HOMEBREW Digest #4979 Wed 22 March 2006

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
Visit http://www.northernbrewer.com  to show your appreciation!
               Or call them at 1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Re: Oxygen scavenging caps (Fred L Johnson)
  RE:  Thermometers ("David Houseman")
  Iron ("A.J deLange")
  RE: Oxycaps - The Final Word (yeah, sure) (jeff)
  Re: Thermometers ("Ronnie Anderson")
  Iron removal from well water (Jeffrey Byers)
  Re: Did I re-invent Real Ale? (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Thermometers (Dylan Tack)
  welding plans for conical fermenter ("Ben Dooley")
  RE: theremometers ("Benjy Edwards")
  Yeast handling (zukoskyrobert)
  Re: Diacetyl Rest for Ales ("Greg 'groggy' Lehey")
  Re Thermometers ("Pete Calinski")

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Suppport this service: http://hbd.org/donate.shtml * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning, and Spencer Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 07:00:57 -0500 From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: Oxygen scavenging caps More opinions continue to come in on oxygen scavenging caps, but I've yet to hear the mechanism. If we understand how they work, it would avoid a lot of speculation and guessing about what activates them/destroys them. I suspect there are different technologies behind different brands of these types of caps. Does anyone have any knowledge about how these actually work? I've read that one approach is to embed elemental palladium behind a gas permeable membrane in the liner. The palladium catalyzes the reaction of hydrogen, introduced intentionally into the headspace as a combination of nitrogen and hydrogen, with oxygen to make water. 2 H2 + O2 = 2 H20 I doubt this is the technology behind the various caps that are commonly available at homebrew suppliers. The caps distributed by Crosby & Baker are made by Bruninghaus (Germany), but I can't find out how their caps work. Bruninghaus offers "oxygen barrier" and "scavenger" crowns, and I'm trying to find out which of these Crosby & Baker supplies and how one could recognize the difference by looking at them. Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 07:16:36 -0500 From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net> Subject: RE: Thermometers I've got a number of thermometers and I'd love it if any two read the same. There's a saying that a man with a watch thinks he knows the time but a man with two watches is never sure. Same with thermometers. The most accurate one I had was a NIST traceable digital thermometer (until I dropped it into boiling wort). That's where I'd start. The better alcohol thermometers seem to be more accurate than the bi-metal probe thermometers. Narrower range thermometers seem to be more accurate than the broader range ones. If you find a solution to this one please post for everyone's benefit.... David Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 12:34:17 +0000 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Iron For Dylan: Iron is easily removed by exposing the water to air. This will oxidize clear water Fe(II) ions to Fe(III) which will immediately form the ugly gray, orange or brown (depending on amount) hydroxide. You then filter the water leaving the hydroxide behind. Aeration can be acheived by pouring the water back and forth between containers, blowing compressed air through it (with an aeration stone but make sure compressed air has been filtered for oil droplets), spraying it through a shower head or nozzle, agitating it or whatever gets lots of oxygen into contact with it. Filtration can be done with a wound filter or filter paper (slow) or (per Noonan's books) a bed of clean sand (kids play sand). You can even backwash the sand and use it again. Obviously this process works better if the pH is high but the aeration will scrub the CO2 out of most low pH water so you shouldn't have to worry about that. A.J. PS: ppm as CaCO3 is an archaic way of expressing normality, not molarity. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 04:36:54 -0800 (PST) From: jeff at henze.us Subject: RE: Oxycaps - The Final Word (yeah, sure) I've heard they are activated by wetting as well. Which naturally leads to the next question: Since I sanitize my caps prior to using them in idophor, does that mean that they are ruined before they are even used? Or (more realisticly) if I sanitize caps, but don't use all of them in a bottling session, will they be "used up" by the time I try to use them for the next batch? They seem like a waste to me. I've used them, but only because that's what the store had on hand. If you are bottle conditioning, isn't the O2 absorbed by the yeast anyway? Granted it may cause some off flavors in the time between when it was bottled and when the O2 is absorbed, but is it really a much shorter time frame than if you use the caps? Lack of in-your-face marketing (and facts) by the bottle cap manufacturers leads me to beleave that the O2 absorbing caps really don't do a lot for you. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 08:57:42 -0500 From: "Ronnie Anderson" <rjanderson1 at gmail.com> Subject: Re: Thermometers > Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 17:41:14 -0500 > From: "Paul Deniston" <pdeniston at gmail.com> > > The model I bought is made by Pyrex... a picture can be found at > http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ > B00004RC4R/103-5279994-0654200?v=glance&n=284507. > (URL on two lines because it was making HBD reject my post) > I wouldn't recommend it, if anyone else is looking for a thermometer. The same exact thing happened to my first one of these. You have to be extremely careful about getting the area where the metal probe crimps onto the wire wet. I think I read that in the manual of the second one I bought, and I've been using it without problem for the last several brews. Ronnie Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 09:18:50 -0600 From: Jeffrey Byers <jbyers at yakfarm.net> Subject: Iron removal from well water Dylan, You don't say how much Fe is in your water or what form Fe2+ or Fe3+. I doubt if you can taste it, that it comes from the pipes. Your water would need to be fairly acidic to dissolve enough iron from the pipes to taste. Fe3+ is "easy" to remove. add oxygen to water, wait until rust forms (orange tinted water) then filter. Most commercial iron filters work on this principle. Ours simply sucks in air when the well pump runs. The water sits in the pressure tank then passes through a filter bed tank on the way to the house. works well for low iron levels and slow water usage. The filter bed is basically a sand bed but most use "green sand." Green sand is sand coated with layer of Manganese oxide that promotes the oxidation. Sometimes it is mined naturally as glauconite. It needs to be backwashed every third or fourth day to remove the collected rust. It does this automatically at night. A faster job of the oxidation is done using Sodium Hypochlorite (bleach) Some commercial iron filter systems use a bleach drip prior to the holding tank. This will remove very large levels of iron very quickly. The owner adjusts how much bleach is bled into the water depending upon how much iron is in the system. Too much bleach and it tastes like it. Too little bleach and the iron remains. For Fe2+ dominant water, Potasium permanganate systems are used. They use a solution of KMnO4 instead of bleach. I'd avoid these systems since Permanganate can be poisonous. Some Permanganate systems use it only during backwash to replenish the Green Sand. These are I guess quite safe. The air only system we have doesn't remove all of the iron just enough so it doesn't stain clothes in the washer and not taste minerally. I make one gallon "iron free" water by adding a small amount of bleach to 4+ quarts of water. Stirring vigorously and allowing to sit overnight to several days. I filter the water through a membrane filter and remove the Chlorine using either campden tablets or boiling. I never make more than a gallon of iron free water this way. I live with the iron in my beer. Making 12 gallons of brewing water would be a pain. If you can find a supply of filter quality "Green Sand" you can probably make your own gravity flow iron filter. Garden store sell a variety of glauconite that has all kinds of stuff in it. Not sure if I would filter water with this. quick internet search found this supplier http://www.advancedh2o.com/products/brochures_html/media/birm.html http://www.advancedh2o.com/products/brochures_html/media/greensand.html Doesn't appear to be cheap though. Maybe smaller quantities can be found elsewhere. regards, jefe Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 10:52:56 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jsrenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Did I re-invent Real Ale? "Brian McGovney" <brian.mcgovney at gmail.com>, who neglects to tell us where he's from (but a quick google of "Strand Brewers' Club" reveals that it, at least, is in South Bay, Los Angeles County, California) ;-) , asks: > Did I re-invent Real Ale? Yes. I generally keep my ales, or at least British style ones, at cellar temperature, which is 52F/16C right now, and under about 3-6 psi. Then when I dispense it, it still has a little too carbonation for my taste. So I use a "pocket beer engine," which is a small syringe with a narrow orifice. I suck a few cc's of beer up, then squirt it forcefully back into the beer. This raises a creamy head and de- fizzes the ale. Result: a perfect pint. Note - if you are doing this with a really carbonated beer, be sure to allow lots of head space. See my previous post at http://www.hbd.org/hbd/archive/ 3693.html#3693-16 for a more detailed discussion of the subject, including warming a too-cold beer. Of course, the best way to do all this is to have a real beer engine. I served a British-style best bitter (1.038, ~30 IBU) on hand pump this past Saturday evening at my annual St. Patrick's Day party (I re-christened the ale "Irish Red Ale" for the occasion). The crowd drained the five gallon corney just about as things were winding down. I think that pulling the pump was part of the appeal, but the beer was mighty good. Even though it was an American crowd, albeit a sophisticated one, no one complained about warm, flat beer. Of course, most of them come every year and know what to expect, and even look forward to it. No one asked for a Bud Lite. Jeff - --- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, jsrennerATumichDOTedu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 10:06:41 -0600 From: Dylan Tack <dylan at io.com> Subject: Re: Thermometers > Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 16:24:20 -0800 (PST) > From: tpunk at riseup.net > > like to hear if anyone has recommendations for non-crappy > thermometers. I'm partial to the long glass thermometers. I have several that I bought from mcmaster.com, part 38935K64 for $11.15 each. If you like digital, some guys in my homebrew club have reported good results with this