HOMEBREW Digest #1183 Fri 16 July 1993

Digest #1182 Digest #1184

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  RE: Extract darkening with boil (lyons)
  Dextrose (fjdobner)
  brew places/Toronto (ghultin)
  Parking in Seattle; Hunter Airstat in Milwaukee; DA FLOOD! ("Roger Deschner  ")
  Irish Moss - Extract vs All Grain (lyons)
  1/2 bbl SS keg as brewpot (again) (Mike Peckar  14-Jul-1993 1700)
  Don't touch the hops! (WESTEMEIER)
  pin-lock fittings (John Fitzgerald)
  Irish Moss (Alex Simons)
  Hop Storage, Part One (Mark Garetz)
  Hop Storage, Part Two (Mark Garetz)
  New Orleans area trip report (Jim Sims)
  Purchasing Supplies (Kristof_Mueller)
  "Seriously Stupid Advice" ("John DeCarlo")
  sugar (LLAPV)
  Irish Moss/polyclar (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Hot Break Terminology (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Mint Beer (Wolfe)
  Anchor Dry Hops ("Rad Equipment")
  Jever....? (Chris Pencis)
  Trip to Belgium (Dave Justice)
  BruHeat Insulation (Craig Vandeventer)
  stuff (Steve Casselman)
  Weihenstephan #66 ("Dennis Lewis" )
  More sugar (LLAPV)
  Re : Irish Moss (Conn Copas)
  Re: Parking in Portland (Richard Stueven)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 12:44:58 EDT From: lyons%adc2 at swlvx2.msd.ray.com Subject: RE: Extract darkening with boil Subject: Extract darkening with boil >In HBD #1179, Johann Klaassen writes: >>Could it be that my hour-long boils have darkened >>the otherwise light malt (which would shock me)? >Funny you should mention this, because this very weekend I was at my local >brew store talking to the guy there about brewing with extract. I usually >brew all-grain, but due to time constraints I'm doing an extract batch >next, and so I was getting some advice on it. He said that boiling does >indeed darken malt - he thinks it's actually an oxidation process and that >splashing the wort around a lot when hot darkens it even more. His >solution: do a mini-mash of your specialty grains first (crystal, >chocolate, etc.), strain the grain out, then boil the hops in that water, >and only add the extract for the last twenty minutes of the boil, thus >minimizing the time the extract is boiling, but still giving you the full >time for the hop boil. >How does this technique sound to the more experienced extract brewers out >there? I believe doing a full boil with only a small fraction of the malt would drastically increase the hop utilization. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 12:29 CDT From: fjdobner at ihlpb.att.com Subject: Dextrose My comments of yesterday regarding fermentability of Duvel confused dextrose and dextrin. Dextrose is completely fermentable and dextrin is not. Thanks for the many e-mail messages. Frank Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 9:35:42 PDT From: ghultin at sfu.ca Subject: brew places/Toronto Answering the question about brew-it-here places. I am writing from British Columbia. In Canada (generally) a business is allowed to RENT you equipment for you to brew your beer on their premises. You select recipe, get ingredients from bulk barrels, mix everything together, stand around and wait. They help you connect hoses to cool beer and pump into a keg. Later, you come back and bottle it. (They store it, in primary and secondary in room-sized coolers, and force carbonate with C02) Re: Toronto A bar serving lots of local brews is C'est What? on Front Street. Also Rotterdams and Amsterdam (2 different places) brew their own. There are several microbreweries around. If your pal goes to C'est What, your pal will discover easily from the bar staff their locations. geoff. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 14:42:10 CDT From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Parking in Seattle; Hunter Airstat in Milwaukee; DA FLOOD! Three Amtrak trains run daily from Seattle to Portland. Schedule: Seattle ---> Portland Portland ---> Seattle 7:30AM 11:30AM #26 7:55AM 11:50AM #796 9:50AM 2:00PM #11 2:10PM 6:10PM #25 5:30PM 9:25PM #797 3:50PM 8:05PM #14 I just personally saw the Hunter Air Stat in the Builders Square on I-94 on the south side of Milwaukee. It's in the electrical department, about an aisle beyond all the light fixtures and ceiling fans. They had plenty of them, in a display with a bunch of other Hunter stuff, like ceiling fan mounting brackets, speed controls and such. And those of you who know I live in Chicago may ask what was I doing in Milwaukee? Well, I was in Milwaukee to watch Sprecher Brewing Company (a thriving micro) slide into the river. This same catastrophic monsoon season which has made Middle America into the Mississippi Ocean, got the ground so soaked during the last week of June at the Sprecher Brewery that it gave way and slid into the canal. The building has stayed put, so far, but has developed an ominous crack through which you can see the river outside. Access to the front door is by a hurriedly constructed wooden gangplank. Brewing has continued nervously, but uninterrupted. I understand Randy Sprecher has accelerated his search for new quarters for his brewery. The building, fortunately, is rented. Anyone know of any other washed out or flooded breweries? What about Dubuque Star, which is on low land by the riverbank? See everyone in Portland! - -- Roger Deschner, UIC, CBS, BJCP, ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 15:58:12 EDT From: lyons%adc3 at swlvx2.msd.ray.com Subject: Irish Moss - Extract vs All Grain I've noticed in Charlie's book that he lists Irish Moss as an ingredient for All Grain recipes, but not for Extract recipes. Am I correct to conclude that only All Grain recipes will benifit by using Irish Moss during the last 15 minutes of the boil? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 14:00:11 PDT From: Mike Peckar 14-Jul-1993 1700 <m_peckar at cscma.enet.dec.com> Subject: 1/2 bbl SS keg as brewpot (again) Hi again. Last week I requested a copy of a bygone HBD article posted on converting 1/2 bbl kegs. I never got a response. What I did get, however, is lots of email expressing interest, so I felt compelled to ask again for the article in question. This time my request is for a repost, though, since there seems to be lots of interest... Anyway, in the mean time, I kind of came up with my own idea on what to do with the rounded stainless steel keg I came across, and since folks asked via mail, I figured I'd reply here. Basically, what I plan on doing is cutting the top off, installing a drain faucet, and sealing off the bunghole. No rocket science there. I am curious what others have done, though, and how different folk use SS kegs to mash/lauter. What I was considering was simply attaching a screen to the inside of the drain faucet kind of like a test tube with the open end sealed around the inlet to the faucet. My friend who uses this method using a cooler with great results calls this his "screen penis". I believe he said he got the idea from an article in a trade magazine, I think it was The Yankee Brew News. Anyhow, look like a fun project, and I'll keep you informed as this project progresses. For now, I've already started hacking away at the top... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 20:43:05 -0400 (EDT) From: WESTEMEIER at delphi.com Subject: Don't touch the hops! A note of warning to all novice backyard hop growers: It's still quite early in the season, but there may be some parts of the country where people are getting ready to start harvesting hops. If you've done this before, you can skip to the next message. If not, please take a word of advice. Poking around amongst hop bines is an activity that usually required both a pair of light cotton work gloves and (important!) a long-sleeved shirt. A great many of us are very sensitive to these delightful plants. I don't know if it's the physical action of the tiny spines on the bines, or the hop oil itself, or some combination, but if you're like me, your arms and hands will be covered with nasty red welts and itch like crazy if you don't take these simple precautions. I was reminded of it today, since my Cascades were so heavy that the twine they were growing up broke last night and I had to replace it with a much heavier variety. I have various varieties planted around the deck in back of my house, and they grow up poles to about 8-10 feet, then up heavy twine to the eaves of the house. Crossing over the deck, they add some shade, and (lucky me!) my wife really likes they way they look. Again, PLEASE don't try harvesting these beauties with bare arms. Unless you're in the small minority that is not sensitive, you'll itch for at least a couple of days. Ed Westemeier Cincinnati, Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Jul 93 16:12:00 PST From: John Fitzgerald <johnf at ccgate.ScrippsRanchCA.NCR.COM> Subject: pin-lock fittings A couple of digests ago there was some mention of a need for a special tool for removing pin-lock fittings on soda kegs. Another poster mentioned the use of vice-grips (sorry for the lack of names of the posters). I just wanted to mention that I use a 13/16" open ended wrench, it slips on the fitting just fine (the shape of the fitting allows the wrench to fit from one direction without destroying the pins). Happy Brewing, John Fitzgerald (just mailed off my last 2 Bouncing Baby Dopple-bocks for 2nd round judging...does anybody know if we will receive additional feedback from the judges from this next tasting?) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 22:14:02 -0700 From: Alex Simons <alexsi at microsoft.com> Subject: Irish Moss In HBD #1180, Jeff Frane made some observations about the use of Irish Moss. I am in absolute accord with jeff, and have found that adding 1 tablespoon of Irish Moss per 5 gallons makes all the difference. I would also recommend using the flaked rather than powdered as I have had better luck with it. Using several different Wyeast strains as well as Nottingham Ale yeast, I have found that the Moss aids flocculation immensely. I have also found it helps to settle the "floaties" I often encounter when using specialty malts. I was initially worried that I might have settled out so much yeast as to make carbonation difficult, but have found that in general, bottled with a the standard amount of Corn Sugar, these ales take only a few days (5-7) longer to reach a satisfactory level. And bottling was never so easy.... I might also add that in the same area, I have had a great deal of success using Polyclar added during the last 48 hours into the secondary fermenter. In one batch of a light raspberry wheaten-ale, which I had split into two carboys, the carboy with the Polyclar came out substantially cleaner in both appearance and taste than one without. I am now a fervent fan of both... Alex Simons ********************************************** Alexsi at microsoft.com No fancy insignia, lots of time to other things..... ********************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 23:20:53 PDT From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> Subject: Hop Storage, Part One Here is the post I promised a while ago on hop storage. Introduction Hops have three main ingredients that brewers care about: The alpha acids, the beta acids and the essential oils. Normally we concern ourselves with only two of the three: alpha acids and the oils. The alpha acids are bitter, but they don't dissolve well in beer so they need to be changed into a form that does dissolve well. In brewing, this is caused by boiling and the process is known as isomerization. The resulting isomerized alpha acids are soluble in beer and are still bitter. The beta acids are not bitter and they are not isomerized by boiling (nor are they changed into a bitter form). They are, however, bitter when oxidized. The oils are responsible for the aroma of the hops, and enter into the beer's flavor profile for short boil times, steeping, used in a hop back or dry hopped. All of these three components undergo changes as the hops age. Hop Harvesting and Processing All hops are harvested once per year, beginning as early as late August and continuing through October, depending on the hop variety. The hops are dried and in the US, baled in 200 lb bales. The bales are made by compressing the hops and then wrapping them in burlap. Some of the hops will be ground and pressed into pellets. Some hops in the UK are compressed into "plugs" that weigh about 1/2 an ounce. The level of compression in these plugs is much higher than the level in the bale. In Germany, some hops are compressed into 11 lb "bricks" and then vacuum sealed. The level of compression is about 3-4 times that of the US bale. (And BTW, in the UK the plugs are known as pellets) The hops are then stored in huge warehouses at around 30 degrees F (this temperature differs depending on the broker, and the outside temperature). They stay there until they are shipped to a brewer or hop supplier. Most small brewers buy enough hops at the start of the hop season to last all year, but they are stored at the hop broker and shipped periodically to the brewer. This keeps the brewer from needing a huge cold storage facility. Also since most small brewers don't have hop analysis equipment, this allows the hop broker to keep tabs on the alpha acid and oil contents as they change over time. Only the megabrewers pay to have their hops shipped refrigerated. Hop Deterioration Hops start to lose their alpha acids and oils as soon as they are harvested. The rate is dependent on the storage temperature, amount of air present and the hop variety. Basically, the lower the temperature, the less the hops deteriorate. Oxygen also causes the alpha acids to oxidize and one of the oxidation components is responsible for the "cheesy" aroma of old hops. The oxidized alpha acids cannot be isomerized and are no longer bitter. So O2 is definitely bad for alpha acids. If you remember, the beta acids turn bitter when they are oxidized, so some believe that this makes up for the loss of alpha acids. In fact, it has been argued that cold storage and anerobic conditions are not necessary for bittering hops, as long as the boil is long enough and open enough to allow the cheesy aroma to escape. But brewers aren't buying the argument (who can blame them). The variety of the hop also plays a major role. For reasons yet unknown certain hops store better than others under the same storage conditions. The American Society of Brewing Chemists has a procedure for measuring the "storageability" of hops called the Hop Storage Index and involves taking readings of hops stored at 20C (68F) when "fresh" and six months later. Unfortunately, this only gives us two points on a curve and compares the storage properties of one variety vs. the other, but won't help us predict what happens to the same variety for differing storage times. The oils also deteriorate and oxidize over time. It is believed that some oxidation of the oils is beneficial to the hop aroma. Since most homebrewers have no idea what the oil content of their hops are (a fact I'd like to see changed), they're not aware of the oil losses. But they should be since knowing the oil content is just as important for aroma additions as knowing the alpha acids is for bittering additions. And consistency of results aside, a lot of brewers end up using more hops by weight for finishing and dry hopping than for bittering. So it makes economic sense to know the oil content. (OK, I'll get off my soapbox.) Hop Storage So for best storage conditions, the hops should be stored as cold as possible (30 to -5F) and away from air. The compression of the hops into bales, pellets and plugs helps keep all but the surface layers away from air. Even so, air still penetrates and causes some oxidation. The cold temperature slows the oxidation process. As was mentioned earlier, some hop varieties don't store as well as others. At some point in the season, hop brokers will take all remaining unsold bales of poor storage hops and turn them into pellets. Not only does the pellet keep out a lot of oxygen, but since they take up so little space they can now be vacuum packed to further slow the deterioration. BTW, the reason pellets are so prevalent