HOMEBREW Digest #681 Wed 17 July 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  counterflow wort chillers (John Freeman)
  RE: Homebrew Digest #680 (July 16, 1991)  (Greg Roody - dtn 237-7122)
  Sparging, What's best/easiest? ("Justin A. Aborn")
  Cool refinement of John Polstra's aspirator (larryba)
  How many Homebrewers? (BREIN)
  3 Gallon Kegs (bob)
  boulder brewpubs (Lynn Zentner)
  Proteins vs. Dextrins and Re: Peristaltic pumps (Ken Giles)
  Request: General info on wheat beers (Subbakrishna Shankar)
  MeV,American Brewmaster and Thanks ("N. Zentena")
  Pump for Immersion Coolers (Tom Dimock)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #680 (July 16, 1991) (Michelle H. Teng)
  Mead contamination and Brewing software (Darryl Okahata)
  Another Lambic Update (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Corona Mills (Charles Anderson)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 16 Jul 91 8:59:36 CDT From: jlf at poplar.cray.com (John Freeman) Subject: counterflow wort chillers > > Three of us (from the Cornell contingent) have put together a couple of > counter-flow wort chillers, using 3/8" copper tubing and 3/4" garden hose. > Thanks to this Digest, we know how to clean the inside of the tubing... > extended discussion on this point way back in March/April were most helpful. > What we *don't* know is how to get the near-boiling wort into the tubing...... > > One wants to avoid oxidizing the boiling wort, so we believe that dumping it > into a large, spigoted container would probably not be the best plan. We are > a bit hesitant to drill holes in our stainless steel brewpots (but may end up > doing so yet). And siphoning a boiling liquid is probably unreasonable. > > So, how do YOU effect this transfer? And how do you achieve hop removal? > I made a spigoted container out of a 5 gallon bucket and a spigot using electrical conduit nuts to hold the spigot to the bucket (the guy at the hardware store thought of this, not me). Anyway, the wort chiller had a threaded brass fitting which fit the threads on the spigot. I didn't worry about oxidizing boiling wort - I'd never even heard of it then, I just dumped it into the bucket and cooled it. I controlled the chiller by the spigot, the slower the flow, the more the cooling. I abandoned the counterflow wort chiller a few years ago in favor of an immersion chiller. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 91 07:17:36 PDT From: Greg Roody - dtn 237-7122 <roody at necsc.enet.dec.com> Subject: RE: Homebrew Digest #680 (July 16, 1991) re: Subject: Peristaltic pumps These pumps don't need to be expensive, except when a) you need to maintain sterile conditions (as in using it for blood) or extremely precise flow rates. Since neither of these really apply to wort, all you really need is a length of durable tubing and some mechanism to routinely squeeze it along the direction of flow. This is usually done by bending the tubing into a horseshoe shape in a chase and then using a rotary squeezer (sorry for the technical terms here 8^).) to push the lquid through. Picture a clock face with tubing wrapped around it from 9 oclock till three oclock. The sweep hand would act as the squeegie, contacting the tube at 9 and pushing a volume of liquid along until 3, then repeating when it reaches 9 again. This is a poor description, but look at the pictures in the catalogue and you will get the idea. Should be easy engh to make. (well, about as easy as an all grain recipe anyway 8^)>). /greg Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 91 10:27:08 EDT From: "Justin A. Aborn" <jaborn at BBN.COM> Subject: Sparging, What's best/easiest? I recently transitioned to all grain brewing, and I'm very glad I did. The beer is cheaper, smoother, more delicious and special tasting. My all grain clarity is not as good as my extract brews though. I want to try to improve the filtering characteristics of my sparging technology, plus sparging is a pain in the butt and I think it could be easier. What I currently do is put a sparge bag inside a plastic bucket equipped with a spigot at the bottom. I run off some wort into a sauce-pan and carefully pour it back on top of the grain; recirculating for as long as I can stand it. I then run it all off into the boil pot, and do the same thing over again using new sparge water. During the recirculations the wort gets progressively clearer, but