HOMEBREW Digest #921 Fri 10 July 1992

Digest #920 Digest #922

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  That clove-like aroma (Conn Copas)
  Extracts (JLAWRENCE)
  Re: Getting that clove-like flavor from cloves (Steve Dempsey)
  "mini-mashing" oats questions / Diastatic Malt Syrup (DMS) question (Steve Kennedy  08-Jul-1992 1119)
  Lager yeast not ale (korz)
  Cider and Perry making (Andy Phillips)
  Clove flavor (korz)
  Adjusting specific gravity (Steve Piatz)
  Unrefrigerated kegs of HB (Kevin Yager)
  funny smell and strawberries (jason)
  CO2 tanks and fittings (Daniel Roman)
  Ale yeasts at cold temp (The Rider)
  Recipe:  Really Bitter Dregs(tm) (Douglas DeMers)
  Hunter Mt. Beer festival, New Goldfinch Amber Beer (GC Woods)
  ale yeast ferments to freezing (NOT!) (Jay Hersh)
  Re: Greg's cider question (CCASTELL)
  Silcone-( (Nick Zentena)
  Wit Beers in Texas? (C.R. Saikley)
  San Diego Brewpubs (The Rider)
  Growing Hops (ACS_JAMES)
  maltmill (CCAC-LAD) <wboyle at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
  ReCycling Weizen Yeast (John Devenezia)
  2 or 3 (Russ Gelinas)
  Nut Brown Ale (Richard Stern)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 8 Jul 92 16:39:58 BST From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at lut.ac.uk> Subject: That clove-like aroma We've had a bit of discussion about wiezen beers and their clove aromas recently, so here goes my $0.02 worth. I can spot the influence of S. Delbru... from a distance of about 2 miles. To me it is anything but sweet or estery; on the contrary, I would describe it to an uninitiate as something like rotten tomatoes. Alternative ways of achieving this phenolic sensation are (a) getting a wild yeast infection, or (b) using Vierka lager yeast (not really different from the previous option!). So what gives, am I ultrasensitive or something ? For those looking to culture from a hefeweizen, I can recommend that Falken's brew (from Schaffhausen, in Switzerland) gives a culture with all the desirable (?) characteristics of its parent. - -- Loughborough University of Technology tel : (0509)263171 ext 4164 Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre fax : (0509)610815 Leicestershire LE11 3TU e-mail - (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut G Britain (Internet):C.V.Copas%lut.ac.uk at nsfnet-relay.ac.uk Return to table of contents
Date: 08 Jul 1992 09:55:54 -0600 (MDT) From: JLAWRENCE at UH01.Colorado.EDU Subject: Extracts I have recently come across a number of recipes I'd like to try that use amounts of extracts that are less than a standard can. I've found small cans (1.4 lb), large cans (6.6 lb), and middle sized cans (3.3 lb). The three bears would be proud. However, I have seen receipes that use, for example, a cup or 2 of 1 type of extract, a couple of pounds of another, etc. So, my question is: 1. Does the stuff keep? If I were to open a can and only use half of it, how do I store the rest? I don't have enough equipment to create more than one batch at a time. 2. What's the best way to measure it? Warm it first to get it a bit less (more?) . . . um . . . viscous (right? the discussion on viscosity vs. SG was interesting, but I'm not sure I got it all)? Pour it into a bowl and weigh it on a kitchen scale? Sticky, I would think, but not impossible. Does anybody have an easier way? On another note, I was happily washing bottles last Sunday and allowed the dreaded boilover to occur. This one was a beaut (and what a waste of perfectly good wort :-( ). Does anybody have a good way to clean those burner pans and rings? The SOS pad didn't get it all, and I got real tired of scrubbing. Thanks. - Jane Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 92 12:22:50 EDT From: "John A. Shepherd" <jas8t at uva.pcmail.Virginia.EDU> Hello All, Pat writes: >I enjoy the strong "clove like" flavor of certain weiss beers yet I haven't >been happy with the results of kit weiss beers using the Wyeast wheat strain. >In this forum I have read that S. delbrueckii is what contributes the clove >characteristic and that the Wyeast strain (3056) is 50/50 with something else. >Since I know of no access to pure S. delbrueckii and am not too interested >in plating it out, has anyone out there tried adding cloves to either the >primary or secondary? I had the same complaint last summer so I tried what you propose. I looked up my favorite christmas wassail recipe and found it called for 2 tsp. of whole cloves for 1 gallon. This sounded very excessive so I cut it by 1/8 which still was about 1 tsp./5 gal. I added this to the boil with the malt. Result: Way too much clove flavor for anything except a christmas beer. I would cut this by 1/2 to 1/2 tsp./5 gal. if I was making the ale over again. I've been wanting to make a Berliner-weiss style beer and have been unable to locate pure ( or mixed for that mater) lactobacillus. A Zymurgy recipe used a Stoudt's Wheat culture for this style. The judge's comments included "good lactic nose." Has anyone cultured Stoudt's Wheat yeast and tried this? I can't get Stoudt's Wheat here in Charlottesville, Va and want to know if it worth the drive to seek it out. John Shepherd jas8t at pcmail.virginia.edu Univ. of Virginia Charlottesville, Va Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 92 10:26:38 MST From: Steve