HOMEBREW Digest #1483 Sat 23 July 1994

Digest #1482 Digest #1484

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Pepper beer and clarification (Sean C. Cox)
  Topping off the boil, Siphoning (Dan Wood)
  HSA during mash (Mark Worwetz)
  English pub info (Jim Dipalma)
  Anchor Brewing Advertising (David Pike)
  SA Labels (Douglas R. Jones)
  Re: Phenolic aroma & Wyeast scottish ale (#1728) (Kelvin Kapteyn)
  Thanks to all! (Douglas R. Jones)
  SG with suspensions ("Harrington, Stephen J")
  mail-order alert ("Dave Suurballe")
  More JK commentary (Erik Speckman)
  Japanese beetles (CLAY)
  RE: Thin mash; sterility; Columbus brewing? (Mark Gugel)
  HDPE Brutes as fermenters/Homebrew Favorites (Book Review)/Questions for 1/2 Barrel Keg FAQ (Teddy Winstead)
  Killian's Red ("Ilmonen, Irene A")
  Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #14... (Hauptbrau)
  Brush with Greatness (RON)
  The best Mini-Kegger?? And old Extract? (COTE_FRANK)
  Multi-strain yeasts (TJWILLIA)
  Guests at Club Meetings (Martin Lodahl)
  bulk grain purchases (Seattle)/used Elephant Kegs/source for  ?55gal? ("McGaughey, Nial")
  Warthog Ale Recipe? (Dodger Posey)
  Gott coolers. (Tel +44 784 443167)
  o-rings (abaucom)
  Re: San Diego Brewpubs (R. Keith Frank)
  Cloudy Hoses Results (David Rodger)
  Re: Gott mashing (Sandy Cockerham)
  hydrometers (Bruce Wiggins)
  The best Mini-Kegger?? Old Extract? (COTE_FRANK)
  Gossip/Whining/Bandwidth/Purpose? (Mark Evans)
  Bacteria (Andrew Patrick)
  new question (John Harres)
  Bud Yeast (npyle)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 10:33:37 EDT From: scox at factset.com (Sean C. Cox) Subject: Pepper beer and clarification Greetings all, I've just tried a pepper beer I started a couple weeks ago, and I noticed something unusual. It was amazingly clear. Clearer than any beer I've ever made (I've been brewing, extract only, for about 4yrs). I didn't use any finings of any sort, and it fermented (and aged) in a corner of my non-airconditioned CT apartment (temps in the 70s-90s) for less than 3 weeks start to finish. The recipe follows: 1 can (4lb) Alexanders wheat malt 1 can (1.4lb) Alexanders pale malt kicker 1oz Cascades (boil) 1/2 oz. Cascades (finish) 2 Scotch Bonnet peppers (habaneros) diced, frozen (the only way I can stand to cut them, zow!) Winsor yeast First time I tried this one. (Dry yeast, BTW). Boiled for about 45 minutes, added the peppers after the heat was shut off. Cooled by immersing the pot in ice water bath. Piched yeast from starter (about 20oz, made in Alexanders can). Bottled in a week, aged about two (maybe a day or two less). When I poured the first sample the other day is was clear, a lovely amber color, but totally clear! (It also has a nice mellow pepper finish :-9 ) It looked like it had been filtered or something, but there was a good sedmient on the bottom, so I know there were yeast in there :-) Any ideas as to what might have done this? Perhaps the capiscum(sp?) in the peppers? Maybe some really fine yeast? I'd certainly like to be able to replicate this clarity (esp. for a nice light amber beer!). -- Sean -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- -=-=- Sean Cox =-= FactSet Data Systems -=- scox at factset.com =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=EOT Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 09:35:54 CDT From: wood at ranger.rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood) Subject: Topping off the boil, Siphoning In #1480, I posted details of a dispute between brew-buddy Brent and I regarding topping off the boil, and whether it would lead to HSA, impotence, etc. Since I've seen no HBD replies, and the only email replies I received expressed confusion about what the heck "topping off the boil" means, I'll eat a little more BW explaining, then pray to Ninkasi for guidance. My cut-off keg brewpot holds about 12g (regretfully, I cut it off at the sides). While I go so far as to dare 5g batches to boil over, I am humbled when dealing with 10g, since I'm down to about 8" of headspace. For these 10g batches, rather than watch the brewpot constantly, I've been first boiling 8g of wort (providing that much needed extra few of inches of headspace), then adding hops, then finally adding 2g of hot tap water (well water, no chlorine), restoring the boil, and boiling for the next hour, usually with stepped hop additions. The hot tap water sits for a few minutes prior to addition, and seems relatively oxygen free. I try to pour slowly, and avoid splashing. So, wise ones: is this hosed, or a good solution for cranking out those bigger batches? On siphoning: You can't beat the curved "candy cane" style racking canes with the plastic cup at the tip. I like to store the carboy with the back side elevated about 1/4", leaving a shallow spot in the sludge. The racking cane then fits well diagonally in the carboy, with the tip in the shallow spot. Works like a charm. I have a cone shaped plastic thing designed to sit in the neck of the carboy, with a grove through it to hold the racking cane. This thing is a series of stepped cylinders, much like the drill bits that cut increasingly large holes. It worked OK, but I like the curved cane better. It came from a brew supply store in Grand Rapids, MI: I'm not recommending it, just providing a lead if anyone is interested. Dan Wood Chief Anarchist, FVHAA wood at cig.mot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 08:58:26 -0600 (MDT) From: Mark_Worwetz at Novell.COM (Mark Worwetz) Subject: HSA during mash Howdy from Zion! I am just beginning my foray into all-grain brewing (mainly concern over content of extracts!) and have been avidly reading the advice given here. My question is about HSA during lautering. I knew that splashing wort into a fermenter caused HSA, but I was under the impression that aeration in the extract before the boil would be totally removed by the boil. Does the lauter HSA cause off flavors that are not removed by the boil? Do the extract sugars get oxidized by splashing the runnings? I have other friends who read the HBD and are ready to go all-grain. A nice explanation about this pre-boil HSA problem might spare we Utarrr pioneers a wasted trip to the feed-store for grain. (Wooden wheels ain't cheap!) TIA and Happy Pioneer Days of '47 (7/24) !! Mark Worwetz Engineer, Patriot(TM), Brewer(TM) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 11:09:05 EDT From: dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma) Subject: English pub info Hi All, My wife and I are planning a trip to England this fall to celebrate our anniversary. She doesn't brew, but where beer is concerned she is an enthusiastic "end-user". We're in the process of planning our itinerary, and naturally we want to stop at as many pubs that serve cask-conditioned real ale as possible. Can some kind soul please tell me where I can find the CAMRA guide? I'd also appreciate any personal recommendations. Private email please to conserve bandwidth, I'll send a copy of the responses to anyone who asks. Thanks, Jim dipalma at sky.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 08:49:47 -0700 (PDT) From: davep at corp.cirrus.com (David Pike) Subject: Anchor Brewing Advertising The Anchor Brewing company has only done one advertizement to my knowledge. During the 1992-1993 Baseball season, they put an ad in the Candlestick Park baseball program that said, "The hometown beer supports the hometown team", along with a picture of the Steam beer logo. The helped them get the Steam beer into the Stick for the baseball season. But Fritz M. does sponsor artistic endevours such as 'the Anchor Players', I think this is a string quartet, or some such. But I have never heard of any other ad, rather than a sponsorship or charity donation. . Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 11:14:48 -0600 From: djones at iex.com (Douglas R. Jones) Subject: SA Labels I was reading with interest the SA summary posted by JK Hopp. I drink quite a bit of SA. I generally like it. His ale is a bit hoppy for me but I drink it nevertheless. I use his bottles to bottle my brew. If you want the labels off, and get them clean, soak them in a solution of Chlorinated TSP. I used 1 pound in about 10 gallons of water. In a day the labels were history! Doug - ------------------------------------------------------------------- 'I am a traveler of | Douglas R. Jones both Time and Space' | IEX Corporation Led Zeppelin | (214)301-1307 | djones at iex.com - ------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 12:30:58 -0400 From: Kelvin Kapteyn <kelvink at mtu.edu> Subject: Re: Phenolic aroma & Wyeast scottish ale (#1728) Chuck sez: >The blowoff from my high gravity (1.080) batch, fermenting with re- >pitched Wyeast Scottish ale (1068?) initially had bananna aroma, but >now, three days after pitching, has slight phenolic aroma (smokey- >bandaid, clove). It is fermenting at 70-75 degF. ^^^^^^^^^^ I am quite sure the fermentation temperature is the problem. Rich Fortnum told me this yeast does "strange things at warmer temperatures". I have had good luck with it at 62 to 65 degF. I have noticed that this yeast seems to be extremely attenuative (for example, a 1.068 OG extract batch went to 1.008!) Have others noticed this? I have a scotch (OG 1.100) going with it now at 62F, and haven't noticed anything strange coming out of the airlock. If you can, I recommend you cool it down below 70F, and preferably below 65F and hope the phenolics are scrubbed out by the CO2. Scotch ales are traditionally brewed at cool temperatures to help get that clean maltiness they are known for. The Caledonia, for example ferments starting at about 61F, and lets the temp drift up to a maximum of 65F during the fermentation. The scottish ale yeast (Wyeasy #1728) seems to require that. I suppose this will draw lots of comments from others who have made great beer with this yeast at 90F or something, but what the heck! -Kelvin (kelvink at mtu.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 11:41:40 -0600 From: djones at iex.com (Douglas R. Jones) Subject: Thanks to all! Thanks to those who responded to my cry for help! My 1st batch has turned out to be quite nice. Took about a month to get decent carbonation. Nice color, good flavor. Not bad for a straight extract brew. My 2nd batch has carbonated well in just 2 weeks. Not sure why. I used less extract and added my own hops and a different yeast. Doesn't matter it's light and nice. 3rd batch has been in the bottle a week now. This one was extract, DME, hops, and crystal malt! I can't wait! Thanks again, Doug (A very happy extract brewer using only a primary) - ------------------------------------------------------------------- 'I am a traveler of | Douglas R. Jones both Time and Space' | IEX Corporation Led Zeppelin | (214)301-1307 | djones at iex.com - ------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Jul 1994 09:31:36 -0800 From: "Harrington, Stephen J" <sharrington at msmail4.hac.com> Subject: SG with suspensions I thought I would add the following data point to the discussions of SGs. I bottled a Pale Ale (OG = 1.052) yesterday, and took a sample right at the start of siphoning into my bottling bucket. The sample was very cloudy due to the sediment at the bottom of the carboy. The FG was 1.022 (Oh no! Too high. Add less priming sugar). When bottling was complete, I had enough left in the bottom of the bucket for another sample. The reading was 1.017 -- more in line with what i expected and this included the priming sugar I added. Given this result, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize that a sample needs to have all suspensions settled out before the measurement is taken. Regarding Wyeast w/o packets: My homebrew supplier said that the first shipment of the new yeasts which he received did not have the packet, but the later shipments have all had them. He had not heard that they were going to be eliminating the packet. I posted a concern over a Jinxed Pils. Mark Evans pointed out that temperature changes can cause lager yeast to 'hide' for a while. He also told me not to be concerned over racking out all of the yeast and suggested that I try and recycle a good liquid yeast. Spencer Thomas astutely said: "Another possibility in your case is this: when you racked, you drove CO2 out of solution. At the low fermentation rate you've now got going in your secondary, all the CO2 is going into solution (CO2 is very soluble at low temperatures). If this hypothesis is correct, then you'll start to see bubbles eventually." I think this is what happened because after I racked into secondary, I topped the carboy up to 5 gallons with preboiled water. This, of course, has no C02 in it, so the apparent cease in fermentation was an illusion. The CO2 was not bubbling out because it was in the process of saturating the solution. The Pils has a very small ring of bubbles at the neck now and there is positive pressure in the carboy. Once again a case of needless worry. Now for a homebrew! Thanks to all for your inputs. Stephen Harrington Manhattan Beach, CA Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Jul 1994 09:58:34 -0700 From: "Dave Suurballe" <suurb at farallon.com> Subject: mail-order alert This is posted for a friend. The spelling is his, not mine. The emotion is his, not mine. Mail-order buyer beware I just had a thourally unpleasant experience with a newer Brew mail-order business, the 'Brew Club' in Santa Cruz. I placed a fairly large order which included a carbonator (CO2 fitting for a PET bottle). When I got the order, I noticed I'd been overcharged for this item ($10 in catalog.. $13 on invoice) I called to inquire and the woman who always answers said that their supplier had raised his prices and I could either accept it or mail it back (at my expense). I decided to keep it. A week later I tried it and found it to be defective, altho it made a wonderful beer super-soaker :(. I called back and she said that the whole batch was defective and she'd send a replacement. This too was defective but this time when I called I was told that I would have to return it (at my expense) to get a replacement. I did, and when I called a week later to confirm receipt I was told that since I'd only returned one, that no further refunds would be given. I told her I wasn't aware that she'd wanted the original, at which point she began whining about her problems with her supplier. I suggested that if her supplier was more important than her customer, perhaps she was in the wrong business. She said tough beans, and I would not get a refund. At this point, I'm out $15 with zero recourse. I won't be doing any further business with this so-called 'Brew Club'. I now realize that once they've got your credit card #, you're pretty much at their mercy. I've dealt with other homebrew mail-order businesses and on those rare occasions when there were problems, they've always been professional and customer focussed. The moral I guess is deal with a reputable, established dealer and not a fly-by-night shoestring operation. | WATCH OUT ! My dogma's driving my karma on the info super-highway | | ------------------------------------------------------------------- | | JACK DAWSON JSDAWS1 415 545-0299 CUSTOMER BILLING SYSTEMS | Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 10:06:58 -0800 From: especkma at reed.edu (Erik Speckman) Subject: More JK commentary I think, quite aside from all his other sins, the thing that bothers me most about Jim Koch is his wrapping himself in the flag of the microbrew revolution. I don't think I am alone in this and, for me, at least, it has nothing to do with the fact that I don't think SA has ever qualified as a micro. The problem is that this arrogant statement totally ignores the history of microbreweries in the western parts of the USA, where Anchor was the preeminent (if not the only) craft brewer in the country by the mid '70s. Even if you don't consider Anchor a micro, consider that Seirra Nevada, Grant's, and Red Hook had 2-3 years of production behind them when Boston Lager debuted in '85. By that time Widmer, Hale's, Pyramid, Thomas Kemper and Bridgeport were in production in the Pacific Northwest alone. Hell, even Utah had its first Micro by 1986. SA may be successful and have wider distribution and larger sales than any of the craft breweries I have mentioned but that doesn't change the fact that, in the west, at the very least, there was a strong "grass roots" craft brew movement underway before SA brewed its first beer. (My bias towards western breweries results mostly out of ignorance of the history of micros and craft beer in the east, but that doesn't change the fact that JK was not the brewer he claims to be. I would be interesting in hearing some of the "early" history of the craft beer movement in the east, via e-mail, of course) Cheers. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 13:36 EST From: CLAY at prism.clemson.edu Subject: Japanese beetles More on Japanese Beetles from an actual ENTOMOLOGIST. Hope somebody hasn't already covered this. Japanese (not "Jap" beetles, please) beetles were introduced to the US via NJ in about 1916. They have spread extensively since then. There are a variety of products labeled for control of adults. Carbaryl (Sevin) and malathion are commonly available and broadly labeled. FOLLOW THE LABEL. If a little is good, stop there. More is only more dangerous. Neither have shown any health effects from chronic occupational exposure or animal studies as of 1992. A nitrite-carbaryl compound has caused tumors in male rats, however. Malathion concentrate will etch automobile paint (see drift, below). The half-life of carbaryl in (unspecified in my reference) crop plants is about two weeks. You may also have some luck with Bacillus thuringiensis "BT" or "BTi" preparations ("Thuricide," "Dipel"). Be aware that it is illegal to use a product unless it is labeled for that crop, and it is unlikely that there is much labeled for hops. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service (at your land grant university, in the phone book under "Agriculture") to see if any local exemptions have been granted for your state. They know a lot more than Billy-Bob down at the feed store. They may also have specific information on hop growing in your state. Be careful when treating tall hop vines that you do not allow pesticide to drift onto adjacent property - that's a violation of the law. It is also likely that the pesticide you are using is not labeled for hops - another violation of the law. Be especially careful if your neighbors keep bees - bees are not hard to kill and are specifically protected by most pesticide labels. Pesticide regulators have far larger fish to fry, however, than this kind of thing unless it's brought to their attention (by an irate drifted- upon neighbor, for example). Milky spore disease preparations are effective and reasonably selective but are slow, as they work by suppressing the population of larvae in the soil (good control is not usually achieved until the second or third season). The larger the area you can treat (your property only, mind you) the longer the recolonization interval (the time it will take 'em to find your plants) will be. Parasite / predator introductions have shown promise in a few cases, but no commercial preparations are available. Major native predators are wheel bugs (Arilus cristatus L. - if you've ever seen one you'd remember it) and predatory stinkbugs (Podisus sp.). Birds, particularly grackles and starlings, are also effective predators of the adults. Pheromone and bait traps are effective, but as noted should be placed away from the crop. The idea is to establish a perimeter so that arriving insects will be distracted before they reach the crop. Same with UV bug-zappers; studies have shown that they attract FAR more than they kill, but will suppress populations in a small area if set up around the perimeter. Most people do not use enough of either to be effective. That doesn't mean you need a zillion. Read the label and use the maximum number allowed. Hops are a minor crop and it is unlikely that, if any pesticide products are currently labeled for use on them, they will continue to be after the re-registration process (as you may have heard, re- registration and special review by EPA makes glaciers look speedy). Given this fact and the emphasis on natural ingredients and purity among brewers mega, micro and home, I am certain that there is an IPM (Integrated Pest Management) program either in place or under development for insects and diseases of hops. The logical place to start looking would be USDA's research station in Yakima, WA, or the good folks at WA State U in Pulman, who have their own experiment stations. Make a phone call or try the Internet (I have only limited access or I'd have done it for you); you'll make some entomologist's whole day by bringing them a chance to use what they know to help a specific person. P.S. Lance- thieves and whores are thieves and whores regardless of where they work, buddy. So are decent and honorable people. I wouldn't assume that your opinions regarding aircraft are automatically tainted... C.C. Lay CLAY at CLUST1.CLEMSON.EDU James Island, SC Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 13:51:54 EDT From: Mark Gugel <mdgugel at mtu.edu> Subject: RE: Thin mash; sterility; Columbus brewing? Bill Marks asks what's wrong with a thin mash. Although purists may disagree, I would say nothing. When the total mash and sparge volume is excessive, there is a possibility that you may extract more tanins from the hulls, but a few quarts more or less won't probably be noticed. Thomas asks about sterility. I usually sterrilize all brewing equipment, bottels, etc. before using them the first time using a fairly strong bleach sollution (as directed on the