HOMEBREW Digest #1483 Sat 23 July 1994
Digest #1482
Digest #1484
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Pepper beer and clarification (Sean C. Cox)
Topping off the boil, Siphoning (Dan Wood)
HSA during mash (Mark Worwetz)
English pub info (Jim Dipalma)
Anchor Brewing Advertising (David Pike)
SA Labels (Douglas R. Jones)
Re: Phenolic aroma & Wyeast scottish ale (#1728) (Kelvin Kapteyn)
Thanks to all! (Douglas R. Jones)
SG with suspensions ("Harrington, Stephen J")
mail-order alert ("Dave Suurballe")
More JK commentary (Erik Speckman)
Japanese beetles (CLAY)
RE: Thin mash; sterility; Columbus brewing? (Mark Gugel)
HDPE Brutes as fermenters/Homebrew Favorites (Book Review)/Questions for 1/2 Barrel Keg FAQ (Teddy Winstead)
Killian's Red ("Ilmonen, Irene A")
Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #14... (Hauptbrau)
Brush with Greatness (RON)
The best Mini-Kegger?? And old Extract? (COTE_FRANK)
Multi-strain yeasts (TJWILLIA)
Guests at Club Meetings (Martin Lodahl)
bulk grain purchases (Seattle)/used Elephant Kegs/source for ?55gal? ("McGaughey, Nial")
Warthog Ale Recipe? (Dodger Posey)
Gott coolers. (Tel +44 784 443167)
o-rings (abaucom)
Re: San Diego Brewpubs (R. Keith Frank)
Cloudy Hoses Results (David Rodger)
Re: Gott mashing (Sandy Cockerham)
hydrometers (Bruce Wiggins)
The best Mini-Kegger?? Old Extract? (COTE_FRANK)
Gossip/Whining/Bandwidth/Purpose? (Mark Evans)
Bacteria (Andrew Patrick)
new question (John Harres)
Bud Yeast (npyle)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 10:33:37 EDT
From: scox at factset.com (Sean C. Cox)
Subject: Pepper beer and clarification
Greetings all,
I've just tried a pepper beer I started a couple weeks ago, and I
noticed something unusual. It was amazingly clear. Clearer than any beer
I've ever made (I've been brewing, extract only, for about 4yrs). I didn't
use any finings of any sort, and it fermented (and aged) in a corner of my
non-airconditioned CT apartment (temps in the 70s-90s) for less than 3
weeks start to finish.
The recipe follows:
1 can (4lb) Alexanders wheat malt
1 can (1.4lb) Alexanders pale malt kicker
1oz Cascades (boil)
1/2 oz. Cascades (finish)
2 Scotch Bonnet peppers (habaneros) diced, frozen
(the only way I can stand to cut them, zow!)
Winsor yeast First time I tried this one. (Dry yeast, BTW).
Boiled for about 45 minutes, added the peppers after the heat was
shut off. Cooled by immersing the pot in ice water bath. Piched yeast from
starter (about 20oz, made in Alexanders can). Bottled in a week, aged about
two (maybe a day or two less).
When I poured the first sample the other day is was clear, a lovely
amber color, but totally clear! (It also has a nice mellow pepper finish :-9 )
It looked like it had been filtered or something, but there was a good
sedmient on the bottom, so I know there were yeast in there :-)
Any ideas as to what might have done this? Perhaps the capiscum(sp?)
in the peppers? Maybe some really fine yeast? I'd certainly like to be able
to replicate this clarity (esp. for a nice light amber beer!).
-- Sean
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=-=- Sean Cox =-= FactSet Data Systems -=- scox at factset.com =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=EOT
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 09:35:54 CDT
From: wood at ranger.rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Topping off the boil, Siphoning
In #1480, I posted details of a dispute between brew-buddy Brent and I
regarding topping off the boil, and whether it would lead to HSA,
impotence, etc. Since I've seen no HBD replies, and the only email
replies I received expressed confusion about what the heck "topping off
the boil" means, I'll eat a little more BW explaining, then pray to
Ninkasi for guidance.
My cut-off keg brewpot holds about 12g (regretfully, I cut it off at the
sides). While I go so far as to dare 5g batches to boil over, I am
humbled when dealing with 10g, since I'm down to about 8" of headspace.
For these 10g batches, rather than watch the brewpot constantly, I've
been first boiling 8g of wort (providing that much needed extra few
of inches of headspace), then adding hops, then finally adding 2g of
hot tap water (well water, no chlorine), restoring the boil, and boiling
for the next hour, usually with stepped hop additions.
The hot tap water sits for a few minutes prior to addition, and seems
relatively oxygen free. I try to pour slowly, and avoid splashing.
So, wise ones: is this hosed, or a good solution for cranking out those
bigger batches?
On siphoning: You can't beat the curved "candy cane" style racking
canes with the plastic cup at the tip. I like to store the carboy
with the back side elevated about 1/4", leaving a shallow spot in the
sludge. The racking cane then fits well diagonally in the carboy, with
the tip in the shallow spot. Works like a charm.