Dempsey <steved at longs.lance.colostate.edu> Subject: Re: Getting that clove-like flavor from cloves In HBD #919, ssi!ppc at uunet.uu.net (Patrick P. Clancey) writes: > Subject: Getting that clove-like flavor from cloves > I enjoy the strong "clove like" flavor of certain weiss beers yet I haven't > been happy with the results of kit weiss beers using the Wyeast wheat strain. > ... has anyone out there tried adding cloves to either the primary or > secondary? I've not done this myself, but have tasted the results in competition. The clove-*like* characteristic is a phenol compound produced by the yeast (but you already knew that). It's called clove-like for lack of a better interpretation of the flavor/aroma preceived by your senses. The actual clove spice is something altogether different. The competition entry I tasted was entered in a wheat beer category, supposedly as a weizen style. The description I gave was `potpourri'; it had a sweet spicy character similar to mixed cooking spices. It was nothing like the genuine weizen beer character. If you like spiced ales, use cloves. If you want a traditional weizen with the right flavor/aroma properties, you'll have to use the right yeast. I have used several strains of wheat beer yeasts including the pure S. Delbrueckii sold by the now-defunct MeV labs, and Wyeast's Bavarian Wheat. The pure culture definitely produces a stronger clove character. The Wyeast mixed culture does a fair job if fermented at warmer temperatures, e.g. 73-78F. Still, the ale yeast in the mixed culture tends to take over eventually and repitching results in progressively milder beers. - -------------------------------- Engineering Network Services Steve Dempsey Colorado State University steved at longs.lance.colostate.edu Fort Collins, CO 80523 - -------------------------------- +1 303 491 0630 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 92 09:35:23 PDT From: Steve Kennedy 08-Jul-1992 1119 <kennedy at ranger.enet.dec.com> Subject: "mini-mashing" oats questions / Diastatic Malt Syrup (DMS) question Hi. I'm fairly new to HBD (3 wks) and also to brewing (~1 yr). I am planning on making an oatmeal stout within the next week or two and so the current 'use of oats' discussion is of interest. I'm also an extract brewer, so my knowledge of mashing (etc) at this time, is limited to what I've read in passing in HBD and other related forums. In HBD #919 Russ Wigglesworth writes: > Mini-mashing isn't hard, just take equal amounts of the oats and 2 or 6 > row malt and combine with about 1 qt. of water per lb. Bring this to 155 > degrees for an hour and then rough sparge into your extract through a > colander or grain bag with an amount of water equal to what you mashed > with. By "rough" I mean just a simple rinse, no recirculation or trickle > since you are looking for the oat character and not a significant yeild. > Oats get pretty gummy so when in a 1 to 1 grain bed a stuck sparge is > almost guaranteed. I had heard/read that you need to mash the (rolled) oats, but never heard you needed to mash it with equal amounts of X-row malt -- what are the advantages to doing this over just mashing the oats by itself? is this combination necessary? in trying to determine the amount of other fermentibles to use in the recipe, how much should I expect the mashed oats and/or malt to contribute? responding to the same question re: oats, Brian Bliss writes: > you must mash oatmeal or any other adjuncts before you add them to the boil. > In fact, I won't even add malted specialty grains anymore unless they are > mashed. If I'm trying to do a quick and dirty job and just want to add > a half lb. of crystal malt or so, I'll steep it in 150F water and add an oz. > of amylase enzyme. I tend to start with the specialty grains (ex. crystal malt) in a gallon or so of cold water, slowly bring the water up to boiling, and remove the grains from the water just before the boil (or at ~180 degrees if I happen to have the thermometer handy). My question: how does mashing the specialty grains change their contribution to the brew vs. using the procedure I've described (and usually use)? =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Lastly, I have a question regarding the use/advantages/disadvantages of Diastatic Malt Syrup (DMS): I thought I'd try using this as the basis for a light pale ale and was told that because the DMS still contained active enzymes that I should mash the adjunct pale malt (I was planning to use in the recipe) in the DMS. I guess I'm looking for a confirmation on this and perhaps a little procedural advice. Thanks in advance to all, \steve =-=-=-=-=-= Steve Kennedy Email: kennedy at ranger.enet.dec.com Digital Equipment Corp. -or- kennedy%ranger.dec at decwrl.dec.com 30 Porter Road (LJO2/I4) -or- ...!decwrl!ranger.dec.com!kennedy Littleton, MA 01460 Phone: (508) 486-2718 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 92 12:10 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Lager yeast not ale JS writes: >Based on the accepted fact that ale yeast ferments down to near freezing, I >am curious to know what happens to wort/agar slants of yeast cultures stored >in the fridge. > >Presumably, they would happily ferment to depletion and/or till the tube >exlpodes if it is the screw cap type. Oops! I think you mean lager yeast, don't you? Most ale yeasts generally poop-out at about 50F and would probably expire as the temp approaches 32F. You're right about them fermenting till depletion, though. What's wrong with that? What you're trying to do, presumably, is to hold on to some dormant yeast, so you put them at a low temp so that they are relatively inactive. Autolysis is the great fear here, where the yeast secrete a chemical that breaks down the cell walls of their surrounding brothers/sisters. Then, they cannibalize. Ick! Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 92 18:18 GMT From: Andy Phillips <PHILLIPSA at LARS.AFRC.AC.UK> Subject: Cider and Perry making Greg asks for advice for making cider and perry (pear cider). I've only made the stuff from kits (it was 'orrible); however, the Institute where I work was founded as the National Fruit and Cider Research Institute, although it now specializes in agricultural research (I'm a molecular biologist working on Arabidopsis thaliana, as un-agricultural a weed as you're likely to meet). However, the library still has cider-making books, and I've done a bit of reading. The traditional way of making farmhouse (ie. homebrew) cider is simply to crush apples, press out the juice and allow it to ferment without any additions, even yeast. Fermentation relies on infection by wild yeasts from the air. You could try this, but I wouldn't recommend it - there is no guarantee that a suitable wild yeast will fall from the heavens, and there will be plenty of other bugs waiting their chance to turn your apple juice into cider vinegar. Your best bet is to try to sanitize the apple juice in some way, and then add a starter of pure yeast. You may have trouble finding suitable apples - in the West of England, there are special apple varieties of cider apple. These are small and very tart to taste - inedible, in fact. You may be able to mix cooking apples (Bramleys?) with a smaller proportion of dessert apples. The apples should be ripe enough for the skin to break if you stick your thumb in hard. The cider brewery next door seems to leave the barrels of apples and pears outside until they get _really_ squishy (and smelly). Roughly crush the apples (eg in a barrel with a wooden pole) and leave them to oxidise (this supposedly allows the tannins to cross-link with proteins which then fall out in the fermentation vat). Extract the juice using a press. The SG should be 1.045-1.065. You may then try partly to sterilize in some way. Don't try to sterilize by heating: this imparts a cooked taste to the cider. You could try a very small quantity of sodium metabisulphite for a few hours (see recipes for wine-making from fruit). Pitch the yeast (and I would add some yeast nutrient) and ferment for about 2-4 weeks. This can be drunk immediately ("rough cider") or racked into secondary for up to 3 months. Don't worry about the clarity: it's unlikely to drop clear, due to all the pectins. If you're really confident about your sterilization, cider matures well in bottle. One way of cutting down on contamination would be to boil a small quantity of the juice and make up a starter with the yeast - this large inoculum should compete out any unwanted strains, and the cooked taste from the small volume of starter won't be noticeable. A recipe for the best cider ("Nobs' cider") which I found goes: 1 gall apple juice (ie 1.25 US Galls) 0.75lb chopped muscatel raisins 0.5oz root ginger (crushed) 2" stick of cinnamon Juice of 1 orange This would turn out more like an apple wine, probably, and I would use a wine yeast if you can't get hold of any unpasteurized cider to culture from. Good brewing Andy "Hope you can afford the postage, Jack" Phillips Long Ashton Research Institute, Bristol, UK Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 92 12:17 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Clove flavor Pat writes: >I enjoy the strong "clove like" flavor of certain weiss beers yet I haven't >been happy with the results of kit weiss beers using the Wyeast wheat strain. I've successfully been able to get very clovey aromas/flavors from Munton & Fison's Muntona yeast (included in their ale kits and may be available separately). At 70F, you'll get a LOT of clove character. I too, did not get much cloveyness from Wyeast #3056. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 92 12:24:08 CDT From: piatz at fig.cray.com (Steve Piatz) Subject: Adjusting specific gravity I recently had a need to determine the change in specific gravity due to dilution with addition water. I ended up boiling my imperial stout down to 4.75 gallons while getting my 60 minute boil after adding the hops. I decided not to dilute until I went to the secondary and needed to adjust my specific gravity measured in the primary. TNCJOHB, page 381 gives some tables for adjusting the specific gravity. Unfortunately, they didn't come close to the 1.110 gravity I had. So I decided to figure out the corrections using the following (I hope my memory of physics classes from long ago is correct): OG = the original gravity FG = the final gravity dvp = the additional water as a percent (5% == 0.05) FG = (OG + dvp) / (1.0 + dvp) Using the above, the following program will produce a simple adjustment table ==================== cut here =================== #include <stdio.h> #define NUM_PERCENT 