HOMEBREW Digest #954 Tue 25 August 1992

Digest #953 Digest #955

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Marcato Marga Mullino mill (Jay Hersh)
  Brewing Disaster (Karen Jdsgeoac Hyrum GEOACOUSTIC)
  hops (Dan Watson)
  Re: BEER CONCENTRATE (Arthur Delano)
  foxx (dave ballard)
  Where is Bayreuth?  (Jeff Mizener)
  Siphons (Chris Estes)
  Bud's claims to be "naturally carbonated" (Michael J. Gerard)
  More on CO2 (Karl F. Bloss)
  siphon bubbles (SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42)
  Digest reader/extractor for Unix? (Stefan Karlsson)
  re: Maisel (Bayreuth) (Fritz Keinert)
  Foxx Equiptment (Jeff Copeland)
  Bayreuth, Maisel (Tom Strasser)
  re. RE: siphon woes (Michael Biondo)
  beer concentrate (Houck)
  yeast at bottling time (Brian Bliss)
  yeast at bottling time (Brian Bliss)
  Yeast at bottling time (Paul dArmond)
  Re: Coffeemaker Mashtun (Chuck Cox)
  Re: sparging manifold, Kolsch (Jeff Benjamin)
  Hamburg 'n' Bayreuth (Don Scheidt)
  Dark Malt Extract Brew (glenn raudins)
  Re: Labels, Chiller hose (Jacob Galley)
  YEAST CULTURE (Jack Schmidling)
  Yeast and the nature of things (digger!tcm)
  re: siphon woes, an easy solution (Micheal Yandrasits)
  First posting (Morris at drew.drew.edu, David R)
  more hydrometer woes (David Klumpp)
  Bud keg setup help wanted (Arthur Delano)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 18:34:22 EDT From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: Marcato Marga Mullino mill OK here's notes from the field on the Marcato Marga Mullino grain mill. I was in A&J imports in the North End (of Boston) last week. When I was in there the clerk in the store said they didn't have it. I told them I knew someone who had seen it there, so I left my name and number. The store manager called me back during the week and said that they indeed have the mill, and it is $60. Considering the price of the mill and it's quality I think this is reasonable. The mill however does have the following (all easily remedied) problems. 1) The grain did not seem to draw well into the rollers, even though they are scored in a spiral manner. The grooves for the scoring were too small compared to the grain size to effectively pull the grain in. Solution: I went to the hardware store and got a disc shaped grinding stone. I used this to grind 4 small (~1/8 inch) grooves parallel to the length of the roller. These grooves are pretty shallow, but they work real well to pull the grain in. While I did dissasemble the mill to grind the roller I now realize that that was not necessary at all, I could have simply used the table clamp that comes with it to hold the whoe assembly in place, and have ground the roller in place with no problem. Now I get fine throughput and a real good crush... 2) Small hopper size Solution: make an extender out of empty coke or pepsi bottles.. 3) Small catch tray size Solution: either cut out one end of the tray and prop it up to make a chute to re-direct the grain into a pot or other container, or make something siomilar out of empty soda bottles... Costs of modifications (assuming you already own a drill) $1.85 for grinder head + cost of the soda bottles (you DO get to drink the soda). An additional $2.50 or so for a 3/8 inch boring bit will allow you to drive the mill with a power drill. I think this mill is very good. It is only slightly more than a Corona, but gives a far better crush for the extra $$, and is less expensive than some other mills on the market. In all I am now really happy with this mill and plan to crush abd brew as soon as I get back from vacation... JaH - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 18:32:46 EDT From: jdsgeoac at typhoon (Karen Jdsgeoac Hyrum GEOACOUSTIC) Subject: Brewing Disaster This story is so terrible you may think I made it up, but its true. A friend of mine was so inspired by my HB that he decided to brew some of his own. He read Papazian and Miller, and watched me brew a batch. He was ready. One fine Saturday he went to his dads house and brewed up his first batch. Not having a wort chiller, but wanting to cool his beer quickly, he filled the second floor wash tub with water and placed his brew pot in it. Then disaster...The wash tub broke off the wall, landed on his foot, and spilled its contnents. The wort/water mix quickly found the stairs and ended up in the family room. The builder had molly bolted the wash tub to the wall and counted on the plastic pipe to hold the weight. This certainly was not a "Easy chill Method". Has anyone had a worse first brewing experiance? Hyrum Laney Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 17:18:47 MST From: dwatson at as.arizona.edu (Dan Watson) Subject: hops Howdy all, I have been interested in growing hops, and have read lots of good info on this digest. (This is largely academic, as I expect that they will not grow well here in Tucson.) Anyway, my wife Judy and I were out camping last week on the San Francisco river in New Mexico. One morning we hiked into a spectacular canyon called the Frisco Box; 600 foot cliffs about 30 feet apart, huge boulders, all in all a great spot. After climbing and wading thru about a half mile of the box we were resting on the rocks when I noticed something oddly familiar about the bright green vines along the cliffs... Yup, HOPS! They were vigorous ang healthy, about 30 feet tall at least, and covered with soft green cones. I was amazed! Unfortunatly they were unripe, but