HOMEBREW Digest #484 Wed 29 August 1990

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: hefe weizen, Belgium tour, (Dick Schoeller - ZKO2-3/R56 - DTN 381-2965  28-Aug-1990 0844)
  Brewpubs and Homebrewer Info (John DeCarlo  )
  Question to all grain brewers (Greg Roody - 276-8682  28-Aug-1990 0941)
  Why do soda pop recipes not explode? (Tim Phillips)
  Re: Rasberry Stout (Mark.Nevar)
  Labelling Requirements (Marc San Soucie)
  kegs (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Beer Hunter (ROSS)
  lots-o-trub (Paul L. Kelly)
  A little off the subject.... (Peace Through Superior Swordplay.)
  Homebrew Digest #483 (mailman)
  Making a Stout (bob)
  10 gallon batch size (Kim Mills)
  Lagering and Thermostats (dreger)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #483 (August 28, 1990) (peterde)

Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com Archives available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Aug 90 05:45:15 PDT From: Dick Schoeller - ZKO2-3/R56 - DTN 381-2965 28-Aug-1990 0844 <schoeller at kobal.enet.dec.com> Subject: Re: hefe weizen, Belgium tour, Michael, Dark Weizen with Yeast is a dark beer (use some dark malt or extract in the recipe) made in the Bavarian style. I would recommend starting from one of Papazian's recipes (sorry, I'm at home and don't remember the name) and substitute some dark malts in the recipe. The mention of yeast in the name is an indication that it is bottle conditioned rather than artificially. This style is not one of the ones in which lactobacillus is encouraged. Those styles are more typical of the north (Belgium and Berlin). Todd, In Belgium, the advisability of speaking French is dependent on location. In the north, where Flemish (a dialect of Dutch) is spoken, you will be treated better speaking English than French. In any case, English is widely spoken and you should have no problem getting by in English. Dick Return to table of contents
Date: Tuesday, 28 Aug 1990 08:45:18 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo ) Subject: Brewpubs and Homebrewer Info Hello, Sorry if this results in duplicate information, but I am asking again because the information tends to be volatile. 1) I will be in Pasadena, CA for a week, followed by a week in San Francisco. I would very much appreciate info on good brewpubs, brewery tours, and other such places to visit of a homebrewing nature. Thanks. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Usenet: at ... at !uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 90 06:46:08 PDT From: Greg Roody - 276-8682 28-Aug-1990 0941 <roody at whzguy.enet.dec.com> Subject: Question to all grain brewers I've wanted to get into all grain brewing, but my one remaining obstacle to trying it is the lack of a pot big enough to boil 5-6 gallons of wort. I read in papazians book that he recommends an 8 gallon (32 Q!) pot, but alas, the only ones I have been able to find are too expensive to justify (~$120 u.s.). Part of the problem is that I don't want to use aluminum because of the acid content of the wort. My question is: What do all grain brewers out there cook in? Is it possible to use two smaller pots? Is there a sneaky substitute? Thanks, Greg PS - in my submission to HBR #482 for a Ale Yeast Sourdough Bread recipe, I wrongfully included composite characters. These translated to "=" signs in the final product. To use the recipe, just insert 1/2 where you see an "=" sign. Sorry. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 90 08:08:02 PDT From: tcp at phobos.ESL.COM (Tim Phillips) Subject: Why do soda pop recipes not explode? The recently discussions on beer grenades prompts me to ask, "Why do my soda pop recipes not overcarbonate in the bottles and explode?" I'm afraid that yeasties have me confused on this one. There is *plenty* of sugar left when you open the bottles, even a year later (I think there is roughly 10 tsp of sugar per 12 oz bottle). The yeast just carbonate the bottle and quit. The only explanation that I have been able to come up with so far is that there are no yeast nutrients (surprise, surprise-- no human nutrients either!) in the ingredients, so the yeast use up their reserves and quit. Somehow this amount is just enough to carbonate the bottle and no more. Anybody else have other ideas? I may try an experiment on a small batch and add some malt extract to the recipe to see if the soda goes *POP*. I figure the more I (we) can learn about yeast, the better! Timothy Phillips tcp at esl.ESL.COM [Disclaimers? ESL doesn't want me to even admit that I work here!] Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 90 10:16:31 mdt From: Mark.Nevar at hp-lsd.cos.hp.com Subject: Re: Rasberry Stout Funny you should mention the stout recipe. My wife and I just picked the 11 pounds of rasberries this weekend. I pre-boiled the water last night. I'm looking forward to the wort-making tonight. I'll report on my (expected) problems tomorrow. Mark Nevar Make it make it make it make it. (pause) It's good!! It's good!! - Homer Simpson Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 90 09:50:30 PDT From: marcs at SLC.COM (Marc San Soucie) Subject: Labelling Requirements Rick Noah Zucker writes: > Gary Benson writes: > > NEWSFLASH! Washington State Legislature has recently passed the first state > > law in the country requiring beer to be labeled with percentage of alcohol. > > I have mixed emotions. On the one hand, it will be interesting to find out > > how the old swill compares, but I also wonder if this is a ploy to help > > beer drinkers stomach the anticipated NEW FEDERAL (read my lips) beer tax. > > Or a way to later justify tacking on a STATE beer tax..."after all, we got > > the % printed on the label, why should you object to paying a few extra > > pennies per six pack?" > Actually, as I understand it, this proposal has the support of > the local brewers like Rainier. Federal law prohibits brewers from > saying how much alcohol is in their beer unless there is a state law to > the contrary. So, this would require the big national brewers to have > two labels, one for Washington State and one for the rest of the country. > This would be expensive for them. Brewers like Rainier and Olympia who do > most of their business here in Washington would have an advantage. > It is sort of ridiculous that wine and liquor have alcohol > percentages on their labels, but not beer. Why should we be treated > differently? This whole thing is even goofier that this, when you figure that just about every packaged food sold in this country is required by Federal law to display its ingredients on the packaging. Except for booze. Doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. Seems there ought to be a nice, simple little Federal law requiring all beer, wine, and booze bottlers to put ingredients and alcohol content on every bottle so we know what we're ingesting when we ingest. It's required on apple juice. It's required on frozen pizza. Where does beer get off with this unlabelled business? Well, we all know, don't we? Old Anheuser would throw a fit if it had to reveal the vast array of extra goodies they toss into their beers... I don't buy the tax arguments, incidentally. Washington State does have a history of doing things like this for reasonably altruistic reasons, such as letting people know how alcoholic their beer is. This is by no means a crime. And by the way, where does apple juice get off not having to put deposits on its bottles? Marc San Soucie The John Smallbrewers Portland, Oregon marcs at slc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 90 11:31:52 mdt From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: kegs My Cornelius kegs, hoses, CO2 tank, and regulator arrived on my doorstep yesterday. Also, my keg float assembly arrived yesterday. Wouldn't you know it, but the packages arrived on one of the hottest days this summer (in Chicago) and I had ordered some Wyeast along with the keg supplies. Before I forget, let me try answering Gary's querys on kegs. My tanks (purchased new - see below) are rated at 130 psi (the orange label on the side says so). The lid is metal and has a relief valve in it -- I don't know at what pressure it fires, but there is a ring in the top of it to manually release pressure. Here's the info on my order: Foxx Equipment Co. 421 Southwest Blvd. Kansas City, MO 64108 [there is another location also, but I don't recall where it is] 1-800-821-2254 I ordered from John Bryan, who was quite helpful. 3 - 5gallon "ball-lock" kegs (non-Coke) 2 - hoses (one regulator -> keg, one keg to plastic schnozzel) 1 - 20 lb. CO2 tank imprinted with "ALKOR BREWING" 1 - double gauge regulator (one for tank pressure, one for keg) Without shipping the price was $367.06. With shipping from KC to CHI, the total was $382.39. Alas, they don't accept credit cards -- I had to send a check. I ordered on 8/15, John called me back 8/16 with the total (after packing and weighing), I sent out a check on 8/16, and received the packages 8/27. No complaints except that I would have rather charged it. Also, here's a bit of data that I have yet to see on the net: according to Foxx, a 5 lb. CO2 tank is good for dispensing 10 to 13 - 5 gallon batches. Foxx has a Hombrewer's kegging kit, but I upgraded from the 5 lb. tank to a 20 lb. (I don't know why), added two extra kegs, and upgraded from a one gauge to a two gauge tank. In retrospect, I would probably recommend two 5 or 10 lb. tanks instead of one 20 lb. because you can have a tank on your system at all times, even while one of your tanks is being filled. The Wyeast and float systems were purchased from Wine and Brew by You in Florida. The reason I got the float systems is because I figure that since the beer clears from the top down, I might as well draw the beer out that way (then I'm always getting the clearest beer in the keg). Here's the info on W&BbY and the system: >Date: Fri, 5 Jan 90 17:00:29 