HOMEBREW Digest #809 Fri 24 January 1992

Digest #808 Digest #810

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  To Blow-Off Or Not? (John DeCarlo)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #808 (January 23, 1992) (Richard Foulk)
  Interesting Experience (Steve Anthony)
  Re. Old Carboys (Michael Biondo)
  re: Homebrew Digest #801 (January 14, 1992) (John A. Palkovic)
  Grain Mill Discovery!!!!! (CITJLF)
  Brewpub laws (changing) (jay marshall 283-5903)
  Shipping beer (John Freeman)
  zero-g fermentation (Sean J. Caron)
  Eisbock? (Chris Shenton)
  Re:  blow-off (Walter H. Gude)
  Cheap Soda Kegs ("John Cotterill")
  Re: Old Carboys  (gkushmer)
  Oak Chips in an IPA (ingr!b11!mspe5!guy)
  Zero-G Brewing, Root Beer ? (Richard Childers)
  Re: blow-off (korz)
  Re: Yeast Starters / Faucet Adapters (Peter Glen Berger)
  CO2 Volume/temp/pressure chart. (key)
  RIMS Part 2 (Alan Gerhardt)
  The neoprohibitionists are at it again. ("DRCV06::GRAHAM")
  lauter tuns (Brian Bliss)
  rye grains (Brian Bliss)
  Legal status of homebrewing elsewhere (Ken Dobson)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thursday, 23 Jan 1992 08:01:59 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: To Blow-Off Or Not? >From: Alan Mayman <maymanal at scvoting.fvo.osd.mil> >I would like to enquire about blow off tubes. >In Mr. Millers book he views the act as wastefull and possibly >unsanitary (where the tube may provide a path for bacteria to >travel back into one's fermenter). However we also have Mr. >Papazian, a proponent of the blow off method, who states the >process removes fusel oils (?) and other unsavory gack from your >bubbling brew. This is still a subject of some controversy. Kinney Baughman and I have corresponded on this subject, with both of us recalling a study done, possibly at UC Davis, to which we can't find a reference. As you can see with Miller and Papazian, people believe different things. However, it does seem that you can brew really good beer either way, so while blow-off may or may not be harmful/beneficial, the exact benefits/harms are not well known. Blow-off is not a common technique among commercial brewers, but their techniques are different enough from homebrewing techniques that this comparison may not be useful. If I had to try and say something relatively unbiased in conclusion, I would say that if you don't use a secondary fermenter, you may well benefit from having stuff removed during blow-off. OTOH, if you rack to a secondary fermenter shortly after high kraeusen, you are leaving behind a fair amount of trub in the primary, thereby avoiding any need for blow-off. Anyone know if there are any statistics on award-winners and percentage of those who use blow-off? Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 03:36:53 HST From: richard at pegasus.com (Richard Foulk) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #808 (January 23, 1992) >>richard at pegasus.com (Richard Foulk) says (referencing Miller's CHHB): >>> He also says that chloroform is another name for THM. > >>IFF Miller says that, he blows much of his credibility as a chemist. > >As a matter of fact he doesn't say that, he says that chloroform is >a THM, and that the water analysis doesn't distinguish between THM's. > My apologies for misquoting Dave Miller. I just got a copy of his book a couple weeks ago, after seeing many good reviews in HBD and rec.crafts.brewing on the Usenet. Great book. - -- Richard Foulk richard at pegasus.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 09:20:16 EST From: Steve Anthony <steveo at Think.COM> Subject: Interesting Experience I brewed up a dopplebok a couple of weeks ago and had an interesting experience. I'm working my way up to all-grain (I do partial grain now) and had made use of some new equipment. When I was done, I had about 3.5g of wort and added that to 1.5g of water. My method todate has been to let this settle overnight, and then siphon the beer off the settled trub and then pitch the yeast. I've found that this has led to a minimum of sediment in the finished product. However, my brews have had some infection problems in the past few batches, so I've avoided the plastic pails I was using and just pitched directly into the carboy that had the beer, trub and all. I had waited until the beer was about 70F before pitching, and there was a good 2-3" of trub at the bottom of the carboy. After three days, nothing. Relaxing, I looked at my logs from the previous batch, where I used the same yeast (WYeast, Bavarian Lager). It had taken 3 days for that to show signs of activity. So I waited. After 5 days, still nothing. Now, worried, I reasoned that I had a bottom fermenting yeast that was down there in the trub looking for things to eat and not finding anything. So I got a siphon tube, sanitized it and stirred the muck up. Two days later, it was off and running. It's still (1 week later) going