HOMEBREW Digest #59 Thu 26 January 1989

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

Contents:
  Update on the Lagering Question (rogerl)
  bottle color (Algis R Korzonas +1 312 979 8583)
  Plastic 2liter bottles (Algis R Korzonas +1 312 979 8583)
  1988 Zymurgy Special Issue (rogerl)
  Pale Ales? (florianb)

Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 26 Jan 89 12:12:09 EST From: rogerl at Think.COM Subject: Update on the Lagering Question >First Time Lagering Questions ... >I checked it this morning and found the water in the lock all on the >wrong side. Well, after 60 hours the water in the fermentation lock is finally on the correct side. This is the first time it has taken so long to get the flocculation to start. Ergo my concern appears to be unwarrented. It seems that none of the books really mentioned this phenomenon. Oh well, guess I'll just relax and let the microbeasties work. Roger Locniskar Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 89 10:56:44 CST From: hplabs!uiucdcs!iwtsf!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 312 979 8583) Subject: bottle color Since we're talking about bottles, I thought I might bring up a few questions about bottle color. I've been using only brown bottles (actually, only bar longnecks which I buy empty, from a bar - including wire frame cases). The reason I've been staying away from green bottles and (God forbid) clear bottles is because I thought I might have a tendancy to worry about my beer being oxidized by light. I've had little reason to change my methods except for the fact that I've recently started brewing less often - mostly because I HATE BOTTLING. I would change to kegging, but I don't have the room for a second fridge at this time. The next best thing is to use larger bottles. In digest#58, Mike Meyer mentioned the JUMBO Beck's bottles and I like the idea, but I don't want to worry about the light. Here's what I think, and I welcome the more educated to put me in my place: I believe that it's UV that causes anything to oxidize faster. I felt more safe using brown bottles because brown seems to be further away from the violet end of the spectrum than green and because the brown bottles are darker. On the other hand, doesn't UV have a hard time getting through regular glass and UV lights are made of quartz (or something like that)? Am I fostering a valid concern or is the difference so small as to be negligible? Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 89 11:00:14 CST From: hplabs!uiucdcs!iwtsf!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 312 979 8583) Subject: Plastic 2liter bottles Mike Meyer's question about plastic bottles remided me of a funny story. Last summer, I spent a lot of time on the beach and subsequently drank a lot of beer to replace the liquids I was sweating out. By about 4 or 5PM, I usually was not in top shape for waterskiing, kneeboarding, or boardsailing, so I decided to cut back on the alcohol and tried those non-alcoholic fruit coolers. Delicious, but expensive (double the cost of beer). Hey, I'm pretty handy, I'll make it myself! I bought a bunch of fruits, ran them through a blender, bottled the brown mess in 2liter plastic bottles and headed for the beach. Not very appetizing, but good tasting. Now, you would think that since I'm a brewer, I should have known what to expect. A week later, I found that the brown liquid had now become carbonated and alcoholic. Back to square one. Three weeks after bottling, my bottles had developed such an outstanding bacterial infection, that I videotaped the opening of a bottle in the back yard. The four foot geyser was spectacular! Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 89 12:32:19 EST From: rogerl at Think.COM Subject: 1988 Zymurgy Special Issue From: "MR. DAVID HABERMAN" >What was the 1988 special issue about and is it worth ordering? It deals with gadgets that homebrews have made to make their life easier. Some interesting stuff. Things like basics on how to make and infusion masher (cheap), how to deal with cornellius (spell?) cans, wort chillers, keg washers (this one uses an old dishwasher) and lots of award winning recipes both extract and all grain type. Plus several other articles of which the subject elude me at this time. There's a recipe for "Intersellar Dark" that's in my queue to do. All in all maybe not the most critical issue to have, but I've found it useful. Roger Locniskar Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Jan 89 09:10:35 PST (Wed) From: florianb%tekred.cna.tek.com at RELAY.CS.NET Subject: Pale Ales? Yesterday, palladin at moore.seas.upenn.edu (Joseph Palladino) raised questions on how to brew a genuine pale ale. Some time back, I posted a query with rec.food.drink asking for pale ale recipes, and got no reply. I've tried the usual 6-7 lbs amber extract, 1 lb crystal malt, and 1/4 lb roasted malt, with 2 oz Cascade boiling, and 1/2 oz Kent Goldings finishing. I obtain a pale ale that is challenging, but nowhere near Samuel Smith's. I have come to the conclusion that the water formula is primary in determining the flavor and body.In addition, knowing when and having the ability to stop fermentation is also useful in obtaining the proper sweetness. My efforts are continuing with variations on the above recipe, but I would love to hear from others as to whether they have found a "genuine pale" recipe. Please?? Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 06/29/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96