's "The Controller" ("Neil Spake")
  removing keg labels ("Steve Holden")
  Re: Copper and sodium hydroxide ("Sean Richens")
  Invert Sugar Procedure and HBD Search Index (rickdude02)
  Wascawy Wombats and Leach Like Labels (Jeremy Struffert)
  Double Enghien Brune Clone ("Chad Stevens")

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 01:15:42 -0500 From: "-S" <-s at adelphia.net> Subject: Re: Carbo Calories (huh - what did they say ?) AJ deLange writes ..., > HBS&Y are of the opinion that the upper range of protein concentration > in beer is 0.63%. AJ and I are (I think) agreeing to the same facts in different terms, and coming to different conclusions. I wrote: -S>Nitrogen sources (protein, amino acids, DNA, RNA) alone amount to 5% -S>to 6% of sweet wort extract. 5% of EXTRACT mass is indeed about 0.63% of BEER mass for conventional strength and attenuation beers. We agree ! I purposely chose extract mass as the basis since the amount of protein that remains is approximately proportional to the original extract, and not related directly to the beer mass. This makes the calculation more clear I think. === > Ash constitutes no more than a couple of tenths of a > % as well. Not so fast - that's tenths of a percent of beer mass, not extract and not gravity. M&BS pp 207 table 7.6 shows analysis of 2 lagers and 2 ales and each has about 1.2 grams of mineral content per liter. Kunze cites similar numbers on pp 563. That's 1% of extract mass as mineral for a conventional gravity beer. I don't have figures for the specific major beer ions (K, Mg, phosphate, sulfate, chloride), but other soluble minerals have very high density in solution as compared to sucrose. For example a 1P sodium carbonate sol'n gives an SG of 1.0089 (not the 1.0039 of sucrose). If this relation holds at lower concentrations of the other ions, then the 0.12P of beer minerals contribute about 1 SG degree to beer's final gravity ! If that was the only issue I'd ignore it, but it is around 5% of final extract. === Back to the REAL issue of simple carbohydrate (Atkins) calories in beer. > Ignoring these is certainly an adequate approximation for > those who calculate alcohol content and true extract from OG and FG > measurements, especially if those are done with a hydrometer. I can't agree. The mineral content, because of it's high density compared to sucrose, will approach 1SG degree in gravity and the protein will account for some ~2.5 SG degrees [AJ's 0.63% (0.63P) converted to gravity] . If you read a final gravity of 1.012, and account for the ethanol and determine that the effective gravity ignoring the ethanol is around 16 SG points - then you consider that 3 or 4 of those 16 SG degrees are non-carbohydrate this is not an ignorable contribution to final gravity and real final extract. >If more accuracy is required the beer must be [..] There is little point in getting more accurate numbers while you ignoring terms that add to perhaps 20% or 25% of the whole. AJ posted the equivalent of ... CarboCalories_per_100ml = 4 * (rep - ash) * fsg then tells us to ignore the ash, giving: 1/ CarboCalories_per_100ml = 4 * (rep) * fsg Kunze pp 563-564 discusses beer constituents. He states bluntly, "The extract of beer consists of 75%-80% carbohydrate, in particular dextrins (maltotetraose, maltopentaose,) and very little maltotriose. 6% to 9% nitrogenous compounds, 4% to 5% glycerol(glycerine) and also B-glucans, inorganic compounds, phenolic compounds, and bitter substances, organic acids, and a number of compounds [...]". If we believe in Kunze's statement then the carbohydrate calories are only 75% to 80% of the real_final extract. Kunze's version of the Carbo_calorie eqn would be 2/ CarboCal_per_100ml = from 4 * (0.75 * rep) * fsg to 4 * (0.80 * rep) * fsg I posted previously: 3/ CarboCal_per_100ml = 4 * (rep - 0.1*oep) * fsg ============= Consider a beer that begins with 1.048SG wort and ends with 1.012 apparent gravity. The real final extract is about 4.7P. Original extract(oep) is nominally 12P and fsg is 1.012 . AJ calculates: 1'/ CarboCal_per_100ml = 4 * 4.7 * 1.012 = 19Cal/100ml Kunze's range is: 2'/ CarboCal_per_100ml = 4 * ([0.75-0.80] * 4.7) * 1.012 = 14.26Cal to 15.22 Cal/100ml My posted eqn gives: 3'/ CarboCal_per_100ml = 4 * (4.7 - 0.1*12) * 1.012 = 14.17Cal/100ml I'm perfectly willing to accept