HOMEBREW Digest #974 Tue 22 September 1992

Digest #973 Digest #975

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Barley Wine (Phillip Porch)
  Malt Beverage (Stephen Woolverton)
  Styrian hops - how are they? (Stefan Karlsson)
  Hunter Instructions Needed ("Roger Deschner 6-9433")
  I Need the Opinion of Certified Homebrew Judges (919) 541-7340" <FP$JEFF at RCC.RTI.ORG>
  old bay (dave ballard)
  1007,crystal (Russ Gelinas)
  Brewing in Belgium/Bananabrau (Phillip Seitz)
  Wyeast #1056 (Mike Mahler)
  primimg (ZLPAJGN)
  Mill control ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  the world's greatest beer (FWALTER)
  Wyeast vs. Dry (korz)
  invert sugar (Bart Lipkens)
  Re: Questions part II (Mark Wells Wilson)
  PPM, God, Right (Jack Schmidling)
  pre-gound malt (Brian Bliss)
  Swedish beers (CW06GST)
  All about Beer, Hoegarten wheat (Paul AndersEn                       )
  Boston Visit (Richard Stueven)
  Kegs (Robert Pulliam)
  Carboys and plastic water jugs (Peter Nesbitt)
  Incredibly good extraction rate (Josh Grosse)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 20 Sep 92 15:36:03 CDT From: mjbtn!raider!theporch.raidernet.com!root at uunet.UU.NET (Phillip Porch) Subject: Barley Wine A group of intermediate brewers is getting ready to make a batch of barley wine. In the recipe in Dave Miller's book calls for the addition of 1 pound of brown sugar to bring the sugar content up. We would like to know from you out there who brew barley wine if this is the best thing to add or would something else be better. The recipe calls for : 7 lbs pale ale malt 8 oz. British crystal malt and 1 lb light brown sugar This makes 2 gallons. - -- +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Phillip Porch voice: (615)297-4256 root at theporch.raidernet.com | | Nashville, Tn modem: (615)297-7951 Compuserve 70206,572 | | MacInteresteds The Macintosh User Group of Nashville Genie PPORCH | +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 92 14:23:43 CDT From: mjbtn!raider!theporch.raidernet.com!swoolve at uunet.UU.NET (Stephen Woolverton) Subject: Malt Beverage Have you seen those non-alcoholic beers? Well I tried each one with open mind and mouth. ...and to my surprise they were all about as good as Coor's Light, maybe better! I have found a non-alcoholic beer (malt beverage) that is worth a try: MALTA INDIA "Brewed from water & the choicest barley malt. corn sugar. corn & hops." " 'Non-alcoholic-contains less than 0.5% alcohol by volume.' " produced for Cerveceria India, Inc. of Puerto Rico by The Lion Inc. Malta India is _very_ malt and almost too sweet. If you can find it, try it. Stephen Woolverton WoolveSR at ctrvax.Vanderbilt.edu SWoolve at thePorch.raidernet.com 3210 Overlook Drive, Nashville, TN 37212 615/297-2705 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 11:08:46 +0200 From: Stefan Karlsson <stefank at math.chalmers.se> Subject: Styrian hops - how are they? I went to my brewshop the other day buying ingridients for some sort of Altbier. As they for the moment was out of Hallertauer hops I was recommended Styrian as a substitute. Is there sombody out there who has experience, alpha-content information, opinions, et.c. please let me know. A good Alt recipe may make me change my own presumptive one (it's just some vague idea in my head for the moment, but it'll be mostly extract with some crystal and perhaps some of my stocasticly experimentally made not-malt-but-slightly-malted- and-then-roasted wheat.) Stefan Karlsson stefank at math.chalmers.se Return to table of contents
Date: 21 September 1992 07:03:31 CDT From: "Roger Deschner 6-9433" <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Hunter Instructions Needed I got what was apparently the last Hunter Energy Monitor from American Science Center on Saturday. It came completely without instructions. Does anybody out there have the instruction sheet which they could photocopy and mail? Send e-mail directly to me if you've got it. Thanks! Roger Deschner, u52983 at uicvm.uic.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Sep 1992 09:21:27 -0400 (EDT) From: "Jeff McCartney (919) 541-7340" <FP$JEFF at RCC.RTI.ORG> Subject: I Need the Opinion of Certified Homebrew Judges HELP! I need some advice from certified homebrew judges!!! I'm entering a beer of mine into a local homebrew competition. My recipe approximates Old Peculier. A similar batch I brewed in 1987 but entered in last years's competition took first place in the stouts as a sweet stout. Thus, I feel compelled to enter this one (which in my opinion is better than the one I entered last year). I recently told a friend I had a sweet stout for him to try and he tasted it and said "it tastes just like Old Peculier to me!" I then decided to examine my books and back issues of Zymurgy. Papazian, in The New Joy of Home Brewing (p.142) classifies Old Peculier as a Brown Ale. The Special 1991 (Vol. 14. No.4) issue of Zymurgy classifies it as an English Old Ale or English Strong Ale. Michael Jackson's Pocket Guide to Beer (first printing 1982) classifies it as a strong ale. Here is my problem: if I enter it according to the National Homebrew