HOMEBREW Digest #1305 Thu 23 December 1993

Digest #1304 Digest #1306

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  SPARKLING WINE (aaron.banerjee)
  Re: Whitbread yeast (1098) (CCASTELL)
  pride & clean bottles (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Pots for Brewing (GNT_TOX_)
  clarification, priming (Mark Francisco 3811 )
  Re: Carastan (Timothy J. Dalton)
  Handling Charges / Keg Cleaning (Robert H. Reed)
  cleaning kegs (Russell Gelinas)
  Brewpubs, and other pipe dreams... (Bill Othon.LinCom)
  Carapils (Michael Inglis)
  Propane/Natural Gas convers ("Rad Equipment")
  Summary of responses to Insufficient head problem (Earle M. Williams)
  Copper Electroplating ("Palmer.John")
  Off flavors in Kegs (Geoff Reeves)
  Bottle Inspection Comments (Geoff Reeves)
  HopTech shipping (Lee=A.=Menegoni)
  Making a Belgian White Ale.... ("J. Andrew Patrick")
  Slotted Copper/Step Mash/Miscellany (npyle)
  test (Peter Ferrara)
  mosaic site for hbd? (George Tempel)
  Re: 5 Liter Mini Kegs (Josh Stillerman)
  A-B Boycott/Budweiser (David P. Atkins)
  Evaluating Beer w/ Jim Koch (Mark Stickler Internet Mail Name)
  Heileman Brew. Co Beerwatch (David P. Atkins)
  High malt glucose syrup, etc. (Alec Saunders)
  hoppy whatever (George Tempel)
  Seltzer Carbonators (Art Steinmetz)
  Weissbier (Art Steinmetz)
  Fixed Kettle Thermometers (Will B. Blalock)
  Bulk hop purchasing (WESTEMEIER)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 21 Dec 93 23:50:23 From: aaron.banerjee at his.com Subject: SPARKLING WINE Is anyone out there making champagne for New Years? I have been making beer in champagne bottles for a few years, and have yet to have a single explosion. Somehow, my champagne, on the other hand, seems to either be flat or explosive. The method of pressurizing I use is to bottle early, or add a small amount of sugar (as opposed to CO2 cartridges--that's cheating). My Christmas ale turned out fine, but I'll bet it doesn't compare to some of the others... If anyone's making sparkling wine, and bottles without CO2, contact me directly at: INTERNET: aaron.banerjee at his.com FidoNet: Aaron Banerjee 1:109/421 Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 93 11:24 From: CCASTELL.UNIX11 at mailsrv2.eldec.com (CCASTELL) Subject: Re: Whitbread yeast (1098) I tried to mail this out on 12/17. Unfortunately, our mailer is down about 50% of the time, so access to the outside world is limited. If this posting appears twice (probably on different days), I apologize. You never know when a mailing actually makes it to the outside world. Al writes (HOMEBREW Digest #1299): > 3. mixed yeasts (the Whitbread triple-strain (Wyeast #1098) has been reported > to have a slowdown in the middle of the ferment, for example), and ... Russ responds (HOMEBREW Digest #1300): > Was it ever settled if Wyeast 1098 has the 3 strains of Whitbread yeast > or just 1 of the strains? ... Looking at my notes from Dave Logsdon's talk, "Matching Yeasts to Beer Styles" at this summer's convention, Dave stated that 1098 was a single strain. He said that they were working on multiple strain yeasts that would be out soon. (Are any of the new varieties multiple strains?) He also had a couple of other interesting points that I'll throw out here. He claimed that numerous studies have shown that dry yeast does not give you a faster start than liquid. The foaming and gas production is a byproduct of the rehydration and is not actual growth. Neither form of yeast reaches exponential growth for about 12 hours. Someone asked about repitching yeast from the secondary. Dave said that yeast should be taken from both the primary and the secondary, or you'll risk ending up with a yeast with different characteristics. His point was that a certain component of the yeast may "do its thing" early and drop out of suspension early and not make it to the secondary. Without this component, the yeast repitched from the secondary may have different characteristics. Charlie //-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-// // ccastell at eldec.com // Charles Castellow // //-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-//-// Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 04:21:14 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: pride & clean bottles I was recently accused of submitting beer to contests because I'm proud of it. (I know I'm paraphrasing to make a point, so don't flame too hard, ok?) Well, certainly, there's some of that. I don't generally submit swill. (I inflict that on local brewclub members, instead. :-) But what I was getting at was this: any beer I send to a competition is SOMETHING I MADE. It's therefore a LITTLE PART OF ME, and the presentation REFLECTS ON ME. If I send a grungy bottle, that's as good as saying I'M A GRUNGY PERSON. (Sure, sometimes, but not usually in public.) Not to mention the implicit message it sends to the judges: "I didn't have the 5 minutes it would take to clean up this bottle, but I expect you to give the beer in it a thorough evaluation anyway." Someone else complained about how hard it is to clean bottles just to send in beer to a competition. My heart bleeds. Plan ahead. Soak the bottle for a day or two. I have yet to find a label that doesn't fall off of its own accord if you soak it long enough. The last competition I judged, 5 judges decided for one reason or another not to show up. The rest of us spent 6 hours, judging 