crazy! The 2-3" of trub has been blown up into suspension by the activity of the yeast. It is absolutely amazing to watch. So I think I solved the immediate problem; this batch. But the longer term problem remains. How to avoid getting the trub in the carboy. How do you netbrewers deal with this? I was thinking of a 6g carboy, adjusting the recipe to fill it and then after the trub had settled, siphon to a 5g and pitch, but there must be a cheaper and easier way. Ideas? Steve Anthony | "Ain't nobody gettin' outta here | (617) 234-4000 | with out singin' the blues" | steveo at think.com | - Albert "The Iceman" Collins | Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 08:26:18 CST From: michael at wupsych.wustl.edu (Michael Biondo) Subject: Re. Old Carboys >distilled water until a ph of zero is reached. ^^^^^^^^^^ Yikes! talk about your acid indigestion!! (Um, let's see - how am I going to get out of this one? Yeah! blame it on the the mailer! The mailer - yeah, that's the ticket!!) Sorry folks what I really typed was a 'ph of seven point zero' I guess the ^^^^^^^^^^^ mailer got hungry at that very moment and ate the 'seven point' part of my p[ post. Geez, it's hard to get good help these days - oh my what's a mother to do! (I think from now on I'll make sure to reread my stuff before hitting the old <Ctrl> D) Mike Biondo michael at wupsych.wustl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 92 07:17:19 -0600 From: john at warped.phc.org (John A. Palkovic) Subject: re: Homebrew Digest #801 (January 14, 1992) Please remove this address (john at warped.phc.org) from the HBD mailing list. -John - --- john at warped.phc.org || palkovic at cs.niu.edu I joined the League for Programming Freedom -- Send mail to league at prep.ai.mit.edu. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 08:09:36 MST From: CITJLF at arizvm1.ccit.arizona.edu Subject: Grain Mill Discovery!!!!! - -------------------------- Original Message -------------------------- While registering with my bride to be at the mall this weekend I accidentally discovered a grain mill for kitchen use that operates using three serrated stainless steel cylinders - just like the big guys!! This manufacturer also makes pasta makers. So forget trying to destroy your pasta machine. The name of this product is: The Marcato Marga Mulino Grain Crusher/Grain Mill. Of course it's obviously made in Italy. I asked the store clerk if this was a new product and he said that no, they've always been able to order it along with all the other pasta equipment but just never ordered it. He also said that they have sold several already. Here's the info that I can remember about it. First the price is $69.00. I haven't bought one yet, I'm waiting to see if I get it for a wedding present. If I don't get one, I will buy one for sure! It has three settings: 1) for crushing grain into flour 2) for crushing grain into flakes with some flour 3) for crushing grain to just expose the inside with no flour created It even mentioned all the different types of grains you could use and of course barley was mentioned. From my memory, the unit stands about 6-7 inches high, about 5 inches square. It was made of chromed steel and came with a low hopper of about 2 inches in height - this will require a minor modification to increase the height. The three rollers beneath the hopper are very strong and of course have many gripping grooves. Two rollers are on top, side by side and the third rests beneath these two. Their distance is controlled by an adjustable knob on the side of the unit. And lastly this device comes with a hand crank. I WANT ONE, I WANT ONE!!!!! By the way, the store that I found this in is called Table Talk here in Tucson and carries everthing you could ever think of for the kitchen. When I finally aquire this luxery unit I'll post more info on it. John Francisco University of Arizona Computer Center Tucson, Arizona 85721 602-621-6727 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 11:25:34 CST From: jay marshall 283-5903 <marshall at sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov> Subject: Brewpub laws (changing) andy at wups.wustl.edu (Andy Leith) says in HBD #808: >On another Miller topic, the brewpub of which he is brewmaster has >recently opened in St. Louis, after a considerable amount of effort >expended by Dave on getting Missouri's laws changed. We previously >had a three tier system here which forbade brewers from retailing their >wares, there is now a clause exempting producers of less then 2000 bbls >per year (I think that figure is about right). Texas is another state which has the three-tier system :-( but the ABC rules are up for review in '93. I am planning on lobbying my local representative to insert a clause such as the one that Andy mentioned. Can you folks on the net tell me what the restrictions are in the states that allow brewbubs. Any other hints for people trying to take on the