if anyone wants to try to harvest them, e-mail me for directions. I would love to try to use some of them in a "Frisco Box Bock" maybe. Dan Watson "Ahhh beer; the mother of us all!" -Marshall Efron, circa 1972- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 08:43:21 EDT From: Arthur Delano <ajd at itl.itd.umich.edu> Subject: Re: BEER CONCENTRATE Jack Schmidling supplied some interesting information about Busch's claims about Coors' brewing processes (hang with it, it gets easier). I had seen the clipping regarding Coors' lawsuit against Busch, and intended to post it but left the newspaper at work. Busch had made a commercial, or series of commercials, claiming that Coors prepared their beer in a concentrated form in Colorado, and shipped some of it to Virginia to be diluted to a conventional level and distributed from their plant there. Coors got an in- junction against the ads, so they are no longer airing (i haven't seen them at all). I don't recall the wording of the article, but detailed in it were claims that either (a) Coors really didn't do it or (b) they did it but so did all other major brewers, including Annheuser-Busch. If the case were the former, then there is a relatively simple libel suit (...about as simple as two major corporations slugging it out can be!). If the case were the latter, then i'm more intrigued than scandalized. Think of it... high-gravity Coors beer! Jack writes: ] It seems that ] Coors is claiming to use Rocky Mountain Spring Water in the beer that they ] are "brewing" in Virginia They may be hewing the the letter, if not spirit, of their claims. If Coors prepares a heavy wort in Colorado and then ships it to Virginia, the beer will, in fact, have some water from the Rocky Mountains in it, albeit not much -- more of a homeopathic dose. ] It is interesting to speculate just what "beer concentrate" might be. My uneducated speculation is that they prepare a heavy wort, ready for fermentation, in CO and ship it to VA to dilute, ferment, and bottle. If i were covering the story and had the time to do so, i would take a tour of the Virginia plant to see what is done there. AjD In my first paragraph, substitute "Busch" with "Anheuser-Bush", please... Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Aug 1992 8:38 EDT From: dab at blitzen.cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard) Subject: foxx hey now- just wanted to mention that i received a catalog from foxx a week or so ago along with a letter saying that they will still offer wholesale prices to "legitimate" homebrew clubs on items purchased in quantities of three or more (i'm the president of our club, which is why i got the letter). i know it's not a good as it used to be but it's still better than nothing. if you can scrape up a couple of people who need to order the same stuff, you're in business... dab ========================================================================= dave ballard no witty quotes today... dab at cc.bellcore.com ========================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 09:22:43 EDT From: avalon!jm at siemens.siemens.com (Jeff Mizener) Subject: Where is Bayreuth? Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 08:44:38 -0700 From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com Subject: re: Maisel (Bayreuth) A chance to correct Darryl Richman can't be passed up! Bayreuth is east of Munich, not west. It is the home of Maisel as well as the huge opera house constructed by Ludwig II (I think) for Wagnerian productions. (Now watch somebody correct me ... ) No, Linz (Austria) is east of Munich. Bayreuth is directly NORTH of Munich (about 200km). Kulmbach (home of EKU) is ~25km NNW of Bayreuth. Ceske Budejovice (Budweis) is ~230km ENE of Munich. Plzen (Pilsen) is ~220km NNE of Munich. Don't you people keep maps of east central Europe at your computers? Sheesh! :-) Jeff jm at sead.siemens.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 09:42:25 -0400 From: cestes at argos5.DNET.NASA.GOV (Chris Estes) Subject: Siphons Hi all... Regarding siphons, there has been some discussion that the plastic canes might be causing problems. The problem comes in where the flexible tubing meets the rigid cane and is probably due to a difference in the respective internal diameters of the cane and the tube (I'm a computer guy not a physicist!). I usually find that if you pinch the tube right where it mates to the cane, the bubble will be pushed out and you'll rid the tube of bubbles. As far as bubbles appearing in other parts of the tube, my experience has shown that as long as the tube is descending over its entire length (not going up and down), this happens to a lesser degree. And now a question on starting siphons... Starting siphons is a part of brewing that I WORRY about! Well, sometimes. I generally try to sanitize my tubes in a standard bleach/water solution. I fill them with tap water and start as recommended in most books. But, during the process of filling them with tap water, my hands touch the tubes. The tubes touch the sink. This worries me. Sometimes I don't fill the tubes enough and I have to start over. If I do this too many times I might start the siphon with my MOUTH! Then I really worry. I've made a few bad batches, and usually attribute it to bad siphoning techniques (except for the dropped thermometer which I retreived with an unwashed hand...). Anyway... My question: Has anyone ever used a hand or drill operated pump for