HOMEBREW Digest #617 Wed 17 April 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  sm/smtp&                                                     (DAVIDSOND)
  Root Beer (flowers)
  Jackson Book? (Rob)
  Re: Florida Brewpubs (a.e.mossberg)
  St. Sixtus Abbey (Fritz Keinert)
  Jim's Homebrew; Cleaning Copper (BAUGHMANKR)
  copper laundry tubs  (Carl West x4449)
  Cleaning Wort Chiller, Cleaning Copper (hersh)
  Pub/Brewpub data (JRM  at  214/575-6774)
  pure strain of weizen beer yeast (Marty Albini)
  Re: Lab chemicals as additives (John Polstra)
  HBD 154, where are you? ("DRCV06::GRAHAM")
  Spokane WA (kevin vang)
  Foam (C.R. Saikley)
  All-grain troubles (Crawford.Wbst129)
  Supply shops near 'Frisco (Chuck Coronella)
  All-Grain Barley Wine (C.R. Saikley)
  SAM ADAMS (Brian Smithey)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #616 (April 16, 1991) (Raymond Degennaro)
  Brewcraft injector (Bill Crick)

Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com [Please do not send me requests for back issues] Archives are available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 15 Apr 91 22:57 +0000 From: DAVIDSOND%AC%CSC at CSC.ISU.EDU Subject: sm/smtp& We've just started two batches of mead/metheglin: One is 5 Lb. dark honey to 2 gal water & 1 quart raspberries (et. spicetera) The other is 12 Lb. light honey to 5 gal water (ibid.) FIZZ TRICKS for MEAD: The batches are our first attempt at mead, so we're unfamiliar with how Montrachet yeast and honey coexist/mingle. Since we're interested in the drinks having some fizz/carbonation when opened, I would appreciate help or tips on handling it. Specifically, Cheri Feinstein (some months ago) said that one seals at a late stage in fermenting (how late?!) then 'kills' the yeast with everclear or vodka and bottles it. Since my experience has been that pouring carbonated drinks (or siphoning them) tends to agitate enough to let a hefty share of the CO2 out... and since the yeast is hopefully (regrettably) quite dead upon arrival in his/her/its new glass house (and thus unable to make life fizzy for me)... I suspect this leaves a very mild effervescence, no? Other postings seem to suggest one consults Specific Gravity ratings, or other mystic help at 'guessing' the correct time to bottle. Since we'd prefer to use caps, and since this is a first experiment with mead, complete with a very unique fermentation cycle compared to any of our limited experiences... can someone either repost good estimated SG's for a recipe of 12lb. honey to five gallons water (estimated)... or Jeanne Dixon's toll-free number. Well, that also mentioned the other option I've been handed: corks. That way seems to allow options other than bottle-grenades... but we aren't equipped with corker, corks, or any clue for that approach. RACKING MEAD for clarity/speed/etc. Also, regarding racking: Monday (Taxday) is day two, and I'm left with an impression that every few days I should be racking into clean containters. This is for (what?) clarity? taste? speed to maturation? SPEED MEADing Finally, if I want to 'nudge' this toward an early maturation, someone said that strangling the yeast early with grain alcohol added will help. Right? Wrong? which? Oh-oh, the sysop's kicking me off! Please, if any responses are 'time sensitive', post to me directly!!! The newsletter seems to take two days delivery here sometimes. - ---Darryl Davidson DavidsonD at CSC.ISU.EDU ID is just a state of mind... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 08:35:52 -0400 From: flowers at osf.org Subject: Root Beer I just finished mixing up a batch of Root Beer (My wife doesn't drink beer, and wanted to play brewer with me.). As I was bottling it, I started to wonder, what stops the yeasti-beasties from eating all that unfermented sugar, and blowing bottles all over my kitchen. I thought that the yeast stoped working when either the sugar was gone or the alcohol reached some high amount (~14%?). I just gotta believe that my brew supply store wouldn't sell me a home bomb making kit. Ken Flowers Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 06:49:32 CST From: Rob <C08926RC at WUVMD.Wustl.Edu> Subject: Jackson Book? In the last digest I saw reference to a book by Jackson. From the post it appears that this is an directory of beers or something. Could someone give me more info on this book, such as the title, etc? Thanks! |==================================================================| | Rob Caton | | Disclaimer: | | Programmer/Analyst | "I live with danger | What? | | Washington University | everyday, J. R., | Me worry? | |-------------------------| but occasionally I |-----------------| | C08926RC at WUVMD | leave her and go hunting."