I have a cone shaped plastic thing designed to sit in the neck of the
carboy, with a grove through it to hold the racking cane. This thing
is a series of stepped cylinders, much like the drill bits that cut
increasingly large holes. It worked OK, but I like the curved cane
better. It came from a brew supply store in Grand Rapids, MI: I'm
not recommending it, just providing a lead if anyone is interested.
Dan Wood Chief Anarchist, FVHAA wood at cig.mot.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 08:58:26 -0600 (MDT)
From: Mark_Worwetz at Novell.COM (Mark Worwetz)
Subject: HSA during mash
Howdy from Zion!
I am just beginning my foray into all-grain brewing (mainly concern over
content of extracts!) and have been avidly reading the advice given here.
My question is about HSA during lautering. I knew that splashing wort into
a fermenter caused HSA, but I was under the impression that aeration
in the extract before the boil would be totally removed by the boil.
Does the lauter HSA cause off flavors that are not removed by the boil?
Do the extract sugars get oxidized by splashing the runnings?
I have other friends who read the HBD and are ready to go all-grain. A
nice explanation about this pre-boil HSA problem might spare we Utarrr
pioneers a wasted trip to the feed-store for grain. (Wooden wheels
ain't cheap!)
TIA and Happy Pioneer Days of '47 (7/24) !!
Mark Worwetz
Engineer, Patriot(TM), Brewer(TM)
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 11:09:05 EDT
From: dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma)
Subject: English pub info
Hi All,
My wife and I are planning a trip to England this fall to celebrate our
anniversary. She doesn't brew, but where beer is concerned she is an
enthusiastic "end-user". We're in the process of planning our itinerary,
and naturally we want to stop at as many pubs that serve cask-conditioned
real ale as possible.
Can some kind soul please tell me where I can find the CAMRA guide? I'd
also appreciate any personal recommendations. Private email please to
conserve bandwidth, I'll send a copy of the responses to anyone who asks.
Thanks,
Jim dipalma at sky.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 08:49:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: davep at corp.cirrus.com (David Pike)
Subject: Anchor Brewing Advertising
The Anchor Brewing company has only done one advertizement to my knowledge.
During the 1992-1993 Baseball season, they put an ad in the Candlestick Park
baseball program that said, "The hometown beer supports the hometown team",
along with a picture of the Steam beer logo. The helped them get the Steam
beer into the Stick for the baseball season.
But Fritz M. does sponsor artistic endevours such as 'the Anchor Players',
I think this is a string quartet, or some such. But I have never heard of
any other ad, rather than a sponsorship or charity donation.
.
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 11:14:48 -0600
From: djones at iex.com (Douglas R. Jones)
Subject: SA Labels
I was reading with interest the SA summary posted by JK Hopp. I drink
quite a bit of SA. I generally like it. His ale is a bit hoppy for me
but I drink it nevertheless. I use his bottles to bottle my brew. If
you want the labels off, and get them clean, soak them in a solution
of Chlorinated TSP. I used 1 pound in about 10 gallons of water. In a day
the labels were history!
Doug
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
'I am a traveler of | Douglas R. Jones
both Time and Space' | IEX Corporation
Led Zeppelin | (214)301-1307
| djones at iex.com
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 12:30:58 -0400
From: Kelvin Kapteyn <kelvink at mtu.edu>
Subject: Re: Phenolic aroma & Wyeast scottish ale (#1728)
Chuck sez:
>The blowoff from my high gravity (1.080) batch, fermenting with re-
>pitched Wyeast Scottish ale (1068?) initially had bananna aroma, but
>now, three days after pitching, has slight phenolic aroma (smokey-
>bandaid, clove). It is fermenting at 70-75 degF.
^^^^^^^^^^
I am quite sure the fermentation temperature is the problem. Rich Fortnum
told me this yeast does "strange things at warmer temperatures". I have
had good luck with it at 62 to 65 degF. I have noticed that this yeast
seems to be extremely attenuative (for example, a 1.068 OG extract batch
went to 1.008!) Have others noticed this? I have a scotch (OG 1.100)
going with it now at 62F, and haven't noticed anything strange coming out
of the airlock. If you can, I recommend you cool it down below 70F, and
preferably below 65F and hope the phenolics are scrubbed out by the CO2.
Scotch ales are traditionally brewed at cool temperatures to help get that
clean maltiness they are known for. The Caledonia, for example ferments
starting at about 61F, and lets the temp drift up to a maximum of 65F
during the fermentation. The scottish ale yeast (Wyeasy #1728) seems to
require that. I suppose this will draw lots of comments from others who
have made great beer with this yeast at 90F or something, but what the heck!
-Kelvin (kelvink at mtu.edu)
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 11:41:40 -0600
From: djones at iex.com (Douglas R. Jones)
Subject: Thanks to all!
Thanks to those who responded to my cry for help! My 1st batch
has turned out to be quite nice. Took about a month to get decent
carbonation. Nice color, good flavor. Not bad for a straight
extract brew. My 2nd batch has carbonated well in just 2 weeks.
