HOMEBREW Digest #952 Fri 21 August 1992

Digest #951 Digest #953

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Returning to the Good Ol' Days (Alan Edwards)
  Heavyside Ale recipe (Guy Derose)
  headspace  (Carl West)
  Classified Section (Jack Schmidling)
  Some old root beer receipts, sassafrass (Paul dArmond)
  CO2 purity (Jim Griggers)
  Foxx Equipment, malt (Jim Griggers)
  BEER CONCENTRATE (Jack Schmidling)
  Auto Reply from Watch_Mail for 18-AUG-1992 16:48 to 1-SEP-1992 00:00 (Dick Schoeller - ZKO2-2/M21 - DTN 381-2965  19-Aug-1992 0348)
  UK Grain Suppliers ("ONREUR::JSAMPSON")
  getting labels to stick (and come off easilly)  (aew)
  Missed one line on proposed all grain process (smanastasi)
  Priming (JEFF)
  Off to Hamburg... (Karl F. Bloss)
  all grain stuff (Russ Gelinas)
  Assorted Comments (Bob Konigsberg)
  Birmingham Brewing Co. (Guy D. McConnell)
  Coffeemaker Mashtun (Chris Shenton)
  RE: low extraction (James Dipalma)
  sparging manifold design ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  re: my chiller formula (mcnally)
  Re: Kolsch (Bill Flowers)
  RE: siphon woes (Carl West)
  Re:siphoning ("Ron Fresne" )
  Electric boiler construction (Al Richer)
  re: Maisel (Bayreuth) (mcnally)

Send articles for __publication__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Archives are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) **Please do not send me requests for back issues!** *********(They will be silenty discarded!)********* **For Cat's Meow information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu**
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 13:53:43 PDT From: rush at xanadu.llnl.gov (Alan Edwards) Subject: Returning to the Good Ol' Days Ah, yes, the good ol' days. While that phrase seems a bit trite, it is basically true. The reason that they were good is that the signal-to-noise ratio (another overused phrase) was very high. The main reason for that is that the digest was full of questions and answers--good questions and good answers--and not so much speculation and flamage. It was not a bore, it was a joy to read--a real learning resource. There were not many who just spewed speculation and guesses in order to feel important. It was not that people weren't thinking for themselves; there were those who questioned the established routines. And there were usually constructive replies--or at least good debates (full of information) with very little name calling. The tension was very low. It seems that these days, there are those who are just waiting to pounce. (At least we haven't reverted to spelling flames.) I'm not saying that the digest sucks right now (I think it's great); it just gets tiring sifting through all the garbage. Maybe a little selective remembering is at work here, but there IS a difference (otherwise, not so many would agree). How do we return to those days? RELAX! If it's a flame, sleep on it (then take it to email). Remember, everyone has a different method that works for them. There are no RIGHT ways of doing anything. Forgive others' mistakes. Remember, there are PEOPLE at the other end. If we were all in one big room, and someone made a "lame" mistake, would everyone jump up and call that person an asshole to his face? I don't think so. They might take him aside (hint: email) and point out his mistake. Don't burn your bridges (before they hatch? :-). We are all here to help each other and to better ourselves. -Alan .------------------------------------. | Alan Edwards: rush at xanadu.llnl.gov | Ren & Stimpy in '92! | or: alan-edwards at llnl.gov | (No one else REAL is running.) `------------------------------------' Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 18:18:32 -0400 From: gxd at po.CWRU.Edu (Guy Derose) Subject: Heavyside Ale recipe Here is a recipe I made last night for a Scotch Heavy Ale. It is my 4th batch to date. Heavyside Ale (Ingredients for 5 US gallons) 3.5# Glenbrew Heavy 80/- Ale Kit 2.25# Laaglander Dark DME 0.5# crushed Crystal malt (20L) 1 oz. Northern Brewer hops (steep last 10 min) 2 pkg. dry ale yeast from kit Notes: Prepare yeast by reconstituting in 16 oz. warm tap water in a jar before brewing begins. Slowly bring 1 Qt. cold tap water with 1/2 lb. crystal malt to a boil, about 30 min. Remove spent grains by pouring the liquid through a strainer into the main brewpot and sparging with 1 Qt. boiling water. Add 3 US pints of water to brewpot and bring to a boil. Add can and DME and boil for 15 min. Steep hop pellets in hop bag for 10 min with heat off, then remove hops and pour concentrated wort into the fermenter. Since I've marked the outside of the (plastic) fermenter in gallon increments, I then added cold water to raise the level to the 5 gal. line. After cooling I pitched the yeast, sealed it up, and attached the fermentation lock. After less than 7 hours, the wort was bubbling like mad. I intend to prime with 1 cup dark DME when finished. It really looks and smells great in the fermenter, and I am looking forward to drinking it. - -- Guy DeRose Case Western Reserve University Physicist, PP-ASEL, homebrewer (NOT necessarily in that order) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 18:45:07 EDT From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West) Subject: headspace js asks: > So, is it possible that homebrewers, who would not think of letting their > beer freeze, could reduce the headspace to the point where O2 is simply a > non-issue? You could try it, but store 'em in a bucket. Water is virtually incompressable, when it `decides' to be bigger because of the temperature, it gets bigger. Period. You'd be surprised how small a temperature change it takes to break a sealed glass bottle that is _completely_ full of water. I know, I tried it. In my (limited) experience there is a direct correlation between the size of headspace and the carbonation of the beer. I don't know if this is a causal relationship or not, or what the mechanism is if it is. Will the yeast shut down if the pressure goes up too far or too fast? Carl (back from vacation) WISL,BM. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 17:32 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Classified Section To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling In an effort to remove the friction and flaming caused by the seeming commercial aspects of occasional posts, I have decided to address the issue directly. It is obvious that a need exists to connect users and sources of homebrewing equimpent, ideas and supplies, be they personal or commercial. To exclude the hobby computer network from making this connection, is to fight technology and progress and to cut off our nose to spite our face. The trick is to do it in a way that is not only a useful addition to what we are already doing, but to do it in a way that is not offensive or injurious to the existing networks and fora. I have presented and discussed my proposed project on usenet and although one can't please everyone, the concensus is that it is a good idea and I am implementing it forthwith. Until or unless invited to post it to HBD or any other forum, the weekly CLASSIFIED SECTION will be posted only to the rec.crafts.brewing newsgroup on usenet. Anyone may email ads to me and direct responses to any email or US Mail address but the list itself will only appear on usenet for the present. The restrictions are few, simple and explicit. They are spelled out in this preview posting..... The following is the weekly edition of the r.c.b CLASSIFIED SECTION All submissions must be brewing related, 5 lines or less and no item may be posted more then once in a 30 day period. Items may be submitted as WANTED or FOR SALE and may be either personal or commercial. Send submissions to arf at ddsw1.mcs.com with CLASSIFIED as subject. ................ FORSALE... The World's Greatest Beer, $99 per bottle, money back guarantee. email to arf at wgb.com for details and testimonials from the world's great brewers. WANTED.... One bottle of the World's Greatest Beer. Price is no object. I will even pick it up and shake hands with the brewer. If anyone knows where I can find one, email to jay at humble.pie.com. .......... You get the idea. I am open for business. Send me your stuff. js Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 18:43:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul dArmond <paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu> Subject: Some old root beer receipts, sassafrass These recipes come from: The Scientific American Cyclopedia of Formulas, edited by Albert A. Hopkins {query editor of the "Scientific American"} New York, Scientific American Publishing Company, 1921 Root Beer--1.--To 5 gal. of boiling water add 1 1/2 gal. of molasses. Allow it to stand for 3 hours, then add bruised sassafras bark, wintergreen bark, sarsaparilla root, of each 1/4 lb., and 1/2 pt. of fresh yeast, water enough to make 15 to 17 gal. After this has fermented for 12 hours it can be drawn off and bottled. 2.--Pour boiling water on 2 1/2 oz. sassafras, 1 1/2 oz. wild cherry bark, 2 1/2 oz. allspice, 2 1/2 oz. wintergreen bark, 1/2 oz. hops, 1/2 oz. coriander seed, 2 gal. molasses. Let the mixture stand 1 day. Strain, add 1 pt. yeast, enough water to make 15 gal. This beer may be bottled the following day. 3.--Sarsaparilla, 1 lb.; spicewood, 1/4 lb.; guaiacum chips, 1/2 lb.; birch bark, 1/8 lb.; ginger, 1/4 oz.; sassafras, 2 oz.; prickly ash bark, 1/4 oz.; hops 1/2 oz. Boil for 12 hours over a moderate fire with sufficient water, so that the remainder shall measure 3 gal., to which add tincture of ginger, 4 oz.; oil of wintergreen, 1/2 oz.; alcohol, 1 pt. This prevents fermentation. To make root beer, take of this decoction, 1 qt.; molasses, 8 oz.; water 2 1/2 gal.; yeast 4 oz. This will soon ferment and produce a good, drinkable beverage. The root beer should be mixed, in warm weather, the evening before it is used, and can be kept for use either bottled or drawn by a common beer pump. Most people prefer a small addition of wild cherry bitters or hot drops to the above beer. [disclaimer - these recipes are reproduced for historical interest. They may make you swell up and turn purple, loose all your bodily hair, or withdraw from presidential politics. What can I say? Mileage varies...] About sassafras... My 1930 Merck's Index, 4th ed., says that sassafras is supplied as either the root or bark of the root. If the current sassafras bark is from the trunk, then it's not the stuff in the old recipes. Sassafras root, oil, etc. is a federally controlled substance because of the presence of safarol and iso-safarol [sp? they may end with an 'e']. As I recall, it was placed on the federal list in 1977-8. It is toxic to the liver as well as carcinogenic. Oil of sassafras smells very much like root beer, but not as strongly as modern root beer extract. My hunch is that