big-boys who, I imagine, will be interested in keeping the status quo? thanks, jay marshall at sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (snappy brew-related closing quip under contruction.) ~ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 11:29:11 CST From: jlf at poplar.cray.com (John Freeman) Subject: Shipping beer Well, I hate to do bring this up again, but how does one ship beer? I just came from my unfriendly local UPS Center where I was told "We don't ship alcohol of any kind". The manager gave me the same story. First, they tried to tell me it was a law. When I pointed out that it wasn't a law, and asked him to show me a written policy, then he said he could refuse my package for any reason. After more BS, he said he was sorry he couldn't help me. I doubt his sincerity. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 09:57:03 EST From: Sean J. Caron <CARONS at TBOSCH.dnet.ge.com> Subject: zero-g fermentation i was just wondering the same thing. also, how would you seperate the trub from the beer after fermentation? no gravity to pull it out of suspension, you know. maybe a centrifuge would work? who would be interested in going to work on a space station or a long space voyage if you couldn't homebrew? really! i'm serious! sean Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 09:37:36 PST From: css at boa.CCSF.Caltech.EDU (Chris Shenton) Subject: Eisbock? Date: Wed, 22 Jan 92 21:16:47 -0700 From: David Suda <suda at barley.Colorado.EDU> My brewing partner has committed us to brewing an eisbock. How are you going to freeze it? Stuff a carboy in a freezer? or bottle - -- sans caps? -- then freeze? If the latter, you should probably top off each bottle since you'll lose some to the ice. Our current plan is to start with a dopplebock (OG ~1.080) and then put it through the "ice" process. Is it possible to carbonate the beer, freeze it, and then bottle the results with an acceptable carbonation level? Why carbonate first? Sure, I've had my fair share of ``ice cold beer'' which froze upon uncapping, so that will work. Seems unnecessary tho. If any of you have experience with or references to this process, I'd appreciate your help. Also, are there any commercial examples available in the US? I believe EKU-28 (Germany) is an Eisbock. If I remember correctly, the 28 is the initial gravity in degrees plato. (It may be Samiclaus, though; I don't have the book here). Check Jackson's world guide to beer: he talks a little about it there. Let us know how it comes out! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 10:12:10 CST From: whg at tellab5.tellabs.com (Walter H. Gude) Subject: Re: blow-off When I do use a blowoff method I normally put the end of my tude in just plain old water. Once your blowing away I don't think that there is much threat of anything crawling back up the tube. One thing to consider is that if the temp of the wort in the fermenter is not completely cooled to room temp when you put on the tude, then the cooling wort will contract and suck water (or air if your not in water) back up the tube. (once fermentation starts this is not problem). Before swithing to a 1" tube and a wort chiller, I actually had water sucked all the way back into the fermenter. I'd hate to think that I might suck bleach back into there. If your really worried about infection try putting the hose in water with a shot of vodka. Walter Gude Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 9:41:01 PST From: "John Cotterill" <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com> Subject: Cheap Soda Kegs Full-Name: "John Cotterill" I was looking for this information during the thread on kegging and artificial carbonation, but could not find it. Well last night I did. Here is a source of cheap used kegs. I bought a bunch last year. They were all in very good shape and held pressure. They were ball lock Spartan Cornelius type kegs. They were $25.00 each (I don't know if that price is still current). Hope this helps some of you get into kegging. Art's Brewing Supplies 640 SO. 250 West Salt Lake City, Utah 84101 801-533-8029 John johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 13:19:39 EST From: gkushmer at Jade.Tufts.EDU Subject: Re: Old Carboys Funny someone else should ask that question. A couple of months ago I too received an old carboy that had dirt in it (but no scratches). I first tried to use a strong ammonia and then bleach solution on this. The bleach solution succeeded in getting the dirt out, but I saw two rust stains on the bottom of the thing once the dirt was clear. After posting to the net, I went out to Grossman's and bought some HCl (I can't remember the brand name of this stuff but have it at home if you want to know). After a day of soaking the carboy in an acid-water solution (not very diluted), the rust stains disappeared. Already I have used the carboy as a secondary for some cider and everything came