2 flights (typically >10 beers) each (and then the 6 of us who had any stamina left mass-judged the 8 beers in the barleywine category). And you can't spend 5 minutes cleaning your bottle. Foo. So, if it's such a painful experience, why do I judge? Foremost, probably because it helps me improve my own brewing and my appreciation of good beer. Also, I'm giving something back to the brewing community. And, when you hit that one perfect beer of the competition, it's worth all the infected ones. And, it's fun (at least for the first 10 or so:-). =Spencer P.S. Does any of this relate to the discussion about "language" in the HBD? PPS I'll be on vacation, reading HBD only sporadically, until the new year. If I don't respond to your counter-flames, that's probably why. (And cows can fly:-) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 07:53 EST From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> Subject: Pots for Brewing To continue on with the brewpot thread.... Can anyone see any problems with using a teflon coated brewpot, if they exists in sizes as big as 8 gallons? Andy Pastuszak Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 07:54:32 -0500 From: franco at astro.ge.com (Mark Francisco 3811 ) Subject: clarification, priming Two questions from an amateur homebrewer. I have made a amber ale and it is wonderful, though cloudy. What is a recommended clarification process? I am no longer using corn sugar but malt in the brewing process but still am when priming. I notice the brew still has a cider flavor. Is there an alternative to corn sugar for priming and/or am I using too much? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 08:20:10 -0500 From: Timothy J. Dalton <dalton at mtl.mit.edu> Subject: Re: Carastan cmryglot at disney.CV.COM (Chuck Mryglot X6024) writes: > Can someone please tell me what carastan malt. I have not > seen it in the HBshop I frequent but have seen it > mentioned here and in recipies. Also, some recipies call > out light and dark crystal. What is the color guideline > for 'light' and 'dark'. Here's a section of an article that I wrote for "The Brewprint" - the Newsletter of the Boston Wort Processors. Wort Processor and brewmaster at the Ould Newbury Brewing Co., Joe Rolfe, has donated a 25 Kg sack of carastan malt from maltsters Hugh Baird in England to the club. What is carastan malt ??? An essay by George Fix in the January 1993 Brewprint provides some clues. Here's a brief synopsis. Carastan malt is produced by roasting "green malt." It is enzymaticaly inactive. The roasted "green malts" produced by HB are subdivided into four categories: light carastan 13-17 L carastan 30-40 L crystal 70-80 L dark crystal 100-160L For this particular malt, Joe has supplied some specific information. First, he says that it is dextrinous. The color is 32.8 L, it has a fermentable extract of 71.1% and a moisture content of 8.8%. Hope that helps, Tim - ---- Timothy J. Dalton tjdalton at mit.edu MIT, Dept. of Chemical Engineering, Materials Etching Technology Lab ***** Searchlight Casting for Faults in the Clouds of Delusion ***** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 09:44:45 -0500 (EST) From: Robert H. Reed <rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com> Subject: Handling Charges / Keg Cleaning Gary writes regarding Hoptech's handling fees: > > > Total weight for this order < 1lb. Being somewhat familiar > with shipping costs, I asked for UPS BLUE (second day). When I received > the package I was billed $9.75 in shipping and handling on a $12 product > order! I called the company and was told that a $4 "handling" fee was > charged to me since my order was < $30. This is something that folks > should know! The extracts taste fine, but Hoptech's rediculous S&H fees > left a bitter taste in my mouth... I agree that adding handling fees to orders in not appropriate: I think many suppliers do this so that their prices seem lower than they actually are. I believe a customer should pay for the cost of the product and actual shipping fees and any SPECIAL packing or shipping e.g., special packing for glass or overnight air shipment. IMO, filling an order, packing a box, and getting it to UPS/RPS or the Post Office is *part of the cost of doing business*. Most suppliers list these costs in their catalog or other literature and I agree with Gary: let the buyer beware. The reality of shipping is that there is a minimum charge for a package and the shipping cost increases nonlinearly with increased weight. I think a more ethical practice is to charge only for shipping. If small orders are a hassle, then offer an incentive for larger orders i.e., free shipping rather than penalize the customer for small orders. With regard to Phil's problem with keg infection: > Let me say that I clean every keg before reuse and that > I sanitize them by filling them with an Idophor solution for about > 20 minutes before re-kegging. I even push in the little stopper at > the top of the fill tube to release air and get solution up the > tube. > But I'll admit I have never ripped these kegs appart and > pulled the little liquid and gas knobs appart. I was thinking of cleaning > them in either an idophor or bleach solution. I know that bleach does > bad things to stainless, but I would only soak them for about 20 minutes > and then rinse. I believe that Iodophor is more of a sterilant than a keg cleaning solution. I recommend using TSP to