the taste and aroma that you want are volatile oils and not the safarol. I wouldn't choose to drink safarol, but others might... Rootin' fer ya' -- Paul de Armond Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 21:34:46 EDT From: Jim Griggers <ncrcae!brew at devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> Subject: CO2 purity I posted a note on rec.crafts.brewing some time ago in response to someone asking about the purity of CO2. I could not find my original article, so here is the gist of what I said: >The CO2 that I buy for dispensing beer is not sold as a gas, but rather >a liquid. Both places that I have had my tanks filled store the CO2 >liquid in refrigerated tanks. The filling process is very similar to >having a propane tank filled, in that the tank is placed on a scale to >determine when the tank is full. Liquid CO2 is mostly what is in the tank >after filling. As the CO2 gas is removed from the tank, the liquid turns >into gas to maintain a fairly constant pressure. Gas can be used up for >quite some time while the gas pressure stays the same. It is only when >the last of the liquid CO2 evaporates that the tank pressure will start to >fall. > >Given that the CO2 was put in the tank as a liquid, very little of the >atmospheric gases should be in the tank. Nitrogen and oxygen require >low temperature and high pressures to liquify them. I think my original >article on R.C.B. addressed someone's concern on getting CO2 that was >mixed with nitrogen. After writing the above, I called "Air Products" and asked if they sold different grades of CO2. The response was "yes, we do." They sell standard industrial grade CO2, along with at least 5 others. All range from 99.8% pure for industrial grade to 99.995% pure for research grade. I then said, "What do you sell for dispensing beverages?" Answer: The industrial grade. I just saw that one person on the Digest works for Air Products. Maybe he can shed more light on this subject. Jim Griggers * * * brew at devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM * * 408 Timber Ridge Dr. * West Columbia, SC 29169 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 21:36:21 EDT From: Jim Griggers <ncrcae!brew at devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> Subject: Foxx Equipment, malt In HBD 950 klm at mscg.com (Kevin L. McBride) writes: =>Foxx Beverage, who got into the homebrew kegging supply business by =>popular demand and has done us a tremendous service, is now getting =>out of it. This is sort of what I figured out since I have requested two catalogs from Foxx and have not received them. The nice woman on the phone took down my name and address, asked if this was for homebrewing so that she would know which catalog to send, and that she would get the catalog out right away. The first request was several months ago. A few Digests ago, I asked about information concerning the quality of grain malt. I assume the interest in this subject got overshadowed since it was posted shortly after THE CONTEST. If anyone has any thoughts about the quality of different sources of malt, please speak up. Thanks. Jim Griggers * * * brew at devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM * * 408 Timber Ridge Dr. * West Columbia, SC 29169 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 21:48 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: BEER CONCENTRATE To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling A most amazing story appeared in this morning's Chi Trib. It seems that Coors is claiming to use Rocky Mountain Spring Water in the beer that they are "brewing" in Virginia and Busch is pointing out the absurdity of this in an ad. Coors is suing Busch and Busch is countersuing. Coors defense is absurd and illogical and I only repeat it because I think it brings a new term into the brewing lexicon and an insight into how this rubbish is really "brewed". They claim that the "beer concentrate is produced in Colorado and we only add water" in Virginia. It is getting harder and harder to find anything what ever to call big beer other than a colossal hoax, fraud and rip-off, regardless of what people claim about their sophisticated and hitech processes. It is interesting to speculate just what "beer concentrate" might be. I suspect there is somthing missing from the process because if one only added water it would be pretty flat. So the minimum would be beer fortified with alcohol to which water is added and carbonated. If it is low alcohol, it would not have to be fortified, and this business seems to justify my recent contention that they get rid of the alcohol simply by diluting beer with water. The other possibility is that the mashing is done in Colorado and the sweet wort or boiled wort is shipped to Virginia to be boiled/fermented and then diluted with enough water to get rid of that beer taste. I used to look at friendly looking taverns with a wistful eye when walking by but now I sort of wanta go in and chase out the money changers and knock some sense into the idiots drinking that slosh. js Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 00:48:45 PDT From: Dick Schoeller - ZKO2-2/M21 - DTN 381-2965 19-Aug-1992 0348 <"ddif::schoeller" at kobal.enet.dec.com> Subject: Auto Reply from Watch_Mail for 18-AUG-1992 16:48 to 1-SEP-1992 00:00 I am on vacation until 2 September 1992. If you have an urgent problem, please contact the following: OOTB Administrative Matters: Steve