that my estimate is around 1% below the low-end of Kunze's range and so is probably too low by several percent. Clearly something is very wrong with AJs equation which ignores terms that place him 25% above the Kunze high-end of the Calorie range. If AJ included the terms he ignores (0.2P ash and 0.63P protein) he'd get within a few percent of Kunze's high-end. The remaining error is primarily from ignoring the substantial amounts of glycerol (~1.5gm per liter) in beer. Glycerol is technically a carbohydrate, but is not considered in Atkin's diet as it has a low glycemic index and is not rapidly converted to glucose. similar to mannitol, sorbitol and sugar alcohols. ===== > "Beer has about 90% of the total calories as its unfermented wort !" I > guess that's a testament to the relative efficiencies of oxidative > phosphorylation as opposed to fermentation. That depends on what you mean by *efficiency*. Respiration extracts much more energy than fermentation to acetaldehyde (and then to ethanol) or in the mammalian anaerobic conversion of glucose to lactate in muscle tissue. Brewing yeast can efficiently respire ethanol given some oxygen, so it's not really lost energy so much as reserved for later use. The problem w/ mammalian respiration is that it's so d*mned slow that it cannot meet the high and variable power demands for muscular activity. Anaerobic glycolysis (similar to fermentation), producing lactate is the primary energy system for rapid muscle demands. Mammals may then turn around and expend 3 times the released energy converting lactate back into precious glucose stored as pancreatic and muscular glycogen(starch) if other carbohydrates are not available. This highly inefficient method of keeping carbo stores intact is called the Cori cycle. Of course even this sort of inefficency means "lost" energy is converted into potentially useful body heat. Respiration is more efficient in extracting energy from glucose, but anaerobic glycolysis is more efficient at producing power (energy per unit time) and certainly in making beer ! -S Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 22:22:06 -0800 From: Don Van Valkenburg <brewing at earthlink.net> Subject: Carbs / what about high protein beer Bill from brewbyyou.net makes some good points about carbs. But what about protein? The following comments are from Charlie Papazian made in the AOB forum: "Part of the Atkins diet as I understand it, is about low carbs and high proteins. Has anyone figured out how much more protein there is (percentage wise) in unfiltered beer than filtered, chillproofed beer? High Protein Beer? - Yes I realize the protein levels are relatively insignificant, but then the "lower" carb levels of low carb beers is also relatively insignificant. Also interesting to me is that low carb, could imply a health benefit. I thought that there were label restrictions on promoting health benefits of beer. Seems like the agency has lost their opportunity to reject "low carbohydrate" as a health benefit in having already approved Low Carb beers on the marketplace." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 17:03:00 +1030 From: "Greg 'groggy' Lehey" <grog at lemis.com> Subject: Re: Link of the Week - Jan 3 2004 - drunk On Saturday, 3 January 2004 at 13:09:50 -0700, Bob Devine wrote: > BTW, how much alcohol is too much? You will be amazed at this story: > http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&cid=573&e=3&u=/nm/drunk_dc "The unidentified middle-aged man was unconscious but stable after a blood test showed 7.22 parts per million of alcohol, police spokeswoman Ieva Zvidre said. " We must have some pretty resistant people here in Australia, then. You're allowed to drive a car up to 0.05% of alcohol in your blood, which makes 500 ppm, and many people are caught exceeding this limit. My idiot nephew fell off a car last month (see http://wwww.lemis.com/grog/Photos-20031225.html#Nathan) and was measured with 3000 odd ppm. In fact, this is almost certainly a mistranslation of "promille", parts per thousand. That would correspond to 0.722 % or 7220 ppm, which is certainly impressive. It's clear that he couldn't have done that on beer alone. Greg - -- Finger grog at lemis.com for PGP public key. See complete headers for address and phone numbers. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 09:58:35 -0500 From: "Eric R. Theiner" <rickdude02 at earthlink.net> Subject: Final Bar Rinse Someone asked about a product called "Smart & Final Bar Rinse" from Sam's. The only two sanitizers that I know of in the Smart & Final line (they're a low-cost food service vendor) are not good for brewing applications. The first is bleach, which is suitable for no-rinse sanitizing in restaurants (at 50ppm, drip dry is all that is required), but obviously not something that you want to use as a no-rinse product. The second is a quaternary ammonium chloride-based compound, which is basically a detergent that destroys microbes. Again, you don't want trace amounts of this product coming into contact with your beer. Rick Theiner LOGIC, Inc. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 09:58:11 -0600 From: "Doug Hurst" <dougbeer2000 at hotmail.com> Subject: re: Of barrels and beer Steve wrote: >Like the pepper-beer thread - this is only my personal opinion of >beer flavor. And like the pepper-beer thread I'm going to suggest that you simply haven't had the right oak aged beer. I would suggest that oak aging doesn't suit light lagers, pale ales, and may not even a standard IPA. It does, however, seem to work well with really big beers like Barley Wines, Old Ales, Imperial Stout, and some "Imperial" IPAs. The oak characteristics add a wonderful additional complexity to these styles. Think vanilla and slightly smoky or toasty tannic dryness in a big sweet malty beer. Those who attended the Barrel Aged Beer Festival in Chicago early last spring would attest that oak aged beers can be amazing. There were certainly some beers at that fest which seemed overwhelmed by the oak, but there were as many that really benefitted from the oak. Most, if not all the beers at the fest were very big beers. The trick, I think, is to determine how long to leave the beer on the oak. Just finishing the last few bottles of my Habenero filled Winter Warmer. Doug Hurst Chicago, IL [197.5, 264.8] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 08:15:50 -0800 From: "Jamil Zainasheff" <jamilz at citlink.net> Subject: RE: removing keg labels > Any suggestions for removing lables that are glued onto stainless steel > Corny kegs? I've been soaking in an ammonia solution for several days > (which works well for bottle labels, BTW) but this doesn't seem to help. It depends on the type of label. Some come off with heat, some need to be "chipped" off. Heat the label by filling the keg with HOT water. Let it sit for 30 minutes or so. Once the adhesive softens, peel the label off. You can use Goo Gone or a similar product to remove the adhesive residue once the keg cools. If it doesn't respond to heat, then the only simple thing I've found is to chip the label off with a plastic knife or similar tool. Score the field of the label, then start chipping away. (You can try scoring the field and then soaking with Goo Gone. Might work.) JZ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 11:24:56 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: catching up--oak, cider, caustic, and the like Back in the lab, we used a 3% NaOH solution to help get gunk out of our tanks. Used hot (160F) it makes a surprisingly good cleaner and an effective inhibiter of bacterial growth. A quick rinse with boiling water is useful and recommended. ******************************************* I made a very easy and very tasty cider a few months back by blending 2:1 fermented cider with unfermented juice (I used Whole Foods' organic cider). The cider was bone dry, but blended with the fresh juice it has a nice sweetness and apple-y taste, and is moderately low in alcohol (about 4%). I put this in a 3 gallon keg and kept it below 40F so it wouldn't ferment further. If you wanted to bottle this I don't suppose it would work well. OTOH, you could rack the cider to a secondary and add a couple of Campden tabs and wait a few days, then add the juice and bottle. Since the juice is pasteurized it should be free of wild yeasts at the time you add to the cider. ***************************************** On to the oak barrel fun... Just to rehash, the barrel I received from Santa was (1) new, (2) Hungarian oak, and (3) had a medium toast char. So much of the discussion of new (i.e. green) oak barrels isn't germane to my particular instance, but