Not sure why. I used less extract and added my own hops and a
different yeast. Doesn't matter it's light and nice. 3rd batch has
been in the bottle a week now. This one was extract, DME, hops,
and crystal malt! I can't wait!
Thanks again,
Doug
(A very happy extract brewer using only a primary)
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
'I am a traveler of | Douglas R. Jones
both Time and Space' | IEX Corporation
Led Zeppelin | (214)301-1307
| djones at iex.com
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Jul 1994 09:31:36 -0800
From: "Harrington, Stephen J" <sharrington at msmail4.hac.com>
Subject: SG with suspensions
I thought I would add the following data point to the discussions of SGs.
I bottled a Pale Ale (OG = 1.052) yesterday, and took a sample right at the
start of siphoning into my bottling bucket. The sample was very cloudy due
to the sediment at the bottom of the carboy. The FG was 1.022 (Oh no! Too
high. Add less priming sugar). When bottling was complete, I had enough left
in the bottom of the bucket for another sample. The reading was 1.017 --
more in line with what i expected and this included the priming sugar I
added. Given this result, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize that
a sample needs to have all suspensions settled out before the measurement is
taken.
Regarding Wyeast w/o packets: My homebrew supplier said that the first
shipment of the new yeasts which he received did not have the packet, but the
later shipments have all had them. He had not heard that they were going to
be eliminating the packet.
I posted a concern over a Jinxed Pils.
Mark Evans pointed out that temperature changes can cause lager yeast to
'hide' for a while. He also told me not to be concerned over racking out all
of the yeast and suggested that I try and recycle a good liquid yeast.
Spencer Thomas astutely said:
"Another possibility in your case is this: when you racked, you drove
CO2 out of solution. At the low fermentation rate you've now got
going in your secondary, all the CO2 is going into solution (CO2 is
very soluble at low temperatures). If this hypothesis is correct,
then you'll start to see bubbles eventually."
I think this is what happened because after I racked into secondary, I topped
the carboy up to 5 gallons with preboiled water. This, of course, has no C02
in it, so the apparent cease in fermentation was an illusion. The CO2 was
not bubbling out because it was in the process of saturating the solution.
The Pils has a very small ring of bubbles at the neck now and there is
positive pressure in the carboy. Once again a case of needless worry. Now
for a homebrew! Thanks to all for your inputs.
Stephen Harrington
Manhattan Beach, CA
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Date: 21 Jul 1994 09:58:34 -0700
From: "Dave Suurballe" <suurb at farallon.com>
Subject: mail-order alert
This is posted for a friend.
The spelling is his, not mine.
The emotion is his, not mine.
Mail-order buyer beware
I just had a thourally unpleasant experience with a newer Brew
mail-order business, the 'Brew Club' in Santa Cruz. I placed a
fairly large order which included a carbonator (CO2 fitting for a PET
bottle). When I got the order, I noticed I'd been overcharged for
this item ($10 in catalog.. $13 on invoice) I called to inquire and the
woman who always answers said that their supplier had raised his prices
and I could either accept it or mail it back (at my expense). I decided
to keep it. A week later I tried it and found it to be defective, altho
it made a wonderful beer super-soaker :(. I called back and she said
that the whole batch was defective and she'd send a replacement. This
too was defective but this time when I called I was told that I would
have to return it (at my expense) to get a replacement. I did, and when
I called a week later to confirm receipt I was told that since I'd only
returned one, that no further refunds would be given. I told her I
wasn't aware that she'd wanted the original, at which point she began
whining about her problems with her supplier. I suggested that if her
supplier was more important than her customer, perhaps she was in the
wrong business. She said tough beans, and I would not get a refund.
At this point, I'm out $15 with zero recourse. I won't be doing any
further business with this so-called 'Brew Club'. I now realize that
once they've got your credit card #, you're pretty much at their mercy.
I've dealt with other homebrew mail-order businesses and on those rare
occasions when there were problems, they've always been professional and
customer focussed. The moral I guess is deal with a reputable,
established dealer and not a fly-by-night shoestring operation.
| WATCH OUT ! My dogma's driving my karma on the info super-highway |
| ------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| JACK DAWSON JSDAWS1 415 545-0299 CUSTOMER BILLING SYSTEMS |
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Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 10:06:58 -0800
From: especkma at reed.edu (Erik Speckman)
Subject: More JK commentary
I think, quite aside from all his other sins, the thing that bothers me
most about Jim Koch is his wrapping himself in the flag of the microbrew
revolution. I don't think I am alone in this and, for me, at least, it has
nothing to do with the fact that I don't think SA has ever qualified as a
micro.
The problem is that this arrogant statement totally ignores the history of
microbreweries in the western parts of the USA, where Anchor was the
preeminent (if not the only) craft brewer in the country by the mid '70s.