clean soda kegs or kegs that have had beer sitting in them w/o a CO2 cover. I use 1/4C per gallon in *very hot* water and let them soak for several hours, then rinse well. If your keg is visually clean and still has a soda or unpleasant odor, there is a non-vanishing probability that your beer will pick up this odor/flavor. Without initiating a veritable plethora of net traffic regarding the socio-economic implications of o-ring/poppet valve replacement, I suggest replacing the large o-ring, the diptube o-rings, the ball or pin valve o-rings, and the poppet valves. IMHO, rebuilding your kegs is a good investment($5 to $6) and will increase your chances of making consistently great homebrew. Isn't this what it's all about? Rob Reed Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 09:53:25 -0500 (EST) From: gelinas at ekman.unh.edu (Russell Gelinas) Subject: cleaning kegs Before I kegged a recent batch, I happened to take a look inside the long pick-up tube. It looked less than clean. So I took the ol' ubiquitous Q-tip and put it in the tube, and forced it through with hot water. The Q-tip came out dirty, and the tube was noticeably cleaner. If you sanitize your kegs with boiling water, a dirty pickup tube may not be a problem; the heat should kill most anything. But if you use a sanitizing solution, it may be more important to ensure that all parts of the keg are clean before sanitizing. Either way, it's small work to clean the tube. Re. sanitizing solutions: I've got a 5-gallon plastic bucket that I keep filled with a strong, almost saturated, solution of B-Brite. As long as I remember to tightly seal the cover, it remains active (ie. it is still very "slippery") for a long time (months). I even store things such as rubber stoppers and plastic fermentation locks right in the bucket. Russ Gelinas eos unh Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 09:09 CST From: othon at ial7.jsc.nasa.gov (Bill Othon.LinCom) Subject: Brewpubs, and other pipe dreams... Several friends and I have been musing about what it would take to start a brewpub, now that they are legal in Texas. My main interest in this is to bring good beer to Texas, and to learn to brew on a bigger scale. I've brewed about 20, mainly partial-mash brews, and certainly dont feel like I (by myself) have the expertise to brew on a big scale. Do you need a Masterbrewer to start, and if so where do you find one? Should you start with extract brewing, or bite the bullet and do it right the first time; what are the cost trade-offs with either method? Have any of you micro owners tried these "rent a brewmeister" folks who come out and show you the ropes for several weeks? This is a bit tangential to most digest requests, so private E-mail is suggested and welcome. Any insights, anecdotes, or war stories would be appreciated. Thanks, and Merry Christmas. -Bill /\ |__| /\ ===================================== / \ | | / \ Bill Othon <othon at ial7.jsc.nasa.gov> / ---| |--- \ Orbital Mechanic \ / LinCom Corporation - Houston Division \ /\/\ /\/\ / (713) 483-1858 \/ \ / \/ \/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 07:48:42 PST From: mri10 at mfg.amdahl.com (Michael Inglis) Subject: Carapils I posted this to r.c.b with no response so I'm trying it here... When should Carapils be added in the mashing process to obtain the residual sweetness assosiated with the grain? In the past I have added it at mashout along with my Crystal but I'm not sure how effective this is. I have heard two versions. The first being that there is no need to mash Carapils and the sweetness will show up if the grain is treated as a specialty grain. The second version is that the grain needs to be mashed to get anything but starch out of the grain. Does anyone have the true story? Mike Inglis mri10 at mfg.amdahl.com Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Dec 1993 07:58:42 -0800 From: "Rad Equipment" <rad_equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.edu> Subject: Propane/Natural Gas convers Subject: Propane/Natural Gas conversions Time:7:51 AM Date:12/22/93 Happy Holidays All! Would anyone with a good understanding of the dynamics of gas burners please contact me via private e-mail. I'm working on converting burners from one gas to another and would like to get a little education on how the orifice size, regulator pressure, etc are determined. This may expand into an article, but for now it is just research. Thanks in advance. RW... Russ Wigglesworth (INTERNET: Rad_Equipment at radmac1.ucsf.edu - CI$: 72300,61) UCSF Dept. of Radiology, San Francisco, CA (415) 476-3668 / Home (707) 769-0425 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 9:25:21 MST From: Earle M. Williams <earlew at drc.usbm.gov> Subject: Summary of responses to Insufficient head problem I posted an accounting of a recent problem where I noticed my Nut Brown Ale (nicknamed Moonbeam after a famous California governor) would lose its head immediately after being poured into the mug (from a bottle... I haven't kegged in a while, but more on that later.) I received several responses, some in HBD and some private email. Several suggestions were given, and I'll list a few. Cause/Solution #1 - Soap residue in mug ======================================= >From: jim at n5ial.mythical.com (Jim Graham) >Btw, just thought of something---this may be a bit on the obvious side, >but then, I wouldn't have known it if someone here hadn't