HOMEBREW Digest #76 Mon 13 February 1989

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  What is 'rec.food.drink' ("HQEIS::KEISTER")
  Wanted: malt extract recipies (J. Wayne Boyer)
  High terminal SG also ("MISVX1::HABERMAND")
  Re: Wyeast #2042 (Danish lager) (lbr)
  re: What is your extract efficiency? (lbr)
  dry hopping (jhersh)
  kegs, canisters, and first time brewing  (Michael L. Farkas)
  apple cider disaster (Andre Trudel)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 13 Feb 89 08:32:00 EST From: "HQEIS::KEISTER" <keister%hqeis.decnet at hqafsc-vax.ARPA> Subject: What is 'rec.food.drink' Occaisionally, I see referrences to recipies, etc. that were posted on 'rec.food.drink'. What is rec.food.drink and is it available to ARPAnet nodes? - Alan ------ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 89 09:40:17 -0500 From: jwb at mentor.cc.purdue.edu (J. Wayne Boyer) Subject: Wanted: malt extract recipies Hello, I am looking for some good malt extract recipies. Specifically, recipies for porters, sweet stouts (like Mackeson) and Barley Wines (like Old Nick). I have Papazian's book on home brewing, but the recipies are a bit limited. There are no recipies for barley wine style ales in his book. So, if you have any favorite recipies that you would be willing to share, they would be appreciated. Thanks, Wayne Boyer (jwb at mentor.cc.purdue.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Feb 89 08:37:00 PST From: "MISVX1::HABERMAND" <habermand%misvx1.decnet at afrpl-vax.ARPA> Subject: High terminal SG also It seems that I am having the same problem with a high terminal gravity that Len Reed mentions in Digest #72. I started with 6 lbs. dark Australian DME, 1 lb. carmel crystal malt, and 3 oz. hops. The initial gravity was 1.055. I pitched with Wyeast 1098 (British Ale). It took about a day to get going since I just used the starter in the foil pouch that it came with. After 4 more days, it seemed like the fermentation had stopped. I checked the SG and it was 1.021. The directions I was following said to bottle after fermentation stopped. Other instructions I have seen, say to let the brew rest for 5 days after fermentation stops before bottling. I racked it into a secondary fermentation container and decided to wait another couple of weeks to see what would happen. After 3 weeks the SG is now 1.019 which I think is a little high. I topped it off with about 1/2 gal. of water to make 5 gallons. The SG is now 1.017 and I am waiting another week to bottle. I really like the aroma and flavor the way it is now. My question is: The recipe calls for 1 cup priming sugar at bottling. Should I add the whole cup with this high gravity or would a half cup be better? Thanks, David ------ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 89 11:42:38 EST From: lbr at gatech.edu Subject: Re: Wyeast #2042 (Danish lager) > Len Reed writes about a high terminal gravity with his beer made > with Wyeast Danish lager yeast. I have had a similar experience. > With a steam beer recipe that I've made about 6 times with very > little variation, switching from #2035 (don't remember it's name) > to #2042 with no other changes gave me a terminal gravity of 1.018 > instead of 1.013. I think of this batch as "Danish Steam Syrup". > The data I have from Wyeast claims attenuation of 4-5% less with > 2042 as compared to 2035 but I didn't realize the implication of > this at the time. Since then my supplier has confirmed that 2042 > just doesn't munch as much of the sugars. I think that it also doesn't like really cold temperatures. It seems to quit working when the temperature falls much below 50 degF. I also probably managed to acclimate the yeast to a high temperature in the first week of fermentation. (We had a real warm spell and I don't have a beer fridge.) The temperature in my fermentataion shed went into the mid 50s yesterday and the stuff is fermenting again. Another batch--started two weeks later and thus missing the severe warm spell-- fermented fine at lower temperatures, but still couldn't deal well with 45. BTW, I got a fine Pilsner using #2402. Fermentation and aging took place at about 50. Attenuation was fine. It has a softer flavor the the standard (P.U.), but I'd call this a difference rather than a flaw. It is by far the current house favorite. > So it is possible the 160 degree mash is another red herring, although I > realize that all the popular literature says 160 should give a large > fraction of dextrins. Perhaps an experiment with a starter and some > dry malt extract with known characteristics might clear things up. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 89 11:59:01 EST From: lbr at gatech.edu Subject: re: What is your extract efficiency? Darryl Richman <darryl at ism780c.isc.com> wrote: > Yes, well, Noonan is not a complete handbook, but I do like the sharp > focus he has.... > [Miller's] book is more frustrating than Noonan because you aren't as certain > about his biases. Well, my complaint about the formulas was a nit-pick. I like Noonan's book a lot. His book would be troublesome for a beginning grain brewer, though, because it lacks the low-level how-to information. That's fine--it's not his focus, and I was happy not to have to wade through that. I wish Noonan had given me some idea about what compromising certain things would do to the result. My biggest compromise right now is fermentation temperature: I trust to luck. But look at what he suggests: gradually lower the temperature, then raise it briefly to get the yeast to absorb diacitals (sp?), then lower it. The lager at very low temperature. Then slighly higher after bottling. To