HOMEBREW Digest #960 Wed 02 September 1992

Digest #959 Digest #961

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Hydrogen peroxide to sanitize stuff. (Hiroki Morizono)
  Right beer for ______ (Theodore B. Samsel)
  Dry Hopping BudMilob (Alan Mayman)
  Cut off Digest ("Chris 'Man of Might' Dukes" )
  Halifax/Yeast Collaboration (Chris Estes)
  Maisel's Dampfbier (STROUD)
  Brewing Disasters (Norm Pyle)
  Jokes, efficiency revisited, Chore-Boy, cold break, Bev-Con kegs (man)
  oxidation vs. aeration, open fermentation (Jon Binkley)
  re: wooden kegs (Jon Binkley)
  siphon tube blues (Scott Murphy)
  Some Fun! (Jack Schmidling)
  Always doing as Jack says (Rob Bradley)
  brew info for Baltimore (taylor)
  "For a couple of pins," says Troll, and grins ... (Rob Bradley)
  Scottish Ale Recipe ("CBER::MRGATE::\"A1::RIDGELY\"")
  Christmas Ales - need a recipe (jay marshall 283-5903)
  Chuckm's Questions (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Crystalweiss, Oktoberfest, and Priming (Don Scheidt)
  Hunter Airstat  (bryan)
  RE: Propane Tanks (BMOORE)
  Another brewing mishap (chris campanelli)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 01 Sep 1992 02:49:33 -0600 From: hiroki at limerick.cbs.umn.edu (Hiroki Morizono) Subject: Hydrogen peroxide to sanitize stuff. I've been using peroxide (the kind you get in the drugstore, not the 30% stuff you can get in a lab) to sanitize my goodies lately, but I haven't read anywhere about it--I just clean out my bottles with water and a scrubber, then pour some peroxide into one, and shake, pour it out into the next, till I have enough for a batch. Then I just drain the excess, and put the bottles in a warm--not hot--oven till they dry. Probably breaks all the H2O2 into H20 as well. I wipe out my fermenter with a Kimwipe or paper towel soaked in fresh peroxide, and then rinse with boiling water. Gloves are important :-) ratty clothes are good too. I was wondering if anyone else does this--It's a lot easier than rinsing out bleach. Hiroki hiroki at limerick.cbs.umn.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1992 07:20:30 From: TBSAMSEL at qvarsa.er.usgs.gov (Theodore B. Samsel) Subject: Right beer for ______ Does anyone know of an authoritative published source on what beers go with what sort of food? Some homebrewers without net access were quibbling over this last night and I was asked to set this straight. Regards, Ted (TBSAMSEL at QVARSA.ER.USGS.GOV) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:21:59 -0400 From: Alan Mayman <maymanal at scvoting.fvo.osd.mil> Subject: Dry Hopping BudMilob Greetings Y'all, I recall from my dim and distant past, a post regarding dry hopping kegs of boring beer, like bud or something. Could the postee please send me some info on this subject including quantity/type of hops and how long you let it hopitize (yes I just made that word up), or any other useful info. Thanks in advance & many thanks to those who responded to my Woodruff question. - Alan "When in doubt, drink a homebrew" Mayman Return to table of contents
Date: 1 Sep 92 10:11:04 EDT From: "Chris 'Man of Might' Dukes" <imagesys!rover!CRD at uu.psi.com> Subject: Cut off Digest Can some helpful soul out there in digest land send me a copy of digest numbers 958 and 959. They keep getting cut off recently. Please send it directly to 'crd at imagesys.com'. Thanks- _______________________________ | -Chris Dukes crd at imagesys.com| | Tel:518-283-8783 Ext. 550 | | Fax:518-283-8790 | |_______________________________| Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:43:38 -0400 From: cestes at argos5.DNET.NASA.GOV (Chris Estes) Subject: Halifax/Yeast Collaboration Hi all... I've got two questios for the collective wisdom: 1) I'm going to be in Halifax, Nova Scotia in a few weeks. Are there any points of beer interest there? 