HOMEBREW Digest #601 Thu 21 March 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Copper in Beer (Zymurgy-Winter 91) (S94TAYLO)
  Offtaste Beer (Joe Gabriel)
  Acid Carboy Source Near Virginia? (Marc Rouleau)
  Culturing Chimay Yeast:  A Question (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Cleaning your wort chiller (hersh)
  New acid carboys (Darren Evans-Young)
  Re: Sanitizing, Sanity, and Multiple Yeast-Caking (Marc Rouleau)
  Multiple yeast caking (Carl West)
  Cleaning the Bruheat element (BAUGHMANKR)
  BJCP to be given in Charlotte, NC. April 26. (BAUGHMANKR)
  Sorry! (Rick Myers)
  Seattle Beer and Travelling: Summary of Responses (Bill Thacker)
  RE:  Sanity and Insanity, cont. (FATHER BARLEYWINE)
  Beer in the Quad Cities (MC2331S)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 20 Mar 91 06:18 EST From: <S94TAYLO%USUHSB.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Copper in Beer (Zymurgy-Winter 91) One reader doubted that Bud is brewed in copper kettles, but I would guess that it is. Copper is the industry standard for brewing kettles. In my experience, copper has been used in every brewery I have visited or heard about, including Coors (their brewing room is incredible: 40-50 500+barrel kettles all in one room.) Since copper is a micronutrient, the amount required to make rats more healthy, or humans for that matter, is quite small. Since very few homebrewers use copper brew kettles, maybe users of copper immersion coolers SHOULD sanitize right in the wort, to get all the health benefits of homebrew we have been claiming for so many years ("Trust me, honey, it won't give you a hangover, no matter how many you drink.") Al Taylor Uniformed Services University School of Medicine Bethesda, Maryland s94taylor at usuhsb.bitnet Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 91 09:10 EST From: hplabs!ardent!uunet!pdn.paradyne.com!jgg (Joe Gabriel) Subject: Offtaste Beer My beer partner and I have been brewing since early January. Our first batch (came with kit) was a delightful amber. We ventured on to an Ironmaster Lager, then to a John Bull Bitter. The problem that we are experiencing, starting with our second batch and continuing through 3 more batches is, what can be most accurately described as, a "metallic" offtaste in our finished product. We have been pounding our heads trying to figure how to get rid of this repugnant flavor. Here are some of the things we think may be contributing to the problem: 1. second batch (Ironmaster Lager) was 2nd staged in a plastic container for an extra week. 2. heavy bleach solution used to sterilize bottles...rinsed with cool water. 3. inability to chill wort to below 80 degrees before pitching the yeast. 4. again, sterilizing the bottle caps with heavy bleach solution, then rinsing with cool water(caps are taken directly from post-rinse cool water dish, and placed onto filled bottles to be capped). I vote for 2 and 4 for the most likely culprits in the case of the "offtaste" beers. The reasons being, thinking way back when, our first batch bottles were rinsed thoroughly with warm water. Also, the bottle caps used for that batch were not sterilized at all. Admittedly we are novices in this homebrew business, and we appreciate all the help and wisdom we can get from more experienced homebrewers. So, any comments and/or further ideas on how we can rid ourselves of the offtaste we've been experiencing will be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Joe Gabriel P.S. Waiting impatiently for our TCJOHB to be delivered to our bookstore. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1991 12:40:31 EST From: Marc Rouleau <mer6g at fuggles.acc.Virginia.EDU> Subject: Acid Carboy Source Near Virginia? I'd like to get another 6.5 gallon carboy or two. My usual supplier, Alternative Beverage in Charlotte, NC (which has great prices and fast service: call 1-800-365-BREW) only occasionally has them in. Can someone point me to a supplier who's only a UPS zone or two away from me in Charlottesville, VA? -- Marc Rouleau Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 91 7:18:55 PST From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at decwrl.dec.com> Subject: Culturing Chimay Yeast: A Question A question, for brewers who've succeeded in culturing Chimay yeast from the bottle: is that stuff slow and fastidious in its action? Does it normally tend to mostly hang around the bottom of the bottle, adding to the burdens of its parents? Or is it just that I've had two bad batches in a row? The first attempt I threw out after 10 days. It had shown a little activity on about the 3rd through 5th days, but not at all what I'm accustomed to. That didn't surprise me; the bottle was more than 2 years old. The bottle I'm working on now was dated 09-90, but the results are substantially the same. I'm getting about 2 glups per minute after 3 days, with no visible surface activity. This evening I plan to dump the whole works into a flask of starter, laced with yeast nutrient. Maybe that'll help. Is this normal behavior for this yeast? = Martin A. Lodahl Pacific*Bell Staff Analyst = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 91 13:14:52 EST From: hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu Subject: Cleaning your wort chiller B-Brite works real well for cleaning wort chillers. Set the chiller in a bath of B-Brite, leave ti there while your wort boils, rinse it off with cold tap water, then drop it into the boiling wort to assure sterility. Never a problem in 2 years doing it this way. JaH Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 91 12:09:38 CST From: Darren Evans-Young <DARREN at UA1VM.UA.EDU> Subject: New acid carboys What do you acid carboy users do to clean your newly obtained carboys? I've rinsed and rinsed and rinsed with hot/cold water, bleach solution, sodium bicarb., etc., and I still have this slight film that seems to rise to the surface. I dont want to ruin a batch (or have toxic beer). Any suggestions? Darren *---------------------------------------------------------------------------* | Darren Evans-Young, Sys Prg BITNET: DARREN at UA1VM.BITNET | | The University of Alabama Internet: DARREN at UA1VM.UA.EDU | | Seebeck Computer Center Phone: (205)348-3988 / 5380 | | Tuscaloosa, Alabama 35487-0346 (205)348-3993 FAX | *---------------------------------------------------------------------------* Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1991 13:44:46 EST From: Marc Rouleau <mer6g at fuggles.acc.Virginia.EDU> Subject: Re: Sanitizing, Sanity, and Multiple Yeast-Caking On Mar 19, 7:59pm, rransom at bchm1.aclcb.purdue.edu wrote: > > Sound horrid? I have brewed up to 10 "generations" on the same cake > and it is wonderful. The beers get progressively smoother and especially > creamier, with heads to die for and teeny tiny bubbles. The beers are ready > to drink right out of the fermenter, and after three days in the keg with > minimal priming are being drunk. Totally finished. Best idea I ever had. What do you do with your trub? It didn't sound from your description that you were using the cool-way-down-let-warm-overnight-and-rack method I've read about here and in Dave Miller's TCHOHB. I've not tried that method because I hate to waste the wort that inevitably would be left with the trub. Also I generally don't want to have to finish a brewing session the next morning. I'd like to go to sleep with everything all set. I haven't heard much about my method here. I have a fine-mesh nylon straining bag that I use to filter the chilled wort. I put it in a stainless steel colander, suspend the colander above a big bucket, and pour 65 degree wort into it. When it gets clogged I squeeze all the standing liquid through it, dump the dry trub, and continue. 2-3 iterations are enough. The amount of dry trub always amazes me. I'd guess this procedure nets 3-4 cups of it. (I use a half teaspoon of Irish moss during the last 15 minutes of the boil. I don't know how much the Irish moss is responsible for since I've never omitted it.) Perhaps the squeezing is allowing trub to get through, or perhaps the wort isn't chilled enough for it all to precipitate out, but I notice that a half inch of sediment accumulates almost immediately in my carboy. And when the fermentation gets going lots of particles disperse throughout the churning beer. (I'd love to hear comments regarding this approach. With only my eighth batch in the fermenter I still have lots to learn.) How do you deal with trub accumulation? I've heard that the oils in it serve as yeast food and contribute to fusel alcohols and other off flavors. Is this not true? Or do you avoid getting it into the fermenter in the first place? If so, how? Any other single-stagers want to comment on trub? > hideous looking rings of dried yeast have no effect on the next wort (if you > fill the later fermentations past the level of the old one). I imagine that in order to maintain the same volume of beer atop an increasingly thick yeast/trub cake you'd have to fill higher anyway, but I'm surprised that you have been able to use a cake ten times while always filling the fermentor above the level of dried deposits. It seems as though you'd run out of headroom after only two or three batches. Most of my batches were fermented with Wyeast 1007 (German Ale), and the krausen is always at least two inches high. Does Whitbread Ale yeast not froth up as much? Or do your low fermentation temperatures result in a lower level at high krausen? How much does the cake increase in volume from batch to batch? Is it perhaps not critical that the yeast deposits be covered with liquid at the start of a new fermentation? Thanks for the great idea. I'll certainly try it with my next batch. -- Marc Rouleau Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 91 14:19:40 EST From: eisen at ileaf.com (Carl West) Subject: Multiple yeast caking The London Museum Catalogue has a photograph of a 15th century jug that has a tap-hole about an inch from the bottom. The author speculates that it was for holding a liquor that had a sediment. After reading Richard Ransom's article it strikes me that this would be a perfect vessel for making beer (albeit somewhat small, it looks as if it would hold about 1.5 gallons). It is my impression that beer in those times was drunk pretty much direct from the fermenter, no priming, no bottling. If this were