--GABI | |==================================================================| Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 13:29:55 GMT From: aem at mthvax.cs.miami.edu (a.e.mossberg) Subject: Re: Florida Brewpubs In digest <1991Apr16.070406.26471 at mthvax.cs.miami.edu> CR writes: [lists brewpubs] >Miami - Florida Brewing Co. Miami has two brewpubs - Zum Alten Fritz, in downtown Miami near the Omni, and another whose name I cannot remember, in Ft. Lauderdale right on New River. There is nothing in the phone book listed for "Florida Brewing Co." aem - -- aem at mthvax.cs.miami.edu ....................................................... Out of life comes death and out of death life, out of the young the old, and out of the old the young, out of waking sleep and out of sleep waking, the stream of creation and dissolution never stops. - Heraclitus Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 09:15:06 CDT From: Fritz Keinert <keinert at iastate.edu> Subject: St. Sixtus Abbey In homebrew digest #615, Craig Flowers ( at flowers at csrd.uiuc.edu) writes > For the truly curious, the side of the cap reads: ST. SIXTUSABDIJ V.Z.W. > B-8983 Vleteren. I don't know if Vleteren is town but that's what I would > guess. I don't understand the ABDIJ connected to St. Sixtus nor whether > B-8983 is in any way significant. The word "abdij" is Flemish for "abbey". The "8983" is the zip code. It is customary in Europe to precede the zip code by the country code, so you don't have to write the name of the country on the envelope. "B" is Belgium, obviously. Vleteren must indeed be the town, then. I don't know what the abbreviation "V.Z.W." stands for. Fritz Keinert phone: (515) 294-5128 Department of Mathematics fax: (515) 294-5454 Iowa State University e-mail: keinert at iastate.edu Ames, IA 50011 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1991 11:03 EST From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: Jim's Homebrew; Cleaning Copper RE: Jim's Homebrew. Tom sold Jim's Homebrew to Bob Ketcham a couple of months ago. While I hated to see Tom leave, Bob seems like a helluva nice guy and I would recommend his services to everyone. Address: Jim's Homebrew Supply North 2613 Division Spokane, WA 99207 (509) 328-4850 RE: Cleaning copper I'm pretty sure B-Brite does the trick for cleaning copper. Try filling the copper kettle with water, dump in some B-Brite, and boil it. Cheers ya'll, Kinney Baughman Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 11:20:58 EDT From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West x4449) Subject: copper laundry tubs Bill Crick mentions a > copper "boiler" I have in the basement that would span two burners, sounds like a laundry tub to me. I would have a care and check just how this tub is constructed, I would not be surprised to find that the seams are soldered with a lead solder which would be fine for doing laundry, but appreciably less than terrific for making acidic food or drink. If the seams are rolled instead of soldered and show no grey metal, you may well have something useful there. Good Luck, Carl Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 12:12:44 EDT From: hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu Subject: Cleaning Wort Chiller, Cleaning Copper >If you consider building a wort chiller, be careful about the oils inside your copper tubing. Not a problem for immersion chillers since the wort only touches the outside. Good point for those making counterflow chillers to consider though. You've likely saved some poor soul from ruining a btach Mike :-)!! Russ G says >For the next few months, my brew-room will naturally stay at 60 degF, a little cold for an ale, Not really, some yeast strains still work nicely at this temp. I believe Whitbread Ale will, I'm sure at least one of the wyeasts should also, consult your supplier for more info. > Claening copper Bill try B-Brite, I use this on the outside of my Copper Chiller and it works well. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 11:48:11 -0500 From: jmellby at skvax1.csc.ti.com (JRM at 214/575-6774) Subject: Pub/Brewpub data I am seeing increased traffic with mesagesssages like "where are pubs in XXX". From all they replyas there are a lot of us who keep notes on good pubs around the country. My own problem is that during the day (which is usually when I see these messages) I can't take time waway from work to search my pub database and construct a reply. So what I want to do is create a more formal database that I can queyrry asking things like what pubs are in JSan Jose what microbrewerys are in San Francisoco or in the 808 area code what lbeer stores are near Tulsa and so on. I already have a large amount of semi-formatted data (around a 100K annotated list of pubs including notes and comments from the net). Has anyone else already got such a probgram? Would anyone else be willing to contribute their list of pubs for such an effort? I this was successful (assuming no one else already has it) I would be happy to send it one to interested people. jmellby at iluvatar.dseg.ti.com jmellby at skvax1.ti.com John R. Mellby Texas Instruments (<knows nothing of this> (214)157-517-5370 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 10:52:24 PDT From: Marty Albini <martya at sdd.hp.com> Subject: pure strain of weizen beer yeast I'm looking for a source for weizen yeast (saccarimides delbruckii, I think) in pure form. Please don't tell me about Wyeast 3056; it's got another strain mixed in with it. I want the straight stuff. If somebody's got addresses/phone numbers for Wyeast and/or MeV, I'd appreciate seeing that too. - -- ____________________________________________Marty Albini___________ "Thank god for long-necked bottles, the angel's remedy."--Tom Petty phone : (619) 592-4177 UUCP : {hplabs|nosc|hpfcla|ucsd}!hp-sdd!martya Internet : martya at sdd.hp.com US mail : Hewlett-Packard Co., 16399 W. Bernardo Drive, San Diego CA 92127-1899 USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 10:39:09 PDT From: polstra!jdp at uunet.UU.NET (John Polstra) Subject: Re: Lab chemicals as additives In HBD #615, "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> asks: > Can I assume that a reagent grade chemical will be safe to use in my > beer, (providing that the chemical is not poisonous in the first > place). > > How about the same question for what they call "lab grade"? Only food grade chemicals should be used in brewing. Such chemicals will be marked "USP" or "FCC". I don't know what your supplier means by "reagent" or "lab" grade; USP and FCC chemicals have to meet well-defined standards of purity. A friend in the chemical supply industry tells me that one DOESN'T want to take chances with non-food grade additives. They can and often do contain dangerous levels of lead, arsenic, cadmium, etc. John Polstra polstra!jdp at uunet.uu.net Polstra & Co., Inc. ...!uunet!polstra!jdp Seattle, Washington USA (206) 932-6482 "Self-knowledge is always bad news." -- John Barth Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Apr 91 14:52:00 EDT From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> Subject: HBD 154, where are you? Well, I'm up to May of 1989 in reading all of the Homebrew archives. Whew! I'm learning a lot. I should get college credit for some of this stuff. Anyway, digest number 154 is missing from the May 1989 archive file. If someone has number 154, could they send it to me. I know I'm requesting these on a regular basis, but I do want to read all the material I can get hold of. Thanks kindly in advance, Dan Graham, WA6CNN Beer made with the Derry air, (Derry, New Hampshire) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 14:05:12 CDT From: kevin vang <MN033302 at VM1.NoDak.EDU> Subject: Spokane WA In HBD 616 John E Lenz rises to the defense of the Eastern Washington region. I would like to add that Spokane is also the home of the Fort Spokane Brewing Company. I was there last summer and I was very impressed. I forget the exact address, but it is located right in the downtown area. When I was there they had four of their own beers on tap, and Guinness and a few others. I was in a hurry (I had to meet someone at the train station) so I only sampled one. If I remember right, it was called "Red Alt" and I thought it was very good, although it was served too cold in my opinion. I can't remember what the other choices on the menu, but they looked intriguing and I regretted not having more time. (The selections were written on a chalkboard, so I assume they vary). The atmosphere was great. Also, in Couer d'Alene, Idaho (about 20-30 E of Spokane) there is the CdA Brewing Company, also known as TJ Fischer's Brewpub. As of last summer, they were brewing Centennial Pale Ale (I wasn't that impressed, but it won a gold medal at the Great American Beer Festival), Summer Weizen Light (which has a wonderful bready wheat flavor and aroma -- the only beer I've found which my wife will drink), and a bock (I forget the name, but I liked it) and a stout, which I haven't tried yet. The beer is available at several area restaurants and in bottles at local stores. The owner and staff are very friendly and will give tours if you call in advance. I'm headed out that way again this summer, and I would appreciate hearing if there is anything else in the area that a beer hunter should know about. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 12:23:03 PDT From: grumpy!cr at uunet.UU.NET (C.R. Saikley) Subject: Foam From: rob at maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca (Rob McDonald) <A recent batch of stout had a F.G. of 1.020, a bit higher than usual for <this recipe. It foamed like mad (a problem I haven't had since you all <straightened me out on pressure and opening the tap fully). Has anybody <seen a correlation between F.G. and foaming with kegged brew? There is a correlation between FG and foaming in bottles, and may be in kegs depending on your carbonation method. The high FG may indicate that the yeast isn't really finished yet. The beer then goes into its package and finishes. If you're priming the green beer with sugar, malt extract, wort or whatever, then there is more sugar present than the priming addition would indicate. Hence more carbonation and foam. If, on the other hand, you are artificially carbonating, timing may be the key. One possible scenario goes like this. 1. Transfer to keg and seal 2. Pressurize beer to x psi 3. Wait n days 4. Tap In step 2, the keg is pressurized to the level required to achieve the desired carbonation. During step 3, the beer continues to ferment, thereby increasing the pressure in the keg, and carbonation in the beer. Again, it all depends on the timing. I've had problems with high FG's and over-carbonated beer. It also seemed to correlate with those fermentations that dragged on endlessly. I've been working on a system that should alleviate this and other problems that have plagued me. I'll follow up with the details after it comes together. Cheers, CR Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1991 13:18:28 PDT From: Crawford.Wbst129 at xerox.com Subject: All-grain troubles I have been attempting all-grain brewing and have run into a problem. In three attempts I have ended up with extremely husky tasting brew. It is so bad that the beer is undrinkable. Here is a quick rundown of my process: - I use pre-crushed, two row english pale malt from Great Fermentations. - Infusion mash in a coleman cooler with the slotted copper pipe drain in the bottom - Pre-heater water (about 170 deg) is added to the grain at a ratio of 1 quart/1 lb of grain, in a 5 gal kettle. - Heat is added (via a gas stove) until the target temp. is reached (about 152 deg). - PH is at 5.5 - This is then transfered to the pre-heated coleman cooler until conversion is complete. - The drain is opened for the sparge. Sparge water is 165 deg at PH 5.5. - Sparge is terminated before the PH of the runoff reaches PH of 6.0. I believe my problem is directly heating a mash that is too thick. What grain/water ratio do you all-grain pros use? Do you boost temp only by adding heated water? Can you boost the temp. from saccrification temp. to mash-out temp (or protein rest to saccrification) by just adding hot water? Or is mash-out at 165 really neccessary? Any help would be appreciated before I screw up another attempt. Please hurry, I might start worrying... Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 14:29 MST From: Chuck Coronella <CORONELLRJDS at CHE.UTAH.EDU> Subject: Supply shops near 'Frisco Californians: A friend of mine (and former HBD subscriber) lives in San Francisco, and is looking for local homebrew-supply shops. Please send me replies directly. (coronellrjds at che.utah.edu) Thanks, Chuck Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 13:02:28 PDT From: grumpy!cr at uunet.UU.NET (C.R. Saikley) Subject: All-Grain Barley Wine With the recent talk of all-grain barley wines, I thought I'd put in my two cents...... A friend of mine, who is a professional brewer, made a batch of barley wine at home last month. Having a penchant for excess, and access to grain at $0.23/pound, he used *70* pounds of grain, mostly pale malt. The mash was as stiff as he could get it (don't know the specifics), and no water was added after mashing in - no mash out, no sparge, no nothin. After draining the mash tun and boiling, he ended up with 7 gallons of wort at SG 1.120!!! (Don't try