told me, so..... >You're not using soap to wash your beer mugs, brewing equipment, etc., >are you? If so, that's an instant head-killer. Apparently, there's a >residue left by the soap that's nearly impossible to get rid of. I rinse >my mugs out with a mild bleach/water solution every so often (I'm normally >the only one using them---if anyone else is going to use them, they get >bleached before and after no matter what). Others had similar suggestions, and I'm sorry for not giving appropriate credit. Cause/Solution #2 - Insufficent Carbonation =========================================== >From ryptyde!mikel Mon Dec 13 14:40 MST 1993 >Head Problems: >Two things you could try. First, add more sugar at bottling time. I've >found 3/4 cup of corn sugar to be insufficient unless I pack down the >sugar with my thumb and add more to make 3/4 cup. (Pretty dumb >measurement method. I need to get some decent scales and measure by >weight.) This could be the culprit. Since I'm pretty sloppy at measuring to 5 gallons, I may not have enough carbonation, even though it does seem to foam up some when pouring. Cause/Solution #3 - Not enough small proteins ============================================= >From ryptyde!mikel Mon Dec 13 14:40 MST 1993 >Second, increase your head retention by adding 1 lb. of dried wheat malt >extract. This may cause a chill haze, but will make the head last much >longer. Some postings in HBD also suggested I either add some wheat malt or more hops TO get sufficient proteins in my wort. Thanks for the suggestions! One final suggestion from someone who shall remain anonymous - try a dozen red roses! ;-> Thanks again for all the help! - ------ Earle M. Williams U.S. Bureau of Mines Denver, Colorado USA (Internet) earlew at drc.usbm.gov Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Dec 1993 08:26:14 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Copper Electroplating Tom Clifton wrote: In any event, has anybody tried electroplating the bottom of a stainless pot to apply a copper cladding? Are the metals compatible etc??? I do know that that a bath of copper sulphate, a copper anode and a battery charger will let you plate steel (nails etc) but when you get into stainless (chrome/nickel?) will it will it still work? What I can tell you about this is that it is best done in a lab. Electroplating is usually done in cyanide baths or in the case of sulfate baths, at high current densities 40 amps/ft-squared. Not easy to do at home in the sink. Also the stainless needs to be pickled in strong acid beforehand to remove all of the surface oxides that make stainless stain-less. Aluminum cladding is done under pressure by rolling two sheets together. It is cheaper than copper electroplating and provides nearly identical results in terms of heat transfer charactoristics. John Palmer Space Station M&P Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 09:28:14 -0700 From: reeves at lanl.gov (Geoff Reeves) Subject: Off flavors in Kegs >From: philb at pro-storm.metronet.com (Phil Brushaber) >Subject: Keg Infection? > > A couple of days ago I left a message about getting a >medicinal/metallic off-taste in my brew after stainless steel >kegging. > Since I did not experience the problem with every >kegged/brewed batch, I wanted to blame something in an >individual batch process or ingredient. But it could also >be that some of my kegs have a bacterial/contamination problem >while others do not. > Let me say that I clean every keg before reuse and that >I sanitize them by filling them with an Idophor solution for about >20 minutes before re-kegging. I even push in the little stopper at >the top of the fill tube to release air and get solution up the >tube. > But I'll admit I have never ripped these kegs appart and >pulled the little liquid and gas knobs appart. I was thinking of cleaning >them in either an idophor or bleach solution. I know that bleach does >bad things to stainless, but I would only soak them for about 20 minutes >and then rinse. Bacterial infection is not the only possibility. This problem is beginning to sound a lot like a problem that I had with funny tastes in kegged beer. I was using the exact same procedure - sanitize with idophor, push down the poppets to get full coverage, force idophor through all parts with CO2. I had no problems with my bottled beer but the kegged beer came out with what I suppose you could call a medicinal/metallic taste. It wasn't a bacterial infection taste though it was an IODINE taste. To this day I can't serve porter to my homebrew club without at least a few snickers. My experience with idophor is that not only does it have to be rinsed but that the rubber parts of kegs like O-rings and gaskets can pick up a long-term iodine flavor. I started tearing my kegs apart, boiling all rubber parts, sanitizing the metal parts with chlorine or idophor, and then rinsing all metal parts. with boiled water. The cornelius kegs aren't that hard to take apart. Just unscrew the intake and output valves. You can use an adjustable wrench but having the right extra-deep socket wrenches (~$5.00) makes the job a lot easier. I think 3/4" or 7/8" sockets fit most keg valves. With the valves unscrewed the two tubes (short air tube, long liquid tube) pull right out. Geoff +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | A brewery is like a toothbrush, everyone should have their own. | +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Geoff