racking. I've seen them for pumping gas from one car to another and other dubious activities and wonder about their application in beer. Any comments? -Chris- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 09:06:39 CDT From: Michael J. Gerard <mjgerard at eng.auburn.edu> Subject: Bud's claims to be "naturally carbonated" Full-Name: Michael J. Gerard I saw an ad on TV the other day for Budweiser. In the ad it claimed that bud was "naturally carbonated". This does not make any sense to me. If it was primed there would be sediment and the bottles (or cans) would require aging. Does anyone out there know anything about this claim? Just curious, Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 10:25:19 -0400 From: blosskf at ttown.apci.com (Karl F. Bloss) Subject: More on CO2 Although I didn't catch all of the conversation on CO2 dispensing, I have a few comments: Almost any grade of liquid CO2 should only contain residual O2 and N2 in the head space since the normal boiling points ( at 14.7 psia) are -109, -297, and -320 deg F, respectively. So the small percentage of other 'stuff' in the CO2 will be hydrocarbons and similar organic stuff that comes in out of the air. I'll check for sure with distribution, but my guess is that it's just residuals from air separation. Don't forget that cryogenic CO2 has the lovely property of turning solid if the pressure is taken off (i.e. dry ice)... we've heard of whole trailers doing that; then all you can do is wait for it to sublimate. *********************************************************************** * Karl F. Bloss, Systems Engineer | internet: blosskf at ttown.apci.com * * Air Products & Chemicals, Inc. | Prodigy : DPXM52A * * Telephone: (215) 481-5386 | FAX: (215) 481-2446 * *********************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 07:55:00 pdt From: SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42 at pollux.svale.hp.com Subject: siphon bubbles There's been plenty of talk about how to make a siphon so bubbles won't form, but these ideas don't help when there are bubbles forming in the tube. Here's what I do when this happens: Pinch the soft plastic tube above the bubbles to slow the flow. This lets the little bubbles collect into a big one. Then let go of the tube and the wort that's upstream will push the big bubble out through the tube. It's important to watch for bubbles early and pinch before things get too bad or this won't work. When I do get diostracted, I follow the same proceedure but bend the hose up past where I pinched it so the bubble will float up and allow more fluid behind the bubble. This way, you can work the bubble to the end of the tube. At the early stages, when bubbles are forming right at the connection between the cane and the tube, pinch it right there at the joint then let go. The bubbles will flow right down the tube. Try it. On another topic, I think the idea of a calssified section in this digest is interesting. Let's watch the experiment somewhere else and if it works, lets do it. Mike Schrempp Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 16:57:12 MET DST From: Stefan Karlsson <stefank at math.chalmers.se> Subject: Digest reader/extractor for Unix? I've seen programs for reading the digest in a nice way for PC and Mac, but does someone know about such a program for Unix, for example a script for sed or emacs. mp -d breaks pages for printing but it would be nice being able to extract a single article. Please post or email. Stefan Karlsson Math dep, Univ of Goteborg, Sweden - stefank at math.chalmers.se Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 10:06:56 CDT From: Fritz Keinert <keinert at iastate.edu> Subject: re: Maisel (Bayreuth) Mike McNally writes > A chance to correct Darryl Richman can't be passed up! Bayreuth is > east of Munich, not west. It is the home of Maisel as well as the > huge opera house constructed by Ludwig II (I think) for Wagnerian > productions. > > (Now watch somebody correct me ... ) > OK, watch this: the map of Germany that is on the wall right next to this computer here shows Bayreuth due north of Munich. So there! :-) - --- Fritz Keinert phone: (515) 294-5223 Department of Mathematics fax: (515) 294-5454 Iowa State University e-mail: keinert at iastate.edu Ames, IA 50011 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 09:14:11 -0600 From: copeland at calypso.atmos.colostate.edu (Jeff Copeland) Subject: Foxx Equiptment In HBD 952 Jim Griggers writes >In HBD 950 klm at mscg.com (Kevin L. McBride) writes: > >=>Foxx Beverage, who got into the homebrew kegging supply business by >=>popular demand and has done us a tremendous service, is now getting >=>out of it. > >This is sort of what I figured out since I have requested two catalogs from >Foxx and have not received them. The nice woman on the phone took down my >name and address, asked if this was for homebrewing so that she would know >which catalog to send, and that she would get the catalog out right away. >The first request was several months ago. > I called them up for a catalogue too a few weeks ago and it only took three days to get to me, granted I asked for kegging and beverage dispensing supplies (did not mention homebrewing) and had it sent to me at the university. After getting the catalogue I went to their Denver location to pick up a few things (2-stage regulator $36, disconnects $3.50) they were very helpful It doesn't seem to me that they are getting out of the business, but