Regulations as a class 7a (English Old Ale/Strong Ale), the definition says "light amber to deep amber/copper)". Old Peculier is dark brown! Will the judges take off points and say "color not appropriate for style"? Our competition is such that each category will have at least one certified judge per category working with other non-certified judges. I know from experience that when in doubt, the judges consult the guidelines and if they don't know from experience that Old Peculier is a dark brown English Old Ale/Strong Ale, they will read the blurb and say "color not appropriate for style". Because this is a local competion which helps my brewclub, I'm not writing this to get a leg up for a prize. I'm more interested in how this might be dealt with in a national competition by all certified judges. Any comments? Similarly, because I'm an extract brewer, my light lagers don't turn out as light as the style suggests. For example, I've brewed several quality pilsners but because they are amber in color, I've had to enter them as Vienna! Now if I were a commercial brewer and I produced an amber pilsner, the critics would say I had an amber pilsner. This would then be documented as an "acceptable" (although not preferred) exception to the color code for a pilsner. Then, if a homebrewer entered his beer as an amber pilsner the judges could say "well, yes, because Brewery ABC brews a pilsner similar in color to this guy's pilsner, I won't take off points". This message has taken up plenty of space. I'd advise writing me with comments directly at INTERNET::"FP$JEFF at ZEUS.RTI.ORG" or FP$JEFF at RTI for BITNET. Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Sep 1992 9:13 EDT From: dab at blitzen.cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard) Subject: old bay Hey now- Just wanted to turn you all on to some upcoming happenings at The Old Bay restaurant in New Brunswick, NJ. October 3rd- Octoberfest Celebration, Noon - 4 PM $3 Admission, Free German buffet October 7th- Stoudt's Night with special brewery guests October 17th- Red Bank Homebrewing talk and mashing demo Noon - 4 PM, announcement of holiday brew competition Please note that I have no financial interest in Old Bay (I wish I did), it's just a cool place to hang. Now that Rutgers is back in session it gets a little crowded with bud-swilling students (hey, we were all young once) but there are usually some homebrewers hanging around as well as the guys from Red Bank Brewing Supply. I understand they're getting Stoudt's Octoberfest, Anchor 1992 Holiday Ale and Old Foghorn, and Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale on tap towards the end of the year. see you there dab ========================================================================= dave ballard dab at cc.bellcore.com ========================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1992 9:53:04 -0400 (EDT) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: 1007,crystal For those asking about a 1007 timeframe: brewed on 8/28, kegged on 9/6, gone on 9/18. The brew (a brown porter) was clear on about 9/11. So it cleared in about 2 weeks. I agree with Walt(?) that 1338 would be better for Alt/Kolsch; 1007 left the beer just a little too dry. *Very* clean though. I've run across a source of M&F crystal (British) and won't go back to US crystal. The difference is like Bass vs. Pabst, well maybe not, but the M&F has much more character. RG Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 13:45 GMT From: Phillip Seitz <0004531571 at mcimail.com> Subject: Brewing in Belgium/Bananabrau On October 1 I'll be taking off on a trip that will include a week in Belgium. This will be my sixth trip there, but all the previous tours took place in a former life (i.e., before I started brewing). On the itinerary are tours of several breweries (probably Brasserie de Bocq and La Bincheoise), and in addition to this my Belgian friends are setting up a brewing session with a friend of theirs who is establishing a brewpub. As you might imagine, I plan to gather as much information as possible without actually stealing trade secrets. I'm therefore making up a list of things to ask about, and would be happy for any help from the HBD community. The question list so far: Use of candy sugars (particularly relating to quantity) Availability of yeasts Use and handling of unmalted grains Fermentation temperatures Mashing procedures Bottle-conditioning procedures Use of fruits These are quite general, of course. I therefore welcome questions from anybody who's interested, which I will compile and take with me, and I will be happy to post anything I learn as a result of this. I should offer the disclaimer that I haven't sampled the brew pubs wares yet, and have no idea whether the people I'll be seeing will be able to answer everything. I should also add that any info gathered will be limited by my own ignorance. Still, I'm hopeful. I do speak French, and will probably be focusing on breweries in Wallonie. However, my French-language brewing vocabulary is limited at the moment to basic brewing ingredients. If there's anybody out there who can help me out I'd be most