2) Regarding the use of multiple strains of yeast... I'm planning on doing a barleywine soon and would like opinions on a strategy I've used before with good results. I previously made a barleywine using 12+ lbs of extract (syrup and grain combination). I was shooting for a high alcohol content, but with a traditional ale flavor. I pitched Whitbred ale yeast and let it ferment (actively) for 4-5 days. As this began to calm down I pitched champagne yeast (supposedly alcohol tolerant) to finish the job. My reasoning was thus: My normal ale yeast would make the beer taste like my usual ale, and the champagne yeast would further raise the alcohol level without affecting the taste TOO much. Am I wasting my time with such a procedure? Am I doing anything wrong? Is my reasoning (based purely on conjecture) anywhere close to reality? etc., etc., etc... -Chris- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 11:14 EST From: STROUD <STROUD%GAIA at leia.polaroid.com> Subject: Maisel's Dampfbier Well, we all know where Bayreuth is by now, don't we? Now if I could just figure out where Munich is........:-) The original posting about Maisel's products asked about the six-pointed star that occurs on the label of their Dampfbier. I don't believe that the question was answered. On page 13 of Michael Jackson's "The New World Guide to Beer" there is a picture of an engraving of a brewer whose head is surrounded by a six-pointed star. According to Jackson, the star is the symbol for alchemy and was frequently used by brewers. Certainly, it must have seemed magical to the average man that a brewer could take grain and turn it into ale. Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 09:17:57 MDT From: pyle at intellistor.com (Norm Pyle) Subject: Brewing Disasters Well, the "Brewing Disaster" thread sure petered out quickly. Only 2 disasters in the entire net.kingdom???? I thought this would be a fun way to show everyone how human we all are, but I guess most of the gang isn't (human, that is). Or they're just not as imperfect as some of us. C'mon folks, how about some fine tales of misery and destruction! It'll make you feel better... (for those without a funny bone: :-) ;-) 8'/............ Lest he thinks it went unnoticed: Mike Schrempp should join AAAA (awesome ascii artists of america)! Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:55 EDT From: man at kato.att.com Subject: Jokes, efficiency revisited, Chore-Boy, cold break, Bev-Con kegs In Hombrew Digest 959, Jack Schmidling says: >I think I had enough fun with this just to let it drop. Then, why didn't you let it drop? You just had to get the last word in, didn't you ? >Suffice it to say >that I took my lumps from my Milwaukee beer and thank those who defended it >and grin at those who trashed it. >And yes, "conspiracy" is a fun trigger word and all I can say from the >reaction is that it was either a lousy joke or a totally ineffective >conspiracy... take your pick. Come on, Jack. Your article about the "conspiracy" was not taken as a joke by this reader, nor by the others who I correspond with off-line. Whenever you get effectively proven wrong in this forum, you call foul, say "let it drop", and then say it was only a joke. Only this time, you left out the "I guess I need to use more smiley faces in my posts" part. Now for something new, revisited: Yield For a while now, I've been using points/lb/gallon. I realize this works best with a single grain type, but it can be adapted to mixed grain. Anyway, recently, Russ Gelinas said to use the theoretical maximums found in literature or (what he uses) the Brew Recipe Formulator. Now, I have this tool, but I hadn't used it yet. So I looked up Pale Ale Malt. It says 1.036. Is this the theoretical maximum ? Not according to Terry Foster in his Porter book, which I just reread. He says (talking about Pale Ale Malt and Klages, loosely paraphrased) "the best a homebrewer can hope to do is 36 points/lb/gallon, which is 80% of the theoretical maximum." This make the maximum 45. So, where are you people getting your maximums from ? I used the numbers in the BRF for my Porter and I get 96.6% efficiency. If I assume the numbers in there are really 80% of maximum, then I get 77.3% efficiency. This brings up the discussion of efficiency claims by people on the digest. When you say: "I let my sparge go 90 minutes one time and I got 90% efficiency. WOW!", is that 90% of the theoretical maximum or is it 90% of the implied homebrewers maximum ? For the record, my brew was a modified Redcoat's Revenge Porter: For 13 gallons (US): 20.75 lb Pale Lager Malt 1 lb 60L Crystal 1 lb Cara-Pils 1.2 lb Chocolate 5 oz Black 2.25 oz Chinnok 12.6 AAU 80 min 1 oz Cascade 10 min .75 oz Kent Golding steep WYeast American Ale OG 