HOMEBREW Digest #4582 Tue 17 August 2004

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  Racking off of floating fruit ("Steve Smith")
  Hey, Pat....Relax and Have a Homebrew (Denis Bekaert)
  Drying green hops ("Craig S. Cottingham")
  Steam Injection Into Mash Tun -- Anyone Use This? ("Charles Boyer")
  Lysozyme (John Harvey)
  glueing a corny rubber rim ("Alan McKay")
  Cutting the top off of kegs (Doug Moyer)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 21:22:28 -0600 From: "Steve Smith" <sasmith at in-tch.com> Subject: Racking off of floating fruit I am making my first fruit beer, charging along with limited knowledge but lots of trust that all is well. I pasturized ten pounds of choke cherries (for a 6 gallon recipe) in the wort, and they went directly into a 7 gallon plastic bucket closed fermenter along with 3.5 oz. of leaf hops, the wort, and the yeast. I did not bag the hops or fruit. I imagine that with the floating choke cherries (they have a large pit in the middle) and all of those hops in the mix that I am likely to experience a plugged racking tube when trying to rack the beer into the secondary from in between the sediment and what is floating. I was thinking that maybe some folks pour off the beer down to the sediment, through a sanitized mash tun or a pillow case, rather than racking. I realize that could so easily infect the beer. I found little help in the HBD archives. My hunch is to relax, rack off the beer in the middle and get on with it, but I'm open to the voice of experience. Thanks. gettin' pithy, Steve Smith Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 14:55:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Denis Bekaert <Denis-B at rocketmail.com> Subject: Hey, Pat....Relax and Have a Homebrew Pat...relax my friend and have a homebrew! Don't worry if an occasional bit of spam gets through and into the Digest. We can handle it. Besides, when it does happen we can all concentrate our collective ill will on the lowlife scum that sent it...perhaps ruin their lives! You guys do such a fantastic job for the rest of us day after day. We can't thank you enough for all that work and dedication. So relax, my friend, don't let the bastards get you down, and have a homebrew. Denis in Beechgrove, TN. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 22:46:31 -0500 From: "Craig S. Cottingham" <craig at cottingham.net> Subject: Drying green hops I just finished watching an episode of Alton Brown's "Good Eats" in which he dried fresh herbs using whole-house furnace filters and a box fan. The filters were similar to the one pictured at http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE-955516reg.jpg -- the important characteristic apparently being that it's pleated. You lay the fresh herbs in the valleys between the pleats, place another filter on top, and repeat as needed, ending with one more (empty) filter. The whole stack is bungee-corded to the outflow side of a box fan, which you then turn on and leave alone. Twelve hours later, you reverse the stack (so that the filter closest to the box fan is furthest away and vice versa) and give it another twelve hours of airflow. After 24 hours, the herbs are dry to the point of being crisp without losing many of their volatiles. As a bonus, apparently your house now smells like fresh herbs. As we're watching this, I turn to my wife and say: "This sounds like a great way to dry hops!" Unfortunately, I don't grow my own hops, so I can't try this at home. If there's anyone on the list who's adventurous enough to try it, I'd be interested to hear how it turns out. In fact, if you live in the Johnson/Douglas County, KS area and have fresh hops, I'll provide the box fan. :-) - -- Craig S. Cottingham Olathe, KS craig at cottingham.net OpenPGP key available from: http://pgp.mit.edu:11371/pks/lookup?op=get&search=0x7977F79C Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 22:26:54 -0400 From: "Charles Boyer" <cboyer at ausoleil.org> Subject: Steam Injection Into Mash Tun -- Anyone Use This? Way back in HBD 1905, Charlie Scandrett proposed a system to inject steam into the mash tun of a homebrew system in lieu of traditional methods for addition of heat. Brewing Techniques also featured an article back in the day, albeit one slightly less technical and complete than was Charlie's. You could look up the post in the archives, but here's a quote from Charlie's post: "First, I'm a steam injection geek, I even boil (yes it can be done) with the stuff and I've ordered an electronically controlled "parabolic plug valve" to PID control it. Steam has its problems, it can be dangerous and needs to be understood very well. Steam is a great carrier of heat and because it is at 100C to 200C in non contained systems, it can heat quickly without scorching. When superheated, it penetrates the fluid well beyond the boundary layer, and when a central manifold is used, it gives great convection and gelatinisation. (You still need to stir a grain mash for even temp, not to prevent scorching) It isolates the very high temperatures of the burners from your wort, while injecting heat without the usual boundary layer problems. " What I am wondering is this -- granted, steam is a dangerous thing if mishandled, but the payoff for this -- better heating, no scorching, simplicity, etc., seem to make it a worthwhile project....especially for someone like me that wants to do step mashing, or at least have the ability to do so. Problem is, I can find nary a bite on designs, practices, etc., other than the two articles I mentioned above. In fact, an engineer on one of the boards offered this: "anyone who works with steam, boilers, and pressure vessels on a regular basis will tell you, that is not a feasible idea. Not even considering safety, the amount of steam a pressure cooker could safely create would not be enough to ramp at a decent rate." Strong advice indeed. So I ask -- besides Charlie's system, are there many people out there doing this, or is the issue so complicated that it is a fool's errand? Your collective advice, as always, is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Charles Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 21:32:53 -0700 (PDT) From: John Harvey <theharv0157 at yahoo.com> Subject: Lysozyme There was an article on lysozyme in a recent magazine. I didn't read it, and I don't remember what magazine it was, but in any case I'd like to hear opinions on its use. In the past I've experimented with reusing the yeast sediment from bottle-conditioned beers with minimal success. A couple of times when trying to regrow a yeast starter from the dregs of a previous homebrew bottle, my cultures have been horribly contaminated. I think my sterile technique is good; the only thing I didn't do was to flame the bottle neck before pouring (which I should/will do next time). Because of drug resistance I have a philosophical problem with using things like ampicillin or tetracycline. But lysozyme, although similar, seems like a safe alternative. How well will it prevent contamination? Should I be worried about resistance if I only use it in my starter? Is there anything else I should know about re-culturing from previous bottled homebrews? Thanks everyone! John Harvey PS, side note... I want to thank the janitors for their vigilance in eliminating spam from the digest. I know it pains them when ANY spam gets in, but I really don't think a couple of occasional messages is a big deal at all. They do a great job and should be thanked and congratulated for their work. I'm sure I'm not alone when I say thank you and good job! We appreciate your time and efforts. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 10:03:42 -0400 (EDT) From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at neap.net> Subject: glueing a corny rubber rim Folks, The top rubber handle/rim came off one of my corny kegs. Any tried-and-true glues that will hold it there again? I'm thinking the new PL700 construction adhesive. cheers, -Alan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 16:50:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Doug Moyer <shyzaboy at yahoo.com> Subject: Cutting the top off of kegs Well, I'm ready to impart upon that age old homebrewer rite of passage: cutting the tops off of a couple of kegs for a mash tun and boil kettle. I spent the past few years ignoring posts debating this topic, and am now left with a search engine that isn't up to the task. As such, I am forced to re-stir the pot... For those who have tried both, which is easier: reciprocating saw (i.e., Sawzall) or rotary cutter (i.e., Dremel)? Both seem to have a problem with the width of the cutting edge not matching the target diameter. How do you overcome that? Brew on! Doug Moyer Star City Brewers Guild http://www.starcitybrewers.org Return to table of contents
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