HOMEBREW Digest #4472 Tue 10 February 2004

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  Dip tube mutilation; Goodbye glass.... (Chris Mikkelson)
  RE: 10 Gallon Soda kegs (Bill Tobler)
  RE:  Goodbye glass... (Bill Tobler)
  Re: Re: Reinheitsgebot ("-S")
  dark wort ("Todd M. Snyder")
  Beer Microscopy (Alexandre Enkerli)
  You say Rheinheitsgebot, I say Jehosophat ("Dave Draper")
  Goodbye glass: Hello plastic! ("Dave Draper")
  Plastic and bleach, clutterpostings (Calvin Perilloux)
  Fermenters/kegs (Jim Busch)
  Re: goodbye glass ("Michael O'Donnell")
  fermentation vessels (Marc Sedam)
  RE: BLC ("Brian Lundeen")
  concentrated wort boil solutions (Chris Colby)
  RE: MSN, CO2 tanks, Reinheitsgabot, Yule & Imbolg ("Doug Hurst")
  Plastic fermenters ("Brian Schar")
  9th annual South Shore Brewoff - competition announcement (McNally Geoffrey A NPRI)
  Re:  trying to lighten extract brews ("Steve Arnold")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 00:58:06 -0600 From: Chris Mikkelson <chris at mikk.net> Subject: Dip tube mutilation; Goodbye glass.... Steve arnold elects not to to trim his dip tubes (there's an innuendo in there, I know!) because it will keep him from blowing out all of his sanitizer solution before filling the kegs. After the dip tube has taken all the sanitizer, try inverting the keg and drawing most of the rest out through the pressure relief valve. This should get out almost as much as an untrimmed dip tube. On a related note, how do you dip-tube circumcisers out there do the deed? Will a tubing cutter designed for soft copper tubing work on S.S.? Do I need a special Mogen clamp? An inquiring mind (and owner of 10 currently-intact kegs) wants to know.... ******** Although I've had nothing but good experience with glass (i.e. good beer and no stitches), I have mostly switched to the plastic bucket / corny keg duo. The whole scratching thing is overrated, IMO. If you're really worried about it, you can do the disposable sanitary bag in bucket trick, or just treat your fermenting buckets gently. Cornies make very good secondaries. They take up much less space than carboys, are light-proof *and* shatterproof, and can double as serving vessels. Chris Mikkelson St. Paul, MN Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 01:37:18 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: RE: 10 Gallon Soda kegs Steve found some 10 gallon soda kegs for 15 bucks!! Steve, I'll take two. Let me know how much you want + shipping. Thanks! Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 02:31:26 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: RE: Goodbye glass... Bev is tired of the broken glass and cuts. Me too Bev. I put the glass on the shelf last year after my second near miss in 3 years. I've been using a 15 gallon Polar ware Pot as a fermenter. It's actually my large mash tun for big beers. I use a 10 gallon Polar Ware pot for most brews. If I need more than 23 pounds of grain, I'll go to the big one. It's not a sealed fermenter, but I haven't had any problems. It has a drain valve, so getting samples is easy to check gravity. The Pro's and Con's? Pro-I make 10 gallon batches, and only have one fermenter to clean up - ----It won't break - ----It's easy to clean and sanitize. - ----Checking gravity is easy with drain valve - ----It won't break Con-You can't watch your beer ferment - ----You don't have an airlock to watch The Pro's have it, two to one. Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 06:43:43 -0500 From: "-S" <-s at adelphia.net> Subject: Re: Re: Reinheitsgebot Hi Chad, > Don't even want to touch the Christianity thing; this is HBD afterall. You really do love to stir the shit don't you Steven. I suppose. It's been a longtime puzzle to me how a middle-eastern belief system supplanted the myriad of rich an d interesting pagan beliefs throughout Europe. localized 'reluctance' a millennia or so ago was rampant. Why exactly did this foreign system become attractive and the old systems unattractive ? Christmas-NewYears (and Halloween) seem to retain a lot of the pagan elements still. Wasn't meant just to stir the pot - rather an 'aha' moment for me - the paganism is still present to an significant extent.. OK - there is a little stirring but it's not all sh*t ! -S - ----- Original Message ----- From: <zuvaruvi at cox.net> To: "-S" <-s at adelphia.net>; "Posting Address Only - No Requests" <homebrew at hbd.org> Cc: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>; "Wes Smith" <wsmith@acenet.com.au> Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 6:34 PM Subject: Re: Re: Reinheitsgebot > http://www.beercook.com/articles/aassjuleol.htm > > Can't find what I was looking for but this gets you in the groove at any rate. Aass yuleol doesn't come close to being a historical representation of the style; it's a bock. > > Don't even want to touch the Christianity thing; this is