HOMEBREW Digest #885 Wed 20 May 1992

Digest #884 Digest #886

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Avoiding Disaster, The BEEB, Sparging (Jack Schmidling)
  Electronic weighing scale (Larry Barello)
  Boston Beer Blah... (Jay Hersh)
  Re: Beechwood Aging (jay marshall 283-5903)
  Mega Batch (HELP) :*) (Warren Kiefer)
  scale up ("Brett Lindenbach")
  Yeast, Pumps, Propane and Festivals (Jeff Copeland)
  Source for maple syrup (Mark J. Easter)
  The post about the Boston Brewing Co. (yoost)
  Homebrewing in France (Mark Hadwen x4449)
  Plugs vs. pellets (James Dipalma)
  Boston Beer Company Law Suit (Greg_Habel)
  pin vs ball-lock (Dan Watson)
  Beechwood Fining (Josh Grosse)
  Glass Airlocks... (Nick Cuccia)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 18 May 92 21:36 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Avoiding Disaster, The BEEB, Sparging To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >From: fjdobner at ihlpb.att.com >I have a rather large ten gallon brewpot that was a gift from my father in which I brew everything including extract and all grain. When I am doing all grain brews however, I must lug this thing with about 5-7 gallons of boiling hot liquid through my kitchen, living room, down a flight of stairs, across my basement to my workshop which is where I have an area cool enough (unfinished part of the basement) to ferment anytype of ale or lager. The most obvious step would be to chill the wort in the kitchen before moving it downstairs. If your are going to ferment in the kettle, all you need is enough gal jugs to hold the wort till you get it cleaned out and moved downstairs. If you have a separate fermenter, you only need one. The aeration it gets being glugged from the jug into the fermenter is also useful for oxyginating the wort prior to pitching. Personally, I would never carry boiling stuff around. You are just asking for trouble. >From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> >I just got off the phone with someone at the BBC. >They said they have to do this in order to protect their trademark, and their product integrity (i.e. if the BBW brews bad beer they don't want it getting confused with the BBC) I suppose I am being sucked into another ... duhhhh But I listen to the BBC every night and just do not see how one confuse their excellent programming with bad beer. >From: Darren Evans-Young <DARREN at ua1vm.ua.edu> >Subject: All-Grain questions >I got no responses to my inquiry about sparge water level in the grain bed. Perhaps you all-grain brewers will send me mail indicating whether your sparge water level is above or below the top of the grain bed..also, if you have any reasons why you choose that method. I'll post a summary of the responses I receive. Now I suppose tomorrow's Digest will be flooded with answers. I assumed there would be no shortage of responses. Here's the word from the World's Greatet Brewery, the home of ARF Generic Ale...... Unless you can spray the sparge water, evenly over the entire surface for the total sparge time, it is most efficient to keep the water level above the grain top. This keeps the whole mess in solution until you are into the dregs. >Sparge water amount: >I'm planning a brew using 15lbs of pale malt. Using 1 qt/lb of grain, I'll be using 4 gallons of water in the mash. Sounds a little stiff. But the important point is that you have a nice creamy "dough-in". It should be about the consistancy of runny oatmeal. I use 3.5 gals with 10 lbs malt. > Do I still sparge with 5 gallons? Less? More? You sparge till the gravity gets below 1.010. Depending on lots of variables you should get 10 to 15 gals of wort from 15 lbs. You can quit anytime you want but you are just throwing away good beer. js Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 07:16:05 PDT From: polstra!larryba at uunet.UU.NET (Larry Barello) Subject: Electronic weighing scale On page C9 of the 5/19 Wall Street Journal there is an ad for an electronic weighing scale. It claims 1gm resolution (no mention of accuracy) and a range > 5lb or 2kg. THe price is $49.00, incl shipping. Sounds like a good deal since nice, spring loaded scales (e.g. braun, etc) cost $20- $30. It has selectable Oz, Gm display and a taring function. The place is: Nam Tai Electonics Ltd. #B101-4185 Still Creek Drive Burnaby, B.C., V5C 6G9 Canada 1-800-661-8831 They take visa. The model number is CR-111 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 11:14:43 EDT