1.062 I had a 2.5 hour sparge (remember the brew length) I want to thank Kinney for his Chore-Boy/grain bag filter idea that I first read about, oh, 3 years ago. I tried it this time and there is no looking back. Using this method, there is no need to change your efficiency calculations to claim lost wort in the bottom of the brew kettle. You get every drop. Absolutely amazing. Now 2 questions. I began using a counterflow chiller 3 batches ago. The last two, I chilled into my mash tun to allow racking off of the cold break a few hours later. When I racked it, there was no break material. My wort out temp is 62F. How long does it take for the cold break to precipitate out ? I will add that I rack by opening the ball valve on the bottom of my mash tun. I realize it is possible that the break runs into the fermenter along with the wort, but something should be there. If it takes longer, then claims for immersion chillers having the advantage of racking off the cold break are probably over stated. Question 2: When I chilled my recent porter, my wort was oxegynated by liberal splashing. This caused much foam to appear that tasted extremely bitter. What is this stuff? Should it be allowed in the fermenter ? I've got something else to add: Bev-Con International sells new and used soda kegs. Right. Big news. But they sell 3 gal kegs for 29.50 and 10 gal kegs for 36.50. All plus shipping and $4 COD. They come with relief valves. I bought one of each. Good stuff. Well, I've rambled on enough. Mark Nevar Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:05:07 -0600 From: Jon Binkley <binkley at beagle.Colorado.EDU> Subject: oxidation vs. aeration, open fermentation CHUCKM at CSG3.Prime.COM wrote: >What is the difference between aeration and oxydation? Oxidation is a chemical reaction wherein one molecule loses electrons to another molecule. The former molecule is "oxidized" the latter molecule is "reduced." Frequently, the molecule causing the oxidation is oxygen itself; e.g. the oxygen gets reduced at the expense of your precious beer molecules, which get oxidized, and your beer tastes lousy as a result. For our concerns, oxidation happens when very hot wort is overexposed to oxygen, or when fermented-out beer is exposed to too much oxygen before botteling. Aeration is the process of introducing dissolved oxygen into a solution; i.e., it's a mixing, not a chemical reaction. You WANT to aerate your wort after it has cooled down. If you do it while it's hot, oxidation is promoted. Aerated wort helps the yeast get off to a good start; they need an aerobic growth phase to build their numbers before they go into anaerobic fermentation. >Some brewers use open fermenters (Anchor, Pilsner Urquell, etc). Why >don't they have sanitary problems. I would never think of fermenting >in the open, but Pilsner Urquell does it in caves with no apparent >problems.... Any comments? It's a numbers game. The brewers add a huge number of active yeast cells which get off to a quick start. There's no question that molds, bacteria, wild yeast, etc. fall into open fermentation tanks; but they are simply overwhelmed by the 10^6 to 10^9 fold excess of the desired yeast cells. After the beer is fermented out the alcohol suppresses most microbial growth. Another seeming paradox of open fermentation which confused me for quite some time is: given fermentation is an ANaerobic process, how can it take place in an open, aerobic environment? The answer is that our clever friends the yeast only turn on their mitochondria when they really need to. In a sugar rich environment (like unfermented wort) the yeast get all the energy they need from anerobic glycolysis (a.k.a. alcoholic fermentation). The beasts do a quick molecular cost/benefit analysis and decide that while aerobic respiration is possible, the extra energy obtained from it isn't worth the cost of building more mitochondria to do the dirty work. In a low sugar, aerobic environment, glycolysis alone won't provide sufficient energy and they fire up the ol' Krebs cycle. This applies to the "cell growth and maintenance" phase of the yeast cell cycle. When the yeast are in their heavy-duty reproduction phase, like right after you pitch them, they need the extra energy and so go into aerobic respiration, even at high sugar levels, until