HOMEBREW Digest #829 Fri 21 February 1992

Digest #828 Digest #830

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Weights & Measures (Jim Grady)
  Re: heat yield (electric stove) ("ROBERT W. HOSTETLER")
  questions (marc julian)
  Re: Dry Hopping Sanitation ("Roger Deschner")
  boiling on electric stove (krweiss)
  Re: Berliner Weisse tasting results (Brian Davis)
  Oregon Homebrew Competition and Festival (Ted Manahan)
  summary of previous thread on dry hopping and sanitation (Tony Babinec)
  S. cerevisiae (mvalent)
  Hop growing question (Carl West)
  Wort Chillers (Jack Hack)
  Artificial carbonation time chart (Keith Winter)
  Two Beers from One Mash (from Micah Millspaw) (Bob Jones)
  Dry hopping infections (Darren Evans-Young)
  Electric Stoves (Darren Evans-Young)
  Blowoff vs. trub removal (korz)
  160 British Beers (korz)
  Dryhopping sanitation (korz)
  boiling on an electric stove  (Eric Mintz)
  Who would have thought... (ingr!b11!mspe5!guy)
  Assorted Things (Eric Webster)
  Lemon beer, why not? (Chuck Coronella)
  Responses to reusing yeast (UNDERWOOD)
  Starch ferments ("Michael Westmore")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 6:57:27 EST From: Jim Grady <jimg at hpwald.wal.hp.com> Subject: Weights & Measures Steven Boege asked about weight to volume conversions for some of his recipes. I found the following on pages 221-222 of "The Cook's Companion" by Doris McFerran Townsend. Any brewing cooks may want to check the book out. Anyway, Flour (all purpose): 1 lb. = 4 cups (cake): 1 lb. = 4 + 3/4 cups Honey: 1 lb. = 1 + 1/3 cups Molasses: 12 oz. = 1 + 1/2 cups Sugar(granulated): 1 lb. = 2 cups (brown): 1 lb. = 2 + 1/2 packed cups (superfine): 1 lb. = 2 cups (confectioners): 1 lb. = 3 + 1/2 cups My own experience is that the flour measurement is for SIFTED flour. Flour settles a lot and 4 cups of unsifted flour will be much more than 1 pound. I bought my kitchen scale so that I could weigh my flour (pre-brewing) and now it's great for malt & hops as well! - -- Jim Grady |"Freedom of the press is limited to Internet: jimg at wal.hp.com | those who own one." Phone: (617) 290-3409 | A. J. Liebling Return to table of contents
Date: 20 Feb 92 07:55:00 CST From: "ROBERT W. HOSTETLER" <8220rwh at INDINPLS.NAVY.MIL> Subject: Re: heat yield (electric stove) I've brought 5 gallons of water to boil on an electric stove to boil A LOT of iced down shrimp before. Be very patient, however, it took about half an hour go go from cold tap temperature to a rolling boil. Hmm, more of that shrimp would be a good way to break in my first batch... Bob Hostetler 8220rwh at indy.navy.mil Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 08:52:37 EST From: marc julian <CMSMARC at uga.cc.uga.edu> Subject: questions I have some basic questions for any who choose to answer me... 1. My first batch of beer (pale ale) came out pretty good... except it has a rather weak alcohol content - 2.5% Is this normal..?? if this is weak ...why...?? 2 This same batch of beer is inconsistent... I have a couple bottles that are just great... and then one with a strange aftertaste.. I'm sure I just need to be more sanitary in the bottling process... but what does that mean... how compulsive are you in your sanitization process..?? what lengths does/should one go to.. 3 bottling seems like a giant pain in the ass.. with the beer kit I received a bottling wand was included... I do not understand the advantage of this tool over a plain tube... I didn't have time to play around with it because I was too busy bottling... so what's the use of this thing.. why is this orange cap on the end of the wand... ?? is it just for transferring beer from the fermenter to a secondary...?? 4 use of hops... during boil... end of boil... or both.. why... 5 stout... I would like my next beer to be a stout... I'd appreciate any stout algorithms from the homebrewing population... I'm fairly new at all of this... so any/all information would be great.. lastly - thank you in advanced for any answers provided.. you can mail responses directly to me or send them to the list if you feel so inclined thank you... Marc W. Julian (email - CMSMARC at UGA) Return to table of contents