in the homebrewing trade is that they deteriorate more slowly than whole hops when stored in less than ideal conditions. Now the compression of the whole hops slows the oxidation because it's harder for the O2 to get at the hops. But when the bale is broken up to be portioned into homebrewer sized quantities, the compression is lost. Now air can get at the hops much more easily. The plugs are a good compromise between pellets and whole hops. Hop Packaging for Sale to the Homebrewer Vacuum packing or inert gas packaging in an O2 barrier material is the best. The common type of O2 barrier packaging is the "boiling bag" which is clear and made from a lamination of two types of plastic: The inner layer is a food grade polyethylene (the same stuff zip lock bags are made from). It is *not* a barrier material, but does make a good heat seal and is the main reason it's there. The outer layer is made from polyester (aka mylar) and is what provides the barrier. The next step up is the aluminized mylar bag (aka foil bag or pouch) and this adds a layer of aluminum that increases the barrier protection over 10-fold. It also more than doubles the cost so it's not widely used even though it's better. Some suppliers still insist on selling their hops in polyethylene bags. These provide almost no barrier protection and you should avoid a supplier that uses them as they obviously don't care about the quality of the hops. To tell the bags apart, I assume you know what a zip lock or sandwich bag feels like. These are polyethylene. You can smell the hops right through the bag (this should tell you something). The clear barrier bags are noticeably stiffer and thicker. They are also "shiny" and not "frosted" like the polyethylene bags. The foil bags look either silver or gold. To be continued... Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 23:21:41 PDT From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> Subject: Hop Storage, Part Two Hop Storage, continued What To Do When You Get Them Home Firstly, if the hops are not packaged properly (and you had no choice but to buy them) you need to get them in suitable barrier packaging as soon as possible. If you're going to brew with them in the next week or so, don't worry about it, just put them in the freezer for now. If the hops were packaged properly, don't open them until you need to. Store them in the freezer. Once you've opened them, the biggest problem is what to do with the remainder. If they came in a vacuum sealed bag, the best thing to do is reseal the bag with a "home quality" vacuum sealer. These cost anywhere from $20 on sale to $100 depending on the seal width (and length) and the amount of heat they put out. Even the cheapest sealer (the Decosonic from Best Products) will put out enough heat to seal the standard clear barrier bags. They will not unfortunately put out enough heat to seal the aluminized bags. Look around in kitchen supply departments and hardware stores and the best bet is to take an old piece of bag with you and see how it seals. You can always transfer the hops to the bags that come with the sealer, but beware that the bags with the cheap Decosonic are not true barrier bags, but they're better than polyethylene. If you keg or otherwise have CO2 or nitrogen available, you can flush some mason jars with the gas, put in the hops and add a layer of gas and reseal the jar. I advise you to practice with the gas as it's very easy to blast your hops all over the room. And always always always use a regulator! If you can't do any of this, put the hops in a mason jar and put them in the freezer, it's better than nothing. How Long Will They Last? Well, like most things in brewing, the answer is "It depends." If you keep them cold and free from O2 hops should "last" a few years. It's not uncommon for hop brokers to be selling hops from 2 or 3 seasons ago that have been pelletized and vacuum sealed. This is not to say that the oils and alpha acids will be exactly the same as when you purchased them, but the hops won't be "bad". There is no practical way I know of to estimate the loss in oils or alphas. We could assume from the hop storage numbers listed below that the relationship is linear and could be therefore calculated, but I'm not sure that's right. As I stated earlier, we have only two points on a curve to go by. But as a practical matter, you can expect reasonably stable numbers for about 6 months if you store the hops in the freezer (a non-auto defrost freezer is best) at -5F and under gas or vacuum packed and in barrier packaging. Of course you'll get better results from the better storing hops. Hop Varieties and Their Storage Numbers The following table is compiled from several sources, mainly from data provided by hop brokers and the book "Hops" by R.A. Neve (Neve's data is by his own admission "suspect" since it was itself compiled from lots of sources and lots of different storage conditions. I have used his data only to fill in gaps in the hop broker's data which was compiled in a more scientific manner (generally following the ASBC method). Neve lists only "words" like "fair" whereas the broker's data is listed as a percentage alpha acid remaining after 6 months at 20C (68F). This is how you can tell the two sources of data from each other). Variety % Alpha Remaining after 6 mo. at 20C or Storage Quality Cascade 50% Fuggle 63% Domestic Hallertau 55% Domestic Hersbrucker 