Even if you don't consider Anchor a micro, consider that Seirra Nevada,
Grant's, and Red Hook had 2-3 years of production behind them when Boston
Lager debuted in '85. By that time Widmer, Hale's, Pyramid, Thomas Kemper
and Bridgeport were in production in the Pacific Northwest alone. Hell,
even Utah had its first Micro by 1986.
SA may be successful and have wider distribution and larger sales than any
of the craft breweries I have mentioned but that doesn't change the fact
that, in the west, at the very least, there was a strong "grass roots"
craft brew movement underway before SA brewed its first beer.
(My bias towards western breweries results mostly out of ignorance of the
history of micros and craft beer in the east, but that doesn't change the
fact that JK was not the brewer he claims to be. I would be interesting
in hearing some of the "early" history of the craft beer movement in the
east, via e-mail, of course)
Cheers.
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 13:36 EST
From: CLAY at prism.clemson.edu
Subject: Japanese beetles
More on Japanese Beetles from an actual ENTOMOLOGIST. Hope somebody
hasn't already covered this.
Japanese (not "Jap" beetles, please) beetles were introduced to the
US via NJ in about 1916. They have spread extensively since then.
There are a variety of products labeled for control of adults.
Carbaryl (Sevin) and malathion are commonly available and broadly
labeled. FOLLOW THE LABEL. If a little is good, stop there. More
is only more dangerous. Neither have shown any health effects from
chronic occupational exposure or animal studies as of 1992. A
nitrite-carbaryl compound has caused tumors in male rats, however.
Malathion concentrate will etch automobile paint (see drift, below).
The half-life of carbaryl in (unspecified in my reference) crop
plants is about two weeks. You may also have some luck with
Bacillus thuringiensis "BT" or "BTi" preparations ("Thuricide,"
"Dipel"). Be aware that it is illegal to use a product unless it is
labeled for that crop, and it is unlikely that there is much labeled
for hops. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service (at
your land grant university, in the phone book under "Agriculture")
to see if any local exemptions have been granted for your state.
They know a lot more than Billy-Bob down at the feed store. They
may also have specific information on hop growing in your state.
Be careful when treating tall hop vines that you do not allow
pesticide to drift onto adjacent property - that's a violation of
the law. It is also likely that the pesticide you are using is not
labeled for hops - another violation of the law. Be especially
careful if your neighbors keep bees - bees are not hard to kill and
are specifically protected by most pesticide labels. Pesticide
regulators have far larger fish to fry, however, than this kind of
thing unless it's brought to their attention (by an irate drifted-
upon neighbor, for example).
Milky spore disease preparations are effective and reasonably
selective but are slow, as they work by suppressing the population
of larvae in the soil (good control is not usually achieved until
the second or third season). The larger the area you can treat
(your property only, mind you) the longer the recolonization
interval (the time it will take 'em to find your plants) will be.
Parasite / predator introductions have shown promise in a few cases,
but no commercial preparations are available. Major native
predators are wheel bugs (Arilus cristatus L. - if you've ever seen
one you'd remember it) and predatory stinkbugs (Podisus sp.).
Birds, particularly grackles and starlings, are also effective
predators of the adults.
Pheromone and bait traps are effective, but as noted should be
placed away from the crop. The idea is to establish a perimeter so
that arriving insects will be distracted before they reach the crop.
Same with UV bug-zappers; studies have shown that they attract FAR
more than they kill, but will suppress populations in a small area
if set up around the perimeter. Most people do not use enough of
either to be effective. That doesn't mean you need a zillion. Read
the label and use the maximum number allowed.
Hops are a minor crop and it is unlikely that, if any pesticide
products are currently labeled for use on them, they will continue
to be after the re-registration process (as you may have heard, re-
registration and special review by EPA makes glaciers look speedy).
Given this fact and the emphasis on natural ingredients and purity
among brewers mega, micro and home, I am certain that there is an
IPM (Integrated Pest Management) program either in place or under
development for insects and diseases of hops. The logical place to
start looking would be USDA's research station in Yakima, WA, or the
good folks at WA State U in Pulman, who have their own experiment
stations. Make a phone call or try the Internet (I have only
limited access or I'd have done it for you); you'll make some
entomologist's whole day by bringing them a chance to use what they
know to help a specific person.
P.S. Lance- thieves and whores are thieves and whores regardless of
where they work, buddy. So are decent and honorable people. I
wouldn't assume that your opinions regarding aircraft are
automatically tainted...
C.C. Lay
CLAY at CLUST1.CLEMSON.EDU
James Island, SC
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 13:51:54 EDT
From: Mark Gugel <mdgugel at mtu.edu>
Subject: RE: Thin mash; sterility; Columbus brewing?
Bill Marks asks what's wrong with a thin mash. Although purists may disagree,
I would say nothing. When the total mash and sparge volume is excessive, there
is a possibility that you may extract more tanins from the hulls, but a few
quarts more or less won't probably be noticed.
