HOMEBREW Digest #4621 Wed 06 October 2004

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  weissbier mashing (Ken Pendergrass)
  Cider ("Jon & Megan Sandlin")
  Re: pilsner yeast/ warm lager fermentation ("Pat Casey")
  Re: Solder Flux ("Rob Dewhirst")
  a few things ("Marc Sedam")
  Suitable Grain Mill for Batch Sparging? ("Steve Smith")
  Thanks for the Cider Info (Chris & Dianne)
  Pilsner yeast, Warm fermentation ("Steve Dale-Johnson")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2004 22:09:51 -0400 From: Ken Pendergrass <kenp794 at comcast.net> Subject: weissbier mashing This summer's trip to Europe has left me with a taste for Bavarian weiss even though I was only in Munich for about 3 hours and then on to Austria. How much of weiss is the mash and how much the yeast. Is it really necessary to decoction mash with modern malts to make an authentic weiss? Last and most important how can a decoction mash be done in a cooler mash/lauter tun, if it can be done. To date I have only done infusion mashing and I confess decoction has me confused. Thanks Ken Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 19:56:24 -0700 From: "Jon & Megan Sandlin" <sandlin at bendbroadband.com> Subject: Cider Why not use a low attenuation yeast instead of trying to stop fermentation in order to leave a little residual sugar? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 22:28:15 +1000 From: "Pat Casey" <pat at bmbrews.com.au> Subject: Re: pilsner yeast/ warm lager fermentation Rowan perhaps the best yeast to use would be Mauribrew 497 - it's the dried lager yeast that comes with some kits. Use 2 sachets per 22 litres, rehydrate the yeast and aerate the wort on pitching. This will give a smooth, clean and mellow finish, although for a pilsner you may need to increase your hopping slightly. Mauri's specs give it a temp range of between 15 and 30 deg C, however I'd try to keep it in the 15 - 20 range. Despite the temp range the manufacturer states that it is a lager yeast, so I presume that it can fully ferment raffinose and that this is the basis of their statement. Go and see Col Marshall at Kambah for some. If this doesn't appeal to you the Californian ale yeast may be an alternative to consider. Pat Blue Mountains Brewing Supplies St Georges Cr., Faulconbridge, NSW (02) 4751-4292 www.bmbrews.com.au Wed to Sat 9:30 - 5:30 Sun 9:30 - 1:30 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 08:48:07 -0500 From: "Rob Dewhirst" <rob at hairydogbrewery.com> Subject: Re: Solder Flux >> From: Chuck Doucette <cdoucette61 at yahoo.com> > Subject: Solder Flux > My question, where can I get food grade flux? I have > the regular lead free antimony based flux for use in > soldering water pipe, but have never seen a flux > marked as food grade. Any suggestions would be greatly > appreciated. I have never seen flux labeled as food grade, but water soluble flux is what you want. This is easy to find at the hardware store in the solder section. My hardware stores are not that great and they still have it. The particular brand I use comes in a white plastic container about the size of a can of chewing tobacco. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 12:44:33 -0400 From: "Marc Sedam" <alechemist at bellsouth.net> Subject: a few things Hey all, Catching up on my reading lately...thought I'd jump in for a few points. 1) Pump issues Everyone hit on one clear solution--the valve on the outflow end of the pump. But there was a post in the mix that stated cavitation wouldn't oxidize the beer. That's not true. In fact cavitation can oxidize your beer faster than just about anything else. A pro brewery on the East Coast asked me to help troubleshoot a beer they were brewing that was having wicked oxidation problems. Nothing in the brewery had changed. I guessed that the pump had micro-cracks in the pump head that was sucking air in on the way to the fermenters, oxidizing the bejeezus out of their beers. They went back to the brewery and found that this indeed was the case, replaced the pump head, and had no further problems. Don't underestimate this as an issue. But the second, easier solution was something no one put forth. PUT THE CHILLER BEFORE THE PUMP! Since you're pumping beer anyway, why not chill the beer down before it hits the pump head. That way even if you have some cavitation (which should be avoided at all costs), it won't destroy the beer as quickly. Try this set-up... kettle --> CFC --> pump --> fermenter. You do have to get beer through the CFC and fill the pumphead up first, but this really isn't that hard. To ensure the pumphead is full, you can also physically turn the pump so that the inlet-outlet are vertical and not horizontal. The pump will very quickly pull the beer up through the pump head, filling the head space. You can lay the pump back down after this has started. I've been doing this for about six years and it works well. 2) Yeast for high-temp lager Try using the California common yeast or even the German Kolsch yeast. Both are pretty heat tolerant. I've also found the Scottish ale yeast is a clean fermenter, as well as Danstar Nottingham. Is it a lager? No, but it can be pretty darn close. Call it a lager and see if anyone can tell the difference. Use some floral hops like Saaz to cover up some of the esters produced by ale yeast. 