50% Liberty 40% Mt. Hood 55% Perle 85% Domestic Spalt 50% Domestic Tettnanger 58% Willamette 63% Centennial 63% Chinook 68% Cluster 83% Eroica 60% Galena 78% Domestic Northern Brewer 80% Nugget 75% Czech Saaz 50% Tettnang Tettnanger 58% German Spalt 55% Hallertau Hersbrucker 60% Strisselspalt 65% Hallertau Northern Brewer 75% Hallertauer Mittelfruh good Huller Bitterer moderate East Kent Goldings good Brewers Gold (UK) poor Wye Northdown good Wye Challenger good Wye Target poor Styrian Goldings good (this hop is actually a Fuggle) Pride of Ringwood poor Hope this shed some light on the issue, which reminds me, light can also cause the hops to deteriorate. This is not really an issue at home (but it does finally give us a real justification to determine if the light really goes out in the fridge!) but it in an issue in you local homebrew supply. The hops should not be sitting in a well lighted place if the packaging is clear. Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 09:54:00 EDT From: sims at pdesds1.scra.org (Jim Sims) Subject: New Orleans area trip report I just got back from spending a few daze over in and around the Crescent City, checking our the local brewing vista. Note: I'm not an 'official' beer judge. My taste buds aren't real sophisticated. Your mileage (highly) likely to vary... In New Orleans, there's Dixie Brewery, the South's oldest (190?). Dixie is located on Tulane Ave, a bit away from downtown and the quarter. They're renovating right now, so no touring of the facility was possible They make a mediocre lager which was all that was available when i used to live there. But hey, when I lived there coke(tm) was .50 a can, Dixie was .35 a can, you figure out which one a student buys - But honest, mom; i'm saving money by drinking beer ;-) In the last coupla years they've added two new brews: Jazz - a nice tasting Amber, good color, really nice Hop nose, not a hoppy taste, though. (I dont much go for strong hop taste, but found I really liked this strong nose and almost no hop taste combination). Of the three brews, this was my favorite - stacks up favorably to _any_ beer, as far as a good, drinkable beer. Blackened Voodoo Lager - only had one of these, not bad, but i wouldn't go outta my way to get one and would take an amber is offered the choice. I *like* dark beers, so it's not that i would just choose any amber over any dark, either. They claim it's aged in cyprus casks. try it, but dont expect too much. Also in New Orleans, down on Decatur street, across the street from the old Jax Brewery (RIP) and about 2 blocks toward Canal street is the Crescent City BrewPub. Note that their beer cant be sold off the premises. Get it there or do without. My recommendation - GO GET SOME. They serve beer in small mugs (like most pubs/bars), medium (1/2 litre?) pilsner style glasses, and LITER mugs. We tried to get a tour of the brewing equipemnt there, but the Brewmaster was in Germany and the other person we were refered to declined. They brew 4 beers: Pilsner - tasted like one to me. I tried a sip of someone else's. Not my favorite style of beer so I didn't waste the drinking time on it. Red Stallion - a light amber sorta thing, kinda seemed like a cross between a pilsner and an amber to me. Pretty tasty. Good beer. Dark Forest - Here's a great beer. Dark, good choclate malt taste (at least i think that's what it is, see my (dis-)qualifications above). I really liked this beer, and consumed several liters just to be sure. seasonal speciality brew Liberty lager is the current specialty brew - it's kind of a most amber-like version of the Red Stallion brew. If it weren't for the awesome Dark Forest, i'd been drinking this one. Try it (if you get there soon) Special mention goes the the Pizza place (cant remember the name) over on the other side of the quarter at the corner of Decatur and Barracks. They do _great_ wood-baked pizza and are the only place I have *ever* seen Chimay trippel (25 oz bottle for $9, compare to reg bottled beers at $2.50) on the menu on a regular food establishment. We stopped by Brew Ha-Ha on magazine street (uptown) and chatted with the owners for a while. He's a transplant from New York who couldn't believe that there is a brew club, brew pub, brewery, and no homebrew supply store rent for an apartment and storefront was only $450 (in NY the same storefront alone would be "about $5000") So, he took out a $4000 loan and opened a store. He's "quitting my day job" after just under a year in business and seemed to be real happy and doing well. Nice folks. his girlfriend was brewing out back while we were there. Offered some good advice/tips also. Check them out if you're in the area. And across the lake in Abita Springs is Abita Brewery. (take the Abita Springs exit from I-12, go north - you go right past the brewery just before _the_ red light in town) Started by a coupla homebrewers back in the mid-80s, now distributed/sold across the south from Texas to North Carolina, "selling more than we brew". We got an extensive tour of the facility (they're expanding the fermenting stuff to a building down the road). Real nice folks. Currently three brewers and a total (i think) of 14 employees. They grind 1800 lbs of grain into the masher, hold it at ~150 for ~ an hour, sparge to another tank and 'boil'? for about another hour, then whirlpool it to remove the hops, etc in a third tank for another hour or so, and