they reach a limiting cell density. Smart critters, huh? And you thought they just stupidly plodded along and made beer at your bidding! Jon Binkley Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:20:32 -0600 From: Jon Binkley <binkley at beagle.Colorado.EDU> Subject: re: wooden kegs <0004876702 at mcimail.com> (Rachel) wrote: >Does anyone use wooden kegs to store beer? >Would there be some taste advantage to doing so? How would >you make them clean enough to use? I've read in books >lamenting this century's loss of old-time country living in >Britain sorrowful remarks that no one uses wood anymore >only aluminium which (it is claimed) gives the beer a lifeless >quality. Sam Smith's still casks their beer in wood. They even employ coopers at their brewery to construct said casks. As for sanitation, they just scrub 'em out really good. As with all British "real ale" their cask conditioned products are intended to be consumed quickly- i.e., within weeks of kegging- so while the casks are probably infected the beer disappears too quickly for it to be a problem. Jon Binkley Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 92 09:52:31 MST From: scott at gordian.com (Scott Murphy) Subject: siphon tube blues I got those bubbles in my siphon tubeso. My bottle wand and racking tube are different diameters. Since I didn't realize that, I ended up stretching both ends of the tube. When I complained about the poor siphon to my local homebrew shop, He told me to put a little vasaline on the racking tube before adding the siphon tube. This works quite well. I always sanatize the racking tube after I put the vasaline on it. I have never had any infected brews. One problem is a tendency for the siphon tube to slip off. I just push it on farther than normal. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 09:01 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Some Fun! To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >From: gak at wrs.com (Richard Stueven) >>Note that this product contains a carcinogen (according to earlier >>posts). USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! >Will you guys knock it of about sassafrass already? I am not sure what your motive is but it seems to me that what must be "knocked off" is promoting the use of sassafrass as gathered in the natural state. Root beer producers either use synthetic substitutes or process the root to remove the carcinogen. Under NO circimstances should it be used unprocessed. >EVERYTHING IN THE WORLD is a carcinogen! There are thousands of carcinogens that the FDA just winks at because of political pressure. When one makes their black list, it is not to be triffled with. >We're all going to die anyway...let's have a little fun on our way. Dieing of cancer is not MY idea of fun. js Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 14:10:23 -0400 From: bradley at adx.adelphi.edu (Rob Bradley) Subject: Always doing as Jack says In HBD #959, I said > ... I've always done what Jack says, but ... Ooops! Please allow me to clarify: I have always included trub volume when calculating efficiency, in the manner which Jack described in #957. On the other hand, I have OFTEN neglected to follow the advice Jack gives on the HBD. Sorry for any confusion :-) Cheers, Rob (bradley at adx.adelphi.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 14:29:17 EDT From: taylor at e5sb.osdhw.syr.ge.com (taylor) Subject: brew info for Baltimore hi all, I'm going to a conference in Baltimore and was wondering if anybody has any information about brewpubs in the area or good beers to drink. Send me what ever info that can help thanks ... todd Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 14:24:59 -0400 From: bradley at adx.adelphi.edu (Rob Bradley) Subject: "For a couple of pins," says Troll, and grins ... Long ago and far away (12 years ago in England, to be precise) I worked for a while pulling pints in a pub. It was a Wadsworth's house. I recall we usually got 6X in kilderkins and Old Timer (seasonal) in firkins. If memory serves me correctly: 1 pin = 4.5 imperial gal. (=5.4 US gal, approx. 20.4 litres) 1 firkin = 2 pins 1 kilderkin = 2 firkins 1 barrel = 2 kilderkins 1 hogshead = 2 barrels Any mistakes here? Does the sequence continue? Cheers, Rob (bradley at adx.adelphi.