10 /* number of columns */ #define NUM_GRAVITY 30 /* number of rows */ #define PERCENT_STEP 0.05 /* percentage per column */ #define GRAVITY_STEP 0.005 /* gravity per row */ #define INITIAL_GRAVITY 1.010 /* gravity for first row */ #define INITIAL_PERCENT PERCENT_STEP /* percentage for first column */ main () { int i; int j; float og, fg; float dv; float dvp; printf (" | Dilution By\n"); printf (" O.G. | "); for (j = 0; j < NUM_PERCENT; j++) printf (" %3.0f%% ", 100.0 * PERCENT_STEP * (1 + j)); printf ("\n"); printf ("-------|-"); for (j = 0; j < NUM_PERCENT; j++) printf ("-------"); printf ("\n"); og = INITIAL_GRAVITY - GRAVITY_STEP; for (i = 0; i < NUM_GRAVITY; i++) { og += GRAVITY_STEP; printf ("%6.3f | ", og); dvp = INITIAL_PERCENT - PERCENT_STEP; for (j = 0; j < NUM_PERCENT; j++) { dvp += PERCENT_STEP; fg = (og + dvp) / (1.0 + dvp); printf ("%6.3f ", fg); } printf ("\n"); } exit (); } ====================== cut here ====================== The resulting table is | Dilution By O.G. | 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40% 45% 50% - -------|----------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.010 | 1.010 1.009 1.009 1.008 1.008 1.008 1.007 1.007 1.007 1.007 1.015 | 1.014 1.014 1.013 1.012 1.012 1.012 1.011 1.011 1.010 1.010 1.020 | 1.019 1.018 1.017 1.017 1.016 1.015 1.015 1.014 1.014 1.013 1.025 | 1.024 1.023 1.022 1.021 1.020 1.019 1.019 1.018 1.017 1.017 1.030 | 1.029 1.027 1.026 1.025 1.024 1.023 1.022 1.021 1.021 1.020 1.035 | 1.033 1.032 1.030 1.029 1.028 1.027 1.026 1.025 1.024 1.023 1.040 | 1.038 1.036 1.035 1.033 1.032 1.031 1.030 1.029 1.028 1.027 1.045 | 1.043 1.041 1.039 1.037 1.036 1.035 1.033 1.032 1.031 1.030 1.050 | 1.048 1.045 1.043 1.042 1.040 1.038 1.037 1.036 1.034 1.033 1.055 | 1.052 1.050 1.048 1.046 1.044 1.042 1.041 1.039 1.038 1.037 1.060 | 1.057 1.055 1.052 1.050 1.048 1.046 1.044 1.043 1.041 1.040 1.065 | 1.062 1.059 1.057 1.054 1.052 1.050 1.048 1.046 1.045 1.043 1.070 | 1.067 1.064 1.061 1.058 1.056 1.054 1.052 1.050 1.048 1.047 1.075 | 1.071 1.068 1.065 1.062 1.060 1.058 1.056 1.054 1.052 1.050 1.080 | 1.076 1.073 1.070 1.067 1.064 1.062 1.059 1.057 1.055 1.053 1.085 | 1.081 1.077 1.074 1.071 1.068 1.065 1.063 1.061 1.059 1.057 1.090 | 1.086 1.082 1.078 1.075 1.072 1.069 1.067 1.064 1.062 1.060 1.095 | 1.090 1.086 1.083 1.079 1.076 1.073 1.070 1.068 1.066 1.063 1.100 | 1.095 1.091 1.087 1.083 1.080 1.077 1.074 1.071 1.069 1.067 1.105 | 1.100 1.095 1.091 1.087 1.084 1.081 1.078 1.075 1.072 1.070 1.110 | 1.105 1.100 1.096 1.092 1.088 1.085 1.081 1.079 1.076 1.073 1.115 | 1.110 1.105 1.100 1.096 1.092 1.088 1.085 1.082 1.079 1.077 1.120 | 1.114 1.109 1.104 1.100 1.096 1.092 1.089 1.086 1.083 1.080 1.125 | 1.119 1.114 1.109 1.104 1.100 1.096 1.093 1.089 1.086 1.083 1.130 | 1.124 1.118 1.113 1.108 1.104 1.100 1.096 1.093 1.090 1.087 1.135 | 1.129 1.123 1.117 1.112 1.108 1.104 1.100 1.096 1.093 1.090 1.140 | 1.133 1.127 1.122 1.117 1.112 1.108 1.104 1.100 1.097 1.093 1.145 | 1.138 1.132 1.126 1.121 1.116 1.112 1.107 1.104 1.100 1.097 1.150 | 1.143 1.136 1.130 1.125 1.120 1.115 1.111 1.107 1.103 1.100 1.155 | 1.148 1.141 1.135 1.129 1.124 1.119 1.115 1.111 1.107 1.103 Steve Piatz piatz at cray.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1992 13:28:44 -0400 From: ukcy at sunyit.edu (Kevin Yager) Subject: Unrefrigerated kegs of HB On Jul 7, 13:44, korz at iepubj.att.com wrote: } Brian writes: } > 5)After tapping how long will the beer stay good? Can you fill the keg } >with co2 to make it last longer?(Oh, I forgot to mention I don't have the } >facilitys to keep it cold after tapping.) } } You had better find a way to keep it cold. You also had better buy a CO2 } tank and regulator (it sounds like you don't have one). Refrigerated } (if you have good sanitation) your kegged beer could stay good for a year. } Unrefrigerated, well, I wouldn't recommend it. } } > Ok, here is how I plan to cool it. I bought a 20 qt. cooler and 25 ft } >of stainless steel tubing in a coil that sits inside the cooler. } > The beer comes from the keg thru a plastic tube to the cooler into a } >coupler shank into the stainless steel tubing into a faucet and shank set. } >Wala! beer! } > I figure 5 min after I place Ice on the coil I should have cold brew in } >the mug. I'll use silcon to prevent leakage were I drill out the cooler. } > I have ordered most of the equipment for this project for under $100.00 } >>From SuperiorProducts out of St.Paul Minn.(no affiliation) } } A used chest freezer with a Hunter Airstat thermostat is the best way to go. } I suspect you will have trouble with carbonation since the solubility of } CO2 varies greatly with temperature. I've tried dispensing cool beer through } a jockeybox (what you described) and had a heck of a time getting the CO2 } to stay in the beer. } Al. }-- End of excerpt from korz at iepubj.att.com Can anyone add to Al's observations on this topic. I plan to start kegging with my next batch of beer. I don't have a place to keep kegs cold. I do have a small dorm sized refrigerator which I plan to run some tubing through. Effectively the same as a "jockeybox". The kegs will be kept in my cellar at around 65 deg f. I have always thought that the beer would keep for a time as long as it was not in contact with air. Kevin Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 