Reeves: NIS-2, Mail Stop D-436, Los Alamos National Laboratory | | reeves at lanl.gov (internet) or essdp2::reeves (span) | | Phone (505) 665-3877 | | Fax (505) 665-4414 | +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 09:29:26 -0700 From: reeves at lanl.gov (Geoff Reeves) Subject: Bottle Inspection Comments > >>THis is one of my pet peeves too. I think the inspection is fine for >>rings, yeast cake/cloudiness, etc, but comments on "low fill levels" >>can be erroneous. > Al Korz replies >I'm with Spencer on this one. The inspection line is more of a note to >myself. If I don't find a problem with the beer, I don't even mention >it in the scored section of the form. By the way, I try to remember to >check for sediment, so I know if this is a bottle-conditioned or CP-filled >bottle. > Checking for sediment is not a good test. It is easy to get lots of sediment in a CP-filled bottle. For example the first few glasses (or bottles) out of a keg pick up some of the yeast sediment from the bottom. The same can happen for a whole batch if you CP-bottle before all the yeast has settled out or if you shake up the keg accidently but have to ship your beer to the contest that day. Conversely, I know microbreweries that filter their beer before priming and then prime and add just enough yeast to get carbonation. They are bottle conditioned but have virtually no visible sediment. My main point is that non-judges can take bottle inspection comments seriously. They don't know that they are just notes to yourself. The comments should be to provide constructive feedback to the brewer and I feel that any comments that don't directly relate to the quality of the beer are inappropriate especially when they can be percevied as negative. Geoff +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Can you tell I'd rather read HBD than work? | +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Geoff Reeves: NIS-2, Mail Stop D-436, Los Alamos National Laboratory | | reeves at lanl.gov (internet) or essdp2::reeves (span) | | Phone (505) 665-3877 | | Fax (505) 665-4414 | +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 10:31:42 EST From: Lee=A.=Menegoni at nectech.com Subject: HopTech shipping The shipping cost are cleary stated in the catalog as are the costs for upgrading the type of shipping from standard UPS. My experience with mail order is that one can not assume what shipping and handling costs are, you need to ask. Small orders are just as much work to pack and ship as larger ones if the cost of handling exceeds the profit on the items purchased why sell them. Let the buyer beware. PS: I have had no problems ordering from HopTech, the phone staff is helpful and you can call the "Hot line" Wednesday nites from 6-9PM PST. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 12:15:52 -40975532 (CST) From: "J. Andrew Patrick" <andnator at genesis.Mcs.Com> Subject: Making a Belgian White Ale.... Some minor clarifications and updates to Micheal Yee's posting on the "HBU-BBS/Steve Daniel- Celis White" recipe in HBD #1302: - The portions about the proper yeast selection were in fact written by Steve Moore, the HBU-SW Campus Sysop, and not by Steve Daniel. All other sections are properly attributed to Steve Daniel and Tony Storz. - Pierre Celis was present at all major events at the Dixie Cup in Houston last October. He was very open and gracious with information about his brewing process, giving us added confirmation that we were on the right track with this recipe. - Dave Noonan's brewpub in Burlington, Vermont is now making a commercial Wit based directly upon the HBU/Steve Daniel recipe. Unfortunately, I have not had a chance to try it yet, but have heard good reports. I just brewed an all-grain batch of it with some friends, and can confirm that the yeast selection is indeed crucial. We started with some growing dregs from a Steendonk bottle. This plodded along for a few days, and then we ended up pitching some Bavarian Wheat Wyeast to get the thing going. We're still waiting on final product while we "dry-BOQ" on the Bitter Orange Quarters that Pierre recommends, but the beer was _quite_ close to Celis in terms of color and aroma at the time of racking. If we can just get the gravity down to an acceptable range and pick up the proper flavors from the Bitter Orange Quarters, we should have a really close imitation of Celis White. We're also considering adding some lactic acid before final kegging in an attempt to simulate the results of the secondary lactic fermentation that Pierre does. I'd be interested in any HBDwisdom on how do achieve this last step. P.S. My heartfelt thanks to ALL who replied directly to me regarding my recent posting on AOL and censorship. Even those of you who called me names that made my poor naive ears turn red!! "I may not agree with what you say, but I will gladly fight to the death for your right to say it!" - Thomas Jefferson +--------------+---------------------------------+--------------+ |Sysop | Andrew Patrick | Founder| |Home Brew Univ| AHA/HWBTA Recognized Beer Judge |Home Brew Univ| |Midwest BBS | SW Brewing News Correspondent | Southwest BBS| |(708)705-7263 |Internet:andnator at genesis.mcs.com| (713)923-6418| +--------------+---------------------------------+--------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 10:08:07 MST From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: Slotted Copper/Step