HBD afterall. You really do love to stir the shit don't you Steven. > > Chad > > > > From: "-S" <-s at adelphia.net> > > Date: 2004/02/08 Sun PM 04:11:18 EST > > To: "Posting Address Only - No Requests" <homebrew at hbd.org> > > CC: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>, > > "Wes Smith" <wsmith at acenet.com.au> > > Subject: Re: Reinheitsgebot > > > > Chad says Dave says of Reinheitsgebot ... > > > > > The law has to be one of the first ordinances controlling the > > > quality of food and drink in the whole world.... > > > > Such a wretched misunderstanding !! Reinheitsgebot *REDUCES* beer quality > > and restricts brewer creativity ! > > > > It's downright weird that historical law is viewed thru' rose colored > > glasses while modern law and politics with cynical eyes. I'd suggest that > > human nature, intelligence and even political machinations haven't changed > > more than a jot since cave dwellers began telling each other how to live. > > > > Reinheitsgebot certainly includes a "purity" clause that requires beer to > > include only water, hops and malt (no yeast please!), *but* 80% of > > Reinheitsgebot involves the government creation of price caps for beer in > > Bavaria. It's net effect could only reduce beer quality. If you find a > > Bavarian brewer who claims to follow Reinheitsgebot, I'd suggest you stock > > up. Aside from Marzen, their beers must sell at either 1 cent or 2 cents > > per mug (just over a liter) depending on the season ! > > > > Beyond pricing, I still can't see that restricting the ingredients to > > water, hops and malt has any positive implications for quality. OK it > > keeps the cabbage, pumpkins and peppers out of beer, but it also prevents > > the use of unmalted adjunct, sugars, spices and fruits which can be used in > > very high quality beer. Are the unfettered Belgian brewers making lower > > quality beer than Bavarians ? I don't think so, but they certainly are > > producing far more varied and creative styles. > > > > As for being the oldest beer law - a 1290 Nuremberg law forbade the use of > > rye, oats and wheat in brewing in order to preserve these grains for baking. > > There is evidence of brewing in Europe ~800BC or a bit earlier and I suspect > > the 'lawyers' of the era must have created some pointless busybody civil > > restrictions regarding it's creation. The code of Hammurabi ~2100BC > > includes the penalty of drowning the vendor of inferior beer (does Auggie > > Busch read this list?). A bit earlier in Babylon certain types of beer were > > reserved for Siris and Ninkasi temple use so brewing restriction must have > > existed. > > > > Maybe Chad can address the logic behind Gulatingslov but I expect is was for > > the pagan Yule (solstice eve) celebration with perhaps religious > > proscriptions. I'm a little amused at Chad's contention that Christianity > > supplanted the northern pagan mid-winter fest. Personally I think that > > Christianity has only made a small dent. The Midwinter fest is still full > > of Yule elves (tho' now carrying Christian names like SantaClaus), yule > > logs, wassail, mulled wine, caroling, the use of evergreens, misletoe, holly > > all with associations pagan custom; Thor, Freya but also Odin and Balder as > > well as druidic practice. Thor(aka Donner)'s flying wagon pulled by a > > team of horned goats becomes a sleigh pulled by a reindeer (one named > > Donner) ! Odin's penchant for leaving gifts for children is taken up by > > S.Claus. Balder's death from misletoe at the hands of his brother and > > eventual rebirth, like the Christian story, echoes the astronomical change > > from a receding sun to an approaching one. Even the Germanic custom of > > eating pork at new years connects directly with Freya and the boar > > symbology. Norse 'yule', Anglo-Saxon 'geol' and the Germanic 'weh' > > solstice fests share a lot in common. My observation is that Christian > > influence at mid-winter ranks third after pagan and commercial aspects of > > the holidays > > > > -S > > > > > > > > > > Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 08:58:45 -0500 From: "Todd M. Snyder" <tmsnyder at buffalo.edu> Subject: dark wort Hi Andy, If want to continue to do partial boils, you need to conduct the concentrated boil for less time in order to produce lighter colored beer. Pretty straight forward, right? But how to do it..... Here's a couple ideas: (1) If you want to create your own recipes including hop additions, you could use just a small portion of the DME at the start of the boil, conduct the normal 60-90 minute boil with hop additions. Then when you turn off the heat, add the remaining bulk of your DME. This way you're not boiling the concentrated wort all that time. There's no need to boil a DME based wort for the full 60 minutes. (2) If you don't care about adding your own specific hops, you could use canned beer kits which are prehopped