was useful to know. Seems the best way to clean the barrels and get some of the oak out is to soak the barrels (after they've been conditioned with cold water) with Oxiclean or some other sodium carbonate/percarbonate cleanser. That helps leach some of the tannins out. Then a rinse with citric acid helps neutralize anything left. I have all the info at home and will post something with real numbers in case anyone cares. Sulfur strips were not recommended for beer. But to Steve's point on why to age beer in wood. Personally I have three reasons. (1) Why not?; (2) it was a very great gift from a very great brother; and (3) it's different from what I normally do. I do understand that for much of time brewers have been trying to get away from wood aging. But let's not forget that some of that is likely due to the lower cost, over the life of the vessel, of using stainless or copper. I agree that for lighter styles like lagers and pale ales that any oaky character would not only be out of place, but ruinous for the beer. Use of a charred oak barrel for darker or richer styles of beer might, however, be an interesting undertaking. I could see an Imperial IPA doing well in the wood, as would an export stout or a rich and meaty porter. Now I'm not saying to store the beer for 6 months in the barrel for your first use, just like you'd never store a chardonnay in a new barrel for more than a week or two. I envision a judicious use of oak to be something worth pursuing. My other thought on the barrel was to keep it used for something more traditional...like an oud bruin...and use Jeff R's concept of a "solera ale". Basically I would be perpetually taking out 5 gallons of oud bruin and filling it with 5 gallons of fresh wort (same recipe) and hope to approach something like Rodenbach. I'm even considering having its first use be 15 gallons of chianti, then switching over to the beer, to reduce the oakiness some. Who knows? But I think there's a place for wood-aged beer in today's brewing. It's up to us homebrewers to figure out exactly how to do it. Like most experimentation, it's something to do with a judiciously light hand. But certainly worth trying. I think I'll make a low-carb, wood-aged, habanero beer to send to Steve...KIDDING! But I will use the barrel frequently and report back. - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:33:35 -0500 From: "Peters, David (D.T.)" <dpeters3 at ford.com> Subject: Kegging Apparently I sucked up too much yeast when I transferred my pilsener to my corny keg. It is very cloudy. I had hoped that it would settle out in short order. But, a week later it has not improved. Can I add any particular clearing agents into the keg to clarify the beer? What would be the recommended agent and procedure? Would I then need to re-rack the beer or just pour off a cup or two. How long should I give the process to work? David T. Peters Northville, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 13:20:24 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: Portland, OR and football Hey all, An impromptu meeting will leave me in Portland, OR on Sunday...over 3,000 miles away from my beloved Eagles. Can anyone recommend a bar with good beer selection in town (I'll be at the Marriott with no car) that would also likely have the game prominently displayed? - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 10:38:11 -0800 (PST) From: Rama Roberts <rama at sun.com> Subject: re: barrels Hi Marc, been catching up on the HBD, and your post about oak barrels. I've been meaning to play around with oak and beers too, but have put it off for over a year (my initial plan was to use French oak chips in a split batch of IPA, one oaked, one not). If I had a barrel, I think I would do a oud bruin as you hinted at. New Belgium Brewing Company in Colorado produces a beer called La Folie, which is a "wood aged beer": http://www.newbelgium.com/beer_lafolie.shtml Its "laid down in wood barrels previously used to store burgundy wine" for 1-3 years. Perhaps the winemakers in the crowd can say how much oakiness would be left in a barrel that age. I haven't personally tried this beer, but if its anything like Rodenbach, then it'd be one of my favorites. Maybe you can pull off and bottle part of the aged ale, and top with wort (rather than completely draining the barrel), so