92 09:56:37 -0700 From: jason at beamlab.ps.uci.edu Subject: funny smell and strawberries A couple of questions: My friend and I made a quicky extract/specialty grain batch on Friday. We put 1/2 pound of ground chocolate grains in one of my girlfriends old white nylons and began to heat the water to about 170 F at about 150 F or a little less we noticed this awful plastic like smell that seemed very wrong and toxic. It eventually went away (we didn't just get used to the smell we had others come in and smell) when the water got close to 170 F. The smell seemed to come from the water and not the nylons (tested by pulling the nylons out of the water and sticking out noses on them). Does this type of grain usually produce a disturbing odor in the process of heating? The grains were a few months old. Does this matter? ALSO: When it comes time to bottle, I only want to bottle 3/4 of the batch. I would like to add strawberries to the remaining 1/4. Question: Do you think I should just leave the 1/4 in the fermenter along with the trub and settlement and just add the strawberries to this? Or Should I rack the 1/4 to a seperate container and then add the stawberries? (Will there be enough yeast in suspension?) I have some pectic enzyme--should I use any of this? Comments? Ayudame, lo necesito. Jayscum P.S. I dropped a hop pellet in a can of bud and voila-Budweiser with tast Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 92 13:47:56 EDT From: roman at tix.timeplex.com (Daniel Roman) Subject: CO2 tanks and fittings I recently inherited a couple of soda kegs (ball lock) which are in good shape. I called a couple of local soda distributors about CO2 tanks and hoses and they either did not want to deal with me or were charging $85 for just the 5 lb tank unfilled. So, a couple of questions: - Is a 5 lb tank adequate? I wounldn't be dealing with more than two kegs at a time. They are 5 gal. kegs. - Can someone suggest any mail order or sources of used tanks, especially if someplace has experience with homebrewers and their particular needs. (Now all I have to do is convince my wife that we don't need the shelves in the fridge and that two kegs and a CO2 tank won't take up that much room). Refridgerators are expensive. - -- ______________________________________________________________________ Dan Roman | /// Internet: roman_d at timeplex.com Timeplex Inc. | \\\/// GEnie: D.ROMAN1 Woodcliff Lake, NJ | \XX/ Only AMIGA! Homebrew is better brew. ====================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1992 11:59:27 -0800 From: mfetzer at ucsd.edu (The Rider) Subject: Ale yeasts at cold temp Jack writes: Ale yeast..... Based on the accepted fact that ale yeast ferments down to near freezing, I am curious to know what happens to wort/agar slants of yeast cultures stored in the fridge. Presumably, they would happily ferment to depletion and/or till the tube exlpodes if it is the screw cap type. Seems like in the best of cases, one would end up with tired out old yeast if it was stored for more that a couple of weeks. Say what? Did you mean Lager yeast here, or is there something I'm not aware of? In any case, we have taken yeast cake from the bottom of primary ferment, put it in 12 ounce bottles at about a 50/50 yeast to semi-fermented wort ratio, and stored these in the fridge for later use. The longest we ever kept one of these may have been around 6 weeks, but it certainly took off like a banshee. Only in one instance did the yeast not take off after being stored in such a manner, and that was stored substantially longer, I believe. As far as tired old yeast goes, well, how would the yeast you're proposing to freeze be worse off than something you find at the bottom of a bottle of Sierra Nevada? In either case, you need to allow the yeast to build up its cell walls again before you expect it to go to work for you. :) Mike - -- Michael Fetzer Internet: mfetzer at ucsd.edu uucp: ...!ucsd!mfetzer Bitnet: FETZERM at SDSC HEPnet/SPAN: SDSC::FETZERM or 27.1::FETZERM Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 92 13:42 PDT From: dougd at uts.amdahl.com (Douglas DeMers) Subject: Recipe: Really Bitter Dregs(tm) Here's a recipe for a brew I've particularly liked. It's somewhat in the style of a Brown Porter, although really a little too hoppy for that style. The origins of this brew are somewhat amusing (IMO) - Martin Lodahl and I were lamenting (electronically) about our respective jobs; the condition of the world, etc., and I recalled the phrase "Oh, bitter dregs..." from the song. Some electronic musing over "bitter dregs" ensued, and the rest, as they say, is history. The recipe is toned down from the original hopping rate, but I believe even a hop-head will enjoy this brew. Tasty stuff, that! Really Bitter Dregs(tm) by invitation only. send your resume to the Really Bitter Dregs selection committee ;-) Ingredients - 6 lbs 2-row pale malt 3 lbs Munich Malt 16 oz black patent malt 4 oz Crystal Malt (80L) 12 AAU (~1.0 oz at 11.6) Centennial hops (bittering) (Oops!) 9.5 AAU (~0.75 oz at 12.6) Chinook hops (bittering) (Oops!) 1/2 oz Cascades (steep) 1 oz Kent Goldings (dry hop at rack to secondary) Wyeast 1084 (Irish Ale) 1.5 qt gyle (or 1/2 cup corn sugar) (priming) Process - All brewing water pre-boiled and decanted from sediment. Mash water: 