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 14:52:47 -0400 (EDT) From: "CBER::MRGATE::\"A1::RIDGELY\"" at CBER.CBER.FDA.GOV Subject: Scottish Ale Recipe From: NAME: Bill Ridgely FUNC: HFB-300 TEL: FTS 402-1336 <RIDGELY at A1 at CBER> To: SMTP%"HOMEBREW at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM" at MRGATE at WPC This is in reply to Mike Gauland's posting of last week requesting a recipe for Scottish Ale. One of my all-too-numerous passions is for single malt Scotch whisky, and I belong to the Washington, DC organization called Cuideagh O Corn O Uisgebeathe (loosely, the Society of Tasters of Whisky). Most the meetings are dedicated to the fruits of the pot still, but once each year, we set aside a day for lighter fare and taste the Ales of Scotland. This partial-mash recipe is specially brewed for the occasion. It represents a "missing link" in what is actually a broad range of ales produced in Scotland, from the relatively low-alcohol 60 shilling (60/-) "Light" (with an O.G. of 1.030 - 1.034) to the traditional, full-bodied 90 shilling "Wee Heavy" (with an O.G. of 1.070 and above). In between these extremes are the 70/- "Heavy" (at O.G. 1.035-1.039) and the 80/- "Export" (at 1.040 - 1.052). Unfortuantely, no commercial beers of Scottish origin are available in the U.S. (at this time, anyway) in the 60/- and 70/- strength. Belhaven is the only one available at the 80/-. The 90/-'s, are fairly well represented by the old standard, McEwan's, as well as McAndrews (a somewhat paler version), and what I believe is still the most expensive beer available in the U.S., Traquair House, which retails for about $9 per 10 oz bottle (Cases can be had for a bit over $100 if your dealer is in a good mood). To my knowledge, there is no beer produced in Scotland in the gravity range of 1.055 - 1.070, so I made my own to 1.060 and called it "Wee Export". It uses traditional black malt for color and a bit of brown sugar to boost the sweetness (per the style). Also, the mash was conducted at a somewhat higher temperature to bring out unfermentable sugars, and the yeast had a relatively lower attneuation than some of the other standard ale yeasts on the market. The beer ages well and is still wonderfully drinkable after a full year in the bottle. Slainte! Bill Ridgely (RIDGELY at A1.CBER.FDA.GOV) "Better Living Through Better Drugs" Date: 01-Sep-1992 Posted-date: 01-Sep-1992 Author: BILL RIDGELY OLD BEULAH WEE EXPORT (An 85/- Scotch Ale) Ingredients for 5 Gal: 2 lb 2-row Klages Barley Malt 1/2 lb 60-L Crystal Malt 1/4 lb Black Patent Malt 1/4 lb Flaked Barley 5 lb Amber Malt Extract Syrup (I use American Classic brand) 1 lb Dark Brown Sugar 1 oz Northern Brewer Hop Pellets (6.5% AA) 2 oz Fuggles Hop Pellets (4.5% AA) 3 tsp Gypsum 1/4 tsp Irish Moss Wyeast #1028 London Ale Yeast (In 1 qt sterile wort starter) 3/4 cup Corn Sugar (For bottling) Step Mash (Temps in Degrees F) Crush grains and add to 3 qts water (with gypsum dissolved) at 130. Maintain mash temperature at 125 for 30 min (protein rest). Add 3 qts of boiling water to mash and maintain temperature at 158 for 1 hour (saccharification rest). Drain wort and sparge grains with 5 qts water at 170. Boil Add to the wort in the brewpot the malt extract and brown sugar. Bring to a boil. After 30 min. of boil, add 1/2 oz of Northern Brewer hops and 1/2 oz of Fuggles hops. After 15 more minutes, add an additional 1/2 oz of each hop. Boil for a total of 1 1/2 hours. Ten minutes before the end of the boil, add the Irish moss. Five minutes before the end of the boil, add 1 oz of Fuggles hops (for aroma). Fermentation Cool the wort with a wort chiller and add to the primary fermenter with sufficient water to make 5 gallons. Pitch yeast when temp of wort is below 75. Ferment at 65 for 5 days. Rack to secondary and ferment for 15 more days at 65. Bulk prime with corn sugar before bottling. OG - 1.060 FG - 1.015 Alcohol - 6.0% vol (4.8% wt) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 13:59:53 CDT From: jay marshall 283-5903 <marshall at sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov> Subject: Christmas Ales - need a recipe I would like to start a spiced Christmas Ale pretty soon and am looking for a recipe that approximates Sam Smiths Winterfest (I think that's the right