Thomas asks about sterility. I usually sterrilize all brewing equipment,
bottels, etc. before using them the first time using a fairly strong bleach
sollution (as directed on the back of my bottle). For subsequent batches,
I don't feel it's necessary to sterrilize provided I clean equipment and
bottles immediately after use. Rather, I sanitize using sodium bisulfite
(available from most brew supply stores) or as a last resort with a mild
bleach solution (directions for sanitization also on the bottle). In 12
years I have never had a gusher, but I'm damn picky about cleaning all
equipment as soon as I'm done using it. Don't wory about nasties on hops
spoiling your wort. If added to the brew kettle, the boiling wort will
kill all nasties. If added to the secondary fermentor, your strong yeast
culture should be domimant over any minor infections that could be trans-
ferred with the hops.
Lance asks about the possibility of converting spoiled beer into fuel. I don't
know if anyone has had success with this, but my beer would be too dilute from
tears to be useful in any distillation.
Now for a question of my own. I'm contemplating moving to Columbus, Ohio.
Can anyone comment on whether our chosen hoby is legal there. If so, can
anyone comment on the water quality. Thanks in advance
Mark D. Gugel
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 13:43:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: winstead%brauerei at cs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead)
Subject: HDPE Brutes as fermenters/Homebrew Favorites (Book Review)/Questions for 1/2 Barrel Keg FAQ
Could someone that uses a HDPE (High-Density Polyethelene) Brute as a
fermenter please e-mail me or post instructions on where to get one and
how to make it air-tight? I want to find something that I can ferment
10 gallons of ale in, so I think that I want about an 11 to 12 gallon
"Brute".
- --------
"Homebrew Favorites" is out. It's a collection of homebrew recipes assembled
by Karl Lutzen and Mark Stevens (who compiled Cat's Meow and Cat's Meow 2).
Just to throw in my $.02 -- excellent book. No typos, even (rare for
a homebrew book). My only complaint is that it didn't have more than
one or two recipes for some of the more arcane style. It's $12.95 US,
published by Storey Communications, Inc. No affiliation or financial
interest, etc.
- --------
I have begun compiling questions/answers for the 1/2 barrel converted
keg FAQ. If you have anything that you would like to contribute, please
email it to me at winstead at cs.tulane.edu. If you have questions that
you think belong in the FAQ, mail them to me, too. Finally, if you would
like to write a short discourse on the subtle and not-so-subtle differences
between Sankey/Hoff-Stevens/Golden Gate kegs and their usefullness to
homebrewers, why don't you email that to me, too. Oh, and lastly if
you'd like to assemble information/arguments on the legality/illegality
of using kegs in homebreweries, I'll take that, too. You will be recognized
for your contributions.
- --
Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead |
winstead at cs.tulane.edu (Preferred) |
winstead%brauerei.uucp at cs.tulane.edu |
Fanatical Homebrewer & CS Undergrad/Grad |
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 15:03:05 EDT
From: "Ilmonen, Irene A" <IILMONEN at NMU.EDU>
Subject: Killian's Red
I'm yet another new, but soon to be avid, homebrewer. I've got one
wonderful Canadian Lager currently being consumed and an English Ale
in the fermentor. (This is way too much fun!)
I do need help, however, in finding a recipe for a beer as near as
possible to Killian's Red. In the week or so that I've been reading
HBD, I haven't seen any posts on this. Anyone have a recipe they'd
like to share? E-mail me if you wish.
Thanks....Irene Ilmonen at NMU.EDU
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Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 15:20:47 EDT
From: Hauptbrau at aol.com
Subject: Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #14...
Has anyone heard the Bud Commercial that talks about how bad homebrew is and
how home brewers are brewmeister wantabee's? I think Bud has made the
commercial in bad taste. In the past I would drink Bud if I was in some
tavern that only served the MillerBud regulars. That has all changed. Has
anyone else heard these commercials? What do you think? Should fellow
homebrewers get together and boycott?
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 16:52 EST
From: RON.admin at admin.creol.ucf.edu (RON)
Subject: Brush with Greatness
Had a chance to attend an invitation only beer/food tasting featuring
Jim Koch and his beers. It was at a Italian restaurant called
"Antonio's" here in Orlando Florida. About 70 people attended,
mostly distributors, local restaurant/bar owners, suit and tie
handshakers. Only a handful of local brewers. The evening
started with the lager, his favorite. The Italian style food &
beer combo went as follows:
Sorry for the lack of specifics with the food, but I forgot to
keep the handout of the evenings menu ingredients.
* Some soft Brie like cheese in Puff Pastry with Half Pear
Blanched in Dark Wheat Beer served
with Summer Wheat Beer.
* Dumplings cooked in a cream sauce with a Duck
Ragu served with Boston Stock Ale
* entree- Roast Chicken with Italian Sausage,
Onions and Green and Red Peppers served
with Double Bock
* Espresso Moose served with Cream Stout
* Bread Pudding with served with Honey
Porter - first cases in Florida
The Cream Stout and the Honey Porter were served at room
temperature, all others were ice cold. The servers were
pouring the beer to glasses, not decanting. I noticed Jim
pouring one for himself till it foamed over and shook the
bottle to get the froth from the end of the bottle into his glass.