they may have raised their prices more in line with retail. I don't know what their old prices were, but what I got was the best price I could find by quite a bit but the prices on their kegs were a bit higher that elsewhere. Jeff Copeland Atmospheric Science Colorado State University Ft Collins CO 80523 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 11:50:19 EDT From: strasser at raj5.tn.cornell.edu (Tom Strasser) Subject: Bayreuth, Maisel Just to set the record straight, Darryl and Mike should check out their maps, as Bayreuth, location of Maisel Brewery is *north* of Munich, actually in Franconia, the northernmost part of Bavaria, and where you would go to find the largest number of breweries per unit area in the world (for any reasonably large area). It is very near the border of Czechoslovakia with the two formerly seperate German countries of East and West Germany (the DDR and the BRD). The area is famous for it's Darker beers, such as Schwartz beer. Also in the area is Bamberg, home of the Rauchbier (smoked beer). Perhaps the most famous beer from the area would be E.K.U. 28, made in Kulmbach. I might even go so far as to say that, hard as it is to believe, *both* Mike and Darryl are wrong, as given the size of Munich, I don't think Bayreuth is even slightly east or west of it :-). Auf ein neues, Tom Strasser...strasser at raj5.tn.cornell.edu...strasser at crnlmsc2.bitnet Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 10:55:06 CDT From: michael at wupsych.wustl.edu (Michael Biondo) Subject: re. RE: siphon woes Carl West writes: >I too have had the problem with bubbles breaking the siphon. In my case >it was because I was using one of those racking `canes'. At the place >where the soft tubing is shoved onto the hard `cane' there's a great >deal of turbulence in the flow, that's why and where the bubbles come >out of solution and cause the problem. A neat trick that was shown to me is just give the soft tubing a quick pinch right where it joins the racking cane. Any bubbles that have formed usually flows right out. In my case, once I have cleared the bubbles one time, they usually don't re-accure. Hope this helps... Mike Biondo michael at wupsych.wustl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 10:25:38 MDT From: jeorg at chs.com (Houck) Subject: beer concentrate >It is interesting to speculate just what "beer concentrate" might be. I >suspect there is somthing missing from the process because if one only added >water it would be pretty flat. could be quite good (with a little co2 added). my understanding is that they brew and ferment here (colorado) and then ship to virginia to be diluted and bottled or canned. i believe coors' contention was that they no longer have "rocky mountain spring water" on their label and that busch accusing coors of "watering down their beer" was the pot calling the kettle ... let the big guys duke it out. >As another experiment, I'm going to make a batch with 6 lbs. Alexander's >light extract, and then go heavy (3 lbs) on the crystal malt to see how >much it takes to get that "caramelly" flavor. Again, any others out there >who've done something like this? I'm trying to do some experiments to push >normal limits of ingredients to see what the effect of extremes are in order >to establish some scale for ingredients other than straight malt. depends on how "caramelly" you want it. i can taste it using only one pound 40l crystal, but have used up to four. gets quite dark and sweet, so balance the hops. jeorg Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 11:51:39 EDT From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: yeast at bottling time Christopher Lyons (lyons at adc1.adc.ray.com) writes: >I have a question about the addition of yeast at bottling time. Is this >recommended, and if so how much yeast should be added for a 5 gallon >batch? The reason I ask is that I have repeatedly primed with 3/4 cup of >corn sugar and have gotten poor carbonation. I have increased the amount >of corn sugar to 1 cup for my last three batches, which has improved the >carbonation, but is still far from the carbonation of commercial brews. >I typically brew extract pale ales with and let the beer sit in the >secondary for 4-to-5 weeks. Could the yeast be settling out and not >in sufficient enough quantity for bottling? Any comments would be >appreciated. Let some bottles sit for an extra month or two, and if the carbonation level increases quite a bit (it probably will), this is your problem. I usually let my ales sit for at least 2 weeks (typically 4) after all apparrent fermentation has stopped, and just let time solve the slow carbonation problem. usually (at room temp, with something weaker than a barley wine), the beer is undercarbonated for around 6 weeks, and then everything just seems to kick in all at once. Recently (since reading "Belgian Ale") I've taken to adding the extra yeast at bottling time, and it seems to work pretty well - my last batch was carbonated after a week in the bottle. Just rehydrate a packet of yeast, and throw it in the beer when you prime. (I haven't tried this with liquid yeast, and it prpbably wouldn't be too keen to make a sweet beer and then using a super-attenuative yeast to prime with) You can also try letting the yeast ferment the priming sugar a little to get it going and then bottle, but you have to either use malt extract or add yeast nutrient to get the yeast started. You also risk letting too