From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: Boston Beer Blah... Sorry this was a cc of a message to a local discussion group. BBC is Boston Beer Co. makers of Sam Adams products. BBW is Boston Beer Works, a respectable new brewpub that just opened across the street from Fenway Park. Seems the BBC waited until after the BBW had opened (i.e. purchased signage, did lots of interior decorating with the BBW name, printed stuff like coasters, menus, napkins, etc....) and then decided to sue them over the name (they have trademarked Boston Beer Co and claim the BBW name is too similar, and thus must enforce or lose their trademark). Since everyone else around here knew for months before hand what the name of the place was gonna be, we find it hard to believe that the Sam Adams folks could have missed it. Also since they market their stuff under the Sam Adams name (and few buyers actualy know the real name of the company, i.e. BBC) many are dubious of the claim that the BBW name intereferes or threatens the BBCs product. Most of us feel like the Sam Adams people if they had a gripe should have engaged in discussion up front and come to some reasonable solution. Don't want to take up any more bandwidth, but if you want to call and gripe, the number is 617-522-3400 I think an address is on the side of the bottles, there is none in the phone book and i don't know off hand (well it I think the bottles say The Brewery, Germania St., Boston, Ma... zip=?????) -JaH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 11:19:25 CDT From: jay marshall 283-5903 <marshall at sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov> Subject: Re: Beechwood Aging michael at wupsych.wustl.edu (Michael Biondo) writes: >I know AB makes a big deal of their "Beechwood Aged" process and in fact >have actually seen the large collander-like trollies full of chips that are >inserted into the lagering tanks, and also the special washing machines the >chips are washed in prior to reuse. (I think the chips are reused 5 times) >But until reading the above caption from Jackson (Woo! nice rhyme...), I >never realized that the beechwood was actually used as a fining agent. The A-B Asst. Brewmeister that came to our brewclub meeting told us that the beechwood chips are used to provide more surface area for the yeast. He didn't mention anything about fining. We are going on a personalized tour of the Houston facility sometime soon, so I'll have to ask about that. Jay marshall at sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 1992 10:27:50 MDT From: oopwk at terra.oscs.montana.edu (Warren Kiefer) Subject: Mega Batch (HELP) :*) Howdy All, This is it, my brew buddy and I are ready to take the plunge into some larger batches, we have aquired a nice 40-45 gal. stainless steel vat from a nearby dairy, even has a stirring wand in it !! We have a nice pump to help do the sparge and as of this moment we have four 10 gal. milk cans to be used for something ?? We also have a Creole Cook'r and a 100lb. propane tank. So I would really like some input from all of you on how much grain, hops and so forth we would need for a batch of this size. As of now we are still doing 5 gal. batches, so we use 1.33 qts. of water per lb. of grain, if we use 10 lbs. of grain we mash with approx. 11 qts. and use around 5 gals. of water to sparge with. So if we want to make 30 gals. of beer do we just use 6 times as much of everything ?? Say 60lbs. grain, 20 gals, of mash water and 15 gals. to sparge with ??? So if there is anyone out there who has experience doing the mega batches, could you please help us out, maybe a recipe ??? Any ideas on how to crush the grain ?? We've got some cleaning to do so we probably won't try it for another couple of weeks or so. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated !! I can honestly say I've never REALLY worried about any of the 5 gal. batches before, but I am getting a tad worried about 30 gals. of brew, I'm sure once I see and smell 30 gals. of black as night stout, I WILL relax :*) Yes I can hear it now : Me: How many pounds of Northern Brewer do you have ?? Homebrew Supply : Do you mean pounds or ounces ?? Me: You heard me right, I mean pounds !! Homebrew Supply : Uh, okay, let me check !! Me: Great, you don't happen to have a pallet of grain !! Keep on Brewin' we're gettin there.. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- |~~~|_ "A mug a day Warren R. Kiefer |ale|_) keeps the DOC away !" BITnet: oopwk at mtsunix1 |___| INTERnet: oopwk at terra.oscs.montana.edu MSU Computing Center "All opinions are definitely mine" _____________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: 19 May 1992 11:09:18 -0600 From: "Brett Lindenbach" <Brett_Lindenbach at qms1.life.uiuc.edu> Subject: scale up Subject: Time:11:08 AM OFFICE MEMO scale up Date:5/19/92 js writes>> all the extra stages. I can't believe the yeast cares whether it is in a >> gallon of wort or an ounce. bb replies>I don't agreee with this statement...i.e., If you dilute >yeast too much, they seem to slow down >more than proportionately. While on this topic, I thought I'd bring up my experience. First, I bring up active cultures from single colonies (see my "too-scientific" yeast primer from a few issues ago). I have found that it is best to scale up gradually (ie. single colony --> small culture--> large culture, etc.). The reason is purely from the perspective of avoiding contamination. If you inoculate a medium with 1% active cells, it has a greater chance of outcompeting anything in that other 99% than if you inoculate with only .001%. This is a well established fact that is exploited by people who run fermentations (including non-alcoholic ones). Also consider that most home- brewers do not sterilize, but only sanitize their wort through boiling. Thus, you will be doing your yeast a favor if you give them a numerical advantage over other organisms. The bottom line: SCALING UP PRESERVES CULTURE INTEGRITY. Hope this clears things up. Cheers! -BDL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 10:27:53 -0600 From: copeland at calypso.atmos.colostate.edu (Jeff Copeland) Subject: Yeast, Pumps, Propane and Festivals Got about 8cents to put in: 1) Jeff Mizener was asking about siphoning: I would think some sort of fluid pump for indoor fountains would do the trick I'm not sure what flow rate to use, obviously greater that natural flow but at higher rates one runs the risk of sucking out trub and/or sediment. I just stick the tubes into the hose VERY tight fit, try finding hose with a smaller inner diameter. 2) I'ld second Brian Bliss's comments on yeast population. Qualitatively, I figure yeast grow exponentially limited by the amount of food and alcohol content. When you pitch into starter then a day later into the wort you're introducing orders more yeast cells than pitching directly into the wort. What have the micro-bio's have to say? 3) The problem with cookers indoors (ie: basements) is that propane is heavier than air and if you have a leak or incomplete combustion, the propane will collect on the floor running the risk of explosion (static electric discharge is enough to trigger) hence the need to use them outdoors or with an industrial, NOT a kitchen ventilation hood. Finally 4) Since we've had postings on East and West Coast brew fests Fort Collins, Colorado is having its 3rd Annual Colorado Brewer's Festival Saturday June 27. About 20 Colorado commercial brewers (over 20 if you count Coors and A.B.) will be pouring in the Old Town area, bands and food too. =============================================================================== Jeffrey H Copeland _______ _______ Atmospheric Science / / Colorado State University /______/ Fort Collins, Colorado / / copeland at calypso.atmos.colostate.edu ______/ /_______ =============================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 10:39:39 PDT From: Mark J. Easter <easterm at ccmail.orst.edu> Subject: Source for maple syrup I've been reading with interest the submissions on brewing with maple syrup. Being a former Vermonter, I've come to learn that maple syrup is overpriced in most locations, and you don't *have* to brew with the grade A light amber that is usually offered in the shiny little tins. Our local food cooperative sells grade A dark amber for about $2.40 per pound, which is comparable to buying quality malt extract or extremely good honey. I have seen bulk maple syrup for sale by the pound for similar prices in many food cooperatives and natural food stores. Check it out! Another option is to purchase Canadian maple syrup (from Quebec and Ontario). It is typically less than $2.00 per pound and the quality is fine. Mark Easter easter at ccmail.orst.