filter it into the fermentation tanks. They have an ancient bottling machine, just got a new keg washing/filling setup (used to do them by hand). Pretty interesting setup. They're currently brewing 4 beers also: Abita Amber - nice amber beer. good stuff Abita Golden - only tried a small bit of this, seemed OK, but nothing real notable Turbo Dog - an interesting dark beer. kinda (excessively) roasted malty tasting to me, you might like it if you like dark beers, hard to say. About the name - "yeah, the owners were sitting around drinking one day after brewing the first batch and came up with that" the current specialty beer is Abita Wheat - this was a real nice wheat beer. I liked it a lot (and sampled it repeatedly afterwards just to make sure ;-) Give it a try if you get a chance. Thats it for now. Enjoy! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 10:13:30 EST From: Kristof_Mueller at voyager.umeres.maine.edu Subject: Purchasing Supplies I was just wondering, I am 20 years old, and plan on brewing as soon as I get my apartment (in Sept.). I know that legally I cannot brew beer until I'm 21, but can I buy supplies as a "minor"? It seems to me that anyone should be able to buy a bucket and some grains. Does anyone know the laws that apply here? Thanks for your help. - --Kris Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 08:59:06 EST From: "John DeCarlo" <jad at pegasus.mitre.org> Subject: "Seriously Stupid Advice" OK, several people have misread my previous posting, so let me try again: 1) Thank you Al, for posting and then *refuting* seriously stupid advice from some retailer. It is definitely the case that some who sell homebrewing supplies know something about brewing while others know absolutely nothing and spread bad advice. 2) Starting a siphon with your mouth is probably a bad thing. However, while it is certainly *possible* to get an infection in your beer this way, I personally would put this as not in the top 20 most likely ways of infecting your beer. So, I just wanted to say that Al was going a little overboard in implying that this would certainly result in an infection. John "I thought everyone was reading this in the context of Al's nice little series. Oh well, sorry for the possible misinterpretation." DeCarlo Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Thursday, 15 July 93 09:17:35 CST From: LLAPV at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu Subject: sugar Howdy, I've seen discussion brewing (haha) on the topic of sugars. One thing I've noticed is that folks have been saying brown sugar is white sugar with molasses added. Actually, it's more the opposite; it's sugar without the molasses-type syrup removed. When sugar cane is processed (they don't make brown sugar out of beets cuz it tastes nasty), it basically is in a syrup form. It goes through a centrifuge, where the unprocessed white sugar is removed. Brown sugar is then extracted from the syrup. The crystals are covered with a film of colored, highly refined molasses flavored syrup. After this, the remaining syrup is what molasses comes from. You get two kinds, light & blackstrap. They take the light off first, then the rest is blackstrap. The whole process works out to light to dark, crystals to syrups, pure sucrose to lotsa leftover goodies. Turbinado is the stuff that comes off first but is not completely refined. It's 99% pure sugar. Light molasses is 90% sugar, & blackstrap is 50% sugar & 2.8% protein, with lotsa trace materials, including ash, vitamins, rat hairs, etc. As with brown sugar, beet molasses is too nasty tasting to use. So, that's the sugar scoop. Alan, Austin Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 10:24:30 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Irish Moss/polyclar Let me relate a story: Last fall a fellow brewer (Josh) & I made 10 gallons of Vienna. We split the wort into two fermenters, pitched the same yeast into both, and each took one home. We fermented at the same temperature for about the same time. At this point, our paths diverged. Josh fined his with PolyClar, bottled, conditioned, and then lagered. I lagered in secondary, then bottled & conditioned. When it came time to taste, we found that 1. Josh's beer was (slightly) clearer, 2. My beer had more of that yummy malt flavor. Draw your own conclusion. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 10:36:13 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Hot Break Terminology What Jeff says meshes nicely with some of the books on historical brewing I've been reading recently (things like _The English Housewife ..._, by Gervase Markham around 1600; _Wines & beers of old New England_, S. Brown, 1978). You find statements like "boil it until it 'breaks'". This seems to imply that the break happens at the end. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 10:50:34 -0400 (EDT) From: CBRAGG at bentley.edu Subject: Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Jul 93 10:14 CST From: Wolfe at act-12-po.act.org Subject: Mint Beer The other day I was eating a bowl of mint chocolate chip ice cream that I happened to be washing down with a homebrew (I know, it's sick.), when I got an idea for that mint plant in our yard that has turned out to be more of a tree than an ornamental plant. (I live in Iowa, and those things must love the rain. It is HUGE! I'm talking, about 20 stalks almost 3 feet tall. And I transplanted it from a single sprig in April.). I'm envisioning a mint beer that has an aftertaste that kind of makes you cock your head to one side and raise an eyebrow (like the ginger beer that I just brewed). Anyway, I've looked all over for a recipe and have yet to find one for mint beer. Has anyone out there experimented with mint? I've used leaves off of this plant in cooking a lemon herb chicken, and it tasted great. I've also used the leaves in tea. I was thinking about brewing about a gallon of mint tea (to see the ratio of mint to water) and using about six times the weight in mint for a five gallon batch of beer (six times, rather than five, because I figured the malt would cover up some of the mint taste). Any suggestions? Ed Wolfe WOLFE at ACT-12-PO.ACT.ORG Iowa City, IA Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Jul 1993 11:41:20 U From: "Rad Equipment" <rad_equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.edu> Subject: Anchor Dry Hops Subject: Anchor Dry Hops Time:10:08 AM Date:7/15/93 Al Says: >more difficult to remove the hop bag than loose hops >from a carboy (not an issue for Anchor, with their open fermenters) Sorry Al, Anchor only uses the open fermenters for primary fermentation. The dry hopping occurs in the secondaries which are closed. The hop bags are pillow case size. And... >It's not NO2 and I don't believe there's any nitrogen at all in the cans. While you are correct that the Draught in the cans is a unique recipe and so tastes considerably different from what we are used to (the bottled version) there "is" liquid nitrogen added to the Draught as it is canned. This is used to increase the pressure in the can to insure that the velocity of the beer going through the pin hole as it exits the plastic pillow is correct upon opening. The nitrogen is really a mechanical device in this respect since it does not dissolve into solution like CO2 does. It should not add any flavor to the beer but might be said to alter the "taste" as it is responsible for the creaminess of the head which will certainly be a factor to one's perceptions. Using the nitrogen/CO2 combined gas (or guinness gas as our local distributor calls it) will not in itself alter a homebrewed stout's taste or head creation. You'll need a tap designed to produce the head coupled with the special gas. RW... Russ Wigglesworth (INTERNET: Rad_Equipment at radmac1.ucsf.edu - CI$: 72300,61) UCSF Dept. of Radiology, San Francisco, CA (415) 476-3668 / 474-8126 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 14:10:57 CDT From: chips at coleslaw.me.utexas.edu (Chris Pencis) Subject: Jever....? Ok, here's a question from my homebrewing partner...does anyone out there know anything about the beer Jever...on the label it says something about using "freisian herbs" (where's fresia?!) ... does anyone know what these things are - has anyone tried to replicate this brew ... in general, can anyone give us the low down on this beer (its not in Jackson, Finch or anywhere in Papazian) ... thanks. good luck and good beer, Chris ====================================================================== |Chris Pencis chips at coleslaw.me.utexas.edu | |University of Texas at Austin Robotics Research Group | ====================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 09:04:28 CDT From: Dave Justice <DD24005 at UAFSYSB.UARK.EDU> Subject: Trip to Belgium Greetings! I hope this an appropriate question for this forum. I'm off to Europe 2 weeks from today and could use some suggestions on beer and brewing related places to visit in Belgium. I'll be there 2-3 days, arriving in Oostende and eventually making my way to Bonn, Germany. I suppose anywhere in the country is possible since it's fairly small. Any recommendations based on your experiences are welcome. TIA - Dave J. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 09:50:40 -0500 From: cwvandev at hwking.cca.cr.rockwell.com (Craig Vandeventer) Subject: BruHeat Insulation I also had trouble with the BruHeat holding it's heat. I was constantly turning on the element to maintain mash temperatures(a royal pain in the butt). I scorched the element a couple of times even. What I did to fix the problem was I wrapped 2 layers of pipe insulation tape around the entire bucket and then taped it down securely with duct tape. I used an Xacto knife to cut the holes for the spigot and heating element. On my last mash I didn't have to turn on the heating element to maintain mash temp. It also boils alot faster now, too. Craig Vandeventer Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 11:20:05 PDT From: sc at vcc.com (Steve Casselman) Subject: stuff So let's see ... sucrose is used to store the yeast so they don't swell and burst from osmosis. sucrose is a disaccharide of glucose and fructose that has at least two stable configurations, normal and inverted. Yeast cannot metabolize (break down) normal sucrose without first inverting it with invertase. Inverted sucrose then is more digestable by the yeast - which means it takes less engery to metabolize it and therefor there are less side reactions (and by-products no doubt) in the process. I also wanted to share an experiment I did regarding bacteria in the month and on the hands. I took a plate (agar) and put my thumb and finger prints on one half and spit on the other half. By far the worst offender were the thumb prints which grew over night, the finger prints came