3) Stevia powder The question at hand is whether stevia powder is fermentable, not whether or not it has calories. As for the knock on Splenda...I don't consider chlorinated sugar to be an abomination to man or ridiculously artificial. I've drunk enough city water to ensure a chlorine intake in life. Not gonna kill you or even hurt you. If stevia powder is unfermentable I agree it will probably taste more natural, and might even be cheaper if you have a Whole Foods or other co-op in the area. 4) Trub separation It's kinda important, but won't kill you if you don't do it. Whirlpooling is highly effective, especially if you use just an ounce of whole hops. You'll be amazed at how much filtering capacity an ounce of hops will have even if you use pellets in the rest of the brew. Use whole hops for the aroma addition, start the whirlpool, and you can rack off relatively clear beer in 10 mins. The addition of a SS scrubbie (not soap-impregnated...obviously) on your racking cane will help even more. 5) Manifold I've used all sorts of lauter tuns in the 10+ years I've been brewing. My current configuration, a Zymico Bazooka Screen (tm) in a converted keg, works best. Drill a hole 1/2" off the bottom on the side and the kit will help with the rest. I lose perhaps a pint of wort per batch and it's crystal clear after a quart of recirculation (assuming you let the grain bed set up). I've even recirculated wort with a pump through this system at >3gpm with no ill effects. Phew...I should know better than to skip a week's worth of HBD. And congrats to Jeff on being a BJCP Beer-bassador to South Africa. Enjoy your trip and don't forget to pick up an All Black's rugby shirt. They're swanky. Cheers! Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 14:11:02 -0600 From: "Steve Smith" <sasmith at in-tch.com> Subject: Suitable Grain Mill for Batch Sparging? I realize that many people agree that a decent crush can be obtained via a two-roller, or even a one-roller (such as Phill's Mill) grain mill. What if you are a batch sparger? Since, in batch sparging, extraction during both mashing and sparging is through a steep and stir process (I use a 10-gallon Rubbermaid beverage cooler as a mash/lauter tun), and since the grain bed can be stirred to free up a stuck mash (Heaven forbid it ever happen), would a batch sparger be able to save some money and do just as well by using a well-adjusted Corona grain mill? I noticed on Graham Sanders' Australian Craftbrewer site http://oz.craftbrewer.org/Library/Gear/GSanders/CoronaMill.shtml that he said that when handled appropriately, Corona mills work very well. However, if the ease of use, and better quality crush of a roller mill is significant enough to warrant putting out an additional $40 - $60 I would want to do that. I just made the step up to all-grain brewing, have decided on the batch sparge method of brewing, and want to buy a good-but-inexpensive mill. Unfortunately, today I went through the first phase of a root canal, and what with the dental costs of the procedure and the eventual crown, I am feeling a significant cramp in my purchasing power. Nose to the grindstone, grist to the mill, Steve Smith Missoula, MT Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 15:12:38 -0700 From: Chris & Dianne <johnstonmaclean at shaw.ca> Subject: Thanks for the Cider Info After posting the original question about how to achieve residual sweetness in my apple cider, I'd like to thank you all for your responses. I've decided to ferment to dry, bypassing any attempt to halt fermentation artificially. After kegging aging till the spring/early summer, I'll taste, determine what residual sweetness remains, and decide then whether or not to stabilize/sweeten. Thanks again for all the info ... I'll let you know who it turns out! Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 16:36:45 -0700 From: "Steve Dale-Johnson" <sdalejohnson at hotmail.com> Subject: Pilsner yeast, Warm fermentation Rowan Williams asked about a warm pils ferment. Fellow RCMP member Tom Poelman routinely does this with Wyeast 2278 Czech Pils. From tasting his beers, I can tell you that he seems to get good results with it, although not necessarily authentic pils. It does clean up nicely with lagering (much better than an ale yeast for the style), but lacks the same kind of steely edge and sulfur nose that it would have with a colder ferment. I'd say it's worth a try. Steve Dale-Johnson Royal Canadian Malted Patrol Delta, BC, Canada..... Return to table of contents
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