Jim came across as being very personable. Before the
dinner he talked to the chefs and tasted most of the foods
being served to make sure they "worked" well with his beers.
He didn't have any sort of speech prepared, just talked about each
of the beers being served and had a few funny stories, very casual.
He enjoyed mingling and talking to everyone that attended. He
spoke of the importance of freshness and quality of ingredients.
He stressed the fact that beer is a food and should be treated as
such. Afterwards he sat with 3-4 of us for an hour or so and enjoyed
more of his beer and talked brewing and beer.
Some interesting facts:
- Double Bock has half pound of malt per bottle.
- By chance, it was 10 years ago this week that Jim started the Boston
Brewing Co.
- Jim's father had an interesting diet plan - "There is food in beer, but if
there isn't any beer in the food just drink beer."
- Triple Bock is aged in old Jack Daniel barrels. Its taken three years to
isolate his "ninja" yeast for the brew. It is a 17% alcohol brew, 18%
is the limit for yeast. Bottles are 8 oz. cobalt blue with a X caret
gold label and a sherry style cork. Will not be available in Florida
(only state, DOH!)
Bash him if you like - I enjoy(ed) his beers. Standard Disclaimers apply!
Ron Raike CREOL/UCF - Orlando FL \|/
- -----------------------------------------*--
ron at laser.creol.ucf.edu /|\
Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Jul 94 16:40:00 -0500
From: COTE_FRANK at chicago.tandem.com
Subject: The best Mini-Kegger?? And old Extract?
Hello all,
I know this has been discussed before by I guess I missed
a summary message about it, BUT,
What is the best mini kegger???
I've seen a few of the "big can" types and they look fairly
flimsey. I've heard of the "Party Ball" type but are they
all the same, and is there a down side with them? I'd like
something made to last a long time. I'll print up a summary
and post it unless that's already been done. I'd like to know
about suppliers and everything.
I have a second question about how long canned extract lasts.
I have a 6lb. can that I think is over 10 years old. Is it
worth opening?
Thanks in advance,
Frank Cote
Systems Analyst
Tandem Computers
Chicago, Il.
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 17:21:52 EDT
From: <TJWILLIA%OCC.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject: Multi-strain yeasts
Dominick asked in HBD #1481 about experiences with Wyeast 1338 -European ale
yeast. I've never used it, but I got to thinking about plating multi-strained
yeasts ...
He states that the colonies look _very_different. What if each strain were
very close in morphology? How would you be able to insure that both make it
into a starter? Short of single-cell isolation, has anyone done this using
*home* techniques? Maybe I'm wasting bandwidth? Could be, but inquiring minds
want to know.
Brews to you.
Tom Williams
tjwillia at occ.bitnet
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 1994 15:40:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: malodah at pbgueuze.scrm2700.PacBell.COM (Martin Lodahl)
Subject: Guests at Club Meetings
In HOMEBREW Digest #1481, Bob Talkiewicz<btalk at aol.com> observed:
> My club charges $2/guest/meeting. It adds a few meager bucks to the club
> coffer, but is small enough that nobody complains. Some guests have become
> members, although it seems that most of them are visiting from out of town.
> At least they get to brag about all the great beer theytasted for only $2.
> Guests also get a newsletter for a month or two.
I'll tell you, had someone hit me up for money when I appeared for my
first club meeting, I would never have attended a second one. We do
have some sort of policy like that "on the books," adopted at a time
when we had several people who came to meeting after meeting to suck
up the beer. These parasites didn't brew and had no real plans to
start, and never brought beer of any kind to share, but they always
brought their mugs, you betcha ... So we adopted that policy, and it
did indeed chase away our tapeworms, and then we dropped the enforcement
of it altogether in the interest of putting on our most friendly face
to prospective members. This is a situation, I think, where the gesture,
rather than the actual dollar amount, sends the message.
I've noticed, by the way, that hardly anyone attends two meetings
without joining.
- Martin
= Martin Lodahl Systems Analyst, Capacity Planning, Pacific*Bell =
= malodah at pacbell.com Sacramento, CA USA 916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! (Unk.) =
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 94 17:51:00 PDT
From: "McGaughey, Nial" <nmcgaugh at hq.walldata.com>
Subject: bulk grain purchases (Seattle)/used Elephant Kegs/source for ?55gal?
Hi all.
The first item is probably for people in the Seattle/Bellevue/King county
area. although anyone with some experiences in this area, your info/caveats
would be appreciated.
I am interested in buying a bulk shipment of Belgian DeWolf- Cosyns Pale Ale
Malt, uncrushed, from Certified foods in California. The thing is: they only
accept orders of 500 lbs or more (in 50 lb sacks) It would be a _looonnnng_
time before I could use all that grain, so is anyone else out there
interested in buying into a BIG shipment of uncrushed, premium grain? I dont
know If I can mix and match grain types within the order, but they carry the
full line of DWC specialty grains, including Special B and color malts. Keep
in mind that the only individual size is 50 lb sacks. their price on 500lbs
of Pale Ale Malt is $.53 per pound. This isn't the best deal on basic Pale
Ale Malt, but keep in mind that this is a higher grade of grain. If anyone
knows of a competitor that can match apples to apples, let me know!!