I have never gotten it to be "bright and clear," as Miller suggests is possible. Sparging takes a long time. My favorite fantasy filtering answer is to put a peristaltic pump in the loop that would constantly, gently, and exhaustively recirculate while I am carefully evaluating the results of last month's brewing. I have done a little looking for a pump, but I have had the same results as Dan Graham. They're too expensive from the sources I found. I suppose one could also add another filter to the process. I ran some wort through a coffee filter, and sure enough, it comes out bright and clear. The filter clogs quickly however. Perhaps some mondo coffee filter might be able to do a whole batch without clogging to a dead stop, but it seems messy and unlikely. Does anyone have any sparging advice or anecdotes that might help negate the pump? Does anyone know of a used medical equipment warehouse? Justin Brewer and Patriot Return to table of contents
Date: Tue Jul 16 07:44:35 1991 From: larryba at microsoft.com Subject: Cool refinement of John Polstra's aspirator In HBD #676, John Polstra wrote: |Take a 1-foot length of flexible tubing. Make a small hole (maybe a |sixteenth or an eighth of an inch in diameter) in the wall of the |tubing, a couple of inches from one end. (An electric drill at low |speed works fine for this.) Attach the end with the hole in it to the |output side of your in-line wort chiller. Put the other end of the |tubing into your destination vessel and siphon away. A fine stream of |bubbles will be sucked into the tube through the hole and your wort |will end up nice and foamy in the fermenter. Simple, reliable, works |great. Last weekend, I brewed a stout. I couldn't remember the details of John's article, just the fact he had holes in the racking tube somewhere. So I made mine from a 5" chunk of copper pipe left over from my chiller and racking tube. I drilled four 1/16" holes about 1" from one end. I started the siphon and stuffed the short end into my out tube. It was amazing how well it worked! The beer came out the far end just like the water from the kitchen faucet. I thought I wouldn't be able to get all 5.5 gals of wort into my 7.5 gal carboy because there was so much foam! The copper pipe is great since I didn't end up permanently modifying one of my racking hoses. I repitched 1 cup of whitbread from the previous weeks brew and I had glugging start within two hours. Four hours later I had a two inch head of foam. Great stuff! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1991 8:22:20 PDT From: BREIN at dsfvax.jpl.nasa.gov Subject: How many Homebrewers? hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu writes: >Well the AHA estimates I've seen say there are over 1 millions homebrewers >(still only 1/250 = .4% of US population). I don't know that I believe it, >and if I do then that means that at ~10,000 members the AHA has only >1% of all homebrewers joining, a pretty poor rate, though homebrewers are >a notoriously independent lot. One million is a suspiciously round number. Somebody must have done a survey. Does anyone know of a source of demographic and marketing data on the homebrewing community? Barry Rein BREIN at gpvax.jpl.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue Jul 16 11:37:06 1991 From: semantic!bob at uunet.UU.NET Subject: 3 Gallon Kegs Hi, I just checked into the 3 gallon kegs advertised in the Summer 1991 flyer from Foxx. They are Used, Ball lock tanks. Both Denver and Kansas City are out of stock, but Kansas expects an order in about a week, and Kansas City supplies Denver. Price is $28.66 each. No discounts for large orders. One might get a savings on the shipping cost of large orders. (?) Kansas City: 800-821-2254. Denver: 800-425-2484. Cheers, -- Bob Gorman Jake had a dream. It was his, -- -- bob at rsi.com the only real one he'd ever had, -- -- uunet!semantic!bob and he clung to it. ... -- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 91 11:35:35 -0500 From: zentnerl at ecn.purdue.edu (Lynn Zentner) Subject: boulder brewpubs With regard to the Walnut Brewery in Boulder...... I was in Boulder last month for a conference, and needing to unwind a bit after giving my paper, I headed toward the Pearl Street Mall. In Boulder, there is a free trolley that makes a loop past several hotels, some dorms, and around the Pearl Street Mall. It let me off right in front of the