appreciative (Pierre Jelenc, vous etes la?). Lastly, I read Todd Enders report on Wyeast/Banana with some interest. I've just sampled my (very young) Bananbrau, and found that the banana flavors were quite pleasant and not out of line at all. The yeast provides several different tastes, and the banana is just one of them. Overall I'd say the predominant yeast flavor is more caramel/cognac, similar in a way to Chimay Bleu (Grande Reserve). I don't think I have any qualms about using it again. Phil Seitz (PSEITZ at MCIMAIL.COM) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 10:14:02 EDT From: mm at workgroup.com (Mike Mahler) Subject: Wyeast #1056 I used this used in about 5 batches, starting with a steam and I concur that it starts off smoothly and ferments over the course of a week in the primary and also it seems to leave very little behind. The beers are usually drier than most and crisp and SEEM less filling, but it could be the recipes I've used it in since they've all bent towards lighter beers. I've also used Wyest Bohemian in another batch and it had the same characterstics. My fav yeast with regards to little lag time and nice finish is WHitberead Ale yeast. I've heard a rumor that they are not going to make it anymore, does anyone know if it's true? It works great on some stout recipes I've made. MIchael Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 09:28 CDT From: ZLPAJGN%LUCCPUA.bitnet at UICVM.UIC.EDU Subject: primimg Dear Brewers Just a quick question: is there an advantage to using dry malt extract as priming before bottling, rather than sugar? My (limited) experience has been that corn sugar can produce an off flavor - cidery? - but that has been when I've used it as part of the boil. Any reactions? Cheers! John Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 11:11:20 EDT From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: Mill control I had a chance yesterday to directly compare grain milled with a MaltMill(tm) to grain "professionally" milled. We were giving a brewing demonstration at the Renaissance Festival in Holly, MI (still going for one more weekend). Pale malt was supplied by the sponsor, Frankenmuth Brewing Co. I am not sure whether they mill their own, or have their supplier (Briess) do it for them. We brought some crystal malt that one of us had crushed using a MaltMill(tm) at the shop. The grain from Frankenmuth had a very nice crush, with basically unmangled husks (as desired). So did that from the MaltMill(tm). However, the particles in the MaltMill(tm) crush were about twice as large (in "width", so 8 times the volume). Whether this makes a real difference, I am not competent to say. As far as results go, we used 16# pale malt and 1.25# crystal, with a total extract efficiency of about 32pts/lb/gal (in 10 gal). =Spencer W. Thomas | Info Tech and Networking, B1911 CFOB, 0704 "Genome Informatician" | Univ of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109 Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu | 313-747-2778, FAX 313-764-4133 Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Sep 1992 11:31:58 -0400 (EDT) From: FWALTER%RULUPI at ccmail.sunysb.edu Subject: the world's greatest beer I've been ruminating about some of the editorial comments that have passed through this digest over the past few months. I fear that some beginners may be getting the wrong message. There is no single best way to make beer, and even with relatively simple techniques one can brew a good, nay, great beer. Does it really matter whether you go all-grain, extract, or kit? Does it really matter whether you use liquid or dry yeast? Does it really matter whether you bottle or keg? Does it really matter whether your beer is enough of a clone of a defined style to win a prestigious competition? Clearly to some it does matter, but to me and my more relaxed bretheren, what matters is: 1.) Do you enjoy making the beer? 2.) Do you and your friends enjoy drinking the beer? If you can answer yes to both, then why worry? Every homebrewer can honestly say "I BREW THE WORLD'S GREATEST BEER". Fred - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The author has been an extract/specialty grain brewer for 9 years, with about 60 batches to his credit. All have tasted great and been more filling. The author uses dried yeast (ale in the summer, lager in the winter), relies on the thermal mass of a concrete basement for temperature control, bleach for sanitation, a rolling pin for cracking grains, and elbow grease to remove old bottel labels. _______________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 10:57 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Wyeast vs. Dry I've found just the opposite of what Russ posted -- In general, I've found that the dry yeasts that I've used (Muntona, Bierkeller, Geordie, Old Danish, and Doric Lager) are more attenuative than most Wyeast strains. Secondly, I've found that the liquid yeasts are very predictable and bacteria-free, whereas the brews made with dry yeasts have invariably eventually become gushers. Mind you, these were not pure-cultured versions of the dry yeasts, rather simply rehydrated straight from the package and then pitched. Although I've never used it, I've read that Edme Ale yeast is one of the most attenuative yeasts you can buy. Whereas with Wyeast #1028, London Ale yeast, I've been able to brew beers with a relatively high residual sweetness, without adding any non-fermentable sugars (like lactose). Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 11:39:11 -0500 From: lipkens at ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bart Lipkens) Subject: invert sugar Hi brewers, I was going through David Line's recipe book, and noticed that a lot of the recipes call for invert sugar. I have looked it up but did not found an answer. What is it? Can we buy it in the States or substitute for it with another sugar? Thanks for your help. Bart Lipkens Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1992 13:22:02 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Wells Wilson <mw4w+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Re: Questions part II Peter Nesbitt writes: > - I'm having trouble finding true long-necks. Should I absolutely not use > twist off bottles? I've asked almost every eating establishment in town, > but they will not give up their returnables. Just go to your friendly neighborhood beer distributer (look 'em up in the yellow pages) and ask for X cases of returnable bottles. They'll probably charge you a ten cent deposit. It's not a good idea to use twist-offs because a) you can't cap them with a hand capper and b) the walls are thinner than on returnables and thus more likely to explode under the pressure of over-carbonation if you screw something up in your beer. By the way, I've found Coors light and Stroh's labels to be the easiest to get off (It's your beer, remember?) and Miller Lite all but impossible. High Life and Genuine draft come in clear bottles, which you don't want, either. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 09:01 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: PPM, God, Right To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >From: korz at iepubj.att.com >Subject: mg/l vs ppm >Regarding conversion from mg/l to ppm, this question came up a year or two ago and a lot of people were unsure about it, but my favorite answer from that discussion was: multiply by 1 to convert from mg/l to ppm and divide by 1 to convert back (actually, I had to think for a moment to make sure the two are one-in-the-same ratio). This is getting a bit overworked but another way of looking at it is: one in a million is the same as a thousandth (mili) of a thousand (liter=1000 ml). Hmm, this always made sense till I tried to spell it out. Oh, well... I think we have enough opinions on this erudite subject already. >From: guy at mspe5.b11.ingr.com (Guy D. McConnell) >Subject: Miller Reserve Draft >I saw Miller Reserve All Barley Draft in a local Brunos store the other day. While I don't expect it to be the best beer I've ever had, I intend to try it. You can save yourself the trouble. It is not only NOT the best beer you have ever had but it is just about indistinguishable from all the other rubbish they call beer. >Now Miller is bringing it back in Miller Reserve All Barley Draft. It's an idea whose time has come around again" or something to that effect. So now they're taking credit for "reviving" beer made the way God intended. Not sure how your god makes beer but mine would send them straight to hell after washing their mouth out with soap for lieing. The only way one could make all barley beer that tasteless is to dilute it about 10:1 with water and fortify it with alcohol. >From: jim busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> >Subject: "Right equipment" and yeast >If this is the way jack feels, I suggest he invest (well spent money) in a stainless steel perforated sheet false bottom for his lauter tun. These are commercially available in 16 gauge thickness, I forget the hole size. I got mine in Portland for $50 and had a local shop spot weld legs on it. This screen with a bottom outlet will increase the yield per pound significantly over the double bucket method and I suspect the easy mash through a screen method. Of course, you will have to recirculate the runoff for 10-15 minutes to clarify. Not sure how to respond to this without being accused of commercialization again. I guess if I leave out the upper case letters, that will have to do. My very first batch of all grain was made (attempted) with exactly such a device. A 16 inch SS plate with a zillion holes punched in it and copper feet screwed into it. Not sure what 16 gauge is but I could stand on mine. To make doubly sure there could be no problems, I built the screen gizzmo (described elsewhere) to keep anything, that got through, out of the spigot. It created no end of problems on the very first batch. Mash got under it and scorching was just about impossible to control. So in disgust, I pulled it out, continued the mash and assumed a disaster was at hand. Much to my incredulous delight, when I opened the spigot, the wort ran clear after about 3 oz of turbid runnoff. I have since made about 30 batches using only the screen gizzmo and get very