you've always got a healthy supply of sour ale beasties. I think Jeff Renner posted something a few months ago about using this technique. - --rama SF bay area Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 13:10:21 -0600 From: MOREY Dan <dan.morey at cnh.com> Subject: Competition Announcement / Call for judges and stewards ATTENTION BREWERS, MARK YOUR CALENDERS! BABBLE and The Onion Pub and Brewery are pleased to present the AHA/BJCP sanctioned BABBLE Leap Beer Brew Off. The Leap Beer Brew Off will be held Saturday, February 28, 2004 at The Onion Pub and Brewery in Lake Barrington, IL. All BJCP beer, mead, and cider categories will be accepted. Schedule: February 7-21, 2004 entries accepted. February 28, 2004 9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. judging The Onion Pub and Brewery 22221 Pepper Road Lake Barrington, IL 60010 Rules, entry forms, and bottle labels can be downloaded from BABBLE website: http://hbd.org/babble/ We need BJCP accredited judges for this event. Novice judges are welcome and will be teamed with experienced judges. Experience points will be awarded through the BJCP Organization based on the number of entries received. Those wishing to judge should contact: Judge Director Scott Clement (847) 587-5320 (preferred contact) scottrandi.clement at worldnet.att.net (Please use phone first) Stewards are also needed. Those wishing to steward should contact: Head Steward Aaron Slocum (847) 973-2598 AJSlocum007 at msn.com Please see BABBLE website http://hbd.org/babble/ for additional information. Other inquiries should be directed to: Organizer Scott Lasky (312) 603-0263 scottlasky at hotmail.com Dan Morey Club B.A.B.B.L.E. http://hbd.org/babble [213.1, 271.5] mi Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 16:12:31 -0600 From: mike4nospam at centurytel.net Subject: pump cflow control valve for use with PID I've got two mag pumps and a PID controller on the way for my HERMS (I love ebay). I plan to use the controller to manage the flow of heating water through the heat exchanger. (flow of wort will be manually controlled with pump #2). My question is how to use the SSR output from the PID to control the flow rate of the pump. I know that the ideal is a valve downstream from the pump. Has anyone got experiece doing this that they can share? Mike Schrempp Gig Harbor, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 10:32:20 +1100 From: "Phil Yates" <phil.yates at bigpond.com> Subject: Wombat Stew Or Wombat Brew? Last comment on this subject of silliness before Pat's big hammer comes down on my head with "Enough is enough!" I've had private emails on the subject ranging from: "Why don't you eat them?" to "Are they too big to fit in the kettle?". Being an experimental brewer, I could be tempted to discover what fermented wombat tastes like. But somehow I suspect the fur caught on the back of the throat would destroy the otherwise delicate flavours of a fine rice lager. Where is Brian Lundeen on the subject? Last I heard he was engaged in verbal sword fighting with an Aussie Homebrew shop owner. Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 14:29:12 -0900 From: "Martin Brungard" <mabrungard at hotmail.com> Subject: Competition Announcement - Big Bend Brewoff The North Florida Brewers League is hosting the AHA-sanctioned, Big Bend Brewoff in beautiful Tallahassee, Florida. This is the 8th edition of this annual event. Expert judging and feedback for beers, meads, and ciders will be provided by BJCP-qualified judges from across the Southeast U.S. The competition date is January 24, 2004. Competition entries are being accepted now through January 17th. Rules, forms, contacts, and addresses for the competition are available at the following link: http://www.nfbl.org/BBBO2004/ We welcome your participation as both entrants and judges! There will be a pre-competition party on Friday, January 23rd at Beef O'Bradys for all participants. Please review the Judge Information document on our website for information about the party. If there are other questions, please feel free to contact me at this email address. Martin Brungard Competition Coordinator Big Bend Brewoff 2004 Tallahassee, FL Return to table of contents