Mash/Miscellany John Wheaton writes about installing a slotted copper tube to the bottom of his mash tun to make it a mash/lauter tun. This will work, John, as it is similar to my cooler setup. With only one pipe, I would probably try to put it directly on the bottom of the tun though. This will leave less liquor behind and probably prevent more of the grain from finding its way into the slots. Very little of the grain would be trapped under the pipe, I would think not enough to worry about in terms of temperature extremes. I'm sure Jack will note your reason for not using SS screen: it is less durable than the pipe. He claims that the SS screen he buys is very rugged and that durability is not an issue. I have not found SS readily available in my area. ** Andy Kligerman raises some good points about accuracy of curves fitted to approximate data points, then says "Sorry for rambling on, by I'm in the government and here to help you!". Now I thought it was coming up to Christmas, not April Fools Day! Ha! ** Ed Oriordan writes: >Papazian gives the following numbers (working from memory here) > For 1 step infusion - Add 1 qt 165 H20 per 1lb grain (Target 155F) > For step infusion - Add 1 qt 128 H2O per 1lb grain (Target 122F) > Add .5 qt 212 H2O per 1lb grain (Target 155F) > >I have also found that the .5 qt he purposes does not get me >to 155, but more like 145 I was afraid to add more boiling H2O(making it even >thinner) so I did a partial decoction(more work than I wanted). These numbers are just a guide. Every mash tun is different (absorbs different amounts of heat, etc.). You need to adjust these numbers (keep good records) to own setup. I would recommend using something like .75 quart of 145F water per 1 lb grain to hit your protein rest temp. Then use up to .5 qt 212F water per 1 lb grain to hit your saccharification temp. >What are the consequences of the mash being so much thinner (than his >1 step infussion, it's 50% thinner) during the final step???? A thicker mash encourages one of the main saccharification enzymes and a thinner mash encourages the other (alpha amylase likes it thick??? I can't remember). Anyway, it is in at least one of the common books. Look it up and you can then adjust your temperature to aid the enzyme that's getting the short end of the stiffness stick. Of course, this may end up making a poor environment for both enzymes! Comments? >Should I use less H2O in the first step and use it in the second? >Should I just add as much boiling water as needed to get to 155? See above. >Does anybody do a step in a cooler, if so what numbers do you do(temps >and volumes per lb)? Now you've got me. I haven't ever really tried this (sheepish grin...) Remember that this advice is worth exactly what you paid for it. >I am to lazy to stove top mash, and I don't want to build an insulated box, >so please limit answers to what I should do for cooler mashing. > >The reason I am doing a protein rest is I was under the impression I needed >to with 2 Row Breiss (Klages that is Harrington) to prevent chill haze and >to get some needed yeast nutrients. Is that the case. You'll probably get lots of reponse about how you are wasting your time doing a protein rest in the first place (well-modified malts like Breiss 2-row don't need it, etc.). I am interested in the subject for future brews which may require it. Also, it would be interesting to be able to do multiple saccarification steps (say, 145F, 150F, 155F, mashout) to see the effect it has on the brew. I'm not sure this is possible though without really diluting the mash. ** Phil Brushaber, I think you are on the right track in reworking the poppets and O-rings in your kegs. I have learned this lesson the hard way as well. ** Jeff Frane writes: > I would suggest it would be a good rule that no one say >"on-line" something they wouldn't be willing to say to another person's >face -- and risk getting popped one in the snoot. This has been my attitude all along. If it is not appropriate to say to someone's face, it is not appropriate. Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 14:18:10 EST From: Peter Ferrara <FERRARA at URIACC.URI.EDU> Subject: test test Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 14:26:35 +0000 (U) From: George Tempel <tempel at MONMOUTH-ETDL1.ARMY.MIL> Subject: mosaic site for hbd? mosaic site for hbd? I've been searching for a Mosaic (WWW, WAIS, gopher, etc) site specification for the homebrew digest and mead lover's digest. The reference I have is: http://www.ncsa.uiuc.edu:8001/quake.think.com:210/homebrew but is broken. Is there another? george Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 14:50:38 -0500 (EST) From: Josh Stillerman <JAS at HARPO.PFC.MIT.EDU> Subject: Re: 5 Liter Mini Kegs In HBD #1303 Diane Palme writes about 5 Liter Mini-kegs. I got one of these as a gift this fall. I put up a batch this fall with quite mixed results. 1 - The beer was mostly foam when I first tapped it. 2 - I may have over primed it - the pressure bulged out the keg quite a bit. 3 - It was Ok over the next 2 days. 4 - With the tap on it is taller than a standard fridge shelf 5 - This beer was good, and reasonably carbonated in bottles 6 - 5L is actually quite a bit of beer. This meant that I ran out of bottles all the quicker and had to wait for an occasion to open the keg. 7 - I tapped one of the comerical 5L mini kegs using the same tap and it had similar problems. 