back of my bottle). For subsequent batches, I don't feel it's necessary to sterrilize provided I clean equipment and bottles immediately after use. Rather, I sanitize using sodium bisulfite (available from most brew supply stores) or as a last resort with a mild bleach solution (directions for sanitization also on the bottle). In 12 years I have never had a gusher, but I'm damn picky about cleaning all equipment as soon as I'm done using it. Don't wory about nasties on hops spoiling your wort. If added to the brew kettle, the boiling wort will kill all nasties. If added to the secondary fermentor, your strong yeast culture should be domimant over any minor infections that could be trans- ferred with the hops. Lance asks about the possibility of converting spoiled beer into fuel. I don't know if anyone has had success with this, but my beer would be too dilute from tears to be useful in any distillation. Now for a question of my own. I'm contemplating moving to Columbus, Ohio. Can anyone comment on whether our chosen hoby is legal there. If so, can anyone comment on the water quality. Thanks in advance Mark D. Gugel Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 13:43:16 -0500 (CDT) From: winstead%brauerei at cs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead) Subject: HDPE Brutes as fermenters/Homebrew Favorites (Book Review)/Questions for 1/2 Barrel Keg FAQ Could someone that uses a HDPE (High-Density Polyethelene) Brute as a fermenter please e-mail me or post instructions on where to get one and how to make it air-tight? I want to find something that I can ferment 10 gallons of ale in, so I think that I want about an 11 to 12 gallon "Brute". - -------- "Homebrew Favorites" is out. It's a collection of homebrew recipes assembled by Karl Lutzen and Mark Stevens (who compiled Cat's Meow and Cat's Meow 2). Just to throw in my $.02 -- excellent book. No typos, even (rare for a homebrew book). My only complaint is that it didn't have more than one or two recipes for some of the more arcane style. It's $12.95 US, published by Storey Communications, Inc. No affiliation or financial interest, etc. - -------- I have begun compiling questions/answers for the 1/2 barrel converted keg FAQ. If you have anything that you would like to contribute, please email it to me at winstead at cs.tulane.edu. If you have questions that you think belong in the FAQ, mail them to me, too. Finally, if you would like to write a short discourse on the subtle and not-so-subtle differences between Sankey/Hoff-Stevens/Golden Gate kegs and their usefullness to homebrewers, why don't you email that to me, too. Oh, and lastly if you'd like to assemble information/arguments on the legality/illegality of using kegs in homebreweries, I'll take that, too. You will be recognized for your contributions. - -- Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead | winstead at cs.tulane.edu (Preferred) | winstead%brauerei.uucp at cs.tulane.edu | Fanatical Homebrewer & CS Undergrad/Grad | Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 15:03:05 EDT From: "Ilmonen, Irene A" <IILMONEN at NMU.EDU> Subject: Killian's Red I'm yet another new, but soon to be avid, homebrewer. I've got one wonderful Canadian Lager currently being consumed and an English Ale in the fermentor. (This is way too much fun!) I do need help, however, in finding a recipe for a beer as near as possible to Killian's Red. In the week or so that I've been reading HBD, I haven't seen any posts on this. Anyone have a recipe they'd like to share? E-mail me if you wish. Thanks....Irene Ilmonen at NMU.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 15:20:47 EDT From: Hauptbrau at aol.com Subject: Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #14... Has anyone heard the Bud Commercial that talks about how bad homebrew is and how home brewers are brewmeister wantabee's? I think Bud has made the commercial in bad taste. In the past I would drink Bud if I was in some tavern that only served the MillerBud regulars. That has all changed. Has anyone else heard these commercials? What do you think? Should fellow homebrewers get together and boycott? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 16:52 EST From: RON.admin at admin.creol.ucf.edu (RON) Subject: Brush with Greatness Had a chance to attend an invitation only beer/food tasting featuring Jim Koch and his beers. It was at a Italian restaurant called "Antonio's" here in Orlando Florida. About 70 people attended, mostly distributors, local restaurant/bar owners, suit and tie handshakers. Only a handful of local brewers. The evening started with the lager, his favorite. The Italian style food & beer combo went as follows: Sorry for the lack of specifics with the food, but I forgot to keep the handout of the evenings menu ingredients. * Some soft Brie like cheese in Puff Pastry with Half Pear Blanched in Dark Wheat Beer served with Summer Wheat Beer. * Dumplings cooked in a cream sauce with a Duck Ragu served with Boston Stock Ale * entree- Roast Chicken with Italian Sausage, Onions and Green and Red Peppers served with Double Bock * Espresso Moose served with Cream Stout * Bread Pudding with served with Honey Porter - first cases in Florida The Cream Stout and the Honey Porter were served at room temperature, all others were ice cold. The servers were pouring the beer to glasses, not decanting. I noticed Jim pouring one for himself till it foamed over and shook the bottle to get the froth from