and then follow the directions on the can. They say to just add the can to hot water, top up with cold water and add yeast. It's a no-boil method and actually does make good beer, especially if you use a good yeast and substitute DME for the table sugar in the directions. Actually, boiling these cans causes flavor/aroma hops in the can to be converted to bittering, and the final beer will be too bitter. No-boil works well with them. Good brewing! Todd Snyder Buffalo, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 10:03:23 -0400 From: Alexandre Enkerli <aenkerli at indiana.edu> Subject: Beer Microscopy This was posted on Slashdot: http://slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=04/02/09/0157209 Those are pictures of (mostly swill) beer under the microscope: http://www.molecularexpressions.com/micro/gallery/beer/beer.html Ale-X in Moncton, New Brunswick (Canada) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 07:18:11 -0700 From: "Dave Draper" <david at draper.name> Subject: You say Rheinheitsgebot, I say Jehosophat Dear Friends, -Steve says Chad says Dave says of Reinheitsgebot ... > > > The law has to be one of the first ordinances controlling the > > quality of food and drink in the whole world.... > Which leads -Steve to lament: > Such a wretched misunderstanding !! Reinheitsgebot *REDUCES* beer quality > and restricts brewer creativity ! Ah, but "controlling" quality does not mean "improving" quality, does it? :-) Couldn't resist, Dave in ABQ =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- David S. Draper, Institute of Meteoritics, Univ New Mexico David at Draper dot Name Beer page: http://www.unm.edu/~draper/beer.html The one with the biggest starter wins. ---Dan McConnell Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 07:39:02 -0700 From: "Dave Draper" <david at draper.name> Subject: Goodbye glass: Hello plastic! Dear Friends, Bev Blackwood has decided to ditch glass fermentors for safety reasons and is asking for alternatives. Bev, don't dismiss plastic out of hand as "all too easily scratched". Every time I read someone say this, it reminds me of that old joke: "Doc, it hurts when I do this." "Well then, don't DO that!" Herewith my semiannual pro-plastic rant (I'm not picking on anyone here, this is a longstanding hobbyhorse with me!): It is painfully simple to prevent plastic fermentors from becoming scratched for a very long time. As with any other brewing equipment, if you clean it immediately after use when everything is still "wet", any goop adhering to the walls of the fermentor (I'm thinking of the yeast "bathtub ring" mostly) comes right off with just your hand. Or, just use a regular, soft kitchen sponge (NOT a "scrubby"). No harm, no foul. For those times when a very high yeast mat on top lets part of the ring dry out before you transfer to secondary, just fill the thing with hot water and let it soak an hour or so, and then it'll also come right off. Sure, if you let it dry on so it hangs on like grim death, the scrubbing you'll have to do to remove it will scratch the plastic. So don't DO that. Plastic is lightweight, cheap, easy to clean, easy to transport and carry, and you have spigots + gravity for all transfers. Personally I find the risk of harming the beer much greater from multiple mouth-started siphoning steps than from the (dare I use this term) momily of scratching plastic fermentors. Just about everywhere I've lived, the vast majority of floor surfaces in the parts of my living space where I go when brewing are/were tile, concrete, or some other very hard surface. One false move and it's a major cleanup disaster at best, and a serious injury at worst. And nobody has ever demonstrated that beer fermented in plastic is in any way inferior (all else being equal!!) to beer fermented in glass. Glyn Crossno responded to my challenge years ago (was it really 1998 Glyn??? Wow!) with at least one identical batch split between the two types of fermentors, and as I understand it, nobody could tell the difference (including myself: Glyn sent me some and I did a blind tasting). And yes, plastic fermentors most certainly *will* eventually scratch, after a couple years or maybe more. OK: go buy a new one. Seems like a trivial investment to me. In an ideal world of unlimited funding, of course stainless is the best. Need I complete that thought? Stepping down off my (plastic) soapbox, Dave in ABQ =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- David S. Draper, Institute of Meteoritics, Univ New Mexico David at Draper dot Name Beer page: http://www.unm.edu/~draper/beer.html Yeast are forgiving unless you really insult them. ---Dan McConnell Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 07:04:18 -0800 (PST) From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com> Subject: Plastic and bleach, clutterpostings Jeremy Hansen reports on his woes of phenols, suspected from