the case, I could imagine a modest household having a couple or three of these fermenting jugs in the cellar or buttery which were regularly replenished with wort as they got low. I would guess that with an appropriate yeast, and steady consumption, a steady flow of beer could be maintained. Such a system would not require that the household brewer make huge batches of wort (which would be a plus because BIG pots were at least as hard to come by then as now), but only a gallon or two at a time. It also appears that it would save a good deal on sanitation and cleaning requirements. Seems too simple. Not enough to worry about. Now, Richard, the questions: 1. With this huge `pitching' rate, is the reason you're not getting `yeast bite' the fact that you're not aerating the wort *much*? You've already got the population, all the yeast has to do is get on with it's _anaerobic_ metabolisis (is that a word?). Is that it? 2. What about trub? 3. What happens if you don't remove ALL the beer from on top of the cake (as would likely be the case in the scenario above) before adding the new wort? 4. I'm an extract brewer, is there any thing you would suggest changing in your method to adapt it to extract brewing? -Carl (my second batch is getting better with time) West Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1991 14:52 EST From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: Cleaning the Bruheat element Thought I'd pass along a recent discovery. Much has been said in these electronic pages and others about the problem of caramelization of sugars on the Bruheat element. Thanks to a hint from Tom Fogelsong, formerly of Sebastian Brewers, I've found that the Bruheat element can be painlessly cleaned by adding a gallon or so of water to the Bruheat (enough to cover the element) after a round of beer- making, adding one tablespoon of B-Brite and boiling for a few minutes. The white crust comes off immediately. Blackened crust takes more patience-a couple of boilings, several days of soaking, and then light scrubbing with a non-abrasive pot scrubber. Please pass this advice along to your Bruheat brewing buddies. Sante, Kinney Baughman baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1991 15:00 EST From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: BJCP to be given in Charlotte, NC. April 26. ***ANNOUNCEMENT*** I will be administering the BJCP exam April 26 in Charlotte, NC at the Radisson Plaza Hotel. This exam is being given in conjunction with the US Open Homebrew Competition, also being held that week-end. If you're interested in taking the BJCP exam at that time, please e-mail me. (baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu) Thanks. Kinney Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 91 11:00:37 MST From: Rick Myers <cos.hp.com!hpctdpe!rcm at hp-lsd> Subject: Sorry! Full-Name: Rick Myers Sorry about the improper posting about engines to the Homebrew Digest!!! I don't know what happened with my mailer...(blame it on the computer)! - -- Rick Myers rcm at hpctdpe.col.hp.com Hewlett-Packard Colorado Telecommunications Division Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 91 13:22:33 EST From: Bill Thacker <hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!cbema!wbt> Subject: Seattle Beer and Travelling: Summary of Responses As promised, here is a summary of responses I received about carrying beer on commercial airlines and Seattle beer. On flying froth, my foamy friends freely forwarded the following advice: In general, it was agreed that it is safest to carry on the beer, as opposed to checking it in. One writer suggested wrapping the bottles in socks. Several mentioned that the Gulf situation may have airlines a bit edgier over this, but I understand that the gov't has lifted the big security crunch, so perhaps that's no longer a problem. On the other hand, Subbakrishna Shankar (sxs32 at po.CWRU.Edu) had this horror story: > I once tried to take a couple of bottles of my homebrew >on a domestic flight in my carry on luggage and was unsuccessful. >I was forced to throw away my precious brew, with no reasonable >explanation given. As a tie-breaker, I called Continental. The person I spoke with had to go check with management, but after a few minutes returned and told me that carryon would be best (for my beer's sake, not because of restrictions) and that there should be no problem. I'm swayed by Danny Breiden (dbreiden at mentor.cc.purdue.edu), who suggested that bottles with labels would be more likely to pass a suspicious security guard, and who also recommended against packing too thoroughly -- you might have to open it all up for the guards. Shipping via UPS was generally discouraged; cost is about $7-9 per dozen, and UPS apparently would as soon not haul beer. Also, concern was raised about poor handling and extremes of temperature. On Seattle's finest, a festive flurry of facts flooded forth. Several brewpubs and bars were suggested: Big Time Brewery (University Way N.E. between 41st and 42nd) is very convenient to the University of Washington. Several people recommended it, but without many specific comments. Cooper's Ale House (8065 Lake City Way NE) - Wide variety (15, by