8 - If you add too much Co2 the kegs leak around the bottom (or top) crimp. 9 - Anyone want to buy mine? :( Josh Stillerman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 15:05 CDT From: David P. Atkins <ATKINS at macc.wisc.edu> Subject: A-B Boycott/Budweiser While A-B may be a multi-gillion dollar juggernaut don't suppose that they will not take notice of the Patriots call for an A-B boycott. >From Advertising Age, Dec. 13, 1993 front page story: "California Budslide Hits Anheuser-Busch". The article details A-B's move to cut California Budweiser prices to stop the brand's decline in market share.... "Budweiser's rate of decline has increased this year, say knowledgeable observers. Partial-year figures gathered by BEER MARKETER'S INSIGHTS show that in a flat industry, A-B sales drops are concentrated in New England and the West." Go Pats! also.... "Normally, the beer industry points to California as a trendsetting state. In San Francisco, some observers say Budweiser taps at bars are being replaced with local or specialty brews." Hurrah...but... "A-B and distributors, however, argue there were some unique circumstances in California this year. 'We had horrendous weather.....economic woes....taxes....other brands selling at $4.99 a case...." And the plot thickens... "A-B also announced plans to introduce another new brew next year, possibly a flavored beer." Wow, Bud with a taste! "Some distributors last week said they had heard of negotiations with Boston Beer Co. under which A-B which(sic) would bring Samual Adams specialty beer to its stable. Boston Beer officials could not be reached for comment." Busy day in court, perhaps? Old rumors that refuse to die? Nothing like some quality hearsay. And what of the new Bud commercials...targetting twentysomethings who can do nothing but rattle of topical lists and drink Bud? Geez. I want to drink with those guys. Happy Holidays, David Atkins Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 16:25:58 EST From: Mark Stickler Internet Mail Name <mstickle at lvh.com> Subject: Evaluating Beer w/ Jim Koch I recently received a new book from the AHA entitled Evaluating Beer. What I read so far seems pretty informative but I noticed one the final chapters was written by Jim Koch (the book is a collection of previously published articles by various authors). His was a fairly short article which basically says that hops and malt are THE most important factors in beer taste. The word yeast is not mentioned even once in the entire article. He does mention water but says that is not important because it can be treated to suit whatever the brewers needs are. As an example he points out the Bud tastes the same whether iuts made in Tampa, Newark or St.Louis. I suppose this means AB could produce Pilsner Urquell or Bass Ale if they had the right hops and Malt. Other than this chapter the book appears to be worth the price. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 15:38 CDT From: David P. Atkins <ATKINS at macc.wisc.edu> Subject: Heileman Brew. Co Beerwatch Hello again, Just as I posted the Ad. Age piece on Budweiser, I found the following information concerning Heileman; brewers of Colt 45, Mickey's bigmouths, Special Export Light (GABF medal winner, I think) Old Style, Rainier & Lonestar. Advertising Age, Dec. 13, 1993, "Heileman Buyer Eyes New Markets" "The new owners of G. Heileman Brewing Co. plan to aggressively expand into new markets, including buying competitors, while maintaining a regional approach to selling beer. Richard F. Gaccione said he and his new bosses are of one mind on the company's strategic plan: aim for growth by tapping new markets or buying smaller competitors, and by focusing market resources on new brands." Being a resident of Wisconsin and also being surrounded by some fine microbreweries and regional operations, I express some concern of a hungry fish entering the pond. Berghoff of Monroe Wiconsin and of Berghoff Hotel, Chicago fame is the property of Strohs. Leinenkugel's (sp?)is the property of Miller. What of Sprecher, Capital, Point, Schell? Have any list members heard any business rumblings concerning regional breweries? Will the quality and character of regional brewing be adversely effected by takeovers or will just the name on the letterhead be changed? For instance, Berghoff no longer brews beer for the Berghoff Hotel and anecdotal accounts tell of the brand's loss of appeal in light of an expanding local beer market. All points of view and information are encouraged. Thanks and more Happy Holidays David Atkins Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 11:36:48 PST From: Alec Saunders <alecs at microsoft.com> Subject: High malt glucose syrup, etc. Hi all -- I have three questions for you: (1) I recently started brewing again, after a prolonged hiatus (7 years!). When I went to the local home brew store I asked for some dried malt extract instead of corn sugar to go with an english bitter kit I had. The proprietor of the store sold me stuff called "high malt glucose syrup" instead. I made up the kit with this syrup, and then put it downstairs to ferment about a week ago. I just tested the gravity yesterday to see if it was ready for bottling, and had a sip of the beer that was in the graduate cylinder. It was FABULOUS --> no cidery overtones, lots of body, and an incredible malt flavour. What *is* this stuff? I assumed, from the name, that it was just glucose syrup. It