much of the stuff ferment away, and under-priming/carbonating the beer. Remember - adding extra yeast at bottle time reduces the amount of time necessary to fully carbonate, but does not affect the final carbonation level. (i.e. cut back to <= 3/4 cup sugar when you try this) - --------------------- > Glenn Anderson was looking for home brew suppliers in the Chicago area. The Weinkeller Liquor store on E. Roosevelt Rd. in Berwyn carries a small selection of homebrewing supplies, and big selection of imports (last time I visited I picked up a few bottles of Traquiar House - what's the proper way to pronounce "Traquiar"?), plus you can get tanked on some pretty fine suds in the microbrewery next door... bb Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 11:50:51 EDT From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: yeast at bottling time ~v Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 10:08:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul dArmond <paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu> Subject: Yeast at bottling time Like Bob and Chris, I had what seemed like excessively long conditioning times in the bottle. I'm now adding 1/4 tsp. of dry yeast to 5 gal at bottling time and shake the bottles every other day to keep the yeast suspended during the first 4 days after bottling. I was waiting 3-5 weeks for a reasonable level of carbonation, now there is some fizz at one week and good carbonation at two. I've had the same problem with root beer and ginger ale, but keeping the yeast suspended for the first several days seems to do it. One of the guys at The Cellar in Seattle suggested laying the bottles on their side to expose more bottom area for the yeast to spread out on. I don't know what the cause of the slow conditioning was. Most of my beers are ales with OG ~1.06-7. We have very hard water with high levels of manganese. I frequently use 1 T. of polyclar in the secondary after the yeast has settled. The amount of time in the secondary has varied without a noticible relation to conditioning time, though I've always waited for the yeast to drop in the secondary before bottling. It's a mystery to me... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 9:08:50 EDT From: chuck at synchro.com (Chuck Cox) Subject: Re: Coffeemaker Mashtun Chris Shenton sez... > > Chuck Cox <chuck at synchro.com> effuses: > > I just bought a cafeteria coffeemaker for $1. > > The setup sounds great -- any suggestions how I can acquire one :-) > or was this just a random event? :-( I bought mine at a surplus audio equipment auction B-) I think $1 is an unusually good deal, but you might find a reasonable deal if you check out business equipment auctions in your area. I saw one of those tall party-sized coffee makers go for $10 at another auction, so there doesn't seem to be much demand for used coffee urns. I suspect every time a business goes under, or expands, a used coffee urn enters the market. One caveat: you may have to rewire the urn to work with your household electricity. The unit I bought is rated at 10kW (120v single-phase), thats 80 amps, my entire apartment is limited to 50 amps. I will simply disconnect 3 of the 4 heating elements, and plug it into the 30 amp stove circuit. This thing must heat up *FAST* when all 4 elements are dumping ~8 kW into the ~10 gallon water bath. Since I don't want to boil the water, I think a single ~2 kW element will work fine. - -- Chuck Cox <chuck at synchro.com> In de hemel is geen bier, daarom drinken wij het hier. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 13:09:00 MDT From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Re: sparging manifold, Kolsch "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> says of his new copper sparge manifold: > It worked. Sort of. I had to "back flush" it with air (translation: > blow into the end of the siphon tube) to clear husks (I assume) out of > the slots to really get it started. It took over an hour to drain 4 > gallons of first runnings from the cooler My manifold is similar to yours, except perhaps the slots we cut with a hacksaw didn't go through quite as far (maybe 1/4 - 1/3 the tube diameter). I suspect that the grind of your grain is at fault; I've got a Marcato roller mill, and usually can drain as fast as if there were no grain at all. Also, did you put the manifold in *before* you started mashing? I can easily see it getting clogged if you try to push it through all that wet grain. waflowers at quantum.qnx.com (Bill Flowers) asks me to share my partner's Kolsch recipe. Here it is: Fat Wanda's Kolsch Klone 7 lb pale malt 1-3/4 oz Hallertau (5.0%) 1-1/2 lb Vienna malt 1/2 oz Tettnang (4.5%) 3/4 lb wheat malt Wyeast European Ale O.G. 1.042, F.G. 1.009 Yield: 5.8 gallons To keep hop aroma low, the last addition of hops should come no later than 20 minutes before the end of the boil. The trick to this beer is to cold condition it. After 4 days primary and 4 days secondary fermentation at ale temps (~65F), rack again and cold condition at 40F for 12 days. Then prime and bottle as usual. This beer should be very pale, and taste "clean" like a lager but with an ale's body and fruitiness. This beer took first prize in the "pale ale" category at the local (Northern Colorado) AugustFest competition this year. It's not *exactly* like drinking in Cologne, but darn close. - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at hpfcla.fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado "Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium." - T.S. Eliot Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 10:28:11 PDT From: tahoma!dgs1300 at bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Don Scheidt) Subject: Hamburg 'n' Bayreuth In HOMEBREW Digest #952, Karl F. Bloss responds: >In HOMEBREW Digest #951, Don Scheidt asks: > >>Where are you going in Germany?? There are more than 1100 brewers, and >>they collectively produce over 4500 different beers! > >Point taken! Specifically, I will be in Hamburg, but I'll be mobile >within that general vicinity. I do have a friend there who knows his >pubs, but if anyone knows of any great brewpubs that are not to be missed, >drop me a line. Specifically to Karl - please e-mail me; I get a bounce when I try to e-mail to you. I'll figure out the return-path (with luck) and let you know what I've learned about the German Northland. In general - for those who wish to know - the German Northland (the state of Schleswig-Holstein, the city-states of Hamburg and Bremen, and the state of Niedersachsen, or Lower Saxony) has the lightest distribution of brewers in Germany, as compared to the Big Three states - Bavaria is at the top (by far!), then Baden-Wuerttemberg, then Nordrhein-Westfalen (North Rhine - Westfalia). The bulk of beer produced in the German North is 'pils', and there are some pretty good ones, and one that is, indeed, excellent, a world classic, almost on a par with Pilsner Urquell. Good pilsners include Flensburger, the Astra beer from Bavaria Brauerei (a Hamburg brewery - not from the *state* of Bavaria!), and a few others. Beck's is, of course, pretty common, being brewed just down the highway in Bremen; Holstein is ultra-common (the biggest Hamburg brewery, if I remember correctly). The pils to beat, though, is Jever, the hoppiest and most flavourful beer produced up there, in the town of the same name. There is also a Haus- brauerei (brewpub) in Hamburg - the name escapes me at the moment, but I think it's known for its unfiltered pils. And In HOMEBREW Digest #952, Mike McNally sez: >A chance to correct Darryl Richman can't be passed up! Bayreuth is >east of Munich, not west. It is the home of Maisel as well as the >huge opera house constructed by Ludwig II (I think) for Wagnerian >productions. > >(Now watch somebody correct me ... ) Everybody watching ;-)? I already e-mailed the original poster (Brian Cole), and he reported getting a veritable flood of postings on this subject (as well as a burning desire to visit Franconia). Bayreuth is *not* west of Munich (sorry Darryl) and it ain't east of 'the world-city with a heart' either (sorry Mike). It's quite a way from Munich, actually, a good 2-and-a-half-hour ride on the Autobahn, even at German speeds (well, you could do it in under 2 hours if the traffic is light, there's no fog, etc, but optimum conditions like this are pretty rare in that part of Germany). In fact, it is well *north* of Munich, actually a bit north-east of Nuernburg; if you drive from Munich to, say, Berlin, Bayreuth is just a bit south of the half-way point on the Autobahn. And yes, Bayreuth is the home of Gebr. Maisel Bierbrauerei, home of Germany's 'steam beer' (Dampf- bier) and several other styles, all done quite nicely. And also a mecca for Wagner fans... Now here's an idea a-brewin'. How many of you brewers and beer-lovers in general would be interested in the idea of some kind of semi-organised tour to some of these German shrines to brewing? I've already done one holiday in Franconia, and wouldn't mind being the instigator for another one... Just a thought for now, although if there was enough interest (and people with the cash, time, and wherewithal for a German holiday), I could put together a trip that would, once and for all, set in the minds of at least fifteen or twenty participants, just what is meant by Germany, history, and most of all... beer! PROST! - -- Don | Verbosity leads to unclear, inarticulate dgs1300 at tahoma | things. ..!uunet!bcstec!tahoma!dgs1300 | -- Vice President Dan Quayle Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 15:57:00 CDT From: raudins at galt.b11.ingr.com (glenn raudins) Subject: Dark Malt Extract Brew In Issue 952: Bob Konigsberg asked about all Dark Malt Extract Brews. Actually, my third batch ever was an all Dark Extract batch. One of my best extract batches ever. If I remember correctly it contained the following: 3.3 lbs M&F Dark UnHopped 3.3 lbs M&F Dark Hopped 3 lbs Dark DME (might have been 1.5 lbs) 1 oz Hallertaur (60 min) 1 oz Hallertaur (2 min) 2 pkgs EDME dry yeast. Sorry, I don't have my recipes here. It was good enough that I had a roommate learn to brew to make it! It came out as a heavier American Dark. DeClerck's Textbook of Brewing: If anyone would like to part with their copies (v1 and/or v2) please contact me by mail and we can work something out. (Or if anyone knows where I might get the books.) Glenn Raudins raudins at b11.b11.ingr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 16:27:16 CDT From: Jacob Galley <gal2 at midway.uchicago.edu> Subject: Re: Labels, Chiller hose > Previously I've read here in the HBD to use milk, but I tried that with > little success - The labels seem to jump off of the bottles after a week. > > Thanks for the tip Mitch, > -Al I have found that milk works to varying degrees, depending on the type of paper (and maybe the type of milk, % fat). I have never had a problem when I add a bit < 1/8 t of conrstarch to the milk and mix it in with my finger. Also, you'll probably never get a label to stick to a bottle with condensation on it, using this method. Let me try my previous question again. Maybe my mailer is in a good mood today. I am planning on "building" a bath chiller by syphoning the hot wort through my bathtub full of ice-water. Should I not use standard "food grade" plastic tubing for this? How much insulation am I fighting if I do? How much does copper tubing cost anyway? Thanks, Jake. Reinheitsgebot <-- "Keep your laws off my beer!" <-- gal2 at midway.uchicago.