11 qts at 140F Mash-in: 3 min at 135F, pH 5.0 Protein rest: none Conversion: 30 minutes at 145F (step infusion) (See Notes) 45 minutes at 155F (step infusion) Mash-out: 5 min at 170F (See Notes) Sparge: 6 gal, pH ???, 170F (Increased from 5 gallons) Boil: 90 min. Centennial addition at 30 minutes into boil, Chinook at 60 minutes; Cascades added and steeped 45 minutes at end of boil (while chilling). Dry hop at rack to secondary. Initial runnings 070 - final runnings 020. OG: ~046. FG: ~015. Notes: I overshot temperature on initial conversion ("cajun cookers" have their disadvantages!) but dropped back into range with a couple minutes in a water bath. No doubt affected extraction efficiency. Next time, I'll use the vernier rocket (hot plate) instead of the main thrusters! Forgot to raise to Mash-out temp - had to dump back from lauten tun into the boiler. Grrrrrr..... Additional 1 gallon of sparge was prepared when gravity of runnings was so high. Even after an addition gallon of sparge, the runnings were high, IMO. The little red worms in the compost heap were happy, though! Next time, I'll use more gypsum to bring the ph down to 5.7! About the hops. When it came time to add bittering hops, I went to the freezer, and grabbed Centennial instead of Chinook. (What can I say? They both start with `C'. Honest, I only had consumed about 3/4 of a homebrew!) I realized my mistake later when rooting around for the Cascades. So, with still 30 minutes left in the boil, I added some Chinook for the last 30 minutes. The Cascades were steeped longer than intended. The boil ended just at dinner time, so I put the hops in and left them while we ate. Midway through dinner, I realized that I hadn't sterilized the chiller, so that added another 30 minutes to the steep. Chilled to pitch temperature, strained into the primary carboy, aerated, and pitched the yeast (which was at high krausen). I checked an hour later, and there was positive outflow through the blowoff tube. Racked to secondary a week later, with the Golding dry-hopped at that time. (Put the hops into the secondary and racked onto them.) Bottled 3.5 weeks later primed with 1.5 quarts of gyle. Return to table of contents
Date: 8 Jul 92 17:05:33 EDT (Wed) From: GC Woods <gcw at garage.att.com> Subject: Hunter Mt. Beer festival, New Goldfinch Amber Beer Does anyone have any information regarding the Internation Beer Festival being held at Hunter Mountain, NY this weekend? Also I read an article about a new brew being offered in NJ - Goldfinch Amber Beer - by the Goldfinch Brewing Company in Mt. Laurel. The picture shows the beer in a 12oz bottle, so I am assuming it must be a contract beer. Has anyone tried this beer or know who brews it? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 92 17:44:27 EDT From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: ale yeast ferments to freezing (NOT!) Jack sez: > Ale yeast..... Based on the accepted fact that ale yeast ferments down to near freezing, I am curious to know what happens to wort/agar slants of yeast cultures stored in the fridge. What ale yeast is this?? Did you mean lager yeast. All the Ale yeasts I have ever used tend to floculate out and go dormant when I drop them to cold temperatures (like say below 45F), in fact I, and many many brewers commerical and home, rely on this behavior to stop fermentation and clarify the beer, it even has a technical name for it, called cold conditioning. Care to enlighten us??? JaH - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 92 16:48 From: sherpa2!CCASTELL.ELDEC%mailsrv2 at sunup.West.Sun.COM (CCASTELL) Subject: Re: Greg's cider question In HBD 919, Greg asked: > Can anyone out there in HBD-land provide me with a good recipe for apple > or pear cider. What are the pitfalls? The most recent issue of Zymurgy has an informative article on making cider. I've learned quite a lot from it, and have 5 gallons of a new recipe bubbling away in my garage right now! :-) The Cat's Meow II also has some recipes that look like they're on the right track. For what it's worth, the following recipe won the AHA cider competition this year: Hard Core XXX Cider 3 gallons cider (allegedly made from Johnagolds) 6 Campden tablets 3 oz. lactose 12 oz. can frozen concentrated Seneca Granny Smith apple juice 16 oz. can frozen concentrated TreeTop apple juice Vintner's Choice Pasteur Champagne yeast Pour cider into 3 gallon carboy with 6 crushed Campden tablets. Add yeast after two days. Ferment for three weeks at approximately 68 degrees. Oops! That's a little too dry. Rack to keg, adding three ounces lactose. Force carbonate for two weeks. Damn! Still doesn't taste quite right. Add some apple juice concentrate to get an apple taste. Filter with 0.5 micron filter and force recarbonate. Bottle using counter-pressure bottle filler. Comments: The most important thing I've found is getting fresh juice (freshness shouldn't be a problem if you're pressing your own) that tastes like apples. This is sometimes a little harder than it might sound. In Washington, the majority of apples grown are "eating" apples, rather than juice or cooking apples. The Johnagold apple juice I used didn't have sufficient "apple taste", so after the sugar had fermented away, there wasn't much taste left. I put some apple taste in with the concentrates. (The