one: http://www.vwrsp.com/catalog/product/index.cgi?object_id=0013422 -Dylan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 11:12:42 -0500 From: "Ben Dooley" <bendooley at gmail.com> Subject: welding plans for conical fermenter Does anyone know where I can find some? I've been toying with the idea of building my own for a while now, but I've never had the chance to inspect a real one and don't really know where to get started. If anyone could point me in the right direction, it would be an enormous help. Thanks very much! Ben Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 11:22:13 -0500 From: "Benjy Edwards" <rdbedwards at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: theremometers >Hello all, >I've recently started doing partial mashes and I need a dependable >thermometer. I unfortunately bought a crappy thermometer and I'd like to >hear if anyone has recommendations for non-crappy thermometers. The one I >bought is digital, which I figure is what I'm looking for, but after using >it twice it is telling me my tap water is 175 F and there's no way to >recalibrate it. It's a 'probe' variety thermometer which is supposed to >be able to stand up to 400 F in the oven, which made me think it would be >ok for brewing. Apparently not. Any suggestions would be greatly >appreciated! > >The model I bought is made by Pyrex... a picture can be found at >http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ >B00004RC4R/103-5279994-0654200?v=glance&n=284507. >(URL on two lines because it was making HBD reject my post) > I wouldn't recommend it, if anyone else is looking for a thermometer. The probe may have gotten water in it. I had this happen a couple of times, and if you super-heat the probe you may be able to fix it. I had a steel probe that was way off, so I heated it in the flame of a propane burner, and it made it work again. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 12:52:02 -0500 From: <zukoskyrobert at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Yeast handling If you have approx 2 oz of yeast slurry having been stored for two months under beer is it better to make a starter with the 2 oz or pull several ml off and feed that? bobz Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 18:26:46 +0100 From: "Greg 'groggy' Lehey" <grog at lemis.com> Subject: Re: Diacetyl Rest for Ales On Monday, 13 March 2006 at 9:02:58 -0500, Pete Limosani wrote: > Folks, > I am making an ESB and using Wyeast 1968. > The description of the yeast says, "Diacetyl production is noticeable and a > thorough rest; 50-70* F is necessary." > I usually do a diacetyl rest when making pilsners by raising the temperature > from 50* to 60-65* for a day or two. My understanding is that the increase in > temperature is an important part of getting the yeast going to reduce the > diacetyl. > How does one do a diacetyl rest at 50-70* for an ale when the ale is > fermenting at 70*? Won't cooling it down reduce the yeast activity? > Should I just leave the brew in the carboy for a few days after fermentation > is complete? I asked this question a while back when brewing with the same yeast, and in the end came to exactly this conclusion: after fermentation, leave the beer sitting on the yeast cake at about 18<insert degree sign here>C, about 65<insert degree sign here>F. The important thing seems to be to give the yeast the chance to reduce the diacetyl, not the change in temperature. Greg - -- Finger grog at lemis.com for PGP public key See complete headers for address and phone numbers Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 20:56:01 -0500 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Re Thermometers Those thermometers are a POS. I bought one years ago and found that liquid can get in the probe where the braid is crimped. It failed like yours and I called because it was still under warrantee. They said to dry it out in an oven and then be careful to keep the crimp above any liquid line. Well I was able to dry it but soon it failed again even though I handled as they said. I think condensation formed inside. So I called again and they sent me another probe under warranty. It also failed the same way. And you can bet I was very careful this time. I gave up because it was out of warrantee. Makes a nice timer though. In the last year I saw an identical one at Target, different name but exactly the same item. It has a piece of tubing of some kind in the crimp and since it was at a very good price, I bought it but only for use on the grill. Well, the new one failed in a similar way. I called the maker (or marketer might be a better term) and they said I shouldn't have gotten it wet. I said (a) I didn't because of my previous experience (b) the directions said nothing about keeping it dry, and (c)a I used it only on the grill. He said I can't leave it in during grilling, too hot???, and not to let the braid contact the grill case. He said he would send me a new one but that would be the last one because I was mistreating it. I told him he will have to supply me as many as I need because I was handling them as directed and not doing anything that the instructions said I shouldn't. Well, I got the new probe. This time the entire thing is in a Teflon type tube from plug to probe. I use it a little on the grill but basically I'm fed up with it. Sorry to give you the bad news. Hope this helps. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY http://hbd.org/pcalinsk *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 03/23/06, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96