sure doesn't leave a taste like glucose, though! (2) The proprietor of same store tells me to bottle as soon as the gravity falls below 1.010. Says that if I let the beer ferment further I'm "losing alcohol". This doesn't make sense to me. Can anyone explain? (3) There seems to have been a lot of discussion about starter gravities in HBD. I've just gone and made up a pile of starters (boiled up 2 gallons of wort, then canned it in mason jars). The starters turned out to have a higher SG than I was expecting -- about 1.050 vs. the 1.040 that I was trying for. I suspect that the 1 Kg bag of dried malt extract I purchased was a little overfull. In any case, my question is simply this -- does anyone have a good feel for what the optimal SG for a starter is? Is my 1.050 going to cause a problem? Thanks for all of your help. Alec. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 16:37:31 +0000 (U) From: George Tempel <tempel at MONMOUTH-ETDL1.ARMY.MIL> Subject: hoppy whatever hoppy whatever i'll waste some bandwidth here to wish everyone, and their special others, a safe and hoppy holiday season. i'll be racking to a secondary tomorrow on my honey wheat ale. george Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 16:56:02 EST From: asteinm at pipeline.com (Art Steinmetz) Subject: Seltzer Carbonators I use them to carbonate water every day. They work great. I don't have a need to use them with beer but they work fine here too. Note that long term storage in PET bottles is not recommended cuz of oxygen permeability. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 16:56:07 EST From: asteinm at pipeline.com (Art Steinmetz) Subject: Weissbier Jeffrey L. Duerk writes: >If anyone has any experience in this area, a recipe to share, and yeast info, I'd appreciate > either a posting here, or directly to me at jld3 at po.cwru.edu I took second place in the national Weiss is Nice competition with a totally simple recipe. For 5 gal: 6 lbs Yellow Dog Extract 1/2 lb. cracked crystal malt 1/2 oz. Hallertau hops YeastLabs Weizen yeast in 1 qt. starter Steep crystal in water as water is brought to boil. Add hops and extract. Boil for 90 min. (longer boil is better for wheat beers) No finising hops. Force chill and pitch yeast at 68 deg. F. Ferment till done. Rack to secondary and lager at 40 deg. for one month. The YeastLabs Weizen strain deserves all the credit. The true Weizen cloviness really comes through. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 93 16:59:21 CST From: Will B. Blalock <willb at hp3.imed.com> Subject: Fixed Kettle Thermometers Full-Name: Will B. Blalock I have seen pictures of SS kettles and hot liquid tanks that have thermometers attached on the sides midway between bottom and top. Is this easily done? Does it take a special thermometer which has to be welded to the side or can it be attached in an easier way? Where do you find these flat thermometers (or do you cut the stem off a typical style thermometer? Is it worth it? -- *-------------------------------*------------------------------* | Will Blalock : willb at imed.com | No one ever called Picasso | | 409-798-0201 Angleton Texas | an assho. | *-------------------------------*------------------------------* Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 19:07:49 -0400 (EDT) From: WESTEMEIER at delphi.com Subject: Bulk hop purchasing I hope this doesn't get interpreted as a commercial, but I would really like to share a good experience and recommend it to everyone: Our homebrew club (the Bloatarian Brewing League) has always bought grain in bulk quantities (like a ton or two at a time). This method has been so efficient and economical that we decided it would be worthwhile to try buying hops the same way. We gathered everyone's list of what hops they expected to be using between now and next harvest, and consolidated them into one big list. Then we checked some suppliers and settled on The Hop Source in Oregon (Glenn Tinseth, 503-873-2879). Since it was a bulk order (over 25 pounds), Glenn gave us 50% off his normal prices for the 92 crop, and 25% off his 93 crop prices. We wound up buying 72 pounds of hops, and Glenn's only restriction was that we order in units of pounds. When the hops arrived, they were packed in one-pound, oxygen-barrier vacuum-sealed bags, and the 92 crop looked as good as the 93 crop. Bright green and beautiful. I'm sure that other hop merchants will offer similar deals, so this isn't really a "plug" for The Hop Source, and I certainly don't have any connection of any kind other than as very satisfied customer. If anyone is looking for hops to carry them through the winter brewing season, I strongly encourage you to get your club together and put a bulk order in now. One final note: I have found that once the oxygen-barrier bag is opened, an excellent way of keeping the hops pretty fresh is to wrap them in aluminum foil and crimp the edges tightly. Zip-lock plastic bags are useful, but they don't keep the oxygen out, while aluminum foil gives you as close to an airtight container as you're likely to find. Obviously, you want to keep them in the freezer or at least the refrigerator (or even outside if you're in a cold climate), since the vapor pressure will be reduced by the lower temperature, also contributing to freshness. - -- Ed Westemeier - -- Cincinnati, Ohio - -- westemeier at delphi.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1305, 12/23/93