Date: 20 February 1992 09:37:03 CST From: "Roger Deschner" <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Re: Dry Hopping Sanitation Hops have been used for centuries as a disinfectant. This is one reason they were originally used in beer. RELAX -- this is truly one less thing to worry about. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1992 09:08:27 -0800 From: krweiss at ucdavis.edu Subject: boiling on electric stove Steve Boege asks about getting big pots to boil on an electric stove. A looong time ago I recall someone (was it the sorely missed Pete Soper?) reporting great results by wrapping the pot in a 1/4 - 1/2" blanket of newspaper. The insulation reduced heat loss through the sides of the pot and enabled a relatively low-BTU stove to boil a big pot vigorously. - ------------------------------------------- Ken Weiss krweiss at ucdavis.edu Computing Services 916/752-5554 U.C. Davis 916/752-9154 (fax) Davis, CA 95616 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 08:05:05 pst From: Brian Davis <brian%mbf.uucp at ics.uci.edu> Subject: Re: Berliner Weisse tasting results In HBD 828, Aaron Birenboim said... >One other interesting part of the brewery was that they put >the hops in the MASH! This allows them to use more wheat. How does hopping the mash effect the amount of wheat which can be used? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 10:30:23 pst From: Ted Manahan <tedm at hpcvcbp.cv.hp.com> Subject: Oregon Homebrew Competition and Festival Full-Name: Ted Manahan ANNOUNCING THE TENTH ANNUAL OREGON HOMEBREW COMPETITION AND FESTIVAL On Saturday, May 2, 1992. The Heart of the Valley Homebrewers ("HVH") invites you to participate in their TENTH annual homebrew competition and festival, the longest-running event of its kind in Oregon. The focus of the event will be a judging of homebrewed beer sanctioned by the Home Wine and Beer Trade Association (HWBTA). In addition, the Club will host a festival to promote awareness and knowledge of various beer styles, provide opportunities to share information about the homebrewing craft, and encourage interaction of homebrewers in a social atmosphere. Entries will be received for judging in the nine following categories: 1) Light Lager (includes American and Continental styles) 2) Dark Lager (includes bock) 3) Stout 4) Porter 5) Light Ale (includes Golden) 6) Pale Ale (includes IPA) 7) Dark Ale (includes Brown Ale) 8) Specialty (includes wheat, fruit/herb beers, steam beer) 9) Strong Beer (includes dopplebocks, barleywines, and imperial stouts) ENTRY REQUIREMENTS FOR THE COMPETITION: Please contact Ted Manahan (tedm at hp-pcd.cv.hp.com) for further information. I will send you email with full entry requirements. Ted Manahan tedm at hp-pcd.cv.hp.com 503/750-2856 503/926-6228 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 13:31:00 CST From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) Subject: summary of previous thread on dry hopping and sanitation There was a thread on dry-hopping and sanitizing hops last fall. Short of looking it all up again, I'll attempt to summarize. You can: - late hop during the boil, say in the last 1-2 minutes before end of boil. - hop right after boil, say steep the hops for 20 minutes before chilling. - hop right after the boil in the manner of some big brewers, namely, put some hops in a "hop back" and strain the beer through the hops on the way to the wort chiller. - steam cook or pressure cook the hops before adding them to secondary. I recall George Fix describing this in some detail. If I remember, double the amount of hops you would otherwise use and steam cook them (as you would some vegetables) for 15 (?) minutes before adding to the secondary. (I apologize for not looking up the original, but that's too much like work right now!). - just throw the hops in. There is no question that hops have some bacterial content. The arguments for just throwing the hops in are: - if the yeast took off in the beer, and subsequent handling of the beer is done quietly, the beer is essentially anaerobic. - the beer is low ph. - the beer has some alcohol in it. - the hops themselves have a "preservative" (infection-inhibiting) property (due to humulone content?). The above points do not make for a sure thing, but are simply points in favor of everything working out all right! Relax, don't worry... Return to table of contents