Grass OOTB Technical Problems: Scott Ponte BAGELS, GENEALOGY, ...: The appropriate alternate moderator Thanks for your patience! Dick Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Aug 92 11:46:00 WET From: "ONREUR::JSAMPSON" <jsampson%onreur.decnet at onreur.navy.mil> Subject: UK Grain Suppliers Does anybody know a good source for 10-20 kg quantities of crushed grain malt west of London (i.e., Berks/Bucks/Oxon...the closer to High Wycombe the better)? I've been getting mine from the Tucker malting mill in Devon but I haven't been down there for a while and now I'm out. Thanks, John A. Sampson Office of Naval Research European Office Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 08:17:33 -0400 From: aew at spitfire.unh.edu Subject: getting labels to stick (and come off easilly) gelly at persoft.com (Mitch Gelly) says: >What was passed on to me by a friend (Hi Brian!) was to use rubber cement.... This sounds good, I'll have to give it a try - what about all that rubber residue when you peel off the label? Does it come off with the paper? I've been using the following method: 3 parts water 1 part Elmers white glue. Labels stick great and a quick rinse of hot water while you're rinsing the inside of the bottle and the label and glue slides right off. Of course I use plain paper labels printed on my laser printer - glossy labels might be harder to remove because the water wouldn't soak them as easilly. Previously I've read here in the HBD to use milk, but I tried that with little success - The labels seem to jump off of the bottles after a week. Thanks for the tip Mitch, -Al =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Pole-Vaulters Get a Natural High! | GO Celts! University of New Hampshire +-------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | You keep using that word. I do not think it means Internet: AEW at UNH.EDU | what you think it means. -The Princess Bride =============================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 08:03:25 CDT From: smanastasi at mmm.com Subject: Missed one line on proposed all grain process My editor (not human error!) ate one line of my post. Step 4 should be: 4. Begin draining cooler into brew pot. One can recycle the wort by ADD> POURING WORT BACK INTO THE COOLER. ADD HOT WATER AND CONTINUE slowly draining the cooler until 7 gallons of wort have been collected. This is the sparge process. Sorry. - -------------------- Steve Anastasi smanastasi at mmm.com St. Paul, Minnesota Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Aug 1992 09:13:46 -0400 (EDT) From: JEFF at RCC.RTI.ORG Subject: Priming >>Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 11:02 EDT >>From: "C. Lyons" <LYONS at adc1.adc.ray.com> >>Subject: Question about adding yeast at bottling time. >>I have a question about the addition of yeast at bottling time. Is this >>recommended, and if so how much yeast should be added for a 5 gallon >>batch? The reason I ask is that I have repeatedly primed with 3/4 cup of >>corn sugar and have gotten poor carbonation. I have increased the amount >>of corn sugar to 1 cup for my last three batches, which has improved the >>carbonation, but is still far from the carbonation of commercial brews. >>I typically brew extract pale ales with and let the beer sit in the >>secondary for 4-to-5 weeks. Could the yeast be settling out and not >>in sufficient enough quantity for bottling? Any comments would be >>appreciated. >> >> ... Christopher Lyons >> lyons at adc1.adc.ray.com >> I'm certainly happy to put in my 2 cents worth on this issue but as you may or may not have noticed by reading the HBD, you'll get various opinions on any question. The HBD is indeed a valuable resource. However, an equally good source is BOOKS. Charlie Papazian's "The Complete Joy of Homebrewing" and Dave Miller's "The Complete Handbook of Home Brewing" and, new for beginners, Dave Miller's "Brewing the Great Beers of The World (?)". Everyone on the HBD should own or at least have access to one or more of these books. Priming is one area where most authors agree: do NOT prime each bottle individually (read one of the books for the why not to this answer). I use 3/4 cup corn sugar most of the time and have ample carbonation. Some recipes require less (stout, if the recipe comes from Miller requires only 1/2 cup). Your problem is probably in leaving it in the secondary for 4-5 weeks. Most ales should be completely fermented out in 7-14 days (if 65F or warmer). Even when I brew lagers, I only let it sit in the secondary at 50F for three weeks. Indeed the yeast WILL settle out. At that point, more sugar isn't the answer. You may need additional YEAST. But again, the best solution is to bottle after 7-14 days (take a hydrometer reading to know when to bottle). - -------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 09:28:03 -0400 From: blosskf at ttown.apci.com (Karl F. Bloss) Subject: Off to Hamburg... In HOMEBREW Digest #951, Don Scheidt asks: >Where are you going in Germany?? There are more than 1100 brewers, and >they collectively produce over 4500 different beers! Point taken! Specifically, I will be in Hamburg, but I'll be mobile within that general vicinity. I do have a friend there who knows his pubs, but if anyone knows of any great brewpubs that are not to be missed, drop me a line. -Karl "Bier her, Bier her, oder ich fall' um!" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 10:11:37 -0400 (EDT) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: all grain stuff Good list of all-grain equipment/steps. I'd recommend a 10-gallon (or more) cooler though; it allows you to add all the sparge water at once, and then drain it all off without having to babysit it. My last batch had 70% efficiency that way, which is fine with me. A quick efficiency primer: Points per pound (PPP) only work if you are using a single type of grain; different grains have different maximum PPP's. I figure out efficiency as follows - Multiply the pounds of each grain by it's max. PPP (found in the literature, actually I use the numbers in the Brew Recipe Formulator). Total these up, and you have the maximum possible points from your grist (ie. 100% efficiency). Take the original gravity of your wort, subtract the 1.000. Multiply this by the number of gallons, and you have the number of points of your wort. Divide this by the max. possible points, and there's your efficiency. Along a similar note, the first-time all-grainer said he had very low efficiency. Actually, you weren't too bad. The formula above gives 60% efficiency, more or less (again from the BRF, I should send Chris some money I guess). Use more pale malt next time; that should help convert more of the wheat. Wheat beer is not very high OG anyway, so relax and enjoy it, it sounds like a fine summertime drink. Finally, I haven't gotten the answer I'm looking for re. stirring an infusion mash. I infuse the grist to conversion temperature, then put it in an insulated box. It stays well within 2 degrees. My question is, is it better to stir the mash occasionally, or best to just let it sit? It's not a matter of evenly distributing the heat, but rather of mixing up the enzymes/starches/sugars. Russ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 07:31:53 -0700 From: Bob Konigsberg <bobk at NSD.3Com.COM> Subject: Assorted Comments First of all, thanks to Steve Anastasi for his summary of full grain. As an extract brewer, I'm always interested in information that will help lead me to the holy grail :-) Christopher Lyons asked about adding yeast at bottling time. I've had a similar problem with lack of carbonation with 3/4 cup. I've been told that (Haven't verified it yet) that I'm waiting too long (about 3 weeks) after racking to a secondary, and that there isn't enough yeast to do the job within the space of a few weeks. The recommendation here is to rack to the secondary, and bottle within 2 weeks. That's hard in my case with a 1 year old running around, but I'll try next time. Question: Has anyone make an extract brew with JUST dark malt extract, or maybe with some crystal? How did it taste? What kind of body. I'm looking at trying it just for the heck of it, but was wondering if anyone else has already done this. Another item of interest (I haven't tried this). I was talking with Brian of Fermentation Frenzy, and he said that when he got a beer that was too sweet at bottling time, he quickly boiled up (in plain water) some northern brewer hops, and added them to correct the sweetness/bitterness ratio. Has anyone else tried this? And if so, with what success? As another experiment, I'm going to make a batch with 6 lbs. Alexander's light extract, and then go heavy (3 lbs) on the crystal malt to see how much it takes to get that "caramelly" flavor. Again, any others out there who've done something like this? I'm trying to do some experiments to push normal limits of ingredients to see what the effect of extremes are in order to establish some scale for ingredients other than straight malt. Regarding sensitivity to hops, I've found that a bittering rate much above 11 AAU's gives me instant heartburn. Hop aroma doesn't seem to have anything to do with it. Not much, but it's another data point. BobK Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 9:38:02 CDT From: guy at mspe5.b11.ingr.com (Guy D. McConnell) Subject: Birmingham Brewing Co. Darren Evans-Young writes: > Re: Birmingham Brewing Co. > > Latest word is Brewmaster Lee Nicholson who was instrumental in restarting > the company, was fired last month. This could have some major implications. > Such as, if the beer doesnt sell well, the beer ignorant snobs who are > probably running it now, will change the recipe...you know, make it > lighter? Lee is the one who, along with his lawyer partner (first mistake?), got the laws changed to allow breweries in Alabama. He used to run a homebrew supply store in Homewood long ago. He founded a brewpub in Tampa FL. and then came back to Birmingham to start the Birmingham Brewing Co. I talked with Lee several weeks ago, very soon after the trouble began at the brewery. I posted nothing here because he asked that I not discuss the specifics of the case due to possible legal ramifications. All I will say is that the situation is still up in the air and don't count Lee out just yet. John Zanteson, the other brewer (Head Brewer, Assistant Brewmaster or something like that) who came from Hopland in Mendicino CA, is still there and is now acting brewmaster. I also plan to tour the brewery in the near future and post a review. The beer is now available on tap here in Huntsville and is quite good. There is a Red Mountain Red Ale and Red Mountain Golden Lager. It is also available in Birmingham-area bars (especially the 5-points south area). Not in bottles yet. Anyway, I'll be talking to both Lee and John again soon and I'll post any updates that