out OK. - --gk ============================================================================== We're not hitchiking anymore - we're riding! -Commander Hoeke - ---------------------------- gkushmer at jade.tufts.edu - ---------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 12:07:07 CST From: ingr!ingr!b11!mspe5!guy at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Oak Chips in an IPA A quick question to anyone who has used oak chips in an IPA. I have one in the primary that I want to rack on Monday into a secondary containing the oak. My question is, how do you sanitze the oak chips (or do you)? Charlie says something about "steaming" them. How does one accomplish this? Any insight will be appreciated. - -- Guy McConnell "And the beer I had for breakfast wasn't bad, so I had one for dessert" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 11:27:55 PST From: Richard Childers <rchilder at us.oracle.com> Subject: Zero-G Brewing, Root Beer ? "From: Frank Tutzauer <COMFRANK at ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu> Subject: zero-g yeastie boys "Well, the shuttle, Discovery, lifted off this morning (Wednesday), and I heard on the radio that one of their main projects is to do experiments on plant growth and small-animal behavior. What I want to know is this: If you fermented in a free-fall spherical fermenter, how would you tell the bottom fermenting yeast from the top fermenting yeast." Perhaps by using a rotating still ? Or, better yet, by introducing minute amounts of turbulence to the already complex fluid dynamics of the solution with a magnetic stirrer, you might evenly distribute the yeast throughout and make the gravity-derived categories obsolete and irrelevant, as they brew things undreamed of by us earth-bound mortals ... I can just see it ... "Atmospheric Ambrosia", 'bottled' in a bubble of soft and non-reactive polymer, with a disposable one-way valve to squirt contents into one's mouth ... made in huge, Sun-warmed vats in fixed orbit ... -=*=- On a ( slightly ) more serious subject ... does anyone know _anything_ about making root beer ? It takes sasparilla, that much I think I'm sure of. Does one treat the root like one does grain ? Do conventional brewing yeasts work ? Does anyone have any references to articles or literature ? - -- richard ===== - -- richard childers rchilder at us.oracle.com 1 415 506 2411 oracle data center -- unix systems & network administration "Anything is possible, if you don't care who gets the credit." -- Harry Truman Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 14:08 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Re: blow-off Alan writes: >In my vast experience (3 batches!) I have found that not so much gack >(or spooge-gack as we say `round here) comes out of my blow-tube to >make the process prohibitively wastefull, so that leaves the possible >route for infection as a possible detractor to this method. >What if I just put the end of my blow tube in a container that has some >bleach water or something in it, wouldnt that prohibit any nasties from >cruising up by tube (so to speak)?. Being one of the more vocal proponents of the blow-off method, I felt a responsibility to respond. I feel that the chances of nasties traveling back up the blow-off tube are virtually nil. I can't imagine how they would propel themselves the three or so feet from the blow-off collection vessel to the carboy. I use a blow-off tube during the first week or so, sometimes using bleach in the blow-off collection vessel and other times not, and then switch to an airlock. Note, that I use a 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD hose since the explosion, four years ago. If you want to stay completely worry-free and bleach in the collection vessel will help you do that, then by all means use bleach. I have yet to notice a difference. >Also, what about the contents of the stuff being blown out? Is it truly >that detrimental to the finished product? My information on this from Papazian so I can't add to what you've read. I noticed a slight improvement in flavor when I switched to blow-off (six years ago), at which time I was specifically researching how different ingredients and procedures affected my beer and thus made an effort to only change one aspect of my process at a time. It was quite a while ago (and many, many beers ago) so I can't recall the exact flavor qualities that were affected -- only that they were significant enough to decide to not go back to non-blow-off again. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1992 15:18:51 -0500 (EST) From: Peter Glen Berger <pb1p+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Re: Yeast Starters / Faucet Adapters I generally just let my starter cool slightly in the pot, pour it into a sanitized bottle which is simultaneously being force-cooled by being immersed in ice-water. Even better, a snow bank. Pitch the yeast when it's still slightly warmer than optimal fermentation temperature to give it a jump start. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pete Berger || ARPA: peterb at cs.cmu.edu Professional Student || Pete.Berger at andrew.cmu.edu Univ. Pittsburgh School of Law || BITNET: R746PB1P at CMCCVB Attend this school, not CMU || UUCP: ...!harvard!andrew.cmu.edu!pb1p - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Goldilocks is about property rights. Little Red Riding Hood is a tale of seduction, rape, murder, and cannibalism." -Bernard J. Hibbits - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 16:35:27 EST From: key at cs.utk.edu Subject: CO2 Volume/temp/pressure chart. It's now available in a one-page Postscript (thanks to Perry Donham) as well as the old text file. Please specify which you need in your E-mail message. Patience is appreciated in waiting on responses, the interest has been incredible! Ken Key (key at cs.utk.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Jan 92 17:12:00 EDT From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> Subject: PUMPING BEER. I'm doing some mental designing for a medium sized basement brewery. I want to use a pu mp of some sort to move beer or wort from one vessal to another. A peristoltic pump is out of the question because of cost. I've been looking at the Little Giant SC serive magnitic drive pumps. They are not NSC or FDA or USP approved for food grade materials, but I'm not sure that should bother me. The actual liquid contact time would be on the order of miliseconds. The materials that the liquid would come in contact with are: A polypropolyne impellar, some Aluminum impregnated ceramic and a couple of O rings. I figure that, since it is rated for saltwater aquaria, the O rings should be pretty inert. I'm not worried about the momentary contact with the polypropolyne, but I am concerned about the ceramic and Aluminum stuff. Should I be concerned? Should I be concerned about things I've said I wasn't? This pump does 470 gallons per hour and costs $119 from "That Fish Place," so would be a pretty good deal if it's useable. Am I nuts? Thoughts? Dan Graham Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 14:57:32 -0600 From: agerhardt at ttsi.lonestar.org (Alan Gerhardt) Subject: RIMS Part 2 As promised, here's a description of my RIMS unit. I started with the R. Morris basic design and adapted it as needed. I think Rodney deserves a lot of credit for coming up a practical homebrewer's implementation of this idea. His methods sure gave me a headstart. I wanted the unit to be able to do at least a 10 gal batch size, which for me usually equates to 16-20 lbs of grain, so I chose a 5KW heating element from WW Grainger. It is a very low heat density element which is advertised to be able to even run dry. It is a very long element, which has in a "U" shape, and folded over to be about 19" long. It cost about $20, but has turned out to be a very good investment, in that I have seen no evidence of excessive heating (which would kill the enzymes) or scorching. With this element, I get about 1.75-2 degrees/min temperature boost with 18 lbs of grain and about 7-8 gal of water. I used a length of 1.5" (about 21") copper pipe as an element housing, with a cap for each end, and assorted fittings to connect things up. outlet------------------------------------------------- .5" copper pipe ----------------------------------------------- | | | ---- | | ----__ | ------------------------------------- --- | |-_ | |==========================================| | |- | |==========================================| | _|- | ---- ------------------------------------- |__|- ^ ---- | | ---- ^ | | --- __ | element | |||||__ stopper with | head | --- thermistor | | | | ------ copper nut | |-------------- | | | inlet------------| | | ------------| | pump | | | | | |-------------- ------ The inlet and outlet pipes are .5" copper. I drilled holes in the 1.5" tube for the inlet and outlets ( a tight fit is better ), and soldered them in. The trickiest part was the mounting of the heating element. Rodney used a 1" threaded pipe to copper pipe adaptor. Since the adaptor narrows down too much to allow the element I chose to fit through, I cut off the threaded portion, in effect making a copper nut. I soldered the nut outside of the cap ( with hole drilled in it ), and the element just screws into the end of the pipe. The supplied gasket makes a water tight seal. The element is easily removed for inspection/cleaning, although cleaning is seldom required if a clean water rinse and recirculation is performed after use. I put the thermistor inside of a .125" copper tube, and sealed it in epoxy, being careful not to short it out. The tube is inserted through the stopper so that it sticks into the fluid flow. The Radio Shack thermometer Rodney used is no longer available, so I didn't put that through the stopper too. I use an external