Date: Thu Feb 20 10:10:11 PST 1992 From: mvalent at calstatela.edu Subject: S. cerevisiae First of all, please forgive my inability to refer you back the recent postings to which I am about to refer. The other day, someone was asking about Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Speaking as a grad student in Microbiology, S. cerevisiae is the genus species classification of the yeast. Nearly all of the yeast used for fermentation is this species. When you use a "different" yeast for your beer, it's a differnt strain of S. cerevisiae and not a different species of yeast. Of course other species of yeast are used for fermentation as are some species of bacteria, but the majority of alcohol production is due to our little yeasty friend. By the way, as far as I can tell, Saccharomyces cerevisiae means sugar eating beer fungus. Now, on an entirely different note... Somebody else was wondering if one could boil 5 gallons of water in a 6 gallon pot on an electric stove. My answer is "yes." My friend and I do. It does take quite a long time, though. That's OK... We drink while we wait. New Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 92 15:56:32 EST From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West) Subject: Hop growing question What causes a hop plant to set blossoms? is it: the length of the vine? the height of the plant? the time of the year? the length of the day? the change of temperature? the phase of the moon? the Dow? Nothing I've read addresses this question. The reason it's a question to me is this: I've been growing cuttings from my hop plants through the winter in hopes of getting a head start in the spring. I'm wondering if I might manage to get a small, early harvest before planting time if I treat my plants right. Carl WISL,BM. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1992 12:19 PST From: Jack Hack <JRHINE at HMCVAX.CLAREMONT.EDU> Subject: Wort Chillers Could someone explain the operation of a wort chiller? I'm getting ready to get into homebrewing, but I'm still waiting for my books to arrive. At this point, everything I know has come off r.c.b, HBD and mthvax. A wort chiller seems to be a device to chill wort (duh). Any other operation involved? I have a tube run through a bucket of ice that I use for a still; would that chill the wort satisfactorially? Why (or is) wort chilling desirable? Should the wort be filtered or something before being chilled? Thanks in advance for any possible responses I might get. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 12:58:34 PST From: winter at cirrus.com (Keith Winter) Subject: Artificial carbonation time chart Some time ago, there was a discussion about artificial carbonation and it was mentioned that there is a chart somewhere, or was going to be posted, showing time vs. pressure to attain proper carbonation. I don't remember where this was file was or, if posted, I missed it. I'd appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction. Hopefully, it is not only available somewhere via ftp 'cause I don't have any ftp ability :-(. Thanks for any help. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Keith Winter at Cirrus Logic, Inc. (winter at cirrus.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 1992 13:08 PDT From: Bob Jones <BJONES at NOVA.llnl.gov> Subject: Two Beers from One Mash (from Micah Millspaw) This winter I've been brewing some high gravity beers using the first runnings from the mash only. In the past I did a mash and then built up the gravity with dry malt extract, but this is very expensive (and I'm cheap ). What had made me balk at this first running only method is the waste of grain. So I began making low gravity beers from the second runnings, low grav beer can also be low alcohol beer. This is what I do. After collecting the first run wort I restrike the mash. Before I restrike though I add in a pound or so of specialty grain, I have even added in a couple lbs of corn starch to make a cream ale. This Monday I brewed a Scotch ale (wee heavy) and got a stout for the second run with a lb of roast barley added. The first beer was 1100 OG and the second 1040 OG. Although this makes for two boils in one day you only have to do one mash. So anyone out there doing barleywines or dopplebocks give this a try. Use different yeasts for more variety. Micah Millspaw 2/20/92 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 17:37:06 CST From: Darren Evans-Young <DARREN at UA1VM.UA.EDU> Subject: Dry hopping infections Those of you concerned with infections due to dry hopping should read an article submitted by George Fix in Homebrew Digest #733. I've got two batches being dry hopped right now and I'm relaxing. :-) I have yet to see brewers out there saying "I just dry hopped a batch of beer and had to dump it due to an infection." If it was THAT much of a problem, I expect we would have been hearing about it. Darren Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 17:44:02 CST From: Darren Evans-Young <DARREN at UA1VM.UA.EDU> Subject: Electric Stoves