consistent and respectable extract yields. What I ended up with is a complete system in a single kettle. I mash and sparge in the same kettle with no need to transfer anything, anywhere and have total control over the temp during the entire process. One can boil and later ferment in the same kettle without having to hassle with hops and grain getting stuck in the spigot or siphon. I now have a 16 gallon kettle for boiling so I don't have to store wort while cleaning out kettles. So, the bottom line is, the "right" equipment is not always obvious and is the reason we all read these fora to get new ideas. If anyone wants more info on this process, email to me. Yes, there is a teeny commercial at the end but the process is detailed and a parts list is furnished so you can get the stuff at a hardware store. js Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 13:34:16 CDT From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: pre-gound malt Another thing to watch out for: If you buy your malt pre-ground in large quantities, the husks can sift to the top while the cracked grain/endosperm settle to the bottom. You then take enough from the top for the first batch, and you get no problems with runoff because of the large amount of intact husk material, but your efficiency seems low since much of the goddies settled to the bottom of the bag. toward the bottom, there will be a higher percentage of finely- cracked grain, with few husks intact. Your sparge will be much slower, but your efficiency seems better (assumming that you get the sparge to work at all.) bb Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 14:40:42 EDT From: CW06GST <CW06GST%SJUMUSIC.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Swedish beers Recently, I asked about a Swedish beer called Gammel Brygd made by the Falocon Brewery. Thanks to those of you who answered some of my questions. What I would like to do now is try to formulate a recipe that might approximate Falcon Gammel Brygd. The last time I had it I remeber it being dark and sweet and very malty without much hoppiness (Kurt?). Here's my idea for making Falcon Gammel Brygd: Fakin' Gammel Brygd 6-7 lbs German? dark malt extract syrup (Bierkeller maybe?) 1 lbcrystal malt 1/2 lb chocolate malt 0-2 cupsbrown sugar (just guessing) 1 oz Hallertaur hops (boiling) 1/2 oz Goldings hops (finishing) lager yeast (any suggestions) I do not have much experience with lager yeast, so any help in this area would be greatly appreciated, i.e. brand, type, fermenting temperature, lagering time. For a dark beer I would figure on a fairly long boil, say at least 45 minutes. Also, there has been a lot of talk lately about Christmas beers (I guess it's time to get busy). I have an idea for a Christmas ale that I would like to run by everyone. Gl:gg Beer 5lbs light American malt extract syrup (brand?) up to 1lb crystal malt up to 1lb light honey 1 oz mild hops - fairlylow bittering (suggestions please) some type of ale yeast Right about now you should be saying: "what is this guy thinking? Why is this a Christmas beer?" This is where I need some help. My bright idea is to add glogg essence. In Sweden, at Christmas time, they make a soiced wine that is served warm with almonds and raisins and is given to guests when they come in from the cold. Glogg can be bought at the liquor store or you can buy the essence and add it to red wine with sugar and vodka (vodka is optional). I have in my possesion several bottles of glogg essence and would like to spice my beer with it. When you open a bottle of this stuff and take a whiff you can just about hear Bing Crosby sing "White Christmas". It contains cardamom, cinnamon and several other spices that don't translate well, in a 65% alcohol base. When I use it to make glogg I use about 25ml for 1 gallon of red wine. It comes out very heavily spiced, a little to spiced for beer. What I was going to try was to add 45ml (3 bottles) to a 5 gallon batch of beer at the end of the boil. I figures if I boiled it too long I would lose a lot of the aromatics and flavor. I thought about adding it after the boil but I'm worried about contamination and figured I would boil it for a couple of minutes for sanitary reasons, plus I dont know if the alcohol present in the essence will have a detrimental effect on the yeast. Please, everyone, feel free to comment, suggest, agree, vary, modify or trash. Nothing is written in stone, and it will be at least a week before I brew again. Yours in brew, Erik Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 14:41 PDT From: Paul AndersEn <ECZ5PGA at MVS.OAC.UCLA.EDU> Subject: All about Beer, Hoegarten wheat Hi Yawl, Do any of you subscribe to the publication "All about Beer" or "Suds 'n Stuff"? If you do, is it worth the twenty bucks to subscribe or would you discourage it? For those of you who do not know what they are, they are publications from Oceanside California on the subject of beer from all over the world. A friend gave mine gave me an old edition and it was pretty interesting to read, and I got a few more catalogue for homebrew merchandise distributors sent to me from numbers I got out of it. Eventhough