do this and overlap batches I'd need a row of refridgerators. How much can I compromise this, and what effect will it have on the beer? It's nice to know what a pro would do, but I'd like to know if corner- cutting is going to have a marked or a minor effect. Some of his recommendations seem like labor for no benefit. I've never had a defective hot or cold break. I can't imagine withdrawing boiling wort and force cooling it to 50 degF to check for the break. He doesn't say that you might want to do this; he says you should do this. This implies that failure to do this (or, say the iodine test) may ruin the beer. Nonsense. He also says you should dough in at 60 degF and then boost to 120. I toss the grain into 135 degF water, which gives me 120. His method seems like extra work. (Will it give a higher extract? If that's *all* it will do the hell with it.) " I (Len Reed == gatech!holos0!lbr) wrote that I do the iodine test, but " consider it near-worthless. > Then you and [Miller] will get along here well. I find that the iodine check is > very interesting to watch as conversion nears completion. The time it takes > for the iodine to produce a reaction indicates the starch level left and > as it asymptotically approaches 0, I get an idea of how much further to go. Do you then use the idoine test data to determine how much longer (past 100% conversion) to leave the mash to get the proper dextrin/maltose balance? Or do you merely use the test to estimate how long until the test will be negative? I get a negative reaction in 1-20 minutes, but leave the mash 30-60 minutes total. Knowing after 5 minutes that the test will be negative after 15 rather than 20 minutes seems of no real value; knowing how long to leave the mash to get the balance by some means other than the traditional one (wait until you measure the final gravity) would be useful. " [I said I get 65-70% extract.] > You are looking at Noonan's decoction number, for infusion he quotes > 70%. (Are you doing decoction?) Yes. I haven't noted a great deal of difference in extract between infusion mashing British pale malt and decoction mashing N. American malt. The latter makes far more trub. I've not tried decoction vs. infusion for the same malt. Infusion mashing lager malt is a poor idea, isn't it? > Anyway, to get back to the original issue, getting 1.030 sg/lb./gal. > seems to be above average in homebrewing circles and is nothing to > be worried about. Fine. It's fermentation temperatures that are bugging me now that I'm trying to make lager beer. I've made satisfactory ales in the easily attained range of high 50's to middle 70s. I'll probably spring for a used fridge if I can't be assured that *one* will get me through the summer months when light lagers (a la Carlsberg) are so nice. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 89 11:35:11 est From: jhersh at rdrc.rpi.edu Subject: dry hopping Some of the people dicussing the subject seem to be missing the point of dry hopping (though others understand). Dry hopping is not done for bittering, but for aromatics. It is the oils, and not the alpha acids one seeks here. I saw a suggested technique in Vol 1-5 of Best of Beer and Brewing for sterilizing the hops prior to dry hopping. The suggestion was to flash pasteurize them by steeping them or bioling them in 180F plus water for just one minute, then adding the hops and sterile water to the fermenter. I haven't tried this yet but it seems reasonable. Doing this should both kill bacteria and not drive off too many aromatics. If somebody tries this before I do (probably a few weeks as all my carboys are currently in use) give a shout back - jay h Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 89 10:49 PST From: Michael L. Farkas <Farkas at GODZILLA.SCH.Symbolics.COM> Subject: kegs, canisters, and first time brewing Well guys, I've finally decided to take the plunge. I'm getting ready to make my first batch of beer. I'm going for a lager (seems like the easiest for a first time brewer). But it seems like such a pain putting the stuff in bottles, so I want to go with a tapping system. Now for the questions... 1) I only have the resources to make it in five gallon batches. am I better off doing it in one of those five gallon soda syrup cannisters, or is it okay to brew only five gallons in a 1/4 or 1/2 keg? 2) If i do it in a five gallon soda cannister, am I brain damaged thinking that I can easily adapt the setup so I can use either the five gallon cannister or a keg, so I can buy commercial stuff when I don't have the time to make my own? 3) If I am brain damaged, is it going to cost me a fortune to buy a setup with two taps so I can keep both on tap? 4) Where in the Los Angeles area can I buy the tapping/cooling setup that won't cost me my life savings? 5) Is there anything I should know about Los Angeles water, as far as conditioning it so my beer tastes GREAT? (I hope I'm not boring you) See ya around... Mike Farkas "This is a stick up...Your life, or your beer" "Can I have a few minutes to think about it?" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 89 23:00:59 EST From: Andre Trudel <anatrudel at watdragon.waterloo.edu> Subject: apple cider disaster Back in early november i bought 5 gallons of apple juice (no preservatives). I threw in a packet of champagne yeast and let it ferment until xmas (nothing else was added). Before bottling at xmas, i added 1 1/4 cup of sugar. I now have 60 bottles of flat almost tasteless liquid. Anybody know what i did wrong? Is there anything that can be done with the stuff now? Andre Return to table of contents
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