I can. - -- Guy McConnell guy at mspe5.b11.ingr.com "Red Mountain Red goes to your head" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 11:09:10 EDT From: css at srm1.stx.com (Chris Shenton) Subject: Coffeemaker Mashtun Chuck Cox <chuck at synchro.com> effuses: I just bought a cafeteria coffeemaker for $1. It has a pair of side-by-side 5 gal tubs, all stainless. It has a swivelling sparge head, temperature control, dual sparge/fill timers, some kind of recirculating pump, and what appears to be an overflow or level sensor. As far as I can tell, I just need to add false bottoms and a more accurate thermometer to turn this into a semi-automatic recirculating mash/lauter tun. Has anyone out there already done this? In one of the back issues of Zymurgy, there's a picture of a Rodney ``RIMS'' Morris device which I recall was based on a two-urn Coffee Thing. Might want to check the article, or write him. The setup sounds great -- any suggestions how I can acquire one :-) or was this just a random event? :-( Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 11:06:47 EDT From: dipalma at banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma) Subject: RE: low extraction Hi All, In HBD#951, Tom Feller wrote: >To the point or rather the problem, very very low extraction. <description of brewing procedure deleted> >So what is my problems. Welcome to the wonderful world of all grain brewing, Tom. I've made only 7 all grain batches myself, so I'm hardly an expert, but I did notice a couple of things in your post. Two common causes of low extraction are too coarse a grind of the grain, and sparging too fast. Check your grind, ideally each kernel should be broken into 4-6 pieces and the husks nearly intact. There should be no grains left intact. Of course, this is the ideal. If you're using a Corona mill as most of us are, you'll get some flour and a few of the grains do come through intact, but make sure the kernels are well broken up to the extent that this is possible. There was a repost from HBD#313 in r.c.b the other day which was essentially a treatise on sparging. Among other useful bits of information was that the runoff rate should be around 10-12 minutes per gallon. I run my sparge a little faster than that, usually around an hour for 6.5-7 gallons, and I get around 30 pts/lb/gal. At 25 minutes for 7 gallons, your runoff rate sounds a bit fast. >Should I have checked the mash water for ph. level? Yep. I use test papers that are available from most homebrew suppliers. They're cheap, not super accurate, but they don't have to be. Check the mash ph after doughing in the grain, if it's anywhere between 5.0 - 5.5 or thereabouts, it's fine. >Should I have mashed longer at 155-158 deg.F? Use an iodine test to determine if conversion is complete. If so, continuing to mash at that temperature will cause long chains of dextrins to become shorter chains of dextrins, but won't improve extraction ratings. >I then added water to make my 7 gal., >stirred and took a SG reading, 1.020. Adding water will dilute the solution and lower the SG reading. Run your sparge until the SG is 1.008-1010, corrected for temperature of the runoff, then stop sparging. You'll extract more tannin than sugar if you continue beyond this point, though it sounds like you already knew that. If you end up with less than 7 gallons of wort, take your SG reading *before* adding water to get to the proper pre-boil volume, and remember to adjust your extraction calculations for the volume you do have. Then add water to get to 7 gallons, you're going to boil this down to 5 - 5.5 gallons anyway, and the SG will be higher after the boil. This leads to another point in your post that was not clear. You mentioned that the expected SG was 1.045, usually this means after the wort has been boiled down to 5 gallons, yet you compared your reading of 1.020 taken when you had 7 gallons. A more valid comparison would have been the 1.028 for 5.5 gallons you ended with after the boil. If you had boiled down to 5 gallons, you would have got something over 1.030. A personal observation: I own some of Dave Miller's books, they are generally excellent. However, Miller seems to insist that homebrewers should be able to get the theoretical maximums of 35-36 SG pts/lb/gal. If you beat through the math for 6.5 pounds of grain, 1.045 for 5 gallons of wort, it works out to ~35 points. I have never gotten better than 32, I generally get around 30. The point that I think needs to be made here is that if a brewer is getting somewhere in the ballpark of 28-30 points, that's fine. When desiging or following recipes, use whatever figure you do get, and adjust accordingly (use a little more grain). One final word of encouragement to Tom: glad to see you're brewing again this Friday, don't be put off by some of the posts that have appeared in this forum in recent weeks (lame NOT!). NO ONE is born knowing how to make good beer, there is a significant learning curve involved. IMHO, the learning is part of the *fun*. My longest post *ever*, hope it helps, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 11:08:09 EDT From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: sparging manifold design I finally took the leap (step?) to all-grain this weekend. After reading posts about "slotted pipe" manifolds for sparging, I realized that I had everything I needed to build such a setup (well, I had to get a tee and an elbow). I took some 