EST >aem at mthvax.cs.miami.edu (a.e.mossberg) >Subject: Converting a soda keg for homebrew > > >The conversion consists of removing the pickup tube going to the >bottom of the keg, cutting it off several inches below the top, >reinstalling it in the keg, and attaching a plastic tube with a >float mechanism to keep the end of the flexible tube slightly >below the surface of the beer. > >A kit consisting of all the parts you need for the float assembly >is available from Wine and Brew By You. I use it in all my kegs >(8 or 9) and have not had any problems with the system. Wine and >Brew By You - 5760 Bird Rd, Miami 33155 (305) 666-5757 > >aem I ordered on 8/20 and got the shipment via UPS 8/27 (credit cards accepted). The float systems were $3.50 each and the Wyeast packs were $2.99 each. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 90 13:56 EDT From: ROSS at mscf.med.upenn.edu Subject: Beer Hunter Date sent: 28-AUG-1990 13:50:59 Did anybody else watch Michael Jackson's Beer Hunter episode of the beers of Belgium. I noticed a commercial for the entire series on video for something like $35. They say it's a 3 hour series but when you watch it on TV there must have been about 10 minutes of commercials in that 30 minute slot. Does this mean that the original production is edited for TV and perhaps the best 10 minutes of the program are being deleted for commercials. The show did seem a bit choppy and had a lack of continuity. On another note, I noticed a meal being served in the show that included hop shoots. Has anybody ever eaten hop shoots? How should they be prepared? --- Andy Ross --- University of Pennsylvania Medical School Computer Facility ross at mscf.med.upenn.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 90 13:04:45 EST From: pkel at psych.purdue.edu (Paul L. Kelly) Subject: lots-o-trub I recently made an IPA (basic recipe from Charlie P's CJOHB), and encountered an incredible cold break. Previously I had ended up with, oh, about one and a half to two inches of trub in the bottom of the carboy, but this time it was spectacular! I would estimate that I had about a gallon of sediment. So for the first time, I ended up racking the wort immediately after the cold break, and I was faced with another problem -- not enough wort in the carboy to blow off during early fermentation. So I added about a gallon of water to the carboy (I had already reached the 'oh what the hell' point and wasn't really worried), pitched yeast and attached a hose. Fermentation lasted two weeks, and the beer lasted about a week once it was ready to drink. All in all, a successful and happy brewing result. My question is this: Why did I end up with so much trub this time? Was it the toasted malted barley (I used klages)? That's all I can think of -- the malt extract I used was Steinbarts Light, I've used it before without this rather bizarre result. Also, adding a gallon of water to the wort didn't seem to hurt things; fermentation lasted longer than normal, and the alcohol con- tent was pretty high (unmeasured, but I would say about 8%). Would I have ended up with a really sweet IPA had I not diluted? I know that I haven't provided a complete recipe on this, but I don't have my log with me, and it has been about a month or so since I brewed, so mem- ory has faded to some extent (possibly due to the IPA itself :). So let's hear it: any other brewers out there wading through hip-deep trub? If so, any suggestions as to how it can be avoided in the future would be appre- ciated. Thanks in advance, Paul pkel at brazil.psych.purdue.edu | I think <----+ |"Cows!" - Owen, _Throw Paul L. Kelly | | | |Mama from the Train_ Dept. Psych. Sci., Purdue Univ. | \|/ | | "Humpty Dumpty was pushed!" | Therefore, I am ->+ |Hail Saccharomyces! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 90 15:17 EDT From: <BILODEAP%BCVMS.BITNET at mitvma.mit.edu> (Peace Through Superior Swordplay.) Subject: A little off the subject.... Sorry about this, bu tI need to ask: What is the best *NON-Toxic* method of sterilizing bottles? TIA Pierre DesChats PS This is a total aside.... Some friends have developed a scheme to bankrupt the Jehova's Witnesses. Anyone interested (or who wants to flame), write to me directly-- don't waste the space here. Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Aug 90 12:36 -0800 From: mailman at hprnd Subject: Homebrew Digest #483 Your message could not be delivered to: Jonh COTTERILL / HPD500 as they could not be found at the destination location. It has been delivered to General DELIVERY on that location for the HPDESK Administrator to attempt to forward it to the correct location. This message was created on computer: TRAPPER Return to table of contents