current batch I'm making uses juice from Red Delicious and Granny Smith apples, but still doesn't have a strong apple taste, even before fermenting.) I'm told that blends of different types of apples work better than juice from a single type. You might want to keep on eye (taste bud?) on the fermentation and stop it before it completes, or use a different type of yeast that won't take it so far. Mine was bone dry after three weeks, so I sweetened it up some with the lactose. Above all, relax, have a homebrew, and don't worry about it. Chances are, it will turn out great. Good luck Charles Castellow Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1992 17:17:58 -0400 From: Nick Zentena <zen%hophead at canrem.com> Subject: Silcone-( Well I decided to make some phone calls today. Checked the yellow pages and came up with a local caulking supplier. He called his suppilers[I think DOW and another company] who stated that none of thier products were foodgrade. Seems they have some nasties in the base. Guess I'll have to find another idea-( Nick ***************************************************************************** I drink Beer I don't collect cute bottles! zen%hophead at canrem.com ***************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 92 14:29:11 PDT From: grumpy!cr at uunet.UU.NET (C.R. Saikley) Subject: Wit Beers in Texas? There is an interesting story behind how Belgian beer came to be brewed in Texas, where the Celis brewery in Austin has recently come to market with its products. Mr. Celis formerly brewed in Belgium, and was too successful for his own good. In previous times, the eastern part of Brabant province was a major brewing center. It is here that we find the town of Hoegaarden (pronounced who-garden), whose brewing heritage goes back at least as far as the 1300's, and probably farther. Hoegaarden was known for its Wit beers. Belgian Wit beers are light refreshing brews made with about 50% unmalted wheat and 50% malted barley. Sometimes a small portion of raw oats is added. The beers are very pale, and given a milky appearance by a highly non-flocculant yeast strain. They are very lightly hopped, but often spiced with coriander and orange peels. They are popular summer drinks. The usual market forces and two world wars caused a decline in the importance of this region as a brewing center. Smaller breweries were closing, consumption of mass marketed Pils was on the rise and by the mid 1950's, the last brewer of Wit beers was defunct. The style appeared to be extinct. Pieter Celis had lived near an old brewery that produced Wit beers, and felt that the style could be revived. Acting on that idea, he purchased equipment from a defunct brewery, and in 1966 his De Kluis brewery started making Hoegaarden Wit beer. Much to Celis' surprise, the beer was extremely popular, especially among younger drinkers. Soon he was unable to keep up with demand and the so the brewery was expanded. In order to finance the expansion, Celis sought an investor to take on as a partner. The two owned equal shares of the brewery with Celis being the more active partner. A period of phenomenal growth ensued. Wit beers were becoming more and more popular, and Celis was doubling his production on an annual basis. The growth rate proved to be too extreme, and it was hard to make ends meet. This may be hard to picture for those not close to the business world, but too much growth places excessive strain on a business' resources. For example, if this year's malt bill is twice as much as last year's, and the money available to pay this year's bills is based on last year's production, then it's tough to cover expenses. This is exactly what happened, and the De Kluis brewery was unable to make payments to their supplier of malt. Mr. Celis made a deal with the head of the malthouse whereby the maltster would get shares of the brewery instead of cash payments. What Celis didn't know was that the maltster (appropriately named Mr. Wolf) had ties to brewing giant Interbrew. It seems that the little brewery had been too successful in reviving a style, and had attracted the attention of the big guys. Soon Mr. Wolf's shares were in Interbrew's hands, and they were busy courting De Kluis' investment partner as well. When the partner sold out, Mr. Celis found himself to be the minority shareholder in the brewery he founded. Interbrew felt they no longer needed Celis around, and squeezed him out of the business. His success was his own downfall. The revival of Wit beers has continued, and they are very popular in cafes all over Belgium today. Even cafes with very modest beer selections typically offer a Wit beer. As a result, many other breweries around the country have capitalized on this and started brewing their own Wits. It has become a very trendy style of beer, and is now eschewed by hard core beer fans as no longer being the noble beverage it once was. Readers in Oregon may see a similarity to the Widmer Hefeweizen phenomenon. Meanwhile, Mr. Celis decided that he'd had enough of his battles with Interbrew. Like so many Europeans before him, he has sought refuge in the US. He's brewing in Austin and his beers are available there. They will soon become available in California, and other selected markets. Let's hope he's not *too* successful this