name, anyway). I would prefer an all grain recipe, and something that is fairly light on the cloves and ginger. Also, will this mellow out properly in time for November/December drinking, or am I behind the power curve? thanks in advance, Jay Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 12:20:12 PDT From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at PacBell.COM> Subject: Chuckm's Questions In HOMEBREW Digest #959, CHUCKM asked: > 1. What is the difference between aeration and oxydation? Aeration is the process of dissolving air into a solution (wort, in this context). It is not a chemical change. Oxidation, on the other hand, _is_ a chemical change. Aeration is required if you need to increase the population of yeast in the ferment, as we all do, unless you're pitching massive gobs of yeast. Oxidation, on the other hand, is worth avoiding. The specific compounds that can be the most troublesome are the melanoidins, pigments produced in the malting and mashing processes. They tend to mediate the oxidation of alcohols into aldehydes, so it's in our best interests to have them in the reduced state. If the wort is cool or cold, it can be aerated without oxidizing the melanoidins. If it's hot ... The best treatment of the subject that I've seen is in George Fix's "Principles of Brewing Science", which, I believe, should be on every homebrewer's bookshelf. > 2. Re: Sanitation.... How do the breweries handle this? Do they ever > get bad batches that they must dump or do they have some magic way > of salvaging.... Sure, it happens. The Big Guys constantly sample the unfinished beer, and all have thresholds for a variety of biological contaminants, beyond which the beer is sewered. If the infection is less severe but still detectable, the beer is blended to dilute the defect below sensory thresholds. > Some brewers use open fermenters (Anchor, Pilsner Urquell, etc). Why > don't they have sanitary problems. I would never think of fermenting > in the open, but Pilsner Urquell does it in caves with no apparent > problems.... Any comments? Sure. Anchor has all their fermentors in rooms fed by positive-pressure, sterile-filtered air. Not much is likely to go wrong there. Concerning the many breweries using open fermentors without such precautions, consider this: hop tolerance is not all that common among microbiota. If the resident critters are not hop tolerant they may fall in the wort, but they'll die micro-screaming. If they make no contribution at all, the brewer will see no reason to go to closed fermentation. In some cases, the contribution they make can actually be positive, and there are quite a few Belgian breweries that specifically exploit the environmental biota. > 3. How is alpha acid content measured and Can I easily do it at home for > my home grown hops. The "Readers' Digest" answer is no, you can't do it. Anyone who comes up with a really excellent way to do this that doesn't require a home-grower's entire crop will have the undying gratitude of thousands. Well, maybe dozens. Well, maybe you and I and a couple of others ... > Will the AA content of homegrown hops vary significantly > from the published ranges for a given species. You can take that to the bank. In most cases, it will be much higher in your homegrown hops than in the commercial equivalents. The most experienced hop grower in our club says it will be twice as high, but his hops are so outstanding that I suspect him of trafficking with Dark Powers ... = Martin A. Lodahl Pacific*Bell Systems Analyst = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:04:54 PDT From: tahoma!dgs1300 at bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Don Scheidt) Subject: Crystalweiss, Oktoberfest, and Priming In HOMEBREW Digest #959, inquiring minds wanted to know! :-) andre vignos <andre at Think.COM> asks: >Subject: recipe wanted > > > The last time I was in germany, the 1986 octoberfest, I stopped up in >Bamberg Germany to pick up a friend who was stationed there. We stayed a >couple nights in the area and sampled some quality brew. There was one type >that I absolutely loved but I have never seen any bottled form of it, much >less a brewpub that serves it. It is served with a thin lemon slice in a >pilsner glass and is a wheat beer known as "crystalweissen". Being german