digital thermometer instead. I put the whole thing into a wood case, with the inlet and outlet tubes sticking out through drilled holes. I connect to the unit using plastic tubing and band clamps. I built a pump speed control per Rodney's design and it works fine. I have not been able to get his temperature controller to work yet, and am currently using a toggle switch instead. As he recommended, I used a GFI outlet inside my box, from which I get all power. That is in my opinion, a very wise investment. I set the whole system up on two Workmates, one for the RIMS unit, and the other for the mash tun. The whole thing disassembles and stores so I have my garage back when done. Observations: (1) At full flow, the outlet stream will sometimes generate a LOT of foam in the mash tun if not properly directed. (2) Sparging is a snap now. I just add as much water as my mash tun will hold, raise to 165-170 degrees, and recirculate for about 30 minutes. My efficiency is typically 30-31/lb/gal, for 6 row malt ( Stew's Brew malt ), just short of Miller's numbers. For larger quantities of malt ( not as much room for more water ), I plan to drain/replace the sparge water as required. (3) A proper grain grind is just as important as always. (4) The wort runs incredibly clear by the time you are sparging, and no husks or other particles make it into the boiling kettle. (5) If you are contemplating building a RIMS, don't scrimp on the pump or the heating element. (6) You have to be crazy or an obsessive tinkerer to go to this much trouble. I hope this helps somebody ! Cheers, Alan Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Jan 92 18:14:00 EDT From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> Subject: The neoprohibitionists are at it again. I got this off the Libernet, a Libertarian mailing list. In Spokane, Washington, a high school is going to have a breathalizer at their high school dance. Any student found drunk, (by whatever standards they set), will be arrested. Any student refusing to take the test will be sent home in the custody of his or her parents. I know this isn't exactly brewing related, but it scares the beejeebers out of me when I see people making free with our liberties like that. I'm afraid we homebrewers may have to become more politically active in the coming years, much as I dislike that. Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 18:23:24 CST From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: lauter tuns > It only took me about an hour to put a bizzilion holes in the bottom of > one of those buckets. The problem is that you generally drill from the > bottom and that little plastic curley-cues are left on the other side > which, in this case, is the inside of the bucket. The curley-cues tend to > partly block the holes. I took a single-edged razor blade and trimmed > them off. Melting holes (or slots) is another alternative which might > make globs but no curley-cues. I bet it's a lot slower though since you'll > have to heat the knife for each hole/slot. With a power drill it's just > bzzzzzt, bzzzzt, bzzzzt, ... I used a soldering iron for mine. It took about 2.5 hours, and put a melted glob instead of a burr on the other side, which could be scraped off with some trouble, but did not block the flow. the holes are too big to be used without a grain bag, btw... bb Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 18:29:22 CST From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: rye grains > As I write this I'm roasting a pound of unmalted rye in my oven (375' F, 35 > min. so far). The idea is to make the following take off on a stout. > > 7 lb. 2 row Klages > 1 lb. carastan > 1 lb. roasted unmalted rye > 1 lb. flaked rye I used 3-lb malted rye in my last batch, expecting the result to be dark because of it's dark color. The result is the lightest colored beer I've made yet. Haven't tasted it yet. What's carastan? bb Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1992 19:56 EST From: Ken Dobson <MEDKGD%EMUVM1.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Legal status of homebrewing elsewhere In HB #808 (I think), someone said that homebrewing is illegal in Missouri. In TCJOHB, Papazian states that homebrewing is legal everywhere but Arkansas, Oklahoma, and Utah. When I told him that we were fighting for legalization still here in Georgia, he admitted that the 3 states were incorrect and that they should have been Arkansas, Alabama, and Georgia. Now we can read in zymurgy that NJ just attained legalization. ***Just what is the status of legalization across the country???*** Has this question been addressed in prior issues of HBD? We would really like to be disseminating correct information to the Georgia Legislature when we tell them that we are one of only 3 states firmly rooted in the '20s. Ken Dobson Propagandist Covert Hops Society Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #809, 01/24/92