HOMEBREW Digest #702 Thu 15 August 1991

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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  A First Time for Everything (Mitchell M. Evans)
  Wort Chilling (Ifor Wyn Williams)
  Some questions (Lars Nilsson)
  slimy, foul smelling infections (card)
  Re : Beer Infections (Conn Copas)
  Re : Beer Infections (Conn Copas)
  Centennial Hops (Mike Tavis)
  Colonel John (7 gallon carboys) (Chris Shenton)
  Re: Making Mead (Chris Shenton)
  RE>Homebrew Digest #701 (Au (Rad Equipment)
  help (Russ Gelinas)
  Rice Syrup Solids -- how solid? (Brian D. Moore)
  Boulder Creek Brewing/Cafe (Jueal, Stacey)
  Cider list has gone Digest (I think, hope....) (hersh)
  Brewing salts (CaCl) (ez005142)
  Re: John Bull Extract (korz)
  Re: Wild and crazy yeasts (korz)
  Priming with malt extract (korz)
  Re: gusher (korz)
  Re: Guinness-style taps (korz)
  Thomas Jefferson, Fellow Homebrewer (BAUGHMANKR)
  ice (korz)
  smorgasborge (Chad Epifanio)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 5 Aug 91 06:42:15 PST From: doc at brewing.cts.com (Mitchell M. Evans) Subject: A First Time for Everything Howdy fellow brewmaniacs! I had a first...my first BAAAAD batch. I've been brewing for about 3 1/2 years now, and was getting a little cocky, so I figure it was bound to happen. Went something like this: After about 6 days (which I thought was a short fermentation at the time), the fermentation stopped. S.G. looked pretty good...not as good as hoped, but still acceptable. Wrong Answer! I was making some mighty fine glass grenades. The time came to open the first one of the batch... Glass and beer shot 20 feet across my house, peppering the walls in my living room, dining room, and kitchen. On the way to the walls, the glass opened my thumb to the bone. Yee-hah. The mess was hor- rible, as you might imagine. I bled like a stuck pig. The moral of the story? If you're in the least bit wary about how your fermentation has progressed...be careful opening the first one of the batch! I just (very cautiously) opened one of my new batch, an oatmeal stout, last night. Perfecto. My hands were shaking. I am very glad that I open bottles out (away from my body), and not up toward my face. How can I be sure that the bottle I am about to open is not a bomb? Any hints would make opening the first bottle of a batch much less traumatic for me, from now on. Mitch =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= = ...!crash!brewing!doc US MAIL: Mitch Evans = = or 12373 Calle Albara #5 = = doc at brewing.cts.com El Cajon, CA 92019 = = = = "You wouldn't know a good time if it stripped naked, hopped on your face, = = and started wiggling!" -- C. Stanley = =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 10:16:57 BST From: Ifor Wyn Williams <ifor at computer-science.manchester.ac.uk> Subject: Wort Chilling Steve Anthony <steveo at Think.COM> wrote: > I had then thought that putting the coil of the chiller in my kitchen sink > and surrounding it with crushed ice water would cool the boiling wort > appropriately. But will it? Is there a way to figure out what the resultant > temp of the wort would be? I'd hate to end up with wort that was at 120F > and risk possible infection waiting for it to cool in the carboy prior to > pitching. I use 10M of 8mm copper tubing (easy to coil by hand and lots of surface area for the volume) placed in the kitchen sink under running water at 15C. I syphon the almost boiling wort through and it comes out at approx. 18C. It takes about 20 mins to do 5 gallons. I've not done the sums, but I suspect your crushed ice water would warm up too quickly - there's a lot of heat to be transfered! Ifor. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 12:39:23 MET DST From: etxsral at hal.ericsson.se (Lars Nilsson) Subject: Some questions Here is some questions: 1. What is Corn Sugar ? (Sorry for this stupid question but I have never seen this type of sugar in Sweden or the U.K. ) 2. I noticed that Boot's in the U.K. have two different yeast strains Beer Yeast and Genuin Beer Yeast. What's the difference betwen them ? Is the Genuin yeast a real top-fermenting yeast ? - -- Lars Nilsson Communication Engineer Ericsson Telecom AB , Stockholm - Sweden Phone: +46 8 719 7308 , Fax: +46 8 645 6076 E-mail: etxsral at hal.ericsson.se Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 08:40:55 