Date: 05 Jan 2004 18:59:30 -0500 From: nathanw at MIT.EDU (Nathan J. Williams) Subject: A brief return to bottling I've been brewing sporadically for about two years now, and a year ago switched to kegging instead of bottling. Aside from an initial spike in consumption, I've been very pleased with the results of kegging and force-carbonating, and I haven't had a reason to look back. However, I'd like to enter my current batch into a competition, which of course wants bottles. Here are what I see as my options: (a) Bottle the whole batch, just like in the bad old days. Slow, tedious, but probably reliable, and I know that what I'm submitting to the competition is the same as what I'm drinking. (b) Keg as usual, and get a counterpressure filler to fill the handful of bottles. A bit expensive, and I don't know how closely carbonation in the keg will transfer to carbonation in the bottle. (c) Keg most of it, but bottle a little and prime those (with PrimeTabs, most likely). Seems difficult to calibrate, having never used PrimeTabs before. Priming the whole batch at once and splitting between keg and bottles seems out of the question, since one's supposed to use less priming sugar for kegging than for bottling. Did I miss any major pros or cons? I have a hard time resisting toys, so I may well go for a counterpressure filler, but I'm still worried about how the carbonation will "keep". - Nathan Cambridge, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 16:32:24 -0800 From: "Webb, Mike" <mike.webb at pse.com> Subject: infection or Alpha overdose ?? I have a question for the group. I recently made an IPA with a ridiculously stupid amount (trust me) of hops in it. (even for a hophead like me..) When I was going to bottle it I noticed a plastic - phenolic taste. I've been brewing for 20+ years, fortunately with no experience with infections. At first I thought it may be infected, but them the more I analyzed it, I think it may just be the hops. It tastes similar to chewing on a centennial cone. So, my assumption is : if it's infected it'll get worse, if it's the hops, it'll mellow down some as it ages. Correct assumption ?? BTW, anyone in the Seattle area have the ability to test the IBUs for me ? Mike Webb Near Seattle Wa. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 18:34:43 -0600 From: "Neil Spake" <neils at texas.net> Subject: Rewiring Johnson's "The Controller" Curious as to whether anyone has a schematic and/or has modified a Johnson Control's "The Controller" to accomodate a heater as well as the frig/freezer compressor? William's Brewing's Controller II does this with a jumper inside the housing and just wondered if anyone had looked into modifying the Johnson since I already own two of them (they're about half the price of the other fancier one too). Neil Spake Austin, Texas mailto:neils at texas.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 17:52:58 -0700 From: "Steve Holden" <spholden at comcast.net> Subject: removing keg labels Peter Ensminger asks: >Any suggestions for removing labels that are glued onto stainless steel >Corny kegs? I've been soaking in an ammonia solution for several days >(which works well for bottle labels, BTW) but this doesn't seem to help. I assume you are talking about the plastic labels near the top of the keg. I just warm them up with my propane torch so that the adhesive is nice and gooey and just peel them off. I then use a putty knife to push the remaining adhesive into gobs and just pick it off the keg. Steve Holden Salt Lake City, UT Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 21:28:36 -0600 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at mts.net> Subject: Re: Copper and sodium hydroxide Fred Johnson asks about copper and sodium hydroxide. I only have the same Cole-Parmer table in front of me, and it looks promising. I suggest a simple experiment of soaking a small fitting or cut-off in a jar. The liquid will turn blue-green if there is any corrosion. The storage solution is a good idea, and one that I am planning on using at work with some equipment that just doesn't drain well. I figured on performing the rinse a few hours before the batch starts. Solder, on the other hand, I would worry about. I imagine that a counterflow chiller doesn't usually have solder joints in direct contact with the wort-side of the tubing, so no problem. Sean Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:31:04 