next and about day 4 something was growing out of the spit side. This makes sense since the mouth does have a changing pH during eating which prohibits bacteria growth (a good defence for an animal that eats just about anything). My conclusion is that contamination comes not when puting lips to hose but touching said hose with the hands and sticking that into the carboy. Also I'm going to be up in portland hangin' with the gang and am planing to bring my guitar and harp for acoustic fun if you want to join in! The number for Brewers Resource is 1-800-8BREWTEK (the K is silent) 1-800-827-3983 For the people who like chewy beer I sugest roll oats roll barley or wheat the chewyness comes more from the proteins than the dextrins. The hot break begins at the begining of the boil, anyone unclear on this should bring an all grain (extracts have small hot breaks) beer just to boiling and then turn the burner down to observe the floculation of proteins. IMHO no hops should be added untill a hot break occurs as hop introduce nucleation sites that would otherwise be started by the larger proteins. This will give a brighter beer. By the way the hot break happends when the larger protiens come in contact with the interphase between steam and wort cooking them just as blood will form a solid when heated. I've seen flocs the size of dollar bills in my 40-gal brew system allways at the begining of the boil. Steve Casselman - -------------------------------- |Massively Reconfigurable Logic| | Out Performs | |Massively Parallel Processors | |Virtual Computer Corporation | - -------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Jul 93 10:42:21 CST From: "Dennis Lewis" <DLEWIS at jscdh6> Subject: Weihenstephan #66 I've seen a couple articles lately about German wheat beer yeasts. Thanks to the person who posted the The Brewer's Resource (BREWTEK) phone number for the wheat beer strains. The guy I talked to was extremely helpful. Is the Weihenstephan #66 weissbier yeast available commercially? (like from Wyeast or GW Kent...) Phone numbers of known suppliers would be greatly appreciated. BTW, we had a wheat beer tasting at my last homebrew club meeting. Every German wheat beer brewed was fermented with the Wyeast 3056 strain (the 50/50 mix). And without fail, every beer tasted like an ale with plastic in it. I have used this yeast and found it to be terribly lacking. If you are planning a wheat beer, do yourself a HUGE favor and seek out a good yeast (ie, not the 3056). I have a dunkles weissbier going now with the 3068, and it tastes terrific! Can hardly wait to bottle this liquid gold. Dennis Lewis Homebrew, The Final Frontier. Return to table of contents
Date: Thursday, 15 July 93 11:03:27 CST From: LLAPV at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu Subject: More sugar Howdy, Here's more info on sugar (I had to look this stuff up). Invert sugar is primarily used by the food industry. It's sucrose that has been broken down into it's two constituent molecules by hydrolyzation. The two molecules are dextrose (glucose) & levulose (fructose). It has moisture retaining properties good for baked goods, icings, & preserves. I can't see why one would want to brew with it, but who knows, you might discover something really cool & groovy. I _think_ that candy sugar is 80% white sugar & 20% corn syrup that's been boiled in water. Again, I think it is, but am not sure. Because of variances in language development & because there is an ocean between us, Belgians might be using something different & calling it candy sugar. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 20:09:40 BST From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re : Irish Moss This Irish Moss thread got me reading a CAMRA brewbook by Wheeler this morning. Normally, I regard him as a touch light-weight, but he claims that it is impossible to achieve a decent cold break with home chilling equipment, and that Irish Moss is a good alternative to forced chilling of the wort in order to precipitate trub. In fact, this auxiliary fining effect is supposed to linger on into the bottling stage, where it can be cancelled by oppositely charged finings such as isinglass. Note that Wheeler doesn't seem to have any experience with counterflow chillers, BTW. Over to Miller. He ventures that IM could be useful for ales which have not received a protein rest. As ale malt is not reputed to contain protein digestion enzymes anyway, I presume the problem that Miller is really referring to is that of using wheat malt and/or flaked cereals without a protein rest. - -- Conn V Copas Loughborough University of Technology tel : +44 (0)509 222689 Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre fax : +44 (0)509 610815 Leicestershire LE11 3TU e-mail - (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut G Britain (Internet):C.V.Copas at lut.ac.uk Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 09:27:16 -0700 From: Richard Stueven <gak at wrs.com> Subject: Re: Parking in Portland /Don sez: >Btw, it`s also worth mentioning that the conference hotel does not provide a >free shuttle bus to/from the airport. There`s a private bus that serves >several of the downtown hotels, however. Yet another cost to add to your >budget for the week. If a bunch of us arrive at the same time, we could share cabs... Just a thought. have fun gak Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1183, 07/16/93