the end of the bottle into his glass. Jim came across as being very personable. Before the dinner he talked to the chefs and tasted most of the foods being served to make sure they "worked" well with his beers. He didn't have any sort of speech prepared, just talked about each of the beers being served and had a few funny stories, very casual. He enjoyed mingling and talking to everyone that attended. He spoke of the importance of freshness and quality of ingredients. He stressed the fact that beer is a food and should be treated as such. Afterwards he sat with 3-4 of us for an hour or so and enjoyed more of his beer and talked brewing and beer. Some interesting facts: - Double Bock has half pound of malt per bottle. - By chance, it was 10 years ago this week that Jim started the Boston Brewing Co. - Jim's father had an interesting diet plan - "There is food in beer, but if there isn't any beer in the food just drink beer." - Triple Bock is aged in old Jack Daniel barrels. Its taken three years to isolate his "ninja" yeast for the brew. It is a 17% alcohol brew, 18% is the limit for yeast. Bottles are 8 oz. cobalt blue with a X caret gold label and a sherry style cork. Will not be available in Florida (only state, DOH!) Bash him if you like - I enjoy(ed) his beers. Standard Disclaimers apply! Ron Raike CREOL/UCF - Orlando FL \|/ - -----------------------------------------*-- ron at laser.creol.ucf.edu /|\ Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Jul 94 16:40:00 -0500 From: COTE_FRANK at chicago.tandem.com Subject: The best Mini-Kegger?? And old Extract? Hello all, I know this has been discussed before by I guess I missed a summary message about it, BUT, What is the best mini kegger??? I've seen a few of the "big can" types and they look fairly flimsey. I've heard of the "Party Ball" type but are they all the same, and is there a down side with them? I'd like something made to last a long time. I'll print up a summary and post it unless that's already been done. I'd like to know about suppliers and everything. I have a second question about how long canned extract lasts. I have a 6lb. can that I think is over 10 years old. Is it worth opening? Thanks in advance, Frank Cote Systems Analyst Tandem Computers Chicago, Il. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 17:21:52 EDT From: <TJWILLIA%OCC.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Multi-strain yeasts Dominick asked in HBD #1481 about experiences with Wyeast 1338 -European ale yeast. I've never used it, but I got to thinking about plating multi-strained yeasts ... He states that the colonies look _very_different. What if each strain were very close in morphology? How would you be able to insure that both make it into a starter? Short of single-cell isolation, has anyone done this using *home* techniques? Maybe I'm wasting bandwidth? Could be, but inquiring minds want to know. Brews to you. Tom Williams tjwillia at occ.bitnet Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 15:40:26 -0700 (PDT) From: malodah at pbgueuze.scrm2700.PacBell.COM (Martin Lodahl) Subject: Guests at Club Meetings In HOMEBREW Digest #1481, Bob Talkiewicz<btalk at aol.com> observed: > My club charges $2/guest/meeting. It adds a few meager bucks to the club > coffer, but is small enough that nobody complains. Some guests have become > members, although it seems that most of them are visiting from out of town. > At least they get to brag about all the great beer theytasted for only $2. > Guests also get a newsletter for a month or two. I'll tell you, had someone hit me up for money when I appeared for my first club meeting, I would never have attended a second one. We do have some sort of policy like that "on the books," adopted at a time when we had several people who came to meeting after meeting to suck up the beer. These parasites didn't brew and had no real plans to start, and never brought beer of any kind to share, but they always brought their mugs, you betcha ... So we adopted that policy, and it did indeed chase away our tapeworms, and then we dropped the enforcement of it altogether in the interest of putting on our most friendly face to prospective members. This is a situation, I think, where the gesture, rather than the actual dollar amount, sends the message. I've noticed, by the way, that hardly anyone attends two meetings without joining. - Martin = Martin Lodahl Systems Analyst, Capacity Planning, Pacific*Bell = = malodah at pacbell.com Sacramento, CA USA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! (Unk.) = Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 17:51:00 PDT From: "McGaughey, Nial" <nmcgaugh at hq.walldata.com> Subject: bulk grain purchases (Seattle)/used Elephant Kegs/source for ?55gal? Hi all. The first item is probably for people in the Seattle/Bellevue/King county area. although anyone with some experiences in this area, your info/caveats would be appreciated. I am interested in buying a bulk shipment of Belgian DeWolf- Cosyns Pale Ale Malt, uncrushed, from Certified foods in California. The thing is: they only accept orders of 500 lbs or more (in 50 lb sacks) It would be a _looonnnng_ time before I could use all that grain, so is anyone else out there interested in buying into a BIG shipment of uncrushed, premium grain? I dont know If I can mix and match grain types within the order, but they carry the full line of DWC specialty grains, including Special B and color malts. Keep in mind that the only