EDT From: card at apollo.hp.com Subject: slimy, foul smelling infections Ken: I'd bet on the water. Try boiling ~ 3-4 gallons a day or 2 ahead. Cool it overnite in the pot and the pour it into the 7 gallon carboy and cool to ~40F in a fridge. Also as a precaution, never add unboiled water (finings, primer, etc.). When racking to the secondary, add boiled and cooled to room temp water to top off. /Mal Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 14:15:44 bst From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at loughborough.ac.uk> Subject: Re : Beer Infections To Kevin McBride : Sorry for the lack of response, but I suspect that public discussion of beer infections is almost as taboo as discussion of personal infections, ie, it is something we have all encountered at one time or another, but are reluctant to admit. When in doubt, suspect your yeast! Just because it is commercially produced doesn't mean it is good. So my first move would be to change strains. Alternatively, if you are really attached to that strain, you might like to try purifying it. The simplest method is to acidify your starter culture overnight at a pH of 4. That should take care of most bacterial nasties. It is a standard routine for those who save and propogate yeast cultures. You could use more advanced lab techniques as described in HD 701. There is a discussion there of the problems of culturing from Chimay. I have also found the same with Guinness. Lastly, an obvious suggestion. Why not try pre-boiling your spring water, or at least giving it a dash of sodium met the day before brewing ? Also, if you have the misfortune to encounter again the beginnings of more spoilage, sodium met treatment at an early enough stage could salvage something drinkable. In that case, you would need to re-pitch with yeast the following day. Regards Conn V Copas tel : (0509)263171 ext 4164 Loughborough University of Technology fax : (0509)610815 Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre Leicestershire LE11 3TU e-mail - G Britain (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut (Internet):C.V.Copas%lut.ac.uk at nsfnet-relay.ac.uk Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 14:15:50 bst From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at loughborough.ac.uk> Subject: Re : Beer Infections To Kevin McBride : Sorry for the lack of response, but I suspect that public discussion of beer infections is almost as taboo as discussion of personal infections, ie, it is something we have all encountered at one time or another, but are reluctant to admit. When in doubt, suspect your yeast! Just because it is commercially produced doesn't mean it is good. So my first move would be to change strains. Alternatively, if you are really attached to that strain, you might like to try purifying it. The simplest method is to acidify your starter culture overnight at a pH of 4. That should take care of most bacterial nasties. It is a standard routine for those who save and propogate yeast cultures. You could use more advanced lab techniques as described in HD 701. There is a discussion there of the problems of culturing from Chimay. I have also found the same with Guinness. Lastly, an obvious suggestion. Why not try pre-boiling your spring water, or at least giving it a dash of sodium met the day before brewing ? Also, if you have the misfortune to encounter again the beginnings of more spoilage, sodium met treatment at an early enough stage could salvage something drinkable. In that case, you would need to re-pitch with yeast the following day. Regards Conn V Copas tel : (0509)263171 ext 4164 Loughborough University of Technology fax : (0509)610815 Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre Leicestershire LE11 3TU e-mail - G Britain (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut (Internet):C.V.Copas%lut.ac.uk at nsfnet-relay.ac.uk Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 09:38:42 edt From: mtavis at saturn.hyperdesk.com (Mike Tavis) Subject: Centennial Hops Has anyone had any experience with Centennial hops? I picked some up the other day because I had never tried them. When I got home and checked my references on hops (including the Zymurgy Hop issue), I couldn't find anything on Centennial. I assume that it is a fairly new variety? So what's it like? Thanks. - -- Mike o o| Michael Tavis, HyperDesk Corporation