the 16 page magazine comes from california, it does not only talk about beer in california. It gave all the results from the the Great American Beer Fest, and a bunch of short paragraphs ranging in topics. The one downfall to the 16 page paper mag is that it costs 15 bucks to subscribe for a year (there are 6 mags a year). I don't think I will join, but the "All about Beer" publication is supposed to be a bigger mag with more information. Again, if anyone has seen it or subscribes, I would be interested to hear what it is like. If anyone out there is interested in these publications: Beer Drinker's Int'l P.O. Box 586402 Oceanside, CA. 92058 By the way, I am in no way affiliated with this magazine, so please do not take this as an advertisement. Side note: If you haven't tried a beer called Hoegarten from Belgium I highly recommend it. If you live in the Los Angeles area, the only place where you can get it is at The Wine House on Cotner st. just north of Pico in West L.A. Prost! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 15:13:26 PDT From: gak at wrs.com (Richard Stueven) Subject: Boston Visit So there I was at the Wind River Systems booth at BusCon '92, in my official capacity as Wind River's Technical Support Manager (insert appropriate fanfare here), when I saw a marginally familiar name on this attendee's name tag: "Charles Cox". "Hmmm," says I, "that's certainly a marginally familiar name...where have I heard it before." The wheels spin. Further down on the name tag is his company name: "Synchrosystems". "Holy cow," says I! "You're Chuck Cox, the World's Fastest Homebrewer!" "The same," says he. It's amazing who you can run into three thousand miles from home. Our schedules didn't permit me to buy him a beer, but Chuck gave me pointers to all of the Boston brewpubs, and I drank some _amazing_ beers that night. Watch for my upcoming article, "The T Tour", which will probably be finished before my "Beer Odyssey from Hell" article, unfortunately. Thanks, Chuck! If our paths cross again, it's my treat! Richard Stueven gak at wrs.com attmail!gakhaus!gak 107/H/3&4 To sight it must ring clear as a bell, it must snap in the ear, feel pleasantly sticky between the fingers, smell fresh and tempting and taste heavenly. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 16:12:15 PDT From: Robert Pulliam <pulliam at monty.rand.org> Subject: Kegs Greetings fellow homebrewers, Although this is my first post and I have numerous questions, I'll keep it short and only ask one today. I was cleaning out a couple of old kegs (cornellius and firestone) and wanted to replace the gaskets on top of the springs in the stems but cannot seem to disassemble the stems to get at the spring mechanisms. How does one go about getting to these gaskets. Thanks in advance, RJP Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 23:35 GMT From: Peter Nesbitt <0005111312 at mcimail.com> Subject: Carboys and plastic water jugs Thanks again to all who have been helping me along. I just finished calling up all the local water distribution companies in my area. I was trying to find a less expensive way of purchasing the glass carboys. Not a single comapany here uses glass any more. They did assure me that the plastic used is a *** non-porous plastic ****. What is the HBD net wisdom on this? Could I safely use plastic water jugs as my carboy? At $6.00 a pop, this would sure beat paying $18 for a glass one when the need arises! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 92 20:18:18 EDT From: jdg at grex.ann-arbor.mi.us (Josh Grosse) Subject: Incredibly good extraction rate Spencer Thomas and I brewed a Vienna Lager this Sunday at the Rennaisance Festival (Holly, MI) as he described in an earlier post. He calculates that we got 1.032/lb/gallon, but I think we did a little better than that, as we used slightly less malt than he noted. Also, we did not add our crystal malts until mashout. The two of us were able to obtain extractions at 1.032 - 1.033 /lb/gallon through the use of a mash tun with a recirculating pump. This pump pulled wort from below the false bottom, and had an outlet at the top of the tun. During the mash, we watched the wort at the outlet become absolutely crystal clear. The mash itself created an impressive and recirculated filter bed, and we recirculated throughout the entire mash, to be sure of even heat and an extremely effective filter bed. We used a 15 gallon pilot brewery designed and built by Dave West and Mike O'Brien, a system which Spencer described in the HBD about a year ago. The key to its effectiveness is the pump, which we used three times. The first time was during the mash, as described. The second time was during wort cooling, when we attached the pump to the boiling kettle to improve the effectiveness of an immersion chiller. The third time was to rack the cooled wort into carboys to take home. We now have a data point that corroberates Dr. Fix and Mr. Miller on the effect of recirulation on mash efficiency. - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Josh Grosse jdg at grex.ann-arbor.mi.us Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #974, 09/22/92