individual size is 50 lb sacks. their price on 500lbs of Pale Ale Malt is $.53 per pound. This isn't the best deal on basic Pale Ale Malt, but keep in mind that this is a higher grade of grain. If anyone knows of a competitor that can match apples to apples, let me know!! For more info E-mail: nmcgaugh at hq.walldata.com Does anyone know of a good source for used *elephant* kegs? these are the ***HUGE*** kegs that breweries used to use a few years ago, before the days of spinal litigation..you probably can guess what I want it for. Mail order is fine.. *no* i'm not gonna be using 300lbs of the DWC malt order on this baby.. :*) On a similar note: anybody know of a good source for ??55?? gallon food grade buckets?? These would have to be beer/wine/mead/cider friendly, and airtight(lid) and preferrably nonporous (walls) for grain storage or fermenters.(getting into the lambic/barleywine/mead kick) cole parmer has been pathetically slow in getting me a catalog, and all of the restaraunt supply places give me a funny look... maybe its the 'crown of hops' round my gourd... :) yours in excessiveness, and equipment mania... (no i'm not from texas...) Nial McGaughey Wall Data Product Development 'say WARSHINGTON state, pal' ' who are you anyways? ' 'smells like a brewery in here... ' Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 00:42:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Dodger Posey <dodger at quack.kfu.com> Subject: Warthog Ale Recipe? Just probing the wort for any adventurous soul who has crafted a close second to Big Rock Brewery's Warthog Ale. It's my favorite (amongst 10 or 12) and would be thrilled to attempt a copy if any expert out there could point me in the right direction. Related Note: I received lots of inpu from my request for info to assist me in creating Habanero Beer. I'm close to bottling, and I'll submit a compilation of responses, but I'll say this now...The overwhelming majority indicated Habanero Beer is most dangerous if not done in tiny additions, and some submitted horror stories. Beware the Mighty Habanero! thanks, dodger posey dodger at quack.kfu.com t Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 09:50:44 +0000 From: Brian Gowland <B.Gowland at rhbnc.ac.uk> (Tel +44 784 443167) Subject: Gott coolers. - -----Multi-Part-Message-Level-1-1-29968 Having seen various references to "Gott coolers", I came to the realisation that these are the big insulated boxes that you take on picnics to keep stuff cool (homebrew being one example). I haven't heard the name "Gott" in the UK so wasn't sure at first. Since then, I've spent a couple of weeks, on and off, checking out every picnic cooler I could find in any shops I happened to be in. The 10 gallon capacity has often been mentioned as the best size - could I find a 10 gallon cooler? Not a chance. "Perservere Brian, I told myself". Then today, reading HBD 1482 about Gott coolers, it dawned on me.... For those who haven't guessed it by now - you're obviously all talking about 10 US gallon capacity - I've been looking at these things in EVERY SHOP I've been in but because I was thinking 10 Imp. gallons I ignored them. Picnic coolers here are marked in Litres - the 35 Litre capacity ones that I've seen everywhere are 9 1/4 US gallons which is probably as near as I'm going to get. I've been looking for 45 Litre coolers! Oh well. One small example of confusion "across the water". Cheers, Brian - -----Multi-Part-Message-Level-1-1-29968 | | | Brian Gowland Computer Centre | Microcomputer Support Analyst Royal Holloway | University of London | B.Gowland at rhbnc.ac.uk Egham | Tel: (0784) 443167 Surrey | Fax: (0784) 434348 TW20 0EX | | - -----Multi-Part-Message-Level-1-1-29968-- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 94 8:55:49 EDT From: abaucom at fester.swales.com Subject: o-rings Does anyone have a good source for the large o-rings off the 5-gallon soda syrup containers? Funny, they almost look like vacuum cleaner belts! The local brew shop wants $4.50 a piece...that seems kind of pricey for a rubber o-ring. Yes, yes I am cheap :-| but I need a bunch... Thanks for your thoughts, -Andrew - ------ Andrew W. Baucom, abaucom at fester.swales.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 08:52:09 -0400 From: keithfrank at dow.com (R. Keith Frank) Subject: Re: San Diego Brewpubs ... Funny you should ask. I just returned from San Diego last week. I visited three Brew Pubs while I was there, two down town and one in La Jolla. The Columbia Brewery was my least favorite. The beer was so-so and the service was terrible. Brewski's (may change name to Riptide Brewery) was good (beer, food, and service). The La Jolla Brewery was small, but did have good beer. Have fun in San Diego. Keith Frank keithfrank at dow.