For more info E-mail: nmcgaugh at hq.walldata.com
Does anyone know of a good source for used *elephant* kegs? these are the
***HUGE*** kegs that breweries used to use a few years ago, before the days
of spinal litigation..you probably can guess what I want it for. Mail order
is fine.. *no* i'm not gonna be using 300lbs of the DWC malt order on this
baby.. :*)
On a similar note: anybody know of a good source for ??55?? gallon food
grade buckets?? These would have to be beer/wine/mead/cider friendly, and
airtight(lid) and preferrably nonporous (walls) for grain storage or
fermenters.(getting into the lambic/barleywine/mead kick) cole parmer has
been pathetically slow in getting me a catalog, and all of the restaraunt
supply places give me a funny look... maybe its the 'crown of hops' round my
gourd... :)
yours in excessiveness, and equipment mania... (no i'm not from texas...)
Nial McGaughey
Wall Data Product Development 'say WARSHINGTON state, pal'
' who are you anyways? '
'smells like a brewery in here... '
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 00:42:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dodger Posey <dodger at quack.kfu.com>
Subject: Warthog Ale Recipe?
Just probing the wort for any adventurous soul who
has crafted a close second to Big Rock Brewery's Warthog Ale.
It's my favorite (amongst 10 or 12) and would be thrilled
to attempt a copy if any expert out there could point me
in the right direction.
Related Note: I received lots of inpu from my request for
info to assist me in creating Habanero Beer. I'm close to
bottling, and I'll submit a compilation of responses, but
I'll say this now...The overwhelming majority indicated
Habanero Beer is most dangerous if not done in tiny additions,
and some submitted horror stories. Beware the Mighty Habanero!
thanks,
dodger posey
dodger at quack.kfu.com
t
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 09:50:44 +0000
From: Brian Gowland <B.Gowland at rhbnc.ac.uk> (Tel +44 784 443167)
Subject: Gott coolers.
- -----Multi-Part-Message-Level-1-1-29968
Having seen various references to "Gott coolers", I came to
the realisation that these are the big insulated boxes that you
take on picnics to keep stuff cool (homebrew being one example).
I haven't heard the name "Gott" in the UK so wasn't sure at first.
Since then, I've spent a couple of weeks, on and off, checking
out every picnic cooler I could find in any shops I happened to
be in. The 10 gallon capacity has often been mentioned as the
best size - could I find a 10 gallon cooler? Not a chance.
"Perservere Brian, I told myself". Then today, reading HBD 1482
about Gott coolers, it dawned on me....
For those who haven't guessed it by now - you're obviously
all talking about 10 US gallon capacity - I've been looking at
these things in EVERY SHOP I've been in but because I was
thinking 10 Imp. gallons I ignored them. Picnic coolers here are
marked in Litres - the 35 Litre capacity ones that I've seen
everywhere are 9 1/4 US gallons which is probably as near as I'm
going to get. I've been looking for 45 Litre coolers! Oh well.
One small example of confusion "across the water".
Cheers,
Brian
- -----Multi-Part-Message-Level-1-1-29968
|
|
| Brian Gowland Computer Centre
| Microcomputer Support Analyst Royal Holloway
| University of London
| B.Gowland at rhbnc.ac.uk Egham
| Tel: (0784) 443167 Surrey
| Fax: (0784) 434348 TW20 0EX
|
|
- -----Multi-Part-Message-Level-1-1-29968--
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 94 8:55:49 EDT
From: abaucom at fester.swales.com
Subject: o-rings
Does anyone have a good source for the large o-rings off the 5-gallon
soda syrup containers? Funny, they almost look like vacuum cleaner belts!
The local brew shop wants $4.50 a piece...that seems kind of pricey for
a rubber o-ring. Yes, yes I am cheap :-| but I need a bunch...
Thanks for your thoughts,
-Andrew
- ------
Andrew W. Baucom, abaucom at fester.swales.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 08:52:09 -0400
From: keithfrank at dow.com (R. Keith Frank)
Subject: Re: San Diego Brewpubs
... Funny you should ask. I just returned from San Diego last week. I visited
three Brew Pubs while I was there, two down town and one in La Jolla. The
Columbia Brewery was my least favorite. The beer was so-so and the service was
terrible. Brewski's (may change name to Riptide Brewery) was good (beer, food,
and service). The La Jolla Brewery was small, but did have good beer.
Have fun in San Diego.
Keith Frank
keithfrank at dow.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 09:04:48 -0400 (ADT)
From: David Rodger <drodger at access.digex.net>
Subject: Cloudy Hoses Results
Thanks to all who replied to me about cloudy hoses. The overwhelming
response was, "No Problem." Several people asked me what could there
possibly be to worry about it, so I checked my books (Miller and
Papazian), and didn't find what I thought I'd read. They mention that
the hoses shouldn't have stains, as a probable sign of infection, but
nothing about plain old cloudiness.