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: rickdude02 at earthlink.net Subject: Invert Sugar Procedure and HBD Search Index Fellow Brewgeeks (emphasis on geek for this question): A mention has come up in my local club about preparing an invert sugar solution. I seem to recall that it is possible to rotate dextrose by boiling it in an acid solution, but details escape me. Further, it's been quite a few years since P-chem and I'm not even sure how to begin to try and research this. Anyone familiar with the process? Secondly, I note that we no longer have the HBD search index on the HBD.org website. Is it still available? Believe it or not, that index actually helped me to refine my search a few times while trying to nail down a half-remembered post. Anyone know? Rick Theiner Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 19:25:57 -0800 (PST) From: Jeremy Struffert <mnbrewerguy at yahoo.com> Subject: Wascawy Wombats and Leach Like Labels Phil Yates wrote: >>This morning I come out to check on my brew and find a massive Wollondilly Wombat has tunneled an even more massive hole right under the foundations of the brew house! The Wollondilly Wombat is the most obstinate of all wombats. And he's smart enough to know he's protected by law, so basically he can do anything he wants. You're not even allowed to catch them and move them more than 200 yards from their home. That's real handy given that they find their way back from up to 20 miles! And the buggers like to have five or more homes (probably with a wife in every one)!!<< They may be protected by law, but you can make the choice of domicile particularly uninhabitable. I have had to remove unwanted protected mammals and I assume that Wombats have lungs and pretty sensitive peepers so I will recommend the liberal use of hot pepper (cayenne, habenero or powdered white). Either sprinkle it in and around the entrance to the hole(s) or use a fan of some sort to fog the tunnel with it. I believe there is a great chance that the wombat will choose to vacate...no permanent damage just watery eyes and a runny nose for the 'bats. Peter A. Ensminger writes: >>Any suggestions for removing labels that are glued onto stainless steel Corny kegs? I've been soaking in an ammonia solution for several days (which works well for bottle labels, BTW) but this doesn't seem to help.<< Try a heat gun and a putty knife. That's how we remove registration numbers on boats and snowmobiles up here in MN. ===== Jeremy [501.5, 293.2] Apparent Rennerian Burnsville, MN Malt and hops may not have inspired as many precious pens as the noble grape, but they have always provided good company. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 19:44:53 -0800 From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net> Subject: Double Enghien Brune Clone Y'all, My wife and I enjoy sharing a new brew every now and then. This evening it was Br. de Silly's "Double Enghien Brune." I popped the cap, poured, my wife and I sipped. We sipped again. We looked at one another in astonishment. She said, "That's your beer!" Not having had this beer before, I claim no higher knowledge or ability. But the stuff I made back in April is a near ringer so I thought I'd share the 9 gallon recipe for anyone who may be interested. 11 gallons Sparklets drinking water 6 gallons RO water 20 lbs Moravian Pils 5 lbs DWC Belgian Munich 1 lb Aromatic 8 oz Gambrinus Dark Munich 8 oz Crisp 70-80L 8 oz Digmans Caravienna 2 oz Special B 1 lb gelatinized hard red winter wheat =14.5 SRM+/- Five pounds pils + wheat 105-113f gum rest 15 min. Heat to 119-125 protein rest 15 min. Added mini mash + 160 strike to rest of grain bill = 130 for 20 min. Decoction and return = 140 for 10 min. Decoction and return = 148 for 15 minutes. Decoction and return = 153 for 15 minutes. Mash out at 158 for ten minutes. 170 sparge. 1 oz 4.6% Brewers Gold in the first mash decoction. 1 oz BG First Runnings 80 min 1 oz BG 50 min 1 oz BG 20 min 1 oz 4.5 % Hallertaur 2 min =20-25 IBU's WLP 510 Bastogne Belgian Ale yeast, 60-64f 1.076 OG 1.022 FG Tertiary in Oak for six days. Bottled. Mine was more tannic as a result of the new oak but the malt profile/flavor/aroma/head/mouthfeel/color are spot on. Regards, Chad Stevens Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 01/06/04, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96