Walnut Brewery where I went in for lunch. They have a beautiful atmosphere and the grilled chicken sandwich I had was delicious. I tried their sample set of six beers (about 4 oz. each) and enjoyed all of them. They had just premiered their Jazzberry Ale (a wheat-type beer with some raspberries included in the recipe) and really wanted to try one, but they were out. The hostess was quite charming, and stopped by my booth several times to ask what I thought of the beers and to tease me about getting sloshed by my lonesome. The staff was very efficient and courteous. Prices were quite reasonable. I would highly recommend a visit. Just wanted to post an alternate opinion to the guy from a couple days ago that said he wasn't too impressed. Could be that the place has changed since he was there, or maybe the dirth of neat places to eat/drink around Lafayette just makes me easily impressed! Still, my palate does get around, and while none of the beers at Walnut were "jump up and down" spectacular, I thought they were all well done. Not much to actually post about homebrew.....this Indiana heat has pretty much stopped all brewing activity at our house. And our stash of homebrew is getting dangerously low!!! Come on, Autumn! Lynn Zentner Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Jul 91 08:54:10 EDT (Tue) From: slammer!brad at emory.mathcs.emory.edu (Brad Isley) Please unsubscribe me. Please subscribe my brother - gatech!bagend!jan. Thanx Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 91 09:22:30 PDT From: keng at ic.MENTORG.COM (Ken Giles) Subject: Proteins vs. Dextrins and Re: Peristaltic pumps I'm not yet ready to open the debate on whether body comes from proteins or from dextrins, but would like to get my facts straight. I remember that someone said that Miller had cited Jean de Clerk? (sp?) I tried to find the citation in TCHoHB and could only come up with the statement without the reference. Could someone possibly email me the page number of the citation? In HBD #680 graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil says: > Does anyone know of a inexpensive peristaltic pump, or [are] those terms > mutually exclusive? Since "inexpensive" is relative, I'll just throw this in. I have one of those electric painting machines which uses a peristaltic pump to push the paint to the roller. I think it was $75 new. It uses a fairly large hose, maybe 3/4 inch OD. I can't say whether it's suitable, but if you found one sufficiently cheap at a garage sale, maybe it would be worth a try. kg. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 91 13:55:54 -0400 From: sxs32 at po.CWRU.Edu (Subbakrishna Shankar) Subject: Request: General info on wheat beers Now that summer is in full swing I've seen a number of specialty wheat beers (such as Sam Adams' Wheat Beer) and made one of my own (w/ Northwestern's Wiezen malt extract). I'm uncertain, though, of the proper nomenclature and origin of the various styles. Perhaps someone can answer these questions for me: 1) Are all wheat beers fermented w/ an ale yeast (e.g. Wyeast's Wiezenbier Liquid Ale #3056), or is there a lager style as well? 2) What are the differences among Wiesse, Wiezen, and plain old Wheat beers? I've heard of "Berliner Wiesse" which is supposedly drunk w/ fruit syrup added. Is the beer different or just the style of drinking it? 3) I bought some Hefe-Wiezen beers from Germany recently to test my own concoction against. The "Hefe", I was told, indicated the presence of a yeast pack from bottle conditioning. Both were delicious, though not quite as satisfying as my homebrew. Is it true that a different yeast strain is added at bottling time because the fermenting yeast flocculate poorly? Obviously, this would make culturing the fermenting yeast from the bottle impossible. 