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 13:03 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: YEAST CULTURE To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling I have been asked by several people about the need for a pressure cooker to sterilize equipment and media for yeast culture. Like so many things in this hobby, there are "correct" ways and ways that work just as well or at least well enough for our purposes and I think this is one of them. I really missed the target if people are turned off to culturing because they do not have or wish to purchase a pressure cooker. Rather than not do it, I would suggest using any large pot with a decent lid and about a half inch of water. Put the petri dishes or slants on or in a cup or some such support to keep them out of the water and steam them for twice the time recommended for a pressure cooker, i.e. 30 mins instead of 15. My guess is that no one will ever know the difference. The important thing is DO IT. There is no longer any excuse for using contaminated or recycled yeast. >From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> >It worked. Sort of. Before I use it again, I'm going to widen the slots. Since it siphons 7 gallons of plain water from the cooler in about 20 minutes, I am assuming that the slowness is at least partly due to the slots getting blocked by husks or grain particles. I think you are fighting the process that you so laboriously set out to create. The whole object is to create a filter, which by definition, will drain much slower than water through an empty cooler. You need patience not bigger holes or an.... no, I won't do it:) this time. >Any other suggestions or comments (preferably based on experience with a similar setup) would be appreciated. (Jack, I know about your system, but I want to try to collect over the entire bottom of the cooler, especially as it is longer than it is deep.) That is sort like trying to walk with two left shoes just because you happen to have two left shoes. >From: "Ron Fresne" <FRESNE at washpost.wdc.sri.com> >Subject: Re:siphoning >I never liked the idea of siphoning twice. So, as a primary, I use a 7 gal. plastic bucket with a spigot installed about .5-1" from the bottom. I place a board or some magazines under the spout during fermentation so that most of the sediment collects away from the outlet, and then when the kraeusen falls and I'm ready to rack, I tip the bucket forward slowly, attach a hose to the spigot, and open the valve. (Just as a precaution to keep creatures out of the spigot, I cover it with plastic wrap or a sterile plastic baby bottle liner--I have lots of these--until racking.) Another precaution you may not have thought of is to be sure that the connection between spigot and hose is tight. The smallest leak will provide a stream of air that will nicely oxygenate your beer at exactly the wrong point in the process. Since buying a new 16 gal brew kettle, I now use my ten gal for fermenting. It has one of those unmentionable things on the bottom and just makes brewing that much more easy. One less time to mess with a syphon. You learned faster that most of us. js Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 21:57:12 EDT From: hpfcla.fc.hp.com!digger!tcm Subject: Yeast and the nature of things A lot has been recently said about how the list used to be and I think that in many ways the list has certainly changed. It would be too simplistic to say that it is better or worse, it is different, enjoy it as it is. I for one miss messages from Cher Feinstein, even though I had no personal interest in mead, but her absence from the list ( and the world :-( ) are facts of life. It is inevitable that a forum such as this will introduce opinions that not everyone agrees with but we are free to pick and choose those we agree with and those we don't. I think the number and variety of textbooks on the subject is ample proof that even the "experts" don't always agree. If nothing else, this forum offers everyone a chance to discover tools and techniques they may never have found out on their own. If something works, tell us about it. If you see something here and it doesn't work, tell us about it too, but center your criticism around the thing, not the person who provided it. They will know, so will you, and others will be spared the embarassment of watching you quarrel. Now about the yeast. I posted a query awhile ago about dried yeast alternatives to Whitbread Ale, in light of this not being available anymore. Alas, no one had any help for me. Then this week, Great Fermentations' "Beverage People News" had a short piece on this and offered either Wyeast #1098 (the Whitbread yeast in liquid form) or "Nottingham" from Lallemand (a dry variety) as an alternative. Does anyone have experience with Lallemand's products? I use dry yeast because