HOMEBREW Digest #563 Tue 08 January 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  re: Underaged beer at brewpubs (Dick Dunn)
  Re: Patriotic Duty, Homebrew Digest #562 (January 07, 1991) (ferguson ct 71078)
  LA H20 (Darryl Richman)
  LA H2O
  Re: Homebrew Digest #562 (January 07, 1991)  (dbreiden)
  Re:  "Real Ale" (Patrick Stirling)
  Care and feeding of pen-style Ph measuring devices (foster)
  Artificial carbonation (John Freeman)
  Rinsing bottles (John Freeman)
  False Positives (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Re: Keg pressure and carbonation (bob)
  methanol bs (florianb)
  Real Ale (Norm Hardy)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 6 Jan 91 21:50:39 MST (Sun) From: ico.isc.com!rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: re: Underaged beer at brewpubs Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> writes... > ...noah at cs.washington.edu (Rick Noah Zucker) said: > > Rick> ... they do not age their beers very long by our standards. He serves > Rick> the lagers after four weeks, the light ales after one, and something > Rick> like a porter after two. ... > The idea sounds seductively appealing, but I think it's bull. Most -- if > not all -- of the ten or so brewpubs I've been to have had beer that tasted > young... The matter of aging beer seems to come up once or twice a year in the HBD. I've taken--and continue to take--the position that properly-made beer is at its best as soon as possible after it's finished. For lagers, naturally, that doesn't mean a short lagering period is better; it means that they're at their best right at the end of lagering. For ales, younger is almost always better. As soon as an ale has finished fermenting, settled out, and is carbonated, it should be ready to drink. There should be no "off" flavors. I'll go a little further out on the limb and say that there is no such thing as a "young" or "raw" taste for beer (unless you choose to equate "young" and "fresh":-). The tastes which make very young ales unpalatable, or the effects which cause them to taste better with some age, are properly called "faults" in brewing the beer. There are a few mistakes which will give a young ale a harsh taste, and which will age out...but that doesn't mean the aging is necessary; it simply mitigates the mistakes. (I should know; I've made enough of the mistakes.:-) A beer should taste just fine (except for being a bit flat) at bottling time. >...In nearby Baltimore, the stuff at Sissons tastes plain *raw*, with a > watery bitterness typical of a brew that hasn't matured enough... An unpleasant bitterness (as contrasted with the expected pleasant hop bitterness) is generally the fault of extracted tannins, which results from mishandling whole grain. It will age out. --- Dick Dunn rcd at raven.eklektix.com -or- raven!rcd Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 91 09:39:20 EST From: ferguson at x102c.ess.harris.com (ferguson ct 71078) Subject: Re: Patriotic Duty, Homebrew Digest #562 (January 07, 1991) Al Taylor <S94TAYLO%USUHSB.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> writes: >Now I am noone's straightlaced stuffed-shirt, but I do know a little about >Army regulations and the Saudi customs. I would tell Cathy Young's friend >to forget about setting up a still in The Sandbox. A still itself is illegal >anywhere, especially on a military reservation. In a host country that >absolutely prohibits the mere presence of alcohol, let alone production >capability, the offense becomes significantly more serious. >If her friend does build this still, and gets caught, he might be home much >sooner than originally scheduled. Saudi Arabia has two types of police, the regular police and the "religious" police. The latter enforce the religious customs such as the ban on alcohol, the ban on pork products or images (people have had their Porky-Pig comic books confiscated during Saudi airport customs checks), and women's public attire (women who show too much leg can expect to having their ankles swatted with sticks). The religious police can enter your house without a warrant if you are suspected of religous crimes. Also, in Saudi courts if you are a foreigner you are automatically guilty (ask anyone who has ever been in a traffic accident there). On the other hand, Suadi stores sell all the paraphenalia needed to make home-made wine. They have large bottles of Welches grape juice with special mouths that make in-bottle brewing easy. They also sell yeast. Figure that out. Chuck Ferguson Harris Government Information Systems Division (407) 984-6010 MS: W1/7742 PO Box 98000 Melbourne, FL 32902 Internet: ferguson at x102c.ess.harris.com Usenet: uunet!x102a!x102c!ferguson Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 91 06:47:47 -0800 From: darryl at mashtun.ivy.isc.com (Darryl Richman) Subject: LA H20 Subject: LA H2O You can get a free water report by calling up your supplier. Be careful, because, contrary to popular belief, Pasadena *is not* a part of LA, and the water you get is different. Understanding water can be difficult in this land since the water is brought in from all over, and many sources may be mixed. Join the Maltose Falcons (or drop by the Shop 22836 Ventura Blvd. #2, (818) 884-8586) to receive the newsletter and the Feb. issue will have an article on the water in Los Angeles itself. Good brewing, --Darryl Richman (editor, Brews & News) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 91 12:04:40 -0500 From: dbreiden at mentor.cc.purdue.edu Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #562 (January 07, 1991) > Does anyone know a) what the FAA regulations are on