3/8" tubing from my mega-chiller-from-hell (50' of tubing is *too much*), cut slots every 3/4" to 1" with a hacksaw, crimped one end, bent the other, and attached the bent ends to a tee fitting. I cut another length of tubing just tall enough to reach the top of my rectangular cooler and attached it to the center of the tee. An elbow at the top connects to 6' of pvc tubing to make a siphon hose. Total expenditure: <$5. Wonderful ASCII graphics drawing: /---------------------------------\ / | | | | | | | | | /------------------------------/ | | /---\ Top view | | <--Tube coming up from tee. \---/ | | Slots are in bottom of tubing, cut about 1/2 way through. | | | \------------------------------\ \ | | | | | | | | \---------------------------------/ It worked. Sort of. I had to "back flush" it with air (translation: blow into the end of the siphon tube) to clear husks (I assume) out of the slots to really get it started. It took over an hour to drain 4 gallons of first runnings from the cooler (this was a barleywine recipe). Before I use it again, I'm going to widen the slots. Since it siphons 7 gallons of plain water from the cooler in about 20 minutes, I am assuming that the slowness is at least partly due to the slots getting blocked by husks or grain particles. If a few come through at the beginning, it's easy enough to dump that bit of wort back into the cooler until the filter bed gets set. Any other suggestions or comments (preferably based on experience with a similar setup) would be appreciated. (Jack, I know about your system, but I want to try to collect over the entire bottom of the cooler, especially as it is longer than it is deep.) =Spencer W. Thomas HSITN, U of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109 spencer.thomas at med.umich.edu 313-747-2778 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 08:36:23 -0700 From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com Subject: re: my chiller formula Please note that since I posted my stuff about chiller operation, several people who actually *know* what they're talking about have corrected me. The main issue I overlooked (duhh) is the ice->water state change takes a substantial amount of energy. Thus, for a bucket of *water only* at 33 degrees, my formula is OK. Since most people use a heat sink composed of ice chunks floating in water, my formula is not generally accurate. _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- Mike McNally mcnally at wsl.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation Western Software Lab Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 10:50:52 -0400 From: waflowers at quantum.qnx.com (Bill Flowers) Subject: Re: Kolsch Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> writes: > My roomate brews a pretty close Kolsch approximation using the Wyeast > European Ale, which is fairly neutral. Actually, we think one of the > keys to the Kolsch style is cold-conditioning: doing a tertiary > fermentation at about 40F for 10-14 days. That helps give it some of > the "cleanness" of a lager even though the primary and secondary are at > ale temps (67F in our basement). If you do find a source for Kolsch > yeast, though, please post it. Please, share the recipe. I've been wanting to duplicate Kolsch (as best I could) ever since I tried it years ago when attending a tradeshow. Also Chuck Cox <chuck at synchro.com> signs off with: > In de hemel is geen bier, daarom drinken wij het hier. Have you never heard of Heaven on Earth? ;-) (If you don't understand, ask him for the explanation, it's his signature!) - -- W.A. (Bill) Flowers email: waflowers at quantum.on.ca Quantum Software Systems, Ltd. QUICS: bill (613) 591-0934 (data) (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 11:20:01 EDT From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West) Subject: RE: siphon woes I too have had the problem with bubbles breaking the siphon. In my case it was because I was using one of those racking `canes'. At the place where the soft tubing is shoved onto the hard `cane' there's a great deal of turbulence in the flow, that's why and where the bubbles come out of solution and cause the problem. My answer was to get rid of the `cane' and just use the soft tubing. Cut the pick-up end of the tubing at a severe angle so that it won't seal against the side of the carboy. Carl WISL,BM. Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Aug 92 11:37:02 EST From: "Ron Fresne" <FRESNE at washpost.wdc.sri.com> Subject: Re:siphoning >Chris Goedde writes that CO2 coming out of solution in the siphon tube is stopping the action. I never liked the idea of siphoning twice. So, as a primary, I use a 7 gal. plastic bucket with a spigot installed about .5-1" from the bottom. I place a board or some magazines under the spout during fermentation so that most of the sediment collects away from the outlet, and then when the kraeusen falls and I'm ready to rack, I tip the bucket forward slowly, attach a hose to the spigot, and open the valve. (Just as a precaution to keep creatures out of the spigot, I cover it with plastic wrap or a sterile plastic baby bottle liner--I have lots of these--until racking.) I'm new to homebrewing myself, but this has worked well for me with my first few batches. If anyone has comments on this approach, I'd like to hear them. rrf ______________________________________________________________________ Ronald R. Fresne | Phone: (703) 247-8532 Science Policy Analyst | Fax: (703) 247-8410 Science & Technology Policy Program | SRI International, Washington, D.C. | Fresne at WASHPOST.WDC.SRI.COM ______________________________________|_______________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 10:37:38 EDT From: richer at desi.