using bleach as a sanitiser, with some follow-up: >> made two other changes as well: different bucket, >> and I changed my chiller into an immersion chiller. Big changes! However regardless of what caused/fixed the problem, are we sure these are phenols and not CHLOROphenols, thus much more potent and nasty subset of "plain" phenols? That would be my guess. If you weren't rinsing the bleach solution out of there, you could well have enough chlorine left to bind to the phenols that already exist in your beer. Note that I've tasted similar to this with iodophor as well, in high concentrations in the fermenter (doesn't seem to have quite as much effect in the serving kegs) -- iodophenols, presumably, which also have a noted "medicinal, phenol, chemical" odour. >> My pitching temperature may have been somewhat high, >> perhaps 85 degrees, Oh my! That's a wee bit high, really. And on another topic, Chad of unknown last name or location replies to the famed -S and to Wes of Wollombi (or wherever) about their retorts to his Reinheitsgebot posting. Chad, MUST you include every single line of Steve's post? It's only two messages above yours, and even if it were in an earlier digest, we only need to read the relevant points. Keeping the extraneous details out of our postings is one thing that makes HBD one of the most readable digests on the Web. I hereby call for the U:berflu:ssigebandbreitebenutzungsverbot of 2004... ;-) Calvin Perilloux Middletown, Maryland, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, Feb 9 2004 10:05:41 GMT-0500 From: Jim Busch <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: Fermenters/kegs Bev asks for suggestions to replace his glass corny fermenters. My vote goes to SS stock pots or a similar arrangement via SS Sankey kegs. Basically you will be using an open fermenter and I would suggest you just use the stock pot lid as a dust cover. Ive also seen folks using a SS wok lid on a keg. Very easy to use and you just need a racking arm/cane to move the beer. I used my SS lauter tun for years before investing in a uni. I must be in the minority in cutting my corny keg dip tubes! I usually cut about a half an inch off and they seem to work fine to me. Then again I dont fret much about spilling a few pints of beer! Prost! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 08:02:36 -0800 From: "Michael O'Donnell" <mooseo at stanford.edu> Subject: Re: goodbye glass Bev is looking to use something other than glass for fermenting. I recently switched to using corny kegs for fermenters and have been pretty happy with it. I do miss watching stuff swirling around, but the loss has been offset by the convenience of moving them around, cleaning them (my arm fits all the way to the bottom), and that I can fit 2 of them side by side in my temp-control chamber. The one problem I'll point out: I chose 2 beat-up kegs to use as fermenters and cut the bottom of the dip tubes off 1" (I don't know if anyone is advising against this for fermenters?)... the problem is that one of them was beat up enough that the lid doesn't seal properly, which means that I usually don't have enough pressure to give me any bubbling out of the airlock. Some people on here suggested pounding out the dents in the lid with a wooden mallet, which i have tried without success... others have suggested using thicker o-rings from Williams Brewing, which I always forget to order until too late. Beyond that, kegs have been great. cheers, mike Monterey, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 11:29:16 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: fermentation vessels Bev is getting rid of glass forever...oh the poor starving US glassblowers... Anyhoo, I've had a great deal of enjoyment out of the MiniBrew fermenter I received last year. It's 15 gallons and has a side racking port and bottom dump valve. Pictures are here (paste the two lines) http://www.mivamall.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv? Screen=PROD&Store_Code=store03&Product_Code=f12b I regularly brew 10 gallon batches of beer and this is perfect. Works great for 5 gallon batches too. My favorite part, much like the SS conicals, is that it's very easy to clean by hand. I've used nothing but surfactants (OxiClean and PBW) on it and post-fermentation deposits are easy to remove with a sponge. Like buckets, scrubbies or scouring pads are a no-no. Often I ferment in the conical and rack to a bucket (or carboy) after fermentation is nearly complete. It's all the benefits of the SS conical but none of the costs. As a matter of disclosure, I did help John put together a "design" for the quick disconnect sets you see on the site. He let me play with some fittings and tubing, and what you see is what I use in my brewery at home. He worked hard to find a combination of hoses and QDs that could be combined in multiple ways for minimal cost (given that QDs and braided hose