Date: Tue Aug 28 16:00:36 1990 From: semantic!bob at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Making a Stout Hello Everybody? A few people have been talking about stouts lately and I'm getting ready to brew one myself. I have a few questions though. I am planing on making the Toad Spit Stoat from Papazian's book. 1) The recipe recommends the use 1 3/4 oz of Bullion Hops. However I have 2 oz of fresh Northern Brewer hops hanging around. So I was planning on subsisting ounce for ounce. Does anybody have experience or an opinion on this? 2) The recipe calls for 8 Table spoons of Gypsum. This is an extract recipe so I shouldn't need to condition my water for mashing. What's the purpose of adding all these minerals? Does it add some sort of texture? 3) I like my stouts a little sweet so I was thinking of adding in 1/2 Cup of light molasses. Does anybody have experience or an opinion on molasses? 4) This recipe is claimed to be similar to Guinness Stout, which I *really* like on tap! Any advice on making recipe closer to Guinness? Much Thanks in Advance, - -- Robert A. Gorman (Bob) bob at rsi.com Watertown MA US -- - -- Relational Semantics, Inc. uunet!semantic!bob +1 617 926 0979 -- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 90 16:39:41 -0400 From: kim at nova.npac.syr.edu (Kim Mills) Subject: 10 gallon batch size Can anyone report on their experience with 10 gallon size batches of homebrew? I would like to brew a larger volume than 5 gallons and still use my stove top. I welcome suggestions on economical sources of brewing kettles, and practical suggestions on handling 10 gallons of boiling wort--safety, evenly distributing the heat source in the mash, etc. Thanks, Kim Mills Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 90 14:40:36 PDT From: dreger at seismo.gps.caltech.edu Subject: Lagering and Thermostats I just got a used refrigerator to brew in and the warmest it gets is 41 F. Is this to cold to lager in? I've seen recipes in which you start the fermentation at room temperature (in my case 80 F) and then put it in the refrigerator at 42 to 55 F. Can this practice shock the yeast ? I've seen that some people gradually reduce temperatures to reduce the chance of shocking the yeast. I cannot easily do this as there is very little control of the temperature in this particular refrigerator. I've thought that I may begin fermentation while the refrigerator is in defrost mode and then turning the temp down. Any ideas on this ? Finally, is it possible to install a more sensitive thermostat (with the range from 32 F to about 60 F). If so where can the thermostat be obtained. Ideally I like to use the fridge for both lagers and ales since it is so warm in southern California. Thanks Doug Return to table of contents
Date: Tue Aug 28 16:45:09 1990 From: microsoft!peterde at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #483 (August 28, 1990) |Rick Noah Zucker writes in Homebrew Digest #483: | |Actually, as I understand it, this proposal [to put alcohol % on labels] |has the support of the local brewers like Rainier. Federal law prohibits |brewers from saying how much alcohol is in their beer unless there is a |state law to the contrary. So, this would require the big national brewers |to have two labels, one for Washington State and one for the rest of the |country. This would be expensive for them. Brewers like Rainier and |Olympia who do most of their business here in Washington would have an |advantage. Is anyone out there really worried whether Anheuser Busch or Miller or Coors or your-favorite-megabrewer can afford such a cost? Of course they'll complain, because it's a real expense, but nothing they can't handle. Now, for small breweries, it's another story--especially for those breweries attempting to sell in several states. (This goes for many West-coast microbreweries who sell in Washington state.) Charles Finkel, president of Merchant Du Vin, a local beer importer here in Seattle (offices across the country, too) objects to the proposal on the grounds that smaller-quantity brewers and importers would be paying a disproportionate amount of new-label money relative to the amount of beer they sell. Imports such as Orval, which are expensive to begin with, become more prohibitive, given the added cost of special labels. Also, imports are typically bought by the container (how many bottles in a container, 2500?), which would make it difficult for a distributor to sell, for example, Orval, knowing that instead of their usual 10 or 20 cases, they'd have to sell the whole container. Not enough demand. Bad economics. One possible solution is to put stickers on the labels. Simple, effective, and cheap. Just make sure they're sticky enough to stay on the bottles. | | It is sort of ridiculous that wine and liquor have alcohol |percentages on their labels, but not beer. Why should we be treated |differently? I agree. Let's not soak the small outfits, though, since they produce the beer most worth preserving. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #484, 08/29/90 ************************************* -------
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 06/29/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96