HOMEBREW Digest #5387 Mon 04 August 2008

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  Re: Hop Questions [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED] ("Williams, Rowan")
  Re: Will I ever find Mr. Right? (Dick Adams)
  Re: Hop Questions/Advice ("Keith Anderson")
  Re: Matching the beer to the festival (Tim Bray)
  RE: The Works on the History Channel ("Josh Knarr")
  starter size vs. esters (Jim D)
  Re: Aeration on the hot and cold side (Kai Troester)
  Fermenting in used plastic LME drum ("Keith Anderson")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 13:52:49 +1000 From: "Williams, Rowan" <Rowan.Williams at ag.gov.au> Subject: Re: Hop Questions [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED] >>> Overall, my homegrown cascades lacked the oomph of "professionally" grown cascades and suspected I wasn't getting a very high %AA due to some missing nutrient from my soil but that was just a guess. Keith <<< Good point Keith! Down here in Canberra, the winter frosts are currently in full swing (minus 3C this morning!) and I'm eagerly awaiting the dawn of spring after planting five varieties of hop rhizomes in the front yard (with SWMBO's full permission!!) in late Autumn. Some plantings are straight out of large pots where the root balls became too large for the confines of the tub and I simply trimmed the root ball and buried it in the dirt along with some cow manure - others are rhizome cuttings which I expect will take a season or two to establish properly (although the PoR flowered in year one!). Local wisdom suggests that well drained soil, enriched with cow manure is enough. I've also bought a bag of sulfate of potash when I read that it helps encourage flowering. Can any of you experienced hop growers suggest a good general purpose fertiliser or feeding regime that my newly established hop field will get extra oomph from? For those who are curious, the varieties planted / relocated are: Pride of Ringwood, Chinook, Cascade, Mt Hood and Goldings. Cheers, Rowan Williams Canberra Brewers Club, Australia [9588.6, 261.5] AR (statute miles) - ---------------------------------------------------- If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 00:34:36 -0400 (EDT) From: rdadams at panix.com (Dick Adams) Subject: Re: Will I ever find Mr. Right? > <Poem deleted) My childbride and I were just discussing how we need two more wives. One to do cooking and cleaning and the other to help me brew and garden. When I asked her "Do you think this is possible?" She replied "No, you're too damn picky." LoL > phone number 234-7081-548-655 What kind of phone number is this? Will it cost $5.00/minute? ;) Dick Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 10:34:42 -0400 From: "Keith Anderson" <keithxanderson at gmail.com> Subject: Re: Hop Questions/Advice Amos Brooks writes: >Keith, > I think what is happening with the freezing non-dried hops becoming >mush is ice crystal formation. If you don't want that to happen you >need to flash freeze the hops so that the freezing happens so fast the >crystals don't have a chance to form. I'm not sure the ice crystals >are really a bad thing though. They will rupture the cell walls of the >plant and make it easier to get the contents out. This is good for >berries as it breaks up pectins that form and releases the sugars more >realily. I'm not sure about the hops though. Good point, I did my best to get the hops into a freezer back and suck out the air but probably didn't do as good a job as a kitchen vacuum sealer. Guess if you seal it up well and freeze w/out crystals you can keep the hops in better shape. I have a feeling rupturing the cell walls wouldn't be desirable since you want lupilin/oils but not necessarily all that plant material in your beer. Keith Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 08:55:26 -0700 From: Tim Bray <tbray at wildblue.net> Subject: Re: Matching the beer to the festival Chad, I'm curious - can you name a beer you would say is NOT a "craft beer"? If A-B falls within your definition, I'd say it's more than a little loose. What exactly is your definition, and are there any brewers that don't meet it? Tim in Albion > We had the > 2nd annual "Craft Brewer's Competition & Festival" at the San Diego County > Fair in June. I define "Craft Beer" a little loosely. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 14:01:00 -0400 From: "Josh Knarr" <josh.knarr at gmail.com> Subject: RE: The Works on the History Channel > What does anyone's physique or seck-shoo-al preferences (I had to > spell it that way to get through the language filter!) have to do > with their ability to understand, appreciate, or brew beer? Geez. > Does one have to be a hetero bodybuilder to be able to talk about or > brew beer? If a guy or gal can brew a fine pint, I don't give a cr*p > how big their muscles are or who they choose to sleep with. Ding ding ding, the winner. Try watching the first five minutes again, and you'll be asking yourself why he would volunteer this stuff in the first place... ;) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 13:22:42 -0500 From: Jim D <goswell at hotmail.com> Subject: starter size vs. esters I love brewing English Pale Ales and Bitters but I can't seem to get enough of those wonderful fruity esters to come through in the finished product. I've brewed with yeasts that are supposed to be quite fruity such as Wyeast 1968 London ESB and 1318 London Ale III. I usually create a nice big starter in the range of 2 liters. The starter goes for 24 - 36 hours and I pitch the whole thing into about 5.5 gallons of wort. It then ferments in the 65 - 68 (ambient temp) degree range. I've read some that pitching a smaller starter will stress the yeast a bit and therefore create more of the esters I'm trying to get. Has anybody experimented with this? //Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 16:07:50 -0400 From: Kai Troester <kai at braukaiser.com> Subject: Re: Aeration on the hot and cold side Jim, the affects of hot side aeration and their relevance for home brewing have been widely discussed among home brewers. Even a frew experiments have been done, many of which showed inconclusive results. Hot side aeration (HSA) has been studied by the commercial brewing industry b/c it was found that it leads to staling compounds that reduce the shelf life of the final product which affects their revenue. As a result of that, modern brewhouses generally exclude O2 as much as possible. Some even go as far as milling the grain in an O2 free environment by either using an inert atmosphere or milling it while submerged in water. In contrast to that I had beers brewed in a small German museum brewery that still uses very old equipment which leaves plenty of O2 exposure to the wort by using an open lauter grant and the run-off simply drops 9 ft into the boil kettle. The beers were excellent and showed me that hot side aeration is not as detrimental to the beer quality as many of the studies make us believe. I did however not test how shelf stable these beers were. While observing good brewing practices (no excessive splashing, don't let the wort cascade into the kettle) you don't have to worry about the unavoidable O2 intake that comes from doughing in the grain and stirring the mash. High dough-in temps, as they are common these days, already help by quickly deactivating an enzyme called lipoxygenase. This enzyme aids in HSA where oxygen forms a weak bond, is carried into the finished beer and later released to oxidize and form staling compounds. In home brewing, the majority of the oxygen responsible for staling is picked up during the handling of the beer after fermentation. Here you should pay attention to splashing, air-leaks in the racking cane to hose connection and bubbling during bottling. Though yeast is known to scavenge O2 during bottle condition, I have read a study that showed that there is still a shelf life difference between a bottle that was purged of O2 before filling and one that was not purged. The conclusion was that the yeast isn't as good in O2 scavenging as initially believed. O2 scavenger caps could help here as well. But from my own experience purging of bottles or scavenger caps are not necessary to avoid oxidation in bottled home brew. For one, our beers are not expected to be shelf stable for a year (except for some stronger beers, most of which actually benefit from some slight oxidation) and we have full control over the storage conditions (i.e. keeping them cool) as well. If you don't have oxidation problems, don't worry to much about this but get in the habit of using (reasonable) low O2 beer handling practices. Kai Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 16:34:33 -0400 From: "Keith Anderson" <keithxanderson at gmail.com> Subject: Fermenting in used plastic LME drum Picked up a 15 gallon LME drum last year and use it to ferment in my chest freezer. It fits with a few inches to spare from the top of the lid allowing me to ferment 10 gallon batches in the freezer with an external thermostat override. Every once in a while I look at the little message on the top of the drum "Notice - do not reuse for food or beverages" and wonder "gee, should I really be using this for fermenting?" Would a plastic drum suitable for shipping LME to a homebrew shop not be safe for fermenting beer? Keith Return to table of contents
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