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 09:04:48 -0400 (ADT) From: David Rodger <drodger at access.digex.net> Subject: Cloudy Hoses Results Thanks to all who replied to me about cloudy hoses. The overwhelming response was, "No Problem." Several people asked me what could there possibly be to worry about it, so I checked my books (Miller and Papazian), and didn't find what I thought I'd read. They mention that the hoses shouldn't have stains, as a probable sign of infection, but nothing about plain old cloudiness. In fact, I even got one response telling me how to "dry out" the hoses if I so desired; put in a paper bag in an oven (200deg F) for a few minutes. I haven't tried it, but I will. Thanks again for the replies! - Dave - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- David Rodger drodger at access.digex.net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 08:34:03 -0500 (EST) From: Sandy Cockerham <COCKERHAM_SANDRA_L at Lilly.com> Subject: Re: Gott mashing I have found that pre-heating my Gott with 150+ degree (F) water really helps keep the mash temp. from dropping so much. I too, have found that it drops only 1-2 degrees. Good luck and good beer! Sandy C. From: COCKERHAM SANDRA L (MCVAX0::RX31852) To: VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE (IN::"homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com") Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 09:48:10 -0500 (EST) From: Bruce Wiggins <FAC_BWIGGINS at VAX1.ACS.JMU.EDU> Subject: hydrometers In response to a recent post about paper in hydrometers, I checked two scientific product catalogs. There were many kinds, but all of the ones that were pictured had paper inside of glass or plastic--even the ones used for ASTM testing. So they must be OK. Bruce Wiggins fac_bwiggins at vax1.acs.jmu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Jul 94 07:46:00 -0700 From: COTE_FRANK at Tandem.COM Subject: The best Mini-Kegger?? Old Extract? Hello all, I know this has been discussed before but I guess I missed a summary message about it, SOOO, What is the best mini kegger??? I've seen a few of the "big can" types and they look fairly flimsey. I've heard of the "Party Ball" type but are they all the same, and is there a down side with them? I'd like something made to last a long time. I'll print up a summary and post it unless that's already been done. I'd like to know about suppliers and everything. I have a second question about how long canned extract lasts. I have a 6lb. can that I think is over 10 years old. Is it worth opening? The brand is Bierhaus Danish Light I think. Thanks in advance, Frank Cote System Analyst Tandem Computers Chicago, Il. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 10:16:26 -0600 From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans) Subject: Gossip/Whining/Bandwidth/Purpose? Is it just me or do I sense an awful lot of bandwidth being used for Gossip and whining about the heads of established breweries and other individuals? Do we just assume that it is very "American" to poke our noses into other's business? What do the non-American HBD readers (you Canadian readers know what I mean by "American" here) think of all this bashing? What is the purpose of the HBD? Is it here to help others with the brewing process? Keep any responses brief or better yet, just ask a brew question instead. Perhaps there is some usenet area like "Rec.Hbd.people.bashing" where interested individuals can vent their opinions/jealousies towards others. Mark Evans Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 10:14:31 -0500 (CDT) From: Andrew Patrick <andnator at mcs.com> Subject: Bacteria In HBD1481 Algis Writes : >You must be careful about sanitation, however, since lactose is >fermentable by lactic acid bacteria. And in HBD1482 He also writes : >I suspect either overdoing Cascade or Centennial hops or a citrobacter >infection are your problems. Al, Where DO you get your bacterial information. Please cite some references. I find it interesting that the lactose fermentation with production of of CO2/or other gas of beer spoiling Lactobacillus was never mentioned in the Microbiology course at Siebel, and also that Citrobacter was never mentioned at all. Can anyone else confirm Al's suspicion based on the literal translation of the Genius name. Not trying to flame you Al, just want to make sure the facts are straight. => Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514 HBU-BBS (708) 705-7263 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 09:25:05 -0600 From: John Harres <Harres at UWyo.Edu> Subject: new question Still working on my first batch, I sanitized the secondary (ok, I sanitized everything), added 1oz Fuggles and 1oz Golding hops pellets to it, then racked the beer into it. It's one week later, and not bubbling at all, but I do see bits of hops rising and falling in the beer. The haze is gradually clearing, but I see no signs of the hops getting out of the way so I can bottle. Should I just keep waiting and expect the hops to all settle (most seem to be floating on top of the beer since the start) to the bottom? John - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ John Harres | "The light works," he said, indicating the window, "the | gravity works," he said, dropping a pencil on the floor. harres at uwyo.edu | "Anything else we have to take our chances with." | -- Dirk Gently (by Douglas Adams) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 94 9:22:54 MDT From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com Subject: Bud Yeast Don Put writes about the yeast which is "used in St. Louis": >One other thing: the beer took a LONG time to clear, and I never have had >haze problems in my beer. I'm wondering if this an extremely poor >flocculator; my experience seems to indicate this. I resorted to fining it >to clear it up, and I've never done that to a batch before as I prefer the >clarity that comes from patience and natural aging. Don, ever wonder why they use "beechwood aging"? Hint, it has little to do with taste, and a lot to do with flocculation. Cheers, Norm npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1483, 07/23/94