I >understand what the name means(doesn't take a genious). What I was wondering >was, does any body have a recipe for said beer? I'm truly amazed that the brew you mentioned was _not_ Schlenkerla Rauch- bier. Kristallweizen (or "crystalweissen") is just your standard clarified Bavarian wheat beer, "kristall" referring to the crystal-clarity of the pure golden (usually) brew, and there are plenty of examples of those in Bavaria, especially southern Bavaria and (of course) Munich. Franconian examples also are numerous, including Tucher, EKU, and Wurzburger Hofbrau. Part of the secret is the wheat/barley proportion in the malt - the wheat gives the beer that distinct tangy flavour - but the real secret lies in the yeast. You can use any of a number of extract-based or full-mash recipes to make a good, basic pale-golden wort, and after cooling, pitch with the S. delbrueckii yeast. Wyeast #3056 is a mixture of a more common top-fermenting strain with S. delbrueckii, and the results will vary a bit, but you can come close by using moderately elevated fermenting temperatures (especially during the primary) to get all those esters and phenolics forming. By the way, it is not at all inappropriate to refer to these beers as "deliberately infected" - but this is deliberate in the same way that Berliner Weisse is deliberately infected with Lactobacillus. The end result is unique flavour, and deliberately encouraging the beer to form flavouring compounds you may normally try to avoid. See Dave Miller's latest book - among the many recipes for all the world's beer styles, he gives both extract-based and full-mash recipes for a good, estery Bavarian-style wheat beer. Whether you want to clarify / filter it to obtain a true "kristallweissen" is entirely up to you! avalon!jm at siemens.siemens.com (Jeff Mizener) asks: >Subject: Oktoberfest, priming & siphoning > >First, travel question: > > When is Oktoberfest (the one in Munich)? Oktoberfest ENDS on the first Sunday in October, and begins two weeks before that. That puts it at September 20 to October 4 this year. >When people bulk prime, they add (something sweet) to the beer in the >fermenter. Then they presumably stir it up. Which causes all sorts >of gunk to be stirred up from the bottom. Do we all solve this problem >by racking first to another container? (Primary > secondary > priming vessel?) >Or what? Primary > secondary > priming vessel is indeed the answer, and although we are usually trying to avoid oxidatation, judicious and careful racking of the fermented wort into a priming vessel is useful, and not at all a bad idea. While the beer is siphoning out of the secondary (a carboy in my case), one can slowly add the sterile ('cause it was just boiled :=) priming solution to the wort as it fills the priming bucket, obtaining (usually) a reasonably even distribution of the priming sugar into the almost-beer. This assumes bottling, of course, and I make the assumption here that there is no CO2-based equipment lying around, which changes the rules a bit, especially if you have a kegging operation. See y'all in a couple of weeks - I'm off to Central Europe for history, culture, and a lot of mighty fine beer-drinking! U Fleku, here I come! :-) - -- Don | Verbosity leads to unclear, inarticulate dgs1300 at tahoma | things. ..!uunet!bcstec!tahoma!dgs1300 | -- Vice President Dan Quayle Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 92 15:09:56 PDT From: bryan at tekgen.bv.tek.com Subject: Hunter Airstat The number for American Scientific Surplus is 708-475-8440. NOT -8840. Thanks for posting anyway Larry, it got me off my duff and I ordered one. And I'm going to look at a chest freezer tonight. They are a surplus house, when these are gone they may not have any more. Bryan Olson Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 92 07:42 From: sherpa2!BMOORE.ELDEC%mailsrv2 at sunup.West.Sun.COM (BMOORE) Subject: RE: Propane Tanks Another note regarding propane cookers and tanks: NEVER, NEVER store your propane tank inside your house. When finished brewing, banish the tank to the porch, patio or the flower beds! Propane tank valves contain an overpressure relief pop-off valve. This valve will vent propane if the tank is relatively full of liquid (which is incompressable) and it gets too hot (the liquid expands). If such venting occurs indoors, vapors can collect in a low spot and need only a source of ignition before...KABOOM! By the way, the same advice applies to car trunks... If you get your tank filled, throw it in the trunk and leave the car parked in the sun, overpressure venting can occur... with the same results! Happy Brewing! Barry Moore (sherpa2!bmoore at sunup.west.sun.