time. Cheers, CR Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1992 03:56:57 -0800 From: mfetzer at ucsd.edu (The Rider) Subject: San Diego Brewpubs Oh oh oh me! me! me! Finally a topic I'm an expert on... :*) >On another topic, I will be traveling to San Diego soon and would like up-to- date info on brewpubs and bars with great tap beer. I searched through the old digests and came up with these brewpubs: >Pacific Beach Brewhouse >La Jolla Brewing Co. >Callahan's >Old Columbia Brewing Co. >Mission Brewery PB: Nice atmosphere, but lately the beer is lousy. I've stopped going there, since I was sorely disappointed with things last time. It's close to the beach, I'd recommend stopping by for a pint of Stout, and *do* let me know if they improved things. LJB: My absolute favorite in town. Great atmosphere (not many yuppies) Excellent porter, and a wonderful happy hour 4-6 M-F, $5 pitchers! Great food. Callanhans: a bit like a dungeon... not impressed with their bitters (but then I'm racist when it comes to beer... I'm into the black stuff, which they were out of) They serve non micro brewed beers there, too, just in case you can't handle their own. Old Columbia: Haven't been there in a long time, I must admit. Yuppie city, since it's close to downtown. Bring a white shirt and red tie. Their beers: generally a light, an amber, and a dark. I'v never been impressed with the light and dark, but the amber is quite good. Mission Brewery: went bankrupt before they ever opened. Nice building, tho. Others you didn't mention: Brewskie's: Again, yuppie at hell. It's around 4th and G, but don't quote me. Beers are ok, their stout is nice. They also have a happy hour on about the same terms as LJB. The Red Kettle? I think that's what it's called, in Encinitas. Well, they were out of everything the day I went there, and I haven't gone back. They do have Anchor (I think!) Porter on tap, so that saved the day. Other than that, hm... somehow it was lacking atmosphere, but I have friends that quite like the place and were surprised the day I went, at how different things are from normal. Overall, LJB takes the cake. Be there any Friday around 5, find me, and I'll buy you a beer. :) I'm the guy at the table with the 3 pitchers of porter... Seriously... email me if you make it down here on the weekend, we're always down there, and I'd like to meet some of these HBD folk. Mike - -- Michael Fetzer Internet: mfetzer at ucsd.edu uucp: ...!ucsd!mfetzer Bitnet: FETZERM at SDSC HEPnet/SPAN: SDSC::FETZERM or 27.1::FETZERM Return to table of contents
Date: 09 Jul 1992 09:08:17 -0500 (EST) From: ACS_JAMES at VAX1.ACS.JMU.EDU Subject: Growing Hops While I haven't started brewing yet, I accepted a hops plant from a friend of mine to see how it would grow on my farm. I planted it in a partially shaded area along a creek and it is growing like crazy. This is it third year. Last year it produced a few hops. The plant was described as a "common hops." Now for a few questions: 1. what is common hops? 2. can common hops be used for brewing or other purposes? 3. the plant has been getting a white mold on some of its leaves, is this caused by the damp, shaded location? 4. do I need to be concerned about the mold? If so, can it be treated? Thanks for any information you care to share. James W. Wilson, Manager Internet acs_james at vax1.acs.jmu.edu Media Technology Lab Bitnet acs_james at jmuvax James Madison University Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 9:28:19 EDT From: William Boyle (CCAC-LAD) <wboyle at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: maltmill If it is free is is for me, sorry about this, but I'm not proud. B^2 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 08:46:01 -0500 From: devenzia at euler.jsc.nasa.gov (John Devenezia) Subject: ReCycling Weizen Yeast I brewed an (IMHO) excellent wheat beer about three months ago using a Wyeast Wiezen culture. It came out so good that I've done a Rasberry Wheat and am about to do a DunkleWeisse. I thought it would be a good thing to to re-use the yeast from my first batch (in the form of bottle leavings) on my next couple of wheat beers. As I was culturing last night (4 tablespoons dried wheat malt extract, 1 pint of water; boiled) I got to thinking, does one of the strains take dominence in the bottle? As everyone know the Wyeast Weizen product is actually a mix of two yeast strains. If one strain (say the noraml Ale strain) survives the dormacy period better will my beer be un-balanced. So my question is; Has anyone successfully re-used the Wyeast _Weizen_ strain? Brew on Dude, John D. devenzia at euler.jsc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1992 10:15:38 -0400 (EDT) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: 2 or 3 An easy way to remember which keg fitting (2 pins or 3 pins) goes with which dip tube (co2 or liquid) is to think that the beer tube is "more important", and so has a higher number of pins. Russ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 92 8:37:44 MDT From: Richard Stern <rstern at col.hp.com> Subject: Nut Brown Ale Does anyone have a recipe for a Nut Brown Ale that is similar to Samual Smith's Nut Brown? All-grain preferred, but if you have an extract that would be OK. Thanks, Richard Stern rstern at col.hp.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #921, 07/10/92