are both kinda pricey for the average HBer), which I think he's done. Just want y'all to know where I'm coming from. Not like I'm getting a royalty, nor would I have accepted one! :-) Now if someone could design a CIP sprayball that HBers could use in conicals with a regular pump (MoreBeer has one, but it needs a 25gpm pump to run), we'd be in business. Cheers! Marc - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 10:50:08 -0600 From: "Brian Lundeen" <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: BLC > Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2004 18:54:07 -0500 > From: Robert J Haines <bjhaines at juno.com> > Subject: B-L-C ... how nasty is this stuff? > I'd really appreciate > it if someone who has the background could give some > practical advice on how cautious I need to be when > working with it (in concentrated form, and in the normal > working solution of 2/5 oz B-L-C per quart of water). > Well, Bob, I don't have The Background(tm) but that's never stopped me from providing useless anecdotal advice on pretty much any topic. I wear neither gloves nor eye protection while handling the stuff, but then, I'm not prone to spastic fits that would cause me to hurl the container toward my face (which is not to say that you do). I treat the concentrate with respect, I try not to touch the stuff, but if I err on the side of clumsy, it's no big deal to get a little on my hands (at least it didn't bother me). I just go wash it off. The eyes and mouth I can see wanting to keep it away from. In its dilute form, it seems to cause me no problems. It just feels slippery more than anything. Cheers Brian, in Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 13:31:31 -0600 From: Chris Colby <colbybrewery at austin.rr.com> Subject: concentrated wort boil solutions Andrew Tate asks: > I brew with extract and do partial volume boils on my > electric stove, somewhere around 3 out of 5 gallons. > This results in a very dark wort. Recently I've taken > to placing a bent coat hanger between the kettle and > the heating element, and this seems to help a small > amount. The beers I make don't taste scorched, in > fact they seem fine other than color. Even using > Extra Light DME I can't get my beer much lighter than > a dark amber. > > As much as I'd like to move outside and do all grain > full volume gas boils, it isn't a possibility for me > right now. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to > reduce the darkening? And, could this darkening > result in a higher FG? Andrew, There are a couple solutions to this problem: One is to add your LME late in the boil or at knockout. Most LMEs have already been boiled at the extract factory and there is no reason to boil them again. You can boil 2.5-3 gallons of weak wort made with about a pound of LME for 60 minutes and add your hops, Irish moss and what not as you normally would. Then, towards or at the end of the boil, turn off the heat and stir in your remaining LME. As long as the wort stays above 160 degrees F for 15 minutes, it should be adequately sanitized. (The October 2002 issue of BYO has an article in this by Steve Bader and lots of extract brewers are doing this now.) A second option is to boil your wort at working strength in shifts. For example, make 2.5 gallons of wort one day, then make 2.5 gallons the next. This way, you are boiling your wort at the same density as you would if you were doing a full-wort boil. (I wrote about this method -- which I call the Texas Two-Step -- in the October 2003 issue of BYO.) An added benefit of the two-step method is that the first half of your wort acts as a yeast starter for the full 5-gallons of wort. This is handy if you are one of those brewers who does not make a yeast starter (although I heartily recommend making starters for all beers). Finally, DME is often lighter in color than LME. Chris Colby Bastrop, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 13:42:52 -0600 From: "Doug Hurst" <dougbeer2000 at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: MSN, CO2 tanks, Reinheitsgabot, Yule & Imbolg Steve Johnson pointed us to MSN's wretched description of beer. My initial reaction was: what would you expect? I started to type a feedback response to MSN but then thought why bother? Who there is really going to care? They're most likely more interested in continuous creation of content regardless of accruacy. I suppose the take home message is that we, as brewers, need to spend concerted effort educating the public about the finer aspects of beer. Roger Deschner claims that Illinois requires aluminum tanks to be tested every five years, while steel tanks only need it every ten years. I have 5 and 20 lb aluminum tanks and a 10lb steel tank and have been told they all need to be tested every five years. Perhaps my CO2 supplier (nfc gas) is trying to make some extra money. I'm personally a fan of the Aluminum tank