I use a 10 gallon SS pot to boil 5-6 gallons of wort on my electric stove. I have an older model with the real wide heating coils. It gives a good rolling boil, especially when I keep the pot partially covered. Because the pot is so big (diameter), heat dissipation on the stove surface is a problem. I often smell burnt paint while I'm boiling. I just wonder how long my stove is going to last. I'm usually relaxing and enjoying homebrew instead of worrying about it. Darren Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 17:48 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Blowoff vs. trub removal Mike writes: > I've heard rumors that a blowoff method >negates the need for removing the trub, but I find it hard to believe and >have not heard of anyone who has done a side by side comparison. I think the rumor was the other way around: that removing the trub negates the need for blowoff. I'm not sure how the two are related. I faintly remember something about the yeast using the trub for nourishment if there isn't enough oxygen in the wort, but I'd like to read *a lot* more about this before I'm convinced either way. Biologists, Zymurgists: Please comment. > All I know >is that after I started doing this, my beer has improved immensly (the >improvement was better than going to all grain, or switching to liquid >yeast). I will go as far as to say that if you do not use blowoff and >do not make an effort to get rid of a significant quantity trub BEFORE you >pitch the yeast, you will almost certainly have a fusel alcohol problem. I'm not going to flame, rather I'd like to learn more about this. Why do you propose this correlation? Do you have a reference? > I've never used a blowoff method, so I can't make any >rational comments on it (though I do find it fascinating that people claim >that their beer is less harsh using blowoff. I don't buy the hop resin >argument, so maybe it does have something to do with trub...). I don't see why you should be amazed. I used to be a die-hard supporter of the blowoff method, because the smell of the blowoff was so horrid that I figured there was no way I wanted that gunk in my beer. Recently, with the resurgence of this topic (probably it's 10th time around since 1988) I decided to be reasonable and re-evaluate my position. I've since been brewing oversized batches and doing side-by-side brewing blowoff/non- blowoff. The jury is still out -- the beers are either still fermenting or still carbonating. I did, however, take a sniff of a recent blowoff jug and the smell was not unlike normal beer. That led me to re-think what other changes have I made in my technique since those days of bile in the blowoff jug. The changes were: 1. Wyeast in stead of dry yeasts maybe 2. 65F ferments in stead of 70F doubtful 3. full boils (6gal) in stead of partial (2gal) doubtful 4. immersion chiller (leaving SOME trub behind) maybe Well, 1 and 4 could be the big difference. Note, I say SOME trub because I have been experiencing the same phenomenon as Jeorg -- I leave behind what little trub there is in the kettle after chilling, but a lot more appears shortly thereafter in the fermentor. I'll try waiting an hour or so after chilling and see how much trub remains. What we need is some science to solve this problem! Side-by-side tests: 1. trub/noblowoff, 2. notrub/noblowoff, 3. notrub/blowoff, and 4. trub/blowoff. The resulting beers should be chemically analyzed for higher alcohols and anything else that might be produced. The only snag is the cost -- I've already spoken with J.E.Siebels & Sons -- these tests cost BIG BUCKS. Another sad story of science vs. funding. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 18:03 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: 160 British Beers Des-- Although I don't own Line or Harrison, I've read that Line's recipes include many ingredients that we here in the states have great difficulty in purchasing, for example Golden Syrup, Demerara Sugar and Invert Sugar. Line's book *is* available in the states. There are ways around the shortage of certain ingredients, but they take some experimentation (how much Blackstrap Molasses should be substituted for the Demerara?, etc.) I just wanted to warn newcomers, that it's not as easy as it sounds. There is another wrinkle in Line's books: he used very attenuative yeast, therefore, his sweet recipes call for saccharine tablets, for example. Another variable to work out. I plan to buy Line's book, but based upon what I've read over the years in the HBD, I think that a U.S. "translation" would be a big improvement -- a noble undertaking, indeed! Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 18:20 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Dryhopping sanitation JC writes: >When dry hopping, or pouring the wort over beer after chilling, what is the >best way to sanitize the hops to reduce infections? The easiest method of hop sanitation is what I do: NOTHING. I have not been sanitizing my hops for dryhopping and my beers have not developed any infections. I add the whole hops immediately after the krauesen falls, but the beer is still fermenting actively. The active yeast, the low pH and the alcohol all add up to an uninviting environment for infectious beasties. I think the only thing you need to worry about might be mold if the hops were dried improperly. I've also used pellets, but prefer whole hops because they float right up to bottling/kegging time -- the pellets eventually sank and were covered over by pooped-out yeast -- the final effect (the *WONDERFUL* bouquet) was diminished. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 17:48:03 MST From: Eric Mintz <ericm at bach.ftcollinsco.NCR.COM> Subject: boiling on an electric stove You betcha -- *privided* your brewkettle is wide enough to fit over 2 burners. Even so, It may take as long as 20 minutes for the boil to start. On the bright side, because of the slow heating, you are less likely to have a boil over :-) - --Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 15:40:34 CST From: ingr!ingr!b11!mspe5!guy at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Who would have thought... Indeed, miracles never cease. This article appeared in this morning's edition (02-20-92) of the Birmingham Post Herald (reprinted without permission). It was written by Post Herald reporter Nancy Bereckis: Roll out the barrel, local brewery's coming back Local beer lovers' saddest hour occurred in 1907 when city politicians made alcohol illegal and forced the Birmingham Brewing Company to pour 300 barrels of beer into the street. In the 85 years since, the ban on alcohol was lifted and beer lovers could have their fill of Budweiser, Miller, and Strohs. But if they wanted some home-brew like the Birmingham Brewing Co. produced, they had to go to Pensacola Fla., where a small brewery is located, or New Orleans where Abita beer is brewed. Until now. Lee Nicholson, Birmingham native, musician, and brewmaster, is ready to usher in a new era of happy hours for beer lovers by reviving the Birmingham Brewing Co. "Beer is always best when it's brewed in your backyard. And when you've got one of the best water supplies in the US, like Birmingham has, it should be outstanding," Nicholson, 43, said yesterday from the office of his attorney, who is helping him get the brewery off the ground. So far, Nicholson, attorney Ben Hogan, and a slew of investors have purchased the building where the brewery will be located at 3118 Third Ave. South. They've gotten the blessings of the city of Birmingham. And they plan to receive the vats and brewery equipment in April. Hopefully, Nicholson said, the first bottle of Red Mountain Beer will debut at the City Stages music festival, which runs from June 19 to June 21. Nicholson hopes to distribute Red Mountain at local grocery stores, restaurants, and bars. At first, he will brew a red beer, which is like an ale, and a lighter lager. The beer will cost slightly more than domestic varieties and less than imported brews. Nicholson, an accordian and banjo musician who recently played in the Birmingham-Southern College production of "The Grapes of Wrath" first started brewing beer about 10 years ago as a hobby. He operated a store in Homewood for a while, where he sold brewing equipment. And in recent years, he opened a brewery and restaurant in Tampa, Fla. When Nicholson opens in Birmingham, he will become part of a new industry of local beer compaines, called microbreweries. In the past five years, the microbrewery business has grown from around five, which were located in CA, to more than 200 nationwide. Some of the most successful microbreweries are the Abita brewery in New Orleans and the Redhook Ale brewery in Seattle. Nicholson is friends with the Abita brewers and will call on them and other local brewmasters for help. "This is the right time to do something like this in Birmingham because people are starting to realize that beer can be as complex as wine," Nicholson said. To Nicholson, all American domestic beers taste the same because each is brewed the same way. All large breweries make their beer quickly, in large quantities and often use corn and rice to supplement the traditional barley, hops, yeast, and water. Nicholson will only use the traditional ingredients as well as Birmingham's pure water to make his beer that will taste like...well, he's not sure. "It won't tase like the beer I make on a small scale and since there hasn't been a brewery here since 1907, I really don't know exactly what it will taste like," he said. - -- Guy McConnell, getting ready for a first-hand sample Return to table of contents