4) Should I go ahead and drink my wheat beer with a twist of lemon, risking being mistaken for Yuppie scum sucking on a Corona? For answers to these questions my thanks in advance. - -- Subba Shankar E-mail: sxs32 at po.cwru.edu (Internet) U.S. Snail: Dept. of Neurosciences Voice: (216)368-2195 Case Western Reserve U. FAX: (216)368-4650 Cleveland, OH 44106 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1991 18:26:01 -0400 From: "N. Zentena" <zen at utcs.utoronto.ca> Subject: MeV,American Brewmaster and Thanks Hi, I called around here today and came up with the following on MeV. They supposedly moved 2-3 months ago. Since then they seem to have gone off the end of the world. My local retailer got a shipment about 1.5 months ago. But right now there phone number has been disconnected. Supposedly when they moved they intended to get back into bussiness but has of yet nothing. Having said the above this supposedly isn't the first time MeV has "disappeared" for a period of time so they may be back. On American Brewmaster EVERYBODY was very happy with them. They are supposedly good people to deal with. I've called about a catalog and hopefully will be ordering a couple of things. I would also like to thank everybody who sent me infomation. I've tried to get replies to everyone but some of the messages bounced. So thanks to everyone. Nick Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 91 20:40:47 EDT From: Tom Dimock <RGG at CORNELLC.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: Pump for Immersion Coolers I just stumbled across a fairly cheap pump that looks like just what the doctor ordered for recirculating cold water through an immersion heater (Ref. thread of some months ago on immersion heaters and water conservation). My Grainger catalog (not quite current, but close) lists their stock numbers 2P370, 1P618 and 1P928 as coolant pumps - "For evaporative coolers, coolants, laboratories,decorative fountains etc.". They look like miniature versions of your standard basement sump pumps, and pump 4-6 gallons per minute. The first two are plastic, the third is all brass. The best thing are the prices - $25.02, $25.17, or $32.78 for the brass one. Grainger's are a ubiquitous industrial supply place with a couple of hundred outlets nationwide, plus many contractors supply stores can order from them. Check your Yellow Pages. I almost got excited about their peristaltic pump for $126, until I noticed it's maximum flow of 60 gallons per DAY... Sigh... ==> Tom Dimock <== RGG at cornellc.cit.cornell.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 91 20:56:57 PDT From: michelle at cobalt.cco.caltech.edu (Michelle H. Teng) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #680 (July 16, 1991) PLEASE STOP SENDING ME ANY MORE OF YOUR E-MAIL. THANKS A LOT. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 91 21:15:32 PDT From: Darryl Okahata <darrylo at hpnmxx.sr.hp.com> Subject: Mead contamination and Brewing software [ There are two wildly different topics in this message. ] I have a fruit/ginger mead that's been aging for a couple of weeks in a 5-gal. carboy, and I've noticed that a yellow ring seems to be developing at the surface. It always seems to have been there (from the end of fermentation), but it seems to be getting thicker. I asked a question about this on CI$, and it's been suggested that I have a wild yeast contamination. Assuming that this is true, can I make a sparking mead even if there is a wild yeast contamination, or should I dump in some campden tablets? I was hoping to make a sparking mead, but I'll settle for a sulfite mead. ;-) Going on to another topic ... In the 1990 special issue of Zymurgy, Jackie Rager presented some equations for calculating IBUs, given weight, alpha %, time, volume, etc.. If anyone's interested, I've programmed the HP 48SX calculator with these equations, and you can now calculate any one of the following five parameters, given any four of them: IBUs % alpha weight boiling time boiling volume I've also added a couple of "enhancements": * The hop utilization table is entered as a matrix (meaning that you can edit and change it). It's also interpolated, and not used as a simple staircase table (the way that it's used in the article). This also means that the answers from this program will not be exactly the same as the ones in the article, because of the interpolation. * You can also calculate IBUs from AAUs, or vice-versa. I added a hack assuming AAU = <% alpha> * <weight>, and boiling time == 1 hour. While the program is not fast (it can take 15-30 seconds to solve for an answer), it provides for: * "Computing on the go". You can carry the calculator to a friend's house, to the local brewing supply store, etc., and you don't have to remember the equations. * Automatic unit conversion. You can enter weight in ounces, grams, pounds, slugs, etc.. You can enter time in seconds, minutes, hours, days, years, etc. (;-). You can enter volume in gallons, liters, teaspoons, etc.. The answers will still come out right. If anyone wants a copy of the program, send email (it uses up about 1700 bytes). -- Darryl Okahata Internet: darrylo at sr.hp.com DISCLAIMER: this message is the author's personal opinion and does not constitute the support, opinion or policy of Hewlett-Packard or of the little green men that have been following him all day. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 91 15:49:20 PDT From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at PacBell.COM> Subject: Another Lambic Update In HOMEBREW Digest #671, my unindicted co-conspirator Mike Sharp said: > I heard from Martin Lodhal that some of you have been wondering about the > lambic experiments. So here goes... Yep. I was asked to report just as I was edging toward the door, so I passed the buck to Mike, who ably reported on his own batches, then: > Martin's batch -- > ummm, I'm not sure what he did... probably something simmilar. > He'll have to tell you when he gets back from vaccation. I'm ba-a-a-ack! And here's my report. Toward the end of April, I made up a batch using this recipe: Ingredients - 7 lbs 2-row Pale Malted Barley 3.5 lbs brewers' flaked wheat 0.5 lb crystal malt 1 oz equal parts Chinook, Willamette, and Northern Brewer leaf hops, baked 1 hour at 300F and left 3 days in the open air Wyeast 1007 (German Ale) yeast Pediococcus damnosus culture Brettanomyces bruxellensis culture A teaspoon of yeast nutrient 0.75 cup dextrose (priming) Process - Mash water: 14 quarts at 130F, w/ 1 tsp gypsum Mash-in: 5 minutes Protein rest: 20 minutes at 140F Conversion: 60 minutes at 158-155F Mash-out: 10 minutes at 170F Sparge: 5 gallons at 170F rising to 190F, pH 5.7 Boil: 2 hours, with hops added near the beginning The first surprise was when the iodine starch test came out negative after only 30 minutes of mashing. Quick! The mash itself looked different: I began to understand what was meant by a "turbid" mash. The sparge wasn't nearly as crystalline as I'm accustomed to seeing it, despite an excellent "set" to the filter bed, and the boil produced a hot break virtually outside the realm of credibility! Fermentation with the ale yeast took off like the proverbial shot. After 12 days I pitched the Pediococcus. I have to admit, I didn't much care for the taste of either the beer or the starter solution. It only took about 10 days (and some premature hot weather) to produce decided ropiness, so I pitched the Brettanomyces. By that time the beer was starting to taste good, with a definitely Belgian cast to it. The Brettanomyces starter solution had a tang to its aroma that reminded me of the gutters of Brussels. I don't know if I should find that encouraging ... I tasted it about a month later, and it had become very astringent, but with little apparent Brett character or lactic sourness. I'd been warned to expect this, so I'm not concerned. That was about a month ago, so I'll be tasting again soon. I followed that batch up with a very light and delicate wheat beer, brewed in the same space and using much of the same equipment. After nearly 2 months, there is no sign of infection, which I find encouraging ... = Martin A. Lodahl Pacific*Bell Systems Analyst = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1991 10:23:00 -0500 From: caa at com2serv.c2s.mn.org (Charles Anderson) Subject: Corona Mills On Fri, 12 Jul 91 10:16:52 PDT smithey at esosun.css.gov (Brian Smithey) Said: > > > Corona makes more than one grain mill. I remember a flyer that > came from William's Brewing a while back, they had a deal on > some Corona mills that they accidentally got that were the > "wrong" ones. They said that it would be ok for grinding > flour, but probably not strong enough for cracking malt. I > think the heavy-duty one common for brew duty is the Corn Mill. > > Brian > - -- > Brian Smithey / SAIC, Geophysics Division / San Diego CA Well they were selling the grain mill for the very purpose of grinding corn, I opened the box and looked at it before I bought it and it was just like every other corona grain mill I've seen homebrewers using, the only thing is that the hopper isn't as big as the ones usually sold for homebrewers, but this can be fixed with a plastic milk bottle and some duct tape. -Charlie Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #681, 07/17/91 ************************************* -------
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