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Al Richer) Subject: Electric boiler construction For the edification of the assembled audience, I wish to present this tale of the assembly of a stainless-steel electric boiler from locally available materials. This is not a project for the faint of heart, nor for those with marginal metalworking and electrical skills. It involves drilling, filing, sawing, silver-soldering, and wiring for 220volts and heavy ampereages. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE IN THESE SKILLS, PLEASE DON"T TRY IT! ALso, I accept no responsibility for you if you get burned, stuck, zapped or otherwise mutilated trying this. You're on your own... But, as Shakespeare said, the play's the thing. Let us be off...as if we weren't already... The container of choice here is a standard 1/4 keg, in stainless steel. I obtained mine from a scrap dealer with a hole punched in the top, for $1/pound, as scrap. Scrap dealers around here are touchy on this, but can usually be persuaded to sell if you're friendly. Once you have obtained your container, the next task is to remove the top. My weapon-of-choice for this is a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade attached. It makes fairly handy work of the top, better if you periodically grind off the mount of the blade to expose a new tooth area. After cutting, flat-file the top of the keg to create a smooth, rounded edge. This is important, as the top edges after cutting will be very sharp. WEAR GLOVES WHILE PERFORMING THIS STEP, as it is far too easy to slip and gash yourself while filing. Now, we need to add the connector for the element, as well as a drain port on the bottom. For the drain port, I drilled a hole to take a length of 3/8" copper tubing. This size is a good fit for a 1/2" drill bit. I then silver-soldered the copper into the hole, and then soldered a tubing to male pipe fitting connector onto the copper tubing. This was then mated to a ball valve. Thus, we can then drain without having to lug and slosh, as the case may be. A note on silver soldering: I obtained mine from Sears. it comes in a blister pack with flux for about $10. It was enough to do this job, and leave some for repairs. Also, yes, it is food-safe, being 55/45 tin and silver. I used an oxy-propane torch rig to do the silver soldering. It took a bit of patience to get the larger bits hot enough without overheating the stainless steel, but it worked fine. Straight propane is not hot enough for the larger fitting (I tried it). Be careful not to overheat the strainless steel, as it will crack and cause you no end of trouble. The larger connector(to take a water heater element) is nothing more than a 1" NPT female to copper pipe adapter. I drilled and filed an opening in the side of the keg body, just above the rounded bottom. Into this, I inserted the copper fitting, which I then silver-soldered in place. A tight fit is good on this, as silver solder does not bridge gaps terribly well. At this point, install the heating element and check the boiler for leaks. I used a 3500 watt low density heating element from Grainger. Any low-watt-density element compatible with the materials in the keg can be used. Use the standard ring washer that comes with it, anda little Teflon tape makes installation a bit easier. The controls for this are fairly simple. I used a 15 amp, 220 volt electric stove control I purchased locally from an appliance repair shop as a "throttle". I found this necessary when the element, connected directly, threw wort out of the pot with the vigor of the boil... I installed the control in the lid of a deep, waterproof aluminum box I purchased locally. The side of the box was drilled for a watertight grommet for a 12 AWG power cord, and the bottom drilled to take the nut of the element. The box is held to the keg by the element, and the gasket goes to the outside of the box, between it and the keg fitting. The element is wired to the heater control, which is then wired to a cord set for 220 V. Operation of the device is fairly simple. It controls not unlike a regular electric stove, but works better as the heat is being directly dissipated in the wort. Stirring is definitely required, though, as convection is not enough to prevent hot spots. I have yet to have any problems with hop bags or anything else, though. They seem to work fine. I'm going to try rigging this with a thermostatic control for temperature as time permits, but it works fine for my all-grain boils now. ajr Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 08:44:38 -0700 From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com Subject: re: Maisel (Bayreuth) A chance to correct Darryl Richman can't be passed up! Bayreuth is east of Munich, not west. It is the home of Maisel as well as the huge opera house constructed by Ludwig II (I think) for Wagnerian productions. (Now watch somebody correct me ... ) _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- Mike McNally mcnally at wsl.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation Western Software Lab Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #952, 08/21/92