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 13:10:19 -0500 From: yoost at judy.indstate.edu Subject: The post about the Boston Brewing Co. I am interested in what is going on at The Boston Brewing Co. but the recent post from someone at MIT I feel like I came in in the middle of the conversation. How About a REPOST without ALL the Abreviations. THANKS. John Yoost By the way The manager of operations there informs me that the "Foxy Ladys" serving the pitchers of beer at the competitions ...... One is Jim Koch's personal secretary and another is a Sales Manager. See you guys think he hired them for the show !!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 13:23:09 EDT From: mhadwen at ourgang.Prime.COM (Mark Hadwen x4449) Subject: Homebrewing in France I have a friend in France who has expressed an interest in Home Brewing. Does anyone know of the regulations for Home Brewing in France? Where one can get supplies? and if there are any clubs or organizations for the French Home Brewer? Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 17:17:01 EDT From: dipalma at banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma) Subject: Plugs vs. pellets I am considering switching from pellets to plugs, and I have a couple of questions. I have heard that plugs are superior to pellets with regard to aromatic qualities, that they are close to whole hops in this regard. True or false? What is the relative utilization rate of plugs versus pellets? I know pellets yield a slightly higher utilization rate than whole hops, because they are more resistant to oxidation. Where do plugs fit in this picture? I'll post a summary of any responses I recieve. Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 18:20:08 edt From: Greg_Habel at DGC.ceo.dg.com Subject: Boston Beer Company Law Suit The following address is for the Boston Beer Company. If you wish to send your gripes regarding Boston Beer Company's sueing of the new brew pub in Boston called Boston Beer Works, please do so. I think most of us would agree that a new pub may not survive a law suit by BBC. Boston Beer Company 30 Germania Street Boston, MA 02130 Attn Nancy Parrillo Now its back to my wheat beer! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 16:25:15 MST From: dwatson at as.arizona.edu (Dan Watson) Subject: pin vs ball-lock Greetings fellow Brewophiles! Just wanted to say that I enjoy the discussion here very much, and it is a useful and happy education for me. I recently was given a soft drink type Stainless steel keg (Firestone brand), and want to use it for beer. I noticed that in the beer equipment catalogs they offer kegs and hoses with "ball-lock" and "pin-lock" disconnects. Are the soft-drink disconnects Pin-lock? Does anyone have opions on the relative merits of the two types of disconnects? Thanks for the info, and have a cool one on Me. Dan M. Watson dwatson at crater.as.arizona.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 21:45:47 EDT From: jdg at grex.ann-arbor.mi.us (Josh Grosse) Subject: Beechwood Fining In 883, Michael Biondo asked about using Beechwood slats or chips as fining agents as used by A-B and as Jackson says, it's "an old method still used by some Bavarian Brewers to clarify beer." My understanding (from Miller or Papazian, I can't recall) is that the wood acts as an aid to flocculation. The yeast clings to the wood and flocculation is enhanced. I also understand that metal slats are used in some breweries because the wood is expensive (in time, materials) to sanitize than metal. I can't recall if ionization plays a major role here or not. Likely, it does, as us homebrewers use clarifiers like polyclar that are quite effective as aids to flocculation and settling of yeast cells. - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Josh Grosse jdg at grex.ann-arbor.mi.us Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 20:11:09 -0700 From: Nick Cuccia <cuccia at eris.berkeley.edu> Subject: Glass Airlocks... A perusal through my stack of catalogs shows that glass airlocks can be found at: US Brewing Supply 815 Madison Ave Albany, NY 12208 +1 800 383 9303 P/N 7022 $5.25 Semplex of USA 4159 Thomas Av. North Minneapolis, MN 55412 +1 612 522 0500 $5.98 The Malt Shop 3211 N Highway S Cascade, WI 53011 +1 800 235 0026 P/N T-3 $6.95 Barleymalt and Vine 4 Corey St. West Roxbury, MA 02134 +1 800 66 7026 P/N 103130 $6.95 Great Fermentations of Marin 87 Larkspur St. San Rafael, CA 94901 +1 415 459 2520 $6.95 Bacchus and Barleycorn, Ltd. 8725 Johnson Drive Merriam, KS 66202 +1 913 262 4243 P/N 12080 $6.99 Wine Hobby USA 2306 West Newport Pike Stanton, DE 19804 +1 302 998 8303 $7.50 Hope this helps those of you who are looking for the beasties... - --Nick Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #885, 05/20/92