In fact, I even got one response telling me how to "dry out" the hoses if
I so desired; put in a paper bag in an oven (200deg F) for a few
minutes. I haven't tried it, but I will.
Thanks again for the replies!
- Dave
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
David Rodger
drodger at access.digex.net
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 08:34:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Sandy Cockerham <COCKERHAM_SANDRA_L at Lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Gott mashing
I have found that pre-heating my Gott with 150+ degree (F) water
really helps keep the mash temp. from dropping so much. I too, have
found that it drops only 1-2 degrees.
Good luck and good beer!
Sandy C.
From: COCKERHAM SANDRA L (MCVAX0::RX31852)
To: VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE (IN::"homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com")
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 09:48:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Bruce Wiggins <FAC_BWIGGINS at VAX1.ACS.JMU.EDU>
Subject: hydrometers
In response to a recent post about paper in hydrometers, I checked two
scientific product catalogs. There were many kinds, but all of the ones that
were pictured had paper inside of glass or plastic--even the ones used for ASTM
testing. So they must be OK.
Bruce Wiggins
fac_bwiggins at vax1.acs.jmu.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Jul 94 07:46:00 -0700
From: COTE_FRANK at Tandem.COM
Subject: The best Mini-Kegger?? Old Extract?
Hello all,
I know this has been discussed before but I guess I missed
a summary message about it, SOOO,
What is the best mini kegger???
I've seen a few of the "big can" types and they look fairly
flimsey. I've heard of the "Party Ball" type but are they
all the same, and is there a down side with them? I'd like
something made to last a long time. I'll print up a summary
and post it unless that's already been done. I'd like to know
about suppliers and everything.
I have a second question about how long canned extract lasts.
I have a 6lb. can that I think is over 10 years old. Is it
worth opening? The brand is Bierhaus Danish Light I think.
Thanks in advance,
Frank Cote
System Analyst
Tandem Computers
Chicago, Il.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 10:16:26 -0600
From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans)
Subject: Gossip/Whining/Bandwidth/Purpose?
Is it just me or do I sense an awful lot of bandwidth being used for Gossip
and whining about the heads of established breweries and other individuals?
Do we just assume that it is very "American" to poke our noses into
other's business? What do the non-American HBD readers (you Canadian
readers know what I mean by "American" here) think of all this bashing?
What is the purpose of the HBD? Is it here to help others with the brewing
process? Keep any responses brief or better yet, just ask a brew question
instead.
Perhaps there is some usenet area like "Rec.Hbd.people.bashing"
where interested individuals can vent their opinions/jealousies towards
others.
Mark Evans
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 10:14:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew Patrick <andnator at mcs.com>
Subject: Bacteria
In HBD1481 Algis Writes :
>You must be careful about sanitation, however, since lactose is
>fermentable by lactic acid bacteria.
And in HBD1482 He also writes :
>I suspect either overdoing Cascade or Centennial hops or a citrobacter
>infection are your problems.
Al,
Where DO you get your bacterial information. Please cite some references.
I find it interesting that the lactose fermentation with production of
of CO2/or other gas of beer spoiling Lactobacillus was never mentioned
in the Microbiology course at Siebel, and also that Citrobacter was never
mentioned at all.
Can anyone else confirm Al's suspicion based on the literal translation
of the Genius name.
Not trying to flame you Al, just want to make sure the facts are straight.
=> Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514 HBU-BBS (708) 705-7263
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 1994 09:25:05 -0600
From: John Harres <Harres at UWyo.Edu>
Subject: new question
Still working on my first batch, I sanitized the secondary (ok, I sanitized
everything), added 1oz Fuggles and 1oz Golding hops pellets to it, then racked
the beer into it. It's one week later, and not bubbling at all, but I do see
bits of hops rising and falling in the beer. The haze is gradually clearing,
but I see no signs of the hops getting out of the way so I can bottle. Should
I just keep waiting and expect the hops to all settle (most seem to be floating
on top of the beer since the start) to the bottom?
John
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
John Harres | "The light works," he said, indicating the window, "the
| gravity works," he said, dropping a pencil on the floor.
harres at uwyo.edu | "Anything else we have to take our chances with."
| -- Dirk Gently (by Douglas Adams)
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 94 9:22:54 MDT
From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com
Subject: Bud Yeast
Don Put writes about the yeast which is "used in St. Louis":
>One other thing: the beer took a LONG time to clear, and I never have had
>haze problems in my beer. I'm wondering if this an extremely poor
>flocculator; my experience seems to indicate this. I resorted to fining it
>to clear it up, and I've never done that to a batch before as I prefer the
>clarity that comes from patience and natural aging.
Don, ever wonder why they use "beechwood aging"? Hint, it has little to do
with taste, and a lot to do with flocculation.
Cheers,
Norm npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com
Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1483, 07/23/94