transporting alcohol, > in particular homebrew, which of course has no label or liquor stamp, and > b) if the regs prohibit homebrew's transport, how one can circumvent these > (short of bribery, as I am poor) restraint of relaxation. > Please help! > Al Taylor I asked this question a while back and got a variety of responses--they can be summed up as follows: It is perfectly legal to transport the stuff. You may have trouble carrying it on, but this too is legal if the stuff is sealed--I presume that opening it on a plane could be bad, tho'. One story (Pete Soper I think) gives the moral that decent looking labels may help. Of course, care should be taken in packing etc, but if you carry on you'll have take it out & show the officials. I will take the plunge in early March and take some homebrew on a flight to Oregon; if anything odd comes up--I'll share the experience. On a related note, I've heard various rumors about moving liquor and/or beer and wine over state lines being illegal in some areas. Does anyone out there have any real knowledge of this sort of thing? - --Danny Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 91 09:16:40 PST From: pms at sfsun.West.Sun.COM (Patrick Stirling) Subject: Re: "Real Ale" Marc San Soucie writes: >there is basically no difference between garden-variety [...] American >microbrew and garden-variety English Real Ale. I assume that you mean no difference in the brewing techniques? I.e. that no additives are used, and that the beer is not pasteurised or filtered. As a long standing fan of British 'real ale', I think it tastes quite different to any microbrew or brewpub beer I had here in the US! Apart from the expected differences of style that you find between any two 'real' beers, British real ale has virtually no carbonation (could you even pressurize a wooden cask? Actually metal kegs are quite common for real ale too), and is served at "cellar" temperature (i.e. warm by US standards!) either by a vacuum hand pump or by gravity right from the keg. In contrast, all of the American 'real ales' I've had have been served the traditional US way: cold and carbonated, using CO2 pressured taps. As an aside, IMHO a good test of a beer is to let it warm up to room temp and see how it tastes then. Sierra Nevada and Anchor beers improve this way, while Bud etc become even less drinkable than when their taste is chilled out! patrick Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 91 09:43:32 PST From: foster at rumor.enet.dec.com Subject: Care and feeding of pen-style Ph measuring devices I have one of those pen-like electonic Ph measuring devices. I have been using it for about a year now and am basically very happy with it. The docs that came with the meter mentioned that keeping the business end wet (with de-ionised water) would prolong the devices life. I have a few questions that I'd like some help with: 1. What if I dont keep it wet, by how much will the devices life be shortened ?. 2. What techniques do people suggest for keeping it wet between use, assuming I may not brew for a couple of months between uses ? (the protective cap is not a large enough reservoir and it dries out within days). 3. When using, do people just dip it into the mash, or extract liquid only from the tun and then dip into that ?. 4. The supplier of my unit sent me a note recently saying that the manufacturers information for callibration was incomplete, and that I should use distilled water with a know buffer in it to render a Ph of 5.0. I dont understand how callibrating against a known value of 5.0 is any better than a known value of 7.0 (+- .1) - typical distilled water. Any ideas ?. Hoppy new year to all.. Stan. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 91 12:34:58 CST From: jlf at poplar.cray.com (John Freeman) Subject: Artificial carbonation > > Date: Fri, 4 Jan 91 17:49:22 PST > From: kjohnson at argon.berkeley.edu (Ken Johnson) > Subject: keg pressure, carbonation > > I recently filled two kegs with brew and decided to artificially carbonate > instead of dealing with more yeast sediment. I tried bubbling the CO2 from > the bottom at 15-50 psi, and it still didn't carbonate after a three days. > (My pressure guage may be off) Two weeks later the brew is only slightly > carbonated, yet I get a monstrous head in the glass. My beer fridge isn't > working right now, so everything is room temperature. > Questions: > 1.Does the beer have to be refridgerated to hold the carbonation. > 2.Is there something about the C-kegs that gives a giant head upon dispensing > robbing the beer of carbonation. > 3.Has anyone had this problem before, and how did you fix it. > I've artificially carbonated kegs of beer before by filling the keg about half full of beer (4 gals in a quarter barrel), adding CO2 to about 30 psi, and shaking the keg vigorously to get the CO2 to dissolve. Then I'd repeat this, and relieve the pressure to about 10-15 psi. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 91 12:44:04 CST From: jlf at poplar.cray.com (John Freeman) Subject: Rinsing bottles I gave a six pack of homebrew to a friend, and when I got the bottles back, discovered he hadn't rinsed them. So, I decided to take my bottle brush after them. After cleaning the first bottle, I noticed it was much cleaner than other bottles that I had so dutifully rinsed. Upon closer examination, I realized that my bottles all had varying degrees of film on the inside. So yesterday, I modified my bottle brush, put it in the chuck of my drill press, and proceeded to clean four cases of bottles using water, detergent and bleach. They look much better now. How often will I have to do this? Every time I bottle? Every few batches? Every time I rinse? Now that I'm aware of it, I don't think I'll be happy unless I brush clean them every time. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 91 10:15:30 PST From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at PacBell.COM> Subject: False Positives In HOMEBREW Digest #562, the appropriately-named James Brewer asked: > After mashing for a long while we, the fairview brewing cartel, > perform a starch test on the mash. We find that when we add > iodine to the wort we obtain a negative result, indicating a > lack of starch. If we place the iodine on a grain and crush > the grain a little, a positive result is obtained. Would one > expect this? Absolutely! Husk material will respond to iodine in a manner very similar to starch (especially if your color vision is as distorted as mine), which quite often leads new grain brewers to conclude that starch conversion is not complete, when in fact the problem is that their grain is ground, rather than cracked! Your test would indicate to me that everything's just perfect. Don't change your grind! = Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Mon Jan 7 14:40:22 1991 From: semantic!bob at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Re: Keg pressure and carbonation In HBD #562, Ken Johnson writes: > I recently filled two kegs with brew and decided to artificially carbonate > instead of dealing with more yeast sediment. I tried bubbling the CO2 from > the bottom at 15-50 psi, and it still didn't carbonate after a three days. > ... Here's how I do it: 1) Chill you beer as much as you can. (Obviously not below 32F) 2) Turn up your regulator to 30 PSI. 3) Lay your keg on its side. 4) Shake your keg 200 times. (Sort of rolling it back and forth) You may need to shake it more times if you beer is warmer or your shake is less vigorous. The last time I did this I rolled it back and forth 400 times in a nice relaxed manner with the beer chilled to about 40F. It works great. Nice tiny bubbles too. > 1.Does the beer have to be refridgerated to hold the carbonation. > No, just make sure your kegs are sealed good. > 2.Is there something about the C-kegs that gives a giant head upon dispensing > robbing the beer of carbonation. > No, But your dispensing pressure may be to high. I dispense mine at 5 PSI, and store at 10 PSI. If your dispensing pressure is to high then the beer will be squirted out with losts of vigor and cause alot of foaming and thus loss of carbonation. Also, before a serving session let free any excess pressure in the tank via the pressure release valve. > Aaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrgggggghh!! > Relaaaaaaaaaaax! Etc... - -- Robert A. Gorman (Bob) bob at rsi.com Watertown MA US -- - -- Relational Semantics, Inc. uunet!semantic!bob +1 617 926 0979 -- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 91 16:57:35 PST From: florianb at chip.cna.tek.com Subject: methanol bs In yesterday's HBD comes a quote from the world's largest welfare system: > Eight American soldiers have been poisoned by home-brewed alcohol and > hospitalized since Sunday, one in very serious condition, the U.S. military > command said. > The soldiers from the 101st Airborne Division are the first known > casualties of home-brewed liquor since U.S. forces were deployed in Saudi > Arabia, a Moslem country that bans all alcohol. > Today's statement from the U.S. Central Command said the soldiers, who were > not identified, suffered from methanol poisoning, which is a problem > associated with faulty home-brewed alcoholic beverages. > Methanol poisoning, which can lead to blindness or death, was a serious > problem during Prohibition in the 1920s. > OK, here we go... This is 1991, I live on the planet Earth, and Elvis is really dead. It sounds like a rough way to go, but methanol? I just checked with a chemist buddy down at Bend Research. Methanol is obtained from pyrolysis of wood at extremely high temperature. The temperature of boiling water (alcohol) is insufficient to convert ethanol to methanol. Brewer's yeast does not manufacture methanol. I'm not a chemist, but I am a physicist, and I'm inclined to take the chemist's word above that of the military. Sounds to me like typical shithead military propaganda to keep soldiers from doing that which nature and boredom beckons to. Oh, and hey: methanol poisoning in the Prohibition years seems likely to have come from the desperate and direct consumption of methanol-containing fluids, not brewed at home. And finally this note...if soldiers are going blind from something in Saudi Arabia, it's, ah, well... Florian "get real and talk beer" Bell Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 91 21:07:27 PST From: polstra!norm at uunet.UU.NET (Norm Hardy) Subject: Real Ale There is more to Real Ale than meets the tongue, so to speak.... To be an authentic Real Ale, it must be hand pumped from the (preferably) wooden cask; i.e., no CO2. The beer comes to the pub quite young and it is up to the pub to monitor and serve the stuff when best suited. Obviously, the beer changes character as the cask is emptied. There are a few places in Seattle which offer "Cask Conditioned" ale, that which is served from the steel keg but hand pumped. Believe me, there is a big difference in mouth feel when the beer has its own natural carbonation, albeit light, compared to a CO2 pumped beer. Often it is much easier to drink two such beers; they go down so easy! Norm Hardy Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #563, 01/08/91 ************************************* -------
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