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 13:04 CDT From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli) Subject: Another brewing mishap Talking about brewing mishaps? Stand back and gimme some room! Once upon a time i was making some yeast starters. Pretty simple process. Make some wort, fill up some mason jars and boil in a water bath. A real no-brainer. At that particular time my setup was spread out. I would prep the masons in the kitchen and at the same time boil the wort in the basement. When ready, I would bring the wort upstairs into the kitchen to fill the masons. The basement stairs are positioned such that they come up from the basement and meet a landing with the back door, so you can literally walk up the stairs and straight out the back door. On that fateful day as I was carrying the four gallons of boiling wort up the stairs, I was thinking to myself "Boy it sure would be a mess if I dropped this pot". No sooner, I stumbled near the top of the stairs, dropping the you-know-what on the landing. It's interesting how the mind works in life-threatening situations. Everything seems to move in slow motion. Its as if the brain can't believe the mess that the body has gotten the two into so the brain decides to slow down the visual images as some form of mental denial. I watched the pot hit the floor and dump out in slow motion. The pot spilled in such a way as to release the wort in one mass. As this Wave of Wort moved away from me and crested towards the back door, I thought to myself "If I open it, they will come". Roughly translated, if the back door is open the wort should proceed to flow out the door into the backyard, saving me much cleanup. The back door was already open but the storm door wasn't. So I quickly vaulted over the Wave of Wort, fully expecting to land face-to-face with the storm door and simultaneously hitting the door latch so as to have my momentum push the door open thereby allowing the door, myself and the Wave to pass through the doorway in said order. As I landed at the storm door and hit the latch, it became apparent that the storm door was locked. My momentum was such as to carry me not through the doorway as expected but smack into the storm door. Thus, having formally introduced my face to the storm door, I proceeded to unlock and open the storm door, exit the house and remove myself to higher ground. Yet to my shock and horror the doorsill was too high for the Wave of Wort to pass over so with somewhat weaker force yet equal determination the Wave reversed course and proceeded towards the basement stairs. It is at this point that I admitted defeat, realizing that some higher force was at work against me. I watched with remorse as the wort flowed down the stairs, cascading from step to step like some perverse Slinky. I cursed all within earshot. I even cursed my old nemesis Sister Sharon, my Catholic grade school principle. Only a quart or so reached the drain near the bottom of the stairs. The rest of the wort had coated the stairs and the workshelves under the stairs. The dry cat food in the dish on the floor near the steps was no longer dry. Damage assessment after the flood was painful. For tripping UP the stairs I received a gouge on the shin and a black-and-blue big toe. For kissing the storm door I received a bloody nose and one pair of bent eyeglasses. For ineptitude I lost one can of extract. For General Principle I received one wasted afternoon. chris campanelli FOLLOW-UP: This occurred in winter. Come spring, the ants not only found what dried wort I had missed during cleanup but proceeded to tell all their friends within a five mile radius. It got so bad we had to call a professional exterminator. The house stank from insecticide for a week. Needless to say, ALL brewing related activities have been banished to the garage. :( Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #960, 09/02/92