my brewing often occurs with little notice and liquid cultures require more preparation than I can give. Tom - ----- {rit,tropix,ur-valhalla}!moscom!digger!tcm DoD #1957 (BMW K75s) BMWMOA #59113 "Buying bigger bullwhips and going to war are known to increase productivity but are generally thought to have undesirable effects." - Michael Swain Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 10:00:53 edt From: michael at frank.polymer.uakron.edu (Micheal Yandrasits) Subject: re: siphon woes, an easy solution I think I have an easy solution to the "siphoning woes". When I siphon using a typical hard-white-platic-rod-with-a-red-cap-and-flexible-hose a small bubble forms at the junction of the two hoses, just past the bend, and will grow as the turbulence causes CO2 to be released. My solution is to pinch the hose as close to the junction point as possible then release. This causes the bubble to be carried with the beer all the way out the other end. It does not reform. I've siphoned brew at its most active stages of fermentation (usually to a larger carboy) with no trouble. It's counter-intuitive but it works. Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 10:05 EST From: Morris at drew.drew.edu, David R <DMORRIS at drew.drew.edu> Subject: First posting Date: 22-Aug-1992 09:46am EST From: Morris, David R DMORRIS Dept: Tel No: (201)-408-4816 TO: Remote INTERNET Address ( _IN%HOMEBREW at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM ) Subject: First posting This is my first time posting to this digest and I hope no one will mind if I ask some beginner's questions. I was recently introduced to homebrewing and haven't been able to stop thinking about whether it would be something I would enjoy. So I'm determined to give it a go. Thus, I'm posting here to ask about how to get started in homebrewing. First, I suppose I need to begin by getting the addresses of several homebrew catalogues. Would someone recommend one or two? I really don't think there's a homebrew grocer in my area (I've already checked the phone book). I reside in Madison, New Jersey. Second, I realize that there is no single "correct" way to brew beer as there are infinate ways to brew and even more recipies. Nevertheless, I am hoping for some suggestions on how to get started. Please send me some suggestions either in the digest or privately. I should say that I'm a graduate student with few funds. I live in married graduate housing which means my amount of space is limited. What about a small starter kit? For those interested, I would gladly provide my own hot salsa recipe (not in the digest, of course) in exchange for a good beginner's beer recipe. I can see it now--spending a weekend day concocting my salsa and brewing beer. Talk about healing! Incidentally, I've heard that beer is among the few beverages and foods which actually help counter the effects of hot peppers. Any feedback you have is appreciated. David-----DMORRIS at DREW.BITNET dmorris at drew.drew.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 15:48:20 -0600 From: klumpp at casbah.acns.nwu.edu (David Klumpp) Subject: more hydrometer woes I have noticed a different hydrometer phenomenon: when I measure density after racking to secondary and follow density progress daily, I find the density initially INCREASES after racking!!! Typically, sg increases ca. .008 within a couple days of racking, but then the level decreases as expected until fermentation is complete. I noticed this bizarre phenomenon during my very first batch and have consistently observed this for every batch thereafter (I'm currently working on batch #8). However, each of these batches have yielded excellent product as judged by myself and others, so I've learned to relax anyway. All of my brews have used 4-7lbs DME, Munton&Fison dry, Wyeast 1098 or Sierra Nevada Pale Ale yeast, and various adjunct grains. Here are the precautions I take to make sure I get accurate readings: 1. All reading are corrected to 60deg (using (X-60F)x.00025) 2. Temps are measured in the hydrom vial -- not the fermentor 3. The hydrom is tapped to release any clinging bubbles 4. The hydrom is pushed down several times and a reading taken each time the hydrom becomes stationary 5. The hydrom is not rinsed in H2O of extreme temps prior to use 6. The Hydrom reads 1.000+/-.002 in H2O If anyone has any ideas, please post or e-mail. Like I said, I've learned not to worry about this strange behavior. Thanks, Dave David Klumpp Dept of Biochemistry, Molecular Biology and Cell Biology Northwestern U. klumpp at casbah.acns.nwu.edu (708) 491-8358 lab (708) 491-5211 fax Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 92 16:56:00 EDT From: Arthur Delano <ajd at itl.itd.umich.edu> Subject: Bud keg setup help wanted Due to a combination of patience and serendipity, i now have an Anheuser-Busch keg and CO2 canister (for a net cost of $20!). I don't have any fittings, and before i buy any, i would like advice on what i need to get. While soda kegs seem to be common currency among homebrewers, i don't have one and i assume that the fittings are different. So... (1) What is the minimum easily-usable setup? (2) What special tools, if any, are going to be necessary? (3) From which vendor ought i get the remaining equipment? I already receive the Superior Products catalogue. AjD the keg is 7.5 gallons, so i shan't be making large batches for a while yet. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #954, 08/25/92