one author, 21 by another) of local beers on tap, and prices are reasonable. Dew-wamps (Spelling conjectural) - Apparently a fairly new brewpub near the Kingdome, across from FX McRory's. Emphasis on cask-conditioned ales in the British style. Redhook (or Red Hook, depending on author) Ale Brewery (3600 Phinney Ave. North) - Beer served at The Trolleyman, adjoining. Non-smoking, gives brewery tours. One writer suggested that the same beer can be had for less money four blocks east at the Red Door Tavern (Fremont), which has 20-30 good beers on hand and a good menu. The Latona Pub (6423 Latona NE), Red Door Alehouse (3401 Fremont Ave. N., Fremont) and The Duchess (55th NE) were all recommended as good bars for finding local brews. So was FX McRory's (near the Kingdome); 20 or so beers on tap, including Paulaner, Bass, and Young's, over 80 bourbons, and first-rate food (a steakhouse). Several beers came recommended by name: Kemper Brewing (Hales) - Thomas Kemper Helles Lager, Hales Pale Ale Redhook - Redhook ESB Hart Brewing (Kalama) - Wheaten Ale, Snowcap Ale (seasonal), Sphinx Stout Pacific Brewing Company (address not needed) - one author told me to avoid this place, saying the beer was lousy. Hood River Brewing (Bridgeport, OR) - Full Sail Ale Bridgeport Brewing (Bridgeport, OR) - Blue Heron Pale For buying beer for takeout, Larry's Market (100th and Aurora) was recommended. My gratitude to those who sent in responses (I hope I didn't overlook anyone !): Dave Adams (adams at bostech.com) Joe Peterson (abel at grinder.dataio.Data-IO.COM) John Mellby (jmellby at skvax1.csc.ti.com) Subbakrishna Shankar (sxs32 at po.CWRU.Edu) Jay Hersh (hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Bill Thacker AT&T Network Systems - Columbus wbt at cbnews.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1991 19:04:39 EST From: rransom at bchm1.aclcb.purdue.edu (FATHER BARLEYWINE) Subject: RE: Sanity and Insanity, cont. Hello again girls and boys--- I received several mail messages about my little missive (or rant, as it was described; at least they said "great rant") already, most about the trub issue. Currently I immersion coil cool my wort in the boiler, and then filter it with a new nylon mesh filter funnel. This is a nifty new item from the local HB store, consisting of a large plastic funnel with a separate nylon mesh filter that fits snugly into it (easily cleaned). I have to filter in stages, removing the hops and trub as the filter clogs, but compared to my old method of running the beer through the coils it's much faster. I used to filter the trub with a funnel stuck in the end of the hose connected to the coils covered with cheesecloth. The pollen grains from the hops clogged the cheesecloth, slowing the rate but also yielding a nearly complete filtration. Slow. At any rate, I don't have much problem with buildup of the yeast cake, and it's so firmly packed that the buildup that occurs doesn't take up much space. The yeast does stay in suspension for about 2 weeks after suspending the old cake in new wort, but after 4-8 weeks most stuff settles. I also chill my freshly kegged brew a bit, and since I don't cut off my uptake tube at all (it runs right to the bottom of the keg) I get the settled stuff to come out in the first pint. After the first pint is drawn the rest is crystal clear (sometimes two pints over a few days are required to clear all the settled yeast). I get my grain from Briess Malting near Madison, and we buy in lots of over 1000 lbs. Before shipping we get 2-row American for 19 cents/lb, after shipping about 23 cents. I highly recommend their 90 levibond crystal. Here's a quick recipe: crush: 16 lbs. 2-row brewer's malt 2 lbs 40 l crystal malt 2 lbs 90 l crystal malt bring 5+ gallons water to 180 degrees, pour into 40 qt. or larger cooler chest, stir in crushed malt. Check temperature, should be near 155 degrees. Mash stirring every 15 minutes for 2 hours. Sparge with 170+ degree water to yield 12 gallons. Boil for 1 hour, adding 2 oz Northern Brewer leaf hops (Freshops) at 30 minutes 3 oz Hallertauer leaf hops (Freshops) after turning off heat Cover and let sit 5 minutes. Cool and pipe onto the yeast cake from a past batch (see HB Digest #600). SG: who cares? It's strong. Ferment at least 2 months at <65 degrees. Drink. I'd like to describe my 10 gallon mashing setup in a later article---so watch out. Thanks for the comments, it makes me feel like I might know something after all. Love and frothy heads Father Barleywine (Richard Ransom rransom at aclcb.purdue.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 91 19:39 CDT From: MC2331S at ACAD.DRAKE.EDU Subject: Beer in the Quad Cities Since Iowa has fairly brain-damaged laws concering beer availibility,my partner and I have decided to drive to the Quad Cities (probably Rock Island) totry to enlarge the beer varaity at his next party. Does anybody know of a good beer source in the Rock Island/Moline IL area? Thanks Mark Castleman (the now internationally famous) Big Dog Brewing Cooperative Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #601, 03/21/91 ************************************* -------
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