this at home kids! ;-} It will be quite a while before we know the final results. Until then, we can only salivate. CR Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 14:18:58 PDT From: smithey at esosun.css.gov (Brian Smithey) Subject: SAM ADAMS On Fri, 12 Apr 1991 11:06:33 PDT, John_Zettler.ADFMcLean_CSD at xerox.com said: > re: Varieties of Sam Adams (TSAMSEL 8/12) > I have found five varieties of Sam Adams at my local Safeway in the DC area > (Fairfax, Virginia). However, only the Original and Lightship are continuously > stocked. These five are: > - Original > - Lightship (a Light Beer - 1/3 less flavor than regular) > - Boston Ale > - Winter Lager > - Double Bock I first had SA's Boston Ale when in Boston a little over a year ago. It was available only on tap, I ran across it in a Boston restaurant. Where else has the bottled Ale been seen? The Lightship recently showed up at my local (San Diego) Liquor Barn, but I'd gladly trade it for the ale ... has anybody seen it on the West Coast yet? Brian - -- Brian Smithey / SAIC, Geophysics Division / San Diego CA uucp: uunet!seismo!esosun!smithey Internet: smithey at esosun.css.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 91 15:54:42 PDT From: degennar%bmsr9.usc.edu at usc.edu (Raymond Degennaro) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #616 (April 16, 1991) please remove me from the list Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1991 18:27:52 -0400 From: hplabs!bnr-vpa!bnr-rsc!crick (Bill Crick) Subject: Brewcraft injector I have been using a brewcraft injector for years. First on a Safron Superkeg, and now on a Rotokeg. This injector fits onto the keg, and server to add CO2 to the keg to keep the pressure up in the keg by replacing the volume of the beer removed with pressurized CO2. The source of CO2 is the little soad siphon cartridges that are about $0.50 ea. My five gallon keg uses up about 2 per batch. There are several cartridge injectors availble for plastic kegs. Most of them dump the whole cartridge in at once. If there is not enough room in the keg to hold all of the CO2 without exceeding the pressure relief valve pressure, the excess CO2 is wasted. The brewcraft injector contains a pressure regulator, that only fills the keg to a certain pressure, and shuts off. From there on, when you draw off beer, and reduce the pressure, it adds enough gas to restore the pressure. This gives more even carbonation through the life of the batch, and saves on the cartridges. The regulator works on the same principle as the regulators used with regular draft setups, using a spring, a diaphram and a valve to add the gas THe Brecraft regulator is a bit more Mickey mouse, and doesn't maintain teh pressuere as evenly, due to stiction in the piston that is the diaphram. Overall, it works quite well. NOTE: when I go tmy injector, the little clear plactic piston ( a disk about one inch in diameter) was cracked! When I returned it, the sotre had a whole box of cracked ones, and we had to sort through a box of new ones to find a good one. It eventually cracked, and a friend made me one from aluminum which has worked fine since. Several weeks ago I looked at Brewcraft injector in a store, and the piston was a green plastic that seemed more resiliant, so they may have solved the problem, but it may be worthasking the store if they get many back?? The original piston was hard, brittle, clear plastic. The injector will also work as a relief valve. It the pressure gets high enough, the piston gets pushed far eough that gas will escape past it. NOte that the pressure it relieves at is fairly high, and is higher than the relief valve that was in the lid of my superkeg. I have been using the injector as my relief valve on teh Rotokeg, with no problems for two years now, and I routinely add too much priming sugar so the extra CO2 gets vented, and purges some of the air out of the keg. Alternatives are: Injector that adds whole cartridge; Refillable aerosol cans of CO2 that you use to "give the keg a shot by hand when needed"; CO2 tanks and regulators setup; Not filling the keg as much (I bottle 24 bottles from a 5 gallon batch and put the rest in my 5 gallon keg), with lots of priming sugar (2 cups/5 gallons: YOU NEED A PRESSURE REFIEF VALVE!!) the extra gas in the large head space will dispense most or all of the beer without adding any gas. Bill Crick Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #617, 04/17/91 ************************************* -------
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