Date: 20 Feb 92 12:51:40 EST From: Eric Webster <72240.2510 at compuserve.com> Subject: Assorted Things Re: Will an electric stove heat 5 gals of wort? Being cheap, I use two large chili pots (3-4 gals each) to heat my wort, one on each large burner of my electric stove. I then siphon them both into the carboy. This works well, and also allows fun hop recipes - you can mix hop times and varieties by using, say, 1.5 oz Perle (a very underrated hop, IMHO) in one pot for 60 mins, and 1.5 oz Hallertau for 60 min in the other pot, and then mix. There's enough voodo in me to believe that that produces different results than dumping them both in one large pot. Re: brewpubs Went to a new Chicagoland brewpub yesterday - Millrose Brewery (really brewpub) at the intersection of I-90 and Barrington Road north. Excellent beer; Goose Island fronted them some beer till their pipeline is full. The northern star (brown ale) is superb. E-mail me for detailed directions. Query: growing hops It's about that time - I'm planting hops in every friend's back yard who has a fence next month. Any reco's on varieties that will work in Chicago? I grew some Cascades last year, and BOY, were they flowery. Almost too much so. Yikes! Also, anyone know where one can get alpha analysis on a homebrewer's budget? Eric "Damn it, Jim, I'm just a country doctor" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 21:21 MTS From: Chuck Coronella <CORONELLRJDS at CHE.UTAH.EDU> Subject: Lemon beer, why not? Greetings, I took a trip down to Phoenix this past 3-day weekend, and was given a large box of home-grown lemons. Hmmm.... lemon beer, anyone? I've had some success making cherry beer; I've heard of many other fruit beers; why not lemon? Mexican beers are commonly served with a wedge of lemon or lime; why not add the lemons <before> the fermentation? Indeed, why not? So, what do y'all say? Has anyone tried this particular abberation? I'd be interested in any feedback at all; successful and unsuccessful recipes and methods, hypotheses, comments, tell me I'm crazy, whatever. If you'll send comments directly to me, I'll post a summary if there's interest and/or enough feedback. Thanks, Chuck coronellrjds at che.utah.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 20:34:54 PST From: UNDERWOOD at INTEL7.intel.com Subject: Responses to reusing yeast Grettings, Just wanted to say "Thanks" to all who responded to my question of reusing yeast. After going through the responses, and comparing them to Papazian, it seems CP goes more into preparing the starter than where to get the yeast to put in it! To summarize for those folks who have never reused their yeast: 1. Rack your wort into your secondary leaving the slurry behind. 2. Pour some boiled water into the primary to slosh around the slurry. 3 Pour this into a clean, sanitized, mason jar. Cap and shake. 4. Let this settle for 10-30 minutes. The mixture will separate into layers. The white milky layer is the yeast. Spoon or pour off the rest. 5. Add more water, cap, shake, settle, pour/spoon. 6. Do this until what you have left is mostly yeast. 7. Transfer this to another clean sanitized jar and store for up to a month in your refer. Of course, sanitation is important, flaming jar mouths, boiling your jars, lids, etc. Thanks again, hope this may be of help to others. Any errors are probably mine, if this isn't quite right, please correct me as I haven't tried this yet! Cu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 92 23:31:59 EST From: "Michael Westmore" <mwestmor at irus.rri.uwo.ca> Subject: Starch ferments In the process of brewing sake, the yeast is not actually fermenting starch. The starch is being converted by enzymes simultaneously with the fermentation of sugars by the yeast. The key ingredient in making sake is koji (the mold aspergillus oryzae) which produces enzymes that break down the starches in the rice. Michael Westmore Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #829, 02/21/92