because it weighs so much less. I used to think that Reinheitsgebot was a great thing, ensuring quality beer. More recently, however, I've come to the same conclusion as Steve A. While this may have helped build a unifing product (and perhaps nation) across Germany, it didn't do much for creativity. I consider the Belgians with their variety and no purity law to be on the cutting edge of brewing. According to Reinheitsgebot, you can't even use Irish Moss in your beer. I attribute my initial Reinheitsgebot allegiance to the idea that insipid rice filled "pilsners" would be outlawed. Lastly, some clarification. Steve A calls Yule a Mid-winter celebration. Technically Yule, being the Winter Solstice, is actually the beginning of winter. Mid-winter aka Imbolg or Candlemas is early February, generally the 2nd (groundhog day). Doug Hurst Chicago, IL [197.5, 264.8] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 11:53:05 -0800 From: "Brian Schar" <schar at cardica.com> Subject: Plastic fermenters Apropos to a couple of plastic fermenter posts lately, I have fermented exclusively in plastic for 10+ years. I have several reasons for this: 1) Safety. I am a big klutz. I can and will hurt myself badly on a glass carboy, given the opportunity. I have known two brewers personally who screwed up their hands pretty badly on shattering glass carboys. Knowing how much I hate blood, especially my own, and knowing how my wife hates it when I cry like a wee schoolgirl upon having my bodily integrity compromised, I stick with plastic. It can't shatter and send me to the hospital. 2) Cheapness. I am cheap. Plastic carboys aren't expensive. This is one of their saving graces. Think you have contamination in one of them? Toss it in your recycle bin (or even use it as a recycle bin) and buy yourself a new one. I usually swap out every year or two whether I feel like I need to or not. 3) Good results. I have never bought into the "scratches/bacteria" homebrew lore that has grown up around plastic fermenters. I will not belabor the point, when a search of the HBD archives will turn up more than anyone wants to read about the different points of view on this subject. In fact, I tend to believe (purely a personal belief with no cites to back it up!) that there will be _less_ contamination in plastic fermenters vs. glass carboys as a result of the ability to get in there and clean them better. You can get your hand and your cleaning tool onto all surfaces of a plastic fermenter through its 12 inch diameter opening. You're going to be relying on much more indirect tools and methods to get to all parts of a glass carboy through that little teeny hole in the top. In my view, relax, ferment in plastic, and get a new fermenter if you start to worry. Brian Schar Menlo Park, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 15:48:13 -0500 From: McNally Geoffrey A NPRI <McNallyGA at Npt.NUWC.Navy.Mil> Subject: 9th annual South Shore Brewoff - competition announcement The South Shore Brew Club is pleased to announce the 9th annual South Shore Brewoff. The competition will be held on Saturday, May 1st, 2004 at the Rock Bottom Restaurant and Brewery in Braintree, MA. Entry deadline is Friday, April 16th, 2004. We have registered with the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) and will be accepting entries in all 26 BJCP categories (including mead and cider). Competition entry packages containing entry forms, bottle labels, judge/steward registration form, and other related information will be available soon from our club website: http://members.aol.com/brewclub/ If you have any questions contact Geoffrey McNally, the competition organizer, at mcnallyga at npt.nuwc.navy.mil or 401-624-3953. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 17:02:38 -0600 From: "Steve Arnold" <vmi92 at cox-internet.com> Subject: Re: trying to lighten extract brews Before I switched to all-grain, I asked myself the same question. In fact, I tried a little experiment when making a trippel to lighten the color of my beer. Here's how it went: First, I bought the palest liquid malt extract possible. Knowing that I had to boil the hops for the time period specified by the recipe, I boiled the hops in PLAIN WATER, and added the malt extract in the last 15 minutes in order to minimize any darkening that might result from the boil. The results: (drumroll, please) Bad news: No perceivable difference in color. :( Good news: Hop utilization was not affected, and the beer came out very nice, placing 3rd in two separate competitions. Conclusion: If I want to be able to brew lighter colored beer, I have to switch to all-grain, which I did, and have never looked back. These were my results. I am interested to hear if anyone else has tackled the problem with different results. -Steve Arnold Fort Smith, Arkansas Return to table of contents
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