o o| Suite 300, 2000 West Park Dr., Westboro, MA 01581 ---+ E-mail: mike_t at hyperdesk.com (508) 366-5050 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 09:41:45 EDT From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Colonel John (7 gallon carboys) Colonel John Brewqing Supplies and Equipment 745 Pine Street Boulder, CO 80302 303-442-2789 As far as I know, he doesn't have a catalog, so call him and see if he's got the carboys in stock, the price, et al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 09:57:18 EDT From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Re: Making Mead On Tue, 13 Aug, MIKE LIGAS <LIGAS at SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA> said: MIKE> I boil the honey/water mixture for 30 minutes and chill it. After MIKE> this I usually add various fruits to the cooled solution along with MIKE> some yeast nutrients and tannin. When adding fruit(s) I always add MIKE> 1/4 tsp. pottasium metabisulfite per gallon to sterilize the mixture MIKE> and let it stand (covered) for 24 hours before pitching the yeast. MIKE> This is how wine musts are sterilized since boiling fruit will set MIKE> the pectins and cause chill haze problems, as well as ruin the MIKE> delicate fruit flavours one wishes to enjoy later. I am somewhat allergic to potasium metabisulfite, as are a number of asthmatics, I hear. Some champagnes, labelled ``Contains Sulfites'' have really set me off, so I would like to avoid using them in my recipes for mead. Wouldn't you get the same effect if you boiled/simmered the honey, allowed fermentation to begin until a high alcohol level was achieved, *then* added fruit? To be honest, I did use the sulfite trick for my first batch of mead, and it hasn't bothered me. Of course, subsequent batches without haven't either! Am I missing something? [Where's Cher Feinstein, by the way?] Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Aug 91 08:22:06 From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU> Subject: RE>Homebrew Digest #701 (Au Reply to: RE>Homebrew Digest #701 (Augus In HBD #701 Russ Gelinas says: > Steel cut oatmeal needs to be mashed. Because of the heat and > pressure used to make rolled oats, however, they (rolled) do not need > to be mashed. Sorry Russ but this goes against my understanding of the use of oats, etc. ALL forms of oats must be mashed. Any form other than oatmeal must be "cooked" prior to mashing (just like rice and whole barley) in order to get the starch into the proper condition. The action of "rolling" oats (or other grains) to get "meal" or "flaked" versions does the same work as cooking and they may be added directly to the mash. Adding non-mashed oatmeal to a brew only increases the starch content of the wort which does not ferment out as it never becomes sugar. I believe Miller covers this in TCHoHB. I doubt I have to make this request in this Digest, as I know I hear if I'm off base, however, Please correct me if I am in error here. Thanks, RW... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1991 13:44:59 EDT From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: help Kevin's got a problem with infection. Here's my suggestions: boil *all* of your water, including the Poland Spring water. It can't hurt. Cool your wort as fast as possible, and keep it covered. Use all new tubing. Buy a new bottle filler. Use only squeaky-clean bottles. Soak them overnight in a bleach solution. Boil your bottlecaps. Wash down your whole kitchen. Keep drafts away when brewing. Wear clean clothes when brewing. Don't weed the garden while you're waiting for the wort to cool. An open window on a windy summer day is an invitation for *things* to come into your clean kitchen. I guess most of all, think of any and all ways for those *things* to get into your wort, and eliminate them. The worst case would be to just wait until the summer *thing* activity calms down with the cooler fall weather. But that would mean months without homebrew....hmmmm, I wouldn't want to risk that. Good luck. Russ G. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 12:56:38 CDT From: Brian D. Moore <bemo at spacsun.rice.edu> Subject: Rice Syrup Solids -- how solid? My local HB store had the latest batch of rice syrup solids, so I bought some (surprise), with the intention of making sake. It has been malted and dried, presumably as an adjunct for American-style beers, so I thought I could find a measure of the gravity per pound per gallon, but i haven't yet. So, I put it to those more knowledgable: A pound of RSS in a gallon of water yields what gravity? Anyone? -- bemo Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Aug 91 18:02 GMT From: JUEAL.S at AppleLink.Apple.COM (Jueal, Stacey) Subject: Boulder Creek Brewing/Cafe Dearest fellow homebrewers, In case you haven't heard (and believe me I *CHECKED* past issues before posting this for fear of being shot down in flames ;-) ) While traveling throught the Santa Cruz mountains here in California, Slug and I passed through the quite little town of Boulder Creek. Lo and behold there on the main drag (Highway 9) was the 'Boulder Creek Brewing Co. & Cafe'. Much to our pleasure it was open for business (last time we went through Boulder Creek they were under construction, approx. 9/90). The beertender, Stacey (great name, huh?), assured us they'd been doing a booming business since their opening in 10/90. This was backed up completely by the fine beers we tasted. The first, a marzen, was INCREDIBLE! The second was a bock and equally incredible. The final offering was a Red Ale. We didn't try this one. The first two were so incredible that we each had a second pint of the same beer. As for the food, what a menu. After reading it over it was easy to tell that the proprietor knows what goes with good beer. All I can say is GARLIC FRIES TO DIE FOR!!! Incredible burgers, we tried the cheese, bacon and mushrooms and the cheese and avacado (*VERY* Santa Cruz-ish ;-). Anyway, I heartily reccomend the Boulder Creek Brewing Co. and Cafe to anyone passing through Boulder Creek. We enjoyed it so much that we decided it would be a delightful drive from our home in Mountain View on a lazy Sunday afternoon. It could also be paired with a trip to the Bonny Doon Winery in Bonny Doon! Anyway, for what its worth, there ya have it... Stacey (the Sweetie of 'Slug & Sweetie') Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 15:54:23 EDT From: hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu Subject: Cider list has gone Digest (I think, hope....) To all of you who felt themselves inundated with e-mail from the Cider list (be glad you don't subscribe to xpert at expo.lcs.mit.edu) I have received some scripts from Rob G (your humble HBD coordinator) and seem to have successfully got them working (and blew 1/2 a day, but what the heck it's that or write PEX documentation Ugh...). So now the Cider list is a 2 times a day (11AM & 6PM EWT....Eastern Whatchamacallit Time) in a digest format. It won't send you empty digests (I hope :-) After Cider Season is over I can drop it down to once a day, or leave it as is. Personally I prefer the fast turnaround (and frequent distractions) provided by the mailing list, but a few people voted with their feet, and I figured that no one else would mind a digest format since they are used to the HBD. So once more (Sorry to eat your bandwidth...) To get on the list please do the following: 1) Send Mail to cider-request@ expo.lcs.mit.edu 2) Put the word Subscribe on the subject line To submit to the list: 1) Send mail to cider at expo.lcs.mit.edu etc, etc, etc.... - Jay Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 13:04:30 -0700 From: ez005142 at pollux.ucdavis.edu Subject: Brewing salts (CaCl) Howdy, My terminal has no editor functions so please excuse the typo's. I wrote in last week asking about obtaining CaCl. Thanks to all out there to told me where I could get the stuff. Since no one responded to the article yesterday about the ineffectiveness of CaCl fotr removing carbonate and bicarboneate, I thought I'd demonstrate my limited knowledge of chemistry, and perhaps embarass the hell out of my self in the process. In any case, here's my perception of how CaCl would remove carbonate and bicarbonate without any ill effects. I've got c;lost (close) to 700 ppm of carbonate in my water, and only about 75 ppm of Calcium. In order to remove all that carbonate my idea was to first boil the water. This would convert the carbonate (I mean bicarbonate) into carbonate. Whil boiling I would add a sufficient about of CaCl. The Calcium would go into solution as an ion, in the presence of carbonate \would precipitate out calcium carbontate. Meanwhile, the cholirne ion that is also dissolved in the water would become volatlile and evaporeate into Cl2 in the air. So I would have precipitated out all the bicarbonate in my water with the calcium, and the clhlorine ions would evaporate harmelessly into the air. Problem solvesd, and not b (no bad) tatste imparted on my water. Please correct me if I am wrong about the above chemistry (but don't correct my typo's please!). Miller talks about similar reactions using Calcium sulfate, but I don't want to add all that sulfate to my water which already has too much to being with (begin with). The final alternative is to buy bottled water. What a drag! Thanks to all you who have a better knowledge of the chemical world than I do--I'm ust a simple biologist. Hey, better living through chemisty right? Adios. Chris Swingley csswingley at ucdavis.edu Institute ogf Ecology University of California, Davis Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 10:34 CDT From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Re: John Bull Extract I used John Bull Dark Unhopped for a recent stout (sorry, I don't have the recipe here, at work). It tastes great, but on the boulder (BORDER!) between a porter and a stout -- i.e. a little bit too much "roasted, unmalted barley bite" for a stout. I don't recall how much roasted barley (if any) I added. Nonetheless, I can recommend John Bull Dark Unhopped malt extract. Al. korz at ihlpl.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 10:52 CDT From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Re: Wild and crazy yeasts Tom writes: > I was looking at some bottles of Lindeman's Belgian beer(Peche) >and noticed that they had some sediment at the bottom of these >bottles. Does this sediment contain "wild yeast" and if so has >anyboby tried culturing these yeast? Well, yes the sediment is yeast, but there's a great deal more to making a Lambic than simply culturing the dregs of a bottle of Lambic. There are no less than three types of bacteria and three types of yeast that conspire to make Lambic. If you simply cultured the dregs, you would get part of the flavor, but not all of it. Get Jean-Xavier Guinard's book "Lambic" from the AHA Classic Beer Series, if you are really serious about making a pseudo-Lambic. Call the AHA at (303)447-0816 to order. Al. korz at ihlpl.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 10:59 CDT From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Priming with malt extract Since corn sugar is 100% fermentable and dry malt extract is not, you need to use more dry malt extract than you would corn sugar when priming. I use 20% more (by weight) dry malt extract than corn sugar (based on what a recipe might say). Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 11:02 CDT From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Re: gusher Nils asks: >Oh yeah, any idea why a beer would gush when opened warm but not when >it's been chilled? More CO2 dissolves in the beer when it's cold. When it's warm, much of the CO2 comes out of solution: GUSH! Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 12:13 CDT From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Re: Guinness-style taps They are available from Foxx 1-800-821-2254. They also have Bass taps also (which I understand are an obscure tap as well). Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1991 17:16 EDT From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: Thomas Jefferson, Fellow Homebrewer Gary Varner, an old graduate school buddy, sent me this the other day. Thought I'd share it with the Digest. - ------------- Today as I looked (for wholly unrelated reasons) through a copy of _Thomas_Jefferson's_Farmbook_ (a facsimile of Jefferson's records plus excerpts from many letters) I ran across some letters he wrote regarding homebrewing. They illustrate some of the eternal verities of the malted beverage. 1) You can never have too many good bottles on hand. "I am now engaged in brewing a year's supply of malt strong beer, which however I have no chance of saving but by a supply of quart jugs from you. I recieved [sic] (I think) 10 1/2 dozen and must ask the favor of 4 gross more [=576] for which Mr. Gibson will pay your bill." (letter to Richard Randolph, written at Monticello, March 20, 1814) 2) Not everybody's a hophead. "Our brewing of the last autumn is generally good, altho' not as much as that of the preceding year, the batch we are now using is excellent. That which Peter Hemings did for Mr. Bankhead was good, and the brewing of corn which he did here after your departure would have been good, but that he spoiled it by over-hopping. A little more experience however will make him a good brewer. My absence in Bedford in the spring prevented our preparing some malt then, which I now regret." (letter to Joseph Miller, written at Monticello, June 26, 1815) 3) Some people disagree with the German beer purity law. "During the revolutionary war, the brewers on James river used Indian corn almost exclusively of all other. In my family brewing I have used wheat also as we do not raise barley." (letter to Joseph Coppinger, written at Monticello, April 25, 1815) - --------------- Kinney Baughman | Beer is my business and baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu | I'm late for work. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 12:47 CDT From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: ice With all due respect to Bill's calculations, I brew empirically. Before I built my immersion chiller, I used to make 2 gallon boils and add 1 gallon of partially frozen pre-boiled water and two gallons of pre-boiled water from the fridge at about 40F. After all that, my wort was at about 75F, at which time I could safely splash it into the carboy and pitch. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 22:00:22 PDT From: chad at mpl.UCSD.EDU (Chad Epifanio) Subject: smorgasborge No, I really don't care if the subject heading is spelled wrong. Well, I certainly got a plethera of responces to the thermometer incident. Yes, it was mercury. Never fear, I was outside at the time. Only a little bit got on my sandwich. The rest splashed into the pool. Putting that foolishness aside, I recall someone asking about hopped extracts awhile back. Nobody posted the summary from Zymurgy, special hop issue '90. So, for those of you who have no access to Zymurgy, here's a treat... NAME DRY/SYRUP PKG.SIZE HBU/CAN HBU/LB =============================================================================== EDME LTD. Superbrew Gold Bitter s 4 12 3 " " Lager s 4 8.5 2.1 " Stong Ale s 4 12 3 Dogbolter s 4 9 2.25 Arkells Bitter s 4 15 3.75 " Lager s 4 15 3.75 Superbrew Light s 3.3 9 2.7 " Dark s 3.3 9 2.7 " Pale Lager s 3.3 7.5 2.3 " English Bitter s 3.3 9 2.7 " Stout s 4 9 2.25 Brewcraft Trad. Bitter s 4 15 3.75 Brewcraft Pilsner Lager s 4 11 2.75 PAINE'S PLC. John Bull Hopped Light s 3.3 9 2.7 John Bull Hopped Amber s 3.3 10 3 John Bull Master Class Bitter s 4 18 4.6 John Bull Master Class LAger s 4 13.5 3.4 John Bull American Beer s 4 4.5 1.4 John Bull American Lite s 4 5.3 1.6 BREWING PRODUCTS LTD. Ironmaster LAger s 4 6 1.5 " Stout s 4 10 2.5 " Pilsener s 4 8 2 " Bitter s 4 12 3 " Brown Ale s 4 6-7 1.5-1.75 " Pale Ale s 4 7 1.75 " Belgian Dark s 4 10 2.5 " Canadian Ale s 4 10 2.5 " Belgian Light s 4 9 2.25 " Export Bitter s 4 10 2.5 Telfords Nut Brown Ale s 3.3 8 2.4 " Pilsner s 3.3 8 2.4 " Stout s 3.3 12 3.6 " Porter s 3.3 7 2.1 " Wheat Beer s 3.3 9 2.7 " LAger 3.3 9 2.7 " Export Ale 3.3 8.5 2.5 " Trad. Ale 3.3 10 3 " Extra Pale Ale 3.3 7 2.1 GLENBREW LTD Light Hopped s 3.3 8.5 2.6 Amber Hopped s 3.3 11 3.3 Dark Hopped s 3.3 8.5 2.6 Pilsner s 3.3 7 2.1 Scotch Bitter s 3.3 11 3.3 Scottish Lager s 3.3 11 3.3 80/-Ale; Heavy s 3.3 8.5 2.6 70/-Ale; SPecial s 3.3 7 2.1 Brewmart Imp. Danish Pilsner s 3.3 11 3.3 " " Dutch Lager s 3.3 9 2.7 " " Spec. Pilsner s 3,3 12 3.6 " " Australian s 3.3 8.5 2.6 " " Dry s 3.3 9 2.7 SPECIALTY PRODUCTS INTERNATIONAL LTD. Light s 3.1 7.5 2.3 Amber s 3.1 7.5 2.3 Dark s 3.1 7.5 2.3 Pilsner s 3.1 7.5 2.3 Octoberfest s 3.1 7.5 2.3 BOck s 3.1 7.5 2.3 MUNTON & FISON PLC Hopped light s 3.3 7.5 2.3 Hopped Amber s 3.3 12.5 3.8 Hopped Dark s 3.3 12.5 3.8 Old Ale s 3.3 12.5 3.8 LAger s 3.3 7.5 2.3 Premium s 3.3 12.5 3.8 Stout s 3.3 13.75 4.2 American Light s 3.3 5.75 1.7 Pilsner s 3.3 7.5 2.3 Canadian Ale s 3.3 7.5 2.3 Spraymalt Hopped Light d n/a 2.3 " " Amber d n/a 3.5 TOM CAXTON, LTD Super System Bitter s 3.3 8 2.4 " " LAger s 3.3 8 2.4 " " Yorkshire s 3.3 11 3.3 " " Pilsner s 3.3 9 2.7 " " Export s 3.3 11 2.4 Standard Bitter s 3.3 11 2.4 " Lager s 3.3 8.5 2.6 Whew!! Please excuse this if some one else has already posted something like this in the past. End of HOMEBREW Digest #702, 08/15/91 ************************************* -------
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