HOMEBREW Digest #4784 Tue 07 June 2005

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  Re:  Erlenmeyer Flasks (asemok)
  Topical Iodine for Sanitizing ("Eric R. Theiner")
  RE: How to open a sankey keg for home brewing ("Paul Clarke")
  HCCP V1.2 ("Alan Folsom")
  Natural Gas Burners (Eric Schoville)
  RE: Erlenmeyer Flasks (roger789)
  Pressure Gauges ("May, Jeff")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 01:00:25 -0400 From: asemok at mac.com Subject: Re: Erlenmeyer Flasks On Jun 2, 2005, at 11:02 PM, "Peter Beauregard" <peterb at desktopstandard.com> wrote: > I have been doing starters for years in Erlenmeyer > Flasks over gas on the stove, but have recently > moved into a house with a flat top electric stove. > Anyone out there had any bad experiences doing > starters on this type of stove? > Thanks! Shouldn't be a problem, just use common sense care so as not to crack the flasks (you don't have to use the "high" heat setting). But if there is an inexpensive alternative that will put you at ease...a butane stove. Handles like a gas burner, is portable and relatively inexpensive to feed, and handy as hell. These are sold in specialty stores and especially in Asian markets of the type found in larger East Coast cities and they are a lifesaver in the brew kitchen. Paid under $30 for mine, and use it for the task you describe as well as heating up quantities of decoction to raise mash temps, sterilizing small fittings, and various other brew tasks. I can't imagine brewing without it. cheers, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 11:09:43 -0500 From: "Eric R. Theiner" <rickdude at tds.net> Subject: Topical Iodine for Sanitizing Sean asks about using iodophor from an OR in homebrewing... Unfortunately, it will probably contain skin conditioners (lanolin, etc.) to minimize the irritation caused by the use of the treatment. Those will present the same types of issues that you'll get if you use dishwashing soap for cleaning (head retention issues, possible flavor from residue, etc.). BUT I hate to throw anything away. I'd try it out first by diluting the solution to the proper level for hard surface sanitizing (12.5 ppm; let me know if you need help in figuring the calculation to dilute). Then I'd make up a cheap and simple kit beer that would show off flavors (a favorite test for me is 2 cans of Munton's American Light to a 5 gallon batch-- it's an acceptablelawnmower beer and the neighbors will drink it). Good luck! Rick Theiner LOGIC, Inc. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 21:17:46 -0400 From: "Paul Clarke" <ptclarke at sympatico.ca> Subject: RE: How to open a sankey keg for home brewing Daytona, that was painful, man. How about just posting the link next time? PClarke, Ottawa ON, Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 08:43:27 -0400 From: "Alan Folsom" <alan at folsoms.net> Subject: HCCP V1.2 I'd like to announce the availability of version 1.2 of HCCP, my Homebrew Competition Coordination Program. HCCP is a free windows-based package for managingall the requirements of a competition. HCCP has to date been used in at least 17competitions of which I am aware. Version 1.2 includes a large number of new features, mostly generated from the requests of the competition organizers. These include: - the ability to handle multiple brewers per entry - A parallel entry database, for entries which have not yet been received. These can then be marked as received and assigned entry numbers when they are in hand. - Option for new, larger, bottle labels. - Option for bottle labels with category numbers, for those who wish to label bottles after the the entries are entered into the system - Ribbon labels to attach to the back of award ribbons - Significantly enhanced generation of the XML report for submitting to the BJCP. Now validates entries and attempts to calculate point awards for Organizers, Judges, and Stewards based on the size of the competition. It can also be "saved" for future use or updating. - Many, many minor bug fixes. HCCP 1.2 uses a slightly different database format than previous versions. Any old format databases will be automatically updated to the new format if imported into HCCP. For more information, screen shots, or documentation; or to download HCCP,go to http://www.folsoms.net/hccp/ Cheers, Al Folsom Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 13:20:28 -0500 From: Eric Schoville <eric at schoville.com> Subject: Natural Gas Burners Is it possible to convert a Cajun cooker style propane burner to use natural gas? I have bought a house with a convenient gas line in the garage. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks! Eric Schoville Madison, Wisconsin Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 08:52:18 -0700 (PDT) From: roger789 at sonic.net Subject: RE: Erlenmeyer Flasks I make starters in 1000mL erlenmeyer flasks on my electric stove (and I just got a 2000mL flask that I will use for lager step-ups). I will say first that it is much easier to regulate the temperature on gas stoves than it is on an electric range, at least until you get used to it. In short, you can do it. To prevent sticky boilovers, my suggestion is to slowly ramp up the wort temp until you get to the minimum stove setting necessary for a boil. I'd rather spend 30min to get to and complete a starter boil than spend any amount of time scrubbing caramelized wort off of burner elements & the stove. Roger Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 12:05:07 -0400 From: "May, Jeff" <Jeff.May at uscellular.com> Subject: Pressure Gauges I have a 5# CO2 tank with a double regulator. Each reg has a 30psi gauge and I have a 4000psi gauge on the high side. I have gone through 3 low side pressure gauges in as many years. Best I can figure is that when I turn on the gas too fast or quickly release the pressure, the needle bounces and somehow the mechanism gets sprung. I have had failures where it rests at something other than zero and I have also had it totally pegged off scale (wrapped around). I just blew my third one and I decided to open it up to see what's going on inside. The workings are pretty simple but delicate. I managed to get the needle reset and it seems to be functional. I dug out the two other blown gauges and 'fixed' those as well. However, they all seem to read different now. Is there a way to calibrate these things? I still need to buy a replacement gauge, but are there any ingenious ways of checking the accuracy besides building a manifold and comparing